Implementation Manual 7.0 First Revision Draft
Implementation Manual 7.0 First Revision Draft
IMPLEMENTATION OF GOTS
BASED ON THE GLOBAL ORGANIC TEXTILE STANDARD
(GOTS)
VERSION 7.0
REVISION DRAFT 1.0
11.04.2022
www.global-standard.org
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4. QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM ............................................................................................... 45
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INTRODUCTION
This document provides interpretations and clarifications for specific criteria of the Global Organic
Textile Standard (GOTS) and related official reference documents (e.g. Conditions for the Use of
GOTS Signs) approved by the Standards Committee (SC) of the Global Standard gGmbH where the
current wording of the specific criteria could lead to (or already led to) inconsistent, inappropriate or
even incorrect interpretation. It may further contain requirements for the application of the GOTS and
the implementation of the related quality assurance system for Approved Certifiers.
This manual is to be seen as a flexible quality assurance tool of the SC to give advice and clarification
to the GOTS Approved Certifiers and users of the GOTS where felt necessary as it can be updated
short-term, however, it does not deal with revision questions of the current Standard version or even
set any revised criteria.
The interpretations, corrections, and further clarifications as provided with this document are binding
for all GOTS Approved Certifiers and users of the GOTS. Any products already assessed and certified
on the basis of other interpretations which were also plausible with regard to the current wording of the
GOTS retain their assessed/certified status.
The general implementation deadline to comply with a new version of the Standard, this manual or
another official reference document published by the Global Standard gGmbH is 12 months after its
release unless other/specific advice is given.
Note:
In this Manual, the relevant Section of GOTS is quoted to which the interpretations and further
clarifications refer to. Partial wording taken from GOTS is referred to/quoted as “lorem ipsum”. In all
cases, the wording from the Standard is to be considered definitive.
*******
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OFFICIAL INTERPRETATIONS FOR SPECIFIC
CRITERIA OF GOTS, VERSION 7.0
1. PRINCIPLES
1.2. SCOPE AND STRUCTURE
"The final products may include, but are not limited to fibre products, yarns, fabrics, garments, fashion
textile accessories (carried or worn), textile toys, home textiles, mattresses, bedding products as well
as textile personal care products and food contact textiles.”
Interpretation:
• In principle, any product that can be considered a textile fibre product is covered under the
scope of GOTS.
• GOTS does not cover:
o Textile fibre products containing electronic components
o Products made from non-fibre materials such as leather, skin or hide
• A textile fibre product can only be certified and labelled 'organic' or 'made with organic' as a
whole. Products that are certifiable to GOTS as a whole (like textile bags, earbuds, mattresses,
etc.) cannot be considered for certification as a combined product. It is not possible to certify
and label only a part or component of such a product.
• Combined Products: consumer products that are normally not classified as textile fibre
products but containing textile fibre components, such as prams with textile fabrics, bassinets,
car seats or furniture with textile fabric upholstery, may also be certified and labelled
appropriately, ensuring no ambiguity about which component of the entire product is certified,
for example, ‘Combined Product: (name of component) certified to GOTS’.
• Products/components that do not carry specific mention or requirements elsewhere within
GOTS may be considered as Combined Products. It is the certifier’s responsibility to examine
the remaining components regarding their overall compatibility with GOTS philosophy and to
approve suitable labelling of such a product.
“GOTS criteria or the local legal requirements, whichever is higher, shall always be followed.”
Interpretation:
GOTS sets criteria that are stringent yet practical and are relevant in major textile markets. Local or
national legal requirements vary across the world. If the local laws provide higher protection to the
environment or people, they shall be followed. Similarly, where local laws provide lower protection
as compared to GOTS criteria, GOTS criteria would take precedence for the Certified Entities. This
is applicable to all aspects of GOTS criteria, including environment, social, building safety, the
legality of business, and so on.
“GOTS requires Certified Entities to implement six steps due diligence process (as defined in GOTS
Section 3.15 Responsible Business Conduct, Social Compliance, and Due Diligence Management
Systems) concerning issues covered by GOTS Social Criteria, GOTS Environmental Criteria and
Ethical Business Behaviour.”
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Guidance:
• Due diligence is the process Certified Entities should carry out to identify, prevent, mitigate
and account for how they address actual and potential adverse impacts on human rights,
the environment, and ethical business behaviour in their own operations, their supply chain
and other business relationships.
• Due diligence management systems shall be implemented based on OECD Due Diligence
Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the Garment and Footwear Sector, OECD Due
Diligence Guidance for Responsible Business Conduct, and the OECD Guidelines for
Multinational Enterprises.
• Certified Entity is not expected to have a stand-alone management system for each GOTS
Criteria. For example, a Certified Entity may adopt a comprehensive Policy on Responsible
Business Conduct that may incorporate Environmental, Social and Ethical Business
Behaviour Criteria. Alternatively, Certified Entity may implement stand-alone policies
separately covering Social Criteria, Environmental Criteria and Ethical Business Behaviour.
• Certified Entity shall implement a management system that allows to identify, prevent,
mitigate and account for how it addresses its actual and potential adverse impacts.
• Due diligence is conducted against the OECD Guidelines regarding specific adverse
impacts (i.e. harm).
• A Certified Entity is expected to conduct due diligence on its own activities and on its
suppliers across its supply chain and other business relationships.
• Due diligence is an ongoing exercise, recognising that risks of harm may change over time
as the enterprise’s operations and operating context evolve.
Interpretation:
• Adverse impacts can be considered harmful impacts on matters covered by the GOTS
Social and Environmental Criteria, Ethical Business Behaviour (e.g. child labour,
discrimination, hazardous chemicals, etc.).
• Risk refers to the risk of harm to individuals, other organisations and communities in
relation to human rights, labour rights and the environment.
• For specific guidance on the essential characteristics of Due Diligence, see pages 16-19 of
the OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Business Conduct.
Reference:
OECD (2017), OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the
Garment and Footwear Sector
OECD (2018), OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Business Conduct
OECD (2011), OECD Guidelines for Multinational Enterprises, OECD Publishing.
“The Standard sets requirements on working and social conditions that are equivalent to those of
leading social sustainability standards.”
Interpretation:
Considering that the core function of this Standard is verifying and certifying the processing of
certified organic fibres, where a particularly high level of assurance of labour conditions is needed,
applying a compatible specialised social standard or scheme is recommended.
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1.3. SCOPE CERTIFICATE
“Processors, manufacturers, traders and retailers that have demonstrated their ability to comply with the
relevant GOTS criteria in the corresponding certification procedure to an Approved Certifier receive a
GOTS Scope Certificate issued in accordance with the 'Policy and Template for issuing Scope
Certificates (SCs)'. Accordingly, they are considered Certified Entities. Scope Certificates list the
products/product categories that the Certified Entities can offer in compliance with the Standard as well
as the processing, manufacturing, and trading activities that are qualified under the scope of certification.
Subcontractors and their relevant processing and manufacturing steps become listed on the Scope
Certificate of the Certified Entity assigning the certification.”
Interpretation:
Detailed mandatory instructions with regard to policy, layout, format and text for issuing SCs are
provided in the 'Policy for the Issuance of Scope Certificates' document that is available on the
GOTS website. Approved Certifiers are responsible for issuing SCs for Certified Entities, with
corresponding information such as product categories that Certified Entities can offer in compliance
with GOTS as well as processing steps and activities that are qualified for GOTS certification. The
entire list of GOTS certified suppliers is accessible on the GOTS website.
Reference: www.global-standard.org
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those products which carry GOTS Signs.
• Sellers of GOTS Goods are expected to ensure that they request TCs only for correctly labelled
GOTS Goods via their respective Approved Certifiers.
• Labelling of GOTS Goods shall follow the latest version of ‘Conditions for the Use of GOTS
Signs’.
Further clarifications:
Organic fibre certification, according to JAS, is not possible. (-> per definition of JAS)
Certification of 'in-conversion' (resp. 'in-transition') status is not possible according to USDA NOP.
(-> per definition of NOP)
The USDA policy memorandum "Labeling of Textiles That Contain Organic Ingredients" clarifies
that textile products that are produced in accordance with GOTS may be sold as organic in the U.S.
A valid requirement in this context is that all of the fibres identified as organic in these textiles shall
be produced and certified to the USDA NOP regulations.
Legal requirements (e.g. with regard to organic fibre certification) may also apply in other countries
and shall be respected.
Reference:
USDA policy memorandum "Labelling of Textiles That Contain Organic Ingredients"
Guidance:
ISO 20921:2019 - (Textiles - Determination of stable nitrogen isotope ratio), Annex A (identification
procedure of organic raw cotton fibre by using stable nitrogen isotope ratio) may be used as an
indicator to determine if cotton fibres have been cultivated using compost fertilisers.
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2.2.1. PRODUCTS SOLD, LABELLED OR REPRESENTED AS "ORGANIC" OR
"ORGANIC IN-CONVERSION”
&
2.2.2. PRODUCTS SOLD, LABELLED OR REPRESENTED AS "MADE WITH (X%)
ORGANIC MATERIALS" OR "MADE WITH (X%) ORGANIC IN-CONVERSION
MATERIALS"
“The percentage figures refer to the weight of the fibre content of the products under standard
conditions.”
Interpretation:
Standard atmospheric conditions for testing are as specified in ISO 139 Textiles - Standard
Atmospheres for Conditioning and Testing: 65% relative humidity 4% and 20C 2C
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• Inputs are also prohibited if there is validation that their designated use in textiles leads to any
exceeding residue limits of the parameters listed in Section 2.4.16.
References:
Regulation EC 552/2009
European Chemicals Agency (ECHA), candidate list
Guidance:
• While the Standard prohibits and/or restricts the use of a number of chemical inputs, it is also
recognised by the Standards Committee of GOTS that certain unintended by-products/
contaminants may be found in chemical inputs arising from the synthesis route/manufacturing
complexities of such inputs. GOTS, therefore, recommends the following maximum
contamination limits for chemicals. It is expressly understood that this list and limits contained
therein are dynamic and will be reviewed periodically at each revision of GOTS or if found
necessary due to changes in regulations/research/commercial requirements.
• The limits mentioned in the table below are meant only for unintended by-products or
contaminants and should not be considered as a dilution of GOTS requirements for Chemical
Inputs, as detailed in Section 2.3 of GOTS Version 7.0.
• For many of these parameters, standard test methods may not be available. In such cases,
modified test methods should be used for the detection and quantification of contaminants. As
per GOTS requirements, tests should be carried out by suitably qualified laboratories with
adequate testing experience in the field of textile chemical inputs for these parameters.
See also further interpretation guidelines for certain chemical groups.
Sr. Substance group Contamination Detection
Level
Aromatic and/or halogenated solvents
1,1-Dichloroethane (75-34-3) 1 mg/kg
1,2 dichloroethane (107-06-2) 5 mg/kg
Methylene chloride (75-09-2) 5 mg/kg
Trichloroethylene (79-01-6) 40 mg/kg
Tetrachloroethylene (127-18-4) 5 mg/kg
Tetrachlorotoluene (5216-25-1) 5 mg/kg
Trichlorotoluene / Benzotrichloride (98-07-7) 5 mg/kg
1 5 mg/kg
Benzylchloride / Chloromethyl benzene (100-44-7)
Dyes – 100 mg/kg
Benzene (71-43-2) 50 mg/kg
Aromatic solvents such as xylene, o-Cresol, p-Cresol, m-Cresol 500 mg/kg
NMP (872-50-4)
Dimethylformamide (DMF) (68-12-2) 50 mg/kg
Dimethylacetamide (DMAC) (127-19-5) 50 mg/kg
Toluene (Toluol)( 108-88-3) 10 mg/kg
N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone (872-50-4) 50 mg/kg
Flame Retardants
Tri-o-cresyl phosphate (78-30-8)
Trixylyl phosphate (TXP) (25155-23-1) Individually 50 mg/kg
Trimethyl Phosphate (512-56-1)
Tris(2 chloroethyl)phosphate (TCEP) (115-96-8)
Decabromodiphenyl ether (DecaBDE) (1163-19-5)
Tris(2,3, dibromopropyl) phosphate (TRIS) (126-72-7)
Pentabromodiphenyl ether (PentaBDE) (32534-81-9)
2 Octabromodiphenyl ether (OctaBDE) (32536-52-0)
Bis(2,3 dibromopropyl)phosphate (BIS) (5412-25-9)
Tris(1 aziridinyl)phosphine oxide) (TEPA) (545-55-1)
Individually 250 mg/kg
Polybromobiphenyls (PBB) (67774-32-7, 59536-65-1)
Tetrabromobisphenol A (TBBPA) (79-94-7)
Hexabromocyclodecane (HBCD) (25637-99-4)
2,2 bis(bromomethyl) 1,3 propanediol (BBMP) (3296-90-0)
Hexabromocyclododecane (HBCDD) (3194-55-6)
2-Ethylhexyl-2,3,4,5-tetrabromobenzoate (TBB) (183658-27-7)
Bis(2-ethylhexyl)-3,4,5,6-tetrabromophthala
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te (TBPH) (26040-51-7)
Isopropylated triphenyl phosphate (IPTPP) (68937-41-7)
Tris(1-chloro-2-propyl) phosphate (TCPP) (13674-84-5)
Tris(1,3-dichloro-2-propyl) phosphate (TDCPP) (13674-87-8)
Triphenyl phosphate (TPP) (115-86-6)
Bis(chloromethyl) propane-1,3-diyltetrakis (2-chloroethyl) bisphosphate (V6)
(38051-10-4)
Antimony (7440-36-0)
Antimony trioxide (1309-64-4)
Boric Acid (10043-35-3, 11113-50-1)
Decabromodiphenyl (DecaBB) (13654-09-6)
Dibromobiphenyls (DiBB) (multiple)
Dibromopropylether (21850-44-2)
Heptabromodiphenyl ether (HeptaBDE) (68928-80-3)
Hexabromodiphenyl ether (HexaBDE) (36483-60-0)
Monobromobiphenyls (MonoBB) (Multiple)
Monobromobiphenyl ethers (MonoBDEs) (Multiple)
Nonabromobiphenyls (NonaBB) (Multiple)
Nonabromodiphenyl ether (NonaBDE) (63936-56-1)
Octabromobiphenyls (OctaBB) (Multiple)
Polybromobiphenyls (Polybrominated biphenyls) / Polybrobiphenyle (Polybromierte
Biphenyle) (PBBs) (59536-65-1)
Tetrabromodiphenyl ether (TetraBDE) (40088-47-9)
Tribromodiphenyl ethers (TriBDEs) (Multiple)
Triethylenephosphoramide (TEPA) (545-55-1)
Biboron trioxide (1303-86-2)
Disodium octaborate (12008-41-2)
Disodium tetraborate, anhydrous (1303-96-4, 1303-43-4)
Tetraboron disodium heptaoxide, hydrate (12267-73-1)
1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluorooctylacrylate (6:2 FTA) (17527-29-6)
1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluorodecylacrylate (8:2 FTA) (27905-45-9)
1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluorododecylacrylate (10:2 FTA) (17741-60-5)
Chlorinated Benzenes and Toluenes
1,2-dichlorobenzene (95-50-1) 500 mg/kg
All isomers of tri-, tetra- chlorotoluenes 10 mg/kg
3
Other isomers of
mono-,di- ,tri-,tetra-,penta- and hexa- chlorobenzene and Sum: 200 mg/kg
mono-,di-, and penta, chlorotoluene
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Monomethyltin compounds (MMT) (Multiple) 5 mg/kg
Dipropyltin compounds (DPT) (Multiple) 5 mg/kg
Dibutyltin dichloride (DBTC) (Multiple) 5 mg/kg
Tripropyltin compounds (TPT) (Multiple) 5mg/kg
Tetraethyltin compounds (TeET) (Multiple) 5 mg/kg
Tetrabutyltin compounds (TeBT) (Multiple) 5 mg/kg
Tetraoctyltin compounds (TeOT) (Multiple) 5 mg/kg
Tricyclohexyltin (TCyHT) (Multiple) 5 mg/kg
Tricyclohexyltin hydroxide (1321-70-5) 5 mg/kg
Bis(tributyltin)trioxide (TBTO) (56-35-9) 5 mg/kg
Phthalates
Diethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP) (117-81-7)
Bis(2-methoxyethyl) phthalate (DMEP) (117-82-8)
Di-n-octyl phthalate (DNOP) (117-84-0)
Diisodecyl phthalate (DIDP) (26761-40-0)
Diisononyl phthalate (DINP) (28553-12-0)
Di-n-hexyl phthalate (DnHP) (84-75-3)
Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) (84-74-2)
Benzylbutyl phthalate (BBP) (85-68-7)
12 Di-n-nonylphthalate (DNP) (84-76-4) Sum: 250 mg/kg
Diethyl phthalate (DEP) (84-66-2)
Di-n-propyl phthalate (DPrP) (131-16-8)
Di-isobutyl phthalate (DIBP) (84-69-5)
Di cyclohexylphthalate (DCHP) (84-61-7)
Di-iso-octyl phthalate (DIOP)(27554-26-3)
Di-C7-11 branched and linear alkylphthalates (DHNUP) (68515-42-4)
Di-C6-8 branched alkylphthalates (DIHP) (71888-89-6)
Di-iso-pentyl phthalate (DIPP) (605-50-5)
Di-n-pentyl phthalate (DnPP) (131-18-0)
PAH Sum: 200 mg/kg
Benzo[a]pyrene (BaP) (50-32-8) 20 mg/kg
Anthracene (120-12-7)
Pyrene (129-00-0)
Ben-zo[g,h,i]perylene (191-24-2)
Benzo(e)pyrene (192-97-2)
Indeno[1,2,3-cd]pyrene (193-39-5)
Benzo(j)fluoranthene (205-82-3)
Benzo[b]fluoranthene (205-99-2)
13 Fluoranthene (206-44-0)
Benzo[k]fluoranthene (207-08-9) Sum: 200 mg/kg
Acenaphthylene (208-96-8)
Chrysene (218-01-9)
Dibenz[a,h]anthracene (53-70-3)
Benzo[a]anthracene (56-55-3)
Acenaphthene (83-32-9)
Phenanthrene 85-01-8)
Fluorene (86-73-7)
Naphthalene (91-20-3)
Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS)
14 Perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) and related substances Sum: 2 mg/kg
Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and related substances 2 mg/kg
Chlorinated Paraffins
15 Short Chain Chlorinated Paraffins (SCCP) (C10 C13) 50 mg/kg
Medium-Chain Chlorinated Paraffins (MCCPs) (C14-17) 500 mg/kg
Glycol Derivatives
Bis(2-methoxyethyl)-ether (111-96-6) 50 mg/kg
2-ethoxyethanol (110-80-5) 50 mg/kg
2-ethoxyethyl acetate (111-15-9) 50 mg/kg
16 Ethylene glycol dimethyl ether (110-71-4) 50 mg/kg
2-methoxyethanol (109-86-4) 50 mg/kg
2-methoxyethylacetate (110-49-6) 50 mg/kg
2-methoxypropylacetate (70657-70-4) 50 mg/kg
Triethylene glycol dimethyl ether (112-49-2) 50 mg/kg
2-Methoxy-1-propanol (1589-47-5) 50 mg/kg
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Specification:
As a specific requirement, any substance is prohibited:
• If listed in the candidate list in annex 1 of the EU report towards the establishment of a priority
list of substances for further evaluation of their role in endocrine disruption in:
Category 1: substances for which evidence of endocrine disrupting activity in at least one
species using intact animals is available or
Category 2: substances for which at least some in vitro evidence of biological activity related to
endocrine disruption is available or
• If other scientific evidence is available that identifies the substance as an endocrine disruptor as
per the definition provided in Section 7 of GOTS.
The EU Commission is currently working on a new concept for the assessment of substances
because of their endocrine-disrupting properties, and the EU Joint Research Centre on a
corresponding database of substances. As soon as these documents are published, this
specification will be reviewed and may be updated accordingly.
Reference:
Annex 1 of the EU report towards the establishment of a priority list of substances for further
evaluation of their role in endocrine disruption:
http://ec.europa.eu/environment/archives/docum/pdf/bkh_annex_01.pdf
Further Guidance for Inputs (e.g. azo dyes and pigments) releasing carcinogenic arylamine compounds
(MAK III, category 1,2,3,4):
Azo dye compounds MAK III, category 1 (with CAS no):
4-Aminobiphenyl (92-67-1) 2-Naphthylamine (91-59-8)
Benzidine (92-87-5) o-Toluidine (95-53-4)
4-Chloro-o-toluidine (95-69-2)
Azo dye compounds MAK III, category 2 (with CAS no):
o-Aminoazotoluene ( 97-56-3) 4,4’-Methylene-bis-(2-chloroaniline) (101-14-4)
2-Amino-4-nitrotoluene (99-55-8) 4,4’-Oxydianiline (101-80-4)
p-Chloroaniline (106-47-8) 4,4’-Thiodianiline (139-65-1)
2,4-Diaminoanisole (615-05-4) 2,4-Toluylendiamine (95-80-7)
4,4’-Diaminobiphenylmethane (101-77-9) 2,4,5-Trimethylaniline (137-17-7)
3,3’-Dichlorobenzidine (91-94-1) o-Anisidine (90-04-0)
3,3’-Dimethoxybenzidine (119-90-4) 2,4-Xylidine (95-68-1)
3,3’-Dimethylbenzidine (119-93-7) 2,6-Xylidine (87-62-7)
3,3’-Dimethyl-4,4’-diaminobiphenylmethane (838-88-0) 4-Aminoazobenzene (60-09-3)
p-Cresidine (120-71-8)
Azo dye compounds MAK III, category 3 (with CAS no):
5-Chloro-2-methylaniline (95-79-4) p-phenylenediamine (106-50-3)
N,N-Dimethylaniline (121-69-7)
Azo dye compounds MAK III, category 4 (with CAS no):
Aniline (62-53-3)
Prohibited azo pigments that may release carcinogenic amine compounds (*or generate the same in a
chemical follow-up reaction) include:
C.I. Pigment Red 8 C.I. Pigment Red 22 C.I. Pigment Red 23* C.I. Pigment Red 38
Reference:
C.I. Numbers as mentioned in The Colour Index™ published online by the Society of Dyers and Colourists and
American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists.
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C.I. Acid Red 26 C.I. Direct Red 28 C.I. Basic Red 9 C.I. Acid Violet 49
Interpretation:
• Inputs with a total content of organic halogens >1% can only be approved if it is plausible that
the permanent AOX content is < 1%.
• For the definition of “permanent AOX” refer to Section 7 in GOTS
Interpretation:
• Use of in-can preservatives is allowed in preparations when the preparation itself satisfies
requirements of toxicity.
• In-can preservatives can be declared by the chemical input formulator/trader to their
Certification Body during the chemical input approval process.
• If an in-can preservative fails to meet any other requirement of GOTS prior to the input
approval, the Certification Body shall notify GOTS for a common decision.
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References:
Globally Harmonized System of Classification and Labelling of Chemicals (GHS) as published by
the United Nations, 3rd revision 2009 (tables containing hazard statements with H-codes as well
as corresponding hazard classes and categories are provided in annex 3)
Regulation EC 1272/2008
Further relevant Directives for classification and assessment of preparations:
Directive 2006/8/EC
Classification & Labelling Inventory for substances registered or notified in the EU
“1) Performing new animal tests to determine unknown LD50 values in the course of the GOTS assessment
procedure for inputs (refer to Section 2.3.3) is prohibited. Instead, alternative methods (e.g. Acute Toxicity
Estimates (ATE); conclusions on an analogy from similar products; validated structure-activity relationships; the
calculation from available data of substances contained; expert judgment; in vitro tests) shall be used to
determine unknown values.
3)
Performing new fish and daphnia tests to determine unknown LC50 / EC50 values in the course of the GOTS
assessment procedure for inputs is prohibited. Instead, alternative methods such as Acute Toxicity Estimates
(ATE); validated structure-activity relationships; conclusion on an analogy from similar products; the calculation
from available data of substances contained; fish egg test (embryo toxicity test (FET)); in vitro test; IC50 algae;
OECD 201 [72hr] shall be used to determine unknown values.”
Interpretation:
In case new animal/fish tests for input would have been carried out in a legally binding registration
procedure (such as REACH), it shall be demonstrated that these tests were mandatory, and no
alternative method would have been accepted. In other ways and in all other cases of new
animal/fish tests performed, the corresponding input shall not be approved for GOTS.
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the SDS is not binding (e.g. AOX, endocrine disruptors, GMO (derived) material or
enzyme, nanoparticles)
o SDS does not contain certain ecological or toxicological information required to assess
compliance with related GOTS criteria
o Tests/methods used to determine certain ecological or toxicological values are not
specified or do not correspond to those listed in the GOTS criteria
o Spot checking on the accuracy of certain ecological or toxicological information
provided on the SDS
o Surveillance of impurities
• For the details of the chemical assessment procedure, “Approval of Textile Chemical Inputs on
the GOTS Positive List (Scope 4)” is accessible on the GOTS website: http://www.global-
standard.org/certification/how-to-get-chemical-inputs-approved.html
• Certifiers who are active in Scope 4 shall make their lists of approved chemical inputs available
to all Approved Certifiers of GOTS. The lists are to be taken as an applicable tool for input
assessment in the GOTS certification scheme by all Approved Certification Bodies.
• Certifiers responsible for the approval of chemical products shall ensure that all approval
decisions are made on the basis of valid SDS, based on knowledge of all relevant endpoints for
each constituent of formulations. Relevant endpoints are, for example, values used for the
formulation of Hazard Statements and/or their GHS equivalents for an individual constituent.
• In case of conflicting decisions (product approved by one that is declined by another certifier),
certifiers are requested to achieve consistent assessment by sharing their proofs of
assessment. If this fails in the last instance, the responsible person for Standards Development
& Quality Assurance / Standards Committee of the Global Standard gGmbH decides after
screening the provided technical information on the chemicals in question.
• The approval status of a chemical input, in other words, the validity of an LoA, shall last for 3
years or until a new version of GOTS comes into force, whichever is earlier. Based on the risk
assessment of the Scope 4 auditor, the validity period may be shorter than 3 years. However,
the Additives Registration Fee shall be paid once for the validity period of the current Standard
version
• Basic chemicals (such as salt, alkali, acid, etc.) used do not need to be released on Letters of
Approval.
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Interpretation:
• Product Stewardship practices may include but are not limited to a documented plan defining
minimum key tasks for personnel involved and a general flow of the chemical inputs in terms of
product development, raw material, process control of various stages of production, control of
intermediates, packaging, storage & distribution, marketing and sales, use & end-of-life cycle.
• As a minimum, chemical formulators shall implement the following quality assurance practices:
o Risk assessment of raw materials and intermediates for consistency and presence of
hazardous substances.
o Testing plan for raw materials with defined intervals, test methods and approval criteria.
o Risk assessment of preparations for consistency and presence of unavoidable contaminants.
o Testing plan for formulations and preparations with defined intervals and approval criteria.
o Process control during formulation for consistent quality and hazardous substances.
o Quality assurance practices in formulation of preparations.
o Staff training for risk assessment.
o Adequate evaluation of preparations for the release of hazardous substances during intended
use.
o Application of formulations and preparation on textile substrate under controlled conditions
set by formulators, verifying conformance with Section 2.4.16.
Implementation:
The requirements in this section shall be implemented at subcontractors' premises by 01 March
2025.
“GOTS criteria in the following sections shall be included in the audit of formulators and their
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subcontractors (if any) and shall be applicable to the entire site for the whole year.
• Section 2.4.11
• Section 2.4.12, (see Implementation Manual for COD requirements)
• Section 3.6”
Guidance:
(Referring to the requirements set in Section 2.4.12)
Wastewater COD values in the case of a chemical formulator shall be below 250 ppm or shall
meet legal requirements, whichever is lower.
2.4.2. SPINNING
“Any paraffin product used shall be fully refined with a limited value for residual oil of 0.5%.”
“Synthetic fibres which are to be dissolved at a later processing stage, are not allowed to be used.”
Interpretation:
• Paraffin is directly applied onto fibres/yarns during production therefore, it shall be considered
as chemical input.
• Prohibited are synthetic fibres (like polyvinyl alcohol (PVA)) which are used for spinning or an
intermediate processing stage and dissolved using water or chemicals at a following
processing step.
• Use of PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) as a backing material for embroidery is prohibited
Guidance:
Analysis of the presence of phosphate cannot be obtained via an analysis of phosphorous using
ICP/MS or similar. Analysis of phosphate should be a direct and conclusive test. Knowledge of the
formulation of the chemical input or an appropriate test method such as Ion Chromatography
adapted from ISO 10304-1 can be considered.
2.4.6. DYEING
&
2.4.7. PRINTING
Parameter Criteria
Selection of dyes and “Prohibited are (disperse) dyes classified as sensitising/ allergenic”
auxiliaries
Guidance:
Specification (disperse dyes classified as sensitizing / allergenic):
The following disperse dyes are prohibited (because of their sensitising potential):
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C.I. Disperse Blue 1 C.I. Disperse Orange 1 C.I. Disperse Violet 93
C.I. Disperse Blue 3 C.I. Disperse Orange 3 C.I. Disperse Yellow 1
C.I. Disperse Blue 7 C.I. Disperse Orange 37 C.I. Disperse Yellow 3
C.I. Disperse Blue 26 C.I. Disperse Orange 76 C.I. Disperse Yellow 9
C.I. Disperse Blue 35 C.I. Disperse Orange 149 C.I. Disperse Yellow 23
C.I. Disperse Blue 102 C.I. Disperse Red 1 C.I. Disperse Yellow 39
C.I. Disperse Blue 106 C.I. Disperse Red 11 C.I. Disperse Yellow 49
C.I. Disperse Blue 124 C.I. Disperse Red 17 C.I. Disperse Violet 1
C.I. Disperse Blue 291 C.I. Disperse Brown 1 C.I. Disperse Orange 59
C.I. Disperse Yellow 54
Reference:
C.I. Numbers as mentioned in The Colour Index™ published online by the Society of Dyers
and Colourists and the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists.
Parameter Criteria
Selection of dyes and … The use of natural dyes and auxiliaries that are derived from a
auxiliaries threatened species listed on the Red List of the IUCN is prohibited.
Parameter Criteria
Selection of dyes and … Prohibited are colourants classified as carcinogenic or suspected
auxiliaries carcinogenic (H350 / H351).
Reference:
IARC monographs
ECHA Restriction reports
Annex VI (Harmonized Classification) of the CLP regulation
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Interpretation:
• Conventional cotton is not permitted as an additional fibre material at any level, which means
that all cotton fibres that can be used in a GOTS Good shall be either organic or organic in-
conversion.
• Conventionally grown cotton fibre, even if it is non-GMO or recycled, is not permitted as
additional fibre.
• Mechanically recycled organic cotton fibre which comes from GOTS Certified Entities as pre-
consumer waste, can be mixed with virgin organic and virgin organic in-conversion cotton in a
product. This is allowed since mechanical recycling would not cause any intrinsic difference in
fibre’s organic status.
• Mohair, a fibre derived from the angora goat, is permitted as an additional fibre, provided it
satisfies conditions given in Sections 2.4.10.1 and 2.4.17
• Virgin polyester is not permitted as an additional fibre material. All polyester fibres blended in a
GOTS Good, under Section 2.2.1 and 2.2.2, shall be (thermo-mechanically or chemically)
recycled from pre-or post-consumer waste
• Animal fibres that are certified to a standard that includes animal welfare principles are
encouraged to be used as additional fibre materials
• Wool fibres used in GOTS Goods that come under Sections 2.1, 2.2 and 2.4.10.1 of GOTS
shall come from mulesing-free sources. Current adequate proof for a non-mulesed verification
of wool by Approved Certifiers shall include:
o Wool fibre that is coming from a region where mulesing is prohibited or not
practised IFOAM Family of Standards accredited organic certification in this region
strictly excludes mulesing
o If any of the above conditions is not fulfilled, then an additional certification is
required to provide adequate proof for the non-mulesed status of the wool. Those
schemes may include (but are not limited to) Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) by
Textile Exchange, ZQ Merino, New Merino etc.
Further Guidance:
• Adequate verification proof for the use of regenerated fibres from certified organic raw materials
is certification of the fibre supplier/manufacturer and the fibre material to the Organic Content
Standard (OCS from Textile Exchange).
• Recognised certification programs verifying compliance with sustainable forestry management
principles are Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), Programme for the Endorsement of Forest
Certification Schemes (PEFC) and Rainforest Alliance.
• Adequate verification proof for the use of recycled synthetic fibres is certification of the fibre
supplier/manufacturer and the fibre material to the Recycled Claim Standard (RCS from Textile
Exchange), the Global Recycle Standard (GRS from Textile Exchange), Recycled Content
Standard (from Scientific Certification Systems).
• Samples for possible material compositions according to GOTS 6.0 include:
o 70% organic cotton, 30% lyocell from organic sources
o 70% organic cotton, 25% recycled polyamide, 5% polyurethane
• Samples for material compositions no longer possible according to GOTS 6.0 include:
o 70% organic cotton, 30% rayon from organic bamboo
o Socks made of 70% organic cotton, 25% (virgin) polyamide, 5 % polyurethane
References:
Content Claim Standard (CCS, Textile Exchange)
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Organic Content Standard (OCS, Textile Exchange)
Global Recycle Standard (GRS, Textile Exchange)
Recycled Claim Standard (RCS, Textile Exchange)
Recycled Content Standard (Scientific Certification Systems)
Forest Stewardship Council (FSC)
Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification Schemes (PEFC)
Responsible Wool Standard (RWS, Textile Exchange)
Rainforest Alliance
“Latex foam used in mattresses shall be made from certified organic or organic in-conversion latex or
from latex certified according to a program that verifies compliance with sustainable forestry
management principles”
Interpretation:
• Adequate verification proof for organic latex can be the Global Organic Latex Standard (GOLS).
• Recognised certification programs verifying compliance with sustainable forestry management
principles are Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), Programme for the Endorsement of Forest
Certification Schemes (PEFC) and Rainforest Alliance.
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safe chemical storage, labelling, use of protective equipment for anyone that handles
chemicals.
• Certified Entities should identify and use substitutes for chemicals on the MRSL based on
scientific data and internationally accepted methodology for assessing hazards. They may also
use existing credible substitution lists for any chemicals they need to use for production.
Further reference: OECD Environmental Risk Assessment Toolkit
“Responsible person(s) for the environment and chemical management related duties”
Interpretation:
Person(s) responsible for environmental policy and chemical management duties shall be
competent, appropriately trained and shall have adequate resources made available to them so as
to discharge duties.
“…Certified Entities are required to collect information on sources of greenhouse gas emissions
(GHG) within their own operations and identify means for reduction for each source…”
Guidance:
For a list of fluorinated greenhouse gases refer to Regulation (EU) No 517/2014
Further Guidance:
• GOTS supports all initiatives that are aimed at arresting and reversing Climate Change, an
integral part of the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). It is incumbent on
GOTS Certified Entities to take steps towards meeting these goals, and as a preliminary first
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step, it is required that Certified Entities identify sources of GHG emissions within their own
operations. These may include activities owned or controlled by the enterprise that releases
emissions straight to the atmosphere (i.e. direct emissions), or the enterprise’s consumption of
purchased electricity, heat, steam and cooling (i.e. indirect energy emissions).
• Certified Entities are required to reduce identified GHG emissions to the extent possible over
time. They may take a risk-based approach to address their GHG emissions by focusing their
resources where GHG emissions are greatest (for example, fossil fuel based activities). While
GOTS currently does not set time or emission limits within its supply chain, it encourages all
Certified Entities to evaluate their operations and work towards such goals. A future perspective
of Certified Entities should be to extend this evaluation beyond their own operation and also
consider GHG emissions released at further levels, such as product related emissions and
supply chain emissions.
References:
Additional information to reduce GHG emissions: OECD Due Diligence Guidance for
Responsible Supply Chains in the Garment and Footwear Sector, Table 13, p.173.
Additional information on GHGs: https://www.epa.gov/ghgemissions
Suggested reading: https://ourworldindata.org/co2-and-other-greenhouse-gas-emissions
"The applicable national and local legal requirements for wastewater treatment including limit values
with regard to pH, temperature, TOC, BOD, COD, colour removal, residues of (chemical) pollutants
and discharge routes shall be fulfilled."
Interpretation:
• Within the GOTS certification procedures, compliance with the national and local legal
requirements shall be checked on the basis of the corresponding official environmental permit
and through appropriate verification means. In specific, verification shall assure that:
o The quality of discharged wastewater continuously complies with all requirements and limits
defined in the environmental permit.
o If the wastewater is treated (partly) in an external plant, the wet processor has a valid
delivery contract with the operator of the external treatment plant while
• The contract indicates the parameters and the related limits which shall be respected
before discharging the wastewater to the receiving treatment plant
• The operator of the external plant is legally authorised for this operation and
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continuously complies with the national and local legal requirements and limits
• The quantity of wastewater to be treated does not exceed the capacity of the on-site treatment
plant and/or the maximum quantity indicated in the delivery contract
• The indicated quantity to be treated matches the actual processing water quantity used and
discharged
“Minimum criteria shall comply with the local/national law if GOTS requirements are lower.”
Interpretation:
If the local/national legal requirements are stricter than GOTS criteria, local laws shall be followed
and vice-versa.
"Wastewater discharges to the environment shall not exceed 20 g COD/kg of processed textile
(output). For scouring greasy wool, an exceptional limit of 45 g COD/kg applies."
Interpretation:
• Criteria in this Section relate to compliance requirements for the entire facility.
• The requirement shall be measured downstream of an internal, on-site, wastewater treatment
plant and/or an external, off-site, e.g., municipal, wastewater treatment plant receiving
wastewater from these wet processing sites.
• The applicable test method for COD determination is ISO 6060.
• The applicable calculation method in this context is as follows:
(𝑪 ÷ 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎) × (𝑽 × 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎) ÷ (𝑾 × 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎) = ⋯ 𝒈 𝑪𝑶𝑫/𝒌𝒈
Where;
C (mg/l) is COD concentration in water discharged to the environment after treatment
V (m3) is the volume of water discharged in the calculation period
W (ton) is the weight of textile output in tonnage in the calculation period
• COD requirements for GOTS are measured in g/kg of processed output. Typical COD test
reports contain COD values in g/l of effluent/discharge. Inspectors will need to calculate the
COD in g/kg of processed output based on the calculation given above in these cases.
Reference:
ISO 6060 Water quality - Determination of the chemical oxygen demand
“Wastewater analyses shall be performed and documented periodically at normal operating capacity.”
Guidance:
• Treated wastewater shall include the following test parameters and limits:
o AOX with a limit of 5 mg/l
o Heavy Metal residues as per the following table
Heavy Metal CAS No. Limit (mg/l)
Lead 7439-92-1 100
Mercury 7439-97-6 10
Cadmium 7440-43-9 100
Chromium VI 18540-29-9 50
Total Chromium 7440-47-3 200
Arsenic 7440-38-2 50
Copper 7440-50-8 1000
Nickel 7440-02-0 200
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Antimony 7440-36-0 100
Cobalt 7440-48-4 50
Zinc 7440-66-6 5000
Manganese 7439-96-5 5000
Further Guidance:
While GOTS requires that all applicable national and local legal environmental requirements be
followed for discharged wastewater, GOTS encourages licensees to act beyond the mandatory
requirements stated in GOTS Version 7.0 and voluntarily implement global best practices for their
processing units. ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) can be
consulted when it comes to wastewater discharge.
Reference: ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines
"Any paper or cardboard used in packaging material for the retail trade of GOTS Goods (incl. labelling
items such as hangtags, swing tags) shall be recycled from pre- or post-consumer waste or certified
according to a program that verifies compliance with sustainable forestry management principles.”
Interpretation:
• As there is currently no widespread and globally applicable certification system for recycled
paper/cardboard, for the time being, a certification is currently not mandatory to prove the use of
recycled paper/cardboard (from pre- or post-consumer waste).
• As a minimum, a ‘declaration’ issued by the producer/trader of the paper/cardboard that it is
100% recycled from pre- or post-consumer waste shall be available. Examples of certified
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recycled material are GRS/RCS Standard.
• Recognised certification programs verifying compliance with sustainable forestry management
principles are Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), Programme for the Endorsement of Forest
Certification Schemes (PEFC) and Rainforest Alliance.
• Further relevant certification programs/verification proofs may be recognised as equivalent in
future. In such case, the decision will be published by the Global Standard gGmbH (through an
updated issue of this manual or first on the corresponding website http://www.global-
standard.org/the-standard/manual-for-implementation.html ).
” Textile fibre materials used for packaging or for strings of hangtags shall meet one of the following
criteria:
• Accepted additional fibres, see Section 2.4.10.1 (without limitation on fibre percentages),
which meet the residue limit values in Section 2.4.17.”
Interpretation:
• Additional fibres in Section 2.4.10.1 can be used for textile packaging materials or strings for the
hangtags without restriction on fiber percentage. For example:
o 100% lyocell fibre and 100% recycled polyester can be used.
o Virgin polyester or conventional cotton or acrylic fibres cannot be used.
“Certified Entities purchasing organic fibres shall receive and maintain Scope Certificates and/or
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Transaction Certificates (where applicable) of the producer and trader(s) (if applicable) for the Organic
Production Standard for the whole quantity purchased.”
Interpretation:
For the purposes of traceability and operation of the Centralised Database System (under
development), information about the first certified organic fibre input is required to be collected and
maintained by the Certified Entity. Data would need to be maintained in a suitable document, such
as a spreadsheet, in a prescribed format. The format is being developed in harmonisation with
Textile Exchange and will contain details of the Scope Certificate(s) of fibre producer(s) / producer
group(s) along with the quantity of purchased fibre(s).
“Certified Entities shall collect, collate and share non-commercial information related to impact
measurement if and as required by GOTS…”
Interpretation:
There will be no mandatory requirement for commercially sensitive data such as financial, business,
or technical information to be shared by Certified Entities. Information requested will only be related
to measuring public-facing impact. Examples of such information are the number and break-up of
employees, energy sources, water sources etc.
Interpretation:
The following table provides alternate acceptable test methods to the methods as provided for in
GOTS. The criteria (fastness resp. dimensional change levels) are the same as for the respective
main test method:
Parameters Main test method Alternate acceptable test methods
Rubbing fastness ISO 105 X12 AATCC 8, DIN 54021, JIS L0849
Perspiration fastness, alkaline and
ISO 105 E04 AATCC 15, DIN 54020, JIS L0848
acidic
Light fastness ISO 105 B02 AATCC 16 option 3, DIN 54004, JIS L0843
AATCC 135 (fabrics) and 150 (garments),
Dimensional change ISO 6330
DIN 53920, JIS L1018
Saliva Fastness BVL B 82.92.3 DIN 53160-1
Washing fastness when washed at 40 AATCC 61 option 3A (at 140 °F), DIN EN
ISO 105 C06 A1M
°C 20105-C03, JIS L0844
Further Guidance:
• Wherever possible, GOTS Goods should support decreasing environmental impacts at the use
phase. Therefore,
o GOTS Goods care labels, wherever applicable, shall carry environmentally friendly washing
instructions, such as wash at room temperature, use of liquid detergent, no use of bleach,
line or flat dry, low or no iron, no dry cleaning, etc.
o It is recommended that sellers of GOTS Goods inform end-users about end-of-life options.
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2.4.16. LIMIT VALUES FOR RESIDUES IN GOTS GOODS
&
2.4.17. LIMIT VALUES FOR RESIDUES IN ADDITIONAL FIBRE MATERIALS
AND ACCESSORIES
Interpretation:
• In order to demonstrate compliance of (semi/finished) products with the test parameters in
Section 2.4.17 only;
o Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex®, Class 1 certificates or an equivalent, are considered adequate
proof for additional fibres or accessories used in textiles for babies and textile personal care
products.
o Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex®, Class 2 certificates or an equivalent, are considered adequate
proof for additional fibres or accessories used for all other GOTS Goods.
Reference: STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®
All natural fibres (except < 0.5 mg/kg § 64 LFGB L 00.00-34 (GC/MS);
shorn wool) § 64 LFGB L 00.00-114 (LC/MS/MS)
Shorn wool < 1.0 mg/kg
Interpretation:
Pesticides relevant for testing in vegetable and animal fibres are listed below:
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Captafol 2425-06-1 x
Carbaryl 63-25-2 x x
Carbosulfan 55285-14-8 x
Clethodim 99129-21-2 x
Chlordane 57-74-9 x
Chlordimeform 6164-98-3 x
Chlorpyrifos-ethyl 2921-88-2 x x
Chlorpyrifos-methyl 5598-13-0 x x
Chlorfenapyr 122453-73-0 x
Chlorfenvinphos 470-90-6 x x
Chlorfluazuron 71422-67-8 x
Coumaphos 56-72-4 x x
Cyfluthrin 68359-37-5 x x
Cyhalothrin 91465-08-6 x x
Cyclanilide 113136-77-9 x
Cypermethrin 52315-07-8 X x
DDD (op- and pp-) 53-19-0, 72-54-8 x x
DDE (op- and pp-) 3424-82-6, 72-55-9 x x
DDT, o,p- 789-02-6 x x
DDT, p,p- 50-29-3 x x
DEF/ 2,4 Dichlorodiphenyldichloroethane 78-48-8 x
Deltamethrin 52918-63-5 x x
Diafenthiuron 80060-09-9 x
Diazinon 333-41-5 x x
Dichlofenthion 97-17-6 x
Dichlorprop 120-36-2 x
Dichlorvos 62-73-7 x x
Dicrotophos l 141-66-2 x
Dieldrin 60-57-1 x x
Diflubenzuron 35367-38-5 x
Dimethoate 60-51-5 x x
Dinoseb and salts 88-85-7 x
Diuron 330-54-1 x
Empenthrin 54406-48-3 x
Endosulfansulfate 1031-07-8 x x
Endrin 72-20-8 x x
Esfenvalerate 66230-04-4 x x
Ethion 563-12-2 x x
Fenchlorphos 299-84-3 x x
Fenitrothion 122-14-5 x x
Fenthion 55-38-9 x
Fenpropathrin 39515-41-8 x
Fenvalerate 51630-58-1 x x
Fipronil 120068-37-3 x
Flumethrin 69770-45-2 x
Glyphosate 1071-83-6 x
Heptachlor 76-44-8 x
Heptachlor epoxide 1024-57-3 x
Hexachlorobenzen (HCB) 118-74-1 x
Hexachlorocyclohexane - a-Lindane 319-84-6 x
Hexachlorocyclohexane - b-Lindane 319-85-7 x
Hexachlorocyclohexane - d-Lindane 319-86-8 x
Imidacloprid 138261-41-3 x
Lindane 58-89-9 x x
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Lufenuron 103055-07-8 x
Malathion 121-75-5 x x
MCPA 94-74-6 x
MCPB 94-81-5 x
Mecoprop 93-65-2 x
Metolachlor 51218-45-2 x
Methomyl 16752-77-5 x
Mevinphos 7786-34-7 x
Methamidophos 10265-92-6 x
Methoxychlor 72-43-5 x x
Mirex 2385-85-5 x
Monocrotophos 6923-22-4 x
Parathion-ethyl 56-38-2 x x
Parathion-methyl 298-00-0 X X
Pendimethalin 40487-42-1 X
PCP/ Pentachlorophenol 87-86-5 X X
Permethrin 52645-53-1 X X
Perthane 72-56-0 X
Phosmet 732-11-6 X
Phoxim / Baythion 14816-18-3 X
Pirimiphos-ethyl 23505-41-1 X X
Pirimiphos-methyl 29232-93-7 X
Profenophos 41198-08-7 X
Prometryn 7287-19-6 X
Pymetrozine 123312-89-0 X
Propetamphos 31218-83-4 X
Pyrethrum 8003-34-7 X X
Quinalphos 13593-03-8 X
Quintozine 82-68-8 X
Teflubenzuron 83121-18-0 X
Thiamethoxam 153719-23-4 X
Tetrachlorvinphos 22350-76-1 X
Toxaphene 8001-35-2 X
Telodrin 297-78-9 X
Strobane 8001-50-1 X
Transfluthrin 118712-89-3 X
Trifluralin 1582-09-8 X
Triflumuron 64628-44-0 X
Thiodicarb 59669-26-0 X
Thidiazuron 51707-55-2 X
Tolclofos-methyl 57018-04-9 X
Trifloxysulfuron-sodium 199119-58-9 X
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3. SOCIAL CRITERIA
3.2. HUMAN RIGHTS SHALL BE RESPECTED
“3.2.1 Certified Entities shall respect Human Rights.”
Interpretation:
In all cases and irrespective of the country or specific context of the Certified Entity’s operations,
reference should be made to the internationally recognised human rights expressed in the
International Bill of Human Rights.
• The International Bill of Human Rights consists of:
▪ the Universal Declaration of Human Rights,
▪ the International Covenant on Economic, Social and Cultural Rights, and
▪ the International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights and its two Optional Protocols.
The Certified Entity shall commit to upholding the United Nations’ Guiding Principles on Business
and Human Rights.
Reference:
UN General Assembly, Universal Declaration of Human Rights, 10 December 1948
UN General Assembly, International Covenant on Economic, Social and Cultural Rights, 16
December 1966
UN General Assembly, International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights, 16 December
1966
UN. 2011. Guiding principles on business and human rights: implementing the United
Nations "Protect, Respect and Remedy" framework.
Certified Entity shall follow relevant OECD guidance, including the OECD Guidelines for
Multinational Enterprises and the OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in
the Garment and Footwear Sector.
Reference:
OECD (2011), OECD Guidelines for Multinational Enterprises, OECD Publishing
OECD(2018), OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the Garment
and Footwear Sector, OECD Publishing, Paris
Certified Entities shall respect and comply with the Declaration on Fundamental Principles and
Rights at Work of the International Labour Organisation (ILO) and other relevant ILO Conventions.
To ensure proper implementation of GOTS Social Criteria, the corresponding ILO Conventions shall
be observed and implemented:
Declaration on Fundamental Principles and Rights at Work of the International Labour
Organisation (ILO).
Forced Labour:
C029 - Forced Labour Convention, 1930 (No. 29)
C105 - Abolition of Forced Labour Convention, 1957 (No. 105)
Child labour:
C138 - Minimum Age Convention, 1973 (No. 138)
C182 - Worst Forms of Child Labour Convention, 1999 (No. 182)
R190 - Worst Forms of Child Labour Recommendation, 1999 (No. 190)
Freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining are respected:
C087 - Freedom of Association and Protection of the Right to Organise Convention, 1948
(No. 87)
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C098 - Right to Organise and Collective Bargaining Convention, 1949 (No. 98)
C135 - Workers' Representatives Convention, 1971 (No. 135)
C154 - Collective Bargaining Convention, 1981 (No. 154)
Discrimination and Harassment:
C100 - Equal Remuneration Convention, 1951 (No. 100)
C111 - Discrimination (Employment and Occupation) Convention, 1958 (No. 111)
C183 - Maternity Protection Convention, 2000 (No. 183)
C190 - Violence and Harassment Convention, 2019 (No. 190)
Gender Equality:
C111 - Discrimination (Employment and Occupation) Convention, 1958 (No. 111)
C100 - Equal Remuneration Convention, 1951 (No. 100)
C156 - Workers with Family Responsibilities Convention, 1981 (No. 156)
C183 - Maternity Protection Convention, 2000 (No. 183)
Occupational Health and Safety (OHS):
C155 - Occupational Safety and Health Convention, 1981 (No. 155)
Remuneration and Assessment of Living Wage Gap:
C095 - Protection of Wages Convention, 1949 (No. 95)
C131 - Minimum Wage Fixing Convention, 1970 (No. 131)
Working time:
C001 - Hours of Work (Industry) Convention, 1919 (No. 1)
C014 - Weekly Rest (Industry) Convention, 1921 (No. 14)
C030 - Hours of Work (Commerce and Offices) Convention, 1930 (No. 30)
C106 - Weekly Rest (Commerce and Offices) Convention, 1957 (No. 106)
No precarious employment is provided:
C158 - Termination of Employment Convention, 1982 (No. 158)
C175 - Part-Time Work Convention, 1994 (No. 175)
C177 - Home Work Convention, 1996 (No. 177)
C181 - Private Employment Agencies Convention, 1997 (No. 181)
Migrant Workers:
C097 - Migration for Employment Convention (Revised), 1949 (No. 97)
C143 - Migrant Workers (Supplementary Provisions) Convention, 1975 (No. 143)
Reference: The conventions mentioned above are published on the official ILO website.
“3.2.2. Certified Entity shall respect the human rights of individuals belonging to specific groups or
populations that require particular attention, including indigenous peoples; women; national or ethnic,
religious and linguistic minorities; children; persons with disabilities; and migrant workers and their
families.”
Interpretation:
In this connection, United Nations instruments have elaborated further on the rights of indigenous
peoples; women; national or ethnic, religious and linguistic minorities; children; persons with
disabilities; and migrant workers and their families.
References:
Indigenous peoples:
UN Declaration on the Rights of Indigenous People, 2007
Women:
UN Convention on the Elimination of All Forms of Discrimination Against Women, 1979
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National or ethnic, religious and linguistic minorities:
UN Declaration on the Rights of Persons Belonging to National or Ethnic, Religious and
Linguistic Minorities, 1992
Children:
Convention on the Rights of the Child,1989
Persons with disabilities:
Convention on the Rights of Persons with Disabilities. 2007
Migrant workers and their families:
International Convention on the Protection of the Rights of All Migrant Workers and Members
of Their Families, 1990
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case, shall not be less than 15 years and, in some countries, 14 years (Article 2 of the ILO C-138).
Age verification:
Certified Entities should verify the age of their employees and should consider the following age
verification techniques as reliable:
▪ medical examination before employment;
▪ multiple written documents and affidavits;
▪ culturally sensitive interviews with employees and applicants who appear to be too young;
▪ end of compulsory schooling certificate for that above minimum age;
▪ school enrolment certificate for those in light work.
Reference:
Checkpoints for Companies – Eliminating and Preventing Child Labour
C138 - Minimum Age Convention, 1973 (No. 138)
C182 - Worst Forms of Child Labour Convention, 1999 (No. 182)
The ILO provides the list of countries that ratified the C-138 and indicates the minimum age
for employment.
Remediation:
If a child below minimum age appears to be employed in the Certified Entity, in that case, the
Certified Entity has to take all appropriate measures to remove the child from the workplace and to
ensure that this child gets appropriate remedy.
Certified Entity is encouraged to monitor that the former child labourer is adequately protected, has
not returned to work, or has been placed in a more precarious situation.
Certified Entity is encouraged to engage with credible community initiatives to help children
transition from work to school.
Reference:
Checkpoints for Companies – Eliminating and Preventing Child Labour
OECD (2017), OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the
Garment and Footwear Sector, pp. 105-116.
“3.5.2 Certified Entity shall provide an environment free of discrimination and harassment, where all
individuals are treated with respect and dignity.”
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Guidance:
In working situations with a predominantly female workforce, Certified Entity shall use female rather
than male overseers and managers.
Certified Entity is encouraged to take preventive measures such as safe transportation, safe
facilities and safe surroundings for female & male employees.
“3.6.3 Certified Entity shall prevent dismissals and career setbacks due to pregnancy or maternity
leave”.
Guidance:
To comply with this criterion, special attention shall be given to the following provisions of the
ILO Maternity Protection Convention No.183:
▪ Duration of the maternity leave: a woman shall be entitled to a period of maternity leave of not
less than 14 weeks (para 1 Article 4). On the production of a medical certificate, leave shall be
provided before or after the maternity leave period in the case of illness, complications or risk of
complications arising out of pregnancy or childbirth. The nature and the maximum duration of
such leave may be specified in accordance with national law and practice (Article 5).
▪ Maternity leave benefits: Cash benefits shall be provided, in accordance with national laws and
regulations, or in any other manner consistent with a national practice, to women who are
absent from work on leave referred to in Articles 4 or 5 (para 1 Article 6). Cash benefits shall be
at a level that ensures that the woman can maintain herself and her child in proper conditions of
health and with a suitable standard of living (para 2 Article 6).
▪ Employment protection: It shall be unlawful for an employer to terminate the employment of a
woman during her pregnancy or absence on leave referred to in Articles 4 or 5 or during a
period following her return to work to be prescribed by national laws or regulations, except on
grounds unrelated to the pregnancy or birth of the child and its consequences or nursing. The
burden of proving that the reasons for dismissal are unrelated to pregnancy or childbirth and its
consequences or nursing shall rest on the employer (para 1, Article 8). A woman is guaranteed
the right to return to the same position or an equivalent position paid at the same rate at the end
of her maternity leave (para 2, Article 8).
▪ Health protection at the workplace: Convention No. 183 recognizes the right to health protection
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by adopting measures to ensure that the pregnant or nursing woman is not obliged to perform
work prejudicial to her health or that of her child or where an assessment has established a
significant risk to the mother or child (Article 3).
▪ Breastfeeding arrangements at work: Convention No. 183 entitles women to one or more daily
breaks or a reduction of work hours for breastfeeding. Breaks or reductions of working hours
shall be counted as working time and remunerated accordingly. The length and number of
breaks are to be determined by national law or practice (Article 10).
Reference:
C183 - Maternity Protection Convention, 2000 (No. 183)
Further Guidance:
Certified Entity shall collect and analyse data about workers’ remuneration and report what the
lowest-paid worker is earning and the average earning for each group (e.g., level) of workers.
Living Wages as estimated by Global Living Wage Coalition shall be used as a definition
benchmark. Where such benchmarks are unavailable, or in addition to these benchmarks, Template
5: Fair Remuneration Quick Scan as available from amfori BSCI should be used.
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This template should be read/used with the Section of the amfori BSCI System Manual on Fair
Remuneration (especially the auditing interpretation guidelines part III and guidelines for producers
part IV) and Annex 9 on How to promote Fair Remuneration.
Certified Entities based in the European Union may also refer to the study “Cost of Living, Living
Wages, and Minimum Wages in EU-27 countries” conducted by the Central European Labour
Studies Institute (CELSI) and WageIndicator Foundation.
Certified Entities are encouraged to work toward closing the Wage Gap, which may be required,
over time, in the future.
Reference:
Template 5: Fair Remuneration Quick Scan
For part-time employees, the restriction of maximum 12 hours per week of overtime is not to be
considered, so long as the total number of hours worked in the week is not more than the total
(regular + overtime) allowed for full-time employees.
Reference:
C001 - Hours of Work (Industry) Convention, 1919 (No. 1)
C014 - Weekly Rest (Industry) Convention, 1921 (No. 14)
C030 - Hours of Work (Commerce and Offices) Convention, 1930 (No. 30)
C106 - Weekly Rest (Commerce and Offices) Convention, 1957 (No. 106)
3.14. HOMEWORKERS
“3.14.1 Certified Entity shall, as far as possible, endeavour to ensure equality of treatment between
homeworkers and workers working at the facility.”
Guidance:
Article 4 of the ILO Home Work Convention (No.177) provides that equality of treatment shall be
promoted, in particular, in relation to:
a) the homeworkers' right to establish or join organizations of their own choosing and to
participate in the activities of such organizations;
b) protection against discrimination in employment and occupation;
c) protection in the field of occupational safety and health;
d) remuneration;
e) statutory social security protection;
f) access to training;
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g) minimum age for admission to employment or work; and
h) maternity protection.
Reference:
C177 - Home Work Convention, 1996 (No. 177)
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The company’s RBC policy may consist of one single policy or several stand-alone policies or be
integrated into wider governance documents such as the code of conduct or principles of business
ethics.
The company’s RBC policy may also build on existing policies and commitments.
Adopting and updating the policy:
The company’s RBC policy should be developed with and informed by relevant internal and external
expertise and approved at the most senior level of the company.
The RBC policy should not be a static document. It should be updated through an iterative process
that builds on increasing knowledge about risks of harm in the enterprise’s supply chain and on
input from internal and external stakeholders.
Communicating the policy:
RBC policy should be made publicly available and communicated to all employees, suppliers,
business partners, and other relevant parties.
RBC policy should reflect the specific risks of harm in its own operations and in its supply chain to
address their specific circumstances and business models.
Reference:
OECD (2017), OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the
Garment and Footwear Sector
“… (2) Certified Entity shall identify actual or potential adverse impacts on issues of Responsible
Business Conduct…”
Guidance:
1) Certified Entity scopes the risk of harm in its own operations and in its supply chain.
• The Certified Entity conducts scoping exercises with a particular view on risks of non-
compliance with GOTS Social Criteria, Environmental Criteria and Ethical Business
Conduct. The scoping exercise shall take into account:
- a risk that may be specific to the products that the Certified Entity makes or sells,
- specific factors of the countries of its operation,
- factors that may be specific to the Certified Entity’s sourcing model,
- components of the Certified Entity’s business model that may increase the likelihood or
scope of risks in its supply chain.
• Certified Entity determines which risks of harm are most significant in its own operations
and in its supply chain and prioritises those for action.
• Certified Entity documents the scoping exercise.
• Certified Entity consults with stakeholders and experts concerning matters which require
additional information.
• Certified Entity reviews the findings of the scoping assessment on a semi-regular basis.
• Certified Entity continually updates the information, feeding into its understanding of the
risks of harm and accounts for changing circumstances.
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• Certified Entity reviews its policies and systems to assess the extent to which risks are
being prevented or mitigated.
• Certified Entity seeks external support to conduct a self-assessment if the impact may
cause severe harm if not prevented, and the prevention measures require technical
expertise not available in-house.
3) Certified Entity assesses suppliers associated with high risk for harm at the site level.
• Certified Entity assesses suppliers associated with a higher risk of those harms prioritised
during the scoping exercise at the site level. For these purposes, the Certified Entity should
select suppliers based on the severity and likelihood of the risk of harm, not their position in
the supply chain. The following considerations should be taken into account when
identifying the supplier for such an assessment:
- the country of operation with specific risks,
- production processes with specific risks (e.g. wet-processing is a high risk for
hazardous chemicals),
- harms or risks of harm identified in previous supplier assessment.
• Where severe risks are linked to upstream processes (e.g. cotton growing), the Certified
Entity seeks assurances that the prioritised suppliers upstream are being assessed.
• Certified Entity conducts supplier assessments when there are information gaps or the
context has likely changed.
• Certified Entity assesses:
- the measures that the supplier has implemented to prevent harm,
- the actual harm on the ground and risks of harm,
- the extent to which the workers are aware of their rights, in particular about their human
and labour rights,
- whether the supplier has established an operational-level grievance mechanism and
whether it is effective,
• The extent and nature of the assessment correspond to the potential risks and is adapted to
the local context. For labour and human rights issues, workers are involved in designing
assessments.
• In case of discrepancies between actual findings and expected findings Certified Entity
should adjust the assessment methodology.
• Persons conducting the assessment should know the local context and national and
international standards related to the adverse impact.
4) Certified Entity assesses its relationship to impacts.
• Certified Entity makes good faith efforts to understand whether it has caused, contributed
to, or is linked to its identified impacts.
• Certified Entity takes immediate actions to top existing impacts.
Reference:
OECD (2017), OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the
Garment and Footwear Sector
“… (3) Certified Entity shall cease, prevent or mitigate adverse impacts on issues of Responsible
Business Conduct….”
Guidance:
1) Certified Entity seeks to prevent or mitigate harm in its own operations.
• Certified Entity establishes and implements a plan to prevent or mitigate future harm in its
own operations.
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• Certified Entity takes immediate actions to prevent any immediate and critical danger in the
short term.
• Certified Entity seeks to develop outcome-oriented solutions that lead to the prevention of
harm in the longer term.
• The Certified Entity's plan to prevent and mitigate harm includes clear follow-up timelines.
The measures pursued to prevent and mitigate harm are proportionate to the severity of
harm. Based on the level of risk, the Certified Entity should consider seeking expert advice.
• Workers, trade unions and representatives of the workers' own choosing are engaged
during the development of the Certified Entity's measures to prevent and mitigate labour-
related issues (in the Certified Entity's own supply chain).
2) Certified Entity Seeks to prevent or mitigate harm in its supply chain.
• Certified Entity develops and implements its own plan to seek to prevent or mitigate future
harm in its supply chain.
• If a risk of contributing to harm in the supply chain is identified, the Certified Entity develops
and implements a plan to prevent its contribution to harm.
• Certified Entity develops pricing models that account for the cost of wages, benefits and
investments in decent work.
• Certified Entity may implement internal measures to manage risks in its supply chain.
These include measures that the Certified Entity itself can control.
• Certified Entity seeks to prevent/mitigate risks through its product development.
• Certified Entity has a good, local knowledge of its suppliers.
• Certified Entity may use its leverage to influence its supplier to prevent or mitigate impacts.
For brands and retailers:
• Certified Entity implements control measures to prevent contributing to harm through its
purchasing practices even if it has not identified specific instances of this. There is a system
of procedures to follow in instances where purchasing practices could contribute to harm.
• When appropriate, the Certified Entity disengages from the supplier to prevent adverse
impacts on its supply chains.
• If the Certified Entity determines the need to disengage from the supplier, it complies with
national laws, international labour standards, and terms of collective bargaining
agreements.
• If disengaging from a supplier, the Certified Entity provides information supporting the
business decision to management and the union (if one exists) of the supplier.
• If disengaging from a supplier, the Certified Entity gives the supplier sufficient notice of the
end of the relationship.
• As long as a Certified Entity has an ongoing relationship with a supplier, it can demonstrate
its efforts to mitigate the identified adverse impact(s).
GOTS encourages Certified Entities:
• to pool leverage with other buyers, especially in cases where they do not hold the
leverage,
• to establish incentives for suppliers to comply with the RBC policy,
• to support suppliers in preventing or mitigating impacts,
• to engage with the government to prevent or mitigate adverse impacts.
Reference:
OECD (2017), OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the
Garment and Footwear Sector
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“… (4) Certified Entity shall track implementation and results…”
Guidance:
1) Verify, monitor and validate progress on due diligence and its effectiveness in the Certified
Entity's own operations
• Certified Entity has implemented assurance mechanisms to assess whether its due
diligence requirements are being met in its own operations.
• Certified Entity monitors due diligence and risk management on an ongoing basis using
appropriate performance indicators.
• Certified Entity draws on all known information, including data from ongoing monitoring,
periodic internal assessments, issues raised through grievance mechanisms, etc., to
validate that the steps taken by the enterprise are preventing and mitigating impacts.
• In instances in which harmful impacts have not been effectively prevented or mitigated, the
Certified Entity seeks to understand why this is the case and responds appropriately.
• Certified Entity engages with external experts to verify the effectiveness of due diligence
and risk management measures where impacts may cause severe harm if not adequately
prevented or where prevention measures require technical expertise.
2) Verify, monitor and validate progress on due diligence and its effectiveness in the supply
chain.
• Certified Entity implements assurance mechanisms to assess whether its due diligence
requirements are being met in its supply chain.
• Whenever possible, the Certified Entity should monitor indicators, either direct or indirect, to
validate that impacts have been prevented.
• Certified Entity draws on all known information, including data from ongoing monitoring,
periodic internal assessments, issues raised through grievance mechanisms, etc., to
validate that the steps taken by the Certified Entity are preventing and mitigating impacts.
• In instances in which harmful impacts have not been effectively prevented or mitigated, the
Certified Entity seeks to understand why this is the case and responds appropriately.
GOTS encourages Certified Entities:
• To involve external experts in assessing the effectiveness of due diligence and risk
management measures undertaken in the supply chain. External experts should, in
particular, be involved where impacts in the supply chain may cause severe harm if not
adequately prevented or where prevention measures require technical expertise.
Reference:
OECD (2017), OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the
Garment and Footwear Sector
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- its plan to prevent and mitigate harm in its supply chain and progress on those
measures,
- its objectives for government policy engagement and the outcomes of engagement
efforts (if relevant),
- how it has meaningfully engaged with its stakeholders,
- the processes that provide access to remediation in its own operations,
- processes that provide access to remediation in its supply chain,
- the collaborative processes it engages that facilitate due diligence.
• Certified Entity communicates publicly, at a minimum, on an annual basis.
• Information is communicated in a way that is relevant, accurate, clear, user friendly with
plain language and is presented in a way that the intended users can access information.
2) Communicate with affected stakeholders (for Human Rights)
• Certified Entity is prepared to communicate how it addresses its human rights impacts.
• If the Certified Entity's operations or operating contexts pose a risk of severe human rights
impacts, the enterprise reports formally on how they are addressed.
• Communications are accessible to impacted stakeholders.
Reference:
OECD (2017), OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the
Garment and Footwear Sector
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• Where a grievance mechanism is established, it is based on the core criteria:
- Legitimacy;
- Accessibility;
- Predictability;
- Equitability;
- Transparency;
- Being dialogue-based.
• Where a grievance mechanism is established, it does not preclude access to judicial
recourse (e.g. through legal waivers) for victims of gross human rights violations, and the
enterprise does not interfere with civil or criminal investigations or human rights
examinations.
• GOTS encourages Certified Entities:
- to consult existing guidance on establishing operational-level grievance mechanisms.
- to publish complaints.
3) Certified Entity provides for or contributes to remedy in cases where it has caused or
contributed to adverse impacts.
• Remedy seeks to restore the affected person(s) to the situation they would be in had the
harm not occurred.
• Remedy meets national laws and international guidelines, and where standards are not
available, the remedy is consistent with previous cases.
• Certified Entity engages with affected stakeholders in the determination of the remedy.
• Certified Entity assesses the level of satisfaction with the process and the outcome of those
who raised the complaints.
Reference:
OECD (2017), OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the
Garment and Footwear Sector
“3.15.6 Certified Entity shall assign oversight and responsibility for due diligence to relevant senior
management and assign board-level responsibilities for implementing Policy on Responsible Business
Conduct and GOTS Social Criteria.”
Interpretation:
• Certified Entity is encouraged to establish or strengthen corporate governance to oversee
and support RBC, including assigning board and senior management level accountability
for guiding the company’s approach and implementation of RBC.
• Senior staff members responsible for implementing the Certified Entity’s RBC Policy and
GOTS Social Criteria should give adequate attention and support to due diligence on
human rights, labour, environment and integrity risks and allocate resources accordingly.”
• Should secure adequate staff time and ensure that those who work on supply chain due
diligence have the competence to perform their duties.
“… 3.15.13. Upon request, Certified Entities shall provide information about complaint records to
their Certified Buyers should complaints possibly be related to the business practices of such Certified
Buyers …”
Guidance:
GOTS social conditions at the supplier may be influenced by the buyer's commercial business
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practices. To understand how such practices could adversely affect the implementation of GOTS
social criteria, the buyer needs this information. It also enables them to consider appropriate
remedies.
Further Guidance:
The use of social criteria tools such as SAI’s Social Fingerprint programme to help companies
measure and improve social performance in their company and their supply chain is encouraged by
GOTS.
Reference: SAI’s Social Fingerprint®
Exceptions for Traders and Retailers are defined in the corresponding Implementation Manual.
Exceptions to annual onsite inspection for small scale subcontractors with a low-risk potential are
possible under certain conditions, as defined in the corresponding Implementation Manual. An on-site
inspection shall however be performed to such units at least for the 1st year and every 3rd year of
granted certification.”
Interpretation:
• Depending on the kind of organic fibre processed, the following stages are considered as the first
processing stages that shall be GOTS certified:
o Ginning for cotton
o Retting for bast fibres
o Boiling and washing cocoons for silk
o Scouring for wools and other animal fibres (respective grading if this step is undertaken
before scouring and not already covered by the organic farming certification)
• For other types of fibres, the first processing step is what follows the steps covered in the organic
production certificate of the raw material/fibre
• The inspection and certification obligation for the different stages in the supply chain of GOTS
Goods can be summarised as follows:
o Processors and manufacturers of GOTS Goods:
Certification based on annual on-site inspection is obligatory.
o Subcontractors (in the field of processing and manufacturing) of GOTS Goods:
Certification based on on-site inspection is obligatory
o Chemical Formulators:
On-site inspection obligation for approved GOTS Input producers
o Subcontractors of Chemical Formulators:
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On-site inspection obligation
Further Guidance:
• If a gin has a valid certificate issued according to an accepted farm standard (Section 2.1), it
should be accepted to the maximum possible extent. The Certifier should focus on the
parameters not covered in the respective farm standard.
• Special requirements for cotton gins: cotton ginning units shall be independently certified to
GOTS. Independently certified gins may be used as subcontractors by other GOTS certified
companies following all other GOTS requirements.
Exemption Guidance:
• Possible exemptions from the annual on-site inspection cycle under the provision for
‘small-scale subcontractors with a low-risk potential’ are provided as follows: Based on the
details listed below, Approved Certifiers may decide on exceptions from the annual onsite
inspection cycle for facilities which employ a total number of up to 10 (≤10) production workers
and performing job work for a certified entity such as home-based working units and mechanical
processing and manufacturing facilities in developed countries.
o Operators employing up to 10 (≤10) production workers should be considered as ‘small-
scale’ in this context.
o On-site visits shall, however take place at least every third year.
o Units performing wet processing cannot be considered as having a ‘low-risk potential’
regarding environmental criteria.
o Processors and manufacturers employing workers in developing countries can generally
not be considered as having a ‘low-risk potential’ regarding social criteria.
o Approved Certifiers shall document the risk assessment on which the decision to make
use of exceptional rule is based on.
• Possible exception from certification for traders and retailers is as follows: Traders with
any B2B activities such as import, export and wholesale entities: Certification based on annual
on-site respective remote inspection as specified in GOTS is obligatory if at least one of the
following conditions are valid:
o they become proprietors of GOTS Goods (= buy and sell them) with an annual turnover
with these products of at least 20.000 €
o they are engaged with packaging or re-packaging of GOTS Goods
o they are engaged with labelling or re-labelling** of GOTS Goods.
• Remote inspections shall only be carried out for traders which do not have or subcontract any
processing or manufacturing activities if the Approved Certifier is able to cover all applicable
aspects of the below minimum inspections protocol without being on-site.
• On-site visits need to take place at least every third year of granted certification. Every 3rd year of
granted certification is to be interpreted as an on-site visit in the first year and every third year
thereafter, that is Year 1- Year 3 - Year 6.
• Traders that are not obliged to become certified because their annual turnover with GOTS Goods
is less than 20.000 € shall register with an Approved Certifier. In this context, the certified status
of their supplier and the correct labelling of the GOTS Goods (with license number and certifier's
reference of the supplier) should be verified. As soon as their annual turnover exceeds 20.000 €,
they shall inform the Approved Certifier and are under an obligation of certification.
• Registered traders can involve in trade activities with finished and intermediate GOTS Goods but
cannot get involved in trades of raw/seed/lint fibres.
• For retailers, certification is obligatory only if at least one of the following conditions is valid:
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o They have – besides their retail activity – also a B2B trade activity with GOTS Goods with
an annual turnover of at least 20.000 €
o They are engaged with packaging or re-packaging* of GOTS Goods
They are engaged with labelling or re-labelling** of GOTS Goods
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o Verification that corrective actions have been taken
• Where verifiable results (audit reports) from the following internationally recognised social
compliance schemes are available for the inspected facility, these should be screened and
considered to the widest extent possible for the GOTS verification procedures:
o Fair Wear Foundation (FWF)
o Social Accountability 8000 (SA 8000)
o Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP)
o amfori BSCI
o SMETA-Sedex report not older than 1 year
• Audit reports available need to be checked on their scope and quality in order to decide to which
extent they can be used:
o Is all relevant site data given (name, address, contact person, ownership, workforce,
production process, production capacity, subcontractors included)?
o Does it refer to all social criteria included in GOTS?
o Is it based on sources of information that correspond to those covered by the above
minimum on-site inspection protocol?
• Where such verifiable audit reports are available based on an on-site inspection in the period of
one year before the GOTS inspection takes place and indicate compliance with the applicable
GOTS social criteria, a significant reduction of the audit time in these areas is considered
reasonable. In general, Approved Certifiers need to ensure that sufficient audit time to verify
compliance with both environmental and social criteria is planned for the on-site inspection
considering size, the number of workers, location, processing steps and related risk potential for
non-compliance of the applicable criteria. While it is reasonable that, e.g. in a complex wet
processing unit in a developed country, considerably more audit time is spent verifying
compliance with the environmental criteria, it is expected in a large garment manufacturing unit
located in a developing country and not recently verified by another recognised social compliance
scheme that considerably more audit time is spent verifying compliance with the minimum social
criteria.
• Where verifiable audit reports are available under ISO 14001 or EMAS based on an on-site
inspection in the period of one year before the GOTS inspection, these should be considered to
the widest possible extent towards compliance with GOTS environmental criteria. In specific, the
Sedex Members Ethical Trade Audit (SMETA) Best Practice Guidance (Section 6.5.3) should be
used as a framework to establish audit length and the number of individual interviews performed
for inspections in developing countries where no verifiable results from any of the mentioned
internationally recognised social compliance schemes are available.
• Considering seasonal business and related specific challenges and high-risk situations for
compliance with the minimum social criteria in the ginning sector, GOTS inspections of ginning
mills are to be planned and carried out during peak working season and during working hours
when the mills are operating. Approved certification bodies ensure that every inspection carried
out for ginning will be informed to GOTS Quality Assurance. They shall ensure that GOTS
personnel can accompany any audits carried out during the ginning season and otherwise.
Further Guidance:
For the definition of Developing Countries, reference is the World Economic Outlook reports by the
IMF, published twice a year.
Reference:
SMETA Best Practice Guidance document
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World Economic Outlook reports
“Basis for authorisation by the Global Standard gGmbH is an accreditation of the certifier in
accordance with the Global Standard gGmbH document ‘Approval Procedure and Requirements for
Certification Bodies’ by the main co-operation partner of Global Standard gGmbH for this process,
IOAS, or another recognised accreditation body”.
Interpretation:
A general precondition for accepting an application as a GOTS Approved Certifier is an existing ISO
17065 accreditation of the applicant (according to Section 2. Principles of the “Approval Procedure
and Requirements for Certification Bodies”). Besides, IOAS authorised national or international
accreditation bodies (such as IAF members) that have the necessary competence and confirm to
the Global Standard gGmbH that they follow the given procedures to accredit to the GOTS scope(s)
are considered as ‘recognised accreditation bodies’.
Further Guidance:
• For risk assessment in textile supply chains, Approved Certifiers and Certified Entities should
further refer to OECD Due Diligence Guidance.
Reference:
OECD (2018), OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the
Garment and Footwear Sector, OECD Publishing, Paris.
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potential GM varieties commonly used for the corresponding crop; prohibited additives
commonly used for regenerated and synthetic fibres as well as accessories
o (Organic) natural fibre claims: non-natural substitutes used (e.g. natural bamboo fibre:
rayon made from bamboo; linen and hemp: synthetic imitation fibres)
o Type and amount of approved chemical inputs used for GOTS Goods: any fastness
problems known, problematic restricted inputs contained (e.g. AOX, copper), as well as
prohibited substances commonly used in the same conventional process
o Separation measures in processing: sources of potential contamination from the
parallel conventional processing stages performed in the unit
o Transport and storage conditions of GOTS goods: prohibited substances commonly
used in transport and storage of comparable conventional products
• Qualitative GMO screening of cotton within the GOTS supply chain shall be performed by
appropriately qualified (such as ISO 17025) testing laboratories using ISO IWA 32 protocol.
This protocol establishes that GMO screening is only possible on unprocessed (raw/greige)
cotton. Consequently, testing on chemically processed cotton is not to be carried out.
• Notwithstanding the above, GOTS recognises that testing techniques evolve and improve over
time. Any techniques other than the ISO IWA 32 protocol and/or testing on processed cotton
can be employed only after technically supported external verification and subsequent
confirmation of such techniques by GOTS.
• Testing if an enzyme in a textile auxiliary is derived from GM bacteria to date is still hardly
possible for independent labs. Certifiers need to rely on other verification and inspection tools
such as the GM declaration of the supplier of the enzyme (such declarations are, e.g. also, the
requirement for enzymes used in the organic food supply chain under EC 834/2007) or
traceability checks of ingredients / raw materials used to determine if the declared enzyme
indeed is used for the applied auxiliary.
• Suggested Testing Parameters & Matrices
o Certified Entities and Approved Certifiers shall plan their own regime of textile quality
testing based on their risk assessment with the overall responsibility of ensuring
approved inputs, certified GOTS Goods, and accessories will meet the necessary
requirements of the latest GOTS version.
o Risk Assessment of chemical inputs can be tricky depending on the chemistry used for
different process stages, however, experience and competence in processing should
be factors to be considered in deciding on a testing protocol.
o Based on chemistry and industry practices, the following are guidance risk parameters
for different categories of chemical inputs:
Pre-treatment Chemicals Dyes & Pigments Finishing Chemicals
o It should be abundantly clear that testing of GOTS Goods (for residues) and GOTS
GOTS Implementation Manual Version 7.0 · Revision Draft 1.0 · 11 April 2022 · Page 50/52
approved inputs are squarely within the responsibility and ambit of Certified Entities and
Approved Certifiers, based on their specific assessment of risk in each case. However,
purely for guidance, test parameter matrices are suggested below
o Suggested test parameter matrix for GOTS Chemical Inputs
Pre-treatment &
Printing Dyeing
Parameter Dyes Pigments Printing Inks Finishing
Auxiliaries Auxiliaries
Auxiliaries
AOX ✪ ✪ ✪
AP/APEO ✪ ✪ ✪ ✪ ✪ ✪
Heavy Metals ✪ ✪ ✪ ✪ ✪ ✪
Formaldehyde ✪ ✪ ✪
Banned Amines ✪ ✪ ✪
Chlorophenols ✪ ✪
Phthalates ✪
PVC ✪
o Suggested test parameter matrix for GOTS Goods, residues & quality
Processed /
Grey Printed Dyed Metallic Other Sewing
Parameter Undyed
Fabric Fabric Fabric Accessories accessories Thread
Fabric
Sensitising /
Allergenic Disperse ✪
Dyes (PES)
AOX ✪ ✪ ✪ ✪ ✪
AP/APEO ✪ ✪ ✪ ✪ ✪
Lead / Cadmium ✪ ✪ ✪ ✪ ✪ ✪ ✪
Extractable HM ✪ ✪ ✪ ✪ ✪ ✪
Nickel Release ✪
Formaldehyde ✪ ✪ ✪ ✪
Banned Amines ✪ ✪ ✪ ✪
Chlorophenols ✪ ✪
Phthalates ✪ ✪ ✪
pH value ✪ ✪ ✪ ✪
Colourfastness &
✪ ✪ ✪ ✪ ✪
Shrinkage
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Guidance:
• Synthetic fibre components are not permitted for group II products
• Synthetic security veils are not allowed for tampons
Reference:
COSMOS-Standard (Cosmetics Organic and Natural Standard)
Important:
The following verbal forms are used to indicate requirements, recommendations, permissions, or
capabilities in this policy:
• “shall” indicates a mandatory requirement
• “should” indicates a recommendation
• “may” indicates a permission
• “can” indicates a possibility or capability
Copyright: © 2022 by
Global Standard gGmbH
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