GE2404

TEXTILE ART
Textile art is an art form that utilizes various materials and fibers to create decorative, artistic objects. It
is a significant part of many cultures around the world, often reflecting the beliefs, traditions, and stories
of the individuals who created them. This module focuses on the rich heritage of textile art in the
Philippines.

T’nalak
The creation of textiles is considered a spiritual process where weavers connect with the natural and
spiritual worlds. They utilize materials such as grass, pineapple fiber, and abaca, believed to contain
spirits. Weaving is not just a craft but a way to communicate with spirits and draw inspiration from nature
and the past. This belief is reflected in rituals and practices of respect and reverence.

T'nalak weaving is a sacred art of the T'boli tribe in South Cotabato. The T'boli women, known as
"dreamweavers," create intricate designs inspired by dreams. These dream-given patterns represent
nature, myths, and ancestral wisdom and emerge in the cloth without being drawn as a form of spiritual
narrative.

The designs typically feature bold geometric patterns and natural motifs in black, red, and white, each
with its meaning. Black often symbolizes the Earth, red represents blood and life, and the undyed
portions reflect the purity of the natural abaca fiber.

Lang Dulay, a T'boli Dreamweaver from the Lake Sebu region in South Cotabato, was honored with the
National Living Treasures Award (GAMABA) in 1998 for preserving T'nalak weaving. Her dedication helped
keep this tradition alive, sharing its deep cultural and spiritual significance with future generations.

T’nalak Process
T'nalak symbolizes the spirit and identity of the T'boli tribe, making it a crucial element of their cultural
heritage. Below are the steps in the T’nalak process:

1. Harvesting and Preparing Abaca Fibers – The T'boli weavers use abaca (Manila hemp) fibers known
for their strength and durability. The fibers must be stripped, dried, and manually separated, as this
plant-based material is the primary textile for T'nalak weaving.

2. Splicing and Knotting – Since abaca fibers are relatively short, they must be spliced and knotted to
form continuous threads suitable for weaving.

3. Dyeing Using Ikat Technique – The T'boli use the ikat technique, which involves resist-dyeing. Specific
areas of the abaca threads are tied tightly to resist dye, creating intricate patterns. Natural dyes,
primarily black and red, are traditionally used, although other colors have sometimes been
introduced.

4. Weaving the T’nalak – The backstrap loom is an essential tool in this process.

5. Finishing – The cloth is softened by hand and inspected, and any loose ends are cleaned up to
complete the weaving. Each piece is unique due to its handmade nature and the variations in dream-

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inspired designs.

T’boli art
Besides T'nalak, T'boli art includes a variety of crafts and cultural expressions that reflect the community's
connection to nature and reverence for ancestral spirits. Key elements of T'boli art are as follows:

• Brasswork – T'boli artisans create intricate brass accessories, figurines, and ceremonial items. This
allows them to create detailed designs that include animals, mythological figures, and symbols of
protection.

• Beadwork – Colorful beads are used to adorn clothing, headdresses, and jewelry, creating patterns
inspired by nature and traditions. Beaded pieces play an essential role in T'boli rituals and
celebrations.

• Woodcarving and Décor – Carvings of animals, ritual objects, and other symbolic figures are often
used in homes or ceremonies. Each carving is decorative and a reminder of T'boli mythology and
ancestral stories.

• Music and Dance – Music and dance are essential to T'boli celebrations, using instruments like the
kudlong (two-stringed lute) and sludoy (bamboo zither). Madal tahaw (kadal tahaw), or bird dance,
is performed during community gatherings and reflects their close relationship with nature.

In conclusion, T'boli art reflects the T'boli people's connection to their ancestors and environment,
preserving their history, identity, and beliefs. The art serves as a way to tell stories, express spirituality,
and maintain cultural traditions for future generations.

Other Textile Traditions

In addition to T’nalak, there are other notable textile traditions in the Philippines, each with unique
techniques and cultural significance.

Dagmay
Dagmay is a traditional handwoven textile made from abaca fibers by the Mandaya tribe in Davao
Oriental and Davao del Norte. It features simple geometric patterns, often in earth tones like brown and
red. The designs represent nature and daily life. While Dagmay is used for practical items like clothing
and blankets, it also holds cultural meaning, preserving Mandaya heritage and craftsmanship.

Samporonia Madanlo is a prominent Dagmay artist from the Mandaya tribe. She received the Gawad sa
Manlilikha ng Bayan (GAMABA) Award in 2023. Her contributions to the preservation and promotion of
Mandaya weaving traditions have made her a respected figure in the cultural community.

Pis Syabit
Pis refers to the geometric pattern, and siyabit stands for the hook and technique. Pis Syabit is a
traditional handwoven textile from the Tausug tribe in Sulu. It is a colorful fabric, often made from silk or
cotton, known for its geometric shapes, floral motifs, and symbols. Pis Syabit is used as a decorative
piece or worn as a headscarf or shawl (shoulder covering), especially in ceremonies or special occasions.

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Darhata Sawabi is a prominent Pis Syabit artist. She received the Gawad sa Manlilikha ng Bayan
(GAMABA) Award in 2004. Her commitment to the quality of her products is unwavering. She is celebrated
for teaching younger generations the art of Pis Syabit weaving.

Seputangan
The Seputangan is a traditional handwoven textile by the Yakan tribe in Zamboanga. It is made from
cotton or silk and features vibrant colors and geometric patterns such as diamonds, squares, and zigzags.
It is used in ceremonies and daily life, reflecting their rich weaving traditions. The fabric is commonly used
as a headscarf, belt, or decorative garment. Yakan textile reflects the “pure beauty of nature.” Each
design and shape woven through the cloth reflects nature.

Ambalang Ausalin, or Apuh Ambalang, is a renowned Yakan Master Weaver. She received the Gawad sa
Manlilikha ng Bayan (GAMABA) Award 2016. This artistry passed down to her daughters, nieces, and other
weavers strengthens Yakan's identity and preserves their heritage in a globalized world.

Inaul
Inaul literally means “weave” in Maguindanao. Inaul is a traditional handwoven textile from the
Maguindanao tribe. The patterns feature bold geometric shapes like diamonds, zigzags, and triangles.
Inaul is woven on a backstrap loom with designs inspired by nature, cultural symbols, and royal motifs.
It is commonly used for making malongs (tubular skirts) and is worn in cultural celebrations and
ceremonies. Inaul symbolizes the strength of the culture and history of a great civilization; despite cultural
imperialism, it stands firm with pride, dignity, and identity. The popularity of Inaul makes it possible for
other women to be inspired to learn it as they observe the opportunity it poses.
References:
BARMM Official Website. (2022, November 24). Darhata Sawabi. https://bcpch.bangsamoro.gov.ph/darhata-
sawabi/.
BARMM Official Website. (2024, March 31). Threads of resilience: Darhata Sawabi—Sulu’s Pis Syabit weaving
maestro, a national treasure. https://bangsamoro.gov.ph/news/feature-story/threads-of-resilience-darhata-
sawabi-sulus-pis-syabit-weaving-maestro-a-national-treasure/
Belgera, A. (2023, July 21). T’nalak Festival: Weaving traditions, bridging history and cultural resilience. PIA.
https://mirror.pia.gov.ph/features/2023/07/21/tnalak-festival-weaving-traditions-bridging-history-and-cultural-
resilience.
Berto. (2022, November 22). Dagmay. The Philippines Today. https://thephilippinestoday.com/dagmay/.
“Cloth (Dagmay),” Mapping Philippine Material Culture, accessed November 13, 2024,
https://philippinestudies.uk/mapping/items/show/5715.
Garcia, I. R. (2019, May 31). Reviving the Mandaya’s ‘dagmay’ Mindanao Times.
https://mindanaotimes.com.ph/reviving-the-mandayas-dagmay/.
Living Asia Channel. (2014, May 16). WINDOW Lang Dulay [Video]. YouTube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EvNFvTHFHAs.
Manipon, R. H. (2024, January 1). Hail the newly declared National Living Treasures. Daily Tribune Lifestyle.
https://lifestyle.tribune.net.ph/hail-the-newly-declared-national-living-treasures/.
National Commission for Culture and the Arts. (n.d.). National Living Treasures: Lang Dulay.
https://ncca.gov.ph/about-culture-and-arts/culture-profile/gamaba/national-living-treasures-lang-dulay/.
National Museum. (2022, April 1). Apuh Ambalang and the Yakan Weaving Tradition.
https://www.nationalmuseum.gov.ph/2022/04/01/apuh-ambalang-and-the-yakan-weaving-tradition/.
“Pis Syabit (Silk Headscarf),” Mapping Philippine Material Culture, accessed November 13,
2024, https://philippinestudies.uk/mapping/items/show/29324.

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T’boili Global Matters. (n.d.). T’nalak Weaving. http://www.tboli.globalmatters.com/prod01.htm.

7641 Islands. PH. (2022, March 28). Immerse yourself in culture through Yakan Master Weaver Ambalang Ausalin.
https://7641islands.ph/explore/immerse-yourself-in-culture-through-yakan-master-weaver-ambalang-ausalin/.

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