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Santa Fe, Taos
& Albuquerque
11th Edition
by Lesley S. King
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
Santa Fe, Taos
& Albuquerque
11th Edition
by Lesley S. King
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
About the Author
Lesley S. King grew up on a ranch in northern New Mexico. She’s a freelance writer and
photographer, and a columnist for New Mexico magazine. Formerly managing editor for
The Santa Fean, she has written for The New York Times, United Airline’s Hemispheres
magazine, and Audubon, among other publications. She is the author of Frommer’s New
Mexico, Frommer’s Great Outdoor Guide to Arizona & New Mexico, and New Mexico For
Dummies. She’s also the coauthor of Frommer’s American Southwest. Due for release in
2007 are two new books, King of the Road and The Santa Fe Farmers Market Cookbook.
Kathleen Raphael helped research this book.
Published by:
15 Albuquerque 231
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .231 Family-Friendly Restaurants . . . . . .249
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .233 Route 66 Revisited: Rediscovering
Fast Facts: Albuquerque . . . . . . . . .234 New Mexico’s Stretch
of the Mother Road . . . . . . . . . . . .251
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .236
5 What to See & Do . . . . . . . . . . . . .253
Cruising Corrales . . . . . . . . . . . . . .242
Taking Home a Southwest
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .243
Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .259
vi CONTENTS
Index 298
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .298 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . .307
Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . .306
List of Maps
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially
true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making
your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experi-
ences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to
stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets,
all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun
Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family
Frommers.com
Now that you have this guidebook to help you plan a great trip, visit our website at www.
frommers.com for additional travel information on more than 3,500 destinations. We update
the site regularly, to give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information avail-
able. At Frommers.com, you’ll find scoops on the best airfares, lodging rates, and car rental bar-
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What’s New in Northern
New Mexico
N orthern New Mexico has come by its
“mañana” reputation honestly. Usually
primary colors—and the Abiquiu room,
which showcases photos of that crimson-
change happens . . . tomorrow. But there rock country. See chapter 5.
are some lively additions in the region WHERE TO DINE IN SANTA FE
well worth exploring. Many Santa Feans’ favorite new spot is
GETTING TO KNOW SANTA FE Aquasanta, 451 W. Alameda (& 505/
At this writing, one of the “City Differ- 982-6297). In a cozy hacienda-like
ent”’s landmarks, the Sweeney Conven- atmosphere complete with kiva fireplace,
tion Center, has been razed, with diners feast on fresh, often organic,
construction beginning soon on a larger, inventively prepared food. At lunch, the
more refined space, to be completed in lamb burger rates as one of the city’s best
2007. lunches. Santa Fe’s famed restaurant
WHERE TO STAY IN SANTA FE In Coyote Café, 132 Water St. (& 505/
2006, one of Santa Fe’s most notable 983-1615; www.coyotecafe.com/santafe.
addresses received a major remodel htm), has received a makeover, bringing
including addition of a spa. The newly the elegance of warm earth tones to the
named Eldorado Hotel & Spa, 309 W. space, complimenting its stellar creative
San Francisco St. (& 800/286-6755 or Southwestern menu. Another Santa Fe
505/988-4455; www.eldoradohotel.com) favorite receiving a makeover is Ristra,
has new furnishings, bedding, and decor 548 Agua Fria St. (& 505/982-8608;
in the rooms, and the Nidah Spa offers a www.ristrarestaurant.com). Now more
full range of treatments including their contemporary in its ambience, the food
signature turquoise gemstone therapy. still has an elegant blend of French and
Meanwhile, Santa Fe Budget Inn has also Southwestern flavors. And, the biggest
received a makeover and name change. change to an existing restaurant is the
Now called Santa Fe Sage Inn, 725 Cer- transformation of The Palace to Señor
rillos Rd. (& 866/433-0335 or 505/ Lucky’s at the Palace, 142 W. Palace
982-5952; www.santafesageinn.com), the Ave. (& 505/982-9891; www.senor
rooms have Southwest furnishings, with luckys.com). It now has a festive patio
Aztec-style bedding and whimsical art on and elegant Western interior and serves
the walls. And to announce yet another delectably complex foods by the same
moniker update: the Spencer House chef as the famed Geronimo. Try the
B&B has become AdobeStar Inn, tacos! If you’re looking for a bit of Italy,
222 McKenzie St. & 800/647-0350 or head to Trattoria Nostrani, 304 Johnson
505/988-3024; www.adobestarinn.com). St. (& 505/983-3800; www.trattoria
Under new ownership, the rooms have nostrani.com), a Northern Italian cafe not
taken on Southwestern themes such as far from the plaza. The chefs there visit
an O’Keeffe room—decorated in bright Italy each year to enhance their offerings
2 W H AT S N E W
such as roasted quail with sweet Italian condos at the very base of the mountain
sausage or rack of lamb. Meanwhile, the offer all the luxuries of home. See
chef at notable 315 has opened an Ameri- chapter 12.
can food restaurant that has locals talk- WHERE TO DINE IN TAOS The
ing. The Railyard Restaurant & Saloon, Taos dining scene, always imaginative,
530 S. Guadalupe St. (& 505/989-3300; has a few new notches on its hostess
www.railyardrestaurantandsaloon.com), stand. First, La Folie, 106-B Paseo del
offers tasty steaks and other types of fare Pueblo Norte (& 505/751-7549), offers
as well. The sesame-and-panko-crusted elegant French food in a relaxed urban
tuna is dynamite. On Canyon Road, the environment. Lunch has soups, salads,
new spot to sip beer and watch the world and sandwiches, while dinner offers
pass by is Sol Café, 802 Canyon Rd. stacked creations with delectable accou-
(& 505/989-1949; www.solcafesantafe. trements such as tenderloin with saffron
com). While you’re there, have an Asian polenta. Though it has been in town for
chicken salad or the wild mahimahi with seven years, Caffé Renato, 133 Paseo del
a macadamia crust. See chapter 6. Pueblo Norte (& 505/758-0244; www.
WHAT TO SEE & DO IN SANTA FE johnfarnsworth.com/cafferenato.htm),
The “City Different”’s newest way to has moved to a stellar location just steps
relax is with an Indo-Asian spa treatment from the plaza. The restaurant offers
at Absolute Nirvana Spa, Tea Room & American and Italian fare in a gallery set-
Gardens, 106 Faithway St. (& 505/ ting. The front and back patios are the
983-7942; www.absolutenirvana.com). place to be in summer, eating salads or
The spa has master-level therapists who panini sandwiches or salmon with lemon
use plants, herbs, and spices in their treat- tarragon aioli. Taoseños are bowled over
ments. See p. 133. by Gutiz, 812-B Paseo del Pueblo Norte
EXCURSIONS FROM SANTA FE (& 505/758-1226), a French-Latin fusion
The High Road Marketplace, a co-op spot in a modest space north of town.
gallery off the Santuario de Chimayo plaza Some come for the fresh baked bread with
(& 866/343-5381 or 505/351-1078; brie at breakfast or the pork tenderloin
www.highroadnewmexico.com), offers art with onion confit at lunch. Ice cream
and crafts from all over northern New lovers congregate at Taos Cow, 485 NM
Mexico, with an excellent collection of 150, Arroyo Seco (& 505/776-5640;
devotional crosses. Also along the High www.taoscow.com). Breakfast tacos and
Road to Taos, in a vintage theater in the sandwiches are a prelude to ice cream
village of Peñasco, the Sugar Nymphs made with natural ingredients in flavors
Bistro, 15046 NM 75 (& 505/587- such as cherry ristra or simply good old
0311), serves inventive food such as a pork chocolate. See chapter 13.
tenderloin with chipotle cream sauce. See WHAT TO SEE & DO IN TAOS The
chapter 10. Kit Carson Home and Museum, 113
WHERE TO STAY IN TAOS For bet- Kit Carson Rd. (& 505/758-4613), has
ter or worse, the Taos Ski Valley seems to become a whole different museum from
be condo-izing. Last year the Edelweiss its predecessor, which closed in 2004. It
made the move. This year the Snakedance now offers a glimpse of the sparseness of
has become Snakedance Condomini- 19th-century frontier-town life.
ums & Spa, 110 Sutton Place (& 800/ WHERE TO STAY IN ALBU-
332-9815 or 505/776-2277; www. QUERQUE The Sheraton Old Town
snakedancecondos.com). These upscale has come under new management and
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