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Lecture_5

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16 views

Lecture_5

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taraartig
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Standing waves

𝐻𝑔 cosh 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧) Consider another standing wave:


𝜙= cos 𝑘𝑥 sin 𝜔𝑡
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
𝐻𝑔 cosh 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧)
𝜙= sin 𝑘𝑥 cos 𝜔𝑡
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ

This is one of the solutions we discarded earlier. The free


surface elevation:
1 𝜕𝜙 𝐻
𝜂 𝑥, 𝑡 = ቤ = − sin 𝑘𝑥 sin 𝜔𝑡
𝑔 𝜕𝑡 𝑧=0 2
(linearized DFSBC)

Subtract this from the other solution, we have a new solution:


𝐻𝑔 cosh 𝑘 ℎ + 𝑧
𝜙= cos 𝑘𝑥 sin 𝜔𝑡 − sin 𝑘𝑥 cos 𝜔𝑡
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
𝐻𝑔 cosh 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧)
=− sin(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
Standing waves
𝐻𝑔 cosh 𝑘 ℎ + 𝑧
𝜙= cos 𝑘𝑥 sin 𝜔𝑡 − sin 𝑘𝑥 cos 𝜔𝑡
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
𝐻𝑔 cosh 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧)
=− sin(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
The surface elevation

1 𝜕𝜙 𝐻 Propagates from left to right


𝜂 𝑥, 𝑡 = ቤ = cos(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝑔 𝜕𝑡 𝑧=0 2

This is the superposition of two wave elevations.

Linear problem!
Shallow and deep water
𝐻𝑔 cosh 𝑘 ℎ + 𝑧
𝜙= cos 𝑘𝑥 sin 𝜔𝑡 − sin 𝑘𝑥 cos 𝜔𝑡 Also
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
𝐻𝑔 cosh 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧)
=− sin(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
Here,

Thus, for small kh


Taylor expansion, for small

or
For large kh
Shallow and deep water
𝐻𝑔 cosh 𝑘 ℎ + 𝑧
𝜙= cos 𝑘𝑥 sin 𝜔𝑡 − sin 𝑘𝑥 cos 𝜔𝑡
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
𝐻𝑔 cosh 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧)
=− sin(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
Shallow and deep water

Dispersion relationship for shallow water reduces in


the following manner:
𝜔2 = 𝑔𝑘 tanh 𝑘ℎ = 𝑔𝑘 2ℎ

𝜔2
2 = 𝐶 2 = 𝑔ℎ
𝑘
Relative
𝐶= 𝑔ℎ

The wave speed in shallow water is determined


solely by the water depth.
Shallow and deep water

Dispersion relationship for deep water reduces in the


following manner:

𝜔2 = 𝑔𝑘 tanh 𝑘ℎ ≈ 𝑔𝑘

In general, for the same depth, longer waves have


faster speeds.
Summary of shallow and deep-water waves
Gravity-Capillary waves
Two-dimensional periodic linear water wave problem
Consider surface tension
Governing equation:
𝜕𝜙 𝜎 𝜕 2𝜂
− + 𝑔𝜂 − = 0, 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = 0
∇2 𝜙 =0 𝜕𝑡 𝜌 𝜕𝑥 2

Boundary conditions:

𝜕𝜙
− =0 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = −ℎ
𝜕𝑧

𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜂
− = , 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = 0
𝜕𝑧 𝜕𝑡

𝜕𝜙
− + 𝑔𝜂 = 0 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = 0
𝜕𝑡
Gravity-Capillary waves
0.5

Consider surface tension 0.45

0.4

𝜕𝜙 𝜎 𝜕 2𝜂
− + 𝑔𝜂 − = 0, 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = 0 0.35

𝜕𝑡 𝜌 𝜕𝑥 2

C (m/s)
0.3 f 6 f 104
C 0.274917 C 0.274729

f 40.5
0.25 C 0.274651

0.2
clean water T=0.07N/m
surfactant T=0.03N/m
0.15

0.1
50 100 150 200 250
f (Hz)
Fish line problem (moving pressure)

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