CPRI TPR Injunction 24 Oct 24
CPRI TPR Injunction 24 Oct 24
CPRI TPR Injunction 24 Oct 24
Plaintiff,
-against-
Case No. 1:24-cv-03109 (JLR)
TAPESTRY, INC.,
OPINION AND ORDER
-and-
Defendants.
Antitrust has come into fashion. The Federal Trade Commission (the “FTC”),
proceeding under Section 13(b) of the Federal Trade Commission Act (the “FTC Act”), 15
U.S.C. § 53(b), seeks to preliminarily enjoin the proposed merger of Tapestry, Inc.
(“Tapestry”) and Capri Holdings Limited (“Capri” and, together with Tapestry,
“Defendants”). The FTC argues that the merger likely will substantially lessen competition in
the market for accessible-luxury handbags, in violation of Section 7 of the Clayton Act, 15
U.S.C. § 18. Defendants deny that such a product market exists; in the alternative,
Defendants contest the FTC’s claims as to the merger’s likely anticompetitive effects.
evidence and arguments presented, and for the following reasons, the Court GRANTS the
FTC’s motion to preliminarily enjoin the merger pending the completion of the FTC’s in-
1
BACKGROUND
I. Defendants
A. Tapestry
As it described itself in an August 2022 filing with the Securities and Exchange
Commission (the “SEC”), Tapestry “is a leading New York-based house of accessible luxury
headquartered in New York. Dkt. 1 (the “Complaint” or “Compl.”) ¶ 24; Dkt. 91 (“Tapestry
Ans.”) ¶ 24. Tapestry owns three brands: Coach, Kate Spade, and Stuart Weitzman. PX7435
Coach was founded in New York in 1941. PX7435 at 4; Tr. at 435:22-24, 473:20-22
(Kahn). It began as a small manufacturer of men’s leather goods before expanding into
products targeted at women. Tr. at 474:1-6 (Kahn). Coach coined the term “accessible
luxury” in advance of its initial public offering in 2000. Id. at 259:16-19 (Crevoiserat); id. at
437:20-438:6 (Kahn). Coach purchased Stuart Weitzman in 2015 and Kate Spade in 2017.
DX0283 (“Scott Morton Rep.”) ¶ 63. Soon after the latter acquisition, the combined firm
During its fiscal year 2024 (which ended on June 29, 2024), Tapestry generated over
$6.6 billion in revenue, with gross margins of 73.3 percent. Id. at 1, 38, 40, 79; see also Tr. at
107:24-108:15 (Idol discussing PX2429 at 12, a slide deck presented to Capri board: during
third quarter of 2023, Coach and Kate Spade had gross margins of 71.4 percent and 61.6
wholesale sales of crossbody bags, satchels, shoulder bags, and totes/shoppers were
percent for Coach and percent for Kate Spade. PX6000 (“Smith Rep.”) ¶ 104.
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Coach is the largest of the three brands in Tapestry’s portfolio, accounting for 76.4
percent of Tapestry’s total net sales in fiscal year 2024. PX7435 at 103. Coach is “a leader in
the women’s category for handbags.” PX8169 at 137:17-20 (Lifford). It also sells small
accessories, watches, and fragrances. PX7105 at 11-12; Tr. at 474:13-16 (Kahn). Tapestry’s
next largest brand is Kate Spade, which accounted for 20 percent of Tapestry’s total net sales
in fiscal year 2024. PX7435 at 103. Handbags are the largest part of Kate Spade’s business.
Tr. at 820:15-17 (Fraser). Kate Spade also sells small leather goods, ready-to-wear apparel,
footwear, fragrances, watches, and accessories. Id. at 882:20-883:3 (Fraser); PX7105 at 8, 11-
12. The smallest Tapestry brand, Stuart Weitzman, accounted for 3.6 percent of Tapestry’s
total net sales in fiscal year 2024. PX7435 at 103. “The significant majority of sales for
Stuart Weitzman is attributable to women’s footwear.” Id. at 103 n.1; see PX6001 (“Smith
Reply Rep.”) ¶ 62 tbl.1 & n.3 (Stuart Weitzman had just in handbag sales in 2023).
B. Capri
Capri is a global fashion firm incorporated in the British Virgin Islands and
headquartered in the United Kingdom. Compl. ¶ 25; Dkt. 92 (“Capri Ans.”) ¶ 25. Capri owns
three brands: Michael Kors, Jimmy Choo, and Versace. PX7261 at 8-9; Tr. at 81:15-16
(Idol).
The individual Michael Kors, to whom the Court will refer as “Mr. Kors” to avoid
confusion, founded his namesake brand in New York in 1981. PX7261 at 8; Tr. at 1066:25-
1067:1, 1084:13-1085:9 (Mr. Kors). Michael Kors purchased Jimmy Choo in 2017 and
Versace in 2018. Scott Morton Rep. ¶ 68. In conjunction with the latter acquisition, the firm
3
During its fiscal year 2024 (which, for Capri, ended on March 30, 2024), Capri
generated about $5.2 billion in total global revenue, with gross margins of 64.6 percent.
PX7261 at 1, 10, 47; see also Tr. at 107:24-108:15 (Idol discussing PX2429 at 12, a slide deck
presented to Capri board: during third quarter of 2023, Michael Kors had margins of 63.6
percent, including 67.6 percent at retail). In 2023, Michael Kors’s revenue-weighted profit
margins for direct-to-consumer and wholesale sales of crossbody bags, satchels, shoulder
Michael Kors generated about 68 percent of Capri’s revenue during fiscal year 2024.
PX7261 at 10. It began selling handbags in 2000. Tr. at 1085:22-24 (Mr. Kors). It also sells
jewelry, watches, eyewear, ready-to-wear apparel, footwear, fragrances, and other products.
Id. at 1087:22-25 (Mr. Kors). As explained by Capri in a May 2023 SEC filing, Michael Kors
offers three product lines: the “Michael Kors Collection luxury line” (the “MK Collection”),
the “the MICHAEL Michael Kors accessible luxury line” (“MMK”), and the “Michael Kors
Mens line” (“MK Mens”). PX7098 at 9, 69; see id. at 9-10 (MMK “addresses the significant
demand opportunity in accessible luxury goods”); id. at 14 (MMK “is the accessible luxury
collection”); see also Tr. at 82:10-83:18 (Idol); id. at 1067:20-1068:2 (Mr. Kors). MMK is
responsible for almost all of Michael Kors’s handbag sales in the United States. See Tr. at
740:21-741:17 (Wilmotte: in 2023, the MK Collection made less than $10 million in revenue
from U.S. handbag sales, while MK Mens made between $10 million and $15 million;
handbag revenue for these two lines is “significantly smaller” than handbag revenue for
MMK); id. at 1110:3-11 (Edwards: in 2023, Michael Kors’s total revenue from U.S. handbag
sales was around $1.2 billion). Meanwhile, as Capri noted in an October 2023 SEC filing,
4
II. Procedural History
Capri. Tr. at 285:5-288:25 (Crevoiserat discussing PX1216 at 4); id. at 367:1-368:6 (Harris
discussing PX1175 at 1). In March 2023, Tapestry’s board of directors approved an approach
to Capri. PX1200 at 5, 7. On August 10, 2023, Tapestry and Capri signed a merger
agreement providing that Tapestry would acquire Capri for approximately $8.5 billion.
PX1014 at 1, 7; PX7175 at 1.
Following an investigation and a 5-0 approval vote by its commissioners, the FTC
sued Defendants on April 23, 2024. Compl. The next day, the Court entered the parties’
stipulated temporary restraining order, which prevented Defendants from consummating the
transaction until after the Court ruled on the FTC’s anticipated motion for a preliminary
injunction. Dkt. 16. Following an initial conference on April 29, 2024, the Court approved
the parties’ agreed-upon case-management plan and scheduling order. Dkts. 64, 71.
On May 3, 2024, Defendants moved for a more definite statement of the FTC’s market
definition or, in the alternative, for an order requiring the FTC to answer a contention
interrogatory on the issue. Dkt. 74 (brief); see also Dkts. 81 (opposition), 84 (reply). At a
hearing on May 13, 2024, the Court denied Defendants’ motion. Dkt. 88. Defendants
answered the Complaint on May 16, 2024. Tapestry Ans.; Capri Ans.
On August 6, 2024, the FTC moved for a preliminary injunction. Dkt. 122 (“Br.”).
Defendants opposed the FTC’s motion on August 20, 2024. Dkt. 159 (“Opp.”). The FTC
replied in support of its motion on August 27, 2024. Dkt. 189 (“Reply”). On August 30,
2024, the parties submitted pre-hearing proposed findings of fact and conclusions of law.
Dkts. 277, 291. On August 26, 2024, the parties cross-moved to exclude certain expert
testimony under Daubert v. Merrell Dow Pharmaceuticals, Inc., 509 U.S. 579 (1993). Dkts.
5
170, 175, 184 (notices of motion). At a hearing on September 6, 2024, the Court denied the
September 17, 2024. Across seven hearing days, the Court heard from dozens of witnesses. 1
1
Sixteen fact witnesses testified live: Peter Charles, Chief Supply Chain Officer at Tapestry,
see Tr. at 1008:16-1044:18; Joanne Crevoiserat, Chief Executive Officer (“CEO”) of
Tapestry, see id. at 258:13-358:20; Tom Edwards, Chief Financial Officer (“CFO”) and Chief
Learning Officer at Capri, see id. at 1103:2-1131:20; Elizabeth “Liz” Fraser, former CEO and
Brand President of Kate Spade, see id. at 819:15-903:7; Griffin Guez, CEO of North Star
Opco LLC and House of Pliner, see id. at 671:25-719:7; Elizabeth Harris, Senior Vice
President of Global Strategy and Consumer Insights at Tapestry, see id. at 358:22-434:2; John
Idol, CEO of Capri and Chair of its Board of Directors, see id. at 80:17-182:22; Todd Kahn,
CEO and Brand President of Coach, see id. at 434:5-502:16; Michael Kors, Founder and
Chief Creative Officer of Michael Kors, see id. at 1066:11-1102:18; Leigh Levine, President
of Coach North America, see id. at 777:18-819:13; Philippa Newman Chapuis, President of
Accessories and Footwear at Michael Kors, see id. at 182:24-242:22; Laura Parsons, Vice
President, Strategy and Transformation, at Michael Kors, see id. at 1325:5-1334:12;
Christopher Steinmann, Vice President, Divisional Merchandising Manager, at Macy’s, see id.
at 916:22-954:4; Cedric Wilmotte, CEO of Michael Kors, see id. at 732:6-777:16; Suwon
Yang, Head of Merchandising for Accessories and Leather Goods at Chanel, see id. at 655:4-
671:23; and Alice Yu, Vice President of Global Consumer Insights at Tapestry, see id. at
1183:6-1207:11.
Four individuals testified live as experts: Jeff Gennette, former Chairman and CEO of Macy’s,
qualified to testify as an industry expert in select aspects of the U.S. handbag industry,
primarily the wholesale-distribution channel, see id. at 1131:23-1183:4; Karen Giberson,
President and CEO of the Accessories Council, qualified to testify as an industry expert in the
field of handbags, see id. at 954:6-1008:13; Dr. Fiona Scott Morton, the Theodore Nierenberg
Professor of Economics at the Yale School of Management, qualified to testify as an expert in
industrial-organization economics, see id. at 1215:10-1324:16; and Dr. Loren K. Smith,
Executive Vice President at Compass Lexecon, qualified to testify as an expert in industrial-
organization economics, see id. at 515:6-654:1, 1334:14-1395:21.
During the hearing, 12 fact witnesses testified through designations of prerecorded videos of
their depositions: Ryan Armstrong, Interim Head of Global Marketing Strategy and Chief of
Staff to the Chief Marketing Officer at Ralph Lauren, see id. at 903:9-907:4; Dale Christilaw,
CFO of Kurt Geiger, see id. at 907:19-909:16; Philip Hamilton, Vice President of Global
Merchandising for Lululemon, see id. at 1056:23-1058:1; Jasmin Larian, Founder, CEO, and
Creative Director of Cult Gaia, see id. at 1056:2-1056:19; Pam Lifford, Member of Tapestry’s
Board of Directors, see id. at 502:23-504:15; Anish Melwani, Chair and CEO of LVMH, see
id. at 722:4-723:9; Rebecca Minkoff (to whom the Court will refer as “Ms. Minkoff” to avoid
confusion with the namesake brand), Chief Creative Officer of Rebecca Minkoff, see id. at
6
On September 24, 2024, the parties submitted post-hearing proposed findings of fact
and conclusions of law. Dkt. 330 at 3-73 (“PFOF”); Dkt. 330 at 73-100 (“PCOL”); Dkt. 333
at 1-70 (“DFOF”); Dkt. 333 at 71-100 (“DCOL”). The parties presented summations and
LEGAL STANDARDS
Section 7 of the Clayton Act prohibits mergers and acquisitions “where in any line of
commerce or in any activity affecting commerce in any section of the country, the effect of
Section 7, Congress provided “authority for arresting mergers at a time when the trend to a
lessening of competition in a line of commerce [i]s still in its incipiency.” Brown Shoe Co. v.
242:24-245:17; Kevin Mogyoros, Chief Operating Officer (“COO”) and CFO of MZ Wallace,
see id. at 1044:20-1049:2; Thomas Murphy, Vice President of Finance and Operations at
Longchamp USA, see id. at 1055:6-1055:25; Susan Thacker, CEO of Brahmin Leather
Works, see id. at 723:11-724:8; Sloan Tichner, President of Handbags at Steve Madden, see
id. at 1051:16-1052:13; and Ken Welch, Divisional Merchandise Manager for Handbags at
Dillard’s, see id. at 1049:4-1051:15.
The parties also jointly submitted post-hearing deposition designations on September 23,
2024, encompassing testimony from an additional 15 fact witnesses: Jennifer Avallon, Global
Head of Product Management for Tumi, see DX0952; Matt Bernson, former Senior Director
of Merchandising at Kate Spade, see PX5079; Jaryn Bloom, former Group President of North
America Retail at Michael Kors, see PX5078; Andrea Bozeman, former Vice President,
Consumer Marketing and Global CRM at Michael Kors, see PX5080; Jim Capiola, CFO and
Head of Operations at Kate Spade New York and Stuart Weitzman, as well as Leader of
Business Development and Global Environments at Tapestry, see PX5089; Christina Colone,
Global Head of Investor Relations at Tapestry, see PX5081; Jennifer Davis, Vice President,
Investor Relations and Market Intelligence at Capri, see PX5082; Deepa Gandhi, Co-Founder
and COO of Dagne Dover, see DX0950; Jennifer Lyu, Senior Vice President of Design in the
Categories of Leather Goods, Footwear, Jewelry, and Watches at Kate Spade, see DX0953;
Andrea Resnick, Chief Communications Officer at Tapestry, see PX5083; Ashley Rocha-
Rinere, Director of Strategy and Insights at Tapestry, see PX5084; Scott Roe, CFO and COO
of Tapestry, see PX5085; Tim Ryan, Head of Finance at Tapestry, see PX5086; Rae Tao,
Head of Strategy and Chief of Staff at Kate Spade, see PX5087; and Anne Walsh, President of
North America Retail at Michael Kors, see PX5088.
7
United States, 370 U.S. 294, 317 (1962). Determining whether a merger violates Section 7
therefore “requires not merely an appraisal of the immediate impact of the merger upon
competition, but a prediction of its impact upon competitive conditions in the future.” United
“to indicate that its concern was with probabilities, not certainties.” Brown Shoe, 370 U.S. at
323. “Although Section 7 requires more than a mere possibility of competitive harm, it does
not require proof of certain harm.” United States v. AT&T, Inc., 916 F.3d 1029, 1032 (D.C.
Cir. 2019) (quotation marks omitted). “Instead, the [plaintiff] must show that the proposed
reasonable probability.” Id. (emphasis and quotation marks omitted); accord Fruehauf Corp.
v. FTC, 603 F.2d 345, 351 (2d Cir. 1979); FTC v. Advoc. Health Care Network, 841 F.3d 460,
467 (7th Cir. 2016). “[T]here is certainly no requirement that the anticompetitive power
manifest itself in anticompetitive action before § 7 can be called into play. If the enforcement
thwarting such practices in their incipiency would be frustrated.” FTC v. Procter & Gamble
Co., 386 U.S. 568, 577 (1967); accord Fruehauf, 603 F.2d at 352-53; United States v. Dairy
Farmers of Am., Inc., 426 F.3d 850, 858 (6th Cir. 2005).
FTC v. Hackensack Meridian Health, Inc., 30 F.4th 160, 166 (3d Cir. 2022); accord In re
AMR Corp., No. 22-901, 2023 WL 2563897, at *2 (2d Cir. Mar. 20, 2023) (summary order)
(collecting cases); United States v. Baker Hughes Inc., 908 F.2d 981, 982-83 (D.C. Cir. 1990)
(Thomas, J., joined by R.B. Ginsburg & Sentelle, JJ.). At the first step, the plaintiff “must
establish a prima facie case that the merger is anticompetitive.” United States v. U.S. Sugar
8
Corp., 73 F.4th 197, 203 (3d Cir. 2023). To establish a prima facie case, the plaintiff must
propose a proper relevant market and show that the effects of the merger in that market will
likely be anticompetitive. Id.; FTC v. IQVIA Holdings Inc., 710 F. Supp. 3d 329, 352
(S.D.N.Y. 2024). Usually, the plaintiff demonstrates likely anticompetitive effects “by
showing that the transaction in question will significantly increase market concentration,
competition.” New York v. Deutsche Telekom AG, 439 F. Supp. 3d 179, 199 (S.D.N.Y. 2020)
(quoting Chi. Bridge & Iron Co. v. FTC, 534 F.3d 410, 423 (5th Cir. 2008)). If the plaintiff
successfully sets forth a prima facie case, “the burden shifts to the defendant to present
evidence that the prima facie case inaccurately predicts the relevant transaction’s probable
effect on future competition, or to sufficiently discredit the evidence underlying the prima
facie case.” AT&T, 916 F.3d at 1032 (quotation marks and citation omitted); accord FTC v.
Univ. Health, Inc., 938 F.2d 1206, 1218 (11th Cir. 1991). If the defendant rebuts the
plaintiff’s prima facie case, “the burden of producing additional evidence of anticompetitive
effects shifts to the [plaintiff], and merges with the ultimate burden of persuasion, which
remains with the [plaintiff] at all times.” U.S. Sugar, 73 F.4th at 204 (citation omitted).
Section 13(b) of the FTC Act authorizes the FTC to seek injunctive relief if it “has
violate, any provision of law enforced by the Federal Trade Commission” and that such relief
“would be in the interest of the public.” 15 U.S.C. § 53(b), (b)(1)-(2). “Upon a proper
showing that, weighing the equities and considering the Commission’s likelihood of ultimate
success, such action would be in the public interest, and after notice to the defendant, a
9
temporary restraining order or a preliminary injunction may be granted without bond.” Id. at
§ 53(b).
The parties differ as to what they assert that the FTC must do to establish a “likelihood
of ultimate success.” Id. The FTC, citing decades of case law, argues that it “satisfies its
burden of showing a likelihood of success on the merits if it raises serious questions about the
antitrust merits that warrant thorough investigation in the first instance by the FTC.” Br. at 7
(brackets, quotation marks, and citation omitted); see also Reply at 1-3; PCOL ¶¶ 4-9.
Defendants disagree, insisting that this interpretation “cannot be squared with the statute’s
text, has not been adopted by the Second Circuit, and is wrong under recent Supreme Court
[case] law.” Opp. at 14 (citing Starbucks Corp. v. McKinney, 144 S. Ct. 1570, 1575-76
(2024)). Defendants argue that the FTC “must make a clear showing of a likelihood of
success on the merits to obtain a preliminary injunction.” Id. (quotation marks omitted); see
also DCOL ¶¶ 2-7. The Court need not resolve this disagreement. Because the FTC prevails
under either standard, the Court assumes without deciding that the FTC “must make a clear
marks omitted).
The parties also dispute whether the relevant forum for evaluating likelihood of
success is an FTC administrative hearing, as the FTC contends, see PCOL ¶ 3 n.12, or a
federal court of appeals reviewing an FTC determination, as Defendants argue, see Opp. at
14-15; DCOL ¶ 5. Defendants, in suggesting that the federal court of appeals’ decision is the
proper focus, seemingly invite the Court to predict that the FTC will reach a result that is
unsupported by substantial evidence or contrary to law, such that a reviewing court will vacate
it. Cf. ProMedica Health Sys., Inc. v. FTC, 749 F.3d 559, 564 (6th Cir. 2014) (“We review
the Commission’s legal conclusions de novo, and its factual findings under the substantial-
10
evidence standard.”); Chi. Bridge, 534 F.3d at 422 (same). The Court is disinclined to accept
this invitation in light of the presumption of regularity, which generally requires courts to
presume that an agency has “considered all the evidence and properly discharged its duties.”
NLRB v. Newark Elec. Corp., 14 F.4th 152, 163 (2d Cir. 2021). To be sure, the presumption
of regularity does not “shield [agency] action from a thorough, probing, in-depth review.”
Citizens to Preserve Overton Park, Inc. v. Volpe, 401 U.S. 402, 415 (1971), abrogated on
other grounds by Califano v. Sanders, 430 U.S. 99, 105 (1977). But the Court sees no reason
to assume from the outset that an FTC determination will be reversed on appeal. See, e.g.,
Delta Air Lines v. Civ. Aeronautics Bd., 228 F.2d 17, 19 (D.C. Cir. 1955) (per curiam) (“We
decline to assume . . . that if the facts are established the Commission will fail to find
accordingly, or that if the facts are found the Commission will inaccurately apply the law to
them.”). In any event, the Court perceives little practical difference between the parties’
positions. Rather than parse the issue further, the Court assumes without deciding that the
standard advanced by Defendants should be applied here: that the FTC must “prove that it is
likely to succeed in convincing a federal court of appeals that the transaction violates Section
requirement, they agree that to obtain a preliminary injunction under Section 13(b), the FTC
need only show a sufficient likelihood of ultimate success and a favorable balance of the
equities. See, e.g., id. at 13; Br. at 6; PCOL ¶ 3; DCOL ¶ 2. The parties’ shared
understanding comports with numerous cases holding that in Section 13(b), Congress
proponent’s case and permit[ted] the judge to presume from a likelihood of success showing
that the public interest will be served by interim relief.” FTC v. Weyerhaeuser Co., 665 F.2d
11
1072, 1082 (D.C. Cir. 1981) (R.B. Ginsburg, J.); accord FTC v. Penn State Hershey Med.
Ctr., 838 F.3d 327, 337 (3d Cir. 2016); Univ. Health, 938 F.2d at 1217-18; FTC v. World
Travel Vacation Brokers, Inc., 861 F.2d 1020, 1029 (7th Cir. 1988); FTC v. Warner
Commc’ns Inc., 742 F.2d 1156, 1159 (9th Cir. 1984) (per curiam). The Court agrees with the
parties on this point, although – as the analysis of the equities later in this opinion makes
clear – the Court’s ultimate ruling would be the same even if it needed to make findings as to
irreparable harm and the public interest. Cf. We The Patriots USA, Inc. v. Hochul, 17 F.4th
266, 295 (2d Cir.) (per curiam) (“When the government is a party to the suit, our inquiries into
the public interest and the balance of the equities merge.”), and clarified in 17 F.4th 368 (2d
Cir 2021).
Because this case comes before the Court on a motion for a preliminary injunction, the
Court serves as the factfinder. See Univ. of Tex. v. Camenisch, 451 U.S. 390, 395 (1981);
Fed. Express Corp. v. Fed. Espresso, Inc., 201 F.3d 168, 177 (2d Cir. 2000). Thus, the Court
decides “whose testimony to credit and which of permissible inferences to draw,” regardless
inferences from other facts.” Ceraso v. Motiva Enters., LLC, 326 F.3d 303, 316 (2d Cir.
2003); see also Pope v. County of Albany, 687 F.3d 565, 581 (2d Cir. 2012) (“The question of
what weight to accord expert opinion is a matter committed to the sound discretion of the
factfinder[.]”). The Court “is also entitled, just as a jury would be, to believe some parts and
disbelieve other parts of the testimony of any given witness.” JTH Tax, LLC v. Agnant, 62
F.4th 658, 671 (2d Cir. 2023) (citation omitted). That said, the Court’s “findings of fact and
conclusions of law . . . are not binding at trial on the merits,” Camenisch, 451 U.S. at 395, and
the FTC “remains free to reach its own legal conclusions and develop its own record in its
12
As a concession to the expedited and nonfinal nature of preliminary-injunction
proceedings, the Court has at times relied on “procedures that are less formal and evidence
that is less complete than in a trial on the merits.” Camenisch, 451 U.S. at 395. For example,
both sides have submitted – and the Court has admitted – limited hearsay evidence on the
whether to grant a preliminary injunction” and that, at this stage, “[t]he admissibility of
hearsay under the Federal Rules of Evidence goes to weight, not preclusion.” Mullins v. City
of New York, 626 F.3d 47, 52 (2d Cir. 2010). Insofar as a piece of evidence contains hearsay,
or otherwise may lack indicia of reliability, the Court accounts for that fact in deciding how
much weight to assign that piece of evidence. In general, however, the Court has endeavored
to apply trial-like procedures and to examine the parties’ evidence and arguments
LIKELIHOOD OF SUCCESS
To establish a prima facie case under Section 7, a plaintiff “must (1) define a relevant
market, and (2) show that the effect of the merger in that market is likely to be
anticompetitive.” IQVIA, 710 F. Supp. 3d at 352; accord United States v. Energy Sols., Inc.,
265 F. Supp. 3d 415, 436 (D. Del. 2017). The Court addresses each element in turn.
A. Market Definition 2
merger contravenes the Clayton Act.” United States v. Marine Bancorporation, Inc., 418 U.S.
2
Generally, the standards for determining a relevant market “are the same under the various
antitrust statutes, and courts routinely rely on cases decided under one statute when deciding
cases under the other statutes.” M. Howard Morse, Product Market Definition in the
Pharmaceutical Industry, 71 Antitrust L.J. 633, 655 (2003); accord In re AMR Corp., 527
B.R. 874, 883 n.7 (Bankr. S.D.N.Y. 2015). Indeed, the Supreme Court has stated that there is
13
602, 618 (1974) (quotation marks omitted); accord FTC v. Sysco Corp., 113 F. Supp. 3d 1, 24
(D.D.C. 2015) (“Merger analysis starts with defining the relevant market.”). That is because
the Clayton Act addresses mergers and acquisitions whose effect “may be substantially to
only in terms of the market affected,” United States v. E.I. du Pont de Nemours & Co., 353
F.3d 260, 268 (8th Cir. 1995). Therefore, market definition “is of critical significance” in
Section 7 cases. Stanley Works v. FTC, 469 F.2d 498, 500 (2d Cir. 1972); accord United
States v. H & R Block, Inc., 833 F. Supp. 2d 36, 50 (D.D.C. 2011) (“Defining the relevant
market is critical in an antitrust case because the legality of the proposed merger in question
almost always depends upon the market power of the parties involved.” (brackets and citation
omitted)).
“For antitrust purposes, the concept of a market has two components: a product market
and a geographic market.” Concord Assocs., L.P. v. Ent. Props. Tr., 817 F.3d 46, 52 (2d Cir.
2016); accord United States v. Bertelsmann SE & Co., 646 F. Supp. 3d 1, 24 (D.D.C. 2022);
U.S. Dep’t of Just. & Fed. Trade Comm’n, Merger Guidelines § 4.3 (2023) (the “2023 Merger
Guidelines” or the “Guidelines”). 3 Here, the parties agree that the relevant geographic market
“no reason to differentiate between ‘line’ of commerce in the context of the Clayton Act and
‘part’ of commerce for purposes of the Sherman Act.” United States v. Grinnell Corp., 384
U.S. 563, 573 (1966). Therefore, as appropriate, the Court relies on discussions of market
definition in cases under antitrust statutes other than the Clayton Act.
3
In this opinion, the Court considers statements in the 2023 Merger Guidelines to the extent
that the Court finds them persuasive – recognizing, of course, that the Guidelines are
nonbinding. See, e.g., AMR, 2023 WL 2563897, at *3 n.2 (“Plaintiffs also criticize the
bankruptcy court for citing the Department of Justice’s Horizontal Merger Guidelines. But
the bankruptcy court specifically noted that the Guidelines were not binding and that it was
14
is the United States. See Br. at 19-20; Opp. at 5 n.1; Tr. at 533:6-9 (Smith); id. at 1287:23-
1288:1 (Scott Morton). But they fiercely dispute the relevant product market. Before
addressing the parties’ arguments, the Court reviews some important doctrine.
“A ‘relevant product market’ is a term of art in antitrust analysis.” H & R Block, 833
F. Supp. 2d at 50. It “consists of products that have reasonable interchangeability for the
purposes for which they are produced – price, use[,] and qualities considered.” Concord, 817
F.3d at 52 (quotation marks omitted); accord United States v. Visa U.S.A., Inc., 163 F. Supp.
consulting them only as a helpful tool – as courts have repeatedly deemed appropriate.”
(quotation marks and citations omitted)). The persuasiveness of a statement in the Guidelines,
as with any agency pronouncement, “will depend upon the thoroughness evident in its
consideration, the validity of its reasoning, its consistency with earlier and later
pronouncements, and all those factors which give it power to persuade, if lacking power to
control.” Skidmore v. Swift & Co., 323 U.S. 134, 140 (1944); see County of Maui v. Haw.
Wildlife Fund, 590 U.S. 165, 180 (2020) (“[W]e often pay particular attention to an agency’s
views in light of the agency’s expertise in a given area, its knowledge gained through practical
experience, and its familiarity with the interpretive demands of administrative need.”).
Defendants assert that as of August 20, 2024 (when they filed their opposition brief), “[n]o
court has cited” the 2023 Merger Guidelines “as persuasive authority.” Opp. at 33 n.82. This
claim is incorrect. See, e.g., FTC v. Cmty. Health Sys., Inc., --- F. Supp. 3d ----, 2024 WL
2854690, at *20, *22 (W.D.N.C. June 5, 2024), vacated as moot sub nom. FTC v. Novant
Health, Inc., No. 24-1526, 2024 WL 3561941 (4th Cir. July 24, 2024); Tevra Brands LLC v.
Bayer HealthCare LLC, No. 19-cv-04312, 2024 WL 1909156, at *3, *5, *7 (N.D. Cal. May 1,
2024); see also In re Payment Card Interchange Fee & Merch. Disc. Antitrust Litig., -- F.
Supp. 3d ---, 2024 WL 1556931, at *13 & n.14 (E.D.N.Y. Apr. 10, 2024) (relying on
Herfindahl-Hirschman Index thresholds from a U.S. Department of Justice webpage that, in
turn, cites the 2023 Merger Guidelines); cf. Herfindahl-Hirschman Index, U.S. Dep’t of Just.
(Jan. 17, 2024), https://www.justice.gov/atr/herfindahl-hirschman-index
[https://perma.cc/C5DM-76T8]. Even if this claim were true, it would not surprise or trouble
the Court. After all, the Department of Justice and the FTC did not finalize the 2023 Merger
Guidelines until December 18, 2023, less than a year ago. See Federal Trade Commission
and Justice Department Release 2023 Merger Guidelines, FTC (Dec. 18, 2023),
https://www.ftc.gov/news-events/news/press-releases/2023/12/federal-trade-commission-
justice-department-release-2023-merger-guidelines [https://perma.cc/7WGR-MRLZ]; see also
IQVIA, 710 F. Supp. 3d at 368 n.19 (focusing on the 2010 Merger Guidelines because the
2023 Merger Guidelines were not issued until “after briefing and argument in this case had
concluded”); United States v. JetBlue Airways Corp., 712 F. Supp. 3d 109, 151 n.51 (D. Mass.
2024) (similar), appeal dismissed, No. 24-1092, 2024 WL 3491184 (1st Cir. Mar. 5, 2024).
15
2d 322, 335 (S.D.N.Y. 2001) (“A relevant product market is composed of products that have
reasonable interchangeability, in the eyes of consumers, with what the defendant sells.”
(quotation marks omitted)), aff’d, 344 F.3d 229 (2d Cir. 2003). Reasonable interchangeability
is often analyzed using the concept of cross-elasticity of demand, see, e.g., Brown Shoe, 370
U.S. at 325, which “refers to the change in the demand by consumers for one product as a
result of a change in the price of another product,” Hayden Publ’g Co. v. Cox Broad. Corp.,
730 F.2d 64, 70 n.9 (2d Cir. 1984). “Two products are reasonably interchangeable where
there is sufficient cross-elasticity of demand – that is, where consumers would respond to a
slight increase in the price of one product by switching to another product.” Regeneron
Pharms., Inc. v. Novartis Pharma AG, 96 F.4th 327, 339 (2d Cir. 2024) (quotation marks
omitted). “This analytical approach guides antitrust courts in attempting to answer one key
question: whether particular products are sufficiently close substitutes such that substitution to
one could constrain any anticompetitive pricing in the other.” United States v. Aetna Inc., 240
“[W]ithin [a] broad market, well-defined submarkets may exist which, in themselves,
constitute product markets for antitrust purposes.” Brown Shoe, 370 U.S. at 325. Under what
is known as the “narrowest market principle,” a court usually must “identify the narrowest
market within which the defendant companies compete that qualifies as a relevant product
market.” IQVIA, 710 F. Supp. 3d at 353 (citation omitted); accord Aetna, 240 F. Supp. 3d at
40. “The prospective merger’s likely competitive effects on that market will determine its
legality.” FTC v. Peabody Energy Corp., 492 F. Supp. 3d 865, 886 (E.D. Mo. 2020). “[E]ven
if alternative submarkets exist . . . , or if there are broader markets that might be analyzed, the
viability of such additional markets does not render the one identified by the [plaintiff]
unusable.” Bertelsmann, 646 F. Supp. 3d at 28; accord Phillip E. Areeda & Herbert
16
Hovenkamp, Antitrust Law: An Analysis of Antitrust Principles and Their Application ¶ 929d,
Lexis (database updated Sept. 2024) (“Areeda & Hovenkamp”) (“The ‘line of commerce’
language of § 7 of the Clayton Act, and the general principles of merger policy, require the
[plaintiff] to identify some grouping of sales that constitutes a relevant market in which prices
might rise as a consequence of the merger. That a larger or smaller grouping of sales might
also constitute a market is beside the point.”); Tr. at 1290:21-25 (Scott Morton agreeing that
“there can be more than one relevant product market for evaluating a given transaction,” and
that, “[i]n fact, there usually is” more than one). Thus, “the mere fact that a firm may be
termed a competitor in the overall marketplace does not necessarily require that it be included
in the relevant product market for antitrust purposes.” Deutsche Telekom, 439 F. Supp. 3d at
200 (citation omitted); accord FTC v. Surescripts, LLC, 665 F. Supp. 3d 14, 35 (D.D.C.
2023); United States v. Anthem, Inc., 236 F. Supp. 3d 171, 195 (D.D.C.), aff’d, 855 F.3d 345
proposed market. See, e.g., Regeneron, 96 F.4th at 339; Hackensack, 30 F.4th at 167; FTC v.
Sanford Health, 926 F.3d 959, 963 (8th Cir. 2019); 2023 Merger Guidelines § 4.3.A; accord
Tr. at 529:5-15 (Smith); id. at 1255:23-1256:10 (Scott Morton). The HMT asks “whether a
hypothetical monopolist acting within the proposed market would be substantially constrained
from increasing prices by the ability of customers to switch to other producers.” United States
v. Am. Express Co., 838 F.3d 179, 198 (2d Cir. 2016) (“AmEx I”) (brackets and quotation
marks omitted), aff’d sub nom. Ohio v. Am. Express Co., 585 U.S. 529 (2018) (“AmEx II”).
Implementing the HMT requires “imagining that a hypothetical monopolist has imposed a
small but significant non-transitory increase in price (‘SSNIP’) within the proposed market.”
Id. at 199. The usual practice is to define the SSNIP as a five-percent increase in price. See,
17
e.g., Hackensack, 30 F.4th at 169; H & R Block, 833 F. Supp. 2d at 52; 2023 Merger
Guidelines § 4.3.B; Tr. at 529:13-15 (Smith). “If the hypothetical monopolist can impose this
SSNIP without losing so many sales to other products as to render the SSNIP unprofitable,
then the proposed market is the relevant market. By contrast, if consumers are able and
inclined to switch away from the products in the proposed market in sufficiently high numbers
to render the SSNIP unprofitable, then the proposed market definition is likely too narrow and
should be expanded.” AmEx I, 838 F.3d at 199; accord Optronic Techs., Inc. v. Ningbo Sunny
“Hard data concerning cross-elasticity is not the only means of proving a relevant
market.” Emigra Grp., LLC v. Fragomen, Del Rey, Bernsen & Lowey, LLP, 612 F. Supp. 2d
330, 355 (S.D.N.Y. 2009); see, e.g., U.S. Sugar, 73 F.4th at 206 (“The District Court did not
err by considering facts on the ground rather than relying upon HMT analysis.”); McWane,
Inc. v. FTC, 783 F.3d 814, 829 (11th Cir. 2015) (rejecting the contention that “the expert’s
analysis [of the product market] was insufficient because it did not involve an econometric
analysis”; explaining that “there appears to be no support in the caselaw for [the] claim that
such a technical analysis is always required,” and that “courts routinely rely on qualitative
economic evidence to define relevant markets” (original brackets and citation omitted)).
Courts “often look to ‘practical indicia’ of market boundaries to identify whether two products
are economic substitutes and compete within the same antitrust market.” Regeneron, 96 F.4th
at 339 (quoting Brown Shoe, 370 U.S. at 325); accord FTC v. Meta Platforms Inc., 654 F.
4
The 2023 Merger Guidelines now refer to a “small but significant and nontransitory increase
in price or worsening of terms,” or an “SSNIPT.” Merger Guidelines § 4.3.A. To conform
with the majority of caselaw which refers to an SSNIP, the Court uses that term, noting that
there is no relevant analytical difference when conducting the HMT with reference to an
SSNIP or an SSNIPT.
18
Supp. 3d 892, 912 (N.D. Cal. 2023) (“There is no requirement to use any specific
methodology in defining the relevant market,” and “courts have determined relevant antitrust
markets using, for example, only the Brown Shoe factors, or a combination of the Brown Shoe
factors and the HMT.” (quotation marks omitted)); FTC v. Staples, Inc., 190 F. Supp. 3d 100,
118 (D.D.C. 2016) (“Staples II”) (“Courts routinely rely on the Brown Shoe factors to define
the relevant product market.”). These indicia, known as the Brown Shoe factors, include
“industry or public recognition of the submarket as a separate economic entity, the product’s
peculiar characteristics and uses, unique production facilities, distinct customers, distinct
prices, sensitivity to price changes, and specialized vendors.” 370 U.S. at 325. “This list is
neither mandatory nor exhaustive. That is, ‘the presence of some, and absence of others, is
not dispositive.’” Alaska Elec. Pension Fund v. Bank of Am. Corp., 306 F. Supp. 3d 610, 620
(S.D.N.Y. 2018) (quoting Se. Mo. Hosp. v. C.R. Bard, Inc., 642 F.3d 608, 614 (8th Cir.
2011)); accord IQVIA, 710 F. Supp. 3d at 355 (“All the [Brown Shoe] factors need not be
satisfied for the Court to conclude that the [plaintiff] has identified a relevant market.”).
deeply fact-intensive inquiry,” Todd v. Exxon Corp., 275 F.3d 191, 199 (2d Cir. 2001)
(Sotomayor, J.), requiring attention to “the commercial realities of the industry,” Brown Shoe,
370 U.S. at 336 (footnote and quotation marks omitted). “Whatever the market urged by the
plaintiff or the defendant, the other party can usually contend plausibly that something
relevant was left out, that too much was included, or that dividing lines between inclusion and
exclusion were arbitrary.” Areeda & Hovenkamp ¶ 530d. “The Supreme Court has wisely
recognized there is ‘some artificiality’ in any boundaries, but that ‘such fuzziness’ is inherent
in bounding any market.” Id. (quoting Phila. Nat’l Bank, 374 U.S. at 360 n.37); accord
Bertelsmann, 646 F. Supp. 3d at 33; FTC v. Tronox Ltd., 332 F. Supp. 3d 187, 202 (D.D.C.
19
2018); 2023 Merger Guidelines § 4.3. This concession to the nature of legal categories is not
a license for “absurd market definition[s],” Isr. Travel Advisory Serv., Inc. v. Isr. Identity
Tours, Inc., 61 F.3d 1250, 1252 (7th Cir. 1995), and “[n]o party,” plaintiff or defendant, “can
expect to gerrymander its way to an antitrust victory without due regard for market realities,”
It’s My Party, Inc. v. Live Nation, Inc., 811 F.3d 676, 683 (4th Cir. 2016). But it bears
emphasis that Congress “prescribed a pragmatic, factual approach to the definition of the
relevant market and not a formal, legalistic one.” Brown Shoe, 370 U.S. at 336. This choice
reflects that “[t]he ‘market,’ as [is true of] most concepts in law or economics, cannot be
measured by metes and bounds,” and “[i]ndustrial activities cannot be confined to trim
categories.” United States v. Cont’l Can Co., 378 U.S. 441, 456 (1964) (first alteration in
original) (citations omitted); accord New York v. Kraft Gen. Foods, Inc., 926 F. Supp. 321,
360 (S.D.N.Y. 1995) (“The market ‘need not – indeed cannot – be defined with scientific
precision.’” (quoting United States v. Conn. Nat’l Bank, 418 U.S. 656, 669 (1974))).
The FTC argues that “‘accessible luxury’ handbags constitute a relevant product
market.” PCOL ¶ 41. This concept has two components: “accessible luxury” and
bags used for carrying personal items and money and have handles or a strap and are designed
to be held in the hand or worn over the shoulder.” PFOF ¶ 25; see also Dkt. 277 at 3 ¶ 18
(same definition in the FTC’s pre-hearing proposed findings of fact); Smith Rep. ¶ 30 (same
definition). The Court – having considered the testimony and documentary evidence in the
record, as well as the dozens of handbags that Defendants carted into the courtroom as
The central dispute concerns the FTC’s claim that within this broader market of
handbags are three distinct submarkets: “mass market” (also identified using terms such as
20
“fast fashion” or “opening price point”), “accessible luxury” (also identified using terms such
as “affordable luxury”), and “true luxury” (also identified using terms such as “luxury,” “pure
European luxury”). PFOF ¶¶ 47, 61, 116, 132; Tr. at 24:20-23 (FTC Opening). The FTC
argues that mass-market handbags and true-luxury handbags are not reasonably
interchangeable with accessible-luxury handbags and therefore are not part of the relevant
Defendants disagree. In their view, the FTC’s theory of the case is “completely
divorced from the marketplace realities.” Opp. at 1. Defendants dispute that there is any such
thing as “accessible luxury,” arguing instead that the FTC’s market definition is no more than
“a very artificially curated selection of handbag brands” and “an exercise in gerrymandering.”
is a generalized concept rather than a separate relevant market,” DFOF ¶ 91, and all handbags
should be considered together as part of a single, undifferentiated market, see Opp. at 21-26.
The Court thus embarks on assessing the FTC’s proposed relevant product market of
accessible-luxury handbags. The Court will first address the qualitative evidence relating to
market definition before turning to the quantitative evidence. See IQVIA, 710 F. Supp. 3d at
354 n.13 (“There is no uniform sequence in which courts approach th[e] analysis [of the
relevant product market].”). As explained below, under either approach, the Court finds that
1. Qualitative Analysis
The Court prefaces its Brown Shoe analysis with two observations.
true-luxury handbags. One can carry a wallet, a phone, or a personal item in a Trader Joe’s
21
tote bag just as effectively as in an Hermès Birkin. Cf. Tr. at 468:20-21 (Kahn); id. at 966:7-8
depending on the facts of the case.” FTC v. Lundbeck, Inc., 650 F.3d 1236, 1241 (8th Cir.
2011). This is because “even if two products are functionally fungible, consumers may still
view them as not reasonably interchangeable – that is, consumers do not treat them as
No. 11-cv-01755, 2015 WL 6082122, at *4 (N.D. Ohio Sept. 30, 2015); accord Regeneron,
96 F.4th at 338-41; Sysco, 113 F. Supp. 3d at 26; see Visa, 163 F. Supp. 2d at 335 (examining
omitted)).
Therefore, even where two products are functionally interchangeable for most (or even
all) purposes, they may nonetheless be divisible into separate product markets. For instance,
“Chevrolets and Fords might be interchangeable . . . , but Chevrolets and Lamborghinis are
probably not.” ProMedica, 749 F.3d at 565. As an even starker example, the Second Circuit
has held that brand-name and generic versions of prescription drugs may constitute distinct
antitrust markets, even though they are chemically and therapeutically equivalent. See
Geneva Pharms. Tech. Corp. v. Barr Lab’ys Inc., 386 F.3d 485, 496-99 (2d Cir. 2004); see
also, e.g., Regeneron, 96 F.4th at 340 (“The fact that vials and [prefilled syringes] contain the
same medicines and treat the same condition does not automatically mean that they compete
in the same market.”); Henry v. Chloride, Inc., 809 F.2d 1334, 1342-43 (8th Cir. 1987)
(sufficient evidence for jury to find that batteries sold through route trucks were in a separate
market from identical batteries sold through warehouses); United States v. Empire Gas Corp.,
537 F.2d 296, 303-04 (8th Cir. 1976) (liquified petroleum (“LP”) was a relevant product
market even though “wood, coal, fuel oil, natural gas[,] and electricity are all functionally
22
interchangeable to a considerable degree with LP in some or all of its major uses”; because of
their “inferior qualities,” wood, coal, and fuel oil did not have a high cross-elasticity of
demand with LP; conversely, natural gas and electricity were “comparable and perhaps even
superior to” LP in quality, but a low cross-elasticity of supply kept them in a different product
market); FTC v. Syngenta Crop Prot. AG, 711 F. Supp. 3d 545, 557, 565, 569 (M.D.N.C.
2024) (accepting market definition based on particular active ingredients used in pesticides,
even though market definition excluded some products that had similar uses denoted by their
EPA label registrations; “The EPA registrations may be probative of interchangeability, but
they appear to speak to interchangeable function, not whether and how these [pesticides] are
970 F. Supp. 1066, 1075, 1080 (D.D.C. 1997) (“Staples I”) (“The Court recognizes that it is
difficult to overcome the first blush or initial gut reaction of many people to the definition of
the relevant product market as the sale of consumable office supplies through office supply
superstores. The products in question are undeniably the same no matter who sells them, and
no one denies that many different types of retailers sell these products”; nonetheless, “the sale
of consumable office supplies through office supply superstores is the appropriate relevant
product market for purposes of considering the possible anti-competitive effects of the
proposed merger between Staples and Office Depot.”). Thus, the fact that a $50 polyurethane
bag may look and function similarly to a $500 leather bag does not dispose of the market-
definition analysis.
It may be true that, without knowing its brand, someone may not know with certainty
whether a particular handbag is mass market, accessible luxury, or true luxury. Cf. Tr. at
64:1-9 (Tapestry Opening). But the evidence presented made clear to the Court that brand is a
fundamental attribute of a handbag; one cannot ignore it any more than one could ignore the
23
brand of the prescription drug in Geneva in defining the separate markets of two chemically
identical substances. See 386 F.3d at 496-99. Defendants only selectively acknowledge the
importance of brands in the handbag industry. On the one hand, Defendants insist that Dr.
Smith’s reliance on brand surveys is flawed because “[c]onsumers do not purchase brands.
They purchase particular handbags.” DFOF ¶ 129. On the other hand, Defendants’ entire
argument about the revitalization of Michael Kors’s “brand heat,” see DFOF ¶ 6, presupposes
that consumers base their purchasing decisions, to a significant extent, on their perceptions of
the bag’s brand. Defendants cannot have it both ways. In the Court’s view, the conclusion
most consonant with the evidence is that handbag consumers do “purchase brands.” To
ignore the peculiar role of brands in the handbag market would be to ignore the commercial
Second, the FTC’s market definition relies on the premise that higher-quality, higher-
priced products may constitute a separate market than lower-quality, lower-priced products.
Brown Shoe acknowledged that “‘price/quality’ differences, where they exist, . . . may be of
importance in determining the likely effect of a merger,” although it affirmed the district
court’s factual finding in that particular case that a division between “medium-priced shoes”
and “low-priced shoes” was unwarranted on the evidence before it. 370 U.S. at 326. In other
cases, with different factual records, courts have recognized that price and quality differences
may play an important role in defining market boundaries where such tiering comports with
commercial realities. See, e.g., Int’l Boxing Club of N.Y., Inc. v. United States, 358 U.S. 242,
250-52 (1959) (affirming district court’s finding that “there exists a ‘separate, identifiable
omitted)); Syufy Enters. v. Am. Multicinema, Inc., 793 F.2d 990, 994-95 (9th Cir. 1986)
(affirming jury’s finding that “industry anticipated top-grossing films constitute a distinct
24
product market”); A.G. Spalding & Bros. v. FTC, 301 F.2d 585, 598 (3d Cir. 1962) (affirming
FTC’s finding that “higher priced and low priced categories [of sporting goods] can be
distinguished competitively from each other and that they constitute separate and distinct lines
market definition of “anticipated top-selling books” as “consistent with cases in which courts
have recognized the ‘high end’ of other broad markets as distinct submarkets for antitrust
purposes”); Le v. Zuffa, LLC, 216 F. Supp. 3d 1154, 1165-67 (D. Nev. 2016) (accepting
market definitions of “live Elite Professional MMA bouts” and “live Elite Professional MMA
Fighter services” as separate from non-elite bouts and fighters (quotation marks omitted));
FTC v. Lancaster Colony Corp., 434 F. Supp. 1088, 1093 (S.D.N.Y. 1977) (“Plainly, low or
moderately-priced glassware, intended for everyday use, differs from fine glassware, such as
lead crystal, sold at higher prices and marketed through different channels.”). To be sure, if
the factual record does not justify such distinctions – if “the differences are actually a
spectrum of price and quality differences” within an otherwise indivisible market – then
gradations based solely on price and quality will not be “sufficient to establish separate
relevant markets.” In re Super Premium Ice Cream Distrib. Antitrust Litig., 691 F. Supp.
1262, 1268 (N.D. Cal. 1988) (collecting cases), aff’d, 895 F.2d 1417 (9th Cir. 1990)
(unpublished table decision); see also Opp. at 27 & n.73; DCOL ¶ 36. But this is a question
of fact, not a question of law. See Geneva, 386 F.3d at 497 (“In Brown Shoe, . . . the Court
simply clarified that a price differential alone should not override observed market
conditions.”); see also Eastman Kodak Co. v. Image Tech. Servs., Inc., 504 U.S. 451, 466-67
(1992) (“Legal presumptions that rest on formalistic distinctions rather than actual market
realities are generally disfavored in antitrust law. This Court has preferred to resolve antitrust
25
Spade handbags); id. at 1091:2-12 (Mr. Kors listing nonleather materials that he has used “at
one point or another” for MMK handbags). And some mass-market handbags are made of
leather. See, e.g., Tr. at 983:1-11 (Giberson discussing a Patricia Nash handbag). It is also
true that some true-luxury handbags are not made of leather, like some Prada bags made of
nylon and Louis Vuitton bags made primarily of coated canvas. See, e.g., Tr. at 973:19-974:8
(Giberson).
But when describing a product market, the existence of some exceptions to a general
trait does not require a court to disregard that trait altogether. Indeed, courts routinely
describe product markets using language that admits of exceptions. See, e.g., Geneva, 386
F.3d at 498 (“Plaintiffs also offered evidence that Coumadin has been marketed primarily to
physicians, while generics target wholesalers and chain pharmacies.” (emphasis added));
Spalding, 301 F.2d at 598 (“[T]he citation of a few examples of variations from the general
pattern hardly constitutes a persuasive argument that the Commission erred in interpreting
AGMA price classifications as defining the higher priced categories as lines of commerce.”
(emphasis added) (footnote omitted)); Meta, 654 F. Supp. 3d at 918 (“The pricing of VR
dedicated fitness apps likewise differs in at least one key respect from other VR apps and non-
VR fitness offerings. The main difference in comparison to the former category is that VR
dedicated fitness apps are more likely to have a subscription-based pricing model.” (emphasis
added)); Bertelsmann, 646 F. Supp. 3d at 30 (“[C]ontracts for books that are expected to sell
well are more likely to include favorable terms like higher royalty rates, higher levels of
marketing support, ‘glam’ packages . . . , and airfare for authors.” (emphasis added)); Sysco,
113 F. Supp. 3d at 20 (“[S]treet customers usually do not have written contracts with
broadliners; instead, they negotiate prices on a weekly or other short term basis. They also
tend to diversify their purchases among multiple distribution channels.” (emphases added));
28
United States v. Bazaarvoice, Inc., No. 13-cv-00133, 2014 WL 203966, at *45 (N.D. Cal. Jan.
8, 2014) (“While some eCommerce platforms may offer some basic R & R functionality, they
generally lack the features necessary to serve as a substitute for the R & R platforms offered
(“[W]hile defendants[] have identified isolated instances in which assisted product offerings
are priced lower than the average prices for typical assisted products, they do not and cannot
demonstrate that this is generally the case.” (emphases added)); Staples I, 970 F. Supp. at
1078 (“While the Court accepts that some small businesses with fewer than 20 employees as
well as home office customers do choose other sellers of office supplies, the superstores’
customers are different from those of many of the purported competitors.” (emphases added)).
So too here. While the existence of exceptions in the various categories leads the Court to
attribute less weight to the peculiar-characteristic factor than it would otherwise, the Court
finds that the factor still weighs in favor of a distinct mid-tier market under Brown Shoe.
email to colleagues, “our supply chain innovation over the years effectively created the
accessible luxury market – balancing lower cost with quality well made product.” PX1704 at
1; see also Tr. at 298:14-300:3 (Crevoiserat discussing PX1731 at 48, a strategy document
5
Defendants argue that this description of Tapestry’s supply chain cannot be “generalized
across any purported accessible luxury market.” DFOF ¶ 97. The Court disagrees.
Defendants cite testimony by Peter Charles, Tapestry’s chief supply-chain officer, that
Tapestry’s supply chain is superior to that of other brands, including Michael Kors and Tory
Burch. See id.; Tr. at 1027:8-1028:3, 1030:11-1031:2 (Charles). Even if the Court credits
Charles’s self-serving opinion that his employer has a significantly better supply chain than
29
years.” Tr. at 1022:4-12 (Charles). For instance, Simone – a manufacturer with its
headquarters in South Korea and factories in Vietnam, Cambodia, and Indonesia – has made
handbags for Tapestry for over 20 years. Id. at 200:7-8 (Newman); id. at 1039:25-1040:5,
PX8168 at 41:20-42:03
; accord PX1354 at 4, 7 (Tapestry October 2023 slide deck about Simone: “High
capacity and capability – producing all Leather product groups”; “Experienced and stable
PX5077
at 218:24-221:20
have followed” its example. Tr. at 299:11-300:3, 338:14-17 (Crevoiserat). For instance,
nearly all Michael Kors products are made by third-party contractors in Asia, with Simone
serving as the largest manufacturer of Michael Kors handbags. Id. at 82:1-6 (Idol); id. at
manufacturing facilities in Vietnam, Coach and Michael Kors handbags sometimes are being
manufactured “in adjacent buildings or lines”). Tory Burch also uses third-party contractors
in Asia, including Simone. Tr. at 1040:11-13 (Charles); Smith Rep. ¶ 126 & n.240.
. Some Southeast Asian manufacturers that make bags for Tapestry also make bags for
Cole Haan, Marc Jacobs, and Ralph Lauren, other accessible-luxury-handbag brands. Tr. at
31
1018:5-12, 1018:24-1019:5 (Charles); accord PX8170 at 126:06-126:11
; PX8172 at 35:10-14,
40:07-40:18
14.
DX0926 at 83:21-84:03 .
DX0950 at 93:23-94:02 .
that Peter Charles, Tapestry’s chief supply-chain officer, forwarded to Joanne Crevoiserat,
Tapestry’s CEO, “[t]rue luxury and affordable luxury supply chains are fundamentally
handbags are made in European countries such as France and Italy, with little (if any)
manufacturing presence in Asia. Tr. at 464:3-9 (Kahn: European brands do not rely on Asian
6
During cross-examination by the FTC, Charles acknowledged that BCG provides consulting
services to Tapestry “for a variety of different projects and reasons.” Tr. at 1039:3-9. On
redirect, Charles tried to downplay this slide deck’s significance, stating that it was not
something that he “instructed BCG to provide,” that BCG simply was “fishing for business”
by “giv[ing Charles] a perspective from their point of view on the market,” and that Charles
“felt that it was important to share that [this slide deck] with Joanne [Crevoiserat] just because
it’s broader context for her.” Id. at 1043:2-12. The Court does not find this redirect testimony
persuasive. The fact that Charles forwarded the BCG slide deck to his CEO – describing it, in
the accompanying email, as something that “the BCG European based luxury team presented
to [him a] couple of weeks ago,” and that provided “useful context and a good reminder
around luxury’s SC organizing principles and main characteristics” – suggests that he
believed its contents to be reliable. PX1327 at 1; see Tr. at 1034:5-7 (Charles: “SC” means
“supply chain”).
32
manufacturing to the same extent as Coach or Michael Kors); id. at 680:21-681:1 (Guez: true-
luxury handbags are manufactured “[l]argely in Europe”); PX1327 at 9 (BCG: true luxury is
“[p]redominantly [m]ade in France & Italy”); Smith Rep. ¶ 153. For instance, Chanel makes
its handbags in France and Italy. Tr. at 657:14-16 (Yang); PX4002 ¶ 3 (Yang).
PX8172 at 35:07-35:09
PX8170 at 45:11-45:20, 51:02-51:04 ; see also, e.g., Tr. at 1092:9-11 (Mr. Kors:
MK Collection is made in Italy); PX7098 at 15-16 (Capri SEC filing in May 2023: “The vast
elsewhere in Europe and a small portion is produced in Asia or North Africa. . . . Most of
Jimmy Choo’s products are produced by specialists in Italy, supported by other factories
across Europe, with a small portion produced in Asia.”). True-luxury brands are also less
reliant on third-party manufacturers. Brands such as Chanel, Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Fendi,
and Louis Vuitton have vertically integrated at least some of their handbag manufacturing.
To be sure, some true-luxury brands have handbags made in Southeast Asia. See, e.g.,
Tr. at 1019:9-15 (Charles: Alexander Wang, Balenciaga, Prada, and Burberry manufacture
some handbags in Southeast Asia). But it is unclear how many handbags these brands make
in Southeast Asia, and no witness provided such an estimate. Moreover, as noted previously,
the existence of some exceptions to the general rule does not defeat a finding that products
33
Defendants also contend that “consumers do not view manufacturing location as a
meaningful distinction.” Opp. at 23; see also Tr. at 65:12-17 (Tapestry opening). Yet
Defendants do not cite (and the Court has not found) any case holding that the distinct-
factor – weighs in favor of a market definition only if consumers recognize that firms in the
proposed market use distinct production facilities. On the contrary, courts have found that a
product market has unique production facilities without ever referring to consumers’
knowledge about those facilities. See, e.g., Gen. Foods Corp. v. FTC, 386 F.2d 936, 943 (3d
Cir. 1967) (affirming FTC’s finding that “the equipment used for the production of steel wool
is distinct from, and lacks any similarity to, the facilities required to manufacture the other
cleaning devices that [the merged entity] contends should be included in the relevant market,”
with no mention of consumer recognition of that fact); Peabody, 492 F. Supp. 3d at 900-01
(finding that “coal mines and related processing facilities” were unique production facilities
that supported finding that Southern Powder River Basin coal was a distinct product market
In sum, the Court finds that accessible-luxury handbags have unique production
c. Distinct Prices
Although it is generally true that “a price differential alone is insufficient to infer two
separate product markets,” HDC Med., Inc. v. Minntech Corp., 474 F.3d 543, 547 (8th Cir.
2007), “the Supreme Court has held that a substantial price difference, along with other
factors, can bear on definition of the product market,” Lenox MacLaren Surgical Corp. v.
Medtronic, Inc., 762 F.3d 1114, 1122 (10th Cir. 2014); see, e.g., United States v. Aluminum
34
Co. of Am., 377 U.S. 271, 277 (1964) (“Alcoa”) (“[T]he price differential [between aluminum
conductor and copper conductor products] further sets them apart [as distinct product
markets].”); Geneva, 386 F.3d at 497 (“Here we find a substantial gap in pricing [of
Coumadin and generic warfarin] indicative of separate markets.”). Although this Brown Shoe
factor often focuses on the amount that consumers pay, it can also encompass the use of
distinctive pricing models. See, e.g., Meta, 654 F. Supp. 3d at 918-19 (“VR dedicated fitness
apps are more likely [than other VR apps and non-VR fitness apps] to have a subscription-
based pricing model,” which weighs “in favor of the existence of a VR dedicated fitness app
market,” although the existence of some exceptions means that “the overall weight of this
factor is lessened.”).
In the handbag industry, there are two common ways of describing a handbag’s price:
the manufacturer’s suggested retail price (the “MSRP” or the “ticket price”) and the average
unit retail price (the “AUR” or the “out-the-door price”). MSRP and AUR can – and, for
promotions. Tr. at 161:14-162:9 (Idol); id. at 450:14-451:3 (Kahn); id. at 800:8-14 (Levine).
In other words, “AUR is the price the consumer actually pays when they purchase the
The extent of the gap between MSRP and AUR often depends on where the handbag is
sold (such as at a brand’s full-price store, at a brand’s outlet store, on a brand’s website, or by
7
Meanwhile, the “wholesale price” is the sub-MSRP price that wholesalers like Macy’s and
Dillard’s pay to handbag brands for their products. Tr. at 162:5-9 (Idol). Wholesalers then
decide how much to charge consumers, with any difference between the AUR and the
wholesale price accruing to the wholesaler as profit. Id. at 162:5-9 (Idol); id. at 919:17-19,
935:7-17 (Steinmann). The pricing discretion generally afforded to handbag wholesalers is
why, for those wholesalers, the MSRP is very much a suggested retail price, although they
may choose to honor it. See id. at 935:16-17 (Steinmann: “Suppliers suggest prices. We
choose to accept or not accept prices.”).
35
a third-party wholesaler such as Macy’s or Dillard’s). Although some handbags sold through
discounted, see, e.g., id. at 779:24-780:6 (Levine: during the past three to four years, Coach
has worked to “reduce its discounts” in its “full price channel”); id. at 935:18-20 (Steinmann:
Macy’s discounts some handbags that it sells), handbags sold at outlets are more frequently
and more heavily discounted than handbags sold elsewhere, see, e.g., Scott Morton Rep. ¶ 55
(“An outlet store or factory outlet is a type of brand-specific store where a brand can sell
price goods from the non-outlet version of the brand.”); Tr. at 436:18-25 (Kahn: some Coach
stores are “full-price retail stores” and other Coach stores are “outlet stores”); id. at 779:9-15,
779:21-23 (Levine: “around half of [Coach’s] business is done at a discount . . . because the
majority of Coach’s customers transact in the outlet channel”; “There’s always a discount
going on in Coach’s outlet”); id. at 825:23-24, 859:11-14, 886:18-20 (Fraser: Kate Spade has
“outlet stores” and “full-price stores”; Kate Spade also has “two different e-commerce sites.
One is for full price. One is for outlet.”); id. at 1078:23-25 (Mr. Kors: Michael Kors’s outlet
Based on the evidence presented, the Court finds that accessible-luxury handbags are
distinct from mass-market and true-luxury handbags in two respects: (1) accessible-luxury
handbags have an entry price point of approximately $100 and rarely approach or exceed
$1,000; and (2) accessible-luxury handbags heavily rely on discounting. The Court addresses
To start, the Court finds that accessible-luxury handbags generally cost between $100
and $1,000. See Bertelsmann, 646 F. Supp. 3d at 28 (“Ample precedent supports [the] use of
a numerical cutoff to identify a submarket. It is common for courts to use seemingly arbitrary
36
criteria to home in on a segment of a broader industry.”). This is true regardless of whether
Again, Tapestry is illustrative. Coach’s “product portfolio starts at $100 as [the] point
of entry and does not exceed $1000.” PX1431 at 18 (March 2022 presentation to Tapestry
board); see also id. at 19 (Coach’s prices are “much lower than . . . $1000+”). Levine,
president of Coach North America, confirmed that the price zone for Coach’s brand
positioning in North America is between $150 and $500, although two variations of the Tabby
bag retail for $650 and $725, respectively. Tr. at 790:12-17, 798:10-799:3; accord PX7054 at
12 (Kahn during August 2023 Tapestry earnings call: “We’re extraordinarily focused on that
$300 to $500 price range. And that has created even greater white space between us and
European luxury.”); Tr. at 446:14-19 (Kahn discussing this remark: “[I]f you think of a bull’s-
eye, [$300 to $500 is] in the bull’s-eye. And then we play in permutations outside of that
bull’s-eye, but we see a lot of value in that price point.”). Tapestry’s internal calculations bear
out these estimates. See, e.g., PX1387 at 27-28 (August 2023 presentation to Tapestry board:
Coach “[p]rioritize[s] $100-$300”; in North America during fiscal year 2023, AUR was $295
at retail and $130 at outlet; during fiscal year 2024, AUR was $305 at retail and $130 at
Similarly, Liz Fraser, who served as Kate Spade’s CEO and brand president until
September 1, 2024, has stated that “[t]he sweet spot [for Kate Spade handbag prices] is
between $300 and $350.” PX1238 at 4 (February 2023 article in Women’s Wear Daily); see
Tr. at 835:18-836:23 (Fraser discussing this article); see also PX1250 at 7 (August 2023 letter
from Fraser to Tapestry board: during fiscal year 2023, Kate Spade handbag AUR was $206
in “full price” channels and $102 in “off price” channels); PX1250 at 18 (during fiscal year
2023, 62 percent of Kate Spade handbags sold at outlet had AUR of $101 and up; projected to
37
; PX8172 at 45:04-45:07
DX0926 at 17:06-19:09
; DX0933 at 59:14-59:22
Mass-market and true-luxury handbags occupy price categories that are distinct from
the price category for accessible-luxury handbags. Starting with the former, the Court finds
that mass-market handbags generally are priced below $100. See, e.g., Tr. at 459:23-460:2
(Kahn: “the predominant number” of mass-market handbags are under $100); id. at 933:11-19
(Steinmann: handbags in Macy’s “opening price point” and “mid-tier price point” categories
sell for under $50, and between $50 and $100, respectively); PX8171 at 22:22-24:07
; PX8172 at 45:11-16
; DX0930 at 24:22-25:5
According to Defendants, several numbers show that the FTC’s “$100 dividing line
between ‘accessible luxury’ and ‘mass market’ . . . makes little sense.” DFOF ¶ 112. First,
Defendants assert that “Michael Kors sold approximately 70.4% of its handbags through retail
and online channels for less than $100 in 2023.” Id. (citing Scott Morton Rep. ¶ 192, Ex. 8).
Second, Defendants claim that in 2023, the AUR for a Michael Kors handbag was $92. Id.
(citing Tr. at 1105:15-21 (Edwards); and DX0934). Third, Defendants assert that “Kate
Spade sold approximately 61.9% of its handbags through retail and online channels for less
39
than $100 in 2023.” Id. (citing Scott Morton Rep. ¶ 192, Ex. 8). Based on these figures,
Defendants argue that the $100 dividing line “would relegate the majority of sales by both
Michael Kors and Kate Spade outside of any ‘accessible luxury’ market.” Id. As further
evidence on this point, Defendants claim that “[e]ven Coach sold approximately 35% of its
handbags through [retail and online] channels for under $100 in 2023.” Id. (citing Scott
Defendants’ reliance on these statistics presupposes that AUR is the only relevant
metric and that MSRP does not matter in defining the product market for handbags. Even if
the Court accepts Defendants’ assumption, the Court rejects their conclusion because the
In claiming that the majority of Michael Kors and Kate Spade handbag sales (70.4 and
61.9 percent, respectively) and that a significant portion of Coach handbag sales (35 percent)
were for less than $100 in 2023, Defendants rely solely on an exhibit (“Exhibit 8”) in the
report prepared by Defendants’ economic expert, Professor Fiona Scott Morton. DFOF ¶ 112
(citing Scott Morton Rep. ¶ 192, Ex. 8). These figures, however, omit the wholesale category
entirely. See Scott Morton Rep. ¶ 192, Ex. 8 n.1 (“Includes revenues from online and retail
channels (excludes wholesale).”). Likewise, Edwards’s estimate of a $92 AUR for Michael
Kors handbags sold in 2023 does not account for wholesale sales. See Tr. at 1470:2-5
(Tapestry Closing).
By Professor Scott Morton’s own estimate, this omission is significant: in 2023, 29.3
percent of Michael Kors’s handbag revenue, 8.8 percent of Kate Spade’s handbag revenue,
and 6.9 percent of Coach’s handbag revenue came from wholesale. Scott Morton Rep. ¶ 59,
Ex. 2; see also Smith Rep. ¶¶ 19 tbl.1, 21 tbl.2, 27 tbl.3 (during the 12-month period spanning
January 2023 to December 2023, 12.5 percent of Kate Spade’s handbag units and 10.2 percent
40
of Coach’s handbag units were sold at wholesale; during a similar 12-month period between
January 2023 to December 2023, 21.4 percent of Michael Kors’s handbag units were sold at
stores across 43 states; all Macy’s stores sell handbags, as does Macy’s e-commerce site; as
measured by 2023 sales revenue, Michael Kors is the largest handbag brand at Macy’s and
Coach is the second largest.). Indeed, in several portions of her expert report, Professor Scott
Morton makes calculations using wholesale data for Coach, Kate Spade, and Michael Kors.
See, e.g., Scott Morton Rep. ¶ 59, Ex. 2 & n.3 (calculating handbag-sales revenue and noting
that “[w]holesale channel revenue is reflective of Tapestry and Capri sales to wholesalers”);
id. ¶ 190, Ex. 6 (using NPD data, which measures only wholesale sales, to calculate average
tote prices in 2023; finding, after “correct[ing]” several purported “flaws” with Dr. Smith’s
analysis, that the average price of a Coach tote was $228, the average price of a Kate Spade
tote was $172, and the average price of an MMK tote was $156); id. ¶ 204, Ex. 9 (calculating
market shares based on NPD data); id. ¶ 293, Ex. 15 (presenting a “variation” on Dr. Smith’s
pricing simulation, including prices in the wholesale channel). Yet she does not do so in
wholesale are discounted, see, e.g., Tr. at 935:18-20 (Steinmann), discounting is much more
frequent and steeper for handbags sold at outlet, see, e.g., Tr. at 1078:23-25 (Mr. Kors:
Michael Kors’s outlet stores have “a different price structure compared to full-price stores.”);
PX1250 at 7 (August 2023 letter from Fraser to Tapestry board: during fiscal year 2023, Kate
Spade handbag AUR was $206 in “full price channels” and $102 in “off-price” channels);
PX1387 at 27 (August 2023 Coach presentation to Tapestry board: during fiscal year 2023,
AUR at retail was $295 and AUR at outlet was $130). The Court thus finds it likely that
41
Professor Scott Morton’s exclusion of wholesale data – and the corresponding exaggeration of
outlet sales – inflates her calculations in Exhibit 8 of the percentages of Michael Kors, Kate
Spade, and Coach handbags sold for under $100 in 2023. Likewise, Edwards’s exclusion of
wholesale data most likely results in an underestimation of his calculation of AUR for
Michael Kors.
Professor Scott Morton’s Exhibit 8 calculations are difficult to credit for another
reason: they are inconsistent with ordinary-course documents bearing strong indicia of
reliability. For example, according to a slide deck presented to the Tapestry board in August
2023, see PX8169 at 90:25-92:09 (Lifford), less than one percent of Coach bags sold at retail
and only 12 percent of Coach bags sold at outlet during fiscal year 2023 had an AUR of $100
or less, PX1387 at 27. The next slide projected that during fiscal year 2024, those percentages
would fall further. See id. at 28. Virtually no Coach bags sold at retail and only nine percent
of Coach bags sold at outlet would have an AUR of $100 or less; altogether, “[o]nly 8% of
[Coach’s] bags [would be] sold below $100.” Id. These figures, which the Court deems
highly reliable given their origin and context, are virtually impossible to reconcile with
Professor Scott Morton’s estimation that 35 percent of Coach handbag sales at retail and at
outlet during 2023 were for under $100. See Scott Morton Rep. ¶ 192, Ex. 8. Likewise,
according to a slide in the Kate Spade portion of the August 2023 presentation to the Tapestry
board, 62 percent of Kate Spade handbags sold at outlet during fiscal year 2023 had an AUR
of $101 or more. PX1387 at 44. The same slide projected that this figure would increase to
66 percent during fiscal year 2024. Id.; see also Tr. at 837:1-23 (Fraser helped prepare the
Kate Spade portion of this presentation, as also entered into evidence at PX1250). Given that
over 60 percent of Kate Spade’s sales at outlet – which is the lowest-priced, most discount-
heavy sales channel – were over $100, the Court cannot credit Professor Scott Morton’s
42
estimation that 61.9 percent of Kate Spade’s overall handbag sales during 2023 were under
$100. See also, e.g., PX1387. at 43 (during fourth quarter of fiscal year 2023, in non-outlet
handbag-sales channels, AUR was $385 for Coach, $293 for Kate Spade, and $247 for
Michael Kors).
Given these concerns, the Court rejects Professor Scott Morton’s and Edwards’s
calculations as unreliable and contrary to other evidence in the record indicating that the
AURs for Coach, Kate Spade, and Michael Kors handbags generally exceed $100.
Accordingly, the Court finds that accessible-luxury handbags have distinct prices compared to
The price gap is even more pronounced in comparing accessible-luxury and true-
luxury handbags. As stated in a March 2022 presentation to Tapestry’s board, “luxury owns
[the] market” above $1,000. PX1431 at 18; see also id. at 19 (referencing the “traditional
once you hit a dollar threshold it is driven by a luxury brand. And so it looks as though
[Tapestry’s] records show that that’s a thousand.”); Tr. at 680:6-8 (Guez: starting price for a
true-luxury handbag is $950 to $1,000 for a clutch and between $2,000 and $3,000 for a cross-
body bag). And $1,000 is only the starting point for true luxury; the price can be much
Chanel handbags sold in the United States is between $5,000 and $11,000, and “some are
higher than” $11,000, while “[v]ery few are under” $5,000. Tr. at 660:2-8 (Yang); see also
43
11 (Kahn during November 2022 Tapestry earnings call: “the average price points are so
brands have increased prices at a higher rate than Accessible Luxury, widening the price gap
between the two segments”; “The price gap has widened, creating white space for our brands;
the pricing gap has grown from ~$1,700 in FY19 to ~$2,550 in FY23-to-date.”); Tr. at
383:12-384:21 (Harris confirming that “white space,” as used in PX1723, “refer[s] to the gap
in the MSRP prices between the luxury brands and the accessible luxury brands,” and that it
“has been widening over time”); PX7045 at 10 (Kahn during May 2023 Tapestry earnings
call: “[T]he white space that exists today between traditional European luxury, [and] where
Coach play[s] is the largest we’ve ever experienced.”); PX7054 at 12 (Kahn during August
2023 Tapestry earnings call: “even greater white space between us and European luxury”);
bond offering: “All [Tapestry] brands continue to see AUR growth through price increases.
There remains ample white space between our 3 brands and true luxury.”); Tr. at 377:16-
378:14 (Harris discussing PX1485); PX7030 at 11 (Kahn during November 2023 Tapestry
earnings call: “[T]here’s so much white space today between where our brand fits and where
traditional European luxury sits.”); PX7135 at 11 (Kahn during February 2024 Tapestry
earnings call: white space is “at an all-time high”); see also PX8169 at 102:03-12 (Lifford:
Tapestry board discussed white space between accessible luxury and true luxury at board
meetings).
The Court also finds that accessible-luxury brands are distinct from true-luxury brands
in their pricing model, insofar as accessible-luxury brands are heavily reliant on discounts and
other promotions to sell their handbags. See, e.g., Tr. at 162:3-4 (Idol: “[I]n our industry a
45
market and true-luxury brands are sold for between $100 and $1,000. See, e.g., Tr. at 986:19-
987:20 (Giberson discussing Tory Burch bag that is “priced over a thousand dollars”);
DX0935 at 1, 3 n.5
some true-luxury brands sell handbags at outlet stores, see, e.g., Tr. at 237:10-21 (Newman
listing examples of brands that sell at Woodbury Common Premium Outlets, including
Loewe, Prada, and Gucci), although generally they do so only at a few locations, see, e.g.,
PX8170 at 189:16-190:17
; cf. Tr.
at 436:18-25 (Kahn: Coach has about 190 outlet stores in North America); Tr. at 859:11-14
(Fraser: “Kate Spade has significantly more outlet stores than full-price stores”). But these
exceptions do not undermine the general pricing parameters that characterize these distinct
markets (and, indeed, that industry members consistently recognize). The Court reiterates that
“[i]ndustrial activities cannot be confined to trim categories,” Cont’l Can, 378 U.S. at 456
(citation omitted), and that “isolated instances” of exceptions do not defeat a finding that a
product market is defined by certain characteristics, H & R Block, 833 F. Supp. 2d at 56;
accord Spalding, 301 F.2d at 598; Bazaarvoice, 2014 WL 203966, at *45; Staples I, 970 F.
Supp. at 1078. The evidence in the record shows that most accessible-luxury handbags are
sold for between $100 and $1,000, and the prices and pricing tactics for these handbags
materially distinguish them from mass-market and true-luxury handbags. This finding
An important Brown Shoe factor – and one that, in this case, especially favors the
FTC – is “industry or public recognition” of the market “as a separate economic entity.” 370
47
U.S. at 325. Industry recognition is significant because courts assume that “economic actors
usually have accurate perceptions of economic realities.” Todd, 275 F.3d at 205 (citation
omitted); accord Tronox, 332 F. Supp. 3d at 198. Thus, “[w]hen determining the relevant
product market, courts often pay close attention to the defendants’ ordinary course of business
documents.” United States v. Google LLC, --- F. Supp. 3d ----, 2024 WL 3647498, at *71
(D.D.C. Aug. 5, 2024) (quoting H & R Block, 833 F. Supp. 2d at 52); accord IQVIA, 710 F.
Supp. 3d at 364.
Defendants insist that “the terms ‘accessible’ or ‘affordable’ luxury lack clear
definition and are not well recognized in the industry.” Opp. at 22 (emphasis omitted). Even
if this were true – and it is not, as the Court will explain shortly – it would not be dispositive.
Although the fact that people in the industry use the same phrase to refer to a market supports
a finding of industry recognition, uniform terminology is not required. See, e.g., Bertelsmann,
646 F. Supp. 3d at 32 (“Although the defendants proclaim that no one in the industry uses the
term ‘anticipated top seller,’ that does not mean that such books do not exist. . . . Regardless
of nomenclature, clear evidence demonstrates that the practice of identifying and giving
special support to the books that will drive sales is common.” (citation omitted)).
In any event, the Court finds that “accessible luxury,” “affordable luxury,” and similar
handbags that cost under $1,000. During the hearing, some of Defendants’ executives and
witnesses tried to downplay the significance of the term “accessible luxury” by suggesting
that it is arcane and used mostly in speaking with investors. See, e.g., Tr. at 259:20-260:2
(Kahn: “Coach coined the term [‘accessible luxury’] to describe itself and really for the
48
luxury” are “outdated” and “something that is more . . . from the past 10 to 15 years ago”).
The Court did not find this testimony credible. Some witnesses employed and/or called by
Defendants claimed that the term “accessible luxury” has no commonly understood meaning
at all, even within Tapestry and Capri. See, e.g., Tr. at 416:20-417:4 (Harris “[w]ithin
accessible luxury is not “a term that Tapestry uses to identify all the handbag brands that it
competes with”); id. at 880:10-22 (Fraser: “I’m aware of the term [‘accessible luxury’], but it
wasn’t one that we used at Kate Spade as a matter of course. . . . It’s such a subjective term.
Just don’t really think about [Kate Spade] that way.”); id. at 970:4-16 (Giberson: accessible
luxury is “fuzzy,” “not something that’s well defined,” and “not something that is a common
term”); id. at 1128:16-20 (Edwards: “accessible luxury” and “true luxury” are “broad
undefined terms”). The Court found this testimony even less credible.
The Court bases these credibility findings not only on its firsthand impressions of the
witnesses’ demeanors while testifying, but also on the substantial body of compelling
evidence, including reams of ordinary-course documents, showing that terms like “accessible
luxury” are used frequently and consistently. The record is replete with references to
“accessible luxury,” “affordable luxury,” and similar terms, not only by Tapestry and Capri,
but also by other industry participants to describe good-quality handbags at affordable prices.
49
handcrafted product that Tapestry’s consumers can access and attain relative to the value of
the product[.]”); id. at 438:7-11 (Kahn: “I think our main idea [with accessible luxury] was to
break the paradigm that you didn’t have to spend an extraordinary amount of money to buy a
high-quality handbag.”); id. at 675:15-20 (Guez: “The term ‘accessible luxury’ applies
because the handbags . . . have the make [that is] similar to a luxury handbag in an affordable
price to customers.”); id. at 789:16-25 (Levine: “The term ‘accessible luxury’ is a term that
Coach coined to describe quality good[s] at an accessible price . . . in comparison to what the
136:12-17 (Lifford: “When you look at the top tier, which we have talked about as luxury, and
it is the European luxury brands with a couple of others. And then you get to the bottom tier
which is outlets, lower brands themselves and everything in the middle to me is accessible
luxury.”; “accessible luxury” refers to the “next tier down from luxury”; “accessible luxury” is
about “the highest quality leather goods, it is an outstanding passion for detail, our detail and
; PX8172 at 45:04-45:07
; PX1431 at 12 (March
2022 presentation to Tapestry board: “Coach enables people to explore their individual take
on ‘Accessible Luxury.’ We make the highest quality leather goods with an outstanding
53
documents. For example, Tapestry CEO Crevoiserat testified that the same group of
companies (Michael Kors, Coach, Kate Spade, Marc Jacobs, and Tory Burch) are routinely
listed in Tapestry’s ordinary-course documents because they are public companies, Tr. at
327:19-25, 333:22-334:6, but later acknowledged that Tory Burch is not a public company,
Industry participants also recognize that mass-market handbags are a distinct product
category, sometimes referring to them as “fast fashion” or “opening price point.” See, e.g., Tr.
; PX8168 at
Zara, H&M, Steve Madden, Tommy Hilfiger, and private-label brands. See, e.g., DX0885 at
7 (August 2023 slide deck presented to Capri board listing “Mass Market” brands: Gap,
Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Abercrombie & Fitch, and Zara); DX0930 at 32:22-33:6
; PX8168 at 15:11-16:1
. Tellingly, Coach, Kate Spade, and Michael Kors do not regard mass-market
brands as their peers or primary competitors. For example, Capri CEO Idol testified that he
“do[es] not consider fast fashion companies to be Michael Kors’[s] peers.” Tr. at 98:6-8.
Similarly, according to Coach CEO Kahn, Coach does not consider itself to be a mass-market
brand or to be competing with mass-market brands for customers’ “mind share.” Tr. at 459:3-
19 (Kahn). Also, Tapestry does not include any mass-market brands in its list of five to ten
brands that it tracks for benchmarking purposes. Id. at 394:15-395:20 (Harris). Even
Defendants’ industry expert Jeff Gennette “consider[s] Coach and Michael Kors to be above
57
as Kate Spade’s CEO and brand president, that “Gucci bags at $2000 is just not our customer
in NA.” PX1067 at 1. When Fraser added that “[w]e should be focused on the correct market
share,” Kahn responded: “Take it from MK, TB etc.” Id.; see Tr. at 458:23-459:1 (Kahn:
“MK” means Michael Kors and “TB” means Tory Burch). 23 Fraser replied: “Exactly.”
PX1067 at 1. Or as Fraser texted Tim Ryan, now Tapestry’s head of finance, in April 2022:
“Bottom line, saying we’re in the same market with true luxury is a joke. . . . Nobody says
‘should I buy a LV bag or a Coach bag?’” PX1427 at 1-2; see Tr. at 832:22-832:1 (Fraser:
Defendants respond in two ways. First, Defendants assert that “accessible luxury” is
“a term that Coach and Tapestry used in the past,” but that Tapestry “has largely moved away
from [the term] in recent years.” Tr. at 60:18-23 (Tapestry opening) (quotation marks
omitted). Instead, Tapestry now prefers the term “expressive luxury.” See, e.g., Tr. at 493:5-
16, 497:12-498:14 (Kahn); id. at 795:2-21 (Levine). As the FTC notes, however, Tapestry
describes “expressive luxury” using much of the same language that it has used to describe
“accessible luxury.” See PFOF ¶ 106; compare, e.g., PX1431 at 12 (March 2022 presentation
to Tapestry board: “Coach enables people to explore their individual take on ‘Accessible
Luxury.’ We make the highest quality leather goods with an outstanding passion for details
and craftsmanship to make sure our bags are carried from one generation to another.”;
“Product focus will be between $150-500 for NA . . . and distributed through a multi-channel
network.”), with PX1731 at 23 (February 2023 presentation to Tapestry board: “Coach invites
our community to be their true selves through Expressive Luxury. Luxury is not just about
23
Given the evidence presented in this case, the Court does not credit Kahn’s contrary
testimony at the hearing that Coach is “successfully competing with a Gucci customer.” Tr. at
483:24-484:13.
60
impressing, it’s also about self-expression. We make the highest quality leather goods with an
outstanding passion for detail and craftsmanship to make sure our bags are carried from one
generation to another.”; “Product focus will be between $150-500 for NA . . . and distributed
mention other industry participants – have continued to use the language of “accessible
luxury” even after Tapestry’s purported reframing. Indeed, Defendants repeatedly used the
term in the months before and after the announcement of the merger – only for the term to
disappear from their lexicon once the FTC filed suit in April 2024. See, e.g., PX1723 at 9-10
(May 2023 slide deck presented to Tapestry board); PX7098 at 9-10, 14 (May 2023 Capri
SEC filing); PX1250 at 7 (August 2023 letter from Fraser to Tapestry board); PX1250 at 17
(August 2023 slide deck presented to Tapestry board); PX2439 at 4 (August 2023 Capri board
meeting minutes: “Mr. Wilmotte next discussed with the Board the U.S. leather goods market
and the accessible luxury market.”); PX2430 at 15 (October 2023 slide deck presented to
Capri board); PX7157 at 41 (February 2024 Capri SEC filing); PX2561 at 23 (March 2024
Capri strategic-planning slide deck); cf. PX7261 (May 2024 Capri SEC filing does not
Second, Defendants fault the FTC for looking only to industry recognition, without
considering whether the general public recognizes “accessible luxury” as a category. See
DFOF ¶ 87; DCOL ¶¶ 24-27; cf. Tr. at 145:8-13 (Idol: Michael Kors does not use the term
“accessible luxury” in marketing to consumers); id. at 498:23-499:1 (Kahn: Coach does not
use the term “accessible luxury” in any “consumer-facing material[s]”); id. at 880:23-881:1
(during Fraser’s tenure as CEO, Kate Spade did not market itself or its products to consumers
as “accessible luxury”). This argument is unavailing. To start, even if consumers do not say
“accessible luxury,” consumers still may understand the concept to which the term refers:
61
good-quality bags at affordable prices. See, e.g., Tr. at 490:9-11 (Kahn: “The attributes that
we represent, whether it’s genuine leather, whether it’s quality, whether it’s our American
heritage, those attributes resonate with our customer.”); PX1325 at 42 (Tapestry September
2023 consumer survey quoting interviewee: “Coach is still for someone that wants to feel
maybe a little bit more affluent but isn’t really splurging on something such as LV or
Gucci.”); DX0754 at 2, 20
. More
importantly, evidence of formal public recognition is not required to satisfy this Brown Shoe
factor. It is true that Brown Shoe described “men’s, women’s and children’s shoes” as
“product lines . . . recognized by the public.” 370 U.S. at 326; cf. DCOL ¶ 24. But in
enumerating practical indicia more generally, Brown Shoe identified “industry or public
recognition of the submarket” as relevant to market definition. 370 U.S. at 325 (emphasis
product line would bolster the FTC’s market definition, but the lack of such evidence does not
render insufficient the substantial evidence of industry recognition presented by the FTC.
Indeed, courts often analyze this Brown Shoe factor – and conclude that it tips in the
plaintiff’s favor – by looking only at evidence of industry recognition. See, e.g., Meta, 654 F.
communications and testimony from industry members, court found that “Defendants and the
submarket”; no mention of consumer recognition); Staples II, 190 F. Supp. 3d at 119 (finding
that “the industry recognizes large B-to-B customers as a separate economic entity”; no
found it persuasive that in the ordinary course of business, Bazaarvoice and PowerReviews
62
recognized that R & R platforms comprise a distinct market. . . . Another factor supporting
this market definition is that competitors and former competitors in the R & R platform
In sum, the Court finds that the handbag industry understands “accessible luxury” as
product[s]” at a “lower cost,” PX1704 at 1 (Crevoiserat) – in other words, “craft at scale,” Tr.
The price-sensitivity Brown Shoe factor “evaluates the change in sales of a possible
substitute product given a change in the price of products within the relevant market.” Meta,
654 F. Supp. 3d at 919. “Because this is in essence the same question posed by the HMT, the
Court will not duplicate its analysis here.” Id. (citation omitted). As explained below in the
discussion regarding the HMT, see infra at pp. 64-75, this factor supports the Court’s finding
f. Final Analysis
As noted, the Brown Shoe indicia are “neither mandatory nor exhaustive.” Alaska
Elec. Pension Fund, 306 F. Supp. 3d at 620. They “are practical aids as opposed to talismanic
criteria to be rigidly applied; thus, submarkets can exist even if only some of these factors are
present.” Bertelsmann, 646 F. Supp. 3d at 25 (quotation marks and citations omitted); accord
IQVIA, 710 F. Supp. 3d at 355. Indeed, courts have recognized well-defined product markets
even where only three Brown Shoe factors were present. See, e.g., Abex Corp. v. FTC, 420
F.2d 928, 931-32 (6th Cir. 1970) (distinct prices, peculiar characteristics and uses, and unique
production facilities); Reynolds Metals Co. v. FTC, 309 F.2d 223, 227 (D.C. Cir. 1962)
63
(Burger, J.) (public and industrial recognition, distinct customers, and distinct prices); see also
United States v. Blue Bell, Inc., 395 F. Supp. 538, 542 (M.D. Tenn. 1975) (noting that in
Alcoa, 377 U.S. at 276-77, “the Supreme Court found aluminum conductor to be a product
market on the basis of certain distinctive end uses and distinct prices”).
different product market than mass-market handbags: peculiar characteristics, distinct prices,
industry recognition, and sensitivity to price changes. See 370 U.S. at 325. Likewise, four
market than true-luxury handbags: unique production facilities, distinct prices, industry
recognition, and sensitivity to price changes. See id. Examining the indicia holistically, and
especially considering the highly compelling evidence of industry recognition, the Court finds
that accessible-luxury handbags are a relevant antitrust market distinct from mass-market
The Court also finds that the FTC has defined a relevant antitrust market consisting of
persuasive the analysis and testimony of Dr. Loren K. Smith, the FTC’s economic expert,
confirming that accessible-luxury handbags are a relevant product market through application
of the hypothetical-monopolist test (or HMT). Smith Rep. ¶ 11; Tr. at 522:19-23 (Smith); see
id. at 1291:4-14 (Scott Morton: “the HMT is an appropriate tool for market definition”).
24
Because the other Brown Shoe indicia suffice to establish a relevant product market, the
Court need not decide whether accessible-luxury handbags also have “distinct customers” or
“specialized vendors.” 370 U.S. at 325.
64
Dr. Smith is an executive vice president of Compass Lexecon, an economic-consulting
firm, and received his Ph.D. in economics from the University of Virginia in 2006. Smith
Rep. ¶ 1; Tr. at 515:17-516:3 (Smith). Before the hearing, Defendants moved in limine to
exclude Dr. Smith’s opinions regarding and relying on his diversion analysis. Dkt. 184. The
Court denied the motion, explaining that the economic principles and methodology employed
by Dr. Smith generally in conducting his diversion analysis are sufficiently reliable and
before the Court. Sept. 6, 2024 Tr. at 63:10-64:11; Dkt. 321. At the hearing, Defendants
“agree[d] that Dr. Smith is qualified to testify as an economist.” Tr. at 517:21-22. The Court
therefore found Dr. Smith qualified to testify as an expert in industrial organization economics
and received his expert testimony and report. Id. at 517:19-24, 529:18-530:5. The Court will
now comprehensively review Dr. Smith’s methodology and analyze Defendants’ critiques so
that the Court may fully evaluate the reliability of Dr. Smith’s opinions and determine the
Because Defendants raised critiques through several experts, the Court will first
provide a brief overview of Defendants’ expert witnesses. Defendants offered two industry
experts: Karen Giberson and Jeff Gennette. Giberson is the president and CEO of the
Gennette is the former CEO of Macy’s, Inc., where he held a variety of roles from 1983 until
April 2024. Tr. at 1132:8-15 (Gennette); DX0284 (“Gennette Rep.”) ¶¶ 1-2. Before the
hearing, the FTC moved in limine to exclude the testimony and opinions of both Giberson and
Gennette in their entirety. Dkts. 171, 176. The Court denied the motions, holding that
Giberson and Gennette would be allowed to opine as industry experts as to matters within
their expertise, but that to the extent they testified to matters outside of their field of expertise
65
(including as to matters involving economic analysis), the Court would not afford their
testimony any weight. Sept. 6, 2024 Tr. at 65:4-66:3. The Court thereafter found Giberson
qualified to testify as an industry expert in the field of handbags, Tr. at 959:10-15, found
Gennette qualified to testify as an industry expert in select aspects of the handbag industry, id.
Defendants also offered the expert testimony of an economist, Professor Scott Morton.
Professor Scott Morton is a professor of economics at the Yale School of Management and
holds a Ph.D. in economics from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Id. at 1216:4-11,
1218:20-21 (Scott Morton); Scott Morton Rep. ¶ 1. Without objection, the Court found
Professor Scott Morton to be qualified in the field of industrial organization economics and
received her testimony and report at the hearing. Tr. at 1220:1-12 (Scott Morton).
To define a relevant product market, Dr. Smith first analyzed party and nonparty
qualitative evidence that, in his view, shows that accessible-luxury handbags – “a group of
handbag products made of more durable and finer materials, and claiming finer craftsmanship,
than mass-produced items, but also at prices well under $1,000” – are a distinct category of
handbags. Smith. Rep. ¶ 51; see id. ¶¶ 50-91; PX1334 at 1; Tr. at 534:13-15, 535:13-536:1,
25
The Court notes that to the extent Giberson and Gennette offered opinions outside their area
of expertise, such opinions have not been afforded any weight in the Court’s analysis here.
For example, Giberson testified that the NPD’s data is “just not great statistics,” Tr. at 979:5-6
(Giberson), but she is not an expert on data analysis, statistics, or a related field, id. at 999:16-
17. Additionally, to the extent that Giberson and Gennette offered opinions on matters as to
which they had no knowledge, such opinions have also not been afforded weight by the Court.
For example, Gennette opined that information in a particular document (PX3216)
“confirm[s] the importance of resale to department stores today,” Tr. at 1139:14-16
(Gennette), but when asked questions about the data contained in that document, Gennette
was uncertain as to what the information represented, id. at 1149:1-1150:4 (Gennette). Thus,
the Court discounts the testimony he presented in that regard.
66
537:24-538:8, 539:1-544:4 (Smith). This assessment comports with the Court’s review of the
relevant factors based on a Brown Shoe qualitative analysis, as set forth previously.
Dr. Smith analyzed crossbody bags, satchels, shoulder bags, and totes as a “cluster”
market for his analysis, Smith Rep. ¶ 35; Tr. at 531:16-18, because the parties’ documents
typically tracked relevant metrics at the handbag level, and because Tapestry and Capri had
similarly high sales shares in these categories, Smith Rep. ¶ 93; Tr. at 532:3-533:5. The Court
finds that this approach is appropriate here. “[C]ourts have upheld product market definitions
that include a range of products that are related in the eyes of purchasers and that are marketed
together by a particular type of seller.” In re Pool Prods. Distrib. Mkt. Antitrust Litig., 940 F.
Supp. 2d 367, 378-79 (E.D. La. 2013); see, e.g., Staples II, 190 F. Supp. 3d at 117 (“Although
a pen is not a functional substitute for a paperclip, it is possible to cluster consumable office
supplies into one market for analytical convenience. Defining the market as a cluster market
is justified in this case because market shares and competitive conditions are likely to be
similar for the distribution of pens to large customers and the distribution of binder clips to
large customers.” (quotation marks and citations omitted)); Toys R Us, Inc., 126 F.T.C. 415,
593 (1998) (relevant product market was the retail sale of toys, including products as distinct
as bikes, video games, and dolls), aff’d sub nom. Toys “R” Us, Inc. v. FTC, 221 F.3d 928 (7th
Cir. 2000); cf. ProMedica, 749 F.3d at 565 (explaining that in Brown Shoe, “the Supreme
Court analyzed together the markets for men’s, women’s, and children’s shoes, because the
Defendants do not argue that Dr. Smith erred by using a cluster-market approach. See
generally Opp.; DFOF; DCOL. Rather, Defendants’ economic expert, Professor Scott
Morton, critiques Dr. Smith’s analysis because his cluster market does not include more
silhouettes of handbags. Scott Morton Rep. ¶ 32. This critique falls short, however, because
67
Dr. Smith conducted an alternative analysis in his reply report that added more silhouettes to
his proposed market – namely, clutches, wristlets, fashion backpacks, and belt bags – and that
analysis yielded similar proportional results to those in his original cluster market. Smith
Dr. Smith next identified a set of accessible-luxury handbag brands as his candidate
market in the HMT. Smith Rep. ¶ 50. Dr. Smith drew from market size data maintained in
the ordinary course by Tapestry, which identified and tracked a group of “Accessible Luxury
brands.” Id. (citing PX1328). Dr. Smith also observed that Tapestry subscribes to the third-
party data service NPD, which collects wholesale-channel sales data for handbags. Id. 26 NPD
categorizes the brands for whom it provides data into several segments, including “Bridge”
and “Contemporary.” Id. Because each of the brands identified as “Accessible Luxury” in
Tapestry’s 2022 market sizing model was included in NPD’s categorizations of “Bridge” or
“Contemporary,” and because Tapestry has used NPD’s Bridge and Contemporary categories
to track the size of the accessible-luxury segment, Dr. Smith added each brand categorized by
NPD in 2023 as “Bridge” or “Contemporary” to his candidate market. Id. (citing PX1334). 27
26
NPD is now known as Circana. Tr. at 536:2-4 (Smith); Smith Rep. ¶ 67. Because the
parties have referred to the company as NPD throughout the proceedings, the Court will refer
to the firm by its former name as well.
27
For substantially the same reasons, the Court finds that NPD’s “Bridge” and
“Contemporary” categories conservatively approximate the product market qualitatively
described supra at pp. 21-64 in the Court’s Brown Shoe analysis. Therefore, the market-share
and market-concentration figures calculated infra at pp. 94-99 apply not only to the product
market established quantitatively by the HMT but also the product market established
qualitatively by Brown Shoe.
68
DX0498; DX0499. Thus, Dr. Smith’s candidate accessible-luxury-handbags market consists
Dr. Smith then tested his candidate market through an HMT analysis. Id. at 544:5-15
HMT (and thus represents a relevant antitrust market), Dr. Smith used an aggregate-diversion
analysis. Id. at 548:15-16; Smith Rep. ¶ 102. “[D]iversion refers to a consumer’s response to
a measured increase in the price of a product. In other words, diversion measures to what
extent consumers of a given product will switch (or be ‘diverted’) to other products in
response to a price increase in the given product.” H & R Block, 833 F. Supp. 2d at 62; see
Tr. at 551:11-13 (Smith: “[T]he particular question of interest is if I raise [the] price of one
brand, where are the sales going to be diverted to.”). Because Defendants challenge certain
necessary.
threshold aggregate-diversion ratio, that is, “the percentage of customers that would need to
stay within the [candidate] market to make a price increase profitable.” Sysco, 113 F. Supp.
3d at 34. “This is strictly a mathematical step, with the aggregate diversion ratio a function of
the subject product’s gross margin,” which is “the price of selling one additional product
minus the cost of selling the additional product.” Id. Second, one determines “the actual
aggregate diversion – that is, the actual percentage of customers of a single [firm] that would
switch to another [firm] after a price increase.” Id. “Since these lost sales are recaptured
within the proposed market, they are not lost to the hypothetical monopolist.” H & R Block,
833 F. Supp. 2d at 63. Third, one compares the threshold aggregate diversion ratio with the
69
actual aggregate diversion. If the actual aggregate diversion exceeds the threshold aggregate-
diversion ratio, then an SSNIP at that level would be profitable for a hypothetical monopolist.
Id.; accord Sysco, 113 F. Supp. 3d at 34. As applied here, this means that if the percentage of
response to a price increase “is greater than the percentage of customers needed to stay within
the market to make a price increase profitable, then the relevant product market is properly
At step one (that is, calculation of the threshold aggregate diversion), as explained
above, Dr. Smith analyzed the price-cost margin for accessible-luxury handbags. Dr. Smith
assumed that the price-cost margin on accessible-luxury handbags was 60 percent, a figure
lower than the price-cost margin for handbags reported by Coach, Kate Spade, and Michael
Kors. Smith Rep. ¶¶ 104-105; Tr. at 547:9-548:10 (Smith). Defendants’ economic expert,
Professor Scott Morton, agreed with Dr. Smith that “handbag manufacturers have high gross
margins” and that “[D]efendants’ accounting margins are above 60%.” Tr. at 1301:25-
1302:5. Giberson, one of Defendants’ industry experts, likewise opined that “most handbag
sellers have very high margins,” and that “many are higher even than Coach, Kate Spade, and
Dr. Smith then used that conservative price-cost margin to calculate the threshold
aggregate-diversion ratio, which he found to be 17 percent. Smith Rep. ¶ 104; Tr. at 548:20-
549:5 (Smith). As explained by Dr. Smith (and not disputed by Defendants), a “hypothetical
monopolist would increase price by at least 5% for a given product if the aggregate diversion
ratio from that product to other products under the control of the hypothetical monopolist is at
70
least 10/m, where m is the percentage price-cost margin on [the applicable] products.” Smith
Rep. ¶ 104. Here, where m is 60, 10/60 = 17 percent. “In other words, if the aggregate
diversion ratio from any accessible luxury brand to all other brands in the candidate accessible
Dr. Smith then turned to step two – that is, calculation of the actual diversion ratios
from Coach, Kate Spade, and Michael Kors to all other accessible-luxury handbags. To
estimate actual diversion, Dr. Smith relied upon four surveys – two conducted by Kantar in
2021, one conducted by Kantar in 2022, and one from Bain in 2022 – that were commissioned
by Tapestry. Id. ¶¶ 246-247; Tr. at 550:16-24, 634:10-16, 647:18-22 (Smith); see also, e.g.,
PX1697 (data from 2022 Bain survey commissioned by Tapestry). These surveys asked
consumers: (1) “What other brands did you consider before you made this purchase?” and
(2) “The last time you purchased [a handbag] from [brand], what other [handbag] brands did
you consider buying from?” Smith Rep. ¶ 244, 247 (quotation marks omitted); see, e.g.,
PX1185 at 10 (2023 Tapestry Brand Health Tracker survey questions); PX1647 at 9 (Tapestry
2022 Brand Health Tracker survey questions). 28 To answer these questions, respondents were
presented with a drop-down list of brands; they also had the option to answer “other” and
Dr. Smith used the responses from these surveys, which “relate[d] to a specific [past]
purchase,” id. at 551:17-18 (Smith), “as a proxy for where customers would divert their
28
Tapestry maintains a “Brand Health Tracker” which is informed by yearly data from
surveys conducted in partnership with the research firm Kantar. See, e.g., Tr. at 1197:6-
1198:17 (Yu). During the preliminary injunction hearing, the parties often referred to the
relevant data from the Kantar surveys as the “Brand Health Tracker”; the Court accordingly
adopts that terminology in this opinion.
71
purchases if they did not purchase, e.g., a Kate Spade handbag,” Smith Rep. ¶ 247; see Tr. at
551:23-552:8 (Smith: this method “assum[es] that the brands that are considered [within the
meaning of this survey question] are the next best option for the brand that was chosen”). If a
survey respondent indicated that she considered multiple other brands before making their
purchase, Dr. Smith assigned those brands equal probability as next-best options. Tr. at
552:3-16 (Smith). On the other hand, if the survey respondent indicated that they did not
consider any other brands before making their purchase, Dr. Smith found that such a response
“indicates . . . one of two things.” Id. at 559:21 (Smith). In Dr. Smith’s baseline analysis, he
assumed that such a consumer was a brand loyalist who would not switch to another brand no
matter what the price increase might be. Id. at 559:21-23 (Smith). Such a consumer is
inframarginal. Smith Rep. ¶ 245 n.442 (“Inframarginal consumers are those who do not
inframarginal consumer would not divert their sale elsewhere in the market despite a price
increase, Dr. Smith excluded them from his baseline analysis. Tr. at 559:23-560:2 (Smith).
Alternatively, such a consumer could be marginal (rather than an inframarginal brand loyalist)
because “their next best option is not a handbag.” Id. at 560:2-3 (Smith); cf. id. at 320:17-23
(Crevoiserat: “[I]f a customer doesn’t like what we’re providing, they could go anywhere.
They could buy a pair of yoga pants or go out to dinner.”). Although Dr. Smith testified that
he thought this scenario was “less likely,” he conservatively accounted for that possibility in
Using this data, Dr. Smith calculated the diversion ratio from Coach to other
accessible luxury brands to be between 61 percent and 36 percent (representing his baseline
analysis and sensitivity analysis, respectively), the diversion ratio from Kate Spade to other
accessible luxury brands to be between 65 percent and 46 percent (same), and the diversion
72
ratio from Michael Kors to other accessible luxury brands to be between 64 percent and 51
percent (same). Smith Rep. ¶ 107. After Dr. Smith calculated his actual diversion ratios, he
looked to sales data collected during discovery “to econometrically estimate substitution
between the parties” in order to corroborate his results. Tr. at 562:3-8 (Smith); Smith Rep.
¶ 248 & n.448. Although Dr. Smith recognized that this data “is more limited” and such
calculation was “challenging,” his corroborating analysis “do[es] indicate high diversion
ratios between the merging parties, and thus [is] supportive of the use of these diversion
ratios to the threshold aggregate-diversion ratios. As explained above, if the diversion ratios
of the products within the candidate relevant market exceed the threshold aggregate-diversion
ratio, then an SSNIP at the tested level would be profitable for a hypothetical monopolist. See
H & R Block, 833 F. Supp. 2d at 63. Here, each of the calculated diversion ratios far exceeds
monopolist test. Smith Rep. ¶ 107 (diversion ratio from Coach calculated to be between 61
percent and 36 percent; diversion ratio from Kate Spade calculated to be between 65 percent
and 46 percent; diversion ratio from Michael Kors calculated to be between 64 percent and 51
percent). That is, each of the calculated diversion ratios indicate that a hypothetical
monopolist would find it profitable to implement an SSNIP of at least five percent on the
products in the accessible-luxury handbag market, Smith Rep. ¶ 105, indicating that the
long ways,” Tr. at 550:5-9 (Smith). Indeed, the calculated diversion here “is more than three
times as high in the baseline case and more than two times as high in any of the sensitivity
73
iii. Dr. Smith’s Alternative HMT
Dr. Smith also conducted an alternative HMT using data only from Tapestry and
Capri. Smith Rep. ¶ 108. This alternative HMT showed that a hypothetical monopolist who
controlled only the Coach, Kate Spade, and Michael Kors brands (rather than the more than
200 brands in Dr. Smith’s candidate accessible-luxury-handbag market) would also find it
profitable to impose an SSNIP on at least one of the brands. Id. ¶¶ 108, 256-258. Because the
HMT is a tool to test whether a candidate market is too small, this indicates that Dr. Smith’s
candidate accessible-luxury-handbag market (which includes not only the three brands at issue
here, but also all of the brands categorized by NPD as bridge and contemporary) is
conservative. Cf. AmEx I, 838 F.3d at 199 (“[If] consumers are able and inclined to switch
away from the products in the proposed market in sufficiently high numbers to render the
SSNIP unprofitable, then the proposed market definition is likely too narrow and should be
The Court need not pause long on this alternative market because, given commercial
realities, the FTC does not assert that Dr. Smith’s alternative market of just the merging
brands comprises a relevant market here. Tr. at 571:11-14 (Smith: “[A] market of just Coach,
Kate Spade, and Michael Kors is [not] the appropriate relevant antitrust market through which
to evaluate the merger.”); see H & R Block, 833 F. Supp. 2d at 64 (“The fact that [the
plaintiff’s expert’s] analysis would validate other groupings of businesses does not undermine
[the plaintiff’s expert’s] reliance on it to validate . . . the relevant market in this case.”).
Indeed, Defendants’ own economic expert, Professor Scott Morton, recognized in a 2020 co-
authored article that a market may be “comprised solely of . . . two merging firms,” but that in
such a case, an agency might choose to define a market that is not the narrowest market in
74
order to prevent a court from “balk[ing] at a very narrow market that violates its intuition” or
i. NPD
Defendants first challenge Dr. Smith’s analysis because he relies upon NPD’s
at 29. Defendants assert that Capri does not even subscribe to NPD, and that Tapestry does
not use NPD’s bridge and contemporary categories as a proxy for an accessible-luxury-
handbag market. Id. Defendants also assert that NPD does not identify the brands labeled
bridge and contemporary as “accessible luxury” brands, and that neither Dr. Smith nor the
FTC understand the method by which NPD classifies its brands. Id. Defendants finally argue
that the FTC and Dr. Smith failed to do any analysis as to whether the brands classified by
NPD as bridge and contemporary fall within the relevant submarket based on the Brown Shoe
indicia. Id. For the following reasons, these critiques do not persuade the Court or undermine
Although it is true that Capri does not subscribe to NPD, Tr. at 1118:4-5 (Edwards),
Tapestry subscribes to NPD and its executives consult NPD reports, see, e.g., Tr. at 281:5-21
context of performance of competitors in the wholesale channel[.]”); id. at 418:6-7 (Q: “Does
Tapestry purchase data from NPD?” Harris: “We do.”); id. at 881:21-24 (Fraser, as CEO of
Kate Spade, would “sometimes” look at NPD’s “quarterly download”); PX1306 (April 2021
email to Crevoiserat, Kahn, Fraser, and other executives at Tapestry, Coach, Kate Spade, and
75
separately undertake a Brown Shoe analysis of the handbags in each of the “bridge” and
“contemporary” brand categories. Opp. at 29. It is true that Dr. Smith based his candidate
market on NPD’s categorization of brands rather than the distinct characteristics of individual
handbags, but he included those categories based on his review of Tapestry’s ordinary-course
criticism that Dr. Smith was unable to determine whether a particular handbag belongs in his
product market without knowing its brand, see Tr. at 606:2-607:5 (Smith), simply
demonstrates the importance of brand as a distinguishing factor in the handbag industry. The
same could be said of name-brand versus generic drugs, and the Second Circuit has found a
relevant antitrust market consisting of generic drugs as distinct from the same name-brand
In sum, Defendants’ critiques based on Dr. Smith’s use of the NPD data to define a
to estimate diversion ratios. Defendants raise several issues with the survey questions,
including that the survey questions do not directly ask what a consumer would do in the event
of a price increase and therefore do not measure diversion. Opp. at 30. Defendants also argue
that the use of survey data from 2021 and 2022 cannot accurately predict consumer behavior
The Court first addresses Defendants’ critiques of the survey questions. To start,
Defendants assert that Dr. Smith’s diversion analysis is unreliable because the survey data
78
“did not ask consumer about switching their purchases . . . in response to a price increase.”
Opp. at 3; see id. at 30-31. While a survey question that asks specifically about alternative
purchases in the event of a price increase may have assessed diversion more directly, the
questions relied on by Dr. Smith are sufficiently indicative of diversion because they elicited
the consumer’s next-best option. See Smith Rep. ¶ 247. In the surveys, consumers were
asked about the brands they considered buying when they made their last purchase, which Dr.
Smith used “as a proxy for where customers would divert their purchases if they did not
purchase, e.g., a Kate Spade handbag.” Id. This was a reasonable approach.
courts use such analyses to assess mergers. For example, in Anthem, the plaintiff’s economic
expert conducted a diversion analysis by utilizing the defendant’s internal bidding data, which
did not include a price-specific question, yet the court credited the expert’s testimony relying
on that diversion analysis. 236 F. Supp. 3d at 217, 220. In Sysco, the court similarly credited
the testimony of the plaintiff’s expert which was based on requests for proposals and bidding
data, which similarly did not directly address diversion due to a price-increase. 113 F. Supp.
3d at 35-37; see also, e.g., FTC v. Wilh. Wilhelmsen Holding ASA, 341 F. Supp. 3d 27, 57
(D.D.C. 2018) (plaintiff’s expert calculated diversion ratios based on revenue information,
salesforce data, and win/loss data); Bertelsmann, 646 F. Supp. 3d at 39 (plaintiff’s expert
calculated diversion ratios based on market shares, win/loss data, runner-up data, and
Defendants place undue reliance on H & R Block for the proposition that a court
should reject an “expert’s attempt in a merger challenge to calculate diversion ratios and
define the relevant market based on survey data” that does not explicitly measure diversion
based on price increases. Opp. at 30-31. It is true that in H & R Block, the court noted that
79
the IRS switching data that showed customers switching between tax-preparation
methods/services did not “directly measure diversion because switching can occur for any
number of reasons, many of which may not involve price.” 833 F. Supp. 2d at 62.
Notwithstanding this, however, the court ultimately relied upon the expert analysis using this
data because it was “at least somewhat indicative of likely diversion ratios.” Id.
Defendants next take issue with Dr. Smith’s assumption that the survey responses
reflect a consumer’s next-best option when the survey questions asked about the brands that
consumers “considered.” Tr. at 551:23-552:8 (Smith). Defendants argue that the survey
questions – and hence Dr. Smith – did not take into account that the other brands that a
consumer “considered” when making a purchase might have been brands that the consumer
had no interest in buying then or in the future. See, e.g., Tr. at 412:9-15 (Harris: the survey
cannot show whether people who purchased a Coach handbag “considered Michael Kors[,]
respondent would never actually purchase, the Court agrees with Dr. Smith that this is not the
most logical conclusion, especially given the purpose of the surveys and their historical use by
Tapestry. See id. at 558:4-12 (Smith: “Was there an individual who listed a brand that they
hated? Yeah, it’s possible, but it’s not . . . the most logical conclusion.”). The Court finds
that it is much more reasonable to assume, for example, that the 96 consumers who answered
“Michael Kors” in response to the survey question asking for the brand they considered when
they purchased their Coach bag, indicated that a Michael Kors bag was their next-best option.
See id. at 412:18-22 (Harris: “[T]he 96 consumers who answered ‘Michael Kors’ [in response
to the survey questions] are consumers who answered they had purchased a Coach bag and
that they had considered Michael Kors.”). That is precisely what the surveys were intended to
80
measure – not brands that a consumer would never actually consider purchasing, as
Defendants now suggest. Indeed, Tapestry’s vice president of global consumer insights
testified that the 2021 and 2022 surveys analyzed a consumer’s “path-to-purchase.” Id. at
1186:1-4 (Yu); see id. at 1186:17-20 (Yu: “[T]he previous tracker was tracking kind of
Tapestry commissioned these surveys for multiple years and presented the results
regarding the market and their competitors to the highest-level executives at the company.
See, e.g., PX1216 at 12 (August 2022 Tapestry slide deck about potential acquisition of
Michael Kors using data from 2022 Brand Health Tracker); 30 PX1465 at 10 (October 2022
Tapestry slide deck sent to Yu, Fraser, Harris, Capiola, Ryan, and others about brand tracking
using data from 2022 Brand Health Tracker). Alice Yu, Tapestry’s vice president of global
consumer insights, testified that she trusted Kantar, the company hired by Tapestry to conduct
the Brand Health Tracker surveys over the years, Tr. at 1197:24-1198:7, and repeated later
surveys with similar questions and format, supporting the conclusion that Tapestry found the
2021 and 2022 surveys reliable. Tapestry also had input on and edited the survey questions.
See, e.g., PX1185 at 3-19 (2023 Brand Health Tracker questions showing edits and
comments); Tr. at 1186:11-1187:20 (Yu: describing changing and editing later survey).
30
Harris attempted to downplay the significance of the August 2022 slide deck as being put
together in “probably about an hour” by “grab[bing] what already existed from existing
reports.” Tr. at 421:17-20; see id. at 421:25-422:1 (Harris: “So this was what was just readily
available and off the shelf at the time.”). She pointed to others on her team who had prepared
the slides, id. at 427:16-429:7, claimed not to have reviewed them before they were given to
the CEO, id. at 429:8-10, and testified that she “did not think this [slide discussing the brand
survey] provided useful information” or “would be important or reliant or the focus of any
meaningful conversations or analyses,” id. at 422:6-13; see also id. at 413:20-414:1 (similar).
The Court does not find it credible that Harris – “the senior vice president of global strategy
and consumer insights” at a multibillion-dollar company, id. at 359:12-14 – would send a
supposedly slipshod slide deck about consumer insights to her CEO that was useless,
unimportant, or an improper basis for “meaningful conversations or analyses.”
81
Tapestry would not have commissioned these surveys and then used the results over a period
of years if the survey questions elicited brands that respondents would have never considered
purchasing. Finally, Crevoiserat testified that “the customer really determines the competitive
set, and that’s why we do a lot of work with consumers. We survey consumers on what
brands they consider when they buy our brands.” Tr. at 309:9-16 (emphasis added). Thus,
even Tapestry’s CEO finds that “the competitive set” is clearly related to “what brands
[consumers] consider when they buy our brands.” Tr. 309:9-16 (Crevoiserat) (emphasis
added).
Third parties also use similar language in their consumer surveys. In assessing their
brand positioning and competition, a survey collected the other brands that
“purchasers also considered.” DX0580 at 8 (further emphases omitted). This data that
the question of who the company “compete[s] with,” including an assessment of its “key
competitors.” Id. (emphases omitted). This third-party evidence further indicates to the Court
that brands a consumer “considered” before making a purchase are a good proxy for a
Defendants next critique the 2021 and 2022 survey questions by pointing out that
Tapestry edited the relevant survey question in its Brand Health Tracker in subsequent years
Tapestry overhauled the 2022 Brand Health Tracker to make the questions “more forward
looking”; Yu “overhauled the fiscal year 2022 version of the brand health tracker when [she]
took ownership of the fiscal year 2023 version”); cf. DX0288 (2024 Brand Health Tracker).
The survey question was changed to ask consumers how “likely” they were to “consider
choosing” certain brands in the next 12 months. PX1185 at 10. This new question does not
82
undermine the reliability of the prior questions in earlier surveys. As Tapestry acknowledged,
the earlier surveys tracked consumer behavior with respect to an actual purchase. Tr. at
1186:11-1187:20 (Yu: Tapestry overhauled the 2022 Brand Health Tracker because “the
previous tracker was tracking kind of people’s behavior in some ways of their purchases”); id.
at 1186:1-4 (Yu: the 2021 and 2022 surveys solicited information regarding a consumer’s
“path-to-purchase,” meaning “looking at [transaction] history and the sort of things that [a
consumer] did” or would do at the time, rather than understanding “the equity and brand
health”). The Court agrees with Dr. Smith that questions tracking consumer behavior with
respect to an actual purchase is more relevant to a diversion analysis than a question about
possible considerations in making future purchases. See Tr. at 556:11-19 (Smith); see also id.
at 1254:3-7 (Scott Morton: to test diversion, “you do need the purchase that [the survey
respondent is] making or did make. Then you have to ask about other purchases.” (emphasis
added)). Such an approach is consistent with other courts who have relied on expert
testimony regarding decisions about past purchases rather than forward-looking purchases.
See, e.g., Sysco, 113 F. Supp. 3d at 36-37 (crediting analysis of expert who relied upon past
requests for proposal and bidding data, which is not forward-looking). Thus, that Tapestry
later edited the survey question in its Brand Health Tracker in 2023 and beyond does not give
the Court pause about Dr. Smith’s reliance on the data from the 2021 and 2022 surveys.
Defendants also criticize the design of the 2021 and 2022 surveys for several reasons.
They assert that the surveys are unreliable because they contained initial screening questions
that restricted respondents’ choices to a list of prepopulated brands and then ask the relevant
Professor Scott Morton, Defendants’ economic expert, testified that in her experience, this
type of survey created a risk of bias towards brands with high “awareness,” Tr. at 1237:14-
83
1238:21, 1240:2-1241:21, and Yu testified that in her experience the survey design would
result in respondent “fatigue,” id. at 1193:1194:17. The Court finds that these critiques do not
undermine the reliability of the surveys. Survey respondents were not constrained by the
brands listed in the screening question and had the ability to write in additional brands that
they considered in response to the relevant survey question. Id. at 1190:23-25 (Yu).
that the survey’s length and structure would produce unreliable results. See id. at 1236:15-17
(Scott Morton is not a survey expert); id. at 1183-1206 (Yu not testifying as an expert).
Indeed, Yu testified that she trusted Kantar, the company hired by Tapestry to conduct the
Brand Health Tracker surveys over the years, id. at 1197:24-1198:7, and the same survey
structure was commissioned (and used) by Tapestry multiple times. Tapestry also continued
to work with Kantar in its later survey work. See PX1185; Tr. at 1197:24-1198:1 (Yu).
Defendants also complain that the surveys that Dr. Smith relied upon totaled “all
combined, around a thousand observations.” DFOF ¶ 123 (citation omitted). However, there
was no testimony from any survey experts that indicates that a thousand observations is
insufficient to measure diversion. Tapestry relied on the data from these surveys in the
ordinary course of its business to understand consumer behavior and even represented to the
FTC in this case that the Brand Health Tracker survey screened for “a robust sample of
handbag or small leather good (‘SLG’) purchasers with specific characteristics.” PX0050 at
1. Thus, the Court does not share Defendants’ newly articulated litigation concerns that
Defendants finally argue that the survey data from 2021 and 2022 is too stale to
provide meaningful data for diversion because the market for handbags changes quickly.
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DFOF ¶¶ 134-138; see, e.g., Tr. at 400:10-17, 414:9-20 (Harris: “we can’t look back that far.
The data and information is just too obsolete”; data from 2021 “tell[s] you” “nothing” “about
what brands [consumers] would consider today in 2024 and beyond”); id. at 1194:21-1195:13
(Yu: “[B]ehavior in 2021 . . . [cannot] predict what [consumers] will do in the future.”). The
Court acknowledges that it would have been ideal to use data from 2024 to analyze diversion
in 2024, rather than data from 2021 and 2022. However, Dr. Smith testified that while there
had been changes in the accessible-luxury handbag market from 2022 until present, the 2021
and 2022 surveys remained relevant indicators of consumer behavior today because the
survey results have been consistent, Defendants’ profit margins remain fairly constant, and the
market shares held by Defendants’ brands are also similar over the years (even if smaller
handbag brands have entered the market or grew in proportional market share between 2022
and the present, and even if Michael Kors’s revenue may have decreased). Tr. at 559:2-15,
1367:24-1368:9 (Smith); see id. at 562:19-563:3 (Smith: market shares for 2022 and 2023 for
the merging parties were “very similar”); id. at 1367:11-23 (Smith: “[The i]mportant markers
in the competitive environment, particularly [as to] the parties, are not changing significantly
from 2022 to 2023, for example. They have similarly high shares, [and] similarly high
margins[.]”). The Court credits this testimony. Even though fashion is an ever-changing
industry, the competitive landscape had not changed significantly enough to render 2021 and
Despite some limitations with the data, the Court finds that Dr. Smith’s approach is at
least highly indicative of diversion, which is sufficient. Cf. H & R Block, 833 F. Supp. 2d at
62 (although the data plaintiff’s expert relied upon in calculating diversion was “not without
its limitations,” it was “at least somewhat indicative of likely diversion ratios” and the court
85
antitrust treatise states, even if “some of the data one would like to have for a sophisticated
data are sufficient for a reasonable judgment on the market issue, defendants should not
prevail simply on a claim that other data might indicate a different and more favorable result.”
Areeda & Hovenkamp ¶ 929d (emphasis added). Moreover, and importantly, Dr. Smith’s
calculations of actual diversion are so much greater than the threshold diversion floor that
marginal errors in the survey results would not cause his candidate market to fail the HMT.
For these reasons, the Court finds Dr. Smith’s diversion analysis based on the 2021 and 2022
Defendants next make much of the fact that Dr. Smith testified only once before in a
Section 7 case, FTC v. Thomas Jefferson University, 505 F. Supp. 3d 522 (E.D. Pa. 2020),
where his analysis was rejected, see Opp. at 31-32. Of course, the fact that a different district
court rejected a different analysis by Dr. Smith does not require this Court to reject the
analysis presented by Dr. Smith in this case. See Camreta v. Greene, 563 U.S. 692, 709 n.7
(2011) (“A decision of a federal district court judge is not binding precedent in either a
different judicial district, the same judicial district, or even upon the same judge in a different
Thomas Jefferson University is also distinguishable from the case at hand as it dealt
with an entirely different type of market: healthcare. As other courts have noted, “a complex
healthcare market” is “not analogous” to a market involving “traditional sellers and buyers,”
Hackensack, 30 F.4th at 168, such as the market for accessible-luxury handbags in this case.
The former, unlike the latter, features “a two-stage model of competition,” with hospitals
negotiating with insurers while also competing to attract patients. Id. “Thus, unlike a
86
traditional seller and buyer industry, healthcare involves different payors with different
incentives and competitive constraints.” Id. Dr. Smith’s diversion analysis in that case also
relied on data regarding patient behavior to predict insurer behavior, where there was no
relevant correlation evidence regarding insurer and patient behavior. See 505 F. Supp. 3d at
554. Here, in a market involving traditional sellers and buyers, Dr. Smith analyzes data
regarding consumer behavior to assess behavior of those consumers. Therefore, the criticisms
levied against Dr. Smith’s analysis in Thomas Jefferson do not apply here. See Hackensack,
30 F.4th at 168 (“We must always consider the commercial realities of the industry
involved.”).
c. Final Analysis
For these reasons, the Court finds that the FTC has defined a relevant market based on
a quantitative approach. The analysis conducted by Dr. Smith demonstrates that the candidate
accessible luxury handbag market passes the HMT by significant amounts, and thus is an
Defendants make two additional interrelated arguments that, although not strictly
responding to the FTC’s qualitative or quantitative market analyses, nonetheless relate to the
market definition: (1) the FTC’s market definition does not accord with the commercial
realities of handbag competition; and (2) the existence of cross-shopping defeats the FTC’s
market definition. The Court considers and rejects these arguments in turn.
Defendants assert that the FTC’s market definition ignores evidence of “competition
from handbags sold by brands across the pricing spectrum.” DFOF ¶ 9. Indeed, the Court
heard testimony, much of it from Defendants’ executives and experts, that the competition in
the handbag market is “vast and dynamic,” Tr. at 326:8-14 (Crevoiserat), “highly” and
87
“increasing[ly]” competitive, id. at 400:19-401:2 (Harris), and “extremely fierce” and “as
fierce as ever,” id. at 227:6-8, 239:4-6 (Newman). As they tell it, companies like Coach, Kate
Spade, and Michael Kors are “getting squeezed from the top and from the bottom,” id. at
137:21-24 (Idol), and are facing an onslaught from “over 100 brands” that are “very fluid” and
“I[f customers a]re looking for a handbag, [they] have hundreds, literally hundreds of
single price point, and there’s new ones coming all the time.”). In essence, Defendants assert
that because Coach, Kate Spade, and Michael Kors potentially compete with every brand that
sells handbags in the United States, the relevant product market must include all handbags.
See, e.g., id. at 324:20-23 (Crevoiserat: “We know that customers shop up and down the price
spectrum. So we see competition from everywhere.”); id. at 1089:5-19 (Mr. Kors: MMK
As a threshold matter, the Court finds incredible the convenient litigation assertions by
Defendants that their brands compete with all handbags. Commercial realities simply do not
support a conclusion that, for example, an MMK handbag competes with an Hermès Birkin
bag. See, e.g., id. at 772:4-8 (Q: “Do you believe that Michael Michael Kors handbags
compete[] with the Hermès Birkin bag?” Wilmotte: “I believe that Michael Kors compete[s]
with anyone who makes handbags at the end of the day, so I’m looking at how the consumer
is shopping across the whole spectrum.”). As Kate Spade’s former CEO put it – prior to
31
Mr. Kors’s views on issues such as competition and cross-shopping were not based on
market studies, consumer research, or even any personal experience with setting prices for
Michael Kors handbags. Tr. at 1101:3-1102:2. Instead, as he put it, “the street is my
research.” Id. at 1102:2; see also id. at 1099:13-1100:02 (similar). The Court gives little
weight to unspecified street observations.
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litigation – “Nobody says ‘should I buy a [Louis Vuitton] bag or a Coach bag?’” PX1427 at
2; see Tr. at 831:22-832:1 (Fraser). The ordinary-course documents in the record make clear
that Coach, Kate Spade, and Michael Kors do not regard brands like Zara and Louis Vuitton
as nearly as important to their bottom line as they regard one another, along with other usual
suspects like Tory Burch and Marc Jacobs. 32 The Court finds these documents to be more
executives and experts. See, e.g., Geneva, 386 F.3d at 498 (“Although the industry
undoubtedly acknowledges that Coumadin competes to some extent with generics, generic
manufacturers treat each other as the entities which most directly affect their pricing and
output decisions.”); Staples II, 190 F. Supp. 3d at 132 (“Defendants’ own documents created
in the ordinary course of their business show that Defendants view themselves as the most
viable office supply vendors for large businesses in the United States. Not surprisingly,
Bazaarvoice, 2014 WL 203966, at *22 (product market of R & R platforms supported by the
fact that “in the materials [that the defendant] regularly sent to its board members, [the
defendant] only named other R & R platform providers in the slides titled ‘Competitive
Update’”); H & R Block, 833 F. Supp. 2d at 53 (“While, as defendants point out, parts of these
TaxACT documents also discuss the broader tax preparation industry, these documents make
32
The Court’s conclusion is not altered by evidence that Tapestry and Capri executives also
look to brands that are not accessible-luxury-handbag brands, such as Louis Vuitton and
Gucci, for design inspiration. See, e.g., Tr. at 165:24-166:7 (Idol); DX0853 at 7 (Michael
Kors presentation with Prada, Gucci, Yves Saint Laurant, and Fendi reference images).
Defendants’ designs can be inspired by a myriad of things, such as “theatre,” “the Ripley
television show on Netflix,” “art exhibit[s],” “the street,” and “people in an airport,” as Mr.
Kors testified. Tr. at 1088:7-20. Just because Defendants unsurprisingly look externally for
design inspiration does not mean that their sources are necessarily included in the relevant
market for antitrust purposes.
89
clear that TaxACT’s own view – and that conveyed by its investment bankers to potential
buyers – is that the company primarily competes in a DDIY market against Intuit and HRB
and that it develops its pricing and business strategy with that market and those competitors in
mind. These documents are strong evidence that DDIY is the relevant product market.”);
FTC v. Cardinal Health, Inc., 12 F. Supp. 2d 34, 49 (D.D.C. 1998) (“The Defendants’
documents show that the merging parties clearly viewed their economic competition to be
from their fellow drug wholesalers, and not from the other sources as suggested by the
Defendants at trial.”).
Even if it were true that Defendants, in some broad sense, view the entire category of
handbags as competitors, “the mere fact that a firm may be termed a competitor in the overall
marketplace does not necessarily require that it be included in the relevant product market for
antitrust purposes.” Deutsche Telekom, 439 F. Supp. 3d at 200 (citation omitted); accord
IQVIA, 710 F. Supp. 3d at 353. That there is a broad market for handbags overall does not
negate the existence of a relevant submarket of affordable-luxury handbags. See Brown Shoe,
370 U.S. at 325 (“[W]ithin [a] broad market, well-defined submarkets may exist which, in
themselves, constitute product markets for antitrust purposes.”); see, e.g., Cont’l Can, 378
U.S. at 457-58 (“That there may be a broader product market made up of metal, glass[,] and
other competing containers does not necessarily negative the existence of submarkets of cans,
glass, plastic[,] or cans and glass together[.]”); Alcoa, 377 U.S. at 275 (“Admittedly, there is
competition between insulated aluminum conductor and its copper counterpart, . . . [which] is
enough to justify grouping aluminum and copper conductors together in a single product
market. Yet . . . that degree of competitiveness does not preclude their division for purposes
shows that there is a broad fitness market that includes everything from VR apps to bicycles.
90
This in no way precludes the existence of a submarket constituting a relevant product market
for antitrust purposes.”); Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. v. May Dep’t Stores Co., 881 F. Supp. 860, 868
submarkets could not exist within that broad market[.]”); Ansell, Inc. v. Schmid Lab’ys, Inc.,
757 F. Supp. 467, 472 (D.N.J.) (“Defendants claim that condoms sold at wholesale within the
United States constitutes a relevant product market. Treating this assertion as accurate,
however, would not foreclose the possibility that the sale of latex condoms through retail
encompassing all wholesale sales, and that this submarket is itself a line of commerce for the
purposes of the Clayton Act.” (quotation marks omitted)), aff’d, 941 F.2d 1200 (3d Cir. 1991)
In a similar vein, Defendants suggest that cross-shopping by consumers – that is, the
fact that consumers may own handbags from mass-market, accessible-luxury, and true-luxury
brands – disproves the existence of distinct handbag submarkets. See, e.g., DFOF ¶¶ 24, 105-
106. The Court disagrees. Consumers may cross-shop across multiple markets of goods that
are functionally similar; that does not necessarily mean that consumers treat these goods as
reasonably interchangeable or that there is a high cross-elasticity of demand for these goods.
And because “[t]he goal in defining the relevant market is to identify the market participants
and competitive pressures that restrain an individual firm’s ability to raise prices or restrict
output,” Geneva, 386 F.3d at 496, a relevant market only “needs to include the competitors
that would ‘substantially constrain [the merged firm’s] price-increasing ability,’” Advocate,
841 F.3d at 469 (quoting AD/SAT v. Associated Press, 181 F.3d 216, 228 (2d Cir. 1999) (per
curiam)); accord IQVIA, 710 F. Supp. 3d at 353; Deutsche Telekom, 439 F. Supp. 3d at 200.
91
This proposition comports with common sense. Defendants stress that consumers have
several different types of handbags in their closet. Tr. 397:15-21 (Harris: testifying that
consumer research shows that there is a wide range of handbag brands in a consumer’s
closet); Tr. 48:15-17 (Defendant Opening: “Reality is that customers in their closets have a
Gucci bag, lined up next to a Coach bag, lined up next to a Calvin Klein bag.”). But next to
those handbags in the closet may also be several different items of clothing, such as hiking
pants, blue jeans, dress pants for work, and a formal pantsuit. Despite some functional
equivalence, as a matter of economic reality, the products may be recognized as distinct and,
more importantly for antitrust purposes, the prices set by one may not meaningfully constrain
the prices set by the others. See Tr. 1342:11-13 (Smith: “I have Polo shorts and dress shirts in
my closet, they're not substitutes for going to court and, you know, handbags are similar.”).
The case law confirms that cross-shopping is not necessarily indicative of reasonable
interchangeability. For example, in Sysco, the court found that “broadline food distribution”
was a relevant product market and rejected defendants’ argument that “the relevant market is
the entire $231 billion foodservice distribution industry, consisting not only of broadline food
distributors, but also specialty distributors, systems distributors, and cash-and-carry stores.”
113 F. Supp. 3d at 24-25, 37. The court noted that “Defendants [we]re indisputably correct
that customers buy across channels, especially independent restaurants,” and that “[t]hey
[we]re also unquestionably correct that some customers, particularly quick service and fast
food restaurant chains, are capable of moving large segments of business from broadline to
systems.” Id. at 30. The court reasoned, however, that “the fact that Defendants sometimes
compete against other channels of distribution in the larger marketplace does not mean that
those alternative channels belong in the relevant product market for purposes of merger
analysis.” Id. at 30-31; see also, e.g., FTC v. Whole Foods Mkt., Inc., 548 F.3d 1028, 1040
92
(D.C. Cir. 2008) (opinion of Brown, J.) (“The fact that a customer might buy a stick of gum at
a supermarket or at a convenience store does not mean there is no definable groceries market.
Here, cross-shopping is entirely consistent with the existence of a core group of [premium,
natural, and organic supermarket] customers.”); Google, 2024 WL 3647498, at *85 (“The fact
that advertisers may move money between search and social ads to achieve varying goals does
not make them substitutes.”); IQVIA, 710 F. Supp. 3d at 357-59 (similar); FTC v. Microsoft
Corp., 681 F. Supp. 3d 1069, 1087 (N.D. Cal. 2023) (“That customers may cross-shop
between consoles and PCs does not demonstrate reasonable interchangeability of use or the
cross-elasticity of demand between the product itself and substitutes for it.” (quotation marks
omitted)); Visa, 163 F. Supp. 2d at 335, 338 (finding that “general purpose cards” was a
relevant product market, and rejecting defendants’ argument that “the relevant market is one
which includes all methods of payment including cash, checks[,] and debit cards”; “although
it is literally true that, in a general sense, cash and checks compete with general purpose cards
as an option for payment by consumers and that growth in payments via cards takes share
from cash and checks in some instances, cash and checks do not drive many of the means of
whether there are wholly separate groups of customers for accessible-luxury handbags. See,
e.g., DFOF ¶¶ 24, 105-106. If distinct customers were dispositive of the Brown Shoe analysis,
there would be no need for the other six factors. Moreover, just because someone owns a
Louis Vuitton bag, a Coach bag, and a Zara bag does not mean that person views those bags
evidence in the record bears out), a consumer may buy one true-luxury handbag “
93
” and then buy an accessible-luxury handbag or two every year: “
” PX8168 at 194:06-194:18.
In sum, the Court rejects Defendant’s arguments that the FTC’s market definition is
fundamentally incompatible with the commercial realities of the handbag industry, and that
submarkets.
B. Anticompetitive Effects
“After the relevant product and geographic markets are determined, a prima facie case
is established if the plaintiff proves that the merger will probably lead to anticompetitive
effects in that market.” Hackensack, 30 F.4th at 172 (quotation marks omitted). As noted, a
plaintiff usually does so “by showing that the transaction in question will significantly
increase market concentration, thereby creating a presumption that the transaction is likely to
omitted); accord IQVIA, 710 F. Supp. 3d at 377. Here, the FTC presents powerful
quantitative evidence that the merger of Tapestry and Capri would result in the combined firm
holding excessive market share and market concentration, thus establishing a presumption that
percentage share of the relevant market, and results in a significant increase in the
that it must be enjoined in the absence of evidence . . . showing that the merger is not likely to
have such anticompetitive effects.” Phila. Nat’l Bank, 374 U.S. at 363; accord United States
94
v. Phillipsburg Nat’l Bank & Tr. Co., 399 U.S. 350, 366-67 (1970); United States v. Waste
Mgmt., Inc., 743 F.2d 976, 981 (2d Cir. 1984); F. & M. Schaefer Corp. v. C. Schmidt & Sons,
Inc., 597 F.2d 814, 816 (2d Cir. 1979) (per curiam); Polypore Int’l, Inc. v. FTC, 686 F.3d
1208, 1213-16 (11th Cir. 2012); IQVIA, 710 F. Supp. 3d at 378-79; Bertelsmann, 646 F. Supp.
the smallest market share which would still be considered to threaten undue concentration,”
the Supreme Court has stated that “30% presents that threat.” Phila. Nat’l Bank, 374 U.S. at
364; see IQVIA, 710 F. Supp. 3d at 378-79 (rejecting the argument that “the 30% threshold is
After defining the relevant product market, Dr. Smith calculated the pre-merger and
post-merger market shares. Smith Rep. § IV. For his market share calculations, Dr. Smith
uses sales data from the parties and third parties in the accessible-luxury-handbag market
where available. Id. ¶¶ 181-185. Where data was unavailable for third parties, Dr. Smith used
respective market shares. Id. ¶ 185. Using this method, Dr. Smith calculated that Tapestry’s
acquisition of Capri would result in the combined firm accounting for an approximately 59
33
Although “the Philadelphia National Bank presumption . . . remains alive and well in
horizontal merger analysis,” Herbert Hovenkamp & Carl Shapiro, Horizontal Mergers,
Market Structure, and Burdens of Proof, 127 Yale L.J. 1996, 2018 (2018), one aspect of the
decision appears to have been jettisoned. Philadelphia National Bank stated that, to overcome
the presumption of anticompetitive effects, there must be “evidence clearly showing that the
merger is not likely to have such anticompetitive effects.” 374 U.S. at 363 (emphasis added).
In subsequent decisions, the Supreme Court “discarded Philadelphia [National] Bank’s
insistence that a defendant ‘clearly’ disprove anticompetitive effect, and instead described the
rebuttal burden simply in terms of a ‘showing.’” Baker Hughes, 908 F.2d at 990-91; see
AMR, 2023 WL 2563897, at *2 (citing Baker Hughes with approval).
95
Deutsche Telekom, 439 F. Supp. 3d at 206 (same for post-merger market share between 34.4
Dr. Smith also noted in his report that he reviewed ordinary-course documents from
Capri tracking the Michael Kors luxury leather goods sales at the “Total Market” level and the
“Accessible Luxury Mkt” level. Smith Rep. ¶ 175. Per Capri’s own calculations, Michael
Kors comprised percent, Coach comprised percent, and Kate Spade comprised
brands would account for 77 percent of the market – more than double the 30 percent
threshold. Smith Rep. ¶¶ 176-177, 180. Dr. Smith also pulled data from Tapestry documents
that purported to separately identify and calculate shares for “accessible luxury” brands.
Smith Rep. ¶ 178. Using that data, Dr. Smith calculated that post-merger, Defendants’
combined brands would account for 83 percent of the accessible-luxury market. Smith Rep.
¶ 180 & tbl.6. Although the Court need not rely on these figures, these calculations further
illustrate the large market share – well over 30 percent – that Defendants would hold post-
merger.
b. The HHI
Courts also look to the Herfindahl-Hirshman Index (the “HHI”), “a tool commonly
contemplated merger. IQVIA, 710 F. Supp. 3d at 377. The HHI is calculated by summing the
squares of each market participant’s share of the relevant market. Tr. at 523:25-524:6
(Smith); Steves & Sons, Inc. v. JELD-WEN, Inc., 988 F.3d 690, 704 (4th Cir. 2021); FTC v.
H.J. Heinz Co., 246 F.3d 708, 716 n.9 (D.C. Cir. 2001). By squaring individual firms’ market
shares, “[t]he HHI takes into account the relative size and distribution of the firms in a market,
increasing both as the number of firms in the market decreases and as the disparity in size
97
among those firms increases.” Wilhelmsen, 341 F. Supp. 3d at 58-59 (citation omitted);
accord Tronox, 332 F. Supp. 3d at 207. “Under the convention commonly used in antitrust
that market shares are expressed in percentages rather than fractions (e.g., a 10 percent share
is expressed by the percentage 10 rather than the fraction 0.10), the HHI ranges from close to
zero for competitively structured markets up to 10,000 for a monopoly.” Areeda &
Hovenkamp ¶ 931d3. For example, “a market with five firms of share A = 30, B = 30, C = 20,
D = 10, E = 10, would have an HHI of 900 + 900 + 400 + 100 + 100, or 2400.” Id. ¶ 930a.
“In determining whether the HHI demonstrates a high market concentration, [courts]
consider both the post-merger HHI number and the increase in the HHI resulting from the
merger.” Penn State, 838 F.3d at 346-47; accord Saint Alphonsus Med. Ctr.-Nampa Inc. v. St.
Luke’s Health Sys., Ltd., 778 F.3d 775, 786 (9th Cir. 2015); Bertelsmann, 646 F. Supp. 3d at
37. A plaintiff “can establish a prima facie case simply by showing a high market
concentration based on HHI numbers.” Penn State, 838 F.3d at 347; accord Saint Alphonsus,
778 F.3d at 785; H & R Block, 833 F. Supp. 2d at 71. Under the 2023 Merger Guidelines,
which the Court deems persuasive on this point, markets with an HHI greater than 1,000 are
considered “concentrated,” markets with an HHI greater than 1,800 are considered “highly
concentrated,” and a change of more than 100 points is regarded as a “significant increase.”
2023 Merger Guidelines §§ 2.1, 2.4 n.21. “A merger that creates or further consolidates a
highly concentrated market that involves an increase in the HHI of more than 100 points is
(footnote omitted). 35
35
Since the introduction of the HHI to the Merger Guidelines in 1982, nearly every iteration
has used these same figures as the relevant thresholds, see 2023 Merger Guidelines § 2.1 n.15
(citing 1982, 1992, and 1997 versions), and courts have routinely cited them in assessing the
effects of a merger on market concentration, see, e.g., Chi. Bridge, 534 F.3d at 431; H.J.
98
Here, Dr. Smith calculated the post-merger HHI to be 3,646, with a merger-induced
change in HHI of 1,449. Smith Rep. ¶ 186. As for the post-merger HHI, 3,646 is double the
1,800 threshold considered to be “highly concentrated” by the 2023 Merger Guidelines. 2023
Merger Guidelines § 2.1. And with respect to the merger-induced change in HHI, 1,499 is
obviously far greater than the 100 points presumed to substantially lessen competition under
the 2023 Merger Guidelines. Id. § 2.1. In sum, these HHI levels are more than high enough
merger market share and market concentration. Instead, Defendants claim that Dr. Smith’s
reliance on NPD categorizations and data as the core of his market share calculations results
in several flaws that overemphasize Defendants’ market share. Defendants claim that Dr.
Smith’s market-share calculations are flawed because they: (1) fail to account for preowned
handbag sales; (2) exclude all handbags categorized as “designer,” “moderate,” and “better”
by NPD; (3) exclude brands that NPD does not track; and (4) utilize unreasonable estimates
and projections of sales data for a significant number of brands for which he only has NPD
data. DFOF ¶¶ 150-161. These critiques do not alter the Court’s conclusion.
As a threshold matter, these critiques underscore Defendants’ general view that Dr.
certain competitors. But “the mere fact that a firm may be termed a competitor in the overall
Heinz, 246 F.3d at 716; Univ. Health, 938 F.2d at 1211 n.12. In this respect, the 2010
Horizontal Merger Guidelines were an outlier by adopting higher thresholds. See Staples II,
190 F. Supp. 3d at 128 (describing the thresholds under the 2010 Horizontal Merger
Guidelines); see also Areeda & Hovenkamp ¶ 901.1b (“The belief that the 2010 concentration
levels were too tolerant seems well substantiated.”).
99
marketplace does not necessarily require that it be included in the relevant product market for
antitrust purposes.” Deutsche Telekom, 439 F. Supp. 3d at 200 (citation omitted). And it is
fundamental that “even if alternative submarkets exist . . . , or if there are broader markets that
might be analyzed, the viability of such additional markets does not render the one identified
by the [plaintiff] unusable.” Bertelsmann, 646 F. Supp. 3d at 28. Dr. Smith conducted an
HMT that this Court finds to be reliable. If the market defined by Dr. Smith were too narrow,
the HMT would fail – that is, he would find that it would be unprofitable for a hypothetical
monopolist in the market as defined to raise prices by at least five percent. See Optronic, 20
F.4th at 482 n.1; AmEx I, 838 F.3d at 199. Yet Dr. Smith’s candidate market passed the
HMT – by leaps and bounds. Thus, the candidate market is an appropriate market to evaluate
the anticompetitive effects here (and therefore, to evaluate the post-merger market share and
defined here, comparisons of the Defendants’ market shares as against a broader market are
irrelevant. Cf. DFOF ¶ 161 (explaining that Professor Scott Morton calculated market shares
by the Court here). Nevertheless, the Court proceeds to analyze in more detail particular
criticisms raised by the Defendants regarding the exclusion and inclusion of certain handbags
from the market and Dr. Smith’s reliance on the NPD data.
Defendants take issue with the fact that Dr. Smith did not include pre-owned handbags
in his relevant market. Numerous Tapestry and Capri witnesses testified generally that “resale
platforms have been an increased source of competition” over an unspecified period of time.
Tr. at 135:24-136:2 (Idol); see also Tr. at 235:14-236:1 (Newman: resale has “become a
phenomenon” and is viewed “as competition”); Tr. at 407:18-408:1 (Harris: “the resale of
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used handbags . . . compet[es] against Tapestry’s handbags” and the resale market is
“growing”); Tr. at 481:19-482:19 (Kahn: resale market is growing, and Coach is “absolutely”
competing with the resale of “traditional European luxury that was preowned”); Tr. at 962:25-
963:2 (Giberson: “the resale market . . . has been really a phenom in the last couple of years
that’s impacted the handbag category specifically”); Tr. at 979:24-980:7 (Giberson: “the
resale channel in the handbag industry” is “formidable” and “consumers consider used or
resold handbags to be potential substitutes for new handbags”); Tr. at 1138:10-12 (Gennette:
“resale . . . is exploding”); Tr. at 1245:9-15 (Scott Morton: “the used market has just really
taken off in recent years”). The recent growth of the resale market for handbags, according to
Defendants, undermines Dr. Smith’s market analysis by excluding a portion of products that
compete in the relevant market, thereby exaggerating anti-competitive effects. The Court
First, there is insufficient evidence that the resale market for handbags has increased
so dramatically over the past several years to render Dr. Smith’s market share calculations
unreliable. Although many witnesses testified vaguely that the resale market has generally
grown, Defendants failed to present reliable evidence quantifying that growth. During the
hearing, Defendants’ expert Professor Scott Morton presented a demonstrative with a chart
that seemed to indicate that sales of preowned handbags nearly doubled from 2020 to 2023.
See Tr. at 1245:13-1246:8 (Scott Morton); DD0028-15. In presenting this opinion during the
hearing, Professor Scott Morton was missing data from a major reseller, , which
she testified was “nonexistent in 2020.” Tr. at 1247:14-17 (Scott Morton). Yet it is unclear
whether that claim is accurate. See Tr. at 1288:10-12 (Scott Morton). The company’s
website – which Professor Scott Morton and Giberson cite in their respective expert reports,
see Scott Morton Rep. ¶ 98 n.190; Giberson Rep. ¶ 21(e) n.64 – states that the company was
101
“no basis” to include preowned handbags in his relevant market, even if he included an
additional $400 million in sales in the denominator of his calculation of market shares, the
merging parties’ market shares would still well exceed 50 percent. Tr. at 1348:1-8 (Smith).
Defendants argue in their papers that it is immaterial that Dr. Smith’s market shares are not
substantially affected by the addition of $400 million in sales of used handbags, because “a
subset of eight resellers” have annual sales of “nearly $1.2 billion.” DFOF ¶ 160 n.20.
Putting aside the fact that the majority of those $1.2 billion in sales are for handbags selling
for over $1,000, and therefore are unlikely to be appropriately within the market here, this
critique also falls flat, because Dr. Smith testified that the merging parties’ market shares
would still exceed 45 percent if he added an additional $1.2 billion in sales to the
denominator – again, well in excess of the 30 percent threshold. Tr. at 1348:9-13 (Smith);
DFOF ¶ 160 n.20. For these reasons, Defendants’ arguments regarding the resale market are
unpersuasive.
Defendants also assert that Dr. Smith’s market share analysis is flawed because he
excludes sales of handbags sold by brands that NPD categorizes as “designer,” “‘moderate,”
and “better,” even when the prices of those handbags overlap with the prices that Defendants
charge or that are charged by others in the accessible luxury market, and he excludes sales by
handbag brands that NPD does not track. DFOF ¶¶ 158, 159.
Again, as explained above, the Court credits Dr. Smith’s market definition, which
passes the HMT by a large margin. That Defendants now point to certain handbags that could
importance of resale to department stores today,” Tr. at 1139:14-16 (Gennette), but was
unable to answer questions about what particular data in the document represented, Tr. at
1149:1-1150:4 (Gennette). The Court therefore does not give weight to his opinion on
specific parameters of the resale market.
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possibly have been included in another relevant market, or certain handbags that they assert
should have been excluded, does not mean that Dr. Smith’s market share calculations for this
relevant market are incorrect. This critique also misunderstands Dr. Smith’s approach to
defining the market. Although accessible-luxury handbag brands typically charge prices
below $1,000 and generally not less than $100, Dr. Smith does not define the market by a
hard price range. Smith Reply Rep. ¶ 135. Thus, the existence of certain handbags within this
general price range that are not in the relevant market (and, on the other hand, the existence of
certain handbags outside of this general price range that are in the relevant market) does not
undermine the market shares calculated by Dr. Smith. Cf. Bertelsmann, 646 F. Supp. 3d at 51
(self-published books not a competitive constraint on the market for anticipated top-selling
books even when certain self-published books were top-sellers, and therefore irrelevant for
Finally, Defendants assert that Dr. Smith’s market share analysis was flawed because
of his estimation approach for sales data for certain portions of his market share analysis. Dr.
Smith had actual sales data for the merging parties and some third parties in the accessible
luxury handbag market. Dr. Smith also used NPD’s data for wholesale data for all of the
accessible luxury handbag firms. Smith Rep. ¶ 184. For firms in the relevant market for
which Dr. Smith did not have actual sales data, he estimated those firms’ non-wholesale sales
by extrapolating from their wholesale sales as reported by NPD. Smith Rep. ¶ 185.
Specifically, Dr. Smith supplemented NPD’s wholesale data with an estimate of sales through
the non-wholesale channels, calculated based on the average percentage of sales by channel –
here, Dr. Smith found that the average ratio of wholesale sales to total sales is approximately
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Defendants claim that this approach was flawed. They note that Dr. Smith lacked
actual non-wholesale sales for approximately 200 companies included in his relevant market.
DFOF ¶¶ 150-154. Defendants further note that for certain companies, Dr. Smith’s
projections of sales for certain handbag brands are incorrect as compared to actual sales data.
See DFOF ¶ 154 (For example, “Dr. Smith estimated $ for Kurt Geiger, but its
Chief Financial Officer testified that Kurt Geiger’s U.S. handbag revenues in 2023 were $
”). Defendants also point to extrapolations by Dr. Smith that resulted in obviously
erroneous estimates, such as the calculation that J Crew’s estimated handbag sales in 2023
were a total of $197. DFOF ¶ 153; Tr. 1390:15-19 (Smith). Defendants also point out that
Dr. Smith’s methodology would have underestimated the revenues of Coach (had Dr. Smith
applied his estimation methodology to Coach). DFOF ¶ 157; Tr. 1383:2-9. These arguments
do not undermine the overall reliability of Dr. Smith’s conclusions regarding market share.
Defendants do not claim that Dr. Smith erred in finding that the average percentage of
sales though wholesale channels for brands in this market is approximately 40 percent. Cf. Tr.
at 1270:13-24 (Scott Morton: agreeing that this figure “is the average for the . . . brands he
was working with”). Rather, Defendants simply point to particular examples where his
estimation approach did not comport with other evidence or resulted in clearly inaccurate
results for some brands. However, as Defendants’ examples show, some of Dr. Smith’s
estimates underrepresented total sales and some overestimated total sales, which is not
surprising, given that the approach is based on averages. Moreover, Dr. Smith testified that
“approximately . . . 75 percent or so of the revenues that [he] used in the share calculation are
actual sales data from the parties and third parties,” Tr. at 564:6-13, and that “less than 10
percent” of the portion of the sales in his market calculations relied on imputed sales, id. at
565:2-7. Most importantly, Defendants’ post-merger market shares calculated by Dr. Smith
105
are so significant that even if Dr. Smith underestimated the market shares held by some third
parties, the Court agrees with Dr. Smith and the FTC that the post-merger market share held
But they need not be. A leading antitrust treatise describes the proper approach:
[T]he plaintiff has the burden of proving the violation. The fact
that share data may be incomplete, however, does not
necessarily mean that the plaintiff has failed. It depends on the
apparent significance of what is unknown. If the apparent
market shares are barely sufficient to cross the threshold of
presumptive illegality, then the failure to count additional sales
by others making the market larger would be fatal to the
plaintiff’s case. In sharp contrast, where the defendant’s
apparent aggregate share is, say, 80 percent in a concentrated
market, the true magnitude of total sales could be doubled
without making the merger small enough to be lawful. If there
is no satisfactory way to make a reasonable estimate of what has
been left out, the defendant must prevail. But where we know
that what has been omitted cannot be large enough to make the
defendant’s share lawfully small, the plaintiff should prevail,
notwithstanding uncertainty about the defendant’s exact share.
Areeda & Hovenkamp ¶ 929d. Here, particularly in light of the high market-share and HHI
figures, the Court is convinced that the FTC “should prevail, notwithstanding uncertainty
37
Defendants also argue that NPD does not report actual wholesale data, but “instead [reports]
a mashup of sales data and projections.” DFOF ¶ 151. Defendants point to a portion of the
NPD user guide, which states that NPD “projects the data it receives from its retail/data
partners to a larger universe that includes stores that are not included in the panel,” and that
“projections may not accurately represent market trends within non-panel retailers/data
partners.” Id. (quotation marks omitted) (quoting PX3001 at 4). Defendants therefore assert
that Dr. Smith’s reliance on the NPD data renders his analysis unreliable. There was no
testimony regarding these provisions of the NPD User Guide and, on its face, the guide’s
reference to projections and trends for other non-panel retailers does not establish that the
NPD does not receive actual sales data from its panel retailers. Tapestry and third-party
accessible-luxury-handbag sellers regularly rely on NPD data in the ordinary course, see
supra at pp. 75-76, and it was appropriate for Dr. Smith to do so here.
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d. Final Analysis
As explained, a plaintiff that has properly defined a relevant market can establish a
prima facie case under Section 7 by showing a sufficiently high post-merger market share or
sufficiently large post-merger HHI numbers. See, e.g., Phila. Nat’l Bank, 374 U.S. at 363
(market share); Penn State, 838 F.3d at 347 (HHI); Saint Alphonsus, 778 F.3d at 785-86
(HHI); Waste Mgmt., 743 F.2d at 981 (market share); IQVIA, 710 F. Supp. 3d at 377-82
(both); Bertelsmann, 646 F. Supp. 3d at 35-38 (both). Because the FTC has shown both a
sufficiently (and significantly) high post-merger market share (59 percent) and a sufficiently
(and significantly) large post-merger HHI of 3,646 with a merger-induced change in HHI of
1,449, the Court finds that the FTC has established a strong prima facie case under Section
7. 38
II. Rebuttal
At Step 2 of the Section 7 analysis, “the burden shifts to the defendant to present
evidence that the prima facie case inaccurately predicts the relevant transaction’s probable
effect on future competition, or to sufficiently discredit the evidence underlying the prima
facie case.” AT&T, 916 F.3d at 1032 (quotation marks and citation omitted). “The more
compelling the prima facie case, the more evidence the defendant must present to rebut it
successfully.” Baker Hughes, 908 F.2d at 991; accord Deutsche Telekom, 439 F. Supp. 3d at
207. A defendant’s rebuttal case may address matters such as “the ease of entry into the
market, the trend of the market either toward or away from concentration, the continuation of
38
The Court recognizes that Section 7 plaintiffs, including the FTC here, often “present other
evidence as part of the prima facie case.” Saint Alphonsus, 778 F.3d at 786; accord Illumina,
Inc. v. FTC, 88 F.4th 1036, 1057 (5th Cir. 2023). For the sake of organizational clarity, the
Court will consider the FTC’s evidence of additional anticompetitive effects after reviewing
Defendants’ rebuttal case.
107
active price competition, or unique economic circumstances that undermine the predictive
value of the government’s statistics.” Aetna, 240 F. Supp. 3d at 19 (quotation marks omitted).
the FTC’s prima facie case, Defendants seek to rebut the prima facie case on three principal
grounds: (1) barriers to market entry and expansion are low; (2) Tapestry’s emphasis on brand
autonomy will ensure continued competition between Coach, Kate Spade, and Michael Kors;
and (3) the merger has a procompetitive rationale of revitalizing the Michael Kors brand.
Opp. at 33-38; DCOL ¶¶ 64-76. Defendants also argued throughout the preliminary
injunction hearing that consumers, not handbag sellers, set prices of handbags, which the
Court views as an additional rebuttal argument. The Court addresses these arguments in turn.
According to Defendants, the FTC’s “market share statistics overstate the transaction’s
potential competitive effects because competitors can (and already do) quickly enter, expand,
and reposition.” Opp. at 34. The Court is not persuaded. Based on the evidence presented,
the Court finds that potential entry, expansion, and repositioning would not constrain the post-
raise prices above the competitive level,” City of New York v. Grp. Health Inc., 649 F.3d 151,
155 (2d Cir. 2011) (citation omitted), “[b]arriers to entry are important in evaluating whether
market concentration statistics accurately reflect the pre- and likely postmerger competitive
picture,” H.J. Heinz, 246 F.3d at 717 n.13. “If entry barriers are substantial, a market
participant may be able to achieve or maintain market or monopoly power and use that power
anticompetitively because its actions can go unchecked by new competitors.” Reazin v. Blue
Cross & Blue Shield of Kan., Inc., 899 F.2d 951, 974 (10th Cir. 1990). Conversely, “[i]f
108
barriers in an industry are low, new entrants into the industry will appear when [a firm] raises
its prices” above a competitive level. Chi. Bridge, 534 F.3d at 436 (citation omitted). Based
on these principles, “[a]s part of its rebuttal case, a defendant may introduce evidence that
entry by new competitors will ameliorate the feared anticompetitive effects of a merger.”
Aetna, 240 F. Supp. 3d at 52. For example, in Waste Management, a case relied upon by the
Defendants here, the defendant rebutted the plaintiff’s prima facie case by showing that
competitors could easily enter the market for hauling solid waste in Dallas; this ease of entry
constrained the defendant from raising its prices above a competitive level after the merger.
Pointing to Waste Management, Defendants reject the proposition that “entry must be
of the size and scale to replace Michael Kors’[s] footprint today.” Opp. at 34 (emphasis
omitted). Defendants contend that the proper question is “whether remaining and potential
competitors have the collective ability to constrain” Tapestry after the merger. Id. (quotation
marks and omitted). Defendants also argue that entry into the handbag market “is constant
and relatively easy” and that, therefore, “there is an adequate competitive constraint on the
merged entity.” Id. at 34-35; see also DCOL ¶¶ 66-72. In essence, Defendants argue that
even if the market cannot replace Michael Kors, it can recreate Michael Kors in the aggregate.
The FTC concedes that a “collection of companies can constrain defendants” after a merger
but argues that it will not happen here. Tr. at 1444:10-11 (FTC closing).
The Court agrees with the parties that the main question in this case is whether
existing and potential handbag companies have the collective ability to constrain the post-
merger Tapestry, as opposed to whether a new Michael Kors-sized brand will soon emerge.
But the Court disagrees with Defendants’ argument that existing and potential competitors
will constrain the post-merger Tapestry’s market power to such an extent as to undermine the
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presumption of anticompetitive effects established by the FTC’s prima facie case. “Entry of
competitors into a market [or expansion of existing competitors] can offset anticompetitive
effects . . . only if the entrance [or expansion] is timely, likely, and sufficient in its magnitude,
character, and scope to deter or counteract the competitive effects of concern.” Sanford, 926
F.3d at 965 (quotation marks omitted). The Court finds that entry and expansion into the
market for affordable-luxury handbags will not be timely, likely, and sufficient in its
Waste Management’s holding rested on the factual finding that “entry into the product market
[wa]s easy – indeed, individuals operating out of their homes c[ould] compete successfully
with any other company.” 743 F.2d at 978 (quotation marks omitted); see id. at 982 (“A
person wanting to start in the trash collection business can acquire a truck, a few containers,
drive the truck himself, and operate out of his home. A great deal depends on the individual’s
personal initiative, and whether he has the desire and energy to perform a high quality of
service. If he measures up well by these standards, he can compete successfully with any
other company for a portion of the trade, even though a small portion.”). In the handbag
industry, however, the Court finds that the barriers to entry are relatively high such that
potential entrants and expanders will not adequately “fill the competitive void that will result”
if Tapestry and Capri combine. H & R Block, 833 F. Supp. 2d at 73 (citation omitted).
There are two especially significant types of barriers that the Court addresses in turn:
(1) barriers related to supply chain; and (2) barriers related to data and marketing. The Court
110
consulting history). To be sure, Giberson is “a partner at a sourcing company called Edit
Consulting, [which] help[s] match people that want to make bags or leather goods with
factories, particularly factories in India.” Tr. at 958:5-11 (Giberson). And she has “been in
hundreds of factories [that make handbags] all over the world.” Id. at 958:12-14 (Giberson).
But in both her expert report and her testimony, Giberson left ambiguous the nature and extent
of her work for Edit Consulting, which makes it difficult for the Court to rely on her opinions
based on that work. Likewise, visits to unnamed factories in an unspecified capacity provide
a shallow well of probative experience on which to draw. Therefore, the Court gives very
little weight to Giberson’s testimony about manufacturing and supply chains. See Pope, 687
F.3d at 581 (“A factfinder may certainly consider the bases for an expert’s opinion and may
accord the opinion less, or even no, weight if the record suggests that the bases are defective,
Am. Secs., LLC, 691 F. Supp. 2d 448, 476 (S.D.N.Y. 2010) (vague, general, and conclusory
references to “experience” do not provide a reliable basis for expert testimony); 305 E. 24th
Owners Corp. v. Parman Co., 799 F. Supp. 353, 356 (S.D.N.Y. 1992) (not crediting expert
witness’s opinion that was not “one his relevant experience could allow him to draw”).
proposition that “[t]hird-party logistics companies make it easy for companies to quickly enter
113
Id. at 125:09-125:17
basis, if any, can opine on the ability of upcoming brands to enter and expand
through third-party logistics companies. Even if the Court credits statements about
Id. at 152:25-153:20.
Peter Charles, Tapestry’s chief supply-chain officer. Charles testified as a fact witness, but he
not only at Tapestry but also at Tory Burch, Kenneth Cole, Jones Apparel Group, Stride Rite,
Timberland, and Clarks Shoes. Tr. at 1009:14-1011:20 (Charles). Although the Court found
Charles credible in describing some aspects of Tapestry’s supply chain, the Court gives little
weight to his testimony on matters as to which he has little to no relevant experience, such as
barriers to entry for nascent handbag brands. See JTH Tax, 62 F.4th at 671 (when serving as
factfinder, a district court is “entitled, just as a jury would be, to believe some parts and
disbelieve other parts of the testimony of any given witness” (citation omitted)).
Charles testified that “in [his] experience, the barriers to entering this industry are very
low. . . . [W]hat you really need to get into the business really is a sketch, a brand, and a
design idea, and a business plan, and increasingly, you then connect into one of those
114
manufacturers in Asia.” Tr. at 1020:14-20; see also id. at 1025:3-12 (Charles: “the barriers to
entry in this industry for someone who wants to start a new handbag brand and bring it to
market from a supply chain product development standpoint” are “extremely low”). He
likewise relied solely on his “experience” in stating that it is “[n]ot very difficult” for a new
designer to connect with a manufacturer and produce a prototype; that manufacturers “can
provide product development” and “material sourcing capabilities” to new entrants; that “most
of the owners of these factories” have an interest in “see[ing] new entrants coming in because
“manufacturers like taking bets on new entrants”; and that “many of these owners of these
factories . . . will invest their time, energy, and money in supporting new designers getting
Charles, however, has no experience working for upstart handbag brands; he has
worked only for established handbag brands and/or brands with little to no involvement in the
handbag industry. See id. at 1009:14-1011:20. Charles also does not assess entry conditions
in the U.S. handbag market in the course of his work at Tapestry. Id. at 1033:9-12 (Charles).
And although Charles has plenty of experience transacting with third-party manufacturers
from the big-name brand’s side of the table, he has no experience making business decisions
for those manufacturers. Nor does Charles provide any other basis for these claims. The
Court therefore gives little weight to Charles’s generalizations about ease of entry and
manufacturers’ perceptions of new brands because he lacks the required relevant experience.
The Court gives greater credence to the testimony it heard from recent industry entrants about
the genuine and continuing difficulties they face in sourcing, manufacturing, and distributing
their products.
115
Several other parts of Charles’s testimony undermine, rather than support, Defendants’
claim that there are no supply chain-related barriers to entry. For example, although Charles
stated that Tapestry does not have “exclusive arrangements” or “long-term contracts” with its
manufacturers and instead “work[s] on a basis of purchase order to purchase order” with
“about 18 individual companies,” he also testified that Tapestry has “many, many strategic,
long-term strategic relationships with [its] factories that go back in some cases over 30 years,”
and that “the genesis of [these relationships] come[s] out of the Coach brand.” Id. at 1022:4-
14, 1023:23-1024:1. Of course, a new entrant or a peripheral industry player looking to grow
The Court finds it significant that Charles emphasized, at multiple points during his
testimony, the “skill sets” of people in Tapestry’s “supply chain organization.” Tr. at
1030:22-1031:2. Charles testified that Tapestry “work[s] hand-in-hand with [its third-party]
manufacturing partners to produce the product”: “we manage the quality, we manage the
delivery, [and] we manage . . . the cost.” Id. at 1027:19-1028:3; accord id. at 1037:14-16
(Charles: “We don’t have a vertically integrated supply chain, but we . . . manage all tiers of
the supply chain at Tapestry.”). A key part of this, Charles explained, is that Tapestry “ha[s] a
system of repeatable standard operating procedures . . . and standards that we apply into our
products [and] into those third-party manufacturers.” Id. at 1026:8-13; see also id. at 1027:2-
7 (Charles: “[W]e apply very rigorous quality standards and repeatable standard operating
procedures into our manufacturing product from development through engineering through
raw material management into production to create that final product that we believe meets
the aspirations of our consumers.”); accord id. at 464:15-465:19 (Kahn: “I generally believe
that our facilities that we’ve worked and trained for more than a dozen years in some cases
provide a beautiful crafted product at scale”; “The quality of trained operators matters in
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handbag manufacturing,” and the manufacturers that make Coach’s more complicated bags
“cannot be easily replaced”). If Charles is right about the importance of significant and
longstanding internal supply-chain procedures in maintaining product quality (and the Court
credits his testimony on this point), then the lack of such procedures, and of a history of
Defendants also cite Charles’s testimony for the proposition that “[l]arge amounts of
capacity exist among experienced manufacturers” for new handbag brands to use. DFOF
¶ 30. It is true that “[t]he use of existing or idle facilities can facilitate entry into a market.”
FTC v. CCC Holdings Inc., 605 F. Supp. 2d 26, 51 (D.D.C. 2009) (quotation marks omitted).
But “economic realities may prevent a new entrant” from using these facilities. Id. Here, the
evidence regarding existing facilities cannot bear the weight that Defendants assign it.
Charles testified that “there’s an excess amount of capacity sitting in the marketplace
today.” Tr. at 1022:25-1023:2. To justify this claim, Charles stated that although
million unit delta between what [Tapestry] actually use[s] and what [third-party manufacturers
are] offering in terms of capacity.” Id. at 1023:2-3, 1024:15-21; see also id. at 1023:2-8
(Charles).
Citing only this testimony (as well as three other pieces of evidence that do not discuss
excess capacity), Defendants assert that “third-party contractors . . . collectively have millions
of units of excess capacity available for use by other handbag brands, regardless of size or
sitting there untapped, just waiting for anyone with a dream of making a handbag. This
suggestion is unsupported. Charles initially stated that Tapestry is offered much more
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are able to turn away smaller and, accordingly, less desirable offers). See, e.g., PX8168 at
In short, the Court finds that the difficulties in establishing and maintaining a supply
chain constitute a barrier to entry into the market for accessible-luxury handbags. Even
though this barrier may not forestall entry entirely, it will likely limit brands’ ability to enter
and/or expand in a manner that is “timely, likely, and sufficient in its magnitude, character,
and scope” to restrain the post-merger Tapestry. Sanford, 926 F.3d at 965 (citation omitted).
Bridge, 534 F.3d at 439 (quotation marks omitted). The post-merger Tapestry will have two
types of superior resources that potential entrants and expanders will lack: large troves of
understanding your consumer, research, all of the elements that go into produc[ing] a popular
brand.” Tr. at 1227:17-22. The Court finds that the time, effort, and expenses required for
new and emerging brands to obtain essential consumer data and deploy effective marketing
39
In a portion of his testimony that Defendants do not cite, Charles states that, based on
“market research” and “terrific market intelligence” provided by “significant teams on the
ground,” he knows that “there are other manufacturers that have capacity for growing brands.”
Tr. at 1024:2-12. Even if Defendants had cited this testimony, it would not change the
Court’s conclusion. Such vague references to “market research” and “market intel” – without
providing any specifics or details as to the substance of that research, let alone presenting
evidence of that research to the Court – deprive this testimony of persuasive value. The same
goes for other allusions by Defendants’ executives to potentially probative evidence that
Defendants have not placed into the record. See, e.g., id. at 322:18-20 (Crevoiserat).
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First, Tapestry possesses a wealth of consumer data that up-and-coming firms will
lack. The pre-merger Tapestry already has “a lot of data,” Tr. at 307:4-5 (Crevoiserat),
including at least 180 million “uniquely identified customer 360 profiles,” PX1301 at 11
(August 2022 M&A strategy presentation to Tapestry board). Tapestry’s main vehicle for
collecting and analyzing this information is its Global Strategy and Consumer Insights Group,
oversees consumer research, brand-strategy planning, and long-range planning for each of
Tapestry’s brands and for Tapestry overall, Tr. at 359:12-24, 360:10-16 (Harris); (PX5027 at
13:12-17 (Harris). For its part, Capri’s database has information on roughly 90 million
consumers, of which 70 million are Michael Kors consumers. Tr. at 124:6-11 (Idol).
Presumably, at least some of the customers in the Tapestry and Capri data collections overlap
(although some information gathered may be complementary rather than duplicative). Even
so, the combination of Tapestry and Capri will endow the post-merger Tapestry with a strong
data-based advantage over existing and potential market participants. As Tapestry stated in a
document that it prepared in connection with a bond offering to finance the merger with
Capri: “Our greatest differentiator compared to competition is our data driven platform[.]”
PX1485 at 9; see also PX1301 at 11 (“[O]nly ~14% of organizations can make customer
There is no reason to believe that this data will remain siloed if Tapestry and Capri
combine. Although each Tapestry brand has its “own discrete database,” Tr. at 826:13-17
(Fraser), Tapestry gathers information and shares it across brands, see, e.g., Tr. at 307:4-5
(Crevoiserat: “[Tapestry’s] consumer insights can be leveraged across all of our brands in
different ways.”); PX1465 at 1 (October 2022 email from Tapestry employee to employees at
Tapestry, Coach, Kate Spade, and Stuart Weitzman attaching “Brand Tracker” slide deck
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providing in-depth overview of brand perceptions, customers’ demographic data, and other
information). Indeed, one of the main reasons that Defendants give in arguing that Tapestry
would revitalize the Michael Kors brand is that Tapestry’s “investment in brand-supporting
Michael Kors to succeed in its brand transformation.” DFOF ¶ 72. Therefore, on Defendants’
own account, Tapestry will share its entire wealth of data with Michael Kors (and,
This data is important: brands use it to make decisions about design, pricing,
marketing, and other important aspects of the business. See, e.g., PX1301 at 11 (August 2022
M&A strategy presentation to Tapestry board: “Our parenting advantages inform where we
can add value to an asset”; once such advantage is “[c]onsumer engagement & analytics,”
which gives Tapestry the “[a]bility to leverage existing customer relationships and data to
drive brand sales”); PX1465 at 5 (October 2022 slide deck: brand tracker’s “[o]bjectives”
develop actionable insights for brand strategy & functions” and “[t]rack[ing] brand
perceptions of Coach, Kate Spade vs key players in the market to monitor brand health and
identify opportunities for growth and market share gains”); Tr. at 124:12-14 (Idol: Michael
Kors’s customer data is “pretty vital to the Michael Kors business”); id. at 888:3-16 (Fraser:
Kate Spade has “a vast trove of information of styles that we’ve sold in the past” and uses this
“historical data” to make pricing decisions). There no reason to believe that data about
consumers, pricing, and other topics will shrink in importance in the years to come. On the
insights can be leveraged across all of our brands” – noted that “there’s been tremendous
innovation in the space of data and digital over the last few years alone.” Id. at 307:4-8.
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partnerships with influencers – is “the key thing in order to drive brand heat.” Tr. at 768:4-14.
to compete with (and thereby constrain) Tapestry will struggle to consistently and effectively
“drive brand heat” with marketing budgets that are orders of magnitude smaller than the post-
multimillion-dollar marketing campaign. For instance, some small brands have been fortunate
enough to have people like Madonna, Beyoncé, Taylor Swift, and Princess Catherine carry
their handbags without being paid (or at least, so it appears). DFOF ¶ 28 & n.1; cf. PFOF
¶¶ 247-250. But counting on some of the world’s biggest music stars or the Princess of Wales
to fortuitously carry one’s handbag in public for free is not a dependable growth strategy, and
it certainly is not an indication that marketing is a low barrier to entry. On the contrary, hiring
an influencer or celebrity to promote a product is not cheap, with the cost of a single
In sum, the Court finds that gulfs in access to data and marketing will present a
significant barrier to other brands seeking to compete with the post-merger Tapestry.
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private equity for financing, recently took out new debt to support its business in the United
States, and its revenues are only $ . at 11:4-20, 15:21-24, 16:15-22, 18:19-
23, 33:24-35:2 ; Smith Reply Rep. ¶ 62 tbl.1. The Court thus acknowledges that
there have been firms that have entered or expanded in the accessible-luxury-handbag market.
However, none of these firms have entered or expanded so successfully or with such
magnitude, either on their own or in the collective, for the Court to find that sufficient entry
Supporting this conclusion, the Court also recognizes that brands have been exiting
and declining in this market. Indeed, numerous brands have exited the accessible-luxury-
handbag market or remain in the market yet are not profitable. Cf. Anthem, Inc., 236 F. Supp.
3d at 222 (“To be likely, entry must be profitable, accounting for the assets, capabilities, and
capital needed and the risks involved, including the need for the entrant to incur costs that
would not be recovered if the entrant later exits.” (quotation marks omitted)). For example,
was founded in the mid-2000s but has still not been profitable. Smith Rep.
bankruptcy, citing unpaid debt to suppliers and logistical issues, Smith Rep. ¶ 281, as did
, citing sales performance and lack of sufficient foot traffic to its locations, Smith
previously attempted to launch in the United States – but its stores were not profitable and all
Defendants have not convinced the Court that significant entry or expansion is likely.
More importantly, though, even if such entry or expansion was likely, it would likely
Regardless of whether the potential market entrants are an aggregate of small companies or a
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incentive or plans to merge the brands, share pricing information between the brands, or to
otherwise limit innovation. Consistent with past practice, Tapestry plans to maintain the
brands’ separate identities and structures, ensuring they continue to compete against one
another and the hundreds of other brands in the industry.” Id.; see also DCOL ¶ 186. The
Starting with the facts, testimonial and documentary evidence show that Tapestry’s
brands are currently not as separate as Defendants suggest. To be sure, at the hearing, several
witnesses testified to areas in which Tapestry’s individual brands enjoy autonomy. For
instance, according to Crevoiserat, Coach and Kate Spade make “key strategic decisions”
without Tapestry having any “role in that process,” including on matters such as product
offerings, prices, discounts, and marketing strategies. Tr. at 304:5-17, 318:2-6; see also id. at
305:21-306:6 (Crevoiserat asserting that the same will be true at Michael Kors, Versace, and
Jimmy Choo if the merger is consummated); accord id. at 1012:19-1014:19 (Charles: “[O]ur
merchandising and design functions . . . sit very much inside each of our three brands –
Coach, Kate Spade, and St[u]art Weitzman. . . . [E]verything from a product development
point of view is customized into each of the brands.”). Similarly, Kahn testified that Coach
makes its own decisions about products, pricing, discounting, and marketing, and that
“Tapestry doesn’t play a role” in any of these decisions. Tr. at 473:4-16, 500:3-21. Kahn also
testified that Coach does not coordinate its pricing with Kate Spade and that, in fact, Kate
Spade’s pricing is “wholly irrelevant” to him and that he is “not really interested in . . . how
they go to market and what price points they set”: “we are charging our own path.” Tr. at
500:25-501:12. Levine, president of Coach North America, likewise stated that Coach and
Kate Spade do not coordinate promotions “at all,” and that the two brands “operate as separate
entities. We don’t communicate like that.” Id. at 809:15-20. On the Kate Spade side, Fraser
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testified that Kate Spade determines its own product categories, handbag designs, MSRPs,
discounts, promotions, and marketing, and that Tapestry does not “play any role at all” in any
of this. Tr. at 887:16-888:2, 896:1-897:17; see also id. at 919:10-16 (Steinmann: when
Macy’s buys bags from Coach and Kate Spade at wholesale, Macy’s negotiates with separate
teams from Coach and Kate Spade: “Tapestry does not negotiate as a whole with Macy’s”);
DX0932 at 119:20-120:16 .
Even if this testimony were unimpeachable (and, as the Court will explain, it is not),
Tapestry executives concede that some important aspects of Coach’s and Kate Spade’s
operations are centrally planned or otherwise coordinated across brands. For example, margin
targets for Tapestry’s brands are set in relation to Tapestry’s overall earnings goals. See, e.g.,
Consumer Insights Group oversees consumer research, brand-strategy planning, and long-
range planning for each of Tapestry’s brands. Id. at 359:12-24, 360:10-16 (Harris). Also,
“[m]anufacturing decisions are made at the Tapestry level rather than the brand level.” Id. at
825:20-22 (Fraser). Even the CEO of Kate Spade does “not get to make the decisions about
the factories that manufacture Kate Spade handbags.” Id. at 825:16-19 (Fraser). Likewise, it
is Tapestry, not the individual brands, that directly interfaces with third-party suppliers and
manufacturers. Coach’s and Kate Spade’s orders for materials may be “completely separate,”
but once Coach and Kate Spade submit their orders, Tapestry’s supply-chain team “place[s]
the physical purchase orders with the service providers or factories and raw material
Kate Spade, that picks up the products from factories in Southeast Asia and transports them to
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Moreover, although some witnesses claimed that Coach and Kate Spade view each
other’s pricing as “wholly irrelevant,” Tr. at 500:25-501:06 (Kahn); see also id. at 809:8-14
(Levine), and that they “don’t communicate” about such matters, id. at 809:15-20 (Levine),
ordinary-course documents tell a different story. Consider, for instance, an August 2021
email that Michele Parsons – then serving as Kate Spade’s chief merchandiser and in charge
of setting MSRPs for Kate Spade – sent to a dozen people, including not only Liz Fraser but
also two people whose email address domain names indicate that they were not Kate Spade
employees: Campbell O’Shea (Coach) and Jennifer Wang (Stuart Weitzman). PX1495 at 1;
Tr. at 856:6-857:11 (Fraser). Parsons explained that she was “[s]haring this recap . . . of the
recent price increases that Michael Kors has taken on current prices in the US in Mainline,”
which Parsons described as “fairly significant.” PX1495 at 1 (“I’m very surprised to see
the[ $]298 price point in totes go to $358.”). Parsons stated that “[w]e will consider what this
means for us as we focus on elevating and MSRP’s.” Id. She added that she had included
“Campbell and Jennifer for visibility” and because she “wonder[ed] if this has happened
globally.” Id. In other words, Kate Spade shared information about Michael Kors pricing
trends with counterparts at Coach and Stuart Weitzman, indicated how Kate Spade would
The record discloses other examples of Coach and Kate Spade sharing pricing
information. In February 2022, Levine sent an email to several Coach store regional directors
with the subject line: “Outlet Price Tracking Proposal.” PX1547 at 2; Tr. at 787:14-20, 811:7-
9 (Levine). Levine wrote: “As we used to do a while back there is interest in tracking against
pricing for certain styles (namely MK and TB). Kate Spade has been doing this already and
they will share the responsibly [sic] with us – and we don’t need to track the KS pricing
anymore because we can get it directly from them!” PX1547 at 2. Levine included a link to
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“the format they are asking us to complete” and stated that Coach was responsible for tracking
prices in New York, Florida, and Chicago on a monthly basis (starting on February 18, 2022),
while Kate Spade would handle Delaware, California, and Canada. PX1547 at 2. This
tracking continued through at least the end of December 2022. See Tr. at 789:1-8 (Levine);
PX8028 at 1-2 (December 2022 email sent by Coach’s senior manager for global price
positioning to Levine and several others, including someone with a Tapestry email address;
information compiled by “COH and KS store associates”). Thus, for at least 11 months,
Coach and Kate Spade not only shared their own commercially sensitive pricing information
directly with one another, but also collaborated in gathering such information about Michael
In addition to the foregoing concrete examples, the Court observes that the notion that
Kate Spade’s pricing is “wholly irrelevant” to Coach CEO Kahn is difficult to square with,
among other things, the materials in the record prepared by and/or for him that compare
Coach and Kate Spade prices. See, e.g., PX1783 at 51 (January 2023 email to Kahn and
others attaching slides with pricing update on Coach vis-à-vis brands including Kate Spade).
The same goes for Kahn’s dubious assertion that Michael Kors “has no pricing constraint on
[Coach’s] activities” in the market for handbags, and that Coach does not “base [its] pricing
on what Michael Kors charges.” Tr. at 491:16-492:2. For similar reasons, the Court gives no
credence to then-Kate Spade CEO Fraser’s suggestion that Kate Spade “consider[s] the prices
of other brands’ handbags when setting its prices” rarely and only on an ad hoc basis, Tr. at
888:17-25 (Fraser), a suggestion which also is contradicted by record evidence, see, e.g.,
PX1067 at 1 (Kahn to Fraser: “Gucci bags at $2000 is just not our customer in NA.”);
PX1547 at 2 (Coach and Kate Spade tracking Michael Kors and Tory Burch pricing). Indeed,
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taken seriously, this portion of Fraser’s testimony implies that Kate Spade is largely
disinterested in competing with anyone on price – something that should be true only of a
Not all communication between Coach and Kate Spade is about price. For instance, in
January 2022, Fraser texted Kahn to complain about the similarities between the Coach heart
handbag and the Kate Spade heart handbag, which were “extremely close” to one another. Tr.
at 839:22-840:24 (Fraser discussing PX1271). Fraser wrote that “there are 100’s of TikTok
videos comparing the Coach heart vs the Kate one. We have a investment in the bag so
it’s not a great situation for us,” especially since “[t]he Coach investment was much lower.”
PX1271 at 1; see Tr. at 842:9-10 (Fraser: “[T]he heart bag was important to Kate Spade.”).
Fraser added: “I guess my question is whether Coach would recut the bag. It’s not ideal for
us.” PX1271 at 1; Tr. at 841:18-842:3, 842:11-18, 902:22-25 (Fraser: confirming that she
“didn’t want [the Coach heart bag] to be so similar” to the Kate Spade heart bag and “was
trying to politely ask him” to “not reproduce [Coach’s] heart bag”). Even though Coach did
not ultimately acquiesce to the request, the exchange illustrates efforts to coordinate at the
highest level.
The record discloses other examples of Coach and Kate Spade sharing pricing and
product information with one another. See, e.g., Tr. at 842:20-848:1 (Fraser discussing
PX8124, a slide deck about Coach’s outlet pricing and strategy sent to Kate Spade executives
in May 2021); id. at 848:20-849:20 (Fraser discussing PX8123, an email chain containing
Coach’s outlet-pricing data sent by the Global Strategy and Consumer Insights team in
October 2022); PX1338 at 1, 10, 16, 20, 35, 78-80, 89-90 (February 2023 emails between
executives at Tapestry, Coach, and Kate Spade regarding an “analysis [that] was done about a
year ago for both Coach and kate spade”; attaching March 2022 “Product Comparison” slide
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deck with multiple slides containing information about sourcing, costing, pricing, and
consumer perceptions). Each brand’s CEO attends all Tapestry board meetings, where
participants routinely discuss commercially sensitive information. See, e.g., Tr. at 849:22-
853:19 (Fraser discussing PX1497, a March 2022 slide deck about Coach’s long-range plan;
according to Fraser, she “would have seen this [information] in a board meeting”); PX1387 at
17, 22-28, 34-35, 38, 41-49 (August 2023 presentation to Tapestry board including brand-
specific information about strategy, revenue, profit margins, marketing, and other issues).
Thus, other evidence in the record belies the testimony by Defendants’ executives that
Tapestry and its brands are fully siloed at present. And there is also no reason to predict that
Michael Kors will be more isolated from Tapestry, Coach, and Kate Spade than the latter
three currently are from each other. If anything, the Court expects that Michael Kors would
coordinate more with its parent company and sibling brands, given that Defendants’ stated
rationale for the merger is that Tapestry can “leverage” its “capabilities” to “revitalize[e]”
Turning to the law, Defendants’ brand-autonomy argument runs headfirst into “the
legal principle of corporate-wide profit maximization,” AT&T, 916 F.3d at 1044, which posits
that a “division within a corporate structure pursues the common interests of the whole rather
than interests separate from those of the corporation itself,” and that “the operations of a
corporate enterprise organized into divisions must be judged as the conduct of a single actor,”
Copperweld Corp. v. Indep. Tube Corp., 467 U.S. 752, 770 (1984). Based on the strong
economic incentives for corporate divisions to cooperate to maximize overall profit, antitrust
courts are reluctant to treat these internal divisions as meaningful competitive restraints on
one another.
132
Bertelsmann is instructive. There, the plaintiff successfully argued that the merger
between two large publishers likely would substantially lessen competition in the market for
acquiring anticipated top-selling books. See 646 F. Supp. 3d at 10-12. As relevant here, the
court rejected the defendants’ argument that existing internal competition between their
imprints “increase[d] competition in the market beyond that represented in market shares,”
noting that this competition was “far from unrestrained.” Id. at 49-50. The court also gave
little credence to a proposed post-merger policy that, according to the defendants, “would go
even farther in permitting internal competition than current policies allow[ed].” Id. at 50. As
the court explained, “the proposed policy would not be profit-maximizing and [wa]s thus
unreliable evidence of future conduct”; the promise to adhere to this policy could “be broken
at will . . . at any time”; and the proposed policy still “would not prevent the merged entity
The Court reaches a similar conclusion here. Defendants’ assurance that “Tapestry
plans to maintain the brands’ separate identities and structures, ensuring they continue to
compete against one another” is unenforceable, and it elides the ways in which co-owned
brands with “separate identities and structures” (such as Coach and Kate Spade at present)
may nonetheless compete less with one another than they would under separate ownership.
Opp. at 36. For example, it is presently true that separate brand teams negotiate Coach and
Kate Spade handbag prices with Macy’s, and that “Tapestry does not negotiate as a whole
post-merger. Indeed, it would be economically irrational for the owner of the largest handbag
brand at Macy’s by sales revenue (Michael Kors) and second-largest handbag brand at Macy’s
133
Also, Defendants’ claim that “Tapestry intends to permit Michael Kors to operate
autonomously, with only specific corporate-level support from Tapestry in certain areas,”
DFOF ¶ 186, is unlikely due to contrary economic incentives. Dr. Smith persuasively
explained that “as long as the brands are operating in the interest of the parent, they would
have the incentive to increase price, [and] whether they’re getting in a room and doing it or
whether they’re independently operating, they would consider each other’s profits when they
made the decision to set their own prices.” Tr. at 573:25-574:5. Thus, the “assum[ption] that
the merging parties, after they merge, would continue to compete as they do today . . . just
contradicts fundamental economics. [T]he key question is: Are [the merging parties]
significant substitutes for one another? If they are, they have a very significant incentive to
increase price.” Id. at 573:7-17 (Smith). Dr. Smith opined – and the Court agrees – that
Tapestry is “a sophisticated firm, [and] they’re not going to leave money on the table. By
continuing to compete as they do today, they’d be leaving significant money on the table.” Id.
134
PX7414 at 29. 41
It may be true, as Kahn testified, that Coach and Kate Spade are “siblings” and, as
siblings often do, “tend to compete” with one another. Tr. at 501:21-502:7 (Kahn). But it is
also true that parents have the final say, just as Tapestry would here. Accordingly, the Court
rejects Defendants’ argument that competition between its brands will materially ameliorate
C. Revitalization
Tapestry intends to improve demand for Michael Kors handbags and drive increased sales.”
Opp. at 37 (emphasis and further capitalization omitted). The Court rejects this argument.
Michael Kors has experienced something of a decline over the better part of the past
decade. See, e.g., Tr. at 160:4-16 (Idol); id. at 751:14-19 (Wilmotte); id. at 1100:7-13 (Mr.
Kors). Its total revenue for the most recent fiscal year was around $3.5 billion, down from a
2016 peak of $4.7 billion. Id. at 131:11-14, 132:18-21 (Idol). Similarly, its U.S. handbag
revenues declined from about $1.65 billion in 2018 to about $1.2 billion in 2023. Id. at
41
Professor Scott Morton agreed at the hearing that “the fundamental economics is that the
conglomerate[ is] trying to maximize profit.” Tr. at 1232:3-8. However, she also testified
that Tapestry would not “get too involved in trying to coordinate” its brands, because “they’re
better off having differentiated brands that do a good job at differentiating [themselves rather]
than trying to make some more homogeneous uniform plan.” Tr. at 1232:7-1233:5. When the
Court asked Professor Scott Morton how Tapestry would add value to Michael Kors without
coordination between the brands, Professor Scott Morton testified that it was “hard to explain
from the outside, but a corporation has capabilities and ways of doing things that are just the
way they’ve always done it” and that “Tapestry’s got some ways of operating and they say,
okay, here’s how we – here’s the way we think about prices, here’s the way we think about
people, here’s the way we think about consumer insights, go off and do that for Kors brand,
we’re not going to tell you how to run the Kors brand, but we want you to do it our way – that
can be a source of – like a way to change course that might be more functional.” Tr. 1279:25-
1281:3. This testimony supports the Court’s conclusion that Tapestry would not simply
permit Michael Kors to continue operating completely independently of Coach and Kate
Spade.
135
1110:3-11 (Edwards). Executives identified various potential explanations for Michael Kors’s
malaise including high levels of competition in the industry, “brand fatigue” caused by the
a general loss of “brand heat” and “brand relevance.” See, e.g., id. at 134:3-135:1 (Idol); id. at
Kors); see also PX2321 at 2 (Mr. Kors text to Wilmotte in April 2023: “in general [I t]hink we
spend too much $ consistently chasing a sale/ outlet/ cut up kind of customer”).
Michael Kors has tried to change direction – to “try to get that brand heat back” –
without much success. Tr. at 133:4-134:2, 152:3-9 (Idol); see also, e.g., id. at 228:22-229:14
(Newman). For example, “Michael Kors designed the Parker bag as part of a recent
accessories and footwear at Michael Kors, the Parker was the Rolls Royce of handbags. Tr. at
222:23-25. Consumers took a different view. See id. (Newman: “It was my belief that the
product we were offering, qualitatively it was the equivalent to a Rolls Royce, but she was
only willing to pay for a Fiat.”). Another recently launched bag, the Lulu, also failed to win
Defendants believe that Tapestry will “revitalize” Michael Kors. Opp. at 11 (initial
42
Defendants claim that “Tapestry intends to unlock unrealized value in all three Capri
brands,” including Jimmy Choo and Versace. DFOF ¶ 74; see also, e.g., id. ¶ 76. Defendants
provide no evidence that Jimmy Choo and Versace need revitalization or that, if they do,
Tapestry can help them do so. Even if Tapestry could “revitalize” Jimmy Choo and Versace,
it would mean only that those brands were stronger in markets other than the market for
accessible-luxury handbags. Yet the Supreme Court has rejected the notion that, under
Section 7, “anticompetitive effects in one market could be justified by procompetitive
consequences in another.” Phila. Nat’l Bank, 374 U.S. at 370; accord Aetna, 240 F. Supp. 3d
at 94. So too here.
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Michael Kors “grow sales across the world.” DFOF ¶ 75. To do so, Tapestry intends to
“leverage” its “rich consumer insight work,” “technology backbone and digital architecture,”
“supply chain,” “talent,” and “culture.” Tr. at 306:07-308:11 (Crevoiserat); see id. at 308:22-
309:2 (Crevoiserat: “I believe that we can inject more relevancy, more vibrancy into the Capri
brands, improve execution, leverage our capabilities and really take what would then be a
portfolio of six iconic brands and bring them to more customers, put more product in the
hands of more customers globally.”). Defendants also assert that the merger “will realize
significant cost synergies. Tapestry projects more than $200 million in operational cost
savings and supply chain efficiencies within three fiscal years.” DFOF ¶ 79.
To address this argument, it helps to clarify what Defendants are not arguing.
Notably, Defendants are not asserting a failing-company defense, nor could they credibly do
so. The failing-company defense “is, in a sense, a ‘lesser of two evils’ approach, in which the
adverse impact on competition and other losses if the company goes out of business.” United
States v. Gen. Dynamics Corp., 415 U.S. 486, 507 (1974). It is available “only if two
requirements are satisfied: (1) that the resources of [the acquired company] were so depleted
and the prospect of rehabilitation so remote that it faced the grave probability of a business
failure[,] and (2) that there was no other prospective purchaser for it.” United States v.
Greater Buffalo Press, Inc., 402 U.S. 549, 555 (1971) (quotation marks and citation omitted).
“Because the doctrine is narrow in scope, it rarely succeeds.” Energy Sols., 265 F. Supp. 3d at
444 (quotation marks and citations omitted). Simply put, Michael Kors faces no imminent
risk of business failure. See, e.g., Tr. at 124:18-21 (Idol: “[T]he Michael Kors brand will
20 (Mr. Kors: “Michael Kors is successful to this day[.]”); id. at 1316:2-6 (Scott Morton:
137
“Michael Kors is not a failing firm” and, in fact, is “currently profitable”). Defendants have
also adduced no evidence regarding other prospective purchasers. Thus, even if Defendants
had asserted the failing-company defense, they would not qualify for it. See, e.g., F. & M.
Schaefer, 597 F.2d at 817-18 (rejecting failing-company defense even though acquired
company “ha[d] suffered declining sales and large losses in recent years” and its ability to
Defendants also deny that they are making “an efficiencies defense,” Opp. at 37 – that
is, a defense premised on the argument that the merger will “generate significant efficiencies
and thus enhance the merged firm’s ability and incentive to compete, which may result in
lower prices, improved quality, enhanced service, or new products,” ProMedica, 749 F.3d at
571 (citation omitted). Although the Supreme Court has never expressly endorsed using an
efficiencies defense to a Section 7 claim, see Penn State, 838 F.3d at 347, “[t]he trend among
lower courts [is] to recognize or at least assume that evidence of efficiencies may rebut the
presumption that a merger’s effects will be anticompetitive,” Deutsche Telekom, 439 F. Supp.
3d at 207 (collecting cases); see also 2023 Merger Guidelines § 3.3. “For the efficiencies
defense to be cognizable, the efficiencies must (1) offset the anticompetitive concerns in
highly concentrated markets; (2) be merger-specific (i.e., the efficiencies cannot be achieved
by either party alone); (3) be verifiable, not speculative; and (4) not arise from anticompetitive
Defendants state that “the evidence on the deal rationale,” when “combined with the
other evidence” in the record, “suggests” that the FTC’s prima facie case “overstat[es] the
transaction’s likely anticompetitive effects.” Opp. at 37-38. Defendants thus dispute that
“this evidence must meet the formal elements of an efficiencies defense to be considered by
138
The Court disagrees. As the Third Circuit explained in rejecting a similar framing, the
argument “that procompetitive effects must simply be weighed in the balance together with
anticompetitive effects when considering whether [the defendants] have rebutted the
(emphasis added). It is difficult to conceive of Crevoiserat’s testimony that Michael Kors will
benefit from Tapestry’s “rich consumer insight work,” “technology backbone and digital
architecture,” “supply chain,” “talent,” and “culture” as anything other than a claim that
Michael Kors will be more effective at selling handbags than it was before the merger. Tr. at
306:07-308:11. Matters are even clearer in considering Defendants’ argument that the merger
“will realize significant cost synergies,” including “operational cost savings and supply chain
efficiencies.” DFOF ¶ 79. Try as they might, Defendants cannot reap the benefits of an
efficiencies defense while evading its requirements. The Court thus proceeds to analyze this
rebuttal argument in the framework of an efficiencies defense and finds that Defendants fail to
As a threshold matter, the asserted efficiencies certainly do not offset the competitive
concerns here. Defendants assert that the merger “will realize significant cost synergies” and
that “Tapestry projects more than $200 million in operational cost savings and supply chain
efficiencies within three fiscal years.” DFOF ¶ 79. Even assuming that Tapestry’s projection
is entirely accurate, $200 million of savings within three fiscal years – that is, approximately
$66.7 million annually – does not come close to outweighing the $365 million annually in
consumer harm projected by Dr. Smith as part of his merger simulation, see infra at pp. 161-
Significantly, Defendants also do not persuade the Court that the claimed efficiencies
139
consequence of the merger[.]” Areeda & Hovenkamp ¶ 973a. In other words, Defendants
“must show that their efficiencies[] cannot be achieved by either company alone because, if
they can, the merger’s asserted benefits can be achieved without the concomitant loss of a
cannot do so.
The claimed revitalization of Michael Kors is not merger specific because Defendants
have not shown that it “cannot be achieved by either company alone.” Id. at 90 (citation
omitted); see, e.g., id. (rejecting efficiencies defense where acquired company could have
achieved lower costs on its own by relocating certain laborers to lower-cost areas and by
“taking a more cost conscious attitude”); Evanston Nw. Healthcare Corp., No. 9315, 2007
WL 2286195, at *39 (F.T.C. Aug. 6, 2007) (rejecting efficiencies defense where acquired
hospital “could have made the large majority of the quality improvements asserted by
[acquiring hospital] without the merger,” and where the acquired hospital “had plans in place
to improve its quality and expand services further without a merger, including many of the
same improvements that [the acquiring hospital] credits to the merger”). Defendants assert
that Tapestry can revitalize Michael Kors through its consumer insight work, supply chain
innovation, and talent base. DFOF ¶ 75. But the Court sees no reason, based on the evidence
presented, that Capri cannot realize the vast majority of those improvements alone, by, for
example, improving its own consumer insights work, supply chain, and talent base.
Part of the reason that the Court doubts that the claimed efficiencies are merger-
specific is that Michael Kors already is undergoing a brand transformation unrelated to the
potential merger between Tapestry and Capri. Tr. at 242:10-16 (Newman). The latest attempt
at brand transformation began in April 2023 when Wilmotte assumed the helm as CEO of
Michael Kors. Id. at 732:22-733:11 (Wilmotte). Over 100 people at Michael Kors are
140
working on the project. Id. at 738:2-4 (Wilmotte). Wilmotte has established a “mini office”
to implement the transformation, created a committee that meets monthly to review the
progress of the transformation, and hired an outside consultant (Landor & Fitch) to host
workshops with the transformation team, including Wilmotte and members of his executive
Kors’[s] product design,” including through new handbag designs that only recently hit the
market. Tr. at 739:11-23 (Wilmotte); see id. at 739:24-740:4 (Wilmotte: the design of the
new handbags started in April 2023, so “[t]hey took over a year to go from that design to
redesigning Michael Kors stores. Id.at 741:18-20 (Wilmotte). That redesign process has
already begun, with new store concepts to roll out between March and June 2025. Id. at
741:24-742:1 (Wilmotte). Michael Kors has also started to “right size its distribution,” which
“is meant to address Michael Kors’[s] ubiquity problems.” Id. at 742:18-743:1 (Wilmotte).
This process of “right sizing” entails closing some Michael Kors stores, exiting some Macy’s
department stores, and selling in new department-store locations such as Nordstrom’s. Id. at
743:2-12 (Wilmotte). Additional aspects include rebranding MMK by fall 2025, which
“involves moving away from the name Michael Michael Kors,” and expanding clienteling,
which “involves building relationships with customers to better understand their shopping
preferences and habits.” Id. at 740:5-11, 742:2-8 (Wilmotte). Altogether, Wilmotte admitted
that “Michael Kors’[s] brand transformation is moving in the right direction.” Id. at 743:13-
17 (Wilmotte).
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Wilmotte testified that the Michael Kors brand transformation was “not on track anymore.”
Tr. at 770:3-5 (Wilmotte); see id. at 767:3-7 (Wilmotte: “We’re actually stalling in many of
the initiatives that we wanted to push forward. And . . . it’s not going where it should be
going at this stage.”). The Court finds this self-interested testimony less credible than
Wilmotte’s contrary testimony that the brand transformation was moving “in the right
direction.” Tr. at 743:13-17. Similarly, Mr. Kors testified that the plan to reenergize the
Michael Kors brand is “unfortunately in a point of statis at this point,” Tr. at 1081:22-24, but
he also admitted that Michael Kors has “a plan independent of the transaction with Tapestry to
reenergize Michael Kors,” id. at 1083:12-14. The Court finds the latter testimony more
credible.
For these reasons, Defendants fail to make out an efficiencies defense. But even if the
Court agreed with Defendants that their revitalization argument does not require applying “the
established antitrust principles. Opp. at 37. “It is axiomatic that the antitrust laws were
passed for ‘the protection of competition, not competitors.’” Brooke Grp. Ltd. v. Brown &
Williamson Tobacco Corp., 509 U.S. 209, 224 (1993) (quoting Brown Shoe, 370 U.S. at 320).
That the merger may help Michael Kors sell more handbags does not automatically render the
on discounting,” and “even as Michael Kors has attempted to increase handbag prices,” it has
“ha[d] to raise discounts even more to sell its product.” Opp. at 11-12; see, e.g., Tr. at 161:1-3
(Idol: “[U]nfortunately as the brand heat was declining or is declining, we have had to lower
prices and also have more discounts.”). Defendants contend that, following the merger, “the
142
end result for consumers will be more relevant Michael Kors products for more consumers
globally at desirable prices.” DFOF ¶ 80. By “desirable” prices, Defendants do not mean
lower prices. They mean higher prices. See, e.g., Tr. at 78:10-15 (Tapestry Opening: “While
the spiral of deepening discounts may sound like a good thing for the consumer, it’s not. The
consumers’ unwillingness to buy Michael Kors handbags without bigger and bigger discounts
reflects that Michael Kors handbags are providing diminishing value. The consumer is not
getting more for less. She’s getting less for less.”); id. at 162:11-17 (Idol: “[Discounting]
means [consumers] don’t value your brand. Therefore, in their minds they’re going to get
something that’s less, but the value of the brand is less at the same time.”).
On this point, Tapestry’s internal documents are telling. Notably, in August 2022,
Harris and her team prepared and presented a slide deck to Crevoiserat “[i]n connection with
our M&A ambition[s].” PX1216 at 4; see Tr. at 286:24-288:9 (Crevoiserat: PX1216 “was
meant to convey a process or approach that we may take when we got further into our M & A
process”). One slide in a section called “Pricing Insights” featured a chart comparing AURs
for Coach, Kate Spade, and Michael Kors. PX1216 at 16-17. The slide stated: “Coach has
been priced an average $147 above MK for the last 2 years; suggesting room to increase MK
AUR.” Id. The next slide compared average discount rates for the same three brands. Id. at
18. This slide stated: “Over the last 2 years, MK has had an average discount rate of 45% vs.
37% for Coach and 28% for Kate Spade suggesting opportunity to reduce MK discounting.”
Id. at 18. Harris claimed that “[i]n the context of this slide,” the reference to “opportunity”
was “just another way to remark on the delta that we see” and “not at all a suggestion that you
could actually do that.” Tr. at 423:16-20. The Court finds this explanation implausible given
that “the context of this slide” was a presentation to the CEO of Tapestry about the strategic
benefits of acquiring Michael Kors. See generally PX1216. Harris’s explanation also defies
143
the ordinary meaning of the word “opportunity.” See, e.g., Opportunity, Merriam-Webster,
(“a combination of circumstances, time, and place suitable or favorable for a particular
activity or action”).
The evidence reflects that Tapestry perceived the acquisition of Michael Kors to be an
opportunity to decrease Michael Kors’s discounting and increase Michael Kors’s prices – a
recognized form of anticompetitive effects. See AmEx II, 585 U.S. at 542. Moreover, given
the substantial market power that it will possess after the merger, Tapestry may also further
reduce discounting by Coach and Kate Spade, as has been Tapestry’s goal in recent years.
See, e.g., Tr. at 779:24-780:12, 796:3-5, 808:16-809:7 (Levine); Tr. at 890:24-891:9 (Fraser).
For these reasons, the Court rejects Defendants’ rebuttal argument that the transaction
is procompetitive because Tapestry intends to improve demand for Michael Kors handbags
Defendants argue that after the merger is consummated, they could not raise prices of
handbags without increasing value because consumers control the prices that they will pay
and consumers could simply choose not to buy a handbag. See DFOF ¶ 56 (“because
handbags are a discretionary purchase, consumers can . . . respond to undesired price increases
by electing not to purchase or delay a purchase until prices are reduced or discounted.”);
DFOF ¶¶ 166-171 (asserting that there is no evidence that Tapestry could increase price or
reduce value post-merger). Although Defendants’ papers present this argument only vaguely,
the Court views it as an additional rebuttal argument and therefore analyzes it here.
Several representatives from the merging parties testified that Tapestry would be
unable to increase prices after the merger because consumers control pricing. See, e.g., Tr. at
144
347:22-348:4 (Crevoiserat: Tapestry would have “no ability” to raise the price of Michael
Kors handbags if it acquired Capri); Tr. at 491:16-23 (Kahn: Michael Kors dos not “act[] as a
pricing constraint on Coach” because “the consumer decides” pricing); Tr. at 800:15-25
(Levine: “the customer will decide what they want to pay” and “sets the price”); Tr. at 890:21-
23 (Fraser: Kate Spade cannot “raise prices without elevating the product and brand heat.”);
Tr. at 424:20-23 (Harris: it is “[n]ot at all” possible that “Tapestry could successfully raise the
price of Michael Kors handbags merely by acquiring Capri”); Tr. at 420:12-16 (Harris:
similar).
The Court does not credit these self-interested statements. See, e.g., Bertelsmann, 646
F. Supp. 3d at 40 n.27 (finding “incredible” “testimony [from defendants’ witnesses] that the
merger will have either no effect or positive effects on advances” and instead “credit[ing] the
much stronger evidence that advances will decrease after the merger, based on the market-
share data, economic analyses, and the more credible testimony regarding market dynamics”).
Indeed, even Professor Scott Morton believes that “unsupported claims from individuals who
are employed by the merging parties that they will not raise prices . . . should be viewed very
skeptically” and that courts should instead “focus on the evidence that shows the incentives of
the firm and testimony about those incentives – and not on contrary self-serving statements.”
Even if the present competitive landscape would not permit price increases, the
proposed merger would change the calculus based on the economic analyses presented here.
As Dr. Smith observed, “[w]hat changes . . . is that after the merger, . . . Tapestry would take
into account that if it raises prices on Michael Kors, a significant amount of those sales would
be diverted to Coach and Kate Spade, and they would recapture significant profit on those
145
sales when they’re diverted.” Tr. at 569:10-570:2. The merger would thus would “give[]
The potential decrease in pricing constraints and how diverted sales are recaptured in
the theoretical post-merger world are subjects for complex economic analysis – not fortune-
telling and hollow promises from company executives. Indeed, the Supreme Court explained
that a district court’s “reliance” on “testimony by [officers of the merging firms] to the effect
that competition among [the firms] was vigorous and would continue to be vigorous after the
merger” was “misplaced.” Phila. Nat’l Bank, 374 U.S. at 366-67. Such “lay evidence on so
complex an economic-legal problem as the substantiality of the effect of this merger upon
As such, the Court does not afford any weight to the opinions of Defendants’ industry
experts, Gennette and Giberson, that Tapestry will not be able to raise prices on handbags
without adding value to those handbags post-merger. See, e.g., Tr. at 1159:17-24 (Gennette: it
is not “a realistic proposition in the real world” that “Tapestry will be able to raise prices
significantly on Michael Kors handbags without adding value to those handbags”); Giberson
Rep. ¶ 76 (Dr. Smith’s “conclusion just does not make sense based on what I know about the
handbag industry and how consumers buy handbags”). Neither Gennette nor Giberson are
economists and their conclusions regarding the economic effect of a merger on pricing
Defendants’ argument that prices will not be impacted because consumers could just
choose not to buy a handbag is also unavailing. Cf. Tr. at 320:18-24 (Crevoiserat: Handbags
are “a discretionary category . . . if a customer doesn’t like what we’re providing, they could
go anywhere. They could buy a pair of yoga pants or go out to dinner.”); Tr. at 481:7-10
(Kahn: a consumer could choose to “buy a handbag” or to “go out to dinner”). Not only are
146
handbags important to women in many aspects of their lives, as discussed in more detail infra
at p. 165, Dr. Smith accounted for the possibility that certain consumer’s next-best option in
the event of a price increase was not a handbag in the sensitivity case for his aggregate-
diversion analysis. Even in that sensitivity case, his candidate market passed the HMT by a
Instead of giving weight to the self-serving statements of the merging parties, the
Court credits the strong evidence that the merger will lead to anticompetitive harm based on
III. Step 3
The FTC has already carried its burden of persuasion because it has established its
prima facie case and Defendants have failed to rebut that case. See Hackensack, 30 F.4th at
179 (if a Section 7 plaintiff establishes a prima facie case that the defendant fail to rebut, “no
additional evidence is necessary for the [plaintiff] to carry its ultimate burden of persuasion);
cf. Deutsche Telekom, 439 F. Supp. 3d at 233 (“Defendants’ rebuttal of [the plaintiff’s] prima
facie case . . . leaves [the plaintiff] with the ultimate burden of proof.”). Nevertheless, even if
Defendants had rebutted the FTC’s prima facie case by showing that it “inaccurately predicts
the relevant transaction’s probable effect on future competition,” thus shifting the burden of
production back to the FTC, AT&T, 916 F.3d at 1032 (citation omitted), the FTC would still
43
The FTC contends that “independent of any market-concentration analysis,” it can meet its
prima facie burden by demonstrating that the merger will eliminate head-to-head competition
between close competitors. PCOL ¶ 17; see also Br. at 9; Reply at 3-4. This argument relies,
in part, on language in Section 2.2 of the 2023 Merger Guidelines. See 2023 Merger
Guidelines § 2.2 (“Although a change in market structure can also indicate risk of competitive
harm . . . , an analysis of the existing competition between the merging firms can demonstrate
that a merger threatens competitive harm independent from an analysis of market shares.”). In
response, Defendants argue that the FTC’s position on this point is “radical[]” and that
147
Courts examine two types of additional evidence of anticompetitive harm: coordinated
effects and unilateral effects. See, e.g., Bertelsmann, 646 F. Supp. 3d at 38, 44; Anthem, 236
F. Supp. 3d at 215; H & R Block, 833 F. Supp. 2d at 76-77. Coordinated effects occur when
understanding in order to restrict output and achieve profits above the competitive levels,”
749 F.3d at 568); accord H & R Block, 833 F. Supp. 2d at 77. In contrast, unilateral effects
“are those that result directly from the elimination of competition between the merging
parties,” Bertelsmann, 646 F. Supp. 3d at 39, which “[c]ourts have recognized . . . can result
in a substantial lessening of competition,” Sysco, 113 F. Supp. 3d at 61. The FTC does not
argue that the merger will result in coordinated anticompetitive conduct, and the Court
therefore does not analyze any potential coordinated effects. Rather, the FTC argues the
merger will result in unilateral anticompetitive effects, which the Court proceeds to analyze.
between close competitors can result in a substantial lessening of competition.” Id. (collecting
cases). This is because when close competitors merge, they may no longer need to compete
with one another as intensely to retain market power. See Gregory J. Werden, Unilateral
Section 2.2 is a “recent aspirational policy announcement of the current administration.” Opp.
at 32-33. Because the Court finds that the FTC has sufficiently established that the merger
will significantly increase concentration in a relevant market and thus proven its prima facie
case, the Court need not decide whether the FTC could alternatively prove its prima facie case
by demonstrating that the merger “will eliminate head-to-head competition between close
competitors” without analyzing market concentration. PCOL ¶ 71. The Court instead
considers the loss of head-to-head competition as additional evidence of the merger’s
anticompetitive effects in Step 3 of the burden-shifting framework, noting that other Courts
have chosen to consider such evidence at Step 1. See, e.g., IQVIA, 710 F. Supp. 3d at 382-86;
Sysco, 113 F. Supp. 3d at 61-72.
148
Competition L. & Pol’y 1319, 1319 (2008) (“Horizontal mergers give rise to unilateral
anticompetitive effects if they cause the merged firm to act less intensely competitive than the
merging firms[.]”). Courts therefore often find unilateral anticompetitive effects when a
merger would eliminate competition between close competitors. See, e.g., Sysco, 113 F.
Supp. 3d at 61-66; H & R Block, 833 F. Supp. 2d at 81-82, 88; Staples I, 970 F. Supp. at 1083.
merger will eliminate head-to-head competition, see, e.g., Sysco, 113 F. Supp. 3d at 61-62, 64
IQVIA, 710 F. Supp. 3d at 383 (“the documents . . . reveal evidence of fierce competition
between” the defendants), or through quantitative models showing harm to consumers, see,
e.g., id.at 386 (examining quantitative evidence of unilateral effects); H & R Block, 833 F.
Supp. 2d at 86 (same). The FTC presents both qualitative and quantitative evidence of
A. Qualitative Evidence
The FTC presented numerous ordinary-course documents that indicate that Michael
Kors is a particularly close competitor to Coach and/or Kate Spade. The Court found
particularly compelling the evidence that the merging parties repeatedly identify each other as
significant competitors and that the merging parties respond to each other’s pricing and
marketing strategies.
Tapestry and Capri executives explicitly recognize Coach, Michael Kors, and Kate
Spade as close competitors. On the Capri side, for example, in a March 2021 email to a third-
party, Capri CEO Idol highlighted the approach Michael Kors had taken with respect to a
particular issue, and compared Michael Kors’s approach to the approach taken by their “key
149
competitor Coach.” PX2425 at 1-2. 44 In a June 2021 email, Michael Kors executive Newman
discussed a logistical issue facing Michael Kors and compared Michael Kors’s issue with “our
competitor” in PX2728 meant Tapestry); see also PX2043 at 2 (email chain continued from
PX2728).
Capri’s investors also view Coach as the “primary” or “closest” competitor of Michael
Kors. For example, a 2022 investor study conducted by Capri’s board of directors stated that
“Tapestry/Coach [is] viewed as the primary competitor” of the Michael Kors brand. PX2423
at 6; Tr. at 84:25-85:4 (Idol providing context regarding PX2423); see also PX2020 at 6
(investor letter presented during an April 2023 Capri board meeting comparing Michael Kors
to “the closest competitor, Coach”); Tr. at 100:20-23 (Idol providing context regarding
PX2020).
Indeed, Tapestry executives expressed concern leading up to the merger that Michael
Kors competes too closely with Tapestry’s brands. In August 2022, when Tapestry was in the
beginning stages of developing its strategy to acquire Michael Kors, Tr. at 285:5-12
44
Given the contrary ordinary-course documents, the Court does not credit the self-interested
testimony of Idol at the preliminary injunction hearing that Michael Kors does not have close
competitors and instead has “many, many competitors.” Tr. at 164:6-11 (Idol).
45
During the hearing, Newman tried to cabin and neutralize this document by stating that it
simply referred to “the container issues and supply chain issues we were facing at the time”
instead of supporting the notion that Coach or Kate Spade were Michael Kors’s closest
competitors “for the sale of handbags with consumers.” Tr. at 207:11-18 (Newman). The
Court does not find that testimony to be credible in light of the plain language of PX2728,
which refers to Tapestry being Capri’s “biggest competitor” and supports the recognition that
the companies were close competitors for the sale of goods to consumers, as opposed to
simply for supply chain resources.
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(Crevoiserat), a Tapestry presentation entitled “MK Preliminary Consumer Pulse + M&A
Survey Approach Details” stated that Michael Kors and Coach “are each other’s top
competition when consumers are considering other brands for purchase,” PX1216 at 4; 46 Tr.
between Coach, Kate Spade, and Michael Kors following the merger, due to “[h]igh cross-
purchase overlap” between the brands. See, e.g., PX1715 at 10 (“High cross-purchase overlap
with Coach and Kate Spade consumers would present cannibalization risks, though reinforces
the ‘affordable luxury’ nature of the portfolio and leadership within luxury leather goods.”).
Tapestry’s CEO’s personal notes regarding the Capri acquisition further highlighted her
regarding Capri acquisition). Cannibalization and are of acute concern only for
Ordinary-course documents also reflect that Tapestry and Capri shared the concern
that if their respective brands lose market share, that market share will primarily accrue to the
other. For example, when a COVID-related shutdown in Vietnam threatened Coach’s ability
to obtain its planned inventory ahead of the 2021 holiday season, Kahn, Coach’s CEO, wrote
to several colleagues that it was “hard to swallow that we ma[y] walk away from over $100
million of Demand that is there for our taking. I would hate to see MK pick up that volume
by default.” PX1533 at 1; see Tr. at 467:13-468:13 (Kahn: “MK” means “Michael Kors”);
see also PX1306 at 1-2 (April 2021 Crevoiserat email commenting on Tapestry’s handbag
sales: “Have we really lost that much share to [Michael Kors] . . . (their business +26% to
46
The Court does not find compelling Harris’s attempt to downplay the significance of this
document during the hearing. See supra p. 81 n.30.
151
[Coach] -18% and KS -41%)?” but not commenting on Marc Jacobs’ commensurate growth in
market share).
On the other side of the same coin, Tapestry also views problems for Michael Kors as
opportunities for Coach/Kate Spade to capture market share from Michael Kors. For
example, in March 2021, Crevoiserat asked her subordinates to find out where Michael Kors
was closing stores, noting that it “[f]eels like an opportunity to grab share.” PX1703 at 2;
PX1219 at 1, 5 (March 2021 email to Crevoiserat regarding Michael Kors store footprint). 47
competitive focus on each other’s brands, evidencing the significant competition between
them that would be lost due to the merger. See Aetna, 240 F. Supp. 3d at 44 (defendants’
ordinary-course documents identifying each other as the “primary” competitor and “most
serious threat” was evidence of head-to-head competition); IQVIA, 710 F. Supp. 3d at 383
2. Pricing
Coach, Kate Spade, and Michael Kors also compete on pricing and discounting
strategies. With respect to price, a 2023 Coach presentation shown to Crevoiserat, Roe,
47
Defendants argue that Michael Kors’s market share declined from 2022 to 2023, and that
Tapestry’s market share has not proportionally increased, DFOF ¶ 8, suggesting that Michael
Kors, Coach, and Kate Spade are not particularly close competitors in a relevant market, Tr. at
1460:11-1461:8 (Tapestry Closing: “The reality is that companies like Michael Kors, Kate
Spade, and Coach are . . . losing share not to each other” but to other handbag companies,
demonstrating that “Kate Spade, Coach, and Michael Kors are just not putting any
competitive pressure on one another that is unique from the multitude of other competitors out
there today.”). However, the data cited by Defendants shows that in 2022, Michael Kors
declined in market share by 3.4 percent and Coach increased in market share by 1.1 percent.
Smith Reply Rep., tbl.1. Thus, the Court does not agree with Defendants that the evidence
does not show that Tapestry benefited from Michael Kors’s loss of market share.
152
Harris, and Kahn, among others, detailed Coach’s monthly average MSRPs and AURs for
handbags compared to Tory Burch, Michael Kors, and Kate Spade. PX1783 at 51. This was
not a one-off presentation; Coach presented similarly detailed price comparisons between its
handbags and Tory Burch, Michael Kors, and Kate Spade year after year. PX1536 at 15
(2022 Coach deck comparing prices to Tory Burch, Michael Kors, Kate Spade, and Marc
Jacobs); PX1137 at 1-2 (2021 email chain with Kahn and Levine, among others, sharing Kate-
Spade-collected data on Michael Kors price changes); Tr. at 783:15-21 (Levine: PX1137 “is
an example of where [Levine was] suggesting looking at Michael Kors’[s] pricing to see the
differences or similarities versus Coach’s pricing”); see also PX8028 at 1-2 (2022 Coach
document tracking Coach outlet pricing compared to Tory Burch, Kate Spade, and Michael
Kors); PX1546 at 42 (2021 Coach deck: “Consider competitive landscape, looking at MK,
TB, & KS pricing structures to understand ticket opportunity.”). Indeed, Levine, president of
Coach North America, instructed her team members to track Michael Kors’s prices, and sent
her employees into Michael Kors stores regularly to monitor Michael Kors’s pricing and foot
traffic. PX1547 at 1-2 (Levine instructing Coach team members to track Michael Kors and
Tory Burch prices); Tr. at 782:2-4, 785:16-786:5, 788:14-25 (Levine). 48 Notably, Levine
testified that Coach does not send employees to stores other than Michael Kors, Tory Burch,
and Kate Spade to monitor pricing and foot traffic, Tr. at 815:3-13 (Levine), further indicating
To the extent Defendants now argue that “Coach does not set its prices based on
competitor prices, much less Michael Kors’ prices,” DFOF ¶ 173, the Court does not find
48
The Court does not credit Levine’s conclusory assertion, lacking any corroboration in
ordinary-course documents, that Coach does not look at Michael Kors’s offerings “as often”
as it did in 2021 and early 2022. Tr. at 801:8-16 (Levine); see also id. at 895:16-20 (Levine).
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credible the conclusory and self-interested testimony by Tapestry witnesses that Michael Kors
“has no pricing constraint on [Coach’s] activities,” Tr. at 491:16-23 (Kahn). Indeed, Coach’s
“contextual[ize]” Coach’s own pricing decisions, which supports the conclusion that Coach is
in fact monitoring and responding to the prices set by the other largest players in the
for Coach to spend so much effort monitoring Michael Kors’s pricing if Michael Kors’s prices
Kate Spade also monitors and responds to the prices of Michael Kors handbags. For
example, one slide in an August 2023 Tapestry presentation depicted Kate Spade’s
“Competitive Pricing Update,” which analyzed Kate Spade’s target MSRPs and AURs for
handbags as compared to Michael Kors, Coach, and Tory Burch. PX1387 at 43. Discussing a
similar Kate Spade presentation, the then-senior director of merchandising at Kate Spade,
Bernson, testified that Kate Spade’s “long-term targets” were “for Kate Spade to price 5
percentage above Marc Jacobs, 10 percent above Michael Kors, 10 percent below Coach, and
example from August 2021, Parsons sent an email to Kate Spade executives (including
Fraser) stating that Michael Kors increased its prices on a certain handbag silhouette. PX1495
at 1. After noting the precise changes in Michael Kors’s prices, Parsons stated that the team
49
Defendants also assert that Tapestry tracks Michael Kors’s prices because its financial data
is available “more easily,” DFOF ¶ 172, not because Michael Kors is a close competitor of
Coach and Kate Spade. As explained earlier in this opinion, the Court does not find credible
the strained testimony offered by Tapestry witnesses that the same companies are consistently
tracked in Tapestry’s ordinary-course documents because their data is easier to obtain. See
supra at pp. 55-57.
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“will consider what this means for us as we focus on elevating and MSRP’s [sic].” Id. In yet
another example, an email in December 2023 to Fraser noted that “[c]ompetition is fierce.
[Michael Kors] changed promotion mid-day yesterday.” PX1923. That email continued with
promotions.” Id. Other examples of Kate Spade executives tracking and analyzing Michael
Kors’s pricing abound. See, e.g., PX1223 at 7 (2022 Kate Spade deck analyzing pricing
targets compared to Michael Kors and Tory Burch); PX1404 at 28-29 (2022 Kate Spade slide
deck comparing prices of particular handbag silhouettes and mix of price-points against
Coach, Tory Burch, and Marc Jacobs); PX1784 at 5 (2023 Kate Spade slide comparing prices
as against Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, Coach, and Tory Burch). There would be no reason
for Kate Spade to closely track Michael Kors’s pricing and take “actions” like “[a]mplifying
promotions” in response to Michael Kors’s prices, PX1923, if Michael Kors’s prices did not
Michael Kors also monitors and responds to the prices of Coach handbags. In a
Accessories: Michael Kors vs. Coach Pricing Comparison,” sets forth in great detail Michael
Kors’s pricing structure as compared to Coach’s pricing structure for outlet accessories,
including handbags. PX2108 at 2 (further capitalization omitted); see generally id. at 3-19;
see also, e.g., PX2178 at 2-3 (2023 Michael Kors pricing deck comparing pricing to Coach).
An additional 2021 presentation compared Coach’s and Michael Kors’s price points for
accessories of three levels of perceived quality. PX2727 at 3. Notably, for each price point,
Michael Kors’s price points were within a few dollars of Coach’s price points. Id. And
finally, in an August 2021 email, Newman, Capri’s president of accessories and footwear,
stated that Michael Kors “know[s] from inside intel that Coach is taking prices up” and that
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“John [Idol] does want us to goal [sic] being more expensive than them.” PX2047 at 1.
Newman continued: “For now I would move everything up into the next bucket and then we
can see how that compares to their [Coach’s] Fall prices and continue to monitor into Spring.”
Id. Indeed, consistent with the ordinary-course documents highlighted here, Idol testified that
he “most frequently compare[s] Michael Kors handbag prices to Coach.” Tr. at 101:6-8
(Idol). These documents and internal communications demonstrate the detail with which
Michael Kors executives tracked and responded to Coach’s pricing, evidencing head-to-head
competition.
In fact, the merging parties track and respond to each other’s pricing activities so
closely that Kate Spade and Michael Kors executives accused the other’s brand of driving
down prices. In March 2023, Fraser, then Kate Spade’s CEO and brand president, lamented
the “race to the bottom” when examining handbag prices from Coach, Kate Spade, Marc
Jacobs, Michael Kors, and Tory Burch. PX1321 at 1, 3. In an April 2023 email forwarding a
Coach promotional email, Wilmotte, CEO of Michael Kors, asked his subordinate to prepare a
presentation with “2 or 3 examples of [C]oach and [K]ate [S]pade racing to the bottom with
such promotions” so that the Capri board could “see what [Michael Kors] [is] up against.”
PX2097 at 1. Idol, Capri’s CEO, also monitored Coach’s pricing and discounting in order to
present that information to Capri’s board of directors. See, e.g., PX2331 at 1 (May 2023
email from Idol forwarding Coach email to Walsh, who forwarded email to Parsons: “A good
one for the BOD deck”); PX2128 at 8-12 (June 2023 Capri board presentation regarding
Michael Kors, detailing pricing and discounting of “competitive brand[s]” Coach, Tory
Burch, Kate Spade, and Marc Jacobs (capitalization omitted)); see also, e.g., PX2433 at 1
(April 2021 email from Idol forwarding Coach outlet promotional email: “They are going
low!!!”); PX2396 at 1 (April 2021 email from Idol regarding Coach promotional activity: “Let
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them blow their brakes out. Let’s go for the margin[.]”); PX2260 (April 2021 email from Idol
regarding Coach outlet strategy and growth). 50 Indeed, in some cases, Michael Kors explicitly
changed their promotional strategies in response to Coach and Kate Spade’s own discounting
in order to “align with the competition.” PX2105 at 1 (in response to April 2023 email from
Idol forwarding Coach outlet promotional email, Michael Kors employee noting Coach and
Kate Spade’s discounting for Mother’s Day and stating “we will be offering the same.
Previously we had planned a [different strategy] but we need to ensure we get our share of the
consumers’ Mother’s Day spend so we are going to align with the competition.”).
Overall, the Court finds that there is there is significant ordinary-course evidence that
the merging parties compete closely on pricing and discounting. See Aetna, 240 F. Supp. 3d
at 45-46 (evidence of defendant analyzing competitor’s price structure and changing pricing in
response was evidence of significant head-to-head competition); H & R Block, 833 F. Supp.
pressure on [its] pricing ability” is evidence of that merging parties “are head-to-head
competitors”).
3. Marketing
Defendants also compete on their marketing strategies. The evidence reflects that
Michael Kors executives are focused on monitoring and responding to Coach’s marketing
50
In response to questioning from the Court, Defendants asserted that their ordinary-course
documents referring to prices for accessible-luxury-handbags “racing to the bottom,” see
PX2097 at 1 (Wilmotte: “[C]oach and [K]ate [S]pade [are] racing to the bottom with such
promotions.”); PX1321 at 1, 3 (Fraser: Coach, Kate Spade, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, and
Tory Burch are in a “race to the bottom”), referred to “what’s going on in the industry” rather
than “competitive action that occurs as a result of these statements,” Tr. at 1457:25-1458:16
(Tapestry Closing). This is a distinction without a difference. The Defendants’ actions in
response to “what’s going on in the industry” is in fact their response to the competitive
environment in which they presently exist – that is, the pre-merger competitive environment.
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efforts. For example, in May 2023, Idol forwarded a marketing email from Coach to Michael
Kors executives, noting that “Coach’s creativity on these emails (outlet in particular) is killing
us . . . . Sorry our backgrounds look cheap and uninspiring. This needs to be corrected
marketing email, Idol instructed other executives to “develop a strategy to compete with this,”
stating, “I don’t love it but we have no choice.” PX2075 at 1. Other examples of Capri and
Michael Kors executives responding to Coach’s marketing strategies and lamenting Michael
Kors’s ability to compete with Coach abound. See, e.g., PX2114 at 1 (Idol forwarding a
December 2021 holiday marketing email from Coach, stating that “[t]hey are winning with
the Outlet and promotional strategy in the US. It’s not just brand heat!”); PX2260 at 1 (Idol:
“Coach’s always on outlet marketing is clearly working!”); PX2405 at 1 (Idol: “They are
clearly sending a massive amount more emails to consumers than we do. I know you have
said that productivity drops when sending more than one email to a customer per day but they
seem to be having great success with a different formula.”); PX2243 at 1 (June 2021 email
from Idol regarding Coach marketing email: “Love the hook up of Signature on ready to wear
and accessories. We need more ‘items’ like this.”); PX5078 at 158:8-16 (Bloom: Coach and
Kate Spade are “going after market share by increasing frequency of highly promotional
emails, which is fueling their growth and, we see in the data, hurting us.”). In fact, Capri
CEO Idol monitors Coach’s marketing emails so closely that his subordinates joke that he is
“the most engaged audience that Coach has.” PX5088 at 162:1-10 (Walsh). The fact that the
highest-level Capri executives monitor Coach’s marketing so closely and request actions from
subordinates so that Michael Kors can compete effectively with such marketing clearly
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Defendants also both engaged in
PX5088 at
by Kate Spade’s
( : during time as vice president at Michael Kors from June 2021 through
4. Final Analysis
are particularly close competitors. Despite the efforts of Tapestry and Capri witnesses to
“minimize the significance of the evidence of head-to-head competition between” them, “the
documents tell the story.” IQVIA, 710 F. Supp. 3d at 383, 385; see Staples II, 190 F. Supp. 3d
at 132 (“Defendants’ own documents created in the ordinary course of their business show
that Defendants view themselves as the most viable office supply vendors for large businesses
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in the United States. Not surprisingly, Defendants view themselves as each other’s fiercest
Defendants’ documents show that the merging parties clearly viewed their economic
competition to be from [each other], and not from the other sources as suggested by the
Defendants at trial.”). 51
B. Quantitative Evidence
quantitative evidence. Dr. Smith conducted a quantitative analysis to understand the likely
competitive effects of the proposed merger. He presented two quantitative assessments that
indicated that the merger would lead to consumer harm: an upward pricing pressure (“UPP”)
The Court first turns to the UPP analysis. UPP “roughly reflects the incentive for the
companies to increase prices after the merger.” Deutsche Telekom, 439 F. Supp. 3d at 238.
51
Because the Court finds compelling the evidence regarding head-to-head competition for
pricing, discounting, and marketing efforts, the Court does not reach the FTC’s further
arguments that Coach, Michael Kors, and Kate Spade also compete regarding the designs of
their handbags, PFOF ¶¶ 195-204, brick-and-mortar presence, id. ¶¶ 211-214, labor, id.
¶¶ 215-218, and sustainability efforts, id. ¶¶ 219-221.
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Smith Rep. ¶ 230. Dr. Smith’s UPP analysis indicates that after the merger Tapestry could
raise prices on Coach, Kate Spade, and Michael Kors handbags by an average of 18 percent in
his baseline case, or 13.1 percent in his more conservative sensitivity case. Smith Rep.
Dr. Smith also performed a “full merger simulation under standard assumptions on
consumer demand.” Smith Rep. ¶ 227. The merger simulation assumed that fashion retailers
and takes into account the anticipated strategic pricing responses of rival firms. Smith Rep.
¶ 259. Dr. Smith’s merger simulation indicated an average price increase of approximately 17
percent following the merger, Smith Rep. ¶ 266 & tbl.11, which could take the form of either
Hackensack, 30 F.4th at 172 (“Anticompetitive effects can include price increases and
reduced product quality.”). Dr. Smith’s merger simulation indicates consumer harm from the
merger of approximately $365 million per year. Tr. at 1395:8-18 (Smith); Smith Rep. ¶ 266.
Defendants’ only critique of Dr. Smith’s UPP analysis and merger simulation is that
“they are all based on the same input, which is his diversion ratio.” DFOF ¶ 184 (quoting Tr.
at 1254:12-1255:6 (Scott Morton)); see also DFOF ¶ 16; DCOL ¶ 79. For the reasons already
stated, the Court is not persuaded by Defendants’ criticisms of Dr. Smith’s diversion analysis.
See supra at pp. 75-87. Even if the diversion ratio, and thus the merger simulation, may be
imprecise in some ways, it is still probative of potential price increases after the merger.
IQVIA, 710 F. Supp. 3d at 387 (finding that “while the merger simulation is an imprecise tool,
it nonetheless has some probative value in predicting the likelihood of a potential price
increase after the merger”) (quotation marks omitted)). Thus, the Court finds that Dr. Smith’s
UPP analysis and merger simulation are persuasive additional evidence that the merger will
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cause consumer harm of approximately $365 million per year. This conclusion is reinforced
by the foregoing qualitative evidence that shows that the Defendants are particularly close
competitors, such that their merger would result in consumer harm. See, e.g., Sysco, 113 F.
other evidence in the record” indicating that the merging parties were “close competitors”);
Defendants assert that the evidence presented at the hearing “d[oes] not reveal the type
of unique ‘head-to-head competition’ that is the focus of Section 7 law.” DCOL ¶ 81.
Defendants initially cite to International Shoe Co. v. FTC, 280 U.S. 291, 298 (1930) for the
proposition that “the elimination of some head-to-head competition and some lessening of
competition is not sufficient under the law.” DCOL ¶ 77 (quotation marks omitted).
However, the Second Circuit has stated that “the amendment of Section 7 [of the Clayton Act]
in 1950 certainly casts doubt on decisions” such as International Shoe “interpreting that
section as it stood previously.” Hamilton Watch Co. v. Benrus Watch Co., 206 F.2d 738, 741
(2d Cir. 1953). Rather than looking to International Shoe, the Court has instead applied –
throughout this opinion – more recent authority interpreting Section 7 of the Clayton Act
In support of their argument that the FTC is not likely to succeed in showing
anticompetitive effects in a relevant market, Defendants assert that in Anthem, 236 F. Supp.
3d at 217-21, Staples, 190 F. Supp. 3d at 119-20, 122, H & R Block, 833 F. Supp. 2d at 82,
IQVIA, 710 F. Supp. 3d at 384, and Whole Foods, 548 F.3d at 1040, the respective plaintiffs
offered evidence that the close competition between the merging parties resulted in lower
prices. DOCL ¶ 81-85. Defendants argue that “[n]othing remotely close to the type of head-
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to-head competition evidence” that existed in those cases exists here. DCOL ¶ 86.
Defendants are incorrect. There are numerous examples of Coach/Kate Spade and Michael
each other. See supra at pp. 149-160. In addition, Dr. Smith’s merger simulation, which
indicates that the merger will result in $365 million in consumer harm annually, corroborates
the qualitative evidence indicating that the merger will result in a substantial lessening of
head-to-head competition. The Court thus finds that the FTC has offered evidence that the
Defendants also argue that the FTC’s case is deficient because it did not present
evidence of customers complaining that this merger will result in harm. DCOL ¶ 86. The
Court does not find the lack of consumer complaints to be probative. Dr. Smith testified
persuasively that the lack of complaints from wholesalers or other handbag brands was not
surprising because wholesalers could likely pass along price increases to their customers and
competing brands that are substitutes for the merging parties’ brands could likewise increase
their prices if the merger results in a lessening of competition. Tr. at 647:23-648:19 (Smith).
Individual consumers may not be cognizant of the potential anticompetitive effects of the
merger on their future purchases, and would certainly not be privy to much of the evidence
presented to the Court during this preliminary injunction hearing (particularly the evidence of
the economic experts) until well after the FTC’s action commenced. Most importantly,
though, although Defendants accurately note that several FTC merger challenges have
highlighted consumer complaints, see Tr. at 1451:1-11 (Tapestry Closing), they do not point
the Court to any authority requiring customer complaints in a Section 7 case, see generally
Opp.; DCOL; cf. Bazaarvoice, 2014 WL 203966, at *4 (enjoining merger despite defendant
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noting that “none of the 104 customers whose depositions are part of the record complained
D. Final Analysis
For these reasons, the Court finds that the merging parties are close competitors, such
that the merger would result in the loss of head-to-head competition. The Court thus finds
that there is persuasive additional evidence of unilateral effects of the merger causing
anticompetitive harm.
BALANCE OF EQUITIES
For the reasons set forth above, the Court finds that the FTC has made a “clear
showing,” Starbucks, 144 S. Ct. at 1575, of a “likelihood of ultimate success” on the merits,
15 U.S.C. § 53(b). Put differently, the Court finds that the FTC has “prove[n] that it is likely
to succeed in convincing a federal court of appeals that the transaction violates Section 7.”
injunctive relief.” Penn State, 838 F.3d at 352 (citation omitted). Nevertheless, before
granting a preliminary injunction under Section 13(b), the Court must “weigh[] the equities.”
15 U.S.C. § 53(b). Section 13(b) is “silent as to what specifically those equities are,” but
“[t]he prevailing view is that, although private equities may be considered, they are not to be
afforded great weight.” Penn State, 838 F.3d at 352. Id. As then-Judge Ginsburg explained,
private equities alone [does] not suffice to justify denial of a preliminary injunction barring
the merger.” Weyerhaeuser, 665 F.2d at 1083; see Opp. at 39 (favorably citing
The Court begins by considering the interests of “the public, whom § 7 was designed
to protect.” F. & M. Schaefer, 597 F.2d at 819. There is a strong public interest “in
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enforcement of the antitrust laws and in the preservation of competition.” United States v.
Columbia Pictures Indus., Inc., 507 F. Supp. 412, 434 (S.D.N.Y. 1980); accord Penn State,
838 F.3d at 352; United States v. Trib. Publ’g Co., No. 16-cv-01822, 2016 WL 2989488, at *5
(C.D. Cal. Mar. 18, 2016); FTC v. Swedish Match, 131 F. Supp. 2d 151, 173 (D.D.C. 2000).
consumers can simply choose not to buy if the price is too high ignores that handbags are
important to many women, not only to express themselves through fashion but to aid in their
daily lives – from supporting their career aspirations by transporting their work materials
such as medications or personal hygiene products, to carrying a young child’s snacks or toys.
Plaintiffs often prevail in Section 7 cases involving consumer goods that are arguably less
essential. See, e.g., United States v. Pabst Brewing Co., 384 U.S. 546, 552-53 (1966) (beer);
Warner, 742 F.2d at 1159 (prerecorded music); F. & M. Schaefer, 597 F.2d at 815-16
(regional beer); Spalding, 301 F.2d at 628-29 (sporting goods); Bertelsmann, 646 F. Supp. 3d
at 12 (anticipated top-selling books); United Tote, 768 F. Supp. at 1065, 1087 (racetrack-
gambling technology); Hamilton Watch Co. v. Benrus Watch Co., 114 F. Supp. 307, 315
(S.D.N.Y.) (jeweled watches), aff’d, 206 F.2d 738 (2d Cir. 1953). “By enacting Section 7,
Congress declared that the preservation of competition is always in the public interest.” Trib.
Publ’g, 2016 WL 2989488, at *5 (citation omitted). And by its text, Section 7 has no
The Court finds that denying injunctive relief pending completion of the FTC’s
administrative proceedings would likely cause irreparable harm to the public. For one thing,
“the potential harm that could occur to the public” during the interim, such as an increase in
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prices, could not “be recovered at the conclusion of an administrative proceeding at which the
government prevails.” FTC v. Libbey, Inc., 211 F. Supp. 2d 34, 54 (D.D.C. 2002). For
another thing, although the FTC would have the formal authority to seek divestiture if it
ultimately prevailed, see 15 U.S.C. § 21(b), “[a]dministrative experience shows that the
order of divestiture,” FTC v. Dean Foods Co., 384 U.S. 597, 606 n.5 (1966). “After a merger
closes and the two entities combine their assets and operations into a single corporate unit,
divestiture becomes decidedly more complex. The passage of time exacerbates those
complexities, not only for the combined entity but also for nonparties who will be affected by
a court order dividing the company.” Steves & Sons, 988 F.3d at 729 (Rushing, J.,
concurring); accord Univ. Health, 938 F.2d at 1217 n.23 (“[O]nce an anticompetitive
acquisition is consummated, it is difficult to ‘unscramble the egg.’”). Meanwhile, “[o]f all the
forms of equitable relief, a simple injunction prior to consummation of the merger transaction
If the Court did not enjoin the transaction, Tapestry “would acquire [Capri] and
undertake all of the business actions . . . that normally accompany mergers,” such as
terminating employees.” Trib. Publ’g, 2016 WL 2989488, at *5; see PX1726 at 180-81
(February 2024 presentation to Tapestry board about integration plans during first 90 days
post-merger). “It would be very difficult – if not impossible – to unwind these actions.” Trib.
Publ’g, 2016 WL 2989488, at *5. For instance, if Capri divulges confidential information to
Tapestry, such as “its marketing, pricing, advertising, and new product plans,” F. & M.
Schaefer, 597 F.2d at 818, “ultimate divestiture will not fully restore competition because
[Tapestry] will retain” that information, Weyerhaeuser, 665 F.2d at 1086. “These practical
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difficulties cannot be written off so easily,” Penn State, 838 F.3d at 353 n.11, and “[t]he Court
potential harm,” Tribune Publ’g, 2016 WL 2989488, at *5; cf. Opp. at 40 n.100 (claiming,
unpersuasively, that “Tapestry’s practice with its acquisitions of Kate Spade and Stuart
Weitzman has been to maintain them as separate, standalone businesses, which it will also do
here” and thereby mitigate “[t]he typical concern that an acquirer will ‘scramble the eggs’”).
Defendants make two principal arguments regarding the equities. First, they claim
that because the FTC is unlikely to prevail on the merits, granting injunctive relief is
inequitable. See Opp. at 39-40; DCOL ¶ 89. Given the Court’s finding that the FTC is likely
Second, Defendants assert that enjoining the merger preliminarily “will have the effect
of blocking the [merger] permanently.” DFOF ¶ 187. To be sure, courts often consider the
possibility that a “preliminary injunction may kill, rather than suspend, a proposed
transaction.” Weyerhaeuser, 665 F.2d at 1087. Usually, however, that is because the merging
parties directly state that they will abandon the merger if the court grants the preliminary
injunction. See, e.g., Penn State, 838 F.3d at 353 (“[T]he Hospitals have indicated in their
briefs to this Court that they would have to abandon the combination rather than continue to
quotation marks omitted)); Wilhelmsen, 341 F. Supp. 3d at 74 (“Defendants note that if this
court issues a preliminary injunction, they will abandon the transaction rather than continue
with the administrative proceeding – meaning that the efficiencies that they have identified
will be lost, along with their potential benefits to consumers.”); FTC v. Arch Coal, Inc., 329 F.
Supp. 2d 109, 160 (D.D.C. 2004) (merging companies said that they would “abandon the
transaction rather than undergo an administrative proceeding”). Yet Defendants have not
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gone so far as to state that they will abandon the deal if the Court enjoins it. See generally
At most, Defendants cite Capri CEO Idol’s testimony that the FTC proceedings are
“very disruptive for our company,” that Capri is “having a very difficult time currently
planning [its] future not knowing whether there will be a merger, [or] whether [Capri] will be
an independent company,” and that the situation is making “a lot of employees . . . very
uncomfortable” because “[t]hey don’t know what the situation is.” Tr. at 176:18-25; see
DFOF ¶ 190. These remarks fall short of saying that Tapestry and Capri plan to part ways if
this Court preliminarily enjoins the merger. And although the Court is not indifferent to the
uncertainties faced by the merging firms and their employees, their concerns amount to
“private equit[ies], and cannot on [their] own overcome the public equities that favor the
through the administrative litigation process, granting an injunction will necessarily kill the
deal.” Opp. at 40. The evidence does not necessarily bear that out. The parties’ merger
agreement provides that the merger “may be terminated” if the merger does not close by
February 10, 2025. PX1014 at 71-72 § 8.1(d). But until then, the parties “shall use their
reasonable best efforts to defend or contest, including through litigation or other means, any”
challenges to the merger. Id. at 53-54 § 6.2(a). And even if the merger does not close by
then, the parties “may” – not must – terminate the agreement. PX1014 at 71-72 § 8.1(d); see
Kingdomware Techs., Inc. v. United States, 579 U.S. 162, 171 (2016) (“[T]he word ‘may’ . . .
implies discretion[.]”). The Court “see[s] no reason why, if the merger makes economic sense
now, it would not be equally sensible to consummate the merger following a[n] FTC
adjudication on the merits that finds the merger lawful.” Penn State, 838 F.3d at 353.
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Defendants have not suggested any such reason, either. Thus, even if Defendants
“abandon[ed] the merger following issuance of the injunction” but before the completion of
the FTC’s proceedings, that result “would be [Defendants’] doing.” Id. Such a self-inflicted
injury is an insufficient basis for the Court not to enjoin the merger.
Without question, the Court’s findings of fact and conclusions of law in this opinion
are merely preliminary. The FTC “remains free to reach its own legal conclusions and
develop its own record in its administrative proceedings,” where it will have the chance to
apply its expertise to the complex issues at play. Starbucks, 144 S. Ct. at 1579. For now,
however, the Court finds that the balance of the equities clearly favors granting the FTC’s
CONCLUSION
For the foregoing reasons, the Court GRANTS the FTC’s motion for a preliminary
injunction. The Clerk of Court is respectfully directed to terminate the motion at Dkt. 121.
SO ORDERED.
JENNIFER L. ROCHON
United States District Judge
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