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FINISHED SIZE Approx. 10cm/ 4in tall

YARN
A Small amount 4-ply/ fingering weight I used Drops Nord-Mix shade 10 Lemongrass
B Small amount 4-ply/ fingering weight I used Drops Nord shade 01 Off-White

KNITTING NEEDLES Pair of 2mm/ US size 0 straight, single-point knitting needles

(NOTE: If you find 2mm a little too tight try knitting with 2.5mm needles instead)

GAUGE 16 rows and 11 stitches over 2.5cm with 2mm needles and yarn A

EXTRAS 7.5mm toy safety eyes with washer backs; Pack fine Armature Wire in 26
Gauge - you’ll need 3 x 36cm/ 14in lengths

SUPPLIERS
Drops Yarn I buy from here - Woolwarehouse.co.uk
Toy Safety Eyes I buy from here - CelloExpress.com
Armature Wire I buy from here - HeidiFeathers Etsy Shop

FROG!
Pattern by Claire Garland aka dotpebbles ©
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SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS: COLOURED MARKER GUIDE:

W+Tk bring working yarn to the front of the work, slip next stitch purl-wise onto This guide is here to pull out and use together with the pattern should you to
the RH needle, take working yarn to the back, slip the slipped stitch back onto the wish to use similar coloured guides to mine for ease of following, especially at the
LH needle, turn the knitting = W+Tk (wrap and turn knit) making-up stage:

W+Tp take working yarn to the back of the work, slip next stitch knit-wise onto the BABY PINK BACK
RH needle, bring working yarn to the front, slip the slipped stitch back onto the LH PINK BELLY
needle, turn the knitting = W+Tp (wrap and turn purl)
PATTERN NOTES & TIPS:
. I cast on with Cable Cast On Method but you can use your regular cast-on method
GENERAL ABBREVIATIONS:
if desired
K = knit
P = purl . WIRE: I found the best wires to create an armature with are paper-wrapped

inc = increase (easier to handle) ones - the best gauge for this project being 26 which is fine and

dec = decrease really malleable so easy to bend and which I used for the legs and body

K2tog/ K3tog = knit two together/ knit three together

P2tog/ P3tog = purl two together/ purl three together
RH/LH = right hand/ left hand RS/WS = right side/ wrong side
st/ sts =stitch/ stitches
Skpo = slip one stitch, knit next stitch, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch to decrease
by one stitch
Kfb = knit into front then into back of stitch to increase by one stitch
Pfb = Purl into front then knit into back of stitch to increase by one stitch
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BACK & BELLY - Beginning at Back Rear End Row 13 dec) K3, skpo, k8, k2tog, k3 - 16sts
With yarn A cast on 3 sts Row 14 Purl
Row 1 RS) inc) Kfb, k1, kfb - 5sts Row 15 dec) K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog - 14sts
Row 2. Purl Row 16 Purl
Row 3 inc) [Kfb, k1] twice, kfb - 8sts Row 17 dec) K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog - 12sts
Row 4. Purl Row 18 Purl
Row 5 inc) Kfb, k1, kfb, k2, kfb, k1, kfb - 12sts Row 19 inc) K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1 - 14sts
Row 6. Purl Row 20 Purl
Row 7 inc) Kfb, k1, kfb, k6, kfb, k1, kfb - 16sts Row 21 inc) K2, kfb, k1, kfb, k4, kfb, k1, kfb, k2 - 18sts
Row 8 Purl
Work short rows for frog’s Left Eye
Work short rows to create the Back Ridge - Side 1 Short row 1 P8, W+Tp
Short row 1 K5, W+Tk (Wrap and Turn knit - see Page 2) Short row 2 K6, W+Tk
Short row 2 P3, W+Tp (Wrap and Turn purl - see Page 2)
Short row 3 P5, W+Tp
Short row 3 K2, W+Tk
Short row 4 K4 W+Tk
Short row 4 P1, W+Tp
Short row 5 P3 W+Tp
Short row 5 K13 to end of row
Short row 6 K2 W+Tk
Work short rows to create the Back Ridge - Side 2 Short row 7 P14 to end
Short row 1 P5, W+Tp
Work short rows for frog’s Right Eye
Short row 2 K3, W+Tk
Short row 1 K8, W+Tk
Short row 3 P2, W+Tp
Short row 2 P6, W+Tp
Short row 4 K1, W+Tk
Short row 3 K5 W+Tk
Short row 5 P13 to end of row
Short row 4 P4 W+Tp
Row 9 Kfb, k3, skpo, k4, k2tog, k3, kfb Short row 5 K3 W+Tk
Row 10 Purl Short row 6 P2 W+Tp
Row 11 inc) K3, kfb, k8, kfb, k3 - 18sts Short row 7 dec) K4, k2tog, k8 to end of row - 17sts
Row 12 Purl.
Row 22 dec) P2tog, purl to last 2 sts, p2tog - 15sts
PM (Place Marker) on first and last stitch of last row for Left and Right Back
Row 23 dec) K3, skpo, k5, k2tog, k3 to end of row - 13sts
Markers
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Row 24 Purl Short row 5 K9, W+Tk

Row 25 dec) K3, skpo, k3, k2tog, k3 to end of row - 11sts Short row 6 P8, W+Tp
Row 26 dec) P2tog, purl to last 2 sts, p2tog - 9sts Short row 7 K11 to end of the row
Row 27 dec) K2, skpo, k1, k2tog, k2 to end of row - 7sts Row 42 Purl
Row 28 dec) P1, p2tog, p1, p2tog, p1 - 5sts PM on first and last stitch of last row for Left and Right Belly Markers
Work short rows to create the Nose Front Row 43 dec) K3, skpo, k4, k2tog, k3 - 12sts
Short row 1 K4, W+Tk Rows 44-46 Beginning with a purl row work three rows stocking stitch
Short row 2 P3, W+Tp Row 47 dec) K2, skpo, k4, k2tog, k2 - 10sts
Short row 3 dec) K3tog, k1 to end of row - 3sts Row 48 dec) P2tog, purl to last 2 sts, p2tog - 8sts
Row 49 dec) Skpo, k4, k2tog - 6sts
Cut yarn A, join yarn B and continue to work frog’s Throat as follows:
Row 50 dec) P2tog, p2, p2tog - 4sts
Row 29 Purl
Row 51 dec) K1, k2tog, k1 - 3sts
Row 30 inc) Kfb, k1, kfb - 5sts
Cast off all 3 Belly Rear End sts purl-wise.
Row 31 Purl
Row 32 inc) Kfb, k3, kfb - 7sts Add Eyes
Row 33 Purl Find the Eye Bumps - pushing your little finger/ pinky, into the bumps from WS to
Row 34 inc) Kfb, k5, kfb - 9sts push out the bumps.
Row 35 dec) P2, p2tog, p1, p2tog, p2 - 7sts Wiggle the toy eyes into the side of the bumps making sure both eyes are
Row 36 Knit symmetrical before securing with the toy eye backing. - See Fig. 1
Row 37 inc) Pfb, purl to last st, pfb - 9sts
Row 38 inc) K3, kfb, k1, kfb, k3 - 11sts
Row 39 Purl
Row 40 inc) K3, kfb, k1, kfb, k1, kfb, k3 - 14sts
Row 41 Purl

Work short rows to create the Belly

Short row 1 K13, W+Tk
Short row 2 P12, W+Tp
Short row 3 K11, W+Tk
Short row 4 P10, W+Tp

FIG. 1
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JOIN BODY SEAMS Adding a Wire Armature - OPTIONAL

Belly to Back Seam 1. Push all of your yarn endings into the lower back/ back.
WS together, fold the Nose over at the colour change/ nose front/ chin. 2. Take one fine (26 gauge/ 36cm/ 14in length) wire and join the two ends together to
Working on one side at a time, match the Belly Marker to Back Marker make a circle.
and work a stitch to hold in place. 3. Squash the circle together then bend in half (so reducing the 36cm/ 14in wire by a
Match then mattress stitch to join Rear End Cast-On Edge to Belly Rear quarter).
End Cast-Off Edge. 4. Twist the wire in the centre to create a spoon shape top and bottom then bend one
Then, ease together and work mattress stitch to join lower belly to back of the spoons over as the photo shows. – See Fig. 3
row ends from the rear end seam to belly/ back markers. - See Fig. 2 for 5. Fit one of the spoon shapes into the head and the other into the rear end adding
the Left Belly to Back Seam, join dotted lines A to B stuffing in and around the armature. – See Fig. 4
Remove Belly and Back Markers.

REAR END CAST ON EDGE

BELLY REAR END CAST OFF EDGE
THE FOLD SEAM
AT THE NOSE

FIG. 3 FIG. 4
B
A Throat and Upper Belly to Head and Back Seam - for both with and without
armature
To complete the body and head seams, ease together and work mattress stitch to
LEFT LEFT join upper belly and throat row ends to back and head. - See Fig. 5 for the Left Upper
BELLY MARKER BACK MARKER
Belly/ Throat to Back/ Head Seam, join dotted lines C to D

FIG. 2
D
C
FIG. 5
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MOUTH FORELEGS - NOTE: there is another longer-limb version on Pages 18-19 and
Beginning at the frog’s Right-Side Head, with yarn A, pick up and knit a single stitch an i-cord version on Page 20-21
into knitted stitches, near the Right Eye (see Fig. 6, A), at the head seam that runs The Forelegs are knitted independently then sewn onto the body as follows:
along the side of the right side of the head; then *knit into and cast off* all along the Make 2 alike
seam until you get to a knitted stitch near the Left Eye. With yarn A cast on 11 sts
* To ‘knit into and cast off ’ - with your left needle pick up a stitch then with your right Rows 1-5. Beginning with a purl row work five rows stocking stitch
needle knit it then cast off so you only ever have a single stitch on the right needle. - Row 6. (dec) Cast off first 7 sts, k3 to end of row – 4sts
See Figs. 7 & 8 Row 7. Purl
Weave in the tail ends. Cast off all 4 sts for Top of the Foreleg.
NOTE: If you didn’t want to work the mouth this way then simple sew on a crochet chain
HIND LEGS - NOTE: there is another longer-limb version on Page 18
The Hind Legs are knitted independently then sewn onto the body as follows:
Make 2 alike
With yarn A cast on 16 sts
Rows 1-7. Beginning with a purl row work seven rows stocking stitch
Row 8. (dec) Cast off first 10 sts, k5 to end of row – 6sts
Row 9. Purl
A Cast off all 6 sts for Top of the Hind Leg. See Fig. 9

FIG. 6

THEN KNIT
IT WITH
THIS NEEDLE
AND CAST
PICK UP OFF THE
WITH THIS STITCH
NEEDLE

FIG. 7 FIG. 8
& FIG. 8 FIG. 9
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Armature Add the Knitted Forelegs to the Wire Claw Armatures

1. Take two fine (26 gauge) wires and cut each in half so you have 4 lengths. Lay the claw armature onto the WS/ purl-side of the knitted foreleg and
2. Working with one of the four wires at a time, take some stick glue (similar to enclose it by mattress stitching the cast-on and cast-off edges from the
Pritt) and smear almost all of the wire with the glue (leave about 2.5cm/ 1 inch knitted foreleg together. – See Fig. 13
free of glue at each end). NOTE: I found it easier to start the mattress stitching first for a few rows
3. Wind yarn A round and around the tacky part of the wire in a single layer to then slipping the armature into the tube before completing the foreleg
cover the glued wire (it’s actually easier to twizzle the wire against the yarn). – back seam.
See Fig. 10 Work around the row end edge that’s nearest to the foot to neatly join the
4. Bend the covered wire, as the photo shows, to make three digits, then twist knitted leg to the wired foot.
the remaining ends of wire together to neaten (NOTE: the foreleg digits and NOTE: You will have some wire sticking out from the top of the leg – this
slightly shorter than the hind leg digits) . – See Fig. 11 you will poke into the body when you attach leg to body as follows:
5. Squeeze the wire digits together with your fingers to close the bent loops.
6. Take another length of yarn C and wrap neatly around the foot and in
between the digits to create a solid looking webbed foot. – See Fig. 12

FIG. 10 FIG. 11 FIG. 12

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Add the Knitted Forelegs to the Wire Claw Armatures Attach the Forelegs to the Body
Lay the claw armature onto the WS/ purl-side of the knitted foreleg and enclose *Adjust the leg seam so that it sits under the foreleg then place the row
it by mattress stitching the cast-on and cast-off edges from the knitted foreleg
end edge, that’s on the other side to the foot, against the body, referring to
together. – See Fig. 13, join dotted lines A to B over the wrapped and twisted wire
the photographs for placement. – See Fig. 14, 15, 16 , 17, 18 & 19
NOTE: I found it easier to start the mattress stitching first for a few rows then
slipping the armature into the tube before completing the foreleg back seam. Poke the extra wires into the body at the marker, making sure they sit well
Work around the row end edge that’s nearest to the foot to neatly join the into the stuffing. And with you yarn endings you can either thread them
knitted leg to the wired foot. back into the leg or into the body or carefully trim them flush with the top
NOTE: You will have some wire sticking out from the top of the leg – this you of the leg. – See Fig. 19
will poke into the body when you attach leg to body as follows: Work over-stitch around the top of the leg to join leg top to body**.

Attach the Hind Legs to the Body

Attach as Foreleg from * to **.

A
B

WRAPPED
& TWISTED WIRE

FIG. 13 FIG. 14
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FIG. 15

FIG. 17

FIG. 19

FIG. 16

FIG. 18
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This is a version for slightly longer limbs:

FORELEGS
The Forelegs are knitted independently then sewn onto the body as
follows:
Make 2 alike
With yarn A cast on 13 sts
Rows 1-3. Beginning with a purl row work three rows stocking stitch
Row 4. (dec) Cast off first 9 sts, k3 to end of row – 4sts
Row 5. Purl
Cast off all 4 sts for Top of the Foreleg.

HIND LEGS
The Hind Legs are knitted independently then sewn onto the body as
follows:
Make 2 alike
With yarn A cast on 20 sts FOR THE OCHRE FROG WITH THE LONGER LIMBS:
Rows 1-5. Beginning with a purl row work five rows stocking stitch FINISHED SIZE Approx. 12.5cm/ 5in tall
Row 6. (dec) Cast off first 14 sts, k5 to end of row – 6sts
YARN
Row 7. Purl
Cast off all 6 sts for Top of the Hind Leg. See Fig. 9, Page 11 A Small amount 4-ply/ fingering weight I used Drops Alpaca shade 7233
Olive Mix

Also, when joining the knitted leg to the wire armature I allowed the B Small amount 4-ply/ fingering weight I used Drops Nord shade 01 Off-
yarn to wrap itself - this means that the purl-side become RS - just White
creating another version
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This is a free pattern link to an i-cord version:

https://mcusercontent.com/fbb5cf7d2cfc0c4aa23bd8682/
files/893c3983-82a6-7476-6f58-d8feb108a40b/FROG_I_CORD_
LIMBS.pdf
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