Indoor Horticulture • HO-73-W

Department of Horticulture and Landscape Architecture

Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service • West Lafayette, IN

The Poinsettia
Michael N. Dana and B. Rosie Lerner

The poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) is the most popu- Most plants are sold as three single-stem plants per
lar Christmas season plant. It was introduced into the pot. However, with new varieties, it is possible to have
United States in the late 1820ʼs from its native Mexico by multi-stemmed plants. Each plant may have two to four
our first ambassador to that country, Joel Robert Poinsett. branches and flowers. Flowering and bract development
The plant was first known and probably is still best known occur evenly, making multi-stemmed plants the equal of
for the bright red leaves or bracts that surround the in- single-stemmed plants.
conspicuous, small, yellow, true flowers. Poinsettias may
be purchased in colors ranging from white and cream Avoid bruising or chilling the plant when you take it home
through the various shades of pink and red. from the florist. Sudden drops in temperature to 50°F or
below can cause wilting followed by a dropping of the
A Safe Houseplant bracts.

The poinsettia has long been veiled in an aura of folklore Home Care
and has gained the reputation of being a deadly plant. A
member of the spurge family, it is closely related to the Proper care of poinsettias will keep your plant looking at-
dangerous Snow-on-the-Mountain. However, in university tractive for a long time. The conditions inside our northern
tests, rats showed no signs of toxicity or any apparent ill homes often are not ideal for poinsettias, natives of the
effects when given large doses of homogenates made tropics. Under unfavorable conditions, the leaves will turn
from the leaves, bracts, or flowers of the poinsettia. The yellow and drop off; the bracts may also drop.
force-fed rats showed no changes in dietary intake or
general behavior pattern. So it appears the poinsettia Since the poinsettia is greenhouse grown at tempera-
is not a dangerous plant as many people still believe. tures of 60-70°F with high relative humidity and maxi-
However, some individuals may be sensitive to the plant's mum sunlight, homeowners should try to simulate these
milky sap as a skin irritant. conditions for best home care. Root-rot disease is more
prevalent when the plants are kept below 60°F. Plants
Purchasing kept in rooms where the temperature is above 70°F will
usually have a slightly shorter life.
Poinsettias are priced according to the number of
blooms, those with more blooms are more expensive. A Place the plant near a sunny window, but do not allow it
bloom is composed of several true flowers with the color- to touch the cold glass. Avoid temperature fluctuations
ful red, pink, or white bracts surrounding them. For the and drafts that can cause chilling and injury. Also, avoid
best buy, look for plants with bright green foliage all along heat outlets since warm, dry air can cause damage. If
the stem. Plants with healthy foliage should have good possible, move the plant to a cooler room at night (60°F).
root systems and should last well in your home where
growing conditions are usually not ideal for poinsettias. Both over- and under-watering can cause problems.
When the soil feels dry to the touch or appears lighter in
Select plants with the least amount of pollen showing color, water thoroughly. Always add enough water so that
on the fresh, true flowers situated just above the colorful it drains from the pot (Figure 1). Pots that are wrapped
bracts. Plants with old flowers that have shed much of with foil should have a hole punched through the foil to
their pollen tend to drop their bracts sooner. Differences allow excess water to drain away. Do not allow the pot to
in varieties do occur, and many cultivars will hold their stand in excess water; excess water deprives the roots of
bracts for several weeks or even months after the true oxygen and causes the roots to die and eventually rot.
flowers have dropped.

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Indoor Horticulture • HO-73-W
wood from shriveling, but not enough to promote growth.
If other plants were added to the pot by the florist (usually
to hide barren lower stems), remove them before induc-
ing dormancy.

Spring and Summer Care

When new growth begins, about May 1, repot the plant. If

several plants are in the same pot, it is best to repot each
individually. Use a potting mixture of two parts soil, one
part sphagnum peat moss, and one part perlite or sand.
Cut the stems back to 6 inches above the soil (Figure
2) and water thoroughly. Then place the plant near a
south-facing window. Keep the plant at a temperature of
Figure 1. Add water until it runs fully out of the drainage 70-75°F. Water only when the soil appears dry. After new
holes (a). Do not allow the plant to stand in water (b). growth appears, fertilize with a water soluble balanced
analysis fertilizer such as 20-20-20 every two weeks (fol-
low directions on the label for mixing).
A wilted plant may drop its leaves prematurely. If wilting
does occur, water the plant thoroughly to moisten the soil, After the danger of frost has passed and night tempera-
then re-water again in 5 to 10 minutes, but never allow tures exceed 50°F, select a slightly shaded area, and sink
the plant to stand in excess water. the poinsettia pot to the rim in well-drained soil out-of-
doors (Figure 3). Rotate the pot occasionally in order to
Display prevent the roots from growing into the soil outside the
pot. The plants may be transplanted into larger pots as
Display your potted poinsettia to its best advantage. For the plants become rootbound. Poinsettia plants have
example, it may be used with harmonizing statuary or brittle roots, so avoid any unnecessary rough handling.
candles as a focal point on a low table. Choose a pleas-
ing background free of objects which will compete for If a short plant is desired, pinch out the growing shoot tips
attention. when there are two fully expanded leaves on each shoot
(Figure 4). Use a clean, sharp knife to remove the shoot
Poinsettias are not easily handled as cut flowers; they tip. To produce a tall plant, avoid pinching completely, or
may quite suddenly wilt even with proper care. However, pinch only once to obtain the desired shape. Do not pinch
they can be useful as cut flowers for short-term arrange- after mid-August. Continue to water and fertilize the plant
ments if cut and sealed properly. Cut the stem between weekly while it is out-of-doors.
the nodes. Stop the latex from exuding by dipping the
cut end in boiling water for 30 seconds, or sear it with a Fall Care
flame. Be sure to protect the bloom and the rest of the
stem from the heat while sealing the cut end. To extend The plant should be brought indoors before the end of
flower life, recut the stem and reseal it periodically. August. A thorough spraying with malathion should eradi-
cate all insect pests before bringing the plant indoors.
After Flowering Read the label carefully for mixing rate and precautions.
Keep the plant in a sunny location at a temperature of
Quite often people desire to keep their poinsettia plant 65-75°F and continue to water and fertilize as previously
and reflower it the following year. Even though it is one outlined.
of the most difficult plants to reflower successfully, it is
probably the most often attempted. For those who are
persistent enough to follow these directions, which in-
clude 2-1/2 months of daily attention to the plant, another
Christmas flower show can be produced. Those who
cannot provide proper conditions should not attempt to
reflower their plants.

Leaves and bracts fall once the flowers pass maturity.

After half of the leaves and bracts have fallen off, gradu-
ally decrease watering until the soil is completely dry. The Figure 2. Before new growth begins, repot each plant
plant is then in a dormant state and should be stored in individually and cut the stems back to 6 inches above the
a dark location at 50°F. Water only enough to keep the soil.

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 Indoor Horticulture • HO-73-W

Figure 3. Poinsettia plants can be placed out-of-doors

after frost danger has passed.

Flowers on the poinsettia are photoperiodically induced.

This means that flowers begin to form when days are a
definite length, or more accurately, when the nights reach Figure 5. To propagate by cuttings, 4 to 6 inches of the
a definite length. The poinsettia is a long-night plant. It shoot tip should be removed when the shoot is 3 to 12
flowers about 10 weeks after the length of night is 13 inches long.
hours or more. Thus, the plant must have complete dark-
ness between 5 p.m. and 8 a.m. daily from October 1 to
December 15. If the plant is exposed to any kind of light
(street light, flashlight, etc.) during the dark hours, flower-
ing will be delayed. A dark closet or opaque box may be
used for the dark treatment. If growing conditions and
Propagation of Additional Plants
long night conditions are accurate, the dark treatment
Poinsettias may be propagated by cuttings taken during
can be omitted after December 1. However, it is best to
July through August. When new shoots are 8 to 10 inches
continue the dark treatment until the bracts are almost
long, cut the stem 4 to 6 inches from the tip (Figure 5).
fully expanded.
Use a sharp knife to remove the cuttings. Remove the
basal leaves and apply a rooting hormone. Place the
During the period of floral-induction with its long night
cuttings in a moistened rooting medium of clean, coarse
treatment, keep night temperatures between 60-62°F.
sand, or a mixture of sand and peat moss. Cover the
Day temperatures should be 10 to 14 degrees warmer.
cuttings with a glass jar or a plastic bag to conserve the
Provide the brightest possible light during the daytime.
moisture. Place in a shaded location. Poinsettia cuttings
Continue fertilization until mid-December, but reduce
are extremely succulent and wilt easily. Often it is better
to every second week since growth is slower inside the
to take cuttings during the early morning hours before
house.
the sun gets too warm. When the cuttings root in 3 to
4 weeks, transfer them to small pots. Poinsettias have
brittle roots, so take extra care in the potting process.
After the cuttings grow, they may be transferred to larger
pots, with several cuttings per pot.

Figure 4. For shorter, stockier plants, pinch after two fully For more information on the subject discussed in this
expanded leaves have developed for a short plant (a). publication, consult your local office of the Purdue University
Shoot (b) is not ready for pinching until its second leaf is Cooperative Extension Service.
fully expanded.

Cooperative Extension work in Agriculture and Home Economics, state of Indiana, Purdue University, and U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating; D. Petritz, Director, West Lafayette, IN.
Issued in furtherance of the acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914. The Cooperative Extension Service of Purdue University is an affirmative action/equal opportunity institution.

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