See discussions, stats, and author profiles for this publication at: https://www.researchgate.

net/publication/296348328

Topical dosages forms (Lepa Kalpana) of Ayurveda: An unexplored treasure

Article in International Journal of Green Pharmacy · December 2015

CITATIONS READS
3 17,214

2 authors:

Shilpa Govind Patil Anand Chaudhary

Banaras Hindu University Faculty of Ayurveda ,IMS .Banaras Hindu University
17 PUBLICATIONS 21 CITATIONS 135 PUBLICATIONS 1,194 CITATIONS

SEE PROFILE SEE PROFILE

All content following this page was uploaded by Anand Chaudhary on 01 March 2016.

The user has requested enhancement of the downloaded file.

REVIEW ARTICLE Topical dosages forms (Lepa Kalpana) of
Ayurveda: An unexplored treasure
Shilpa Patil, Anand Kumar Chaudhary
Department of Rasa Shastra, Faculty of Ayurveda, Institute of Medical Sciences, Banaras Hindu University,
Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India

Abstract

Human physic receives the drug in two-ways. One through direct routs, i.e. through apertures of the body and
another one are through the whole surface of the body. Absorption of drugs through body surface deserves special
care for its optimum delivery. Ayurvedic Lepas do exit from the time immemorial from Vedas to Samhitas and
in practice in a concurrent era too. This review article is the sincere attempt to summarize all the facts regarding
Lepa Kalpana of Ayurveda. It includes its exploration in terms of therapeutics, cosmaceutics, and neutraceutics
mentioned in various classical treatises specially mentioned in Schedule I of Drugs and Cosmetics Act, 1940.
We tried to reveal adaptations of advanced technologies and its impact in the manufacturing of Ayurvedic Lepa
licensed as classical and patent and proprietary medicines. In our critical analysis of facts, we had established that
technology initiation in the preparation of Ayurvedic medicines, especially in Lepa Kalpana is like value addition
in its pharmaceutics and therapeutic characteristics. The market of Ayurvedic cosmeceuticals is enhancing day-by-
day. People believe in safety and efficacy of Ayurvedic topical applications. These are protective and promotive to
skin as these are free from artificial chemicals. Still many formulations of Ayurveda are waiting for its reach to the
common public that have been claimed for its clinical connotations for beauty and glowing skin; the first desire of
women of any age. Tremendous business opportunity is hidden in the literature of Ayurveda for which we invite
everyone interested to serve humanity through Ayurveda.

Key words: Cream, cosmeceutics, Lepa, nutraceutics, therapeutics

INTRODUCTION In this review paper, we had tried to gather all information at

one place to get the solution of all these problems to prepare

E
very fine morning, all across India perfect Lepa of Ayurveda at par to present day pharmaceutics.
we witness advertisements claiming
fairness, glow, pimple free skin, and Lepa Kalpa in Ayurvedic Classics
many more clearly violating norms of Drugs
and Magic Remedies Objectionable Act, 1954. Authors have tried to put all relevant information about Lepa
It is more pain full when all these unethical, Kalpa described in classics of Ayurveda at one place for the
immoral, and illegal activities are under the revelation of its main characteristics. We focused on the type
umbrella of Ayurvedic medicines. Fortunately, of ingredients used in Lepa Kalpa, methodology, indications,
1 day we perceived an idea to write an authentic and finally a total number of classics.
review article on several aspects of Ayurvedic
Lepa Kalpana with emphasis on its therapeutic It is surprising that in many classics a specific nomenclature
and cosmeceutic properties. Our aim is to has not been preferred. Instead of the particular name of a
sensitize every stakeholder of Ayurveda and Lepa Kalpa in chapters of Chikitsa Sthana or at any other
member of common public about the goodness
of Ayurvedic Lepa Kalpana and to prevent
Address for correspondence:
them from the exploitation of misbranded,
Shilpa Patil, Senior Resident,
adulterated, and spurious Lepa available in the
Department of Rasa Shastra, Faculty of Ayurveda,
market in the name of Ayurvedic medicines.
IMS, BHU, Varanasi. E-mail: shilpa11151@gmail.com
Common problems with Ayurvedic Lepas are
Received: 24-04-2015
stains after its application, smell, sensitivity, and
Revised: 14-09-2015
sterility. Greasiness, fluidity, frequency of flow
Accepted: 15-01-2015
is another concern for Lepas of Ayurveda origin.

International Journal of Green Pharmacy • Oct-Dec 2015 (Suppl) • 9 (4) | S12

 Patil and Chaudhary: Lepa Kalpana of Ayurveda:An Unexplored Treasure

place, only name of ingredients and indication have been Gudugdha, Putikita, Loma, Khura Shringa of various animals
discussed. These ingredients are varying in number and are used in preparation of Lepa Kalpana.
nature as per specific pharmacological actions where it has
been incorporated for a specific ailment. In Sushruta Samhita in Chikitsa Sthana and Uttartantra total
105 Lepas are found mentioned to treat above mentioned
diseases.
Lepa Kalpa in Charaka Samhita

Acharya Charaka had prescribed Lepa to treat his patients Lepa Kalpa in Ashtang Sangraha
and taught his disciple same through Charaka Samhita. In
chapters of Chikitsa Sthana, several Lepa are indicated to Acharya Vagbhata has elaborated the classification of
treat Kushta, Sidhma, Rajayakshma, Shotha, Arsha, Visarpa, Lepa according to its therapeutic application, e.g. Snaihika,
Madatyay, Vrana, Khalitya, Palitya, Vatarakta, Yonivyapad, Nirvapana, Prasadana, Sthambana, Vilayana, Pachana,
and Stanya Vikara. Peedana, Sodhana, Ropana, Savarneekara.[5] The oleaginous
bases should be used in those Lepas, which are expected
Ingredients mentioned for Lepa Kalpa in Charak Samhita to have Snehana, Nirvapana, Prasadana, Ropana, and
are from all three origins of Materia Medica of Ayurveda, Savarnikarana properties. The other bases such as Kanji,
i.e. herbal, mineral, and animal. Apart of herbals which are Gomutra, and lemon juice, possess very different properties
plenty in number, Saindhav, Sauvarchala, Ksharas, various such as Ushna, Tikshna, and Vishada than the previous one.
metals and minerals such as Naga, Vanga, Loha, Pinda,
Hartal, Manahshila, Kasis, Tuttha, Gairika of mineral origin; Total Lepas mentioned in Chikitsa Sthana of Astang Sangraha
Gorochana, Gomutra, Gudugdha, Ajadugdha, Kukkuta is 87.
Shakruta, Kapota Vishtha, Goshakruta, Gajashthi, Vasa
of camel; and Chuluki Matsya, Godharasa, Loma, Khura
Lepa Kalpa in Ashtang Hridaya
Shringa of various animals are used in preparation of Lepa
Kalpana.
In Astang Hridaya, Lepas are mainly indicated in Jwara,
Rajayakshma, Arsha, Atapaj Trishna, Ekanga Shopha,
Interestingly, Acharya Charaka had not classified Lepa on
Visarpa, Kushtha, Dadru, Shvitra, Sidhma, Vipadika, etc.
any basis but mentioned 32 pradeha for Bahirparimarjana
Acharya Vagbhata followed Acharya Charaka’s principle
(external application) in Sutra Sthana.[1] In Chikitsa Sthana,
of treatment in the context of Lepa. Doshaghna, Vishaghna,
Pralepa and Alepa word mentioned in Viraspa chikitsa and
Varnakara (according to therapeutic and cosmeceutic
83 Lepas are found mentioned apart from 32 Pradeha. Thus,
purpose) are classified systematically.[6]
a total number of Lepa Kalpa in Charak Samhita is 115.
Ingredients of plant origin such as Rala, Guggula, Laksha,
Lepa Kalpa in Sushruta Samhita Kampillaka along with the Visha-Upavisha Varga Dravya like
Vatsanabha, Karavira Gunja, Bhallataka Arka, Snuhi, Langali,
Systematic description of Lepa along with its classification including ingredients of animal origin such as Gomutra,
as Pralepa Pradeha Alepa depending on modalities of Kukkuta Vishtha, Gajasthi, Goat’s urine, Godugdha, Takra.
application is described by Acharya Sushruta.[2] Acharya has Ingredients of marine origin like Mukta, Shankha, Praval;
also mentioned Anulepa as a synonym of Lepa along with minerals such as Hartal, Manashila, Kasis, Tuttha, Gairik,
its therapeutic significance.[3] The main indications to be Gandhak; various salts, such as Saindhava, Sauvarachala,
treated from Lepa are Shashti Vrana Upakrama (60 steps to Yavakshara, and Grihadhum, are found mentioned.
treat wound)[4] Krishnakarma, Pandukarma, Romasnjanan,
Lomapaharan, etc. These Lepas mentioned by him indicates The main contribution of this Samhita is the description
the cosmetic value of Lepa. Sushruta also indicated many of different Mukhalepa according to various seasons. This
Lepas in the treatment of Vatarakta, Arsha, Ashmari, explains the cosmetic value of the Lepa. Some ingredients
Kushtha, Dadru, Shwitra (Lepa Guti) (Varti), Galita Kushtha, of these Lepas, which are indicated in different seasons, are
Vidradhi, Visarpa, Granthi, Arbuda Galaganda, Upadansha, given as under mentioned.[7]
Shleepada, and Kshudraroga. • Hemanta - Kolamajja, Vasamoola, Sabara Lodhara,
Gaurasarshapa
Ingredients mentioned for Lepa Kalpa in Sushruta Samhita are • Sisira - Simhimoola, Krishnatila, Darvitvak, Nistusha Yava
from all three origins, i.e. herbal, mineral, and animal. Apart of • Vasant - Darbhamoola, Chandana, Useera, Sireesha,
herbals which are abundant in number, Saindhav, Sauvarchala, Misi, Tandula
various Ksharas Sarjiksara, Yavakshara, Palashakshara, Masi • Grishma - Kumuda, Utpala, Kalhara, Doorva, Madhuka,
such as Hastidanta masi, Krishnasarpa masi, Minerals such Chandana
as Kasis, Tuttha, Hartala, Manahshila, Gairik, Rasanjana, • Varsha - Kaliyaka, Tila, Useera, Mamsi, Tagara,
Mandura and Ghrita, Taila, Vasa, Majja, Gorochana, Gomutra, Padmakh

International Journal of Green Pharmacy • Oct-Dec 2015 (Suppl) • 9 (4) | S13

 Patil and Chaudhary: Lepa Kalpana of Ayurveda:An Unexplored Treasure

• Sarad - Taleesapatra, Gundra, Pundarika, Yashtimadhu, given to every Lepa like Ayavu Kulambu (Peshisiragraha)
Kasha, Tagar, Aguru. Arbudahar Lepa, Padavidarika Lepa, Karna Paliposhak
Ghrita Lepa, Kunakhahara Lepa, Vrana Lepa, and
Total 50 Lepas found mentioned in this text book in Chikitsa Bhagandarhara Lepa, mentioned in Vati Prakaran.[17]
Sthana.
Sahastrayogam mentioned Lepas in Churna Prakaran such as
Kaccuradi Chrna (with Stree Dugha Lepa applied overhead),
Lepa Kalpa in Sharangadhara Samhita
Rasnadi Churna (with Erand taila for Bhrama, Murccha,
Shirovikar),[18] Guggulyadi Taila for Kushtha, Eladi Taila
Acharya Sharagdhara had classified the Lepa into
for Kandu, Pitika, Kotha is advised. Dineshvallyadi Taila
three categories as Doshaghna, Vishaghna, and Varnya
is recommended for reducing blemishes of skin and making
Lepa.[8] Sharangharacharya had mentioned some
skin glowing, Dhudhuradi Taila for hair fall is given in this
interesting Lepas such as Kitaghna Lepa, Suryavartahar,
text.[19] Similarly, Pralepa of Paparnadi Ghrita for Vriddhi
Ardhavabhedakahara, Kurandhara, Yoni Sankochaka,
is given.[20] Palash Kshar Lepa for Kushtha mentioned in
Yonidravaka, Lingavriddhikara, Stanavriddhikara, and
Bhasmaksharadi yoga.[21]
Vashikarana Lepas. The nomenclature of Lepas depends
on either the prime ingredient in Lepa (Langalyadi Lepa),[9]
total content in the Lepa (Dashang Lepa)[10] or disease Lepa Kalpa in Ayurvedic Formulary of India (AFI)
(Shvitrahar Lepa)[11] it cures. Sharangdhara also mentioned
various ingredients of plants, mineral, marine, and animal In AFI, the committee recommended Lepa from various
origin such as Dhattura, Postadana, Shankha, Hingula, texts such as Ashtang Samgraha, Ashtang Hridaya, Ashtang
Swarnamakshika, and Parada. Samgraha, Bhaishajya Ratnavali, Sharangdhara, and
Sahastrayogam.[22]
In Sharangadhara Samhita, total 91 Lepas in the separate
chapter are mentioned. In this document, total 12 Lepas for the treatment of different
disorders are mentioned.
Lepa Kalpa in Bhavprakash
Lepa Kalpa in Contemporary Therapeutics
In Bhavprakash, Lepas are mainly indicated in diseases such
as Jwara, Arsha, and Shotha. Disease wise description of Technology development is a key area of progress. Taking
Lepas is there but no specific nomenclature of Lepa found. indication from the classics, cream/ointment of Ayurveda has
The author also emphasized the cosmetic value of Lepa, been/is being developed free from all common problems of
e.g. Mukhakantikara Lepa[12] and Savarnatakarak Lepa.[13] applications of old Lepa. In these new Ayurvedic creams, herbs
are main ingredients and for better pharmaceutical properties
Ingredients of Lepa are very much similar as quoted in other these are added with new substances which have properties of a
treatise of Ayurveda. Total 208 Lepas are mentioned in this better base for the cream/ointment with some other excipients.
book.
Therapeutic properties of Ayurvedic cream/ointment (Lepa)
have been established by researches of contemporary period
Lepa Kalpa in Yogaratnakara
which are:
1. Various Ayurvedic cream formulations containing
The author had followed Bhavprakash in many references
Haridra (Curcuma longa) have been established for
and mentioned Rasadi Lepa,[14] Paradadi Lepa Guti[15] and
antibacterial and anti-inflammatory activities.[23]
incorporated Rasakarpura for treating Upadansha.[16] In
2. The sunflower (Helianthus annuus) and pumpkin
Yoga Ratnakar, Lepa are mainly indicated in Arsha, Visarpa,
(Cucurbita pepo) seed oils as well as Atasi or flax
Shotha, Shoola, Antravriddhi, Gandamala, Apachi, Snayuka,
or linseed oil (Linum sp.), which have a high fatty
Sheetapitta, Masurika, Aparapatan, and Lingavriddhi.
acid content mainly linoleic and linolenic acids,
were incorporated into Ayurvedic preparation for
Ingredients of Lepa described in this treatise are from herbal,
dermatological treatments including acne.[24] In addition
mineral, and animal origin.
to those natural oils, Karpas seed (Gossypium sp.),
Draksha (Vitis vinifera), Shigru (Moringa oliefera),
Yoga Ratnakar had described total 267 Lepa.
Ahiphena (Papaver), rapeseed (Brassica napus),
Tila (Sesamum indicum), Vatad (Prunus amygdalus),
Lepa Kalpa in Sahastrayogam Akshotak (Juglans regia), and Yava (Triticum vulgare),
which contain more than 10% (w/w) of linoleic acid are
In Sahastrayogam, Lepas are called Kulambu. They are not also used in the treatment of acne.[25]
mentioned in a separate chapter, but the specific name is 3. Basil, canella, caraway, cayenne, celery, cinnamon,

International Journal of Green Pharmacy • Oct-Dec 2015 (Suppl) • 9 (4) | S14

 Patil and Chaudhary: Lepa Kalpana of Ayurveda:An Unexplored Treasure

chilli, coriander, fenugreek, parsley, mint, mustard, resources. Skin care procedures forming the daily routine
oregano, paprika, pepper, rosemary, sage, turmeric, described in Ayurvedic literature consist of numerous
and thyme are used as natural sources of salicylic acid formulae involving herbs and other natural ingredients. They
in Ayurvedic topical preparations.[26,27] These herbs and were used as external applications in the form of packs,
spices in addition to fruits, for instance lemon, have been oils, herbal waters, powders, etc. Applications of these as
found to contain free salicylic acid in high content.[28] pastes have been classified into several kinds based on the
4. Ayurvedic creams worked as anti-inflammatory temperature, duration and thickness of application, the effect
(Shothahara). These creams protects the skin against of the application for healing, beautifying, anti-aging, etc.[34,35]
allergens, inflammatory substances, chemicals and even
stress, this group of herbs provide the anti-inflammatory Ayurvedic skin brightening agents are mostly compounds,
effect, essential to all anti-aging formulations. Rose which function by mechanism effecting melanin synthesis.
petal, silk cotton tree, and Kumari (Aloe vera) are Many Ayurvedic extracts from herbs, such as Nagakeshar
Shothahara herbs with appropriate anti-inflammatory (Ferula narthex), Yashtimadhu (Glycyrrhiza glabra),
properties used in Ayurvedic cream. Amalaki (Embelica officinalis), Shalmali (Morus alba),
5. Ayurvedic ointment works as protection from normal have been demonstrated to be effective. Haridra (C. longa)
wear and tear (Sandhaniya) of skin. Sandhaniya herbs is the Ayurvedic gem for which skin brightening effects are
help coalesce discontinued tissue, and in healing and attributed to its antioxidant properties. However, there have
regenerative functions of the skin, repairing effects been constrains in its use for topical application due to its
of aging. “Sensitive plant” enhances healing and colored nature.[36]
regeneration of the nerves by 30-40%.
6. Deep healing (Vranaropana) is another feature of
Ayurvedic cream.Topical agents used for wound healing VARIETY IN CONSTITUENCIES OF LEPA
includes antibiotics, antiseptics, and disloughing agents KALPA
(that causes chemical debridement). Phytochemical
entities isolated from plants such as flavonoids and Ayurvedic Acharya has indicated a variety of Lepa with
phenolic agents often used in wound treatment. The different ingredients varying from number to nature (Table 1).
herbs, such as Guggula, Amla, Manjisha, Yashtimadhu, These are presented as under;
and Shankha Bhasma (a mineral), have been reported to
promote skin tensile strength and epithelial formation.
Vranaropana herbs enhance deeper healing.[29] Jati extract Lepa Kalpana in Concurrent Market
along with ghee accelerates wound healing.[30] Neem
oil is used for dressing foul ulcers, eczema, ringworm. In contemporary market, here is flood of Ayurvedic
Neem leaf extracts posses’ antimicrobial property.[31] cream/ointment covering a range of full therapeutics and
7. Sharapunkha (Tephrosia purpura) have antibacterial, cosmeceutics. In the range of therapeutics, it consists of
antiulcer, anticancer properties due to its phenols and analgesic, anti-inflammatory-wound healing, etc. Where
flavonoids such as quercetin. Neem (Azadiracta indica) as in thrust areas of cosmeceutics it covered all aspects of
and Khadir (Acacia catechu) are widely prescribed to beautifications.
treat acne, psoriasis, and eczema. Gum resin exudates
of Boswellia serrate have been used in the Ayurvedic The analgesic Ayurvedic market is comprised mainly for
system of medicine in the management of several topical analgesics. Ayurvedic formulations contribute over
inflammatory conditions as a constituent of cream of 70% to the total OTC sale of topical analgesics. In fact, the
Ayurveda origin.[32] top brands in the topical market, such as Vicco turmeric,

Lepa Kalpa as Cosmeceuticals Table 1: Lepa as a single to multiple ingredients

Ingredients Description Reference
The origin of Ayurvedic cosmeceuticals goes date back to the One Gunja (Indralupta) Su.chi. 20/25
Indus Valley Civilization. The use of cosmetics was not only
Two Tilakalka+Madhu Su.chi. 19/38
directed toward developing an attractive external appearance
(Kaphaj Upadansha)
but toward achieving longevity with good health. There is
evidence of highly advanced concepts of self-beautification Three Gambhari, Mulethi, Yava Su.chi. 5/12
(all types of Vatarakta)
and a large array of cosmetics used by both men and women
in ancient India. Many of these practices depended on the Four Nyagrodha, Kadali, Ch.chi. 21/73
season (Rutus) and were subtly interwoven with daily routine Bisa, Shatadhauta
Ghrita (Visarpa)
(Dinacharya).[33]
Five Danti, Trivritta, Ch.chi. 14/54
The whole range of cosmetic usage and its practice as Tuttha, Kapota vishta,
conceived by the ancient Indians was based on natural Gudha (Arsha)

International Journal of Green Pharmacy • Oct-Dec 2015 (Suppl) • 9 (4) | S15

 Patil and Chaudhary: Lepa Kalpana of Ayurveda:An Unexplored Treasure

No Mark, Himami Boroplus, have already established its Contemporary Cream/Ointment as Nutraceuticals
position. The top brand in the analgesic market of Ayurveda
(Zandu Balm, Moov, and Amrutanjan) competing closely Nutraceutical supplements are receiving increasing consumer
with diclofenac brands such as Volini. Recently Volini Activ, acceptance, creating demand for new product innovations
an Ayurvedic variant of Volini, was also launched. While based on superior delivery systems most current delivery
Diclofenac Volini has been trusted and recommended by systems for nutraceutical products are based on direct
doctors. Many more Ayurvedic cream/ointment/gel under ingestion. These oral delivery systems pose issues relative
section 3 (h) of Drugs and Cosmetics Act, 1940 are in the to their unacceptable odor and taste and degradation of the
market. nutraceutical itself during its transport from the digestive
system to the site of the desired action. Topical delivery
systems circumvent some of these issues due to their
RULES FOR APPLICATION OF application near or at the site of affliction.[45]
AYURVEDIC LEPA
Nutraceuticals-based topical delivery systems can be
The Ayurvedic manoeuvre suggests that Lepa, i.e. the topical formulated as functional cosmetics (cosmeceuticals)
formulations should be gently rubbed in an upward or reverse to complement the efficacy of their ingestion-based
direction of the hairs over the skin.[37] This method of rubbing counterparts. However, the product development of these
increases the skin temperature which might be hastening the functional cosmetics faces challenges unique to each
pilosebaceous uptake and skin permeation of the drug in the nutraceutical ingredient and their targeted performance
topical formulation.[38] Never allow the Lepa to get dry[39] attributes. For example, the inclusion of dietary fiber in a
Lepa should not applied at night.[40] Stale Lepa should not functional cosmetic to provide reduced cancer risk. Benefits
be used.[41] Avoid application on and on.[41] All these rules are of the fiber are not viable due to insignificant absorption of
addressed for proper absorption and avoiding any ill effects that fiber through a topical delivery system. The incorporation
of Lepa. of nutraceutical supplements in functional cosmetics requires
special considerations relative to the aspects of product
appearance, dosage level, cosmetic benefits, storage stability,
Thickness of Lepa bioavailability, efficacy, and cost. Those activities require
a combination of cosmetic and pharmaceutical product
Acharya Sushruta instructed that the Thickness of Lepa development technologies.[46]
should be equivalent to moist buffalo’s skin.[42] It is 4-5 mm
approximately. Hence, a Lepa having thickness <4-5 mm
should be considered as “Thin Lepa” and greater should
DISCUSSION
be considered as “Thick Lepa.” Whereas Acharya Charaka
clarifies that when a rubefacient action of a drug is expected,
An analytical interpretation of all information available
it should be applied uniformly thick over the skin. However,
in Ayurvedic classics regarding Lepa Kalpa right from
when softening and soothing action is to be elicited, the drug
ingredients to indication are establishing richness of subject
should be applied uniformly thin over the skin. In fact, this
on the basis of academic and clinical acumen. Acharyas
statement interprets the mode of application of a drug as
have had emphasized each and every minute detail for
per the requirement and not the properties of the mentioned
best therapeutic and cosmeceutics effect. Out of all these
drugs.[43] Modern pharmaceutics has not laid down any such
augmentative scores in relation of Lepa Kalpa, authors are
norms. It recommends only a uniform application over the
trying to keep few points in order for further advancement of
affected skin surface.
the subject which are:

Shelf Life Period of Lepa The Ayurvedic skin care products which are used externally
(topically) in the form of packs, oils, herbal powder, pastes,
If a Lepa, contains vegetable drugs, it should be used etc., are classified on the basis of the temperature, duration,
within 24 h, otherwise the drugs get decomposed, and the and thickness. The Ayurvedic bases for Lepa Kalpa are not
application may harm the skin. If a Lepa is made up of inert substances, but they are therapeutically active too.
mineral and metallic drugs, the drugs themselves do not have Also the bases, as such, do not fulfill the criteria for an
any expiry period. Hence, it depends totally upon the base ideal base laid down by modern pharmaceutics; still they
with which the drugs are mixed to form a Lepa. Because, are much more than that in efficacy.[38] Various flowers,
except Siktha, Ghrita, and Taila, all other Ayurvedic bases such as Jati, Kamal, and Ketaki, are added to the Lepa
have the propensity to go rancid within 24 h.[22] gives fragrance to the Lepas. Many Ayurvedic plant acts
as emollients such as A. vera, peanut extract, and Sarshap.
Rule 161B of Drugs and Cosmetics Rule, 1945 said that Many plants that possess antioxidant property may be
self-life period of Lepa Churna is 1 year, Lepa Malahar is used as a preservative in Lepas such as Haridra and
2 years, and Lepa Guti is 3 years.[44] Karavellak.[47] (Table 2).

International Journal of Green Pharmacy • Oct-Dec 2015 (Suppl) • 9 (4) | S16

 Patil and Chaudhary: Lepa Kalpana of Ayurveda:An Unexplored Treasure

Table 2: Comparison of additives used in Lepa is the foremost Vayasthapana herb with anti-aging
effects; one of its many properties is to enhance collagen
Additives Modern Ayurveda
synthesis.
Bases Paraffin wax, fat oil Siktha, castor oil Amalaki (Phyllanthus emblica), a potent antioxidant, rich
Antioxidants Butylated hydroxy Raktachandan, in Vitamin C, tannins, and gallic acid, is foremost among
anisole, propyl gallate, Masoor, Haridra the anti-aging drugs (Vayasthaprana) or best among the
nor‑dihydroguaiaretic rejuvenating herbs; it has properties such as Rasayana
acid
(adaptogenic), Ajara (usefulness in aging), Ayushprada
Chelating Maleic acid, Nimbu (prolongs cell life), Sandhaniya (improves cell migration
agents phosphoric acid and cell binding), and Kantikara (improves complexion).
Tragacanths Polysaccharides Methika In 2008, mintel picked up 46 haircare, 45 skincare,
Aromatics Jasmine, rose, lily Jati, Chandana, 8 color cosmetics, and 2 soap/bath launches containing
Ela, Kamal Amalaki. Thus, we can see that use of Amalaki for
Emollients Glycerine, giyceryl Sarshap, Champaka, cosmetic purposes.
triacetate Kumari 2. Youthful radiance (Varnya) – An important group of
Penetration Dimethyl sulfoxide, Gomutra, Kanji, herbs called Varnya, has the ability to enhance the
enhancers azone, ethanol Takra, Sura radiance or bright complexion of the skin. If the skin
does not have a healthy glow or Varnya quality, then it
is not considered youthful in Ayurveda. Varnya herbs
The main disadvantage of transdermal drug delivery is the
poor penetration of most compounds into the human skin. include sandalwood, vetiver, Indian madder and Indian
The main barrier of the skin is located within its uppermost sarsaparilla, and so on.
layer, the stratum corneum. Several approaches have 3. Enhancing and nurturing (Tvachya) – These herbs support
been developed to weaken this skin barrier. One of the moisture balance and provide overall nourishment to the
approaches for increasing the skin penetration of drugs and skin. Gotu Kola, silk cotton tree, costus, and rose petal
many cosmetic chemicals is using vesicular systems such as are the most widely used. Grapefruit extract and natural
liposomes, neosomes, and ethosomes. Ethanol is known as sources of Vitamins A, C, and E nourish the skin.
an efficient permeation enhancer and has been added in the 4. Strengthening the skin’s metabolic mechanisms
vesicular systems to prepare elastic nanovesicles.[48] (Tvachagnivardhani) – This means literally to enhance
the luster of the skin by enhancing the skin’s metabolism.
In Ayurveda too various alcoholic preparations are As one age, metabolism generally slows down; similarly,
incorporated in various Lepas, such as Kanji, Sauviraka, skin metabolism also weakens. If enzymes become
Tushodaka, Sura, and Prasanna, are seem to enhance the imbalanced, metabolic toxins are created Ama. Ama
penetration of Lepas. The concept of niosomes (non-ionic in the skin clogs the channels, leading to wrinkles,
surfactant vesicles) obtained on hydration is microscopic dryness, and other signs of aging. Clogged channels also
lamellar structures formed on combining non-ionic create dullness and lack of youthful glow. Application
surfactant of the alkyl or dialkyl polyglycerol ether class with of C. asiatica enhances enzyme principles; topically, it
cholesterol.[49] It is comparable to the Shatadhauta Ghrita improves circulation early. Furthermore, by removing
as it is obtained by repeatedly washing of Ghrita by water. Ama and deep impurities, it helps prevent varicose
The penetration enhancer like Gomuta is also used in many veins, cellulitis, aging skin, and weakened immunity to
Lepas. Gomutra contains urea which is a potent penetration allergens and skin diseases.
enhancer.
Modern pharmaceutics is exploring many ointment, liniment,
lotion, gels, creams paste, etc. Ayurveda too is not lagging
PROBABLE MECHANISM OF ACTION OF behind they had developed the Lepa in the form of Churna,
AYURVEDIC COSMECEUTICALS[32] Kalka, Rasakriya, Masi, Kshara, etc (Table 3). Various bases
are mentioned in Ayurveda they are olegenious (Taila, Ghrita
In this review, we are proposing a few probable mechanisms Shatadhauta Ghrita, Siktataila). Though the efficiency
which may be responsible for the action of Ayurvedic cream/ of the above said oleaginous bases is beyond doubt, their
ointment. These are: acceptability is very less because of their greasy nature and
1. Age defying activity (Vayasthapana) – The ingredient a peculiar rancid odor they render to the skin. Such bases are
that nourishes the skin and ensures its optimum emollient but generally require the addition of antioxidants
physiological functions and has an overall anti-aging and other preservatives.
property is called Vayasthapana, which literally
means “maintaining youthfulness” or “arresting age.” Authors are of the opinion that present day Ayurvedic
Vayasthapana herbs give overall support to the skin by cream/ointment/gel has overcome all problems of
keeping all three doshas in balance. Centella asiatica pharmaceutics by adapting all advanced technologies.

International Journal of Green Pharmacy • Oct-Dec 2015 (Suppl) • 9 (4) | S17

 Patil and Chaudhary: Lepa Kalpana of Ayurveda:An Unexplored Treasure

Table 3: Different dosages forms of Lepas 7. Vagbhattacharya, Ashtanghridaya, Sutra Sthana 22/19-
21 commentaries Sarvangasundara of Arunadatta
Dosage forms Disease References
and Ayurveda Rasayan of Hemadri annoted by Anna
Kalka Valmik Su.chi. 20/51 Moreshwar Kunte. In: Pt. Shastri HS, editor. Varanasi:
Lepa Guti Shwitra Su.chi. 9/21‑22 Chaukhambha Surbharti Prakashan; 2010.
Varti Shwitra Su.chi. 9/25‑26 8. Sharangdhara, Sharangdhara Samhita, Uttarkhanda 11/1
Rasakriya Kushtha As.h.chi19/61
Dipika Commentary of Adhamalla. In: Vidyasagar PS,
editor. Varanasi: Chaukhambha Surbharti Prakashan;
Churna Kaccuradi Churna Sahastrayogam,
2011.
(Shiroroga) Churna Prakaran
9. Ibidem Reference no. 7, Sharangdhara Samhita,
Kshara Palash Ksara Sahastrayogam, Uttarkhanda 11/8.
(Kushtha) Bhasmaksharadi
10. Ibidem Reference no. 7, Sharangdhara Samhita,
Yoga
Uttarkhanda 11/4-5.
Masi Shwitra Su.chi. 9/17 11. Ibidem Reference no. 7, Sharangdhara Samhita,
Uttarkhanda 11/40.
CONCLUSION 12. Bhavmishra, Bhavprakash, 61/36, edited with the
Vidyotini Hindi Commentary, by Shri Brahma
Ayurveda had reached the zenith of knowledge in the Samhita Shankar Mishra and Shri Rupalaji Vaisya. Varanasi:
Kala regarding the application of Lepa Kalpa for therapeutic Chowkhambha Sanskrit Bhavan; 2007.
and cosmeceutics purposes. Moreover, in contemporary era 13. Ibidem, Reference no. 12, Bhavprakash, 47/73.
here are tremendous opportunities for further advancement 14. Yogaratnakara, Lakshmipati Shastri, 8/33, Vidyotini
of Lepa Kalpa for much better therapeutic, cosmeceutics, Hindi Commentary. Varanasi: Chaukhamba Sanskrit
and neutraceutics purposes by adopting current science and Sansthan; 2005.
technology. 15. Ibidem, Reference no. 14, Yogaratnakara, 53/24-26.
16. Ibidem, Reference no. 14, Yogaratnakara, 53/34-35.
17. Ramnivas Sharama, Surendra Sharma, Sahastrayogam
Vati Prakaran. 3rd ed. Delhi: Chaukhamba Sanskrita
REFERENCES Pratishthan; 2001.
18. Ibidem, Reference no.16, Sahastrayogam Churna
1. Agnivasha, Charak, Drudhabala. Charak Samhita
Prakaran.
Sutrasthana, Aragvadhiya Adhaya 3 Ayurveda Dipika
19. Ibidem, Reference no.16, Sahastrayogam Taila Prakaran.
Commentary by Chakrapanidatta In: Acharya YT, editor. 20. Ibidem, Reference no.16, Sahastrayogam Ghrita
Reprint Edition. Varanasi: Chaukhambha Surbharti Prakaran.
Prakashan; 2008. 21. Ibidem, Reference no.16, Sahastrayogam Sahastrayogam,
2. Sushruta, Sushrata Samhita, Sutra Stana, Bhasmaksharadi Yoga Prakaran.
Vranalepabandhavidi Adhayay 18/6 edited with 22. The Ayurvedic Formulary of India Part I. 2nd ed. GOI,
Ayurveda Sandipika Hindi Commentary by Kaviraj Ministry of Health and Family Welfare. New Delhi:
Ambikadutta Shastri. Varanasi: Chaukhambha Sanskrita Department of Indian System of Medicine and
Sanstana; 1997. Homoeopathy; 2003.
3. Sushruta, Sushrata Samhita, Chikitsa Sthana, 23. Lalla JK, Nandedkar SY, Paranjape MH, Talreja NB.
Anagatabadhpratishedh Adhaya 24/63 edited with Clinical trials of ayurvedic formulations in the treatment
Ayurveda Sandipika Hindi Commentary by Kaviraj of acne vulgaris. J Ethnopharmacol 2001;78:99-102.
Ambikadutta Shastri. Varanasi: Chaukhambha Sanskrita 24. Tolkachev ON, Zhychenko AA. Biologically active
Sanstana; 1997. substances of flax: Medicinal and nutritional properties
4. Sushruta, Sushrata Samhita, Chikitsa Sthana, (a review). Pharm Chem J 2000;34:360-7.
Vranachikitsa Adhaya 1 edited with Ayurveda Sandipika 25. Kanlayavattanakul M, Lourith N. Therapeutic agents
Hindi Commentary by Kaviraj Ambikadutta Shastri. and herbs in topical application for acne treatment. Int J
Varanasi: Chaukhambha Sanskrita Sanstana; 1997. Cosmet Sci 2011;33:289-97.
5. Vagbhattacharya, Ashtang Samgraha Uttartantra, 26. Scheier L. Salicylic acid: One more reason to eat your
Vranapratishedha 30/8 Sashilekha Sanskrita Commentary fruits and vegetables. J Am Diet Assoc 2001;101:1406-8.
by Indu. In: Sharma S, editor. Varanasi: Chaukhambha 27. Oganesyan ET, Nersesyan ZM, Parkhomenkom AY.
Sanskrita Series Office; 2012. Chemical composition of the above-ground part of
6. Vagbhattacharya, Ashtanghridaya, Sutra Sthana 22/14. Coriandrum sativum. Pharm Chem J 2007;41:149-53.
Commentaries Sarvangasundara of Arunadatta and 28. Scotter MJ, Toberts DP, Wilson LA, Howard Frances AC,
Ayurveda Rasayan of Hemadri Annoted by Anna Davis j, Mansell N. Free fatty acid and acetyl salicylic
Moreshwar Kunte. In: Pt. Shastri HS, editor. Varanasi: acid content of foods using gas chromatography mass
Chaukhambha Surbharti Prakashan; 2010. spectrometry. Food Chem 2007;105:273-9.

International Journal of Green Pharmacy • Oct-Dec 2015 (Suppl) • 9 (4) | S18

 Patil and Chaudhary: Lepa Kalpana of Ayurveda:An Unexplored Treasure

29. Nadakarni KM, Nadakarni AK. Indian Materia Medica. 40. Ibidem, Reference no. 2, Sushruta Samhita Sutra
3rd ed. Bombay: Popular Prakashan Ltd.; 1954. p. 167-70. Sthana 18/13.
30. Despande PJ, Pathak SN. Comparative study of healing 41. Ibidem, Reference no. 2, Sushruta SamhitaSutra
in experimental burns under the influence of ghee and Sthana. 18/15.
Jasmena medicated ghee used topically. Indian J Med 42. Ibidem, Reference no. 2, Sushruta SamhitaSutra
Res 1966;1:81. Sthana 18/12.
31. Jain SK, Tarafdar CR. Medicinal plant love of Sautals: 43. Ibidem, Reference no. 1, Charaka Samhita,
A review of P.O. Bodding’s work. Econ Bot 1970;24:241. Chikitsasthana 30/324-325.
32. Datta HS, Paramesh R. Trends in aging and skin care: 44. Law Relating to Drug and Cosmetics. Act 1940,
Ayurvedic concepts. J Ayurveda Integr Med 2010;1:110-3. Rules.1945. Vijay Malik. Lucknow: Eastern Book
33. Patkar KB. Herbal cosmetics in ancient India. Indian J Company; 2014.
Plast Surg 2008;41:S134-7. 45. Leighton P. Up-and-Coming Delivery Systems. 45-70
34. Kligman LH. Preventing, delaying, and repairing Hilltop Road, Ramsey, USA: Nutraceuticals World;
photoaged skin. Cutis 1988;41:419-20. 2000. p. 40.
35. Ghersetich I, Brazzini B, Peris K, Cotellessa C, 46. Gupta S. Antioxidants: Formulation of Cosmetic
Manunta T, Lotti T. Pyruvic acid peels for the treatment Delivery Systems. 45-70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey, USA:
of photoaging. Dermatol Surg 2004;30:32-6. HAPPI; 2001. p. 56.
36. Formulating, Packaging and Marketing of Natural 47. Kole PL, Hemanta RJ, Prasad T, Nagappa NA.
Cosmetic Products edited by Nava Dayan, Lambros, Cosmeceutic potential of herbal extracts. Nat Prod
Kromidas. Radiance 2005;4:306-14.
37. Ibidem, Reference no. 2, Sushruta SamhitaSutra 48. Verma P, Pathak K. Therapeutic and cosmeceutical
Sthana 18/4. potential of ethosomes: An overview. J Adv Pharm
38. Karche S. Clinical study on the role of Sidhmahara Technol Res 2010;1:274-82.
Lepa in the management of Sidhma & Dadru with 49. Malhotra M, Jain NK. Niosomes as drug carriers. Indian
special reference to fungal dermatophytes Kayachikitsa. Drugs 1994;31:81-6.
Jamnagar: IPGT&R; 2004.
39. Ibidem, Reference no. 2, Sushruta Samhita Sutra
Sthana 18/5. Source of Support: Nil. Conflict of Interest: None declared.

International Journal of Green Pharmacy • Oct-Dec 2015 (Suppl) • 9 (4) | S19

View publication stats