CENTER FOR DAIRY RESEARCH

DAIRY PIPELINE
A TECHNICAL RESOURCE FOR DAIRY MANUFACTURERS WINTER 2020 | VOL. 31, No. 4

ESSENTIAL PRINCIPLES OF CHEESEMAKING (PART 2):

MEASURING AND CONTROLLING ACIDITY AND MOISTURE

In the last issue of the Dairy Pipeline, we covered how we’re concentrating fat, we’re concentrating protein, and
to establish and maintain a starter culture program. we’re using up a large majority of the lactose retained in
In this article, we’re discussing how to measure and the curd to develop a significant amount of lactic acid,
control acidity and moisture during the cheesemaking which drops the pH,” Sommer said.
process. This article is part two of a two-part article that
takes a deep dive into some essential principles that Milk has a pH of about 6.6-6.7, but during
cheesemakers of all levels should know in order to make cheesemaking acid is developed and the pH drops,
consistent, quality cheese. i.e. Cheddar has a pH of about 5.1. The cheesemaking
process also reduces the moisture content—milk
Part 1: Establishing and Maintaining a Starter typically has a moisture content of about 87% whereas
Culture Program (last issue) Cheddar has a moisture content of about 38%.
Part 2: Measuring and Controlling Acidity and
Moisture During the Cheesemaking Process

Why Measure Acidity and Moisture?

“All cheesemakers should be monitoring acidity and
moisture because they drive how the cheese is going to
turn out,” explains Andy Johnson, outreach specialist/
assistant coordinator, CDR Cheese Industry and
Applications group.

Dean Sommer, CDR cheese and food technologist,

agrees, “Controlling acidity and moisture content—
those are two of the really big keys to successful
cheesemaking. A lot of cheese defects are from
improper moisture content and improper rate and
extent of acid development.”

Cheesemaking is ultimately a concentration process that

involves monitoring and controlling multiple factors
and reactions. “We’re reducing the moisture content, Andy Johnson, CDR, measuring pH during the cheesmaking process.

DAIRY R However, cheesemaking isn’t just about reaching a final

OR moisture level or pH, it’s about controlling the loss of
What's Inside:
CENTER F

ES

moisture and the rate and extent of acid development.

E ARCH

♦ Tricks of the Trade: Formulating Dairy Protein

Beverages As cheesemakers say, “The journey matters.” Therefore,
♦ CDR Article on Lactose Standardization Receives it’s important to measure and control acid development
Special Recognition and the process of moisture reduction during cheese
CDR ♦ Cheese Expo 2020, Milwaukee, WI, April 14-16
♦ Experienced Cheesemakers Join CDR
manufacture. Acid and moisture impact the flavor,
microbiological content, and structure/texture/body of
the cheese. Æ

B University of Wisconsin – Madison, College of Agricultural and Life Sciences b

Why Keep Records? concentration of hydrogen ions. A neutral pH is 7.0
A good cheesemaker is also a good record keeper. This is (water). A low pH, like 3.0, is very acidic (orange juice).
especially true when it comes to measuring and recording A high pH, like 12, is very basic (caustic soda). As
acidity during cheesemaking. mentioned, milk typically has a pH of 6.6-6.7.

“If you have a defect or run into a problem with One important aspect of the pH scale is that it is
your cheese, it’s almost impossible to figure out logarithmic. For example, a pH of 5.0 is 10 times more
what happened if you don’t have a record of the pH acidic than 6.0. “What this means to a cheesemaker is
development,” Johnson said. that if you’re shooting for a 5.2 pH and you get a 5.4—
that’s a big deal,” Johnson said. “And if you’re shooting
Cheesemakers need to be able to go back and look at for a 5.2 and get a 5.5 or 5.6 that’s a huge deal. You’ve
their records to see the “journey” that their cheese took basically made a different cheese. Tenths of a pH unit
during the cheesemaking process. Johnson recommends make a difference in cheesemaking.”
that cheesemakers detail all observations (not just
pH), especially if something is abnormal like odor Most cheesemakers measure pH by using a pH meter
or the color. Record the milk quality measurements, (Potentiometric Method). A pH meter is composed of
heat-treatment (time/temperature) and starter growth a pH electrode (probe) connected to a voltmeter (pH
conditions. Keep detailed records during manufacture of meter). How does a pH meter work? Two electrodes
the pH, temperature, time, and curd firmness. Ideally, all (housed in one probe) form a circuit and measure the
batches of cheese would be tested for composition and voltage output from the hydrogen ions. Then the pH
microbiological quality meter translates the voltage output into a pH value.

Issues with Improper Acid development The pros of pH meters are that they are highly accurate
Again, a lot of common defects seen in cheese are related if calibrated correctly and easy to operate. They also
to an improper rate and extent of acid development (too compensate for temperature, which can impact pH
little, too much, too fast, too slow). Here are some of the accuracy. The cons of a pH meter are that pH probes
characteristics associated with excessive or inadequate do require regular cleaning and calibration otherwise
acidity. readings will be inaccurate. Also, good meters and probes
are expensive, and any needed repairs or replacement
Excessive acidity (low pH) characteristics of parts will also be costly (probes are typically a few
cheese: Short/brittle body in dry hard cheese. Pasty hundred dollars). There are less expensive models that
body in soft cheeses. Grainy texture and acid (bitter) cheesemakers can successfully use but these are not ideal
flavor. Cheese loses serum, which results in sweating. to work with and will need to be replaced every year or
The cheese is more prone to developing calcium lactate so. When purchasing a pH meter, you also need to keep
crystals and microorganisms at the surface of the cheese in mind that separate probes are needed for milk or whey
(rind rot if packaged). A common underlying cause of and cheese.
these issues is excessive starter activity.
Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for
Inadequate acidity (high pH) characteristics
probe care and maintenance (proper storage will extend
of cheese: There is a food safety concern (pH>5.6).
the life of your probe and maximize its performance).
The curds may
One tip is to never store the probe in distilled or
not knit very well.
deionized water—this will cause ions to leach out of the
A short, crumbly
glass bulb of the electrode and will eventually ruin it.
cheese body and a
CDR recommends that the probe be stored in a solution
tough, curdy texture.
of 4M KCl (never store the probe dry).
Can result in poor
functionality/melt/ Taking a pH Reading
stretch. Underlying The process of taking the pH of milk/whey or curd
cause: excess calcium Curdy Parmesan (inadequate acid development). is relatively simple although it is important to do it
remaining bound to correctly. To take a pH reading of a liquid sample (milk or
the casein (more on whey), first take the probe out of the storage solution and
this later). rinse it with distilled water, blot it dry (with a laboratory
wipe like Kimwipes or similar), immerse the probe in
Measuring and Recording Acidity
the milk or whey and gently stir the milk/whey with the
What is pH exactly? pH is a measurement of the
probe and keep agitating it with the probe until the meter Æ

2
reaches a stable reading. Then take the probe out of the As a cheesemaker, if you have to pick one (pH or TA) it
milk, rinse the probe and return it to the storage solution. is recommended that you use pH because pH will give a
more consistent reading between cheesemakers and a pH
Taking a pH reading of a curd sample is similar. First you meter is able to measure the pH of liquids (milk/whey)
take the probe, (a spear tip probe for solids) out of the and solids (curd). Some cheesemakers who use high
storage solution, rinse it and blot it dry. Then get your solids milk will use both because TA will indicate starter
curd sample and squeeze it to get as much whey out of activity sooner than pH. Milks high in calcium phosphate
it as possible. Insert the probe into the cheese and hold may show little change in pH but a large change in TA.
the probe in the cheese until the reading stabilizes. Once
you have a reading, remove the probe, rinse it, blot it dry
and return it to the storage solution. For more details Role of Acidification in Cheesemaking
on taking accurate pH reading, you can refer to the As discussed in the last issue of the Dairy Pipeline
book “Standard Methods for the Examination of Dairy (“Part 1: Essential Principles of Cheesemaking: Starter
Products” Wehr and Frank, 2004. Cultures”) acid development drives the cheesemaking
process. Acid development occurs because the starter
One issue cheesemakers face is the question of bacteria ferment the lactose in the milk and produce
whether to record pH for both whey and curd. Some lactic acid, which drives the necessary reactions for
cheesemakers measure the pH of the whey, some do the cheesemaking. One of those reactions is that the lactic
curd, and some, like CDR, record both. acid solubilizes colloidal calcium phosphate and thus
helps determine the level of calcium in the cheese curd
“You probably do not need to measure both whey and and the ratio of soluble to colloidal calcium. These
curd, but one thing to keep in mind is that you need to factors, in turn, greatly influence cheese texture and
be consistent in which you measure because they are functionality. Acidity also impacts the activity of the
different,” Johnson said. “Typically, the curd pH is .1 to coagulant during manufacture and ripening. Acidity
.2 lower than the whey.” If a cheesemaker adds water or promotes syneresis (expulsion of moisture from the
rinses the curd, pH measurement of the curd is desired. cheese curd) and therefore has a large impact on cheese
composition, particularly the moisture content of the
The curd is usually lower in pH because the curd is where cheese. The lactic acid also
the starter bacteria are creating the acid and releasing it influences the activity of ACID PRODUCTION
into the whey. One advantage of measuring both curd enzymes during ripening
and, hence, affects cheese
Lactose
and whey is that you can get a good indication of how fast
your acidification is going based on the how far apart the flavor and quality. Finally,
pH is of the whey and curd. acidity helps control or
prevent the growth of
+ Energy
(Starter cultures)
Titratable Acidity spoilage or pathogenic
Before pH meters, cheesemakers used a titrator or microorganisms.
acidometer to measure titratable acidity (TA) of milk
or whey. Titratable acidity is related to pH in that the Acid takes time to develop Lactic Acid
more acid developed, the higher the TA. TA is also a during the cheesemaking
measurement of the buffer capacity of the milk or whey. process—the starter
Of interest to cheesemakers is the calcium phosphates, cultures need time to ferment or consume the lactose.
which have a direct effect on the buffering capacity of So, at the beginning the pH is higher but it drops during
the milk. The more casein in milk, the more calcium cheesemaking. As mentioned, lactose is the fuel for acid
phosphate. Since the calcium phosphate is the main development—the more lactose, the more lactic acid
buffer in milk and TA measures buffer capacity, a higher that can be produced. Fortifying the cheese milk with
TA sometimes is not associated with more acid. It is the extra lactose containing solids (condensed skim, NDM)
change in TA over time (more starter culture activity) will add more lactose to the system, allowing for more
that the cheesemaker needs to monitor. lactic acid to be produced, resulting in a lower pH cheese.
Conversely, cheesemakers can remove some lactose
Additionally, if you have a seasonal milk source, casein from the milk by using ultrafiltration (UF) and adding
and calcium phosphate will change throughout the back water into the UF milk. This will help remove some
season so TA is a good way to monitor these changes lactose from the system, resulting in less of a pH drop in
in the milk. The actual process of taking a TA reading is the cheese. CDR has been promoting this method as a
more complicated than taking a pH reading. strategy to avoid making “acid cheese.” Æ

3
“One of the single biggest cheese defects we’re seeing is Measuring Acidity During Cheesemaking before
acid cheese,” Sommer said. “We’re doing a lot of work Coagulant Addition
using ultrafiltered cheese milk and diluting it with water. Cheese A Cheese B
This brings down the ratio of lactose to protein. So, there’s
pH at Coagulant Addition 6.50 6.35
less lactose in the system and you don’t develop acidy
pH at Draining 6.35 6.10
cheese.”
Final pH 5.20 5.20
Acid Development During Cheesemaking Cheese Performance Curdy Less curdy, better shred
Now, let’s get into acid development during the Note: More acid development before coagulant addition = greater
cheesemaking process. Again, it is critical to measure demineralization and lower buffering capacity.
and record the acidity during the cheesemaking process
(including during aging and of the final cheese). This This also brings up an important point regarding the
is where a good make sheet with a lot of data points is development of “wet” versus “dry” acid. As mentioned,
crucial. For example, at a minimum, cheesemakers should wet acid is developed early in the cheesemaking process
be recording pH of the initial milk, before adding the and up to the point that the whey is drained. Dry acid
coagulant, at cut, during milling/salting and hooping/ is developed after the whey has been drained and the
brining. We also need to continue recording the pH cheese is moved to hoops or forms (the acid is developed
during ripening /aging at day 1 and so on. when the cheese is “dry”). The wet and dry acid dynamic
is an important concept for cheesemakers to understand.
It’s important to measure the pH of the initial milk For instance, let’s say we are making Cheddar. Sommer
because you want to know the “starting point” of the says he wants the pH to be 5.4 when the Cheddar is going
cheese. The pH of the initial milk will give an indication into the hoop because a lower pH reading at this point
of the quality of the milk. For instance, if the pH reading shows that he has created wet acid (pH has lowered)
of the milk is high (more than 6.8) this is likely a sign of before the whey was drained. However, Sommer said
mastitis. If this is the case, you will want to monitor the that a lot of cheesemakers rely on dry acid and will hoop
somatic cell count of the milk. Recording the pH of the their Cheddar when it has a pH between 5.8-6.0. “I’d run
initial milk is helpful in other ways as well. For instance, screaming out of the door if I saw that,” Sommer said.
pasteurization slightly lowers the pH, also the stage of Why? Because, if a cheesemaker develops acid in the
lactation will impact pH and the type of milk (seasonal milk or curd/whey (wet acid) then a lot of the lactic acid
milk, sheep or goat milk) will also impact pH. In general, will go in the whey and will be removed when the whey
if the pH of the initial milk is off, you will want to is drained. Conversely, if acid is developed in the hoop
investigate why. (dry acid) where will that lactic acid go? It will stay in the
cheese. This results in an acid Cheddar that is more likely
Creating Wet Acid to develop a bitter taste, whey taint flavors, and defects
The next point in the cheesemaking process when it is like calcium lactate crystals.
important to know (and record) pH is before adding
the coagulant. This is when the cheesemaker is creating Cheesemakers next need to record pH when draining
“wet acid.” It’s called “wet acid” because you are creating the vat. As described previously, this pH reading will
acid before draining the whey. Monitoring acid at this let the cheesemaker see if they have developed the right
point is important because wet acid development has the amount of acid, depending on whether they were trying
greatest impact on calcium solubilization. A lower pH to develop wet acid or if they are relying on more dry
before coagulant addition will allow more calcium to be acid development. When draining the vat, we are taking
solubilized (removed) from the casein (this also results in lactose away from the bacteria, which will slow down acid
a higher moisture cheese). For example, we can have two development.
cheeses that both have a final pH of 5.2. Even though they
have the same final pH, one has a curdy texture and the If making a milled or stirred curd cheese, you will want
other has a nicer, less curdy body that allows for an easier to measure pH before milling and before salt addition,
shred. The difference is that the curdy cheese had a pH of respectively. Knowing acid development before adding
6.5 at coagulant addition compared to the nicer cheese, salt will allow you to better target final pHs in your cheese
which had a pH of 6.35 at coagulant addition. “That’s as some cultures are inhibited by salt.
the power of creating wet acid where you’re solubilizing
calcium,” Johnson says. This also illustrates how a “small” For a brined cheese, whether you’re pumping the curd
variation in pH (6.5 compared to 6.35) can have a big into a pre-press or taking it right out of the vat to hoops,
impact on the final cheese. you want to measure an acidification point at hooping
because at this step you’re basically switching from Æ

4
forming wet to dry acid formation. It’s important to get Strategies to Influence Moisture Content
this acid reading for eyed cheeses as typically you want a Like acid, cheesemakers need to monitor and control the
lot of unsolubilized calcium in the curd with these styles moisture content of the cheese. Moisture content impacts
of cheese. the quality and safety of the cheese and even a small
change (± 1%) can have a negative impact on the final
Buffering—Loss of Insoluble Calcium cheese.
Tracking and recording pH doesn’t stop when the cheese
is out of the vat. It’s very important to record the pH Typically, cheese with too much moisture will have a
history during post-manufacture because you want to weak body and pasty texture. There may also be food
find the lowest terminal pH that the cheese reaches. “That safety concerns because more moisture results in a higher
[lowest terminal pH] is going to determine a lot of the water activity (aw), which results in more microbial
final characteristics of your cheese,” Johnson said. It’s also growth (bad) and an increase in proteolysis (good
important to record the cheese pH after manufacture depending on cheese type).
because this is when the cheese pH is going to “buffer.”
In other words, this is when the pH will reach its lowest Cheese with lower moisture levels can result in a hard,
point and then buffer back up until it reaches its final pH. firm, corky body and texture. These cheeses have lower
aw and higher salt-in-the-moisture-phase resulting
Buffering occurs because, as cheese ripens or ages, in decreased microbial growth (good) but also less
the hydrogen ions in the cheese displace the calcium proteolytic activity (bad depending on cheese type).
ions and “disappear” or are absorbed into the cheese
matrix. This causes there to be less free hydrogen ions Depending on the milk composition, you may need
in the cheese and therefore raises the pH. To track the to adjust the moisture content. “As your milk changes,
cheese’s buffering and pH history post-manufacture, other parameters change; you’re going to have to change
typically the pH is taken at 4 hours, 1 day, 1 week, 2 your moisture content to match that,” Johnson says. For
weeks, 4 weeks, and 3 months. Of course, there is a lot of example, if you have higher levels of fat, you will need
variation considering the type of cheese being made. The to adjust moisture level down to compensate for that
cheese pH history post manufacture will help indicate if otherwise you might get pasty, weak bodied cheese.
anything is going wrong with the cheese. For example,
if making a Blue cheese, the lowest terminal pH will be Of course, different cheeses require different moisture
around 4.8 and then buffer up to a pH of about 6.0. If contents. The make for an aged Cheddar is different than
the lowest terminal pH drops to 5.0, it’s going to be a a young Cheddar. For an aged Cheddar, the moisture
different cheese in terms of flavor and texture. It will ripen content needs to be 35-37% (depending on how long the
faster. cheese will be aged) to give the cheese the best chance to
develop the correct body, texture and flavor. See page 8
for some strategies to influence moisture content.
Continued on page 8 Æ

Strategies to Control Acid Development

Culture: Increasing the amount of culture used during the cheese make will increase the rate of acidification and help develop more wet acid.
Prolong stirring: The cheesemaker can develop more wet acid by prolonging the stirring of the curd after cooking, which will give the starter
cultures more time to ferment lactose and develop more lactic acid and firm the curd body. This will produce a lower pH cheese. However, it will
also lower the moisture content.
Replace some whey with water: Cheesemakers can produce a cheese with less acid (higher pH) by removing some of the whey prior to
cooking and replacing the whey with water, which removes some of the lactose (which drives acid development).
Increase cooking temperature: This will slow down acid development by shutting down mesophilic cultures (don’t grow in high
temperatures) and less acid will be produced. It will increase acid development by thermophilic cultures.
Cool down curd: Lowering the temperature of the curd with cool water will slow down the starter cultures and remove some of the lactose,
which will result in a higher pH cheese. This also allows for a more open body cheese (i.e. Colby).
Salt: In addition to promoting moisture loss and controlling microbial growth, salt acts as a “brake” on starter culture activity/acid production.
Salt is especially effective at slowing down Streptococcus thermophilus.

5
TRICKS OF THE TRADE: FORMULATING DAIRY PROTEIN BEVERAGES
Technical reviewer: KJ Burrington, CDR stable essentially have two processing options— retort
Dairy protein beverages are an exciting area for the and ultra high temperature (UHT). Retort is a very high
dairy industry. Innovative new products are hitting the temperature treatment (250-300°F) for a long amount
shelves and consumers are beginning to appreciate the of time (20-40 minutes). Retort products are shelf stable
nutritional value of beverages made with dairy proteins. and are typically in bottles or cans. UHT processing is a
Additionally, there is room in the market for more dairy high temperature (above 275°F) treatment but for a very
beverage products. short time (2 to 5 seconds). UHT is also shelf stable if
it is aseptically packaged in cartons or bottles. There is
However, when developing these beverages, it also one “in between” processing option for low
is important to have a good understanding acid beverages: extended shelf life (ESL).
of the functionality of different dairy These products undergo the UHT process
protein ingredients. For more than 20 but are not packaged aseptically. ESL is
years, the Center for Dairy Research’s currently used for some low acid filtered
Beverage Applications Program has milk products and coffee drinks and
been a leader in helping companies require refrigeration.
and entrepreneurs develop dairy
protein beverages. Staff are well For shelf stable high acid beverages,
versed in using milk and whey the typical processing option is
protein ingredients, as well as non- hot fill. During the hot fill process,
protein dairy ingredients such as the beverage is heated >180F for up
permeate. to 2 minutes, filled hot into the bottle
and then cooled. Of course, high acid
High Acid or Low Acid? beverages pose less pathogen risk than low
In the beverage world, there are two acid beverages. Even if a pathogen is present
categories—low acid and high acid. A low in a high acid beverage it will die off very quickly
acid beverage is typically anything above pH because of the low pH. Another processing option
4.6. A high acid beverage is anything below pH for high acid beverages is basic pasteurization. Some
4.6. According to KJ Burrington, CDR’s smoothie products are pasteurized. However,
Dairy Ingredients, Beverages & Cultured these products require refrigeration.
Products Coordinator, when a company or
entrepreneur works with CDR on a beverage, Which Ingredient to Use?
her first question is what’s the pH? Once the pH and the processing conditions are
determined, then it’s time to select a dairy protein
Selecting a pH is especially important when developing a ingredient.
beverage using dairy proteins. Generally speaking, whey
protein ingredients work best in high acid beverages “For high acid beverages, we almost always recommend
and milk protein ingredients have better functionality whey proteins because they have better solubility
in low acid beverages. Depending on the pH, stabilizers and heat stability at that pH [below 4.6],” Burrington
might be needed to add stability to the dairy protein. For said. “Most low acid beverages are in the pH range of
instance, a whey protein isolate can be used to develop a 6-7, so we will always recommend milk proteins over
clear high acid beverage. However, if the beverage has a whey because milk proteins are going to have the best
“mid-range” pH (between 3.5 and 4.5), a stabilizer like solubility and heat stability in that pH range."
pectin might be needed because the whey proteins are
closer to their isoelectric point and a stabilizer like pectin Examples of whey proteins include whey protein
will help prevent aggregation of the whey proteins during concentrates (WPC), whey protein isolates (WPI), and
the heat process. The level of acidity plays a big role in the milk-derived whey. Milk proteins include milk protein
development of a beverage. concentrates (MPC), milk protein isolates (MPI), and
micellar casein.
Processing Conditions
In addition to dictating what dairy protein ingredient to Isolates and concentrates have their pros and cons. A
use, the pH of a beverage will also dictate the processing concentrate is going to cost less but it will also have more
conditions. For instance, low acid beverages that are shelf lactose and minerals, which will contribute to the overall Æ

6
sugar content. Concentrates will also have some fat, Hydration is Essential for Dry Dairy Proteins
which is going to produce a more cloudy, milky product. Some of the solubility and heat stability issues that are
In addition, the mineral content of concentrates can also seen with dairy protein beverages can be avoided by
create some instability depending on the pH. So, even properly hydrating the dairy proteins before they are
though isolates cost more, some manufacturers opt for added to the beverage formulation.
isolates because, among other factors, they can produce a
beverage with a lower sugar content and the best clarity, Milk proteins are especially important to hydrate
which is important for protein waters properly. Burrington says milk proteins need to be
hydrated for about an hour at 50°C (120°F minimum).
One of the newer milk protein ingredients is micellar “We always recommend warmer temperatures for milk
casein. This ingredient is different than an isolate or proteins because they are very slow to hydrate and
concentrate because it is processed by microfiltration warmer temperatures help optimize their hydration
(MF) while concentrates and isolates are most commonly conditions,” Burrington said.
made by ultrafiltration (UF). MF separates the casein
from the whey protein. So micellar casein will have the On whey protein side, it takes less time—about 20 to 30
same protein level as a concentrate or an isolate, but the minutes at no higher than 130°F. It is important not to
protein composition has changed to be predominantly exceed 130°F because you want to avoid denaturing the
casein. There are about four companies making micellar whey proteins.
casein in the U.S. and they will typically produce it in
the range of 90-95 percent casein (compared to MPC, Hydrating dairy proteins is important, especially as
which is about 80 percent casein). Micellar casein could drinks are being produced with higher levels of protein.
have a couple of advantages. It should be more heat stable Poorly hydrated MPC or MPI ingredients will lead to
because it has less whey proteins. Micellar caseins also defects like a grainy texture or protein settling in the
tend to develop less sulfur aroma during UHT or retort finished beverage. Properly hydrating the proteins will
processing, due to the lower whey protein content. help avoid these issues and improve the quality of the
beverage.
There is also a new whey ingredient called milk derived
whey. “This ingredient is different than cheese derived Processing Aids
whey because the milk derived whey has never gone There are a couple of special considerations when
through a cheesemaking process,” Burrington said. developing beverages, especially low acid beverages, in
“The flavor of milk derived whey is going to be very order to help the dairy proteins go through the heating
clean—it doesn’t have any of the flavors that the cultures process without getting damaged. For instance, often in
have created or from the extra heat processing that has low acid beverages, a stabilizer will need to be added (like
happened as the whey is further processed. It has a clean, carrageenan or gellan gum). These will help protect the
milky flavor that a lot of people like.” protein and also prevent it from interacting with itself.

In addition, milk derived whey contains no fat (in the The other consideration is that in a high heat process (like
MF process, the fat is separated from the whey protein UHT), the Maillard reaction occurs. This reaction will
stream). Since it has no fat, milk derived whey is very drop the pH of the beverage, which can create protein
clear like a WPI, which makes it a good option for clear instability. One way to help stabilize the pH is by adding
beverages like protein waters. buffer salts (usually mono-, di-, or polyphosphates).
These buffers help hold the pH up and some will also
chelate calcium (sometimes calcium will also cause
protein instability). The buffer salts are not perceived as
clean label by some consumers but they really help make
the beverage more stable.

Custom Dairy Ingredients

A couple of U.S. companies produce an MPC with a
reduced calcium content as a way to avoid the use of
buffers and to achieve a clean label. These special MPCs
with reduced calcium are more heat stable and are a nice
option for low acid dairy protein beverages. Æ
CDR's KJ Burrington, Hong Jiang & Ben Oldenburg, developing a new dairy
beverage in the CDR pilot plant.

7
One consideration when producing a beverage with whey Continued from page 5
proteins is to use a pre-acidified whey protein isolate. One Strategies to Influence Moisture Content
issue that manufacturers face when making beverages
Pasteurization: Influencing moisture content can start way
with whey protein isolates is that the pH of the beverage
back at pasteurization. For instance, pasteurization at <166°F will
formulation needs to be decreased sometimes as low not significantly denature whey proteins and will produce a lower
as pH 3.0 with the addition of an acid like phosphoric, moisture cheese. However, pasteurization at >166°F will begin
citric or malic acid. Depending on the level of protein to denature whey proteins, which will bind or retain water and
in the beverage, the amount of acid added could be very produce a higher moisture cheese.
high. Several companies in the U.S. have developed a Culture Selection: Different cultures will also influence the
pre-acidified whey protein isolate that makes it much final moisture of the cheese. Culture types and even strains within
easier for the processor and also makes a whey protein the same genus and species differ in their ability to retain or drive
ingredient that will be less astringent in the finished out moisture. For example, Sommer said when he worked in a
beverage. dairy plant, he knew that certain cultures would produce cheese
with a higher moisture content. So, he’d use cultures that retain
As mentioned at more water for higher moisture cheeses like Monterey Jack and
the beginning of cultures that drive out more moisture for lower moisture cheeses
this article, dairy like Cheddar.
protein beverages are Add Water: Another strategy to make a higher moisture cheese
a still emerging and is to add water to the milk in the vat. This will reduce whey
developing area of expulsion, resulting in a higher moisture cheese. This strategy is
more common in Europe, but if you’re a small artisan producer
the dairy industry.
who is not concerned about whey quality, this might be a good
Most dairy protein option.
beverages are focused
Add Calcium Chloride: The addition of calcium chloride to the
on muscle health,
milk in the vat will improve whey syneresis (moisture expulsion)
whether it be focused Hong Jiang, CDR, bottling a dairy beveage and result in a lower moisture cheese. However, this is not a good
on sports (muscle in the CDR Pilot Plant. option if making aged Cheddar or Parmesan because if you add
recovery), weight calcium chloride, you add less rennet and rennet is important in
management (lean muscle) or healthy aging (maintaining aged cheese because it contributes to the proteolytic activity that
muscle). Burrington said that there is room in the market is crucial to the cheese aging process and flavor development.
for more products, “The one area that I think we’re really Adding calcium chloride is a better option for higher moisture
short on is the healthy aging category. There are very few cheeses like Colby and Monterey Jack because then less rennet is
products in the market. That’s one area that in which I’ve needed and you don’t want excessive amounts of proteolysis in
been really encouraging companies to develop products.” thoes varieties.

CDR is also working to increase its ability to support Cutting the Vat
companies and entrepreneurs develop new beverages. The firmness of the curd when the vat is cut influences
Babcock Hall, which houses CDR, is undergoing moisture content as well as fat loss. “Not all cheese
a building project. As part of that project and with varieties should be cut at the same curd coagulant
support from the Wisconsin Economic Development firmness,” Sommer says. “This is part of the art and skill of
Corporation, CDR will be able to offer small-scale aseptic cheesemaking.”
processing equipment. More information will be made
available when the equipment is ready for use. Soft Set

For more information or for technical support regarding Cutting Healing

dairy protein beverages, contact CDR’s Beverage
Applications Program Coordinator KJ Burrington at
608-265-9297 or burrington@cdr.wisc.edu.
Smaller curd,
thicker skin,
Additional Resources: Thin casein strands with Greater moisture loss lower moisture
small openings
Dairy Protein Beverage Applications Short Course –
September 15-16, 2020 www.cdr.wisc.edu/shortcourses The firmer the coagulated milk is at cut, the higher
moisture of the final cheese. Conversely, the softer it is
U.S. Dairy Ingredients in Ready-to-Drink Beverages at cut, the lower moisture content. For example, when
(U.S. Dairy Export Council) – www.thinkusadairy.org making a high moisture cheese, like Feta, the curd is cut Æ
Search for "Ready-to-Drink Beverages." R

8
when it is very firm. “The curd is so hard you can walk the casein is thinner and less rigid, and therefore takes
across the vat,” Sommer said. “It is like concrete. Why? less time to heal so it traps the fat in the cheese.
Because they want to retain that moisture in the curd.”
Low moisture cheeses, like Parmesan or aged Cheddar, A couple notes about coagulation. The rate of
are cut when the coagulant is very soft because the gel firming is:
cheesemaker wants to lose moisture but retain more „ Increased by increasing concentration of casein,
milkfat in the curd. „ Increased by increasing amount of rennet used,
„ Increased by adding CaCl2 (maximum level 0.02%),
Firm Set „ Increased by increasing the temperature, and
„ Increased by decreasing the pH at rennet addition.

Cutting Healing The other important factor to keep in mind when cutting
is determining the size of the cubes. This is pretty straight
forward—cutting into larger cubes will retain more
Larger curd, moisture in cheese and smaller cubes will lose more
Thick casein strands with thinner skin,
higher moisture
moisture. So, if making aged Cheddar, you would cut
large openings Greater fat loss
smaller cubes and if making Feta or fresh Mozzarella, you
will cut larger cubes.
Why is this? When coagulated milk is soft, the opening
or pores in the curd are very small. Since, the pores in Measuring Moisture
the curd are small, they don’t hold much moisture. And, Typically, when measuring moisture content, you want
when the curd is harder, the pores are much larger and to have a consistent time point—1-2 weeks if possible,
hold more moisture. (depending on the style) and longer for brined cheeses
because you want to have the cheese reach equilibrium
In addition to impacting moisture, the firmness at cut before you sample it. To get accurate, consistent results,
also impacts fat loss. Cutting the curd when it is firmer, you need to take a representative sample and it’s best to
results in more fat loss. This occurs because the structure sample the cheese when cooled. Also, if possible, it’s best
of the casein is more rigid when the curd is firm so it takes to send a representative cut portion to the lab compared
longer for the curd to “heal” after being cut. It can’t close to a plug.
the gap and trap the remaining fat, so some of the fat will
leak out into the whey, as compared to softer curd, where There are a couple different ways you can measure
moisture. An inexpensive and easy option is to
Other Tips to Influence Moisture Content measure moisture using a forced draft oven (see
Cooking: Cooking the curd at a lower temperature will retain "Standard Methods for the Examination of Dairy
more moisture and higher temperatures will help expel more Products,"procedure 15.114). In this procedure, the
moisture. first step is weighing the sample then placing it in an
Water: Cooling the curd with cool water will help retain more oven for several hours or overnight, and then weighing
moisture and warming it with warm water will lose more moisture it again when it comes out of the oven to determine the
(this is often used with Muenster cheese when it is in the hoops). moisture content. The loss of weight after heating is used
Reducing make time after cook: This is another strategy to to calculate moisture content of the sample.
retain more moisture in the cheese. Once all the whey is drained
after cooking, the longer the curd stirs, the more moisture will be In Summary
lost. So, if you are making a higher moisture cheese, you might „ Keeping the moisture content in the proper range is
want to reduce the make time after cooking the curd by shortening critical to achieve the correct cheese flavor and texture.
up the time that the cheese is placed in the hoop after cooking. „ Rate (speed) and extent (range) of acid development
Salt: Salt sucks water out of the curd, so the more salt you add, determines calcium retention and cheese body, texture
(i.e. Cheddar, Colby) the more water that is going to be removed, and performance.
resulting in a cheese with a lower, final moisture content. „ Everything is connected—especially acidity and
Reduce curd temperature at pressing: This will reduce moisture. If you make an adjustment in one step, it will
whey expulsion, and, therefore, increase the cheese’s moisture impact other areas and/or characteristics of the cheese.
content. The cooler the curd is at pressing, the less whey expulsion.
However, if the curd gets too cold, the curd won’t get a nice tight “Cheesemaking is a holistic process—you change one
knit. parameter like moisture and you’re going to change
another like acidity, which will result in changing the
body,” says Sommer. “That’s where the artisanship of
cheesemaking comes into play.” Continued on page 12 Æ

9
CDR ARTICLE ON LACTOSE “In general, this
STANDARDIZATION RECEIVES SPECIAL type of product
RECOGNITION develops excessive
acidity due to
The Journal of Dairy Science, published by the American a change in the
Dairy Science Association, recognized CDR’s work on balance of cheese
lactose standardization of cheesemilk. Paul Kononoff, components,
editor-in-chief of the Journal of Dairy Science, selected such as a reduced
CDR’s paper, “Low- and reduced-fat milled curd, fat content,
direct-salted Gouda cheese: Comparison of lactose but increased Rodrigo Ibanez, CDR, working in the lab.
standardization of cheesemilk and whey dilution moisture content.
techniques” as an editor’s choice article for the February We wanted to evaluate how lactose standardization
issue. The article is also being featured on the Journal of controlled acid development in Gouda style cheeses
Dairy Science website (www.journalofdairyscience.org). with reduced fat levels, but we also wanted to contrast
with traditional methods to control acidity, such as whey
The paper’s authors are: Rodrigo Ibanez, CDR Associate dilution.”
Scientist; Rani Govindasamy-Lucey, CDR Senior
Scientist; John Jaeggi, CDR Cheese Industry and The paper also drew upon the earlier work of Mark
Applications Coordinator; Mark E. Johnson, CDR Johnson, CDR Assistant Director. Mark developed the
Associate Director and Distinguished Scientist; Paul idea of lactose standardization in the 1990s. It is part
McSweeney, Professor, School of Food and Nutritional of an overall process of standardizing milk to the same
Sciences, University College Cork, Ireland; and John composition to produce cheese with little variation in
Lucey, CDR director. composition and pH. The functionality of the cheese can
be more tightly controlled.
The findings in the article are from Rodrigo Ibanez’s
Ph.D. research work. This exciting research investigated CDR is very proud to have talented scientists like Mark,
an alternative method to control cheese acidity by Rodrigo and others working on innovative solutions
altering the initial lactose content of the cheesemilk. that directly benefit the dairy industry. Rodrigo joined
Traditionally, in cheeses like Gouda, acidity is controlled the CDR staff in the summer of 2019. As an associate
by whey dilution, which involves partial removal of whey scientist at CDR, Rodrigo is focusing on microbiological
and its replacement with water. By standardizing lactose topics related to cheese and dairy products, along with
in the cheesemilk, cheesemakers may be able to produce writing research proposals and supporting research and
a quality cheese while also reducing water usage. outreach activities at CDR.

“My Ph.D. thesis was focused on studying the factors To view the paper, visit www.journalofdairyscience.org. R
that affected the quality of low fat cheeses,” Ibanez said.

2020 DAIRY SHORT COURSES Continuing Education Opportunities for the Dairy Industry

Ice Cream Makers Workshop Æ February 12-14 Milk Pasteurization Æ August 4-5
Wisconsin Process Cheese Seminar Æ February 18-20 Certificate in Dairy Processing Æ September 3
Cheese Technology Short Course Æ March 9-13 Dairy Protein Beverage Applications Æ September 15-16
World of Cheese Æ April 27 – May 1 Master Artisian Course Æ September 22-24
CIP Æ May 5 Cheese Tech Short Course Æ October 5-9
Food Safety (HACCP) Æ May 6 Dairy Ingredient Manufacturing Æ October 20-21
Certificate in Dairy Processing Æ May 7 Cheese Grading Short Course Æ November 4-6
Applied Dairy Chemistry Æ May 12-13 Ice Cream Æ December 1-3
Cheese Grading Æ June 2-4 For the most current short course schedule see our website.
Buttermakers Short Course Æ June 16-17 www.cdr.wisc.edu/shortcourses
Buttermaker Apprenticeship Workshop Æ June 22-26

10
 Thursday, April 16 | Where Efficiency Meets
Excellence: Maintaining Quality in Modern
Manufacture
Part I: Cheesemaking Efficiency: Mark Johnson
and John Jaeggi will be sharing ideas for calculating
April 14 Special Events | April 15-16 Exhibits and Seminars
Milwaukee, Wisconsin | www.cheeseexpo.org
and optimizing cheese yield, including how to reduce
cheese fines, optimize yield and fat retention, and other
Join CDR staff at the Cheese Expo 2020. Nowhere else important factors.
will you find the opportunity to network with 4000 of Part II: Ask the Experts Panel: Here’s your chance to
your colleagues and industry experts while accessing stump the CDR experts. We’ll be discussing the Top
relevant educational sessions and the latest technology 5 defects we’ve seen over the past five years related
and services to support your business success at the trade to cheese and whey, but also open the floor for your
show. questions.

CDR is excited to again partner with the Wisconsin Artisan Track: Affinage -Creating the Ideal Aging Space
Cheese Makers Association in co-hosting the Expo. From surface flora to air handling, this session will
Staff have put together three technical sessions that will address all of the important conditions needed to
address topics you told us were important to you. Be sure create that perfect artisan cheers. We’ll discuss different
to register today for Cheese Expo 2020 so you can learn conditions for different rinds, and you’ll also hear from
and network with CDR staff and your colleagues. an Affineur on best practices. This session will conclude
Wednesday, April 15 | After the Make: Role of Brines with Andy Johnson sharing CDR’s plans for the various
and Curing in Quality Cheesemaking affinage caves we’ll offer in the new CDR building.
Part I: Brines: Quality of brines, salt update in cheese
varieties, brine cleaning technologies, and brine best Join us on April 14-16, 2020 in Milwaukee for Cheese
practices and disposal. You’ll also hear an update on the Expo 2020. Register now at www.cheeseexpo.org R
hydrogen peroxide study.
Part II: Mold Control during Aging: Practical approach
to mold control, including a panel of experts addressing
the challenges and solutions related to 640 production.

EXPERIENCED CHEESEMAKERS JOIN CDR

Gary Grossen, Research Cheesemaker
Gary is a Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker® (certified in
Brick, Cheddar, Gouda, Havarti, Muenster) with more
than 60 years of experience in the dairy industry. He
worked in his family’s cheese
plant in Monroe, Wisconsin
for more than 50 years, making
Brick, Muenster, Colby, and Ben Oldenburg, Research Cheesemaker
200-pound wheels of Swiss Ben has worked for more than 25 years in dairy plants
in traditional copper kettles. as a cheesemaker, supervisor and safety and loss
In 2005, Grossen came to the control manager. Before CDR, Ben was a lead worker
University of Wisconsin and in the Babcock Hall Dairy
worked in the Babcock Dairy Plant. Ben’s many years
Plant where he made award- of experience in the dairy
winning cheeses. At CDR, industry give him valuable
Grossen helps with all aspects of cheesemaking from milk knowledge and perspective.
pasteurization to assisting with research and industry At CDR, Ben helps pasteurize
trials. His cheeses have won many awards at national and milk, assists with industry
international competitions. Most recently, his Gouda was trials and helps ensure that
named Cheese and Butter Grand Champion at the 2019 CDR’s research cheesemaking
World Dairy Expo. runs smoothly. R

11
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Madison, Wisconsin 53706-1565 PAID
Madison, WI
ADDRESS SERVICE REQUESTED Permit No. 658

DAIRY PIPELINE
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CENTER F

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Center for Dairy Research Technical reviewers: Andy Johnson and Dean Sommer, CDR
1605 Linden Drive
CDR
Madison, WI 53706-1565 Resources
www.cdr.wisc.edu œ Johnson, M. 2015. pH Control in Cheese. Dairy Pipeline: Volume 27,
Number 1.
608-262-5970 fax: 608-262-1578
œ Johnson, M., D. Sommer. 2013. Basic Techniques to Gain More Moisture
in Cheese. Dairy Pipeline: Volume 25, Number 3.
Editor: Shelby Anderson œ Johnson, M., D. Sommer. 2013. Importance of Acid Development on
We welcome your questions and comments. Cheese Milk Prior to Renneting. Dairy Pipeline: Volume 25, Number 3.
sanderson@cdr.wisc.edu 608-262-8015 œ Wehr, M., J. Frank. Standard Methods for the Examination of Dairy
Products. American Public Health Association: 17th edition (June 1,
Technical Reviewers: KJ Burrington, Deb Wendorf 2004). R
Boyke, Andy Johnson, Mark Johnson, Dean Sommer,
& Tom Szalkucki
Events
Newsletter Design: Tim Hogensen

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Dairy Pipeline at communications@cdr.wisc.edu April 14 Special Events | April 15-16 Exhibits and Seminars
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