NEWS DIGEST

Anti-pollution efficacy proven

Lipotec’s research on anti-ageing has recently intrinsic and extrinsic stimuli. Among them,
put the focus on the anti-pollution properties Lipochroman synthetic molecule has dual
of the well-known antioxidant ingredient scavenging properties (ROS and RNS) and helps
Lipochroman synthetic molecule. to protect cells from irreversible damage while
The recent in vitro results have showed a preserving cellular viability against oxidative stress.
reduction by 99.3% of DNA damage induced by With proven excellent long term stability when
pyrene, one of the most abundant and harmful compared to other well-known antioxidants,
air pollutants. Upon photoactivation by UVA Lipochroman synthetic molecule has shown
and/or visible light, pyrene potentiates reactive in vitro an antioxidative effect greater than
oxygen species that induce single strand DNA resveratrol, vitamin E and ferulic acid, and a
breaks. photoprotective profile. In today’s environment,
The research of Lipotec in skin prevention protection against the impact of pollution, stress
has led to numerous patented peptides and and UV is a continued area of focus in skin care
synthetic molecules addressed at modulating products the new anti-pollutants study completes
proteotoxic stress and preventing cellular its shielding profile to meet increasing consumer
damage due to free radicals generated by awareness on age-prevention.

Editor
Richard Scott
richardscott@stepcomms.com Manufacturing agreement
Technical Editor
P2 Science and Bedoukian Research have also increasing the cost effectiveness of the
Chris Smith
chrissmith@stepcomms.com entered into an agreement for the molecules.
development, manufacturing and marketing P2 Science use patent-pending ‘ozonolysis’
Technical Consultant
of flavour and fragrance (F&F) ingredients. technology to convert biomass into specialty
Anthony C. Dweck, BSc. CChem FLS FRSC FRSPH
tonydweck@stepcomms.com Launching into a demanding market, the chemicals. This technology will be used to
companies are hoping to create innovative new produce renewable versions of existing F&F
Publishing Director
molecules for the F&F industry. Bedoukian’s ingredients as well as brand new molecules
Josh Taylor
joshtaylor@stepcomms.com background as a F&F ingredient company, that are inaccessible using current chemical
Trevor Moon combined with P2 Science’s experience in the methods
trevormoon@stepcomms.com renewable chemical sector, will allow them to The companies are hoping to be able to
alleviate regulatory pressures and consumer produce the new molecules for commercial
Business Manager (online)
Chris Vincent demands for greater product sustainability while supply within a 12-month time frame.
chrisvincent@stepcomms.com
Design
COMMENT
Dave Woodall / Ray Ecclestone
To receive regular copies of this magazine,
please apply in writing to The Circulation
Dept, Step Communications Ltd
The power of claims
One of the most valuable ways for it could be to market ineffective sun
personal care companies to rise above protection to consumers but this is
the competition is to make more perhaps a strong, if negative, example
impressive claims within their advertising of how powerful claims can be. In the
COMMUNICATIONS
and on their packaging. Doing this meantime, we watch the further
Published by: correctly requires a great deal of development of properly-researched oral
Step Communications Ltd teamwork between the R&D and sunscreens with interest.
Step House, North Farm Road, marketing departments, however, The article from MMR on page 17
Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN2 3DR, UK unfortunately some companies have offers an excellent insight into how various
Tel: +44 (0)1892 779999
Fax: +44 (0)1892 616177
occasionally overstepped the mark. components of a campaign can be tested
Email: personalcare@stepcomms.com On page 14 of this issue of Personal and the piece illustrates the power of
Website: www.personalcaremagazine.com Care, a new product launch from the efficacy claims to consumers, often
Printed by: US managed to make headlines across proving to be more influential than images
Taylor Bloxham Ltd, Leicester LE4 1BR Europe based on its incredible claim to of celebrity endorsers. This is a real
offer UV protection in a drinkable delivery indication of the constant need for
system. This claim was immediately technological innovation within the
pounced on by newspaper editors who personal care industry, but innovation that
rightly supposed their readers would like is backed up with credible science and
to hear about a new way of protecting rigorous testing rather than marketing
© Step Communications Ltd 2014
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in
their skin, but did not look too deeply claims alone.
a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any for evidence to back up the claim. Richard Scott
means: electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording
or otherwise without prior permission of the publisher It is clear how potentially dangerous Editor
ISSN 2041-0441

September 2014 P E R S O N A L C A R E 5
 NEWS DIGEST

Natural ester portfolio acquired

The HallStar Company has announced a natural esters is a win-win for our valued strengthens their position to serve the burgeoning
strategic expansion of its natural functional customers, who want to develop only the most market for personal care products featuring
ingredients portfolio with the recent acquisition unique products to distinguish their hair and skin renewable natural ingredients. This recent
of the Florasolvs natural esters product line care formulations from others in competitive acquisition is one in a series The HallStar
of specialty ingredients from FloraTech. consumer markets.” Company has completed toward expanding its
“Today’s savvy consumers demand the Florasolvs esters join a growing portfolio natural functional ingredients portfolio. In 2011,
best of both worlds—an assurance of trusted, of The HallStar Company’s organically derived the company acquired Italy-based B&T Company,
natural ingredients with functional properties products that deliver functional benefits. a worldwide leader in olive-based performance
for personal care products,” stated John Paro, The Florasolvs series brand bolsters the company’s ingredients for use in personal care products,
president and CEO, The HallStar Company. growing line of products for the naturals segment and BioChemica International, a leading
“Investing in ingredients such as Florasolvs in the personal care ingredient industry – and developer of exotic butters and oils.

Sustainability concept launched

Clariant has recently launched its EcoTain concept ingredients in six categories – emollients,
for the personal care sector. The increasing emulsifiers, mild surfactants, pearlizers, actives,
emphasis placed by consumers on health and preservatives & boosters – have already been
wellness at both a personal and environmental awarded the label.
level is reflected in the growing demand for Various criteria of sustainability distinguish
sustainable personal care products that use these products. These include the use of
natural ingredients. natural or nature-identical resources, provision
The EcoTain concept is an integral aspect of of sustainable alternatives to undesirable
Clariant’s Secret Code of Beauty, introduced at substances, suitability for skin-friendly
in-cosmetics in 2013, with its five complementary formulations, and handling and processing
codes: sensorial solutions, sustainability, benefits, among others.
consumer and trend insights, innovation power By selecting EcoTain-approved products,
and market expertise. Clariant customers in the personal care segment
Sustainability is the cornerstone of the are able to meet consumer demand for more
EcoTain label, which provides a means of natural, environmentally compatible products at
measuring and understanding the ecological, the same time as contributing to their company’s
economic and social impact of Clariant’s products compromising on the performance or efficiency long-term business success and fulfilling
over the entire value chain. The EcoTain four-step of Clariant’s products. corporate sustainability targets. EcoTain products
concept was developed to protect human, EcoTain promises “sustainable excellence are highly efficient and perform to the same high
environmental and ecological health without at every step” and more than 25 cosmetic standard as traditional products – often higher.

Call for papers

Colour protection The Scientific Committee of the IFSCC Conference

preserves volume 2015 in Zurich, Switzerland, has invited

submissions of abstracts for oral presentations
and/or a poster presentations at the conference.
Dow Corning has introduced an innovative manager for Dow Corning’s hair care market. The important deadlines for the process
silicone microemulsion that helps bring hair “We designed the new Dow Corning CE-1874 are as follows:
repair and colour protection benefits to Microemulsion so that they no longer have to w 31 October 2014
shampoos without sacrificing hair volume. compromise. Now they can create shampoos Abstract submission deadline
The new product reflects the growing that deliver more of the benefits consumers w 31 January 2015
demand from consumers for products that want.” Notification of abstract selection results
can help address one of their biggest hair Dow Corning CE-1874 Microemulsion is (by e-mail)
care issues – how to repair damaged hair. a clear, water-dispersible microemulsion of w 31 March 2015
Shampoo manufacturers are launching silicone polyether that delivers feather-light Deadline to send the full papers
lightweight, volumising shampoos that cater smoothness. It can be used in standard, (accepted abstracts)
to consumer desires for youthful, fuller hair. sulphate-free and clear shampoos to help w 21-23 September
However, only a fraction of these products increase the fullness of thin, tired-looking hair; 2015 Conference
claim to repair damaged hair. to repair dull, dry hair; and to protect and Abstracts must be submitted in English with
“In the past, shampoo formulators often maintain the colour of colour-treated hair. a maximum of 500 words. Tables and graphs
felt that they had to compromise hair Suitable for use on many hair types, the cannot be included in the abstract. The abstract
volume to achieve the benefits of repair and product also has the ability to enhance hair should describe an original scientific work and
protection,” said Feifei Lin, Americas marketing shine and improve ease of combing. must not have been previously submitted to
any other conference.

6 P E R S O N A L C A R E September 2014
 NEWS DIGEST

Superfood inspiration
Croda has unveiled its latest products derived increasing hair plasticity to help prevent breakage.
from superfoods; Hydroastivum P for powerful Defend cuticles from heat and styling damage
moisturisation and anti-irritancy properties for the with Crodasone P, an advanced copolymer that
hair and skin; and Crodasone P for protection offers proven protection against cuticle cracking
against cuticle cracking caused by heat and caused by common hair styling practices such
styling damage. as blow-drying, combing and styling. Due to its
Obtain hydration harmony with Hydrosativum P, complex polymeric structure, Crodasone P
a highly moisture retentive biopolymer cross-links on drying to form a conditioning and
that exhibits powerful moisturisation protective network that offers functional benefits
properties in hair and skin care formulations. to all types of hair care products. Studies have
Hydrosativum P immerses the skin with shown that Crodasone P can reduce thermal
moisture to improve firmness and elasticity cracking by 49% in an aqueous spritz and
which promotes younger looking skin. As well 38% in a conditioner system. Crodasone P
as moisturisation benefits Hydrosativum P has is ideally suited to leave-on styling products or
additional anti-irritancy properties ideal for conditioners claiming heat defence but is also
skin and scalp care. Hydrosativum P is naturally proven to be effective in rinse-off applications
substantive to a variety of hair types from such as shampoos, conditioners and hair
different ethnicities binding to moisture and treatments to defend the cuticles from damage
hydrating hair at a wide range of humidities, caused during styling.

New member for Texture and smoothness

ethical union
The personal care business unit of Naturex,
of stressed skin improved
manufacturer of natural ingredients to the
cosmetic industry, has become the newest Symrise launches SymVital AR, which is a 100% the benefits in skin care application.
member of the Union for Ethical BioTrade. pure and natural ginger root extract. SymVital The versatile skin beautifier SymVital AR is
Naturex sources raw materials from all over AR is proven to significantly improve the skin suitable for all complexions and ages. It protects
the world and develops innovative ingredients texture and smoothness of stressed skin, and improves skin smoothness, complexion
that combine performance with sustainable smoothing wrinkles and enhancing complexion regularity and homogeneity of the challenged
practices. Becoming a UEBT member is part regularity in three weeks. It also helps to reduce and stressed skin. Antioxidant and soothing
of Naturex’s sustainability programme launched signs of sun damage in less than two weeks. activities provide skin protecting and caring
in September 2013. In continuation with the SymVital AR is a 100% natural ingredient properties. SymVital AR is proven to significantly
company’s dedication to sustainable principles from ginger root. The spice has a long history of smooth wrinkles and even the skin tone in 21
and practices, this programme drives use for food and pharmaceutical application. days and also help to reduce signs of sun
improvements in ethical and responsible Symrise uses an eco-friendly process to extract damages in less than 2 weeks.
business practices across the entire value the main components of ginger with soothing After 56 days of using a cream with 0.2%
chain. and antioxidant activity. Thanks to a multistep SymVital AR twice daily, the product significantly
As part of UEBT membership, Naturex separation process, the final extract is enriched decreased the appearance of UV spots
will continue to implement Ethical BioTrade with the two main compounds responsible for compared to a placebo product.
requirements in the supplier management
system of its fast-growing personal care
business unit. Relying on 8 purchasing offices
located near strategic sourcing areas, Naturex
will also further develop its partnership with its
Self-emulsifying waxes
suppliers to promote good practices throughout At the SEPAWA Congress in Germany, KahlWax forms a glossy surface. It also has an excellent
its supply chains, giving initial priority to the will be presenting the company’s self-emulsifying oil-binding capacity and it improves the thermal
most extensive cosmetic ingredient supply waxes which open up great new options for the stability of sticks thanks to its high melting point
chains. Moreover, Naturex’s agronomic cosmetics industry. (82-86˚C). KahlWax 5109 with its PEG-free
department provides technical assistance The advantage of self-emulsifying waxes lies in emulsifier boosts the sensory properties of
and promotes, encourages and monitors the the combination of a wax blend with a PEG-free formulations and stabilises oil/water emulsions.
implementation of responsible practices by emulsifier, meaning they can be simply added Kahlwax 5115 combines the benefits of rice
actors involved in the agricultural production to the water phase and heated to approximately bran wax and myrica wax and is specifically
chain. 80˚C for gentle melting. optimised for use in oil/water emulsions. Myrica
Naturex’s Personal Care Business Unit The KahlWax portfolio includes two self- wax is a fruit peel wax from Latin America.
will report annually on the progress made emulsifying waxes. Firstly, Kahlwax 5109 is based It has a low melting point (40-50˚C) combined
regarding its UEBT membership requirements. on sunflower and carnauba wax. Sunflower wax with exceptional hardness. Rice bran wax is a
Independent auditors will audit Naturex is a pale yellow wax with a transparent melt. hull wax produced as a by-product during the
triannually to confirm adherence with UEBT It has a melting point of 78˚C, yields a balanced preparation of rice bran oil. It has a high melting
standards. hardness and has an excellent oil-binding point (78-82˚C) and due its crystallinity forms
capacity. Carnauba wax is a very hard wax which soft, matt oleogels.

September 2014 P E R S O N A L C A R E 7
 NEWS DIGEST

Active repairs and moisturises skin

Optimising lipid organisation, reinforcing the molecular signature Moisturising Factors),
epidermal cohesion and activating keratinocyte for very dry skin was true biological
differentiation are the three biological established and compared humectants for the
mechanisms involved in skin hydration with that of normal skin, stratum corneum.
homeostasis. proving the benefits of Therefore, Cohesium
Silab has developed Cohesium, a repairing Cohesium on epidermal maintains an effective
and moisturising active ingredient, rich in lipid organisation. epidermal barrier and
purified ophiopogon tuber fructosans. In addition, it has a positive ensures tailored skin
Cohesium normalises the barrier function. action on the formation of hydration.
An original study shows that Cohesium tight junctions and keratinocyte differentiation. Cohesium improves comfort and protection
stimulates the natural synthesis of lipids and Cohesium contributes to skin hydration by and is recommended in any moisturising and
optimises their organisation. For the first time, increasing the levels of NMFs (Natural restructuring care for all skin types.

Milan exhibition Ester has spreadability

to return Lonza has recently launched a new Lonzest DC lotions, overnight serums and non-greasy
The Making Cosmetics exhibition will return to Emollient Ester that offers excellent spreadability aesthetic formulations.
the Centro Congressi Milanofiori in Milan on on the skin and skin conditioning properties “Lonzest DC emollient ester is a broadly
24-25 November. The show has been fine- that will benefit personal care formulators. functional ingredient in formulation. One of the
tuned after feedback on the highly successful Representing the latest multi-functional major benefits is its ability to provide pigment
exhibition last year to provide the attendees ingredient from Lonza, Lonzest DC (dicaprylyl wetting for colour cosmetics,” said Lisa Bouldin,
with the most useful and up-to-date carbonate) is a light ester emollient that head of Lonza Personal Care. “Study results also
information in an environment conducive conditions skin with superior solubility of UV confirmed it is capable of helping to solubilise
to networking. sun filters. It has excellent pigment-wetting many different organic UV filters, as well as to
Once again, Making Cosmetics will properties and is a silicone-free alternative. improve the dispersion of inorganic UV filters.”
integrate with SICC’s Formulating Cosmetics The product helps give a light, dry, powdery feel Lonza has incorporated the Lonzest DC
to collaboratively produce the first Italian to the skin so that the skin does not feel oily technology into two available formulations
event dedicated to cosmetic formulators. or greasy despite the application of a sunscreen for cosmetic and personal care formulators:
This combination also creates a unique or face lotion. Lonzest DC can be used in HydraTherapy Sleep Time Mask and Polyaldo
opportunity to provide “up-to-the-minute sunscreens, colour cosmetics, daily facial Base Formulations.
information from across the innovation chain,
right up to University level research”.
The conference will include updates on
regulatory fulfilments and the economical
forecasts in the field, followed by a series of
Management changes
speeches focusing on marketing and business Werner Breuers, board member of Lanxess AG “We thank Mr. Breuers for his work and
tools (with a focus on the opportunities of the and, up to now, responsible for the segments wish him all the best for his future,” said Rolf
web), product development, packaging and Performance Polymers and Advanced Stomberg, chairman of the supervisory board.
much more. Intermediates, will leave the company at his own The Supervisory Board has with immediate
This year the show will focus on topical request after his contract ends on 31 May 2015, effect handed over the responsibility for the
issues surrounding the sustainability of in order to pursue new challenges. Mr Breuers will segments Performance Polymers and Advanced
products, and moving towards the concepts leave the board of management with immediate Intermediates to Matthias Zachert, chairman of
of Expo 2015. effect. He will, however, remain in an advisory the board of management of Lanxess AG, on a
role to Lanxess for a transitional period. temporary basis.

Anti-blemish and hydrating effects

Naolys, the French company specialised in effect translated by a decrease of the shine
plant cell culture presents active plant cells until 6 hours after a single application, a
with mattifying and hydrating activities from decrease of the sebum rate by 18% after
Chinese peony (Paeonia lactiflora). 56 days of treatment, and, a hydrating effect
As a multifunctional active ingredient, translated by an increase of 37% of
Pure Light Chinese Peony limits shine, reduces corneometric values after 28 days of treatment.
inflammation and increases hydration. All tests were performed with a concentration
In vitro tests show an inhibition of the 5 alpha- of 0.1% of a powder made of 100% whole plant
reductase by 16%, a decrease of IL-6 by 19% cells. Pure Light Chinese peony is an active
and an inhibition of the release of substance P ingredient that can be used in any formulation
by 20%. A clinical study shows a mattifying from skin care to makeup applications.

8 P E R S O N A L C A R E September 2014