AMSLA590 Manual Orca 2021-09-28
AMSLA590 Manual Orca 2021-09-28
AMSLA590 Manual Orca 2021-09-28
COMBINED DEPTH/TENSION
HEAVY DUTY SLICKLINE MEASUREMENT DEVICE
NOTE – The safe ambient temperature operating range for this equipment is -20 to 40C
or -4 to 104F.
___________________________________________________
Training - Operators shall be trained in the proper and safe use of the device.
Do not exceed the tension limit specified for this device in this manual.
Electric Shock – Depending on the equipment being used, both AC and DC current
may be present. Frequently in wellsite operations conductive fluids and chemicals are
used. Use extra caution when working with BenchMark equipment and follow
manufacturer warnings to avoid electric shock.
The safe ambient temperature operating range for this equipment is -20 to 40C or -4 to
104F.
Installation Instructions - Install measuring device onto the spooling mechanism per
the unit manufacturer instructions. Take care to avoid pinching or cutting of electrical
cables when the measuring device moves during the spooling operation.
Take care to thread the wire through the device properly to prevent the wire from
rubbing the frame during operation. The Table of Contents of this manual will list where
the threading procedure is located.
Use every precaution to keep a safe distance from dangerous equipment when it is in
operation. Never approach the measuring device while the cable drum is turning.
Prior to the Call, please gather this information. It will be Needed by the
Support Technician to help diagnose the problem.
Contact Information
Website www.BenchMarkWireline.com
Email mail@benchmarkwireline.com
Phone +1 281-346-4300 ask for Tech Support
Fax +1 281-246-4301
ONLY stock the Encoder and Load Pin/Axle used in your current Measuring
Head.
Since the wireline wraps around the depth wheel, the circumference of the depth wheel
will change with a change in wire size. The wheel size setting needs to be set to match
the wireline size in order to accurately measure depth.
This equipment is to be installed only by personnel who are suitably trained and
qualified to local/national codes.
2. Connect the cables for to the encoder, backup and load pin to the measuring head.
1. Power up the panel connected to the measuring head and verify it is working
properly.
2. Set depth to zero “0” to enable line size selection and tension calibration.
4. Install the line in measuring head and set the line size parameter on the panel.
Note – see Proper Wire Threading Path on next page.
9. Press T-Zero to set tension to zero. Press T-CAL and verify that panel tension reads
correctly (depending on type of measuring head selected).
10. Pull tool to depth 0 position. Press D-Zero to reset the panel depth to 0.
Power up the panel connected to the measuring head and verify it is working properly.
Install the line in measuring head and set the line size parameter on the panel.
Press T-CAL and verify that panel tension reads 4,000 or 5,000 lbs (depending on type
of measuring head selected)
The "Orca” Slickline Measuring Device is a heavy duty three wheeled device which accurately
measures both wireline depth, line speed and tension. It minimizes wire abrasion and fatigue by
using a non reverse bend configuration.
The device is designed to be mounted in front of the wireline drum on a spooling mechanism.
Linear bearings in the mount allow it to slide back and forth in front of the drum so the wire can
be spooled evenly. The bracket on the top of the measuring head is used to mount it to the
wireline unit. Spooling rollers and pressure wheels are provided to keep the wire in the wheels
at low or no tension.
The wireline can be removed from the measuring head without cutting off the cable head. The
guide rollers are slotted so they can be repositioned out of the way to remove the wireline.
Tension is measured from a load pin which also serves as the axle for the tension wheel. The
Orca also has a hydraulic load cell which is an independent tension measuring device. Since
the tension wheel is opposite the measuring and idler wheel, the wire completely wraps around
both wheel sets. This creates a relatively high signal at the load pin which provides a very
accurate tension measurement.
With the BenchMark Winchman's Panel, depth can be accurately measured on different sized
lines without changing wheels. This is done electronically by the panel using the depth
information provided by an encoder. Changes in wire size are accounted for by the panel
software. Wire stretch can also be automatically calculated by the panel.
Depth measurement is made by wrapping the wire around the measuring wheel which has a
precision machined groove. The wheel groove has a diameter of 20.06 inches. The wheel is
hardened to greater than Rockwell 58 by using a special heat treat process. This minimizes
wheel wear to maximize wheel life.
This measuring head is capable of providing two completely independent depth measurements,
an optical encoder and a magnetic pickup.
A backup depth system is available to provide another independent depth measurement. Depth
is measured by a frictionless magnetic pickup mounted in the measuring head. The pickup
consists of magnets imbedded in the measure wheel coupling and two hall affect devices
mounted next to the shaft. This provides a quadarature type measurement. A small display
panel is mounted inside a wireline unit. The panel is designed to be connected to an external
AC or DC supply or operate off internal batteries for up to 15 hours between charges. In the
event of an external power interruption, the unit automatically switches to battery power. The
system is designed to operate without intervention from the user. When external power fails,
the depth display is maintained by the batteries. A switch on the front of the panel allows
different sizes of wire to be measured accurately without changing the measuring wheels.
The wheel nearest the well rotates on an axle pin that is instrumented with strain gauges.
These strain gauges produce an electrical signal proportional to the magnitude of line tension.
The wire always makes a complete 180 degree wrap around the tension wheel so rigup angle
does not affect the tension measurement.
The tension wheel is mounted on a self aligning bearing which allows the wheel to properly align
itself. This reduces any side forces that may be present which increases the tension
measurement accuracy.
2. DIFFERENTIAL VOLTAGE
Interface - Proprietary circuit board which amplifies the load pin signals and provides a
1.5v differential output.
Interface - Proprietary circuit board which amplifies the load pin signals and provides a
4-20ma current loop output.
4 ma = 0 lbs. (0 kg)
12 ma = 5,000 lbs. (2,268) - shunt CAL
20ma = 15,000 lbs. (6,803kg)
COMMON SPECIFICATIONS
Temperature Stability
<= .015% full scale / deg F on zero
<= .02% full scale / deg F on output
A hydraulic load cell is included which measures wireline tension independently of the
electronic load pin. It is mounted in the frame and measures the tension differential
between the top measure wheel and the bottom tension wheel. A second depth idler
wheel is provided to eliminate cable rub against a single wheel with the movement of
the hydraulic load cell.
Cable sizes .092 to .160 slickline & 3/16” to 5/16” e-line/braided line
Tension load axle & amplifier can be configured to different outputs
2 fully independent depth measurements - 1. optical encoder 2. magnetic
pickup
Backup depth system – reduces drag on measuring wheel by eliminating
mechanical drive cable
Encoder & tension amplifier certified for Zone II/C1D2 area use
Anodized aluminum frame – all steel parts are plated or SST
Line removal from the side without cutting off Cable Head
Minimizes wire abrasion & fatigue by using non-reverse bend configuration
Separate measuring and idler wheels completely eliminates wire rub
Large diameter wheel radius minimizes wire fatigue
Spooling rollers and pressure wheels keep wire in wheel at low/no tension
Sprung pressure wheel keeps wire turning with wheel even with sudden
direction change or jarring action
Top mount configuration on a 40mm overhead spooling bar
Hydraulic Load Cell provides second independent tension measurement
This is what an Orca measuring head should look like with the wire properly threaded.
Final thread path is the same whether threaded with or without cable head attached.
The Orca measuring head can be threaded either with or without the cable head
attached. These images show a wire without a cable head but the same procedure can
be used for a wire with the cable head attached by threading from the side and top
around the rollers.
Loosen the screws on both sets of guide rollers only if the cable head is attached.
Swing the guide roller plate away leaving top/bottom access to the space between the
guide rollers.
Loosen the keeper roller, move it to the top of its slot and retighten the screw.
Loosen the upper pressure roller, move it to the end of its slot and retighten the screw.
Loosen the lower pressure roller, move it to the end of its slot and retighten the screw.
Thread the wire between the 1st set of guide rollers then over the top of the idler wheel.
The idler wheel is the one on the encoder side of the measuring head and lines up
directly with the gap between the guide rollers.
The wire then goes over the top of the tension wheel.
It then goes around the back of the wheel under the upper pressure roller.
It continues around the bottom of the wheel under the lower pressure roller.
The wire now goes from the underside of the tension wheel to the underside of the
measuring wheel, above the lower keeper roller. The measuring wheel is the one
closed to you.
Use a ¾” open end wrench to spring the pressure roller arm away from the measuring
wheel and thread the wire between the pressure roller and the measuring wheel groove.
Note – make sure that the wire is in the groove of the measuring wheel, (the one closest
to you), and not the groove of the idler wheel.
Example – this is how the wire should look when properly threaded.
Run the wire out through the gap between the other guide rollers.
Now reposition the two keeper rollers and the two pressure rollers back in their slots
and tighten the screws.
Note – the two pressure rollers need to be in the slot of the tension wheel. Avoid
adjusting them with too heavy a contact with the tension wheel. If they are too close
they can bind and give false reading.
This is what the Orca should look like then properly threaded.
This equipment is to be installed only by personnel who are suitably trained and
qualified to local/national codes.
2. Connect the cables from the panel to the encoder, backup and load pin on the
measuring head.
Make sure you use the correct cable for each connection as described in this manual.
Between jobs, check the measuring and guide wheels for looseness, play, out-of-
roundness, worn or rough sounding bearings, or other mechanical conditions that could
affect measurement accuracy.
Visually inspect the interiors of the electrical connectors for the encoders and electronic
load axle for dirt and evidence of insulation breakdown. Clean or replace as necessary.
Install dust caps on the connectors if the cables are removed.
Manually rotate each wheel by hand to verify its condition. Inspect the depth measuring
wheel for signs of abnormal wear diameter changes, or shaft play that can affect
measurement accuracy. The wheel should be replaced if it is grooved more than .005".
Inspect the tension wheels for signs of abnormal wear, diameter changes, or shaft and
bearing play that could affect measurement accuracy. It should also be replaced if it is
grooved more than .005".
Lubrication – use waterproof marine grease and a straight necked grease gun. Use
the grease nozzle that comes with the measuring head (in the small plastic bag zip-tied
to the frame).
Press the nozzle into the fitting and apply 3 squirts. Repeat same lubrication schedule
each month.
DO NOT pressure wash the machine as it will force the grease out of the bearings and
they will fail.
*NOTE – maintenance on the Orca may be performed with the device clamped to a
sturdy workbench or laid horizontally on blocks.
The 1st step is to remove the spiral lock from the load pin shaft.
If the lock has not been damaged it can be used again on reassembly.
With the load pin removed gently let the tension wheel rest in the frame.
Position the tension wheel so that the load pin can be placed through the wheel hub.
Note that the load pin has a flat notch on one side.
The flat side of the load pin will flange up to the guide plate on the frame.
Insert the load pin and rotate it so that the flat side of the pin butts up to the guide plate.
The bearing in the tension wheel has a slot for an anti-rotation screw.
*Note - depending on position of the wheel, if during this procedure the tension wheel
stays in place, there is no need to remove the anti-rotation screw.
If the wheel moves too much, the bearing may slide off the anti-rotation screw. In that
case you must remove the anti-rotation screw for proper reinstallation.
Spin the wheel until the anti-rotation slot on the bearing can be seen through the anti-
rotation screw hole.
For this maintenance, it is assumed that both the wheel and the bearing have already
been removed. The bearing is held in the wheel hub by 2 snap rings.
The anti-rotation bushing will be pressed into the bearing. Place the new bearing on the
press.
On the first stroke, the bushing may not go all the way into the bearing. Add a spacer
on the bottom of the bearing as the bushing will protrude below the bottom of the
bearing.
The bushing is properly installed when approximately equal amounts stick out both
above and below the bearing assembly.
Take the Tension Wheel. 2 snap rings will hold the bearing assembly in place. The
front of the wheel is the side with the grease fitting.
Then turn the wheel over. You should be able to simply insert the bearing assembly
into the center hub.
Lubrication – use waterproof marine grease and a straight necked grease gun. Use
the grease nozzle that comes with the measuring head (in the small plastic bag zip-tied
to the frame).
Press the nozzle into the fitting and apply 3 squirts. Repeat same lubrication schedule
each month.
DO NOT pressure wash the machine as it will force the grease out of the bearings and
they will fail.
*NOTE – maintenance on the Dolphin may be performed with the device clamped to a
heavy work bench or laid horizontally on blocks. Replacing the tension wheel is a
simple procedure that can be performed with the head in a variety of positions.
For this maintenance, we assume that the load pin has been removed. 3.2.1
Loosen and completely move the pressure roller to the end of its slot and retighten.
Unscrew and completely remove the other pressure rollers.
Reposition the wheel back in the frame and follow the load pin installation instructions in
3.2.1.
Then replace and adjust the pressure rollers so that the rollers fit inside the groove of
the tension wheel.
Note – the photos used in the Load Cell Replacement information are of the Thresher
measuring head. The Thresher and the Orca are functionally the same except for the
way that they mount to the wireline unit.
The Orca measuring head has a pivot joint that connects the measuring wheel
assembly to the tension wheel assembly. The hydraulic load cell is placed between
those two assemblies. Because of the circular wire path, as tension is added to the
wire, it will pull the tension wheel assembly towards the measuring wheel thus exerting
pressure on the load cell.
The load cell is screwed to the measuring wheel side of the frame and it rests against a
flat mounting plate on the tension wheel side.
The Hydraulic Load Cell is an additional tension measuring device independent of the
load pin.
To replace the load cell, two screws which run through the mounting plate up into the
bottom of the load cell and a deeply recessed screw need to be removed.
First remove the recessed screw. For this task a ¼ inch drive with an 8 to 10 inch
extension will work the best and a flexible connection on the extension is also helpful.
The screw is accessed by putting the extension in the position shown “between the
frame and the idler wheel” behind the encoder as shown in the picture.
Then attach a ratchet to the extension, loosen and remove the screw and remove the
extension and socket.
Now remove the other two screws that go from the mounting plate into the load cell. A
flex spring extension can be very helpful for this procedure.
As soon as the last screw is removed the load cell will usually drop from the mounting
plate.
Take the new load cell with the hydraulic hose attached and reposition it the same as
the one that was removed. Replace the three screws but do not fully tighten them.
Note that the mounting plate has a curved edge matching the radius of the load cell.
Position the load cell so that the edge of the cell aligns with the edge of the mounting
plate. Tighten the three screws to hold the load cell in place.
If necessary, use a soft hammer to nudge the cell into the proper position.
Carefully pull the encoder straight out avoiding contact between the couplings and the
adapter.
*Note - If you drop the plastic coupling inside the adapter, you may have to remove the
adapter to retrieve it.
Note the size of the gap between the coupling and the encoder body.
With the small Allen wrench, loosen the 2 set screws that hold the coupling on the shaft
of the encoder.
Replace the existing coupling stack on the shaft of the new encoder.
Note that the shaft has a flat side. Place the coupling on the shaft so that the tangs on
the coupling and one set screw are aligned to the flat side of the shaft.
When tightening, leave the same gap on the shaft between the coupling and the
encoder. Snug up but DO NOT fully tighten the set screw on the flat side of the shaft.
Use DC111 or equivalent and apply a thin layer to the plastic coupling.
Press the plastic on top of the coupling stack. The DC111 will temporarily hold it in
place.
The top of the encoder has the OEM labels. Rotate the coupling stack so that the slot
on the top of the plastic coupling is oriented vertically.
Look though the hole in the adapter body and you will see the coupling half.
Rotate the measuring wheel so that the tang on the coupling half is vertical.
Carefully replace the encoder watching to not jar the coupling stack.
Hold it against the adapter body.
Using a flashlight look in the hole to verify that the plastic coupling has engaged the
tang on the measuring wheel.
Temporarily replace the 2 screws to hold the encoder and coupling in place.
Place the Allen wrench in a set screw hole and exerting force, lever the encoder stack
away from you towards the measuring wheel, snug up the set screw.
Lubricate the O ring using the DC111 and carefully replace the O ring in the adapter
body.
Holding the encoder firmly in place, Rotate the measuring wheel and if properly
engaged, as you look down through the plug hole, you should see the white dots on the
coupling stack move as the coupling spins.
The Dolphin measuring head has a bearing in the hub of the shaft that supports both
the Measuring Wheel and the Idler Wheel. There is also a bearing in the Idler Wheel
itself. This will show how to replace the Idler Wheel Bearing.
NOTE – For information on removing the measuring and idler wheels see 3.2.7 & 3.2.8
When the wheels have been removed from the frame, the top wheel is the measuring
wheel. Notice that it has a solid hub and no bearings.
We will now replace the bearing in the center of the idler wheel.
The adapter will be pushed out from the back and it should come out very easily by
either pressing directly on it or by tapping it with a rubber hammer.
There are retainers on each side of the bearing that need to be removed.
The new bearing must be reinstalled with care. You cannot press on the inner race of
the bearing as it will likely bend and not work properly. You must press on the thin outer
race only.
Benchmark Wireline has developed this precision reinstallation tool that presses only on
the outer race of the bearing and seats it to the proper depth.
There are 2 bearings in the measuring wheel. 1 is on the shaft and the other is inside
this hub. Both will need to be replaced.
Remove the retainer clip that holds the bearing in place in the hub.
It can normally be removed and replaced with no special equipment.
Install the new bearing and the retainer clip.
You now need to press the shaft and the bearing out of the hub.
You will usually need a press to both remove and reinstall the bearing and shaft.
Set up your press to allow pressing the shaft and bearing out through the bottom of the
hub.
Get a punch of smaller diameter than the shaft and press out the shaft.
Be sure to catch the shaft – clean off any lubricant on the bearing and shaft.
Protect the small threaded end of the shaft by putting a nut over it to press on.
Press the shaft out of the bearing.
Place the new bearing on the shaft and snug as much as possible manually.
Place the shaft and bearing in the hub so that you can see the small end of the shaft
protruding out of the hub…this will indicate that the shaft is properly aligned in the hub.
You will now press the bearing with the shaft in it, into the hub.
NOTE – during the process of changing the wheels in this tutorial, the encoder will be
removed and then reinstalled. It is assumed that the same encoder will be reinstalled
so the process for changing the coupling stack is not shown. If you will be installing a
NEW ENCODER during this procedure, refer to 3.2.5 for details on changing the
coupling stack.
The Orca weighs approximately 350 pounds. Take extreme care in moving this device.
During this process it will be moved several times.
To begin with make sure the measuring head is lying flat on a sturdy worktable with the
encoder side up. 2x4 wooden blocks as shown in the video will hold it steady up off the
table quite well.
Pull the encoder straight up and try avoiding impacting the encoder coupling with the
adapter body.
Now remove the 4 screws that hold the encoder adapter in place.
You may need to tap the corner of the adapter with a hammer to loosen.
The rubber O-ring may be reused if not damaged.
Line up the measuring and the idler wheels and insert a wooden dowel the thickness of
a broom handle through the aligned holes and push the dowel up against the measuring
head frame.
After using a 1 ¼ inch socket on the breaker bar to remove the nut that holds the shaft
in place, remove all of the 16 screws in the hub except 2 on opposite sides which will
hold the hub in place.
Turn the orca head over with the encoder side down.
Now loosen the keeper roller and move it to the end of its slot.
We’ll now remove the pressure roller. Using a 3/8” Allen wrench and an 11/16” open
end wrench remove the nut, screw, washer, spacer and wheel.
Align the wheels and place the wooden dowel through the holes again and push it up
against the frame.
On the underside of the wheel using a 3/16 inch Allen in a socket, remove the 2 screws
holding the lower hub in place.
On the top side, slide cardboard between the wheels in preparation for removal.
The hub and shaft should now be easily pulled out. You may have to push up on the
shaft from the bottom.
Now remove the wheels by sliding them out of the side of the frame. Both must be
removed at the same time. Note that the wheel with the raised hub is on top.
After the wheels are removed and any shaft, hub, bearing or wheel repairs have been
done, stack the wheels in the same order as when removed. Make sure that the hubs
are aligned and slide them back into the frame.
When properly installed they wheels will drop down into the frame.
Center the wheels in the frame hole.
Reinstall the hub and shaft in the center of the wheels. Locate the key on the shaft and
rotate the shaft so the key slides down into the keyway on the wheel hub. A flashlight
will help you see the relative positioning of the key and keyway.
A flat headed screwdriver will allow the shaft to be rotated precisely and the shaft and
hub to slide down into place. You may have to hold the wheel steady while turning the
screwdriver.
Rotate the hub so that the grease fitting is at the 2 o’clock position. This will help to
keep the fitting clean and dry.
Replace the 8 screws with lock washers on the hub. Do not fully tighten.
On the underside, reposition the hub over the shaft, slide the spacer on the shaft and
hand tighten the nut. The nut has fine threads so many turns will be required. Hand
tighten it until you get to the nylon threads on the nut.
Place the dowel in the holes in the wheels. Use the 1 ¼ socket and breaker bar to snug
the nut on the underside.
On the top side, tighten the 8 screws holding the hub in place. Make sure that the
measuring and idler wheels turn freely independently of each other.
Flip the measuring head over so the encoder side is on the top.
Make sure that the hub is rotated so that 2 of the inner ring screws are horizontal with
the top of the measuring head and insert 2 screws.
Now tighten up the nut with the 1 ¼ inch socket breaker bar.
After tightening, re-test the yellow wheels to make sure that they spin easily in opposite
directions without binding or touching.
Now replace the 16 screws on the hub. The long ones go on the inner ring and the
short one on the outside. Tighten them firmly.
Rotate the encoder coupling stack to vertical with the top mount and replace the black
plastic coupling insert adapter on top of the stack.
Make sure the rubber O-ring is in the groove of the encoder adapter body and is
positioned as shown. If necessary, lubricate the O-ring in DC111 or an equivalent.
Place the encoder adapter on the hub and insert the 4 screws and lock washers and
tighten.
Make sure that the encoder coupling insert is rotated to connect with coupling on the
underside of the encoder.
Replace the encoder with the cable connection facing up towards the overhead bar
connector.
Shine a light through the plug hole and rotate the measuring wheel. It the encoder is
properly connected you will see the white dot on the encoder coupling moving in the
hole.
Now reinstall the pressure roller. Connect a ¾ inch open end wrench to the end of the
metal arm. Insert the screws and washer all the way through the hole in the control
arm. From the bottom, slide on the spacer and pressure roller with the tapered side up
and the washer and nut. Make sure the roller is in the measuring wheel groove. The
measuring wheel is the one on the bottom.
Tighten the nut and screw using a 3/8” Allen wrench and an 11/16 wrench. If done
properly the pressure wheel should turn with some effort and correspondingly the yellow
measuring wheel should also turn.
The backup depth magnetic pickup is mounted to the encoder adapter. It is held in
place by four screws. Remove the screws and the pickup can then be removed. The
pickup must be properly oriented to work correctly. The slot should be oriented to the
top. The top side is the encoder side. Ensure that an O-ring is inserted between the
plastic housing and the mount. An additional O-ring is used between the connector and
the housing to keep moisture out.
If the backup display is counting backward (i.e., counting negative when going down
hole), simply rotate the pickup 180 degrees to change the direction.
ITE QT UNI
M P/N DESCRIPTION Y T
1 AMSLP152 PIN LOAD 30K# 1-1/2OD 2.0mV/V 350 OHM DUAL TYPE C W/SHUNT 1 EA
2 AM5KM648 LABEL LOAD PIN Ex nA PASSIVE 09ATEX41118 1 EA
LABEL WARNING LOAD PIN ENCDR DO NOT SEPARATE WHEN
3 AM5KM650 ENERGIZED 1 EA
4 AM5KM645 LABEL LOAD PIN CAUTION AVOID MECHANICAL DAMAGE 1 EA
5 AM5KP059 DUST CAP KPT8010C CANNON MS3180-10CA 2 EA
6 ALS4P007 SCREW 4-40 X 3/4 PHIL PAN SST 2 EA
7 AMS8P036 WASHER #4 LOCK SST 2 EA
Specifications
Pin Out
A - +5 to +15 vdc
B - GND
C - A\
D - B\
E - A
F - Case
G - B
Specifications
Pin Out
A - A\
B - A
C - B\
D - B
G - GND
H - +5 to +15 vdc
K - SELECT
P - Case
Specifications
Pin Out
A - A
B - B
D - +5 to +15 vdc
F - GND
G - Case
H - A\
I - B\
Specifications
Pin Out
A - A
B - B
C - A\
D - +5 to +15 vdc
E - B\
F - GND
G - Case
Specifications
Pin Out
A - A
B - B
C - A\
D - +5 to +15 vdc
E - B\
F - GND
G - Case
In the event the load pin needs to be removed for calibration or repair, a pin can be
inserted in its place to support the tension wheel.
At this time a hydraulic load cell can be used to provide tension. The depth portion of
the measuring head will still function properly and accurately.
LOAD PIN
This adapter provides a means to connect a second encoder to the speedometer drive.
This adapter is also available with a magnetic pickup sensor to drive a backup depth
panel.
This optional kit provides the components to add a 2nd encoder on the measuring head.
This kit is for the Orca and Thresher measuring heads only.
Parts for the encoder kit – for Orca and Thresher measuring heads only.
Normally, depth measurement uses an electronic counter with line size compensation
built into the panel.
These are the part numbers for the standard universal measuring wheels.
When taking depth measurements using mechanical counters, for depth accuracy,
different line sizes require different diameter wheels.
To measure in FEET the wheel needs to be 4' circumference including the wireline. To
measure in METERS the wheel needs to be 1.25 m circumference with the wireline
included.
To read in meters, you will need a counter with a 1:1.6 ratio, a wheel with a 1.25 meter
circumference and a 1:2 right angle drive. 4 revolutions of the wheel (5 meters) would =
2.5 turns on the counter. The 1:2 right angle drive would increase this to 5 turns.
A mechanical counter will not work with a 20" wheel because of the gear ratio. One turn
of this wheel equals 5.33 feet so the mechanical counter would be in error. You would
need to add an inline gear reducer to decrease the rotation by about 25%. A special
gear box would be needed to increase the input of the counter by about 1.33 turns per
revolution. This gear box would only be applicable for one size of wireline unless the
wheel was changed to match the wireline.
In addition, the accuracy and configurability of our system eliminates the problem of
corroded counters and mechanical cables. Also, mechanical systems can require a lot
of torque to turn the cable, the right-angle drive, and counter, especially if the
mechanical cable is not run straight and is curved in places. This causes the ends of
the cables to twist off or the drive pins to shear.
BenchMark Wireline does not manufacture any of the components for the mechanical
systems and we cannot control their quality. So, with the complexity of the mechanical
setup, the likelihood of malfunctions and having to use components that we neither
engineer or manufacture, we have chosen to not offer such systems. Our view is that
you’ll have a much better result using our magnetic measuring systems.
BenchMark Wireline has developed Composite Tension and Idler wheels for its
Slickline Measuring Heads. The new composite wheels deliver several advantages
over the legacy steel wheels. Only Tension and Idler wheels are offered using the
composite material.
The new Composite wheels weigh less and cost significantly less than the steel wheels.
The tension wheel assembly comes with a pressed-in bearing to simplify installation.
Steel wheels are very durable but sometimes they can cause undue wear to the coating
on the wire. The composite material in the new wheels is softer by design and absorbs
the operational wear to protect the wire.
PRODUCT FEATURES
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
Idler Wheel 16 5.0 lbs. 2.26 kg
Tension Wheel 16 4.8 lbs. 2.17 kg
Idler Wheel 20 9.0 lbs. 4.08 kg
Tension Wheel 20 21.0 lbs. 9.52 kg
20 Inch
Composite
Tension
Wheel