Great gifTs And a whole LOtTa wonderful Eating!

Last month, I released a new little chapbook: “Life Lessons I Learned from Being a Line This understanding didn’t happen overnight, but the appreciation and the elegant,
Cook.” It’s handsewn by Jenny Tubbs, the remarkable craftswoman of Zingerman’s Press, down-to-earth artistry of our daily work has, for me, been transformative. As John
and features a lovely illustration by the inspiring Zingerman’s artist of (5 years, Ian O’Donohue said in his book Beauty: The Invisible Embrace, “Beauty is not just a
Nagy. In comparison to the much bigger books I’ve put out on leadership and life, “Life call to growth, it is a transforming presence wherein we unfold towards growth al-
Lessons” is something of an espresso shot of insight into the world of Zingerman’s and most before we realize it. Our deepest self-knowledge unfolds as we are embraced
the workings of my mind. One of the lessons I share in it is how line cooking helped me by Beauty.” The beauty inherent in the food (and the people) we work with has most
to understand the vital role beauty and art play in my mental health—and probably in definitely helped my deepest self to begin to unfold. For that, I am forever grateful.
everyone else's. Below are two and a half dozen terrifically delicious foods from around the Zingerman’s
Line cooking also taught me that art is not an accident. If I wanted beauty to be a big Community of Businesses (ZCoB). Each is really remarkable in a wonderful way. Each
part of my life, I needed to lean in. Through the process, I learned that my life would brings an entirely new outlook on the product category from which it comes. Each has
be far better and richer when I went out of my mental way to make space for it. Beauty brought beauty to my own daily eating, and I’m confident that will likely do the same
could be created, sought out, found, lost, rediscovered, and savored again and again. for your life as well.
This, for me, is a lot of what great food is about! As I write in the chapbook, Thank you all so much for all your kindness, care, and support! Wishing you all a re-
Growing up, I would have naively and inaccurately told you that beauty and art warding and regenerative holiday season!
were mostly things to be found in museums or magazines. Food and cooking taught
me to embrace the exact opposite—the belief that beauty is something we can
each make, and take time to notice, all day, every day. Food and cooking gave me
a chance to make writer Toni Morrison’s statement come to life: “Beauty was not Ari Weinzweig
simply something to behold; it was something one could do.” Co-Founding Partner
Zingerman’s Community of Businesses

StolLen F rom Chocolate Babka from Hungar ian Walnut Beigli from
the bakehouse the bakehouse the Bakehouse
ClasSic GermAn ChRistMaS cAke Lots Of dark choCOlAte and A splaSh Great gifT And beautifUl pAsTry in the sTYlE of Budapest
with drIeD fRuit & spIceS of cinNamOn Over the last !5 years or so, these wonderful Walnut Beigli (pro-
A classic Zingerman’s holiday gift, this super tasty A classic sweet bread from the New York Jewish com- nounced bay-glee) have become one of our biggest holiday hits.
stollen is made with an incredible array of ingre- munity. If you’re not familiar with it, babka is tradi- While it’s still pretty new to many of us, in Hungary, it’s more
dients including sweet butter, Bacardi® white rum, tional Jewish sweet bread, akin to a light-textured like a !50-year-old tradition—beigli’s origins seem to date to the
candied orange and lemon zest, Michigan dried co%ee cake, or maybe a bit denser piece of Italian mid-!9th century. If you don’t already know it, beigli is a yeasted
cherries, citron, currants, almonds, golden and Red panettone. Babka has its roots somewhere in Eastern dough rolled up with a filling of crushed walnuts and sugar, subtly
Flame raisins, Indonesian cinnamon, lots of real va- Europe. It starts with a rich, slow-rise brioche dough enhanced by a bit of lemon, butter, and cream. The outside has a
nilla, and more. When you nibble a bit, at first you made with lots of butter, real vanilla, and fresh egg beautiful sheen to it and a unique, slightly mottled, crackly look
get a touch of creaminess on the tongue from the yolks. That, in turn, is sprinkled with chocolate crum- to its crust. Inside are swirls of a thick walnut-sugar filling. There
powdered sugar that coats the surface. Then you ble and orange syrup-soaked raisins, all of which get are a few dried currants in the mix to make the texture and flavor
taste the butter and a bit of the dried fruit as you formed into a fine-looking loaf, then baked o% to a bit more complex, but it’s the walnuts that are the star of the
break through the thin crust, then the tartness of a golden brown with a cinnamon-sugar crust. The show. The richness of the butter in the dough and the walnuts on
the dried cherries and the sweetness of the raisins. Bakehouse crew adds a good dose of dark choco- the inside are comforting and compelling at the same time.
The citrus stays brightly in the background; the va- late on top and into the middle as well. To say that Sip some good co%ee (like the Co%ee Company’s &0&' Holiday
nilla and cinnamon come through subtly, but mean- people love this stu% would be an understatement. Blend) and nibble slowly on a bit of beigli. Zsofie Towne, who grew
ingfully, in the finish. And it all lingers with a really It’s already got a LOT of loyal fans, and it seems to be up in Budapest and works at the Roadhouse, says beigli goes well
nice, mouth-watering finish. I snacked on some gaining more momentum all the time. Wonderfully with red wine or hot mulled wine. Either way, beigli is a beautiful
the other day, smiling, while sipping a cup of super delicious, babka makes a beautiful gift or an equally way to begin or end your day!
smooth siphon-brewed &0&' Holiday Blend co%ee terrific taste treat to keep in your kitchen for those P.S. On Tuesday, December !0, we’ll be hosting a special Hungarian
at the Co%ee Company. The Bakehouse’s Stollen is moments when you might need a small burst of cu- dinner at the Roadhouse, featuring Zsofie’s experience and insight.
available at the Bakehouse, Deli, and Mail Order. linary beauty! Details are on the Roadhouse website—it will be memorable!

isSue #307 . nov-dec 2024 1

 StreET Ched from Urban Stead German ChalLah from
Exceptional new clothbound cheDdar the Bakehouse
from CinciNnati A new nod to German Jewish coOking
Some of the best of the new generation of American-made Most American Jews—and for that matter, most Ameri-
c h e e s e s c o m e f ro m S c o t t R o b b i n s a n d A n d re a cans—are familiar with challah, the traditional bread
Siefring-Robbins of Urban Stead Creamery down in Cin- baked for Sabbath and holidays. As most of us know it,
cinnati. I met them a few years ago at the American Cheese and as we’ve long made it at the Bakehouse, it’s lightly
Society annual conference and learned in our first conver- sweetened honey and enriched with eggs, and also hugely
sations that we share a lot of values. Scott and Andrea set popular. There is another kind of challah though, one that
up their small business with the motto “cheddar for the is little known in the U.S. but has long been the norm in
better” with the idea of contributing generously to their the German Jewish community. What most German Jews
local community. will know as berches is made without eggs and it’s even
The first of their o%erings to land in the Deli’s cheese case more subtly sweet, so much so that savory food lovers like
is the award-winning cheese that they wittily named Street me might not even notice the small bit of honey we use
Ched. In the few years they’ve been making it they’ve al- in the recipe. Food writer Joan Nathan, whose work has
ready won a wide range of awards! It won a Gold Medal been an enormous influence on us over the years, is part
in this year's ACS competition—out of nearly !)00 entries of a German Jewish family in which berches is the norm!
from over &00 creameries. The Street Ched has everything And now, after all these years, we’ve begun to bake it here!
I would want a cloth-bound, English-style cheddar like this Whether you want a new way to celebrate the Sabbath, or
one to have. Deep rich flavors, buttery and nutty, with that you want to experience a bit of Jewish cultural diversity,
gentle hint of earthiness that’s so characteristic of the best or whether, like me, you just like to eat good bread, swing
British o%erings. by and grab a loaf or two soon!

Pimento CheEse from the CreameRy DelicIous Candied O range SLices

A Southern clasSic is now a Midwestern staple in Dark Chocolate
Back in the early years of the &!st century, very few Michiganders were familiar with pimento RemarkAblE confeCtiONary cRAft, handmADe iN dubaI
cheese. At least if they were they kept their cravings impressively quiet—I can hardly remember One of the tastiest confections I’ve had in a long time, these oranges
a customer even asking for it. I found out about it in &005, on one of my early visits to the South- coated in dark chocolate are so delicious that I’ve been eating them
ern Foodways Alliance symposium in Oxford, Mississippi, and we started making it in the ZCoB regularly. They are so, so good!
shortly thereafter. A few years later it even got its own t-shirt declaring: “Zingerman’s, Pimento Mirzam is the product of a wide and inspiring vision—one that belongs
Cheese Capital of the Midwest.” to its founders and also to chief chocolate maker Kathy Johnston—to
Today, you can get pimento cheese at the Bakehouse, Cream Top Shop, Deli, and Roadhouse craft chocolate from start to finish in the desert. These are a particular
every day. It’s featured on the super tasty Caviar of the South toast at the Co%ee Company. And passion for Kathy, who wrote to me that “because of the slow cook-
of course, we ship some serious quantities of it around the country, including, I will add with a ing process we do in-house, using the whole fruit and all the juice to
smile, back to its culinary homeland in the South. Roger Townley, who lives in North Carolina, get a really bright orangey flavour without adding anything artificial.
wrote this past summer to say, I love them!”
My wife Jane and I recently returned from Ann Arbor for our semi-annual pilgrimage to Zin- The dark chocolate-covered candied oranges come in a beautiful box
german’s. Among other things, we made a first-time purchase of pimento cheese spread. which makes them a great gift and an easy way to put something super
Having resided in North Carolina for over !0 years we have sampled numerous brands of tasty and sweet out on the table at your house. Don’t miss the lovely
commercial pimento and pimiento cheese spreads. NC and SC love to brag about their pi- label by the Rumanian-born artist Aitch. And, of course, you don’t have
mento cheese spreads and most are quite tasty. Jane and I would like to add Zingerman’s to give the chocolate as a gift to appreciate them—I just bought them to
Pimento Cheese Spread to the top of our list of favorites and we will be ordering more soon eat at home, and man, are they good! I actually finished the box while
to share with our family and friends. working on this piece!
Pick up a pound or let us ship some to wherever you live. P.S. Love Mirzam’s spiced caramels too!

2 isSue #307 . nov-dec 2024

 Askinosie Chocolate’s Artisan CuLTura Craft Chocolate Jumbleber Ry CofFEe Cake
Malted MiL k BalLs at the Candy Store from the Bakehouse
A clasSiC AmerIcan CoNfEctiOn Handmade in Colorado A swirl of juIcy berRiEs In a
taken To thE NexT lEveL A wonderful new arrival at our Candy Store, sweEt buTter TEa cAke
The crew at Askinosie Chocolate has transformed the Cultura is a terrific artisan dark chocolate made For nearly '0 years now, our Sour Cream Co%ee Cake has
classic sweet treat of American movie theaters into a in Colorado by Damaris Ronkanen and her crew. been a staple of Zingerman’s eating. As we approach the
world-class confection that serious chocolate lovers will Based on what she learned visiting her grandpar- final year of the first quarter of the &!st century, it’s selling
love. Making them requires eight hours of spinning the ents in Mexico when she was a young girl, all of better than ever! And now, I’m excited about our newest
centers in dark chocolate, direct-sourced from Tanzania Cultura’s chocolate is bean-to-bar. variation. A special version of the Sour Cream Co%ee Cake
by my good friend Shawn Askinosie, so that thin layer Ronkanen works directly with that’s juiced up with what we call Jumbleberry—a blend
after thin layer of cacao covers the soft, crumbly, o%-white farmers in producing countries, we assemble at the Bakehouse of raspberries, black-
colored centers. Unlike commercial versions, they have ranging from Haiti, Mexico, and berries, blueberries, and cranberries. You get a whole
none of that all-too-common industrial stu% added to give more. I love the Day of the set of superfine flavors in every slice—buttery, creamy,
that shiny smooth look, so they have a rustic look and Dead-themed illustrations tart, lively, elegant, and excellent. Pick one up at the
feel. The aroma is amazing—when you open the package, on the packages. Bakeshop or Deli for your house! Or let us ship some to
you’ll immediately be hit with the smell of good choco- your sister-in-law in South Carolina!
late. Crisp, light, and not at all too sweet, they have a re-
ally great flavor!

Vermont Creamery Malt VinegaR Spicy IASA Peperoncino

Cultured ButTer from CornwalL from the Amalfi Coast
A wonderful adDition to the ZCoB repertoire An artisAN veRSIon Of BritaIN’s One of the best things I’ve tasted
Ever since we brought in the Vermont Creamery Cul- most faMOuS vinegAr in the last 10 years!
tured Butter it has been drawing universal raves! After a lifetime of finding only industrial versions of
If you like spicy food, you will NOT want to miss this incredible
Amy Emberling, longtime co-managing partner at malt vinegar, I’m excited we now have access to this
jarred spread/sauce of amazing red peppers from the hills around
the Bakehouse and a member of our Stewardship really amazing artisan o%ering from Cornwall. It comes
Salerno in southern Italy. It’s so good, Tammie and I buy it by the
Council, has been baking with butter professionally from the aptly named Artisan Malt Vinegar Company.
quart jar regularly! The IASA peperoncino is that good.
for over (0 years. When I asked what she thought They make it from a range of artisan malts that have
rich, nutty, even chocolatey flavors. The new vinegar IASA is made in the small Italian town of Cetara, from a variety
about this new arrival, her answer was both quick
then goes into oak barrels where its conversation with of pepper called “Amante” by locals. The fresh, brilliant crimson
and clear: “It’s phenomenal butter!” As per ev-
the wood leaves all involved richer for the connection. peppers are mashed to a coarse paste, mixed with olive oil, and
erything I had to say in the pamphlet “A Taste of
Conversion is old school, naturally by exposure to air left to macerate for a few months to develop many layers of com-
Zingerman’s Food Philosophy,” you really can taste
and acetobacters over the course of many months. The plex flavors. The peperoncino are fairly hot—not mind-blowing
the di%erence.
result is, as per our long-standing definition of quality, so, like eating a habanero, but markedly more than mild. The IASA
The Vermont Creamery Cultured Butter is made with
traditional and far more full-flavored. peperoncino has an exceptionally long finish and full flavor with
cream that comes solely from the nearby St. Albans
a remarkable bit of umami in the mix.
Cooperative. The cream is cultured overnight and The flavor? Complex. Nutty—almondy, almost. Maybe
only then churned into butter. This is how all great a light blend of less-sweet balsamic, with a bit of the Probably my top choice is to mix it with pasta. I just add a tiny bit
butter was made !50 years ago before the advent of umami of fine fish sauce. Chef Josh Eggleton of En- more olive oil and a bit of cheese grated over top. In fact, the IASA
refrigeration allowed for a series of cost-saving and gland’s Salt and Malt fish and chip shop says, “Artisan peperoncino is a critical ingredient in what Italians call aglio, olio,
flavor-reducing shortcuts. A bit of French sea salt is Malt Vinegar is delicious. It’s got a brilliant depth of e peperoncino—pasta with garlic, oil, and peppers. Spread some
added, and that’s it. In the spirit of slowness, it takes flavor that you just don’t find elsewhere.” It’s also re- of the IASA peperoncino on grilled cheese sandwiches, or serve it
a lot longer to make the butter in this old way, but ally great on a light quick cucumber salad for pickling with eggs or egg salad—a dab on deviled eggs is delicious! Put it on
you sure can taste the di%erence. At 8)% butterfat, onions, or barley or farro salads. And of course, on hot slices of pizza at the table. Add a bit to mashed potatoes, rice,
it’s creamy, rich, smooth, and delicious with a lovely fish and chips! avocados, or avocado toast. The options are essentially endless.
long finish. The American standard for butter, by the P.S. At the Roadhouse, we’re serving beer-battered
way, is 80%. Even most fancy European butters are (made with Wolverine Pub Ale) fish and chips on Thurs- We have the IASA peperoncino on the retail shelves at the Cream
8&% or 8(%. Honestly, pretty much every single per- day, with some of this amazingly flavorful vinegar on Top Shop and the Deli. It’s regularly on the menu at the Roadhouse
son who tries this butter loves it! the side. and is also available from Mail Order.

isSue #307 . nov-dec 2024 3

 Newly Ar Rived Goat CheEse Dutch Gouda from
from CatalunyA De GraAfstroOm Dairy
GarRotxa makes its return to ANn Arbor Artisan aGed cheEse from a 115-year-old
Full-flavored, but not strong, sort of firm but still creamy on the farmers coOperative
tongue, Garrotxa (pronounced gah-row-tcha) is one of those A really tasty, rarely seen on this side of the Atlantic, tradi-
cheeses that appeals to almost everyone! Cheese aficionados love tional Gouda from the Netherlands. De Graafstroom Dairy
it and newcomers who might be anxious about a naturally rinded was founded in the Zuid-Holland village of Bleskensgraaf
cheese like this almost always embrace it as well! in !908, about 55 miles due south of Amsterdam in what’s
A traditional cheese from Catalunya, Garrotxa is rarely seen out- known as the “Green Heart of the Netherlands.” The dairy
side its homeland so that makes me all the happier to have it here was initially established with the express intention of being
in Ann Arbor. In fact, it was pretty much extinct for many centu- run “by farmers for farmers.” One hundred and sixteen years
ries up until the early !980s when a few dedicated cheesemakers later those same intentions still guide the group.
decided to revive it. The cheese we have on hand is made by the The extra-aged wheels we have on hand right now evidence
Formatgeria Sant Gil. Owned by Josep Martí since !98!, a year be- everything I like about a good Gouda, with just a little bit of
fore we opened the Deli, the dairy is operated in the same house something synergistically extra that makes it all the more
he grew up in! magical. Be sure to serve it at room temperature so its com-
Made from the milk of Murcian goats, Garrotxa is aged in natural plex, caramelly flavor can really come out. Nutty, buttery,
caves to enhance mold development making for a gray dusty natu- terrific, the De Graafstroom Gouda has a great long finish, a
ral rind and some really great flavor. It's got a firm texture, an ivory gentle touch of bitterness, a balanced bit of sweetness, and
interior, and a deep-down, delicious earthy goat flavor. Great with a whole bunch of compelling character.
a loaf of warm crusty country bread, a handful of toasted hazel- De Graafstroom Extra Aged Gouda is wonderful with beer
nuts, and a ripe pear. In Catalunya, Garrotxz is commonly served or wine. It’s delicious in the typical Dutch way of eating
topped with honey, nuts, and dried fruit of all sorts—try it with breakfast—slices of dark bread (like the Bakehouse’s Vol-
some of those sun-dried Kishmish raisins we get from the folks lkornbrot or Dinkelbrot), cultured butter (see that very won-
at Ziba in Afghanistan. If you see Concord grapes at the farmers derful Vermont Creamery Cultured Butter),
market, their tart-sweet flavors marry beautifully with the milky De Graafstroom Gouda, and a good
goatiness of the cheese. cup of co%ee. As they say in the
Netherlands, “Bon appetit!”

Roadhouse Bread fRom the Bakehouse ValseREna ParmiGIano ReGgiano

A taste of America’s past to put on local tables today Farmstead cheEse from a 5th generation family-run dairy
This bread has been one of my favorites for over &0 years now, ever since the If you’ve never tried the cheese from Valserena, you’re in for a treat. Located in the
Bakehouse crew did the work to make this old American recipe anew for what lowlands of the Po River Valley, the caseificio at Valserena is the oldest Parmigiano
was about to become Zingerman’s Roadhouse. dairy in the Parma district. It’s one of the few farmstead Parmigiano Reggiano cheeses
What we call Roadhouse bread was a very popular loaf amongst !8th and still made—all the milk comes exclusively from the Serra family’s own herd. They raise
!9th-century New Englanders. As it would have been &00 years ago, Roadhouse the animals, grow the feed, milk the animals, and make the cheese right on the farm.
bread is made with a mix of organic wheat, rye, and corn, subtly sweetened up Of particular note is the fact that their herd is made up exclusively of the rare and very
with a bit of molasses. special Sola Bruna cows (an Italian brown breed). The Serra family started to bring them
A few years ago, as part of the inspiring and insightful Grain Commission proj- to their land from the Alps all the way back in !8+9. Valserena is one of only four dairies
ect, we began to mill our own rye berries (which we get from a farm in western that make cheese solely from Sola Bruna milk, which is particularly rich in butterfat and
Illinois) right here at the Bakehouse. That innovative work took an already great known for making excellent cheese.
bread and made it even better still. Fresh milling leaves natural nutrients intact Because it’s so good, the Valserena cheese is great on its own. It’s best when it’s broken
and also improves the flavor and texture. There’s just something a bit more vital, into small uneven nuggets—not cut with a knife into straight-sided cubes. The rough
a little bit livelier, a touch lovelier, and the texture seems to hold its moisture edges add to the richness and complexity of the eating experience.
a bit longer. You can cook with the Valserena cheese too. I grate it onto vegetable soups, salads (I
The Roadhouse bread makes super marvelous toast—I love it with either the love it on a simple green salad), or pasta. It’s particularly good with pasta made with soft
Creamery’s cream cheese or fresh goat cheese. It’s also on the totally terrific toast butter and basil, a dish I like to make with short, squat pasta. The Valserena Parmigiano
menu at the Co%ee Company, where we serve it with Pimento Cheese from the Reggiano is delicious with great varietal honey (especially for me, chestnut honey), red
Creamery. And it’s on the bread service at the Roadhouse, served with some of the walnuts, and a few Rancho Meladuco dates.
wonderful Vermont Creamery Cultured Butter (that also appears in my Top (0)! P.S. If you’re in search of an amazing gift that will be remembered for years to come,
Come by the Bakehouse, Deli, or Roadhouse to try this terrific bread, or have a pair a pound of this special cheese with a bottle of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale (the
loaf or two shipped your way. real, very rare and special Balsamic vinegar)—a few drops of the vinegar on a small
rough-edged piece of the Parmigiano Reggiano is something truly special.

4 isSue #307 . nov-dec 2024

 Mancini MACcheroni
TteokboKki from MisS Kim The only farmstead pasta in Italy
The spicy dish that takes the cake Pasta Mancini, from the Marche region on Italy’s east coast, has become a regular item at our
The most popular dish at Miss Kim for many years now, they’re a really fine house, and on our shelves at the Deli. It’s also been the “house” pasta at the Roadhouse for
fit for our food philosophy: traditional, with a great story behind it, super the last few years for our Mac & Cheese! Mancini is unique among my list of favorites because
tasty, and the kind of thing you could easily eat a couple times a week— it is essentially a farmstead pasta. In the same way that estate olive oils contain all their own
or for the fanatic, even once or twice a day! Like Reubens from the Deli, olives or that farmstead cheeses use milk only from their own herds, the grain for the Mancini
bread from the Bakehouse, Cream Cheese from the Creamery, and Fried pasta comes from their own fields.
Chicken at the Roadhouse, Miss Kim’s Tteokbokki has become one of THE What makes Mancini so special?
tastiest and most talked about items of the ZCoB. • They store the newly harvested grain at )'.'°F.
If you like spice and you like rice cakes, this • Various wheat varieties grown on the farm are blended annually—like a great wine—to get
is the dish for you. Seriously, it’s a fan the flavor the family is looking for in the finished pasta. With that in mind, the finished pasta
favorite. And a sta% favorite. Tender will, as good agricultural products are meant to be, be slightly di%erent in flavor each year.
rice batons cooked in a spicy (not
• Low-temperature mixing (as we do at the Bakehouse for breadmaking) to protect the in-
super spicy but definitely spicy) sauce
tegrity of the grain.
laced with small bits of tender pork
• Bronze die extrusion to ensure the essential rough surface that’s so important to holding
belly. Topped with a six-minute egg
the sauce.
and embroidered with lovely little
red chile threads, the little tender • Slow, low-temperature drying, and, as the family explains,
pieces of pork, the spice of the go- We have created specific drying recipes for each pasta shape based on variations in tem-
chujang sauce … it all combines to perature, humidity, ventilation, and rest. We dry Mancini pasta at temperatures below
make for one seriously compelling [131°F], with minimum peaks of [96.8°F] … ranging from 24 to 44 hours depending on the
dish. Tteokbokki are a spicy, sweet, pasta shape, preserving healthiness and taste with the finished product.
salty, fatty, crispy, chewy, and ten- When you cook Mancini pasta, the aromas of the grain will fill your
der masterpiece that will pique kitchen while you’re cooking. The pasta really is fantastic. Great
your interest at first bite and chewy texture (be sure to cook al dente) and wonderful flavor.
leave you coming back for
more time and time again.
They’re so good!

RustichelLa’s Pr imoGRano A Nod to NocCIOliva

Pasta with its rOots in family busineSs from 1924 Super tasty chocolate hazelnut spread from Italy
Another amazing pasta from another fantastic family. A bit further down Italy’s east coast, we have been Everything about this Italian chocolate hazelnut spread
selling and swooning over the pasta from the Rustichella family, in the Abruzzo region, for something like is inspiring. It’s made by the small artisan firm of Colle de
(5 years now! Gusto (“hills of flavor”) in the tiny town of Fara di Sabina,
Every pasta they make is great. The PrimoGrano though is a very limited edition. The name means “first grain.” in Lazio, smack in the center of Italy. There are, of course,
I’m honored that we get to be one of the only places in the U.S. to get some. PrimoGrano is a project that any number of chocolate hazelnut spreads to be had on
Gianluigi has been working on for &0 years now. “We started to make the pasta in &00' for the 80th anni- the market. You’re likely familiar with the commercial ver-
versary of the company,” he told me this summer, adding, sions. Next to the Noccioliva, to my taste, they’re a bit like
We worked with the University of Foggia in Puglia (a few hours south of his hometown of Pianella) and the American cheese slices I was raised on.
we started to study the new variety of grain. We finished this variety—what we call San Carlo—in 2002. The Noccioliva is made from a very high percentage ((8%)
The yield is lower, but the flavor is very good. We did the first experiment for 2003 to grow three hectares. of Italian hazelnuts (some of the best in the world), dark
Just to make a small amount to taste for the 80th anniversary. chocolate, extra virgin olive oil, and a small bit of sugar.
And now five years further down the road, the PrimoGrano is actually ready for you and me to eat regularly. It has just that right balance—nutty, savory, sweet, and
super-rich but still light. It’s the creation of Antonio della
Gianluigi says, “I wanted to make a product the way it was in !9&'”—the year his grandfather started the
Corte, a masterful former gelato maker, and Anna Maria, a
family business. He wanted to honor the flavor and texture of the pasta of his grandfather’s era and, in fact,
farmer and bed and breakfast owner, who together chose
respectfully, to make one even better than that. “Now we have the techniques of today so that the taste is
to use high-quality extra virgin olive oil as the emulsifier for
like it was then but the texture is much better.”
their spreads. The oil comes from the Sabine Hills northeast
The milling is done at Rustichella’s usual spot, one of the smallest in Italy now, that specializes in custom
of Rome. It’s impressively not all that sweet at all but it is
work like this. The dough is extruded through the bronze dies, and then dried very slowly (by modern stan-
remarkably tasty!
dards—they haven’t gone back to sun drying!). The pasta cooks up fairly quickly actually—Gianluigi says this
Spoon some Noccioliva atop gelato, add a bit to yogurt, or
is because the Abruzzo wheat is a bit lower in protein than the imported wheats that are blended into their
to some of that really amazing ricotta we get at the Cream
other pastas. The flavor is wheaty, delicate, and really pretty delicious.
Top Shop from Bellwether Farms in California. I just spread
We’ve got the Primo Grano in three shapes. Chitarra are the traditional square-shaped long pasta of the
it on Bakehouse toast at home! Or maybe better still, grab a
Abruzzo. Pennee are quill-shaped and bear the same name as the village in which Gaetano got the pastificio
Bakehouse baguette and a jar of Noccioliva—rip o% chunks
going back in the ’&0s. And finally, the squiggly edged, really cool looking, Sagna a Pezzi. All definitely have
of bread and spoon on the spread! I LOVE it on a croissant!
that sort of light nutty delicate deliciousness. To bring out the best of that wheatiness, I’ve been dressing it
A great way to enjoy the amazing combination of bread
lightly and with soft flavors—just good olive oil and grated cheese; sautéed zucchini and bits of fried pancetta;
and chocolate
white beans, fresh rosemary, a touch of well-sautéed celery, and a generous dose of good fruity green olive oil.

isSue #307 . nov-dec 2024 5

 Zingerman’s Traditional Pit-Smoked Whole Chickens
Cream CheEse from the Roadhouse
Handmade the way it would have beEn 100 years ago Great weEkday meal for barbecue lovers to eat in or take out
This was the first cheese we made, and for me, it remains at the If it’s Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday, give some thought to
core of the work we do at the Creamery. swinging by and picking up one of these exceptional oak-smoked chick-
The production process of traditional American cream cheese ens from the Roadhouse. I can say from a LOT of personal experience
the way we do it at the Creamery is pretty simple. Newly arrived that they make an exceptional evening meal!
milk is gently pasteurized. Cream is added to enrich the milk A whole Amish chicken, rubbed with our freshly ground, farm-to-table
(hence the name, “cream cheese”), then poured into a cheese Tellicherry black pepper and salt, put on the pit to smoke slowly over
vat where (vegetarian) rennet and active cultures are added to smoldering whole oak logs for about three or four hours. We’ve had them
begin flavor development and set up the curd. After a few hours, on the carryout menu for the last few years, during which time they’ve
the newly formed, soft-textured curd is hand-cut with stainless been a very regular item at our house. All you need to do is call ahead
steel knives, then hand-ladled into cloth bags where gravity to order one, then swing by the Roadhouse and pick it up.
drains o% excess moisture for six or seven hours. After draining, You can also get the Roadhouse’s Pit-Smoked Chickens inside the restau-
some sea salt is added and carefully mixed into the soft curd. rant for dinner. We’re still on that same limited-times and limited-days
The handmade product is wonderfully smooth in texture, with schedule—Monday through Thursday, dinner only, and, when we’re out
a fresh milky flavor. One of the great things about eating fresh we’re out. The beautiful oak-smoked, Tellicherry black pepper-dusted
handmade cream cheese is that it doesn’t have any of the pasty bird comes plated with side dishes that make it a great dinner and a
mouthfeel that you get in the gum-laden commercial stu%. Re- great deal!
ally, other than the pasteurization (which is required by law Perhaps even more importantly to the season, the pepper-coated,
because the cheese isn’t aged for over )0 days), it’s pretty much oak-smoked birds are now on the Roadhouse Take Home Holiday menus
just as it was a century ago. And it’s remarkably tasty! too, both for Thanksgiving and Christmas.
What do you do with this super delicious old-school cheese? If you have leftovers, I’ll share that they’re awesome for adding to soup
Obviously you can put it on the Bakehouse’s terrific bagels. On or salad, making into smoked chicken salad, or just nibbling on out of
Tuesdays, you can put it on a bialy too! Put it on sandwiches or the fridge when you need a snack. Tammie and I take the bones that are
stick it in an omelet. It’s wonderful at parties topped with jam, left behind and boil them with an array of vegetables to make a mag-
marmalade or honey. ically terrific broth. (When we serve it, we drop on a spoonful of that
IASA peperoncino!)

CarAway Rye from the Bakehouse BanANa Milk Gelato at MisS Kim
Rye bread the way it was 100 years ago A taste of Korean childhood becomes a delicious ZCoB deSsert
One of my favorite Bakehouse breads for as long as I can remember now. So If you go to Miss Kim and read over the menu, you might, understandably, be focused on
many of our Deli sandwiches are made with Jewish Rye bread, which is won- the array of amazing regional Korean dishes that chef and managing partner Ji Hye Kim and
derful but doesn’t have whole caraway seeds in it. Given the chance to make the crew cook up every day. Down at the bottom, with the other drinks, it would be easy
the choice for myself, I’d opt for the Caraway Rye each time. A thick slice, to miss “Banana Milk: Homemade banana syrup and whole milk.” Don’t pass it by. Thanks
hand-cut from a fresh loaf (I far prefer the roughness of slices cut by hand) and to a great collaboration between Ji Hye and Lexi Stand at the Creamery, we now have Ba-
spread with the Creamery’s handmade Cream Cheese is, to my taste, one of the nana Milk Gelato. I love it when any of the businesses in the ZCoB make great traditional
best combos one can get at Zingerman’s. Toasted and spread with some of that products. And I love it even more when we have a creative cross-business collaboration
Vermont Creamery butter is almost as good. Great dunked in chicken soup or like this one! Ji Hye shares:
spread with chopped liver. Banana milk is a ubiquitous childhood snack that I grew up with. It is very simply ex-
The Bakehouse’s rye bread—with or without caraway—has been pretty amazing actly what the name conveys: a banana-flavored milk. Traditionally, dairy cows were
since we started making it back in the mid-’90s. What makes it so good? A lot not common at all in Korea, and drinking milk was practically unheard of for most
more rye flour than most bakeries use, a real rye starter (instead of something people. But in the 19(0s, when a food company decided to mix it with bananas—then
out of a can), baking on the stone hearth, steam in the oven to help develop an exotic fruit for the country—the sale of milk skyrocketed. I remember bananas being
the crust, and hard work by the bread bakers at the Bakehouse result in some precious and sought after, especially by children. Our banana milk, made with very
really great tasting loaves. ripe bananas, is a world apart from a commercial one. From there, we took it to another
Two years ago we raised our own quality ante when we began buying rye from level with the Creamery to turn it into gelato. The result is a satisfying banana flavor
western Illinois and milling it fresh here at the Bakehouse. All of which is taken with local milk, and none of the overly sweet fake banana flavor of commercially made
one step further still at the Deli by double baking (putting the loaf unwrapped ones. Hope you enjoy this lovely and creamy ice cream with the flavors of my childhood.
into a (50°F oven for about &0 minutes or until the crust is crisp and center Swing by Miss Kim for lunch or dinner and have a scoop of Banana Milk Gelato for dessert.
hot and steamy) and then hand slicing every loaf while it’s still warm to bring It’s creamy and tastes deeply and deliciously of banana. I love it. A delightful, sweet taste
out that crust. When you double bake at home, one added bonus is that the of Korea in Kerrytown! Or drop by the Cream Top Shop and skip straight to the sweets—
entire house is likely to be perfumed with this great aroma. you can get Banana Milk Gelato in a cup or a cone!

6 isSue #307 . nov-dec 2024

 Pleasant Ridge Reser ve CheEse Holiday BLend 2024 from the CofFEe Company
from Southwest WisconSin An anNual favorite returns for the season
New award-winNing batch crafted by Uplands CheEse If you’re thinking about what to drink when you dive into a nice bite of pecan pie
The cheese is made—as all cheese used to be !50 years ago—strictly seasonally. It’s from the Bakehouse this seasonal brew from the Co%ee Company could just be the
done in Dodgeville, Wisconsin, by Andy Hatch and the crew at Uplands, only in the trick. We’ve been doing an annual Holiday Blend for over a decade now—the &0&(
spring, summer, and autumn when the cows are out in the pasture grazing and the vintage maintains the tradition of marvelous flavors while still bringing its own per-
variety of grasses makes for an exceptionally interesting set of flavors. The rotational sonality to the flavorful fore! This year, Steve, Matthew, Chris, and everyone at the
grazing methods that Uplands adheres to are also good for the soil—the pastures Co%ee Company have put together a trio of terrific beans:
get a chance to replenish themselves and stay healthy. It's made only from raw milk, Uganda – A remarkable Natural Process Uganda from the Rwenzori Mountains is
which means that the complexity of the “raw material” is preserved in the flavor of really remarkable. Syrupy, bright, with notes of peach and nectarine, and a hint
the final cheese. of chocolate or cocoa, you could say, in the finish.
Each year, a small subset of the skilled Zingerman’s cheese aficionados sit down to Brazilian Espresso Blend #! – from our friends at Daterra in Brazil. Sustainably
taste and compare a range of Pleasant Ridge—because each day’s milk is di%erent, so grown, carefully processed, and big, well-rounded flavor.
too is the cheese that’s made from it. Wines have vintage years but farmstead cheese Costa Rica from the Hacienda Miramonte – we’re using naturally processed
is di%erent every day! And while every wheel of Pleasant Ridge is really good, we co%ee, which means the beans were dried in the sun with the fruit still attached,
want the ones that stand out among them all! To wit, we select a couple days’ “make” amazing sweetness, and a rich, velvety body.
that we like best, Andy Hatch the Uplands crew set those aside for us, and for the Steve Mangigian says, “I love that this collection of co%ees is so repre-
next year, we get those special cheeses! sentative of some of the best relationships we have—we know ALL of
This year, the selection turned out to be even more special! In July at the American these producers personally and they are some of the longest-standing
Cheese Society, Pleasant Ridge won a whole range of awards! And, I’m happy to say, relationships we have. This year’s Holiday Blend is a beautiful homage
most of them were for the cheeses our crew had chosen! Which means that when to the support they have given us through the years!”
you come into the Deli, Creamery, Roadhouse, or Mail Order and buy Pleasant Ridge At the Coffee Company, Deli, Roadhouse, and Mail Order!
you will truly be buying a slice of an award-winning cheese! Want to sign up for regular shipments of Zingerman’s
Coffee? Check out the Zingerman’s Coffee Club
at zingermans.com.

Marash Red PepPer Les Moulins Mahjoub Har isSa F rantoio Grove’s OutsTanding OLive Oil
from Eastern Turkey Traditional spicy spread from Tunisia Newly arRived oil from California
The magical spice of the MediterRanean For nearly &0 years now, one of THE tastiest foods in About half an hour south of San Jose, the fifth and sixth generations
If you want an easy way to help bring the our very large repertoire of deliciousness is the tradi- of the Martin family are crafting some of this country’s most delicious
flavors of your cooking alive in under a min- tional harissa from the Mahjoub family in Tunisia. It’s olive oil. It’s produced using regenerative farming techniques, and
ute, you might want to pick up a jar of this a family recipe that goes back for generations. Majid its flavor is beyond terrific.
terrific dried red pepper. Grown in the town Mahjoub shares, “From a very young age, my parents The Martins are not new to the land—the family began growing grapes
of Kahramanmaras, the pepper capital of taught me that this recipe comes from very far away. on the farm all the way back in the !8+0s. The olive oil is a more
Turkey, Marash pepper is magical. The more We, the children, learned a lot, but I believe that our modern piece of their work. A few years ago, as Patrick (the sixth
you use it, the more you'll feel like a magician parents learned even more, from theirs.” Other than generation) says, the family made the decision to raise the quality
in the kitchen. the spices, all of the ingredients in the harissa are of the oil and their care for the land further by taking what they call
The peppers for Marash, all grown right grown, organically and sustainably, on the Mahjoub “a deep dive into regenerative ag—reducing macronutrient applica-
around the town, are first sun-dried and family farm. Three di%erent peppers, all carefully tion to nearly zero, focused on balancing our micronutrients, and
seeded, with just a tiny touch of salt added. hand-seeded and sun-dried; tomatoes handled sim- developed a biologically intensive management regime.” Amazingly,
When you get “red pepper flakes” in most ilarly (the sun-drying makes a big di%erence); extra they are the only olive grove and mill like this in the world so far.
pizza joints in one of those shaker jars, you’ll virgin olive oil with a small bit of garlic, coriander, The Martins have absolutely hit their mark. The oil is totally ter-
notice lots of seeds. The seeds add weight for caraway seed, and sea salt. rific. It’s intensely green and peppery, but somehow in an especially
the seller but no flavor for the eater. Marash, The creamy mildness of the Creamery’s Cream Cheese balanced and surprisingly gentle way. A little nuttiness with lots of
by contrast, is completely seed-free. It has is an ideal foil for the spicy complexity of the harissa. low notes to go with the beautiful bitterness that comes with early
an amazingly full flavor with just a moderate I like to combine the two in a spread—making it is harvests like this. It has hints of green apple, and I’ve also heard it
amount of heat. about as simple as it gets. I like a ratio of about two described as having notes of persimmon and pistachio. Whatever
Use Marash red pepper on pasta, pizza, casse- parts cream cheese to one part harissa. Thin with a descriptors you decide to use, the oil is exceptional and special.
roles, or anyplace else you'd use red pepper small bit of extra virgin olive oil. Garnish if you like Great on salads, bruschetta, or the Tuscan way, on a just-o%-the-grill
flakes. Blend it with a little fresh lemon juice, with some chopped fresh herbs—dill, mint, basil … steak (rare, is how they would cook it there). I’m an advocate for it
and it forms a delicious smooth paste that any or all would be good. Eat and enjoy! on a simple spaghetti (Rustichella or Mancini) with nothing more
you can spread on sandwiches, fish, lamb, P.S. The Mahjoub’s hand-rolled, sun-dried, organic than oil, garlic if you like, lots of freshly ground black pepper, and
or chicken. couscous is equally amazing! some grated sheep milk Pecorino or, alternatively, a bunch of creamy
fresh ricotta.

isSue #307 . nov-dec 2024 7

Tabitha Mason is the co-managing partner of Zingerman’s what he wanted to do, jar green tomato chutney and other We support a variety of other causes that are important
Cornman Farms, located in Dexter, MI. I spoke with Tabitha British concoctions. But that wasn’t going to pay the bills, to us such as Ellie’s Place, Garrett's Space, Planned Par-
about her !0 years on the farm, and topics near and dear So this idea of an event venue on a beautiful piece of enthood, Food Gatherers, Merit’s FATE program, and the
to her heart, from open-book management to magical land where people could see where the food comes from Red Shoe Foundation for Ronald McDonald House. We
wedding moments. Whether or not you’ve ever had the and how much work goes into it was born. It was really host events like Cook for a Cause where groups can come
distinct pleasure of meeting this enthusiastic entrepre- appealing to him. And to me, there's no greater day to to the farm. Someone from the non-profit will come and
neur, prepare to be inspired by her sincere approach to give someone great service than on their wedding day. I talk to the group about the services the organization pro-
giving great service, treating guests like family, and cre- had left the Roadhouse and was working at Zingerman's vides, and then together we will make meals to donate to
ating memorable experiences for all. Service Network as the service steward. My job was to the people those organizations serve. It's really one of my
………………………………………………………………………………………… teach, measure, reward, and define service at an organi- favorite things that we do.
Sara: Where did your career begin before you came zational level. I also provided a lot of support for the farm This year was the !0th anniversary of the Dexter Commu-
to Ann Arbor? when they opened. Setting up new systems, hiring and nity Fund, which is part of the Ann Arbor Community Foun-
Tabitha: I grew up in Frankenmuth, MI, an hour and a half training sta%, and things like that. I believed so strongly dation. We reached out to them to o%er our support and
north of Ann Arbor. I spent !) years working at Bavar- as I saw it come together that it was going to be success- held a fundraiser for them, since we were both turning !0!
ian Inn, a !,&00-seat German restaurant. Most of my time ful. That’s when I was like, okay, I want you to take my
Sara: As you just shared, you celebrated Corman Farms’
there was spent in catering-front-of-house. When I was money. Let's go. I worked as an employee for a few years
!0th year in business this past summer! What is the
going to college, I moved into sales and then created our while I worked on my Zingerman’s Path to Partnership and
biggest change about the farm over those !0 years?
o%-premise catering division. became a co-managing partner in &0!+.
Tabitha: When we opened, same-sex marriage wasn't
Sara: How were you introduced to Zingerman's? Sara: What aspect of this business do you find the most legal. In &0!', every wedding that came here had a bride,
rewarding? so the room upstairs in the farmhouse was called the
Tabitha: I have been a lifelong Zingerman's fan. I would
drive down from Frankenmuth with family or friends and Tabitha: My favorite thing we at Zingerman’s do is bridal suite. In &0&', because not every wedding has a
go to the Deli. We’d buy all the things we needed to picnic open-book management. I think that there are a lot of bride and not every wedding has a groom, it's now known
at home and head back up north. I was always really im- places in the world that are really focusing on great ser- as the dressing room.
pressed with the phenomenal food, but what was equally vice, regardless of industry. I think it used to be a huge When people call and say, “Do you have this date avail-
impressive was how I would get consistently great service. di%erentiator for us. Now I feel like people expect great able? Here is my budget. P.S. It's a same-sex marriage. Is
service everywhere, but open-book management isn't that going to be a problem?” That breaks my heart. No
Sara: Tell us about your path to working at Zingerman's.
something that you see a lot in the world at large. one should have to ask that. I'm personally proud of the
Tabitha: When my daughter graduated from high school,
My husband was running a brewery when we lived in Fran- growth in how we changed language and imagery at the
my husband John and I had this window to evaluate
kenmuth. I had gone on a business trip to Salt Lake City farm so everyone feels included. People can see them-
what we might want to do di%erently. I had seen a post-
and John called me and said, “I've been driving around for selves on our website and social media, regardless of what
ing for the restaurant manager position at Zingerman's
hours trying to psych myself up to make this phone call.” they look like or who they're marrying.
Roadhouse. I had already met Alex, former chef and part-
Never a great way for a conversation to start. He said he
ner, and Ari, Zingerman’s co-founder, at a wine dinner Sara: What's di#erent about you !0 years later?
went to work and the doors were padlocked. This restau-
there. So I applied on a whim. Tabitha: The pandemic really forced me to evaluate life
rant that he was running, where we were at the owner's
I really wanted to see what Zingerman's was doing. I felt and what I wanted to do. After &0&0, we decided to close
house regularly, closed without any warning. We had just
like they must have been attracting a di%erent kind of the farm one day a week. That way there was at least one
bought a house and I was pregnant with our first son. We
applicant since everyone was giving such great service. I day we could all schedule appointments and just have a
didn't know what open-book management was then, but
wasn't feeling that where I was in my role managing peo- day o%. That was also when we started shifting to smaller
I knew immediately that we never wanted to experience
ple. When interviewing, I kind of went on a super secret events. Someone who's looking to have a &0-person wed-
that level of uncertainty again. And so when I discovered
mission to see what they were doing there. I discovered ding and is very focused on a di%erent type of experi-
that element of Zingerman's, I was like, this is what I've
a few things. I realized that they were being really up- ence—that is the kind of place I want to be. I want our
been looking for. I love working with employees and help-
front about job expectations, including giving great ser- culture to be safe and loving and supportive for employ-
ing them see what goes into running a business.
vice in all roles. In my interview process for restaurant ees and for guests.
When I worked at the Roadhouse, there was a server we
manager, a role in which I would be managing other man- Sara: Tell me about your vision for the future of
hired (she's still there) who came to huddle after serving
agers, we talked a lot about servant leadership and giving Cornman Farms.
for decades around Ann Arbor, and asked questions like:
service to sta%. I was asked to demonstrate examples of Tabitha: I love the idea of us continuing to get better and
“We spend how much on labor? What is the food cost?”
strong relationships I'd maintained with people in other better at the finer details. I think that the first !0 years
It changes how people see things and it helps them un-
departments, like back of the house—I liked that a lot. were figuring out how to get really good at the service, the
derstand their role. I think that the more information we
They o%ered me the job. To John's credit, he's an incred- event, the wedding, the food. And now what we're focusing
share, the better. It can be a challenge. People have to
ibly supportive husband who really just wants me to be on are all of these little tweaks that make a di%erence.
want to be involved, rather than simply do a job and go
happy. I took the job and we moved our family to Washt- Like finding out what would be meaningful to a guest, so
home. I really love open-book management.
enaw County in &0!!. that when they come on our property, they feel like they're
Sara: How does Cornman Farms give back to the Dexter
Sara: How did you make the move from the Roadhouse being doted on and their needs are anticipated.
and Washtenaw County communities?
to Cornman Farms? Sara: What’s the biggest change from the vision you
Tabitha: Our very first event at the farm was a fundraiser
Tabitha: The Roadhouse is where I met Kieron [Editor’s wrote before opening?
for Mott Children's Hospital. So from the very first thing
note: Kieron Hales is Tabitha’s co-manager partner and the Tabitha: The vision is what success looks like without
we did as a new business, we knew that being a part of
chef at the farm]. I was running the front of the house when a lot of the “how” you’re going to get there. We wrote
the community was important to us. I had little kids at the
he was running the back of the house. We both felt fiercely in our vision we were going to hold these large, (00 to
time and Kieron was starting a family, so it was an easy
protective of our teams and what we were doing. So that '00-person events. As the business evolved over !0 years,
cause for us to get behind, supporting this great resource
meant that we would butt heads over what was the right we found that what we really wanted to do, and what peo-
we have right in our own backyard. We have a decade-long
thing to do or what was the right decision for the restau- ple were asking for, were smaller events. After feedback
relationship with Mott to this day, particularly the pedi-
rant. I think that it helped us build an incredible working from guests on their experience, reflecting on what we
atric cardiology doctors. They were already friends of
relationship. I think that we know each other, truly. We enjoy, and what made for a better work experience for
Zingerman's and became really great friends of the farm,
drive each other crazy, but we also have a lot of respect our sta%, we scaled back. We sold our big outdoor tent.
too. We've hosted numerous events for them from small
for each other. Now we're focused exclusively on o%ering intimate wed-
dinners to annual fundraisers like Caden’s Full Throttle,
Kieron wrote this vision for a business at Cornman Farms. dings, which we define as +5 or fewer guests. But we still
a car show and auction.
He really saw it as a canning and jarring business. That's do weddings six days a week.

8 isSue #307 . nov-dec 2024

Sara: That is always surprising to me, I'm sure others wedding party. And also, the food is really important, it Sara: How far out into the future are you booked?
might be surprised by it too. Tell us more about wed- used to be what's pretty and now people care more about Tabitha: We always book just the current year plus one
dings on weekdays. what it is going to taste like. more. Because the property and what makes the farm
Tabitha: Yeah, I think Thursday is probably our most pop- Sara: Thinking back on all the weddings you’ve beautiful changes year to year, we have to consider that
ular day of the week to have a wedding! The majority of planned, I know each one is unique, but what is that in planning. What will the trees look like, what's growing
our couples don't live here in Washtenaw County. They're one magical moment that they all have in common? and where, where have we moved crops around to take
already traveling, or their friends and family are already care of the soil. So right now we are booking for &0&5.
Tabitha: I am a boy mom so it always gets me when a
traveling, and midweek weddings are a lower-cost of- groom dances with someone special to him at the recep- Sara: What is currently being grown on the farm
fering. It's a really great value if you have the flexibility. tion. I can't help but imagine my own boys !5 or &0 years grounds?
We had a wedding earlier this year for !' people. The in the future. That gets me every time. Tabitha: Lots of herbs. We use them not only in our cook-
grooms both live in California, but one of their moms lives
I also really love the moment when the couple comes in ing, but in cocktails, too. A basil gin gimlet or a rosemary
here in Michigan and wasn't up to traveling. So they did right after they've gotten married, the wedding party still or lavender French +5 are some favorites of mine. Sum-
a destination wedding—destination Dexter! They flew in behind them. They come into the farmhouse or the barn mer savory is a really fun herb that not a lot of people
on Saturday, picnicked with us on Sunday, and then came after the ceremony. I get to see this sort of private mo- know. We just used it to garnish a crudités board and a
back on Monday for the ceremony and reception. They ment that no one else gets to experience. They're look- guest asked “What is on this board? It's so pretty and it
all arrived together, got ready together, had a beautiful ing at each other and they're just so happy. I think that's smells so good!”
ceremony, a really special meal, and then they all went up a really special moment. We always have rhubarb. Kieron smuggled some in from
to northern Michigan for what they called a “familymoon.”
Sara: What's the farthest a couple has traveled to be his mum's garden. We just finished the elderflower season
We have found that the day of the week doesn't matter,
married in Dexter? so we made quarts and quarts of elderflower liqueur that
it’s the marriage that matters, which I love to see. It's less
we’ll use to make drinks and things in the future. Always
about the party and more about the life they're starting. Tabitha: We regularly have couples from California and
tomatoes. Lots of nice greens. All are exclusively used
You can do that on any day of the week. Texas. We've hit nearly every state, except for Hawaii and
here in our farmhouse kitchen.
Alaska. That's where I was born so I would be very excited
Sara: When you think of Cornman Farms, what are you Another thing that's being grown here that I think is re-
to talk to someone from Alaska. The farthest a couple has
most proud of to be a part of? ally special is our flowers. We have a plot of land that's
ever had us travel is to Gunturstor%, Austria! We catered
Tabitha: I find it incredibly humbling that people choose a wedding there for a couple who lives in Chicago. That dedicated to flowers tended by Alex Finch of Finch
us to host their wedding because it makes us part of their Florals. She's a florist who lives here in Dexter. We met a
was really fun and definitely the most mileage in Corn-
story forever. I have made lifelong friends and am even a few years ago and she was really interested in growing her
man Farms history.
godmother to a baby whose moms got married here. The own flowers, so we gave her this plot of land to use at no
Sara: Does your relationship with a client stop after
relationships we build here are deep and special. charge. It gave her the opportunity to literally grow her
the wedding is over?
Sara: What does it take to be a great wedding planner? business and gives us these really beautiful flowers on the
Tabitha: Not at all. Sometimes it can, but for couples who property. Wedding couples love having their photos taken
Tabitha: There are so many places where you can get want to build a connection that's something that we re- in the flower rows. She's got some really beautiful arches
married, and am honored when someone chooses the ally excel at. That's part of the reason why we do our food covered with hops right now and she's actually created a
farm. Wedding planning is a little bit of therapy, exper- pop-ups, like, fish and chips, Thanksgiving to-go, and pic- cross-bred Cornman Farms Dahlia. The Cornman Dahlia is
tise, art, and science mixed together. Every couple's needs nics. Those events give families a chance to come back to a really pretty pink, but it has a lot of texture and it isn't a
are di%erent. Couples often come to us with unexpressed the farm. This past summer at our Sunday picnics we had solid pink. I think it's pinky-purple. We're hoping that next
expectations or expectations they don't realize that they a mix of couples who've gotten married here (some with summer they’ll be o,cially certified and we will be able to
have. I love helping them figure out what's important to their kids!), couples who were thinking about getting mar- sell a Cornman Farms Dahlia. Everything that's grown here
them and how we can make it happen. ried here, and some who had just booked. I love that I can is used for our weddings. You can't get more local than
Sara: What trends are you seeing in weddings for 2024 stay in touch with people this way all these years later. having your bouquet come from literally right outside.
and 2025? Sara: This is probably hard to answer, but what is the Sara: For those who are not planning a wedding, how
Tabitha: The trends around wedding timing and decor are most memorable event that's ever taken place on the can they experience all the farm has to o#er?
all gone—anything goes. Today, it’s all about the couples, farm?
Tabitha: Definitely sign up for our e-news so you stay
and creating a personalized and aligned experience. Years Tabitha: I can't say favorite wedding because my gosh, up-to-date on our food events. We try to do something
ago, we used to have this belief, that people were choos- we've had so many. One that really stands out that we every month at di%erent price points that appeals to a
ing small weddings because they had a smaller budget. still talk about is our first Indian wedding. When we first variety of people. Cocktail classes, special guest chef or
What we're seeing now is that people are having smaller opened, we had a lot of very lovely weddings that all cookbook author dinners, holiday dinners to-go, and
weddings because they want to have a very specific ex- looked very similar. But the first Indian wedding was a more.
perience. You can have !' people and spend a thousand really fun experience because we got to learn a lot about …………………………………………………………………………………………
dollars a person and give them this really remarkable a completely di%erent culture. The family was very excited I don’t know about you, but I can’t help but root for
experience that they'll talk about forever. that we wanted to learn and understand and be more than Tabitha, her family, her business, and what the future
People care more than ever about the values of who just a space. They invited us to dress in traditional Indian holds for them. Her heartfelt hard work makes every-
they’re working with. We communicate how we support clothing, so we did. There was music, fire, horses, singing, thing brighter for every person she serves. Her commit-
the LGBTQ+ community because even cis-gendered people chanting, and dancing. That was a DAY! We had no idea ment to bettering our community of businesses and the
want to know that where they're spending their money what we were in for. It was completely di%erent from a tra- communities we do business in is a shining example of
and the vendors they're choosing are in line with them as ditional Western wedding. That couple just came to visit doing business di%erently.
people. We get asked questions that we were never asked over the summer for one of our pop-ups and they brought
before, such as, “How do you train sta% on inclusivity?” their two kids to show them where they got married.
We’re also seeing no more rules about titles and roles in It was a really wild and fun special day. I think that was
the wedding. You can have anyone stand up in your wed- one of the first weddings where we felt like family on the
ding party regardless of gender, you can have an uneven wedding day. That's something that we hear a lot from our Sara Hudson
number of people in the wedding party, you can have no Former Zingerman’s Creative Services Director
couples, you felt like an extension of our family.

Visit zingermanscornmanfarms.com Blog: modern wedding planning advice & farm-to-table recipes
Shop: bake-at-home pot pies, farm fresh soups, pop-up events & more!
Follow @cornmanfarms Browse: wedding and corporate event options

isSue #307 . nov-dec 2024 9

 At Zingermanʼs Food Tours, we take culinary adventurers to the source of fantastic food and folks, from Denmark to Ireland
to Italy and beyond. Our 2025 itineraries boast such once-in-a-lifetime experiences as a culinary cycling tour through
Copenhagen, harvesting seaweed in Ireland, tasting Champagne with the storied makers in France, and much more.
Give your future self some amazing memories and start planning your Zingermanʼs Food Tour today. All our tours include
hotel accommodations, most meals, cooking and tasting experiences, and transportation between tour stops.

2025 Zingerman’s Food Tours

Oaxaca, Mexico Feb 3–10 SOLD OUT Piedmont, Italy May 14–21 Ireland Sep 16–24
Tuscany, Italy Mar 31–Apr 6 SOLD OUT Northern Ireland May 15–23 Basque, Spain Oct 4–12
Lyon & Jura, Italy Apr 9–16 South Korea May 20–29 SOLD OUT Tuscany, Italy Oct 6–12
Sicily, Italy Apr 28–May 3 South Korea Jun 3–12 — SOLD OUT Paris & Champagne, France Oct 17–24
Hungary May 5–12 Denmark Aug 20–27 Sicily, Italy Oct 19-26

Browse the tasty itineraries

and book your spots before
theyʼre sold out at
zingermansfoodtours.com.

Serving Up a Celebration!
A ColLection of Catering & Event Options from Across the ZCoB
Zingerman’s Bakehouse Zingerman’s Creamery Miss Kim Zingerman’s Cornman Farms
Our in-house cake studio creates Cheese platters customized for your event with Turn your holiday party into something really Host your holiday event in this historic,
incredible works of delicious, your choice of dried fruits, nuts, cured meats, special with smashed potatoes, tteokbokki with 19th-century setting. Roaring fireplaces,
edible art for your holiday pickled veggies, sauces, and your choice of housemade kimchi, Korean fried chicken, and snow-covered grounds, cozy white lights
gathering that can be sized to baguette slices or crackers. Sized for small, more. ames Beard semifinalist, Chef i ye imʼs everywhere, and 27 acres of pastoral
serve a handful to a hundred. intimate gatherings or enough to feed a crowd. food is rooted in Korean tradition and adapted to beauty. Feel like youʼre a world away even
Call us at 734-761-7255 to set up Reserve yours at zingermanscreamery.com or showcase ichiganʼs bountiful produce. though youʼve barely left Ann Arbor .
a consultation. call us at 734-929-0500. Reach out to misskim@zingermans.com. Reach out to us at 734-619-8100 or
cornmanevents@zingermans.com.

Zingerman’s Catering & Events Zingerman’s Greyline Zingerman’s Roadhouse Catering

e bring the Deliʼs best to your celebration A great place to host your staff party or family Host a private party in the restaurant or
Everything from deli platters to delicious celebration in downtown Ann Arbor. This historic let us bring the party to you. Everything
onsite dinner service to a spread of snacks. renovated Greyhound bus station adjoins a you need can be provided—including all
Whether you prefer pickup, delivery, or a hotel for easy overnight accommodations for the Roadhouse classics like fried chicken,
full-service event, we can help. guests. From single-serving appetizers to plated barbecue, pimento cheese, and other
Start planning at zingermanscatering.com. entrees, weʼre long-time experts on how we can really great American food so you can
best serve you. focus on the celebration.
Learn more at zingermansgreyline.com. Learn more at zingermansroadhouse.com.

• •

10 isSue #307 . nov-dec 2024

 Best Sandwich Shop Winner Best Special-Occasion Venue Finalist
Best Fast-Casual Restaurant Finalist Best Wedding Venue Finalist
Best Takeout Finalist
Best Butcher Shop/Deli Finalist
Best Gluten-Free Products Finalist
Best Restaurant (Washtenaw County) Finalist

Best Restaurant (Washtenaw County) Winner

Best Restaurant for Brunch Finalist
Best Happy Hour Finalist Best Bakery (Bread) Finalist

Best Café Winner Best Candy Store Finalist

Best Coffee Brand Finalist Best Chocolate/Chocolatier Finalist

Thank you for your support!

e!
We create one-of-a-kind cakes for all your import-

at
ant life events, including showers, weddings,

le b r
special birthdays, graduations, anniversaries,

L e t’s C e e and out,

and more. We pride ourselves on creating cakes
that taste as good as they look, because every-
thing, even our fondant, is made from scratch
in s id
using the best ingredients we can find.
des igne d ngs
es, Ddi
custo m cak hd a ys t o w e A few of our favorite
t
fo r bir flavor pairings:

Coconut cake made with intense Italian coconut paste

and lemon passionfruit Swiss buttercream

Buttermilk chocolate cake, dulce de leche, Light chiffon cake with vanilla bean
and salted caramel Swiss buttercream pastry cream and fresh berries

sst Itʼs never too early to book your custom-designed cake Ordering at least a month ahead is ideal wedding cakes at least months in advance.
Schedule a cake consultation at: zingermansbakehouse.com/cake-studio

isSue #307 . nov-dec 2024 11

 Gifts That’L l Get ’Em Talking
Share the Zingerman’s experience with friends and famiLY flung far afield
Zingermanʼs ail Order has made it our business to share your love, sympathies, birthday greetings, thank
yous, and holiday wishes for more than 0 years. eʼve recruited hundreds of holiday elves to make all your
sugar plum dreams come true this year with gifts like these

christmaS Spiced PECans iN christmaS hanukKAH sweEtS

sardineS a holidAy tIn extravAganzA Gift box gift boxes

Holiday cheEse Fancy sChmANcY hunUkKaH ediblE Box choCOlate rAisIn

course gift box CoOkies of chOColates baBkA

marRon GlAce Robert LamBERT StoLlen frOm sour cReam

chestnuT paNEtTone Fruit Cakes zingermaN’s bAkEhouSe cofFeE Cake

3723 Plaza Dr. #5

3723 Plaza Dr. Ann Arbor, MI 48108 3711 Plaza Dr. Ann Arbor, MI 48108 422 Detroit St. Ann Arbor, MI 48103 (inside Coffee Co.) Ann Arbor, MI 48108 3723 Plaza Dr. #5 Ann Arbor, MI 48108
734.761.7255 | bakewithzing.com 734.761.2095 | zingermansbakehouse.com 734.663.3400 | zingermanscatering.com 734.619.6666 | zingermanscandy.com 734.929.6060 | zingermanscoffee.com

8540 Island Lake Rd. Dexter, MI 48130 3723 Plaza Dr. #2 Ann Arbor, MI 48108 422 Detroit St. Ann Arbor, MI 48103 620 Phoenix Dr. Ann Arbor, MI 48108 100 N Ashley St. Ann Arbor, MI 48103
734-619-8100 | cornmanfarms.com 734.929.0500 | zingermanscreamery.com 734.663.3354 | zingermansdeli.com 888.316.2736 | zingermansfoodtours.com 734.230.2300 | zingermansgreyline.com

610 Phoenix Dr. Ann Arbor, MI 48108 415 N. Fifth Ave. Ann Arbor, MI 48104 418 Detroit St. Ann Arbor, MI 48104 2501 Jackson Rd. Ann Arbor, MI 48103 3728 Plaza Dr. Ann Arbor, MI 48108
888.636.8162 | zingermans.com 734.275.0099 | misskimannarbor.com 734.663.5282 | zingermansdeli.com 734.663.3663 | zingermansroadhouse.com 734.930.1919 | zingtrain.com