FAIRY DUST - CARDI

——————— Open-front raglan cardigan with picot border

Worked from the top-down, the Fairy Dust Cardi is a wonderful introduction to crochet raglan shaping.
Extended single crochet mesh keeps this cardi easy breezy for afternoon errands and weekend trips to
the mall. Add a touch of drama with modest bell sleeves, delicate picot bordering on the cuff and collar,
and a waist belt to keep it all together.

The Fairy Dust Cardi is part of the Happy Place pattern collection, designed to complement Happy Place
Yarn. Find even more patterns and get the yarn needed for this project from Hobbii’s website.

Pattern by Toni of TL Yarn Crafts

Let’s connect on Instagram @TLYarnCrafts | Tag your projects with #TLYCMaker #hobbiihappyplace

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 PROJECT SUPPLIES
YARN: Hobbii Happy Place, DK weight (#3); 50% wool, 50% cotton [273
yards (250 m) per 100g skein].

Color: 29 Melange
Total yardage: 1610 (1710, 1890), 2170 (2360, 2550, 2750) / 1473
(1564, 1729), 1985 (2157, 2332, 2515) m
6 (7, 7, 8) (9, 10, 11) skeins

HOOK: US I/9 5.5mm crochet hook or size needed to meet gauge

NOTIONS & SUPPLIES: Scissors, tapestry needle, locking stitch markers,

tape measure and/or ruler, steam blocking supplies

BUY THE YARN HERE: https://shop.hobbii.com/fairy-dust-cardi

FINISHED DIMENSIONS
SIZE: S (M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL). All sizes intended to have 0-2”/ 0-5 cm
positive ease. Measurements taken after light steam blocking.
Finished Bust: 34 (38, 42, 46) (50, 54, 58)” / 86.5 (96.5, 106.5, 117)
(127, 137, 147.5) cm
Length: 34 (34, 36, 36) (37, 37, 38)” / 86.5 (86.5, 91.5, 91.5) (94, 94,
96.5) cm

GAUGE: 4” x 4“ (10 x 10 cm) = 20 sts x 11 rows in (esc + ch-1) pattern.

Ch-1 sps counted as a stitch in gauge.

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 ABBREVIATIONS
ch chain sc single crochet

esc extended single crochet sk skip

hdc half double crochet sl st slip stitch

inc increase sp(s) space(s)

lp(s) loop(s) st(s) stitch(es)

pic picot tch turning chain

rep repeat yo yarn over

RS right side

PATTERN DIRECTIONS

NOTES

● Consider this pattern more a recipe than a row-by-row set of instructions. Try on your
cardigan as you go and make adjustments to achieve the perfect fit.

● Before beginning, scan through pattern and highlight instructions for your size to make the
pattern easier to read.

● Starting ch-3 counts as esc + ch 1.

SPECIAL STITCHES

Work In Pattern: Where instructed, working in patterns means to continue with the established
stitch pattern. In this case, that means to (Esc in next ch-sp, ch 1, sk 1 st).

Extended Single Crochet (Esc): Insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a lp, yo, pull through 1 lp, yo,
pull through both remaining lps.

Extended Single Crochet Increase (Inc): (Esc 1, ch 1, esc 1) in same st.

Picot (Pic): Ch 3, sl st in st at base of ch.

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YOKE
As rows progress, move markers up to ch-sp of increase.

ROW 1: Ch 95 (107, 113, 129) (141, 147, 159), hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each st across, turn.
[94 (106, 112, 128, 140, 146, 158)]

ROW 2: Ch 3, sk hdc at base of ch and next hdc, (esc in next hdc, ch 1, sk next hdc) 7 (7, 7, 9)
(10, 10, 11) times, inc in next st, place marker in ch-1 of inc, *ch 1, sk 1 hdc, (esc in next hdc, ch
1, sk next hdc) 7 (9, 10, 11) (12, 13, 14) times, inc in next st, place marker in ch-1 of inc, ch 1, sk
next st,* (esc in next hdc, ch 1, sk next hdc) 14 (16, 17, 19) (21, 22, 24) times, inc in next st, rep *
to *, (esc in next hdc, ch 1, sk next hdc) to last st, esc in last st, turn. [102 (114, 120, 136) (148,
154, 166)]

ROW 3: Ch 3, sk esc at base of ch, [(esc in the following ch-sp, ch 1, sk next esc) to next marked
st, inc in marked st, ch 1, sk next esc] to last ch-sp of row, sk last ch-sp, esc in 2nd ch of tch, turn.
(+4 esc)

REMAINDER OF YOKE: Rep Row 3 until yoke measures 23 (25, 27, 29) (31, 33, 35)” / 58.5 (63.5,
68.5, 73.5) (78.75, 83.75, 89) cm wide at widest point when lying flat (see image).

Now it’s time to try on your raglan.

· If the arm depth reaches 1” / 2.5 cm into your armpit, continue to next section.
· If the arm depth DOES NOT reach 1” / 2.5 cm into your armpit, continue in pattern in
two-row increments without increasing until the line of the raglan reaches 1” / 2.5 cm into your
armpit. Move markers to ch-sp that follows the original line of the raglan.

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BODY
To start the Body, we’ll begin by splitting for the sleeves. First, we have to do a little math to
determine how many stitches to add to the underarm to reach our desired bust.

STEP 1: Lay your cardigan flat, bringing the front panels together. Measure the width from
raglan line to raglan line across the front: _______.

STEP 2: Multiply this number by 2, then subtract the new number from your desired bust
measurement: _______. This is the total width you need to add to your bust.

STEP 3: Divide the number reached in Step 2 by two: ________. We need to add this amount to
EACH underarm to increase the cardigan evenly.

STEP 4: Measure your stitch gauge to determine how many stitches are in the measurement
reached in Step 3: _________ sts. Round this number up or down to reach an ODD number as
needed.

Now, onto the cardigan…

ROW 1: Ch 3, work in pattern until you reach the first marked ch-sp of the raglan line. *Esc in
the marked st, ch the number reached in Step 4 above, sk all sleeve sts and proceed to the next
marked ch-sp, esc in the marked ch-sp*, continue in pattern to the next marked ch-sp, rep * to
*, work in pattern to last ch-sp, sk ch-sp, esc in 2nd ch of tch, turn. Drop all markers.

ROW 2: Ch 3, work in pattern to esc before underarm ch-sp. *Ch 1, sk next esc, esc in next ch,
(ch 1, sk 1, esc in next ch) across ch-sp, ch 1, sk next esc, esc in following ch-sp*, work in pattern
to next underarm ch-sp, rep * to *, work in pattern to last ch-sp, sk ch-sp, esc in 2nd ch of tch,
turn.

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REMAINDER OF BODY: Continue to work in pattern until body measures 28 (28, 30, 30) (31, 31,
32)” / 71 (71, 76.25, 76.25) (78.75, 78.75, 81.25) cm long OR 6” / 15.25 cm shorter than your
desired length. Proceed to hip split.

Hip Split
SETUP: Lay your cardigan flat, bringing the front panels together. Trace a line from the underarm
to the working row and place a marker in the st of the working row. Repeat for other side. This
stitch denotes the top of the hip split.

FRONT PANEL 1: Ch 3, work in pattern, placing last st in ch-sp before marked st, turn. Continue
in this way, adding 10 rows to the front panel of your cardigan. Fasten off at end.

BACK PANEL: Join with a sl st in the ch-sp on the other side of the marked st from Front Panel 1,
ch 3, work in pattern, placing last st in ch-sp before next marked st, turn. Continue in this way,
adding 10 rows to the back panel of your cardigan. Fasten off at end.

FRONT PANEL 2: Join with a sl st in the ch-sp on the other side of the marked st from Back
Panel, ch 3, work in pattern across row to last ch-sp, sk ch-sp, esc in 2nd ch of tch, turn. Continue
in this way, adding 10 rows to the front panel of your cardigan. Fasten off at end.

Remove all markers.

SLEEVES
With RS facing you, locate the ch-sp at the base of the arm hole. Find the ch in the very middle
of that ch-sp, join with a sl st in that ch.

Upper Sleeve

ROUND 1: Ch 3, sk the ch at the base of the ch and the next ch, (esc in the following ch, ch 1, sk
next ch) to sleeve sts, work in pattern around the sleeve opening to the underarm ch-sp, (esc in
the following ch, ch 1, sk next ch) to tch, sl st in the 2nd ch of the tch to join, turn.

ROUND 2: Ch 3, sk st at base of ch, (esc in the following ch-sp, ch 1, sk next st) around to last
ch-sp, sk ch-sp, sl st in the 2nd ch of the tch to join, turn.

Repeat Round 2 until sleeve reaches halfway down forearm. NOTE: There are no increases in sts
through this section – keep watch that your stitch count does not increase or decrease here.

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Bell Sleeve

The Bell Sleeve is created by placing 6 increases in a round, then no increases in the following
round. This is repeated for 12 total rounds.

· If you’d like your bell more pronounced and ruffled, place increases in every round.

· If you’d like your bell more subtle and gradual, place less increases per round OR place 2
rounds with no increases between your increase rounds.

ROUND 1: Place 6 locking stitch markers in ch-sps evenly around the working row. Ch 3, work in
sleeve pattern to first marker, inc in marked sp, drop marker (work in pattern to next marker, inc
in marked sp, drop marker) around, continue in pattern to last ch-sp, sk ch-sp, sl st in 2nd ch of
the tch to join, turn.

ROUND 2: Ch 3, sk st at base of ch, (esc in the following ch-sp, ch 1, sk next st) around to last
ch-sp, sk ch-sp, sl st in the 2nd ch of the tch to join, turn.

ROUNDS 3-12: Rep Rounds 1-2. When placing markers, do not place them directly below
increases from the previous increase round.

ROUND 13 (RS): Ch 1, turn work so RS is facing if needed, sc in st at base of ch, ch 1, esc in next
st, ch 1, [esc in next st, pic, ch 1, (esc in next st, ch 1) 2 times] around, sl st in first sc of round,
fasten off.

Repeat all instructions for second sleeve.

PICOT EDGING
ROUND 1: With RS facing, join with a sl st in any st near the center of the back panel, ch 1, sc in
st at base of ch, ch 1, esc in next st, ch 1, [esc in next st, pic, ch 1, (esc in next st, ch 1) 2 times]
until you reach the hip split, sc evenly along the hip split (no picots in the split), continue in
picot pattern along front panel to corner, ch 2, rotate to work along cardigan front, continue in
picot pattern around entirety of cardigan, placing a ch-2 at corners and no picots in the hip split.
Sl st in first sc of round, fasten off.

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BELT
Loops
STEP 1: Put your cardigan on and place a locking stitch marker where you’d like the loops of
your belt to go – repeat for the other side. Place the markers along the side of the cardigan,
close to the smallest part of your waist and well above your hips.

STEP 2: Remove the cardigan and measure 3” / 7.5 cm up from where the first marker is placed.
Add another marker and repeat for the other side. This will be the placement of your belt loops.

STEP 3: Sl st around the first marked st to join, ch 8, sl st around the 2nd marked st to join, fasten
off. Repeat for other side. Tie a knot at the base of the ends to prevent the ties from unraveling.

Belt
ROW 1: Ch 9, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn. (8 hdc)

ROW 2: Ch 2, sk st at base of ch, hdc in each remaining st, turn.

Rep Row 2 until belt measures 2x your natural waist. DO NOT FASTEN OFF.

BORDER: Ch 1, rotate to work along row ends, sc evenly along row ends to corner, ch 1, rotate
to work along beginning ch, sc in each st to corner, ch 1, rotate to work along row ends, sc
evenly along row ends to corner, ch 1, rotate to work along last row, sc in each st to corner, sl st
in first sc of round, fasten off.

ASSEMBLY & FINISHING

● Weave in all ends.

● Steam block cardigan to final dimensions. I achieved this by first laying the cardigan flat and
steaming, then draping it on a mannequin and steaming while lightly stretching the sleeves
and body.

● Steam block belt lightly – do not stretch it.

● Thread belt through ch-lps.

● Put on your cardigan and STRUT YOUR STUFF!

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Pattern and images ©TLYarnCrafts. Do not reproduce, duplicate, redistribute, or sell. Sale of products
made using this pattern is permitted; when selling online, credit TLYarnCrafts.

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