1-1

TROUBLESHOOTING
Page 0
TROUBLESHOOTING ....................................... 1-2
1
MECHANICAL TROUBLE .......................................... 1-2
ENGINE DOES NOT CRANK NORMALLY................ 1-3 2
ENGINE DOES NOT START EASILY,
OR DOES NOT START AT ALL.............................. 1-4
3
ENGINE IS ROUGH, OR STOPS, 4
DURING IDLING ...................................................... 1-5
CANNOT ACCELERATE SMOOTHLY 5
(INCLUDING HESITATION)..................................... 1-6
INSUFFICIENT POWER OUTPUT
6
(INCLUDING HUNTING) .......................................... 1-8
7
ENGINE OVERHEATS ............................................... 1-9
EXCESSIVE FUEL CONSUMPTION........................ 1-10 8
ABNORMAL COMBUSTION .................................... 1-11 9
ABNORMAL ENGINE NOISE,
OR NOISY ENGINE ............................................... 1-13 10
EXCESSIVE ENGINE OIL CONSUMPTION ............ 1-16
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
1-2

TROUBLESHOOTING
This manual describes the basic 4Y-M vehicle (mechanical fuel injection system). For troubleshooting for the
electrical systems of the 4Y-E (electronic fuel injection system), refer to the troubleshooting pages for the separate
repair manual for each vehicle.

MECHANICAL TROUBLE
The causes of engine faults are divided into 3 factors of gasoline engines.

3 Factors of Gasoline Engines

3 factors Main functional parts
Good air-fuel mixture Fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel strainer, carburetor, air governor etc.
Good compression Engine body (Intake and exhaust valves, piston rings, cylinders etc.)
Good ignition Distributor, spark plugs, resistive cord and ignition

The basics are as described above, however, since insufficient maintenance also gives rise to faults. Carry out pre-
inspections of the following items.
Pre-inspection items
Coolant Spark plugs
Engine oil Ignition timing
Battery and terminals Idle speed status
Air cleaner Air governor operating condition
Fan belt Looseness in any engine part

List of Items
Status Fault Page
Engine has trouble in starting or does not Engine does not crank normally See P1-3
start Engine does not start easily, or does not start at all See P1-4
Engine is rough, or stops, during idling See P1-5
Engine running rough Cannot accelerate smoothly (including hesitation) See P1-6
Insufficient power output (including hunting) See P1-8
Engine overheats  See P1-9
Excessive fuel consumption  See P1-10
Knocking See P1-11
Run on See P1-11
Abnormal combustion
After fire See P1-12
Back fire See P1-12
Noise that changes with operation of the clutch pedal See P1-13
Noise that is often heard during idling See P1-13
Abnormal engine noise, or noisy engine
Noise that is often heard at a certain engine speed See P1-14
Noise that is often heard regardless of engine speed See P1-15
Excessive engine oil consumption  See P1-16
 1-3

ENGINE DOES NOT CRANK NORMALLY

When the ignition key switch is turned ON, the starter motor does not respond, or makes an abnormal noise.
Phenomenon Main places for inspection and adjustment

0
1. Battery
2. Battery cables
Starter does not respond [Point 1] 3. Ignition key switch
4. Starter unit 1
5. Neutral safety switch
1. Battery
2. Starter motor
2
Slow cranking speed or clicking sound
3. Engine body (When all the plugs are removed, the engine
should rotate easily.) 3
1. Starter clutch
"Rev and rattle" sound 2. Ring gear 4
3. Magnetic switch

[Point 1] 5
To test whether the fault is with the circuit to the starter motor, or
with the starter motor itself, connect the starter motor directly to the 6
battery with the 30 terminal and 50 terminal leads. If the starter
motor turns, then the fault is in the circuit. If it does not turn, then
the fault is in the motor. 7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
1-4

ENGINE DOES NOT START EASILY, OR DOES NOT START AT ALL

Classification Main places for inspection and adjustment
1. Spark plugs
2. Plug cords
3. Ignition key switch
Ignition [Point 1]
4. Distributor
5. Igniter
6. Ignition timing
1. Fuel pump
2. Fuel pipe
3. Fuel strainer
4. Air breather of the fuel tank
Fuel [Point 2]
5. Fuel
6. Carburetor [Point 3]
7. Air governor [Point 4]
8. Choke valve
1. Valve
2. Piston rings
Compression
3. Piston
4. Cylinder

[Point 1]
Inspect sparks using the spark plug
Remove the spark plug and position it about 6 to 8 mm (0.24 to 0.31
in.) away from earth. Normally, during cranking, a strong spark
should fly out. Check all the plugs in the same way.
If there is no spark at all, inspect the distributor and the primary lead
side.

[Point 2]
Inspect the fuel flow to the carburetor
Disconnect the fuel pipe connector on the carburetor side, and run
the engine with the starter motor. Check whether the fuel is ejected
strongly from the fuel pipe.
Caution:
• Do not allow open flames to come near during the
inspection.
• Take measures to prevent the fuel from scattering.
 1-5

[Point 3]
Inspect the fuel ejection status of the acceleration pump jet
Remove the intake air connector from the top of the carburetor.
Inspect the ejection of fuel from the pump jet when the throttle valve
is operated.

[Point 4]
0
Inspect the air governor
If the ribbon spring or coil spring of the governor is broken, the
governor valve will stay fully closed and the engine will be unable
1
to start.
2
ENGINE IS ROUGH, OR STOPS, DURING IDLING 3
Phenomenon Main places for inspection and adjustment
1. Carburetor 4
2. PCV valve
3. Resistive cord
4. Distributor
5
Engine is rough during idling [Point 1]
5. Ignition timing
6. Tappet clearance
6
7
7. Valve contact
8. Plug
1. Idle-up actuator
Roughness during idle-up 2. VTV 8
3. Vacuum hose

[Point 1]
9
Inspect non-combusting cylinders
Hold the bottom of the resistive cord and pull it off from the plug.
Work through each cylinder, disconnecting the cord end from the
10
spark plug terminal and stopping the spark. Inspect for the
presence of combustion by checking:
• The change in engine speed
11
12
• Change in combustion sound, or change in vibration

13
14
15
16
17
18
1-6

CANNOT ACCELERATE SMOOTHLY (INCLUDING HESITATION)

Classification Main places for inspection and adjustment
1. Accelerator pedal and link [Point 1]
Fuel 2. Governor
3. Accelerator pump
1. Spark plugs
2. Ignition timing
3. Ignition circuit
4. Vacuum advancer [Point 2]
Ignition 5. Vacuum hose
6. Vacuum controller
7. Breaker plate
8. Governor controller [Point 3]
9. Air governor [Point 4]
1. Intake and exhaust valve contact
2. Piston rings
Compression
3. Piston
4. Cylinder

[Point 1]
Adjust the accelerator pedal and link system
The opening of the throttle valve depends on the adjustment of the
accelerator pedal height and the link wire. Check that the throttle
valve becomes fully open when the accelerator pedal is fully
depressed.

[Point 2]
Check vacuum advancer function
1. Connect a timing light with the engine running. Inspect to see
that the degree of advance is reduced when the vacuum hose
is disconnected from the distributor, and that it returns to its
original position when the vacuum hose is reconnected.
Note:
If this inspection is as it should be, omit the inspection in 2.
 1-7

2. When the engine is stopped, disconnect the vacuum hose

connector from the distributor and apply vacuum to a
diaphragm to check that the vacuum advancer is working
smoothly. Inspect the return condition as well.

[Point 3]
Check governor controller function
1. Connect a timing light. When the engine speed is gradually
increased from idle, there should be an advance.
Note:
If this inspection is as it should be, omit the inspection in 2.

2. With the engine stopped, remove the distributor cap. When the
rotor is turned by hand about 15° in the turning direction and
released, it should return.

[Point 4]
Check function of the VCV inside the air governor
Using a timing light to check the degree of advance, disconnect the
vacuum hose from the distributor with the engine running at 2000
rpm or more. Check that the degree of advance becomes smaller.
1-8

INSUFFICIENT POWER OUTPUT (INCLUDING HUNTING)

Classification Main places for inspection and adjustment
1. Ignition timing [Point 2]
2. Vacuum advancer
3. Ignition circuit
Ignition 4. Governor controller
5. Vacuum pipe
6. Vacuum controller
7. Breaker plate
1. Air governor [Point 3]
Fuel 2. Carburetor
3. VCV inside air governer
1. Valve
2. Piston rings
Compression
3. Piston
4. Cylinder
1. Slipping of the clutch
Drivetrain [Point 1] 2. Slipping of the torque converter one-way clutch
(torque converter models only)

[Point 1]
Inspect the relief down speed
This is a test to see whether the lack of power output is on the engine side or on the drivetrain system side. If the
relief down engine speed is within the standard values, then the engine is normal and the drivetrain system needs to
be checked.
Note:
If the ignition timing is retarded, the engine speed will become slower during a torque converter stall test.
Do not mistake this for a reduction in stall speed (only torque converter vehicles).

[Point 2]
Generally if the ignition timing is retarded excessively, the vehicle after-fires, and tends to overheat easily. If the
ignition timing is advanced excessively, this tends to cause knocking and loss of power. With forklifts in particular, the
construction makes knocking unlikely to occur (the drive gear ratio is large), and therefore it becomes difficult to
recognise fault phenomena indicative of advanced timing.

[Point 3]
Adjust the air governor
If the relief down engine speed is faster than standard, or if the engine starts hunting, adjust the air governor. If power
output does not improve (the relief down is large) even after adjusting the air governor, the fault is in the governor
itself, or in the fuel system, ignition system, or compression system.
 1-9

ENGINE OVERHEATS
Classification Main places for inspection and adjustment
1. Governor controller
Ignition
2. Ignition timing
1. Cylinder head gasket
Compression 2. Cylinder head
3. Cylinder block
1. Coolant
2. V-belt
Cooling
3. Radiator [Point 1]
4. Thermostat

[Point 1]
Check for bubble formation inside radiator
When bubbles form in the radiator due to a fault in the cyclinder head, gasket, or cylinder block, the engine oil
becomes cloudy.
1-10

EXCESSIVE FUEL CONSUMPTION

Before beginning troubleshooting, ask the following questions and respond as necessary.
1. When did it start? (Since the vehicle was new, recently, since it has become colder etc.)
2. High fuel consumption compared with what? (The lift used previously, a similar vehicle, other manufacture’s lift
etc.)
3. What is the lift being used for? (Stacking and unloading cargo, carrying, in a small space, traveling distances etc.)
4. Others (Fuel, tyres, additional specifications, operating time, change in load, change of operator etc.)
1. Engine structure (compression ratio, improved fuel burning, cooling loss, mechanical
efficiency etc.)
2. Vehicle structure (vehicle weight, tyres, drivetrain system transmission efficiency, gear ratio
etc.)
Factors in high fuel
3. Conditions in the usage environment (weather, traveling environment, load environment,
consumption
operation method, altitude etc.)
4. Maintenance status of the engine and vehicle (ignition timing, air-fuel mixture, compression
pressure etc.)
5. Specification, differences in attachments (mast lift height, attachments, air conditioner)

Places for inspection and adjustment when fuel consumption has become greater than previously
Classification Main places for inspection and adjustment
1. Vacuum hose
Ignition 2. Vacuum advancer
3. Governor controller
1. Carburetor
Fuel 2. Leak in the fuel system
3. Choke valve
1. Valve
2. Piston rings
Compression
3. Piston
4. Cylinder
1. Slipping of the manual clutch
Drivetrain
2. Slipping of the torque converter one-way clutch
1. Brakes dragging
Braking 2. Brake automatic adjustment mechanism
3. Brake shoe return mechanism
1. Thermostat
Cooling
2. Coolant temperature [Point 1]

[Point 1]
If the temperature of the engine coolant becomes too high or too low, optimal fuel combustion cannot be achieved
and fuel consumption increases. In particular, if repeated traveling and loading is carried out when the engine is cold,
the combustion timing is delayed due to slow propagation speed of the air-fuel mixture, and because the gasoline
has poor vaporization, the engine may misfire, resulting in imperfect combustion and loss of engine output.
 1-11

ABNORMAL COMBUSTION
The abnormal noises and other noises caused by abnormal combustion in the engine are classified as follows:
1. Knocking
On sudden acceleration, or when the accelerator pedal is fully depressed, a high pitched "ping ping" knocking
sound is heard. This has a bad effect on the piston and valves, and will also damage the engine.
2. Run on
Even after the ignition key switch has been turned OFF, combustion continues in the combustion chamber, and
the engine continues to run erratically.
3. After fire
When travelling for a long time under engine braking, or when the accelerator pedal is suddenly released, a loud
"bang" is heard due to an explosion in the exhaust system, with flame being visible around the muffler.
4. Back fire
The combustion does not complete within the explosion cycle, and continues until the intake valve opens for the
next cycle, igniting the air-fuel mixture while it is still being intaken. This causes a back fire, in which the air-fuel
mixture in the intake manifold or carburetor explode.

Knocking
Classification Main places for inspection and adjustment
1. Ignition timing
2. Vacuum advancer
Ignition 3. Governor controller
4. Spark plugs
5. Carbon build-up in the combustion chamber

Run on
Phenomenon Main places for inspection and adjustment
1. Spark plugs
Ignition
2. Carbon build-up in the combustion chamber
1. Carburetor solenoid valve [Point 1]
Fuel
2. Idle speed

[Point 1]
Inspect the carburetor solenoid valve
Clicking With the engine stopped, when the ignition key switch is turned ON
sound and OFF, if a clicking sound is audible from the solenoid valve, then
electrically everything is normal.
For the defective valve inspection, if there is still run on when the
throttle valve is completely closed (idling), then it can be judged that
the sealing of the valve tip is defective.
1-12

After fire
Item Inspection content
Check the operation and adjustment of parts that might make the air-fuel mixture too rich.
• Air cleaner element clogging
Fuel, intake system • Idle adjusting screw too loose
• Float level too high?
• Too much choke (Autochoke mechanism defective)
Check the initial setting of the ignition timing and that the spark advance is operating normally.
• Is the timing too retarded when idling?
Ignition timing,
• Spark advance operation inspection (Do the vacuum advancer and the governer controller
spark advance
start operating a little late when the accelerator pedal is suddenly released?)
• Is the stationary plate not sliding well?
Correct the cause of any occasional missing of the ignition.
Are the specified spark plugs being used?
Spark plugs, ignition device
Inspect for soiling, wear or gap defect of the spark plugs.
Inspect for soiling or poor connections in the secondary circuit of the ignition system.

Back fire
Item Inspection content
Check the operation and adjustment of parts that might make the air-fuel mixture too lean.
• Float level too low?
• Insufficient ejection from the accelerator pump
• Power jet clogging
Fuel, intake system
• Power piston malfunction
• Choke valve malfunction (if it opens too early when cold, the mixture becomes lean)
• Idle adjusting screw too tight (air-fuel mixture in the slow speed system becomes too lean)
• Air being sucked in from the intake manifold
Inspect to see whether the ignition timing is too retarded.
Ignition timing, • Is the timing too retarded when idling?
spark advance • Timing control operation inspection (this occurs easily after engine O/H, or reinstalling of the
distributor - whenever the timing is extremely out)
Valve timing Is the valve timing out?
 1-13

ABNORMAL ENGINE NOISE, OR NOISY ENGINE

Further breakdown of abnormal noises, or excessive noise generation is as follows.
1. Noise that changes with operation of the clutch pedal
2. Noise that is often heard during idling
3. Noise that is often heard at a certain engine speed
4. Noise that is often heard regardless of engine speed

Noise that changes with operation of the clutch pedal

Operation Main causes
No change in the abnormal noise even when the clutch pedal
Seizure of the crankshaft thrust bearing
is depressed
Abnormal noise disappears when the clutch pedal is 1. Worn crankshaft thrust bearing
depressed 2. Transmission defect

Noise that is often heard during idling

Probable cause Example of sound Notes
Put a sound scope on the water pump body to check.
Defective water pump
Rasping sound • Remove the V-belt and turn the water pump by hand. If the turning feels
bearing
rough or bumpy to the hand, then the bearing is defective.
Squealing sound Apply engine oil from outside the seal, or spray an anti-squealing agent.
Oil seal squeal
Chirping sound • The sound becomes quieter or stops.
Put a sound scope near the timing gear cover to check.
• When the engine is warmed up, the sound can be heard clearly.
Camshaft thrust direction Gravely sound
When the engine is warm, if the engine is taken from idle to high speed, the
play Rattling sound
sound becomes small, or stops.
Inspect the sprocket gear runout.
Knocking sound
Put a sound scope on the camshaft bearing section to check.
Camshaft bearing wear Dull knocking
• The sound becomes quieter at high speed.
sound
Gravely sound
Defective chain tensioner This sound can be heard on startup and stops after a while.
Rattling sound
Put a sound scope on the distributor body to check.
If the rotor is turned clockwise by hand and released, it should return easily to
Wear inside the distributor Whirring sound its original position.
and the gears Clattering sound
Inspect the contact point of the center piece and the rotor.
Remove the distributor and inspect the gear.
Adjust the valve clearance.
Defective contact of the
Clicking sound Put a sound scope near the cylinder head valve to check.
valve and seat
• The sound becomes smaller or stops when the valve is sticking up.
Put a sound scope on the cylinder head to check.
Improper contact or
Clicking sound • This sound often occurs when a pushrod is not turning.
damage to the valve lifter
• Remove the lifter and inspect the contact surface.
Run out of oil on valve Grating sound The sound becomes smaller or stops if engine oil is applied, or if the valve
rocker arm Squeaking sound rocker arm position is shifted.
Check by depressing the clutch pedal.
Crankshaft Clattering sound • If the sound stops, there is too much play in the thrust direction.
thrust direction play Rasping sound When the clutch pedal is depressed, the crankshaft is pushed forwards and
the thrust play is reduced to nothing, so the noise stops.
1-14

Probable cause Example of sound Notes

Noise stops if the fuel pump is removed.
Fuel pump operation Pumping noise
noise "Pfft Pfft" noise A small noise is normal. Care should be taken as it can easily be mistaken for
another sound.
Inspect the intake manifold and air cleaner for appropriate installation.
Sucking noise
Air intake noise • Try plugging the place where the air gets in with engine oil, grease or cotton
Hissing noise
waste.

Noise that is often heard at a certain engine speed

Probable cause Example of sound Notes
The sound occurs on sudden acceleration from idle.
Belt slipping Squealing sound • Adjust the belt to the standard tension.
• Inspect the belt for wear, cracking and oil.
Contact noise of the
Whirring noise
alternator bearing or Check by removing the belt and turning the alternator by hand.
Grating noise
brush
The knocking sound is loud when the engine is cold, and grows quieter or
stops as the engine warms up.
Side knocking of the • Since auminum alloy pistons expand more than the cylinder, the piston
Knocking sound clearance grows smaller and the side knock grows smaller.
piston
If the spark plug is disconnected, the sound changes and generally grows
quieter.
This can be heard loudly from the bottom of the engine when accelerating
after warm-up or directly after acceleration.
Knocking of the
Knocking sound When the engine is at the speed when the knocking sound usually occurs
connecting rod bearing
(about 1000 rpm), if the spark plug is disconnected, the sound changes,
generally becoming quieter.
This can be heard loudly from the bottom of the engine when accelerating
after warm-up or directly after acceleration.
Crankshaft bearing
Knocking sound • The sound does not change even if the spark plug is disconnected.
knocking
• This is a somewhat lower, sharper sound than the connecting rod bearing
knocking.
The noise gets louder as the engine warms up, and is a harder sound than
the piston side knocking.
Knocking sound
Piston pin knocking When the engine is at the speed when the knocking sound usually occurs
Rattling sound
(about 1000 rpm), if the spark plug is disconnected, the knocking sound
changes.
Humming sound The noise stops when the belt is removed and the engine is running.
Unbalanced cooling fan
Whining sound • Check for bending of the fan, loose fit, or runout.
The sound becomes louder on sudden acceleration.
Loose set bolt on the Rattling sound The sound becomes quieter or stops when the clutch pedal is fully
flywheel Knocking sound depressed.
• The sound is similar to crankshaft bearing knocking, but it sounds harder.
Grating sound Put a sound scope on the timing chain cover to check.
Timing chain wear
Scraping sound The noise becomes louder if the engine is run at high speed.
 1-15

Noise that is often heard regardless of engine speed

Probable cause Example of sound Notes
Inspect for the presence of valve clearance using a thickness gauge.
Excess valve clearance or Clicking sound • If there is a clearance, the sound stops. In this case, correct the oil tappet.
faulty contact Clattering sound • If the sound does not stop, there is a defect in the contact of the rocker arm
and the valve.
Put a sound scope on the valve section to check.
Creaking sound
Valve sticking sound • The sound becomes quieter or stops if engine oil is applied, or an anti-
Squeaking sound
squealing agent is sprayed on.
A "raspberry" Check by holding a wet cloth to the spot on the exhaust system to plug where
Exhaust leak sound the leak is suspected to be.
A "put-put" sound • The noise becomes louder when the engine speed is increased.
Disconnect the spark plug to inspect.
• When disconnected, the sound becomes quieter or stops.
Apply oil to the cylinder head gasket and to the spark plug gasket attachment
Compression leak Hissing sound section to check.
• If there is a leak, the oil blows out.
If the gasket is destroyed, the combustion gas may leak into the cooling
system, causing bubbles to form in the top of the radiator
1-16

EXCESSIVE ENGINE OIL CONSUMPTION

A classification of oil consumption by the main phenomena is as follows:
1. Oil loss via the piston ring
This is when the oil that lubricates the cylinder walls gets into the combustion chamber.
After the engine has warmed up, after left idling or operated at about 1000 rpm for 4 to 5 minutes, if the engine
is raced, a large amount of white-purple exhaust is output for the first 30 to 60 seconds, thereafter tending to
become less. In this case, if left idling or operated at under 1000 rpm for another 4 to 5 minutes, then raced again,
the engine emits a large amount of white-purple exhaust again as before.
2. Oil loss via the valve guide
This is when the oil enters the combustion chamber from the clearance between the valve stem and the valve
guide.
After warming the engine, race it at about 2000 rpm and inspect the exhaust gas. At this time, a large amount
of white-purple exhaust gas is exhausted, and this output increases gradually if the engine speed is increased.
3. In-flow from the crankcase emission control system (PCV device)
Phenomenon Main places for inspection and adjustment
1. PCV valve
Leaking to the exterior of the engine
2. Engine body
1. Cylinder head
2. Cylinder block
Leaking to the interior of the engine 3. Head gasket
4. Oil loss via the piston ring [Point 1]
5. Oil loss via the valve guide [Point 2]

[Point 1]
Inspect for oil loss via the piston ring
A lot of carbon build-up will be visible around the top of the piston.

[Point 2]
Inspect for oil loss via the valve guide
This can be determined from the carbon build-up on the intake
valve head and on the top of the piston, and how wet with oil the
valve head is.