Translated from Russian to English - www.onlinedoctranslator.

com

Master Class
"Golden Doll"

Author of the scheme

Ksenia Pilipeyko

@kseniya_igrushki
 HELLO, DEAR CRAFTSWORKERS!

I am glad to welcome you to the pages of my master class.

In this master class I will tell you in detail how to knit a Zlata doll.

IMPORTANT!

* This master class does not contain knitting lessons and assumes basic
crocheting skills.

* The “Zlata Doll” master class is my original work, so it is intended for

personal use only. Please do not copy, share, sell or post this master class
online. Respect other people's work!

* When publishing photographs of your works made using this master class,
be sure to indicate me as the author of the pattern (Kseniya Pilipeyko) or a
link to my page on Instagram (@kseniya_igrushki). It’s not difficult for you,
but it’s nice for me -

If you have any questions about this master class, you can always contact
me for help.

My contacts:

Instagram profile: @kseniya_igrushki

VK group:https://vk.com/kseniya_igrushki

Email:ksushapilipeiko@gmail.com
 NECESSARY MATERIALS:

1.Hook1.90 mm
2.Skein of yarnYarnArt Jeans beige body color (number 07)
3.Some yarnYarnArt Jeans white (number 62)
4.Yarn Pekhorka “Children’s novelty” for hair
(for light ones - color number 165, for dark ones - color number 187.
Consumption is less than a skein)
5.Eyes10 mm on secure mount
6.Copper wire for frame, length35 cm, diameter 2 mm
7.Thin medical plaster or mounting tape
8.Sheet of thick cardboard width18-20 cm
9.Blush for cheeks
10.Hair bands
eleven.Holofiber filler
12.Scissors
13.Big needle
14.A few threads of black and white to decorate the face

When using these materials, the doll's height is 30 cm

 LEGEND:

KA – amigurumi ring

VP - air loop

sc - single crochet

inc – increase (2sc in one loop)

dec – decrease (2sc together)

dc - single crochet

pssn – half double crochet

ss – connecting post

All pieces are knitted in a spiral pattern unless otherwise noted.

 Left hand:

We fill the handles at the very end, when the whole body is tied. This point is
described below.

1.5sc in KA

2.5pr (10)

3-5.10sc (3 rows)

6.3dc with a common top in one loop (there are 4 loops on the hook), 9dc
(10)

7.10sc

8.(ub,2sc)*2, dec (7)

9.(etc,2sc)*2, inc (10)

10-15.10sc (6 rows)
16.2sc, 2ub, 2sc, 2pr from hdc (10)

The half-columns need to be tied tightly enough so that the elbow does not turn out
loose.

17.2sbn, 2pr, 2sbn, 2ub (10)

18.(4sc, inc)*2 (12)

19-27.12sc (9 rows)

Knit an additional sc to finish knitting on the inside of the arm (finger facing
forward). Cut the thread and hide it inside.

Right hand:

1.5sc in KA

2.5pr (10)

3-5.10sc (3 rows)

6.3dc with a common top in one loop (there are 4 loops on the hook), 9dc
(10)

7.10sc
8.(ub,2sc)*2, dec (7)

9.(etc,2sc)*2, inc (10)

10-15.10sc (6 rows)

Work 3 or 4 offset stitches to level the elbow. The next column will be
the beginning of a new row.

16.2sbn, 2pr from hdc, 2sbn, 2ub (10)

17.2sbn, 2ub, 2sbn, 2pr (10)

18.(4sc, inc)*2 (12)

19-27.12sc (9 rows)

Finish knitting on the inside of the arm (finger facing forward).

 Right leg:

We start knitting with white yarn.

Dial 9ch

1.Starting from the second loop from the hook, we knit7sc, 3sc in the last loop, 6sc on
the second side of the chain, inc (18)

2.etc,6sbn, 3pr, 6sbn, 2pr (24)

3.1sc, inc, 6sc, (1sc, inc)*3, 6sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (30)

4.30sc

The marker should be exactly in the middle at the back.

5.9sc, 6ub, 9sc (24)

6.dec,6sc, 4ub, 6sc, dec (18)

7.(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

8-13.12sc (6 rows)

After knitting 3 rows, fill the foot tightly.

Then knit three more rows.

14.etc,11sc (13)

15.13sbn

16.etc,12sc (14)

17.14sc

18.etc,13sc (15)

In the 19th row on the inside of the leg, change the thread to beige.
19-20.15sc (2 rows)

Fill the leg. Pay special attention to curves.

Next you need to tie your knees. To do this, you need to make 3 decreases exactly behind
the leg and 3 increases exactly in front.

I got it like this:

21.3ub, 3sbn, 3pr, 3sbn (15)

22.15sc

23.3pr, 3sbn, 3ub, 3sbn (15)

24.15sc

25.(etc,4sc)*3 (18)

26-34.18sc (9 rows)

Work an additional sc to finish on the inside of the leg. I knitted 13 sc, you
may get a different number of stitches due to different knitting densities.
Cut the thread and hide it.
 Left leg:

The left leg is knitted almost the same as the right. The only difference is in the design of the
lower leg.

We start knitting with white yarn.

Dial 9ch

1.Starting from the second loop from the hook, we knit7sc, 3sc in the last loop, 6sc on
the second side of the chain, inc (18)

2.etc,6sbn, 3pr, 6sbn, 2pr (24)

3.1sc, inc, 6sc, (1sc, inc)*3, 6sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (30)

4.30sc

The marker should be exactly in the middle at the back.

5.9sc, 6ub, 9sc (24)

6.dec,6sc, 4ub, 6sc, dec (18)

7.(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

8-13.12sc (6 rows)

After knitting 3 rows, fill the foot tightly. Then knit three more rows.

14.2sc, inc, 9sc (13)

15.13sbn

16.3sc, inc, 9sc (14)

17.14sc

18.4sc, inc, 9sc (15)

In the 19th row on the inside of the leg, change the thread to beige.

19-20.15sc (2 rows)

Fill the leg.

Next you need to tie your knees. To do this, you need to make 3 decreases exactly behind
the leg and 3 increases exactly in front.

I got it like this:

21.3ub, 3sbn, 3pr, 3sbn (15)

22.15sc

23.3pr, 3sbn, 3ub, 3sbn (15)

24.15sc

25.(etc,4sc)*3 (18)

26-34.18sc (9 rows)

Work an additional sc to finish on the inside of the leg. I knitted an

additional 1sc, and in the next column I changed the thread to white.

Make a 3 ch and connect the legs with a single crochet. This column will be the
beginning of the next row.

Toes should point straight forward.

 Body:

1.18sc on the first leg,make a ss in the already knitted stitch, so that later there
are no holes between the legs,3sc along a chain of ch,ss in an already knitted
stitch,18sc on the second leg, 3sc on the second side of the chain (42)

There is no need to work a ss in the next row!

2.3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

3-9.48sc (7 rows)

10.3sc, dec, (6sc, dec)*5, 3sc (42)

eleven.(5sc, dec)*6 (36)

Knit an additional 9sc and change the thread to beige. Place a marker in the
next stitch. This will be the beginning of a new series. The color transition will
be at hand and will not be noticeable.

I start filling the legs from the middle and the body when the doll's panties are tied. It is
also very important to fill the transition from the legs to the body evenly and tightly so
that the doll does not bend in this place and can stand confidently.
12-24.36sc (13 rows)

Fill your body tightly.

Remove the marker and knit additional stitches to the middle of the back. I
knitted 10sc
Next you need to knit the handles and form the shoulders. We tie the handles exactly on
the sides of the body, attaching them so that the fingers point forward.

25.6 sc on the back, 5 sc, grabbing the loops of the arm (inner side) and body, 13 sc on
the chest, 5 sc, grabbing the loops of the second arm (inner side) and body, 7 sc on the
back. Place a marker in the next stitch. This will be the beginning of a new series (36)

26.6sc along the back, 1sc to where we connected the first handle to the body, i.e. into an
already knitted stitch, then 7 sc along the outside of the handle, 13 sc across the chest, 1 sc to
where we connected the second handle to the body, then 7 sc along the outside of the arm, 7
sc across the back (42)

27.(5sc, dec)*6 (36)

28.2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*5, 2sc (30)

Prepare the frame.

To do this, take a copper wire 35 cm long. Fold it in half and twist it, as
shown in the photo. Insulate the ends of the wire with adhesive tape or
tape.
Insert the frame into the handles. For convenience, place them to the sides.
Fill your arms up to your elbows. Fill loosely. Just a little to give them shape. I
don't fill my hands at all.

From the elbow to the shoulder, fill the arms more tightly.

29.(3sc, dec)*6 (24)

thirty.12ub (12)

Fill the hangers evenly and give them a nice shape.

31-35.12sc (5 rows)

Fill the neck very tightly to the very top.

 Head:

1.6sc in KA

2.6pr (12)

3.(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

4.(2sc, inc)*6 (24)

5.(3sc, inc)*6 (30)

6.2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc (36)

7.(5sc, inc)*6 (42)

8.3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

9.(7sbn, inc)*6 (54)

10-24.54sc (15 rows)

Insert safety eyes between rows 18 and 19 of the head. Between the legs there is
an eyelet of 8sc. There are 6 visible columns.

25.(7sc, dec)*6 (48)

26.3sc, dec, (6sc, dec)*5, 3sc (42)

27.(5sc, dec)*6 (36)

Start filling your head.

Fill the top of your head tightly, but leave the bottom of your head flat. Don't pull your head
into an oval.

28.2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*5, 2sc (30)

29.(3sc, dec)*6 (24)

thirty.(2sc, dec)*6 (18)

31.(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

Leave the thread for sewing.

 Face tightening and shaping:

First tightening:

Take a needle with beige thread.

Approximately determine the middle between the eyes. Count three rows up from the edge
of the knitting and insert the needle into the middle stitch between the rows.
Bring the needle near the middle of the first eye. Insert the needle from the other side of
the eye and bring it out at the bottom of the head, moving one column to the left from the
starting point. Please note that the thread should lie under the eye.

Insert the needle, moving one column to the right from the starting point, and bring it out
near the outer middle of the second eye.
Insert the needle from the other side of the eye and bring it out to the starting point. Make
a tightening by pulling the threads. Tie a couple of knots. Hide the ends inside your head.
The first tightening is ready.
 Second tightening:

Let's make the eyes a little closer to each other.

Insert the needle near the starting point of the previous tightening and bring it out
near the inner side of the first eye from below.

Insert the needle near the same eye at the top and bring it out near the second eye from the
inside at the bottom (try to insert the needle as close to the eyes as possible so that the threads
are then hidden under them). Insert the needle near the same eye at the top and bring it out at
the bottom of the head, departing one column from the end of the thread. Make a tightening by
pulling the threads. Tie a couple of knots and hide the ends inside your head. The second
tightening is ready.
Add a little filler just to the cheeks to plump them up.

Face design:

Embroider the nose, moving one row down from the eyes. I made 6 stitches.

Take a needle with white thread. Enter it anywhere between the columns and draw it below
the eyes, as shown in the photo. Insert the needle at the top of the same eye and withdraw it
at the top of the second eye.

Insert the thread at the bottom of the eye and bring it out to the starting point. Do not pull the
thread too much so that it does not slip under the eye. Make a couple of knots and hide the ends
inside your head.
Take a needle with black thread.

Insert the needle into the back of the head and out near the inside of the first eye.
Insert the needle from the other side of the eye, moving one column to the side, and
bring it out near the inside of the second eye.
Insert the needle from the other side of the second eye, moving one column to the side,
and bring it out near the first eye, stepping two columns to the side (see photo below).

Next we embroider the eyes and eyelashes in the same way, i.e. with each stitch
we move from one eye to the other.
Next, stepping back three rows up from the eyes, embroider the edges with black thread.
 Right ear:

Take a needle with beige thread. Counting 7 stitches to the side from the doll's eye, insert the
needle from top to bottom between the stitches at the level of the top of the eye and bring it out
between the stitches, counting 4 rows down. Repeat one more time. You will get a loop, as in the
photo.

In the resulting loop we knit 2 ch, 5 hdc, 3 dc. Pull the thread and cut it.
Tie the ends of the two threads together and hide them inside your
head with a needle.
 Left ear:

Take a needle with beige thread. Counting 7 columns to the side from the doll's eye, bring the
needle from the bottom up, going down two rows from the eye level, and bring it out between
the columns at the level of the top of the eye. Repeat one more time. In the resulting loop we
knit 3 sc, 6 pdc.

Pull the thread and cut it. Tie the ends of the two threads together and hide
them inside your head with a needle.
 Bang:

We work with Pekhorka “Children's Novelty” yarn.

Take a needle and thread approximately 120 cm long. Counting 10 rows up from the eyes,
insert the needle into the head, as shown in the photo below, and bring it out near the middle
of the right eye.

Go back up, then over the head and down again to the eye, but a couple of
millimeters above the previous stitch. This will round off the edge of the bangs.
In the area of the right eyebrow, make stitches at a slight angle. Leave the eyebrow
open. Next, we embroider an even bang to the end of the second eyebrow and round off
the bangs near the ear symmetrically to the right side.

Next we embroider the bangs in the opposite direction, thereby making them thicker.

When the entire bangs are embroidered, tie the ends of the threads together and hide them
inside the head.
 Hair fastening:

Take thick cardboard 18-20 cm wide. Wrap hair yarn around it and cut it
on one side.
Use knots to secure the hair along the bangs. The hook must be inserted from the
doll's face.

Next, attach the hairs to each column along the temple line.
Then attach hair along the nape line to each column. I start attaching in the 6th row
from the edge of the knitting (in the photo the head is turned upside down). The
length of the nape line is approximately from ear to ear. The hook must be inserted
from the top of the head, i.e. top down.

The contour is done, now you need to fill the entire head with hair. To do this, starting from
the back of the head, attach the hair every other row, and in the row every two columns.

Attach the next row of hair in the same way, but in a checkerboard pattern in
relation to the hairs from the previous row.
In this way, attach the hairs to the very top of the head. Attach thicker hair to the
remaining part, but not to every column. The hook must be inserted strictly from
the face so that the hair fits well in the hairstyle.

Pull your hair into a ponytail.

Place your head on the frame.

Pay attention to how deep the frame should go into the head.

Sew the head, catching full loops with the needle.

The doll is ready, all that remains is to decorate and dress it up -

Make rosy cheeks by first covering the doll's body with a towel.

You can find master classes on

outfits for Zlata on my pages on
Instagram and VK.

Thank you for knitting with me!

Instagram: @kseniya_igrushki

VK group:
https://vk.com/kseniya_igrushki