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IS 187 : 2022
Indian Standard

—
( तीसरा पुनरीक्षण )

Textiles — Cotton Long Cloth —

Specification
( Third Revision )

ICS 59.080.30

© BIS 2022

B U R E A U OF I N D I A N S T A N D A R D S

MANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARG

NEW DELHI-110002
www.bis.gov.in www.standardsbis.in

September 2022 Price Group 4

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Man-Made Fibres, Cotton and their Products Sectional Committee, TXD 31

FOREWORD

This Indian Standard (Third Revision) was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards, after the draft
finalized by the Man-Made Fibres, Cotton and their Products Sectional Committee had been approved
by the Textiles Division Council.

Long cloth refers to a plain cotton cloth originally made in comparatively long pieces. It was used
principally for underclothing and shirts. Variety 1 of this standard is based on IND/TC/0023 Long cloth,
white or khaki, issued by the Ministry of Defence, Government of India.

This standard was originally published in 1957 and was subsequently revised in 1965 and 1978. The
standard has again been revised to incorporate the following changes:

a) All Amendments have been incorporated.

b) BIS certification marking clause has been modified.
c) References to Indian Standards have been updated.

The composition of the Committee responsible for the formulation of this standard is given in Annex
B.

For the purpose of deciding whether a particular requirement of this standard is complied with, the final
value, observed or calculated, expressing the result of a test or analysis shall be rounded off in
accordance with IS 2 : 2022 ‘Rules for rounding off numerical values (second revision)’. The number
of significant places retained in the rounded off value should be the same as that of the specified value
in this standard.
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IS 187 : 2022

Indian Standard
TEXTILES — COTTON LONG CLOTH — SPECIFICATION
( Third Revision )
1 SCOPE
3.2.1 The cloth shall be free from dressing and
1.1 This standard prescribes constructional filling materials and from substances liable to
details and other particulars of two varieties of cause subsequent tendering.
cotton long cloth, bleached or dyed. If agreed,
man-made fibres may be blended with cotton. 3.2.2 The cloth, when visually examined shall
be reasonably free from spinning, weaving and
1.2 This standard does not specify the general processing defects.
appearance, feel, etc, of the cloth (see also 4.3).
4 REQUIREMENTS
2 REFERENCES
4.1 Construction — The cloth shall comply with
The standards listed in Annex A contain the requirements specified in Table 1 excepting
provisions which, through reference in this text, the count of warp and weft which have been
constitute provisions of this standard. At the time given only for guidance.
of publication, the editions indicated were valid.
All standards are subject to revision and parties 4.2 Chemical and other requirements of the cloth
to agreements based on this standard are shall be as given in Table 2.
encouraged to investigate the possibility of
applying the most recent edition of the standards 4.3 Sealed Sample — If, in order to illustrate,
indicated in Annex A. indeterminable characteristics such as general
appearance, lustre, feel and shade of the cotton
3 MANUFACTURE long cloth, a sample has been agreed upon and
sealed, the supply shall be in conformity with the
3.1 Yarn — The cotton yarn used in the sample in such respects.
manufacture of the cloth shall be satisfactory in
evenness and reasonably free from neps and 4.3.1 The custody of the sealed sample shall be
spinning defects. a matter of prior agreement between the buyer
and the seller.
3.2 Cloth — The cloth shall be bleached or dyed.
If bleached it shall have a full bleached finish. It 5 MARKING
shall be free from blueing or optical whitening
agents. Chlorine bleach shall not be used for the
5.1 The cloth shall be marked with the
purpose. The fabric, if dyed, shall be free from
banned dyes, banned chemicals and heavy following:
metals. a) Name of the material and variety no.;
b) Width and length of the piece;
NOTE — The desired whiteness of cloth shall c) Manufacturer’s name, initials or trade-mark,
be achieved only by imparting full bleached if any; and
finish free from any blueing or whitening d) Year of manufacture.
agents, if desired by the buyer.

1
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IS 187 : 2022

Table 1 Constructional Particulars of Long Cloth

(Clause 4.1)
Variety Approximate Count Ends Picks Mass Breaking Strength Length, Width, Weave
No. of Yarn (Cotton per cm per cm g/m2 on 5 × 20 cm Strip, m, Min cm
Count (tex) N (kgf), Min

Warp Weft Warp Weft

(1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11)
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

1 44s (13.5) 44s (13.5) 39 31 100 345 (35) 245 (25) 36 91 Plain
or as agreed

2 22s (27) 22s (27) 26 23 130 385 (39) 285 (29)

36 91 Plain
or as agreed
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Tolerance, — — ±5 ±5 + 5 percent — — — ± 2 cm —
Percent − 2.5
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Method — — ← IS 1963 → IS 1964 ←IS 1969 (Part 1)→ ← IS 1954 → Visual
of Test

2
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IS 187 : 2022

Table 2 Chemical Requirements of Cotton Fabrics for Long Cloth

(Clause 4.2 and 7.2)

Sl Characteristic Requirement Method of Test

No.
(1) (2) (3) (4)
____________________________________________________________________________________

i) Colour fastness to light 4 or better IS/ISO 105-B01 or

(Dyed fabrics only) (see Note) IS/ISO 105-B02

ii) Colour fastness to washing 4 or better IS/ISO 105-C10

(Dyed fabrics only) [Test Number D (4)]

iii) Scouring loss, percent, Max 2.0 IS 1383 (Mild method)

iv) pH value 6.0 to 8.5 IS 1390

v) Shrinkage or elongation, percent, 2.5 IS 2977

Max

vi) Residual starch, percent, Max 0.5 IS 1967

vii) Water solubles, percent, Max 1.0 IS 3456

(for bleached cloth only)

viii) Ash content, percent, Max (after 0.5 IS 199

removal of water soluble matter)

ix) Blend composition (for blended As agreed ± 3 IS 1564

fabrics), Percent IS 1889 (Part 4)
IS 2005
IS 2176
IS 2177
IS 3416
IS 3421

NOTE −− In case of dispute, the colour fastness to light shall be determined by the method prescribed in
IS/ISO 105-B01.

____________________________________________________________________________________

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IS 187 : 2022

5.1.1 BIS Certification Marking

7 SAMPLING
The product(s) conforming to the requirements of
this standard may be certified as per the 7.1 For determining the conformity in respect of
conformity assessment schemes under the the physical characteristics, namely, ends and
provisions of the Bureau of Indian Standards Act, picks, mass per square metre, breaking load,
2016 and the Rules and Regulations framed width and length, the scale of sampling and the
thereunder, and the product(s) may be marked criteria for conformity as given in IS 3919 shall
with the Standard Mark. be followed.

6 PACKING 7.2 For ascertaining the conformity in respect of

chemical requirements (see Table 2), the scale of
The cloth shall be packed in bales or cases in sampling and criteria for conformity as given in
conformity with the procedure laid down in IS IS 5463 shall be followed.
1347 or in IS 293, as required.

4
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IS 187 : 2022
ANNEX A
(Clause 2.1)

LIST OF REFERRED INDIAN STANDARDS

IS No. Title IS No. Title

199 : 1989 Textiles — Estimation of 1967 : 2022 Methods for estimation of

moisture, total size or finish, ash residual starch in cotton fabrics
and fatty matter in grey and after desizing (first revision)
finished cotton textile materials 1969 (Part 1) : 2018 Textiles — Tensile
(third revision) properties of fabrics — Part 1
293 : 1980 Code for seaworthy packaging Determination of maximum
of cotton yarn and cloth (third force and elongation at
revision) maximum force using the strip
1347 : 1972 Specification for inland method (fourth revision)
packaging of cotton cloth and 2005 : 1988 Methods for quantitative
yarn (first revision) chemical analysis of binary
1383 : 1977 Methods for determination of mixtures of nylon 6 or nylon 6,6
scouring loss in grey and fibres and certain other fibres
finished cotton textile materials (first revision)
(first revision) 2176 : 1988 Textiles — Binary mixtures of
1390 : 2022 Textiles — Determination of pH cellulose acetate and certain
of aqueous extract (third other fibres — Methods for
revision) quantitative chemical analysis
1564 : 1988 Method for quantitative (first revision)
chemical analysis of binary 2177 : 1988 Textiles — Binary mixtures of
mixtures of cellulose triacetate cellulose triacetate and
and certain other fibres (first secondary cellulose acetate
revision) fibres – Methods for quantitative
1889 (Part 4) : 1979 Method for quantitative chemical analysis (first revision)
chemical analysis of binary 2977 : 1989 Fabrics (other than wool) —
mixtures of regenerated Method for determination of
cellulose fibres and cotton – Part dimensional changes on soaking
4 Sulphuric acid method (first in water (first revision)
revision) 3416 : 1988 Method for quantitative
1954 : 1990 Determination of length and chemical analysis of binary
width of woven fabrics — mixtures of polyester fibres with
Methods (second revision) cotton or regenerated cellulose
1963 : 1981 Methods for determination of (second revision)
threads per unit length in woven 3421 : 1988 Textiles — Binary mixtures of
fabrics (second revision) acrylic, certain modacrylics and
1964 : 2001 Textiles — Methods for certain other fibres – Methods
determination of mass per unit for quantitative chemical
length and mass per unit area of analysis (first revision)
fabrics (second revision) 3456 : 2022 Method for determination of
water soluble matter of textile
materials (first revision)

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IS 187 : 2022

IS No. Title IS No. Title

3919 : 1966 Methods for sampling cotton IS/ISO 105-B02 : 2014 Textiles — Tests for
fabrics for determination of colour fastness — Part B02
physical characteristics Colour fastness to artificial light:
5463 : 1969 Methods for sampling of cotton Xenon arc fading lamp test
fabrics for chemical tests IS/ISO 105-C10 : 2006 Textiles — Tests for
IS/ISO 105-B01 : 2014 Textiles — Tests for colour fastness Part C10 Colour
colour fastness — Part B01 fastness to washing with soap or
Colour fastness to light: soap and soda
Daylight

6
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IS 187 : 2022

ANNEX B
(Foreword)

COMMITTEE COMPOSITION

Man-Made Fibers, Cotton and their Products Sectional Committee,

TXD 31

Organization Representative(s)

ICAR – Central Institute for Research on Cotton DR P. K. MANDHYAN (Chairman)

Technology, Mumbai

Ahmedabad Textile Industry’s Research Association, SHRIMATI DEEPALI PLAWAT

Ahmedabad SHRI JIGAR DAVE (Alternate)

Association of Synthetic Fibre Industries, New Delhi SHRI M. S. VERMA

AYM Syntex Ltd, Dadra and Nagar Haveli SHRI ARNAB SAMANTHA
SHRI SAUGATA DAS (Alternate)

Confederation of Indian Textile Industry, New Delhi SHRI D. K. NAIR

SHRI SHAJU MANGALAM (Alternate)

Consumer Guidance Society of India, Mumbai DR SITARAM DIXIT

DR M. S. KAMATH (Alternate)

Cotton Association of India, Mumbai SECRETARY

Defence Materials and Stores Research and Development SHRI ASHOK KUMAR YADAV
Establishment, Kanpur SHRI BISWA RANJAN DAS (Alternate)

Grasim Industries Limited, Vadodara SHRI AJAY SARDANA

DR ROHITASVA KUMAR (Alternate)

ICAR – Central Institute for Research on Cotton DR SENTHIL KUMAR

Technology, Mumbai DR A ARPUTHARAJ (Alternate)

JCT Limited, Phagwara SHRI KHUSHWINDER SINGH DHILLON

SHRI ARWINDER SINGH (Alternate)

North India Textile Mills Association, Chandigarh SHRI SANJAY GARG

SHRI SIDHARTHA KHANNA (Alternate)

Northern India Textile Research Association, Ghaziabad SHRI SANJEEV SHUKLA

SHRIMATI NEHA KAPIL (Alternate)

Office of Textile Commissioner, Mumbai SHRI SOURABH KULKARNI

SHRI PRANAV PARASHAR (Alternate)

7
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IS 187 : 2022

Organization Representative(s)

Reliance Industries Limited, Mumbai SHRI AJAY GUPTA

SHRI KESHAV P PAAREEK (Alternate)

Textile Committee, Mumbai SHRI J. D. BARMAN

SHRI P. N. S. SIVAKUMAR (Alternate)

The Bombay Textile Research Association, Mumbai SHRI R. A. SHAIKH

SHRIMATI PRAGATI KULKARNI (Alternate)

The Cotton Corporation of India Ltd, Navi Mumbai SHRI P. N. PILLEWAR

SHRI V. K. SINHA (Alternate)

The Cotton Textile Export Promotion Council, Mumbai SHRI SIDDARTHA RAJGOPAL

The Southern India Mills Association, Coimbatore SHRI D. SURESH ANAND KUMAR

The Synthetic & Rayon Textile Export Promotion SHRI S. BALARAJU

Council, Mumbai

The Synthetic and Art Silk Mills Research Association, DR MANISHA MATHUR
Mumbai SHRIMATI ASHWINI A. SUDAM (Alternate)

Veermata Jijabai Technological Institute, Mumbai DR (SMT) SURANJANA GANGOPADHYAY

In personal capacity (D-618, Maruti Paradise, SHRI A. SATHEESAN

Sector - 15, CBD-Belapur, Navi Mumbai - 400614.Maharastra)

BIS Directorate General SHRI J. K. GUPTA, Scientist E and Head

(Textiles) [Representing Director General
(Ex-officio)]

Member Secretary
SHRI MAYUR KATIYAR
Scientist 'B' (Textiles), BIS

8
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Review of Indian Standards

Review of Indian Standards

Amendments are issued to standards as the need arises on the basis of comments. Standards are also reviewed
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needed; if the review indicates that changes are needed, it is taken up for revision. Users of Indian Standards
should ascertain that they are in possession of the latest amendments or edition by referring to the website-
www.bis.gov.in or www.standardsbis.in.
This Indian Standard has been developed from Doc No.: TXD 31(18054).

Amendments Issued Since Publication

__________________________________________________________________________________________
Amend No. Date of Issue Text Affected
__________________________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________________

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