INDUSTRIAL VISIT

REPORT

AMBADI ENTERPRISES, MYSORE

CENTRAL SILK BOARD,
BANGALORE

ALSHA MURALI (BD/21/5877)

TEXTILE DESIGN
 INDUSTRIAL VISIT REPORT TO
AMBADI ENTERPRISES, MYSORE
Introduction:
Ambadi Enterprises is a well-known manufacturer specializing in high-quality textile products. Our industrial visit offered
valuable insights into advanced weaving technologies, focusing on the use of electronic jacquards, shuttle looms, and rapier
looms. This report highlights the key technological findings from the visit, emphasizing the processes involved in producing
intricate woven fabrics and the role of electronic jacquard systems in modern textile manufacturing.

Electronic Jacquard Technology:

At Ambadi Enterprises, both single and double-lift electronic jacquard systems are utilized, with the number of hooks
determining the repeat pattern size. These patterns range from single-repeat to 2-repeat and 4-repeat designs. Each yarn is
controlled by a hook, which is a crucial element in jacquard weaving.
In electronic jacquard systems, every set of 8 yarns is connected to 8 hooks, with each hook controlling two yarn ends. While the
basic concept remains similar between electronic and mechanical jacquard systems, the electronic variant offers a significant
advantage: the ability to produce larger, more intricate designs due to its higher hook capacity, which starts at 2640 hooks.
Additionally, it eliminates the need for manual card punching, enabling faster and more convenient design modifications and
corrections.
These systems operate using a binary system, digitally transferring the design to the machine, which displays it as a single repeat
on the control screen. This advanced technology boosts productivity and design flexibility by allowing for quicker and more
precise inputs compared to traditional mechanical methods.
Rapier and Shuttle Looms:

Both shuttle and rapier looms are employed at Ambadi Enterprises. Shuttle looms continuously feed the weft through the warp threads,
while rapier looms cut the weft at the end of each pass. The rapier system uses a receiver to transport the weft across the warp threads,
resulting in faster weaving speeds and greater versatility in patterns and materials.

Cramping Method and Color Limitations:

In warp-based designs, there is no limit to the number of colors that can be used. However, weft-based designs are restricted to a maximum
of 12 colors. The cramping method is a motion technique crucial to maintaining fabric quality, ensuring synchronization between the take-up
and let-off motions. If the take-up mechanism fails to move while the beating is done and the let-off continues, cramping occurs, which can
affect fabric quality.

Process Flow:
The process flow from customer order to the final product at Ambadi Enterprises is a comprehensive journey that involves several detailed
steps, each contributing to the production of high-quality textile fabrics.
1. Customer: The process begins with the customer, who places an order based on specific fabric requirements. This may include design
preferences, material specifications, and desired delivery timelines.
2. Sample/Order: Once the order is received, the design team develops a sample or prototype based on the customer’s specifications. This
sample serves as a model for approval before proceeding to bulk production.
3. Design Team: The design team refines the fabric design according to the customer’s vision, ensuring all aspects of the pattern, texture,
and color are aligned with their expectations.
4. Technical Specification Confirmation: After the design is finalized, technical specifications such as dimensions, yarn types, and weaving
techniques are confirmed to ensure the manufacturing process runs smoothly.
5. Own Design Development: In some cases, Ambadi Enterprises may create and propose its own design innovations, offering customers
unique and exclusive fabric designs.
6. Marketing/Merchandiser: The marketing team collaborates with the merchandising department to coordinate production planning and
manage customer relations throughout the process.
7. Dyed Yarn Stores: Pre-dyed yarns are retrieved from the storage, ensuring they meet the color and quality standards required for
production.
8. Hank Winding: Yarn in its raw hank form is wound into cones, preparing it for smooth feeding into the weaving machines.
9. Cone Winding: This step further processes the yarn, ensuring it is wound uniformly to avoid breaks or tension inconsistencies during
weaving.
10. Warping: Yarn is warped onto beams either through sectional warping, used for complex designs, or direct warping for simpler patterns.
11. Weaving: The yarn undergoes weaving using shuttle looms or electronic jacquards, transforming it into intricate fabrics based on the
design specifications.
12. 1 Meter Quality Approval: A sample of one meter is produced and inspected for defects. Upon approval, bulk production can begin.
13. Bulk Production: The bulk fabric is woven, adhering to the specifications agreed upon.
14. Inspection, Cleaning, and Rolling: After production, the fabric undergoes thorough inspection, cleaning, and rolling to ensure quality
control.
15. Quality Inspection: A final inspection ensures no defects in the fabric's weaving, color, or texture before it is sent to storage.
16. Finished Fabric Stores: Once approved, the fabric is stored securely in the finished goods area, awaiting dispatch.
17. Packing: The fabric is packed according to customer requirements, ensuring safe transport.
18. Customer Delivery: Finally, the packed fabric is dispatched to the customer, completing the production process.

Hank Winding:
During hank winding, raw yarn in its hank form is wound into cones. This step is essential for ensuring smooth feeding of yarn
into the weaving machines.
Warping of Yarns:
Ambadi Enterprises employs two warping techniques: sectional warping and direct warping to the beam. Sectional warping is used for more
complex, multi-colored patterns, while direct warping is a simpler and faster method.

Weaving:
The company utilizes shuttle looms and electronic jacquards for weaving. The shuttle loom is ideal for continuous weft insertion, while the
rapier loom, which cuts the weft after each pass, allows for faster and more efficient weaving.
Inspection: Fabric inspection is carried out manually. Skilled inspectors check for defects such as broken threads, misalignments, and color
inconsistencies before the fabric is rolled for further processing.
 CENTRAL SILK BOARD

The Central Silk Board (CSB), headquartered in Bangalore, is a premier organization under the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, dedicated to
the development, promotion, and regulation of the Indian silk industry. Established in 1948, the CSB plays a crucial role in maintaining India's position
as one of the leading silk producers in the world, especially known for its high-quality mulberry silk.
The primary mandate of the Central Silk Board is to promote the growth and sustainability of sericulture (the cultivation of silkworms for silk
production) across the country. It undertakes extensive research and development, providing technical and financial support to farmers and silk
producers. The organization also collaborates with state sericulture departments, agricultural institutes, and other stakeholders to improve
sericulture practices and enhance the production of silk cocoons.
One of the key responsibilities of the CSB is the promotion of various types of silk, including mulberry, tasar, eri, and muga. The organization focuses
on improving the quality and yield of these silks through advanced techniques in breeding, disease control, and silk reeling technologies. The CSB
operates several research centers and institutes across India, focusing on the scientific and technological advancement of sericulture.
In addition to its research and developmental activities, the Central Silk Board is actively involved in marketing and export promotion. It helps silk
producers and artisans access domestic and international markets by organizing exhibitions, fairs, and awareness campaigns. The board also ensures
the quality of Indian silk products through its Silk Mark certification, which authenticates the purity and quality of silk.
Through its multifaceted efforts, the Central Silk Board significantly contributes to employment generation, particularly in rural areas, where
sericulture is a vital source of livelihood. By integrating modern technology with traditional practices, the CSB fosters sustainable growth in India’s
silk sector.

Different Types of Silk

India is home to four primary types of silk, each with its distinct characteristics:
1. Mulberry Silk: The most common and high-quality silk, produced from the Bombyx mori silkworm that feeds on mulberry leaves. This silk is
smooth, fine, and lustrous, accounting for about 90% of India's total silk production.
2. Tasar Silk: A wild silk produced by the Antheraea mylitta silkworm, mainly in Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, and Odisha. It has a coppery tone and
is more textured than mulberry silk.
3. Eri Silk: Known as “Ahimsa silk” due to the non-violent process of its production, Eri silk comes from the Philosamia ricini silkworm. It has a
soft, matte finish and is mainly produced in Assam and Meghalaya.
4. Muga Silk: Another wild silk, Muga is exclusive to Assam and is known for its natural golden-yellow hue. Muga silk is durable and becomes
more lustrous with every wash.
Silk Production Process
The silk production process, or sericulture, involves several stages from the boiling of cocoons to the final making of silk threads and fabric.
At CSB, the process was systematically demonstrated, beginning with the rearing of silkworms.
1. Boiling Cocoons: After the silkworms spin their cocoons, they are harvested and boiled in hot water to loosen the sericin, a gummy
substance that holds the silk fibers together. This step helps to separate the continuous silk filament from the cocoon without breaking
it. The boiling process is delicate as it determines the quality of the silk thread.
2. Reeling Silk Threads: Once the cocoon is softened, it is reeled—an intricate process where the continuous silk filament (approximately
300 to 900 meters long) is carefully unwound from the cocoon. The reeling process must be done with precision to ensure the filament
remains unbroken, as the quality of silk largely depends on the uniformity of the thread.
3. Twisting and Making Silk Yarn: The reeled silk threads are twisted together to form silk yarn. This twisting increases the strength and
elasticity of the yarn, making it ready for weaving.

Weaving and Looms

At CSB, the weaving process was demonstrated using different types of looms. The primary loom showcased was the pit loom, a traditional
handloom used for centuries in India.
1. Pit Loom: In a pit loom, the weaver sits at ground level with pedals below to control the movement of the loom’s shafts. It allows the creation
of intricate patterns and is commonly used for weaving silk sarees and other delicate fabrics. The pit loom is favored for its versatility and
ability to produce complex designs.
2. Weaving Process: The silk yarns are arranged on the loom and interwoven using the warp and weft technique. The warp threads are stretched
across the loom while the weft threads are inserted over and under the warp to create fabric. Weaving silk is an intricate process requiring skill
and patience, and each fabric woven is a work of art.

Exhibition and Market of Silk

The visit concluded with a walk through the silk exhibition at CSB, which showcased a variety of silk products ranging from raw silk yarn to
finished garments like sarees, scarves, and stoles. The exhibition highlighted the importance of silk in Indian culture and its evolution as a
fabric of choice for traditional as well as modern garments. The diversity of silk products from various regions was impressive, emphasizing
India's rich textile heritage.

Conclusion
The visit to the Central Silk Board offered an in-depth understanding of the sericulture industry and the painstaking efforts involved in
producing silk, from the rearing of silkworms to the weaving of luxurious fabrics. The experience was educational, shedding light on the
importance of silk in the textile industry, the role of traditional weaving techniques, and the significance of preserving this age-old craft.