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Borneo
Contents
PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Borneo
Borneo's Top 15
Need to Know
If You Like...
Month by Month
Itineraries
Outdoor Adventures
Diving Pulau Sipadan
Regions at a Glance

ON THE ROAD

SABAH
Sabah Highlights
Kota Kinabalu
Around Kota Kinabalu
Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park
 Northwestern Sabah
Mt Kinabalu & Kinabalu National Park
Around Mt Kinabalu
Northwest Coast
Offshore Islands
Eastern Sabah
Sandakan
Sepilok
Sandakan Archipelago
Sungai Kinabatangan
Lahad Datu
Danum Valley Conservation Area
Tabin Wildlife Reserve
Semporna
Semporna Archipelago
Tawau
Tawau Hills Park
Maliau Basin Conservation Area
Southwestern Sabah
The Interior
Beaufort Division
Pulau Tiga National Park
Pulau Labuan

SARAWAK
Sarawak Highlights
Kuching
Western Sarawak
Bako National Park
Santubong Peninsula
Kuching Wetlands National Park
Semenggoh Nature Reserve
Kampung Benuk
Kampung Annah Rais
Kubah National Park
Bau & Around
Lundu
Gunung Gading National Park
Sematan
Tanjung Datu National Park
Talang-Satang National Park
Batang Ai Region
Central Sarawak
Sibu
Batang Rejang
Bintulu
Similajau National Park
Niah National Park
Lambir Hills National Park
 Miri
Northeastern Sarawak
Gunung Mulu National Park
Kelabit Highlands
Limbang Division

BRUNEI
Brunei Highlights
Bandar Seri Begawan
Tutong & Belait Districts
Tutong
Jalan Labi
Temburong District
Pulau Selirong
Bangar & Around
Batang Duri
Ulu Temburong National Park
Brunei Survival Guide

KALIMANTAN
Pontianak
Sungai Kapuas
Sukadana
Tanjung Puting National Park
Kumai
Pangkalan Bun
 Palangka Raya
Banjarmasin
Kandangan
Negara
Loksado
Balikpapan
Samarinda
Sungai Mahakam
The Muller Mountains
Kutai National Park
Berau
Merabu
Derawan Archipelago

UNDERSTAND

Understand Borneo
Borneo Today
History
Peoples & Cultures
The Cuisines of Borneo
Natural World
SURVIVE

Responsible Travel
Cultural Etiquette
Wildlife
Diving
Volunteering

Directory AZ
Accommodation
Children
Customs Regulations
Electricity
Embassies & Consulates
Food
Insurance
Internet Access
Legal Matters
LGBT Travellers
Maps
Money
Opening Hours
Public Holidays
Safe Travel
 Telephone
Time
Toilets
Tourist Information
Travellers with Disabilities
Visas
Women Travellers

Transport
Getting There & Away
Getting Around

Health
Before You Go
In Borneo

Language
Behind the Scenes
Our Writers

SPECIAL FEATURES

Borneo in Colour
Welcome to Borneo
It's a jungle out there! Borneo has some of the
world's most species-rich equatorial rainforests
with prime patches that are easily accessible from
modern, multiethnic cities.

Ancient Rainforests
If you've always longed to experience the humid fecundity of a real
equatorial rainforest, Borneo will fulfil your wildest dreams. The island's
jungles conjure up remoteness and adventure, bringing to mind
impenetrable foliage and river trips into the 'heart of darkness'. But look a
little closer and nuances emerge: the pitcher plants, lianas and orchids of the
lowland forest give way to conifers and rhododendrons as you ascend the
flanks of Mt Kinabalu. Deforestation makes for depressing headlines, but
significant parts of the Bornean rainforest remain intact, protected by
conservation projects whose viability depends in part on income from
tourists.

Jungle Wildlife
For many visitors to Borneo, their most memorable moment is glimpsing a
wild orangutan swinging through the jungle canopy, spotting an Irrawaddy
dolphin in the shimmering waters of the South China Sea, or locking eyes
with the reptilian gaze of a saltwater croc. Jungle animals are shy by nature,
but a good guide can help you tell the difference between a vine and vine
snake, between a twig and a stick insect, and between the call of a gibbon
and the cry of a hornbill.

Cultural Riches
Borneo brings together an astonishing array of cultures, religions and
languages, and age-old traditions of hospitality mean visitors are welcomed.
Most cities have significant Chinese communities, while the picturesque
coastal kampung (villages) of Sabah and Sarawak are populated mainly by
Malays, but head inland and the dominant culture is indigenous. Borneo's
Dayak groups stopped headhunting long ago, but many other ancient
customs and ceremonies live on in longhouse communities. There's no
better way to experience the indigenous way of life than to drop by for a
visit – easy to arrange with a local guide.

Culinary Melting Pot

The varied ethnic and cultural backgrounds of Borneo's people means the
island's cuisines are as wide-ranging as they are delicious. Seafood from the
South China Sea is served fresh at Chinese restaurants, smoky chicken
satay stalls beckon at Malay night markets and Indonesian eateries offer
spicy sambal. Even tiny Brunei has its own culinary traditions, not to
mention Borneo's numerous indigenous groups. From the sublime cooking
of the Kelabit people – including Bario rice and pineapple curry – to dishes
such as bamboo chicken and midin jungle fern, Dayak cuisine is unlike
anything you've ever tasted.
Summit of Mt KinabaluYVES ANDRE/GETTY IMAGES ©
Why I Love Borneo
By Isabel Albiston, Writer
I've often found that it's in places of true wildness and potential peril that
human warmth and kindness is most immediate, and nowhere is that more
true than in Borneo. There is a sense of magic in this land where the forest
itself is believed to be inhabited by spirits who may or may not wish you well,
and trekking from longhouse to longhouse means shimmying across rickety
bamboo bridges, collecting wild mushrooms and fiddlehead ferns for dinner
and keeping an eye out for wildlife – possibly even shaggy orangutans –
moving through the canopy above.
Borneo's Top 15
Gunung Mulu National Park
If the only marvel at Sarawak's Gunung Mulu National Park were
some of the biggest caverns on earth, and the only fauna were the
twirling, spiralling clouds of bats that emerge from the Deer Cave at
dusk, it would still deserve Unesco World Heritage status. And if the
only activity was spotting 20cm-long stick insects on a night walk, the
flight from Miri would still be worth it. But add in Gunung Mulu and
the Pinnacles and you have one of Southeast Asia's true wonders.

ROBBIE SHONE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Maliau Basin
You came to Borneo looking for something wild, right? The Maliau in
Sabah is as wild as it gets. The basin is a rock-rimmed depression
filled with primary rainforest – that's untouched, uncut jungle, as old
as the hills. We asked a local ranger what he thought of the Maliau,
and his Malay response was 'Adan da Hawa' – Adam and Eve.
That's how fresh and perfect this forest feels, and while it may look
expensive to enter, with a bit of initiative you too can experience the
world as it once was.
Maliau FallsJASON ISLEY - SCUBAZOO/GETTY IMAGES ©
Top Experiences

Tanjung Puting National Park

Arguably one of the best places in the world to experience close-up
encounters with semi-wild orangutans, Kalimantan's Tanjung Puting
offers an unforgettable upriver journey on a chugging klotok: a boat
that's both your home and your lookout tower. Sleep with fireflies
under the stars on the top deck, wake to the call of gibbons in the
morning, and watch Borneo's critically endangered, charismatic
orangutans as they swing ponderously through the open jungle to
the feeding platforms.

BARRY KUSUMA/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Mt Kinabalu
Sabah's Mt Kinabalu is so many things we don't know where to start.
Highest mountain in Borneo and Malaysia? Check. Climbable even
by novices, but great fun for veteran trekkers? Check. Abode of the
spirits of local indigenous tribes? Check. Home to several unique-to-
Borneo ecosystems and some 6000 plant species, many of them
endemic? Check. Even on an island bursting with astonishing natural
beauty, the sight of Mt Kinabalu's peak early in the morning causes
most folks to lose their breath.

MATT MUNRO/LONELY PLANET ©

Top Experiences

Kelabit Highlands
The air is clean and cool, the rice fields impossibly green, the local
cuisine scrumptious, and the hiking – from longhouse to longhouse –
some of the best in Borneo, but the star attraction in the Kelabit
Highlands is the people, justifiably famous for their ready smiles and
easy way with visitors. Getting to this remote corner of northeastern
Sarawak is half the fun – you can either bust your butt on logging
roads for 12 hours or take an exhilarating flight in a 19-seat Twin
Otter turboprop.

Bario Asal LonghouseVICTOR PAUL BORG/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Top Experiences

Danum Valley
If the primeval jungle of Sabah's Danum Valley makes you think of
dinosaurs, we'll understand – the area really does look like Jurassic
Park. Confirmed sightings of a T. rex eating a lawyer? Not that we
know of, but visitors often spot pygmy elephants, wild orangutans
and clouds of bird life. Some, though, don't actually see any animals
at all, as the jungle is so thick it can cloak fauna mere metres from
where you're standing. But that’s part of Danum's enchanting and
timeless appeal.

MINT IMAGES - FRANS LANTING/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Kuching
Borneo's most sophisticated city is a charming combination of
atmospheric old town, romantic waterfront, fine cuisine for all
budgets and buzzing nightlife. But the city's biggest draw is what's
nearby: some of Sarawak's finest natural sites, easy to visit on day
trips. You can spot semi-wild orangutans or search out a giant
rafflesia flower in the morning, look for proboscis monkeys and wild
crocs on a sundown cruise in the South China Sea, and then dine on
super-fresh seafood or crunchy midin fern tips.

TOM COCKREM/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Loksado
Nestled by a rushing stream in the foothills of the Meratus in
Kalimantan, scenic Loksado feels more like a mountain retreat than
part of Borneo. There are waterfalls, swimming holes, endless hiking
opportunities, hot springs, bamboo rafting, and lots of friendly locals.
Accommodation options are sparse, but you'll find everything you
need for an extended stay, including a great riverside budget lodge
and a new private resort. Backpackers take note: if you need to re-
energise, this is the place.

PITGREENWOOD/GETTY IMAGES ©
Top Experiences

Semenggoh Nature Reserve

With free-roam of the reserve's rainforest and fruit trees, the semi-
wild orangutans at Semenggoh Nature Reserve near Kuching in
Sarawak are not guaranteed to show up at the twice-daily feeding
sessions, but there's a pretty good chance of catching the endlessly
entertaining sight of our shaggy jungle cousins stuffing half a dozen
bananas into their mouths, grabbing a coconut and then scrambling
back up into the jungle canopy – swinging from tree to tree, dangling
nonchalantly from vines and taking care of their adorable infants.

Male Bornean orangutanRMNUNES/GETTY IMAGES ©

Another Random Scribd Document
with Unrelated Content
have been laughed at for my pains. But were I to come forward after
the event and admit that before the outrage occurred, and while yet
there was time to prevent it, I had suspected the man with the brown
bag to be James Mullen, and yet had withheld my suspicions from
the police, I might be looked upon as less of a fool than a scoundrel.
My motives for having kept silent would be open to the worst
interpretation, and I should be everywhere denounced as an enemy
of society whose criminal vanity had made him think himself capable
of coping single-handed with the greatest artist in crime of the
century, and whose yet more criminal greed and anxiety to secure
the entire reward for himself had led him to withhold from the proper
authorities information by means of which the capture of the arch-
murderer might have been effected and the last dreadful outrage
prevented.
Knowing, as I did, how uncontrollable was the feeling of the
populace in regard to the outrage, I could not disguise from myself
that a man who made such a confession as I had to make, would—
should he be recognised in the streets—run a very good chance of
being mobbed, if not lynched.
An infuriated mob is not given to make nice distinctions, and so
long as it has a scapegoat on which to wreak vengeance it does not
wait to inquire too particularly into the question of the scapegoat’s
innocence or guilt.
Let the object of its wrath be not forthcoming, and let some evil or
foolish person raise the cry that this or that luckless passer-by is the
offender’s relative or friend, or even that he has been seen coming
from the offender’s house, or is of the same nationality, and in nine
cases out of ten the mob will “go” for the luckless wight en masse.
I have made a study of that wild beast which we call “a mob”—the
one wild beast which civilisation has given us in exchange for the
many she has driven away—and knowing something of the creature
and its habits, I must confess that I would rather fall into the jaws of
the wild beast of the jungle, than into the clutches of the wilder beast
of the city and the slum.
 One day—one not very distant day—that wild beast will turn and
rend its keepers, and when once the thing has tasted human blood it
will not be beaten back into its lair with its thirst for blood unglutted.
To be mobbed or lynched in a noble cause and in support of a
great principle is not without its compensations, but there is no glory
in being subjected to physical violence and personal insult as a
scoundrel and a knave.
Worse, however, than the possibility of being mobbed was the
certainty of being held up in many quarters as an object for public
odium and private scorn, and the more I thought about it the less
inclined did I feel to face the consequences of confessing the part
which I had played in the recent tragedy. It was upon my own
responsibility, I argued, that I had entered upon the enterprise, and
so long as I kept within the law it was to myself only that I was
responsible for the way in which that enterprise was carried on. That
I had failed meant nothing more than that what had happened to
those whose business and whose duty it was to have succeeded,
had happened also to me; and, after all, I left things no worse than
they were when I took the matter up.
Had it been my intention to abandon my quest I should have no
choice but to acquaint New Scotland Yard with what had come to my
knowledge. But, as a matter of fact, I was more than ever set on
bringing the miscreant, Captain Shannon, to justice—and this not
merely for the sake of reward, or because of the craving for
adventure which had first urged me to the enterprise, but because of
the loathing which I entertained for the monster whom I had with my
own eyes seen at his hellish work. Hence I was justified, I told
myself, in keeping my information to myself, and the more so for the
fact that, were I to say all I knew, the particulars would no doubt be
made public, and in this way reach the ears of Captain Shannon,
thus defeating the very end for which I had made my confession.
Into the questions whether the decision to which I came was right
or wrong, and whether the arguments, with which I sought to square
my decision with my conscience and my sense of duty, were
founded on self-interest and inclination rather than on reason, I will
not here enter.
When that decision was once made, I gave no further thought to
the rights or wrongs of the matter, but dismissing every such
consideration from my mind I concentrated all my energies upon the
task of finding Captain Shannon.
And first, I decided to pay a visit to Southend to see if the little
brown cutter was still there, and if not, to discover what had become
of it.
As one walks down the High Street from the station, the pier lies
directly in front, running out a mile and a quarter to sea on its myriad
slender feet like a giant centipede. To the right are the shady
shrubberies and sunny grass-crowned cliffs of New Southend, and to
the left, with lips stooped to the water’s edge, the Old Town straggles
away seaward, a long line of picturesque irregular buildings—some
cheerful red, others warm yellow, and a few cool gray—reminding
one not a little of some quaint French or Belgian port blinking in the
morning sunshine.
And oh! such skies! such cloud-pomp and pageantry, and, above
all, such sunrises and sunsets! Such dance and sparkle of moving
water when the tide is in, and, more beautiful still, when the tide is
out, such play of light and shadow, such wonderful wealth of colour
on the marshy flats—here a patch of royal purple or opalescent
green, there a rose-gray or pearly-pink, with little shining pools
changing from blue to silver and silver to blue with the passing of
every cloud.
Southend is a pretty spot at any time, but after a month spent on a
sick bed in a stuffy London side-street, the view from the pier-hill
seemed to me exceptionally beautiful.
As I stood there drinking my fill of the sweet, strong, brackish air,
and basking in the sunshine, I was conscious of being scrutinised
quietly but very keenly by a man who was lounging near the Royal
Hotel.
 There was nothing in his appearance or dress—white flannel
trousers and shirt, cricketing blazer and straw hat—to distinguish him
from the hundreds of holiday makers in like attire who are to be seen
in and about Southend during the season, but I recognised him at
once, and with some alarm, as one of the cleverest officers of the
detective force, and one, moreover, who had been specially told off
to effect the capture of Mullen.
In detective stories, as in pantomimes—no doubt for the same
reason—the policeman is too often held up to scorn and ridicule as
an incompetent bungler who is more dangerous to the hearts of
susceptible servant girls than to law-breakers, and more given to
deeds of prowess in connection with the contents of the pantry than
in protecting the lives or properties of her Majesty’s subjects. The
hero of the detective story is very often a brilliant amateur, of whom
the police are secretly jealous, notwithstanding the fact that
whenever they have a difficult case they come, hat in hand, to seek
his assistance. This, after a little light banter for the benefit of the
Boswell who is to chronicle his marvellous doings—and in the course
of which, by-the-bye, the fact that the police are about to arrest the
wrong man is not unfrequently elicited—he condescends to give, the
understanding between him and them being that he shall do the
work and they take the credit.
Why the amateur detective should be the victim of a modesty
which is not always characteristic of the amateur in other professions
does not transpire, but the arrangement is extremely convenient to
the policeman and to the author, the latter probably adopting it lest
inquisitive readers should ask why, if there are such brilliant amateur
detectives as authors would have us to believe, we never hear of
them in real life.
Now I should be the last man in the world to cheapen the work of
my fellow-craftsmen. I hold that there is no more unmistakable mark
of a mean mind than is evinced in the desire to extol oneself at the
expense of others, but none the less I must enter my protest against
what I cannot but consider an unwarrantable imputation upon a very
deserving body of men.
 Detectives and policemen, taken as a whole, are by no means the
bunglers and boobies that they are made out to be in the
pantomimes and in the pages of detective stories. I do not say that
they are all born geniuses in the detection of crime, for genius is no
commoner among detectives than it is among bakers, bankers,
clergymen, novelists, barristers, or cooks. But what I do say is that
the rank and file of them are painstaking and intelligent men, who do
their duty to the public conscientiously and efficiently; and to dub
them all duffers, because now and then a detective is caught
napping, is as unjust as to pronounce all clergymen fools because a
silly sermon is sometimes preached from a pulpit.
I had managed to get ahead of the police in the investigation I was
conducting, not because of the shining abilities with which I was
endowed, for as the reader knows I had bungled matters sadly on
more than one occasion, but because Fate had thrown a clue in my
way at the start. But I have never underrated the acuteness and
astuteness of the representatives of the Criminal Department from
New Scotland Yard, and it did not greatly surprise me to find, when I
commenced operations again at Southend, that though the little
brown cutter was still lying off the same spot, she was being closely
watched by men whom I knew to be detectives.
Whether they had discovered the relationship between Mullen and
the owner of the “Odd Trick,” and in following up the clue had traced
the boat to Southend, or whether they were in possession of
information unknown to me which led them to believe the fugitive
had been hiding in the neighbourhood, I could not say; but that they
were there to effect the capture of Mullen, should he return to the
cutter, I made no doubt.
Mullen, however, was apparently too wary a bird to come back to
the nest until he had satisfied himself that no net had been spread
there to catch him, for that he had got wind of what was going on at
Southend seemed probable from the fact that he never put in an
appearance there again. Nor would it have profited me personally if
he had, for in that case I could scarcely hope to forestall the police in
the matter of his arrest.
 Under the circumstances it would be mere waste of time to stay in
Southend, and the question I had now to ask myself was, “Where,
then, is he likely to be?”
As crime begets crime, so question begets question, and “Where,
then, is he likely to be?” had scarcely come to the birth before it was
itself in travail with, “Why not on the ‘Cuban Queen’?”
 CHAPTER XXVII
I PLAY A GAME OF “BLUFF” WITH HUGHES

“Why not on the ‘Cuban Queen’ indeed?” I repeated, as I called to

mind the fact that it was there Mullen had lain secure when the hue
and cry were at their height. It was only when the hue and cry had
somewhat subsided that he had ventured forth to commence his
devilry afresh; and what was more likely, now that the hue and cry
had been raised once more, than that he should have crept back to
his former hiding-place?
The next afternoon I was in the little cottage at Canvey again, and
should have been there sooner but for the fact that I wished first to
satisfy myself that my movements were not being watched by the
police.
I did not intend on this occasion to waste time in trying to find out
whether Hughes had any one on board with him or not, especially as
I was now without Quickly’s assistance. This was a case in which it
seemed to me safer to achieve my purpose by a bold stroke than to
adopt the more cautious course of beating about the bush. The thing
to do would be to engage Hughes in conversation, and when he was
off his guard to charge him suddenly with sheltering a fugitive from
justice on board the “Cuban Queen.” The cleverest rogue is apt to
betray himself when a surprise is thus sprung upon him, and such a
clumsy rascal as Hughes should not be difficult to deal with. I did not
doubt that he would deny the impeachment with much bluster and
more bad language, but by keeping a keen eye upon his face when
playing my game of “bluff” I hoped to be able to come to some
definite conclusion in regard to the theory I had formed concerning
Mullen’s whereabouts.
But I had yet to catch the hare which I felt so competent to cook,
and of the two tasks the former promised to be the more difficult.
Hughes, as the reader already knows, did not often leave the hulk,
and as it was quite out of the question that I should seek him there,
some plan for making it necessary for him to come ashore must be
devised. After much brain-cudgelling I hit upon an idea which I
immediately proceeded to carry out. The oil which was burned in
Hughes’ cabin was taken out to him every Monday and Thursday by
the attendant whose duty it was to fetch and carry for the caretakers
of the hulks. I knew that it was so as the man had to pass my door
on his way to the boat, and I had seen the tin can in his hand
repeatedly. As a matter of fact, I was at that moment reminded of the
matter, for the day was Thursday, and the man in question was just
going by my gate, carrying the can in one hand and a small sack of
potatoes in the other. If I did not avail myself of this opportunity I
should have to wait until the following Monday before taking action,
so I at once opened the door and hailed him.
“I want you to do a little commission for me,” I said. “You’ll be
going down to the village some time to-day, I know. Could you leave
a letter to Mr. Hayes at the vicarage?”
“Yes, sir,” he said civilly; “with pleasure.”
“That’s right. Put that sack and the can down and come into the
other room while I scribble the letter. I daresay I can find you a glass
of grog in there and a cut of cold beef if you feel like having a
mouthful.”
“Thank you, sir,” he said, unburdening himself of his load and
following me into the inner room. I had not finished my own breakfast
very long, and a small joint was still on the table.
“Pull up and help yourself,” I said, producing knife and fork.
“What’ll you have to drink? I’ve got some old rum. How’ll that suit
you?”
“Capital, sir,” he replied.
“All right. It’s in the other room, I think. I’ll be back in a moment.
You make a start, meanwhile, on the cold beef.”
No sooner was I in the other room with the closed door between
us than I whipped out the cork from the paraffin can, and seizing a
siphon of soda-water that stood upon the table—it was the only liquid
handy—I slipped the spout into the mouth of the can and pressed
the tap.
“If this isn’t pouring oil on the troubled waters it’s at least pouring
troubled waters on the oil,” I said to myself, when half a tumbler of
soda had hissed into the can. “There’ll be some rosy language about
when Hughes goes to light his lamp after filling it up with this stuff,
for he’ll never get it to light, much less to burn. And if he doesn’t
make the discovery too early the man who looks after his
requirements will be gone, and Master Hughes will have to sit in the
dark and go to bed with his supper uncooked, or come into Canvey
and get some more oil. He may, of course, get filling up his cooking
stove in the daytime, and find the oil won’t burn, or he may have
enough left in it to carry him through. But anyhow, if the thing doesn’t
work out as I hope, there will be no harm done, for at the worst they
can only suppose that some water has accidentally got into the can.”
The thing did work out as I had hoped, however, for as night was
beginning to close in I saw Hughes unlashing the dinghy as if to
come ashore, and judging from the sounds which broke the evening
stillness I had reason to believe that he was at his old habit of
swearing aloud to himself. This is a habit which is more soothing to
the swearer than to an enforced listener, especially when the
swearer is rowing a heavy boat against the tide, and jerks out a fresh
and aggressively emphasised oath with each expulsion of breath. On
this occasion the hopes which were expressed about the soul, eyes,
limbs, and internal organs of every one who had been connected
with the offending oil, beginning with the individual who “struck” it,
and finishing off with the shopkeeper who sold it, and the man who
brought it to the hulks, were distinctly uncharitable.
Nor did Hughes confine himself to human beings, for the
unfortunate can in which the oil had been carried and the various
matches which had been struck in his unavailing efforts to light the
lamp were with strict impartiality similarly banned.
“Oil!” he growled as he ran the boat ashore. “I’ll oil ’im and the man
wot sold it too!” (More hopes in regard to the soul, eyes, limbs, and
internal organs of the offender.) “A pretty fine fool ’e made o’ me,
standin’ there burnin’ my fingers and a box of matches trying to find
out what was wrong. Oil! Call that splutterin’ stuff oil! Why, I might as
well ’ave tried to set fire to the river.”
Still swearing, he made fast the dinghy and proceeded, can in
hand, in the direction of the village.
After a time I started to follow, and overtook him just as he was
passing my cottage.
“Good-night,” I called out over my shoulder in passing, as is the
custom in the country.
He replied by bidding me go to a place which, though it may likely
enough have been his ultimate destination, I sincerely hope may
never be mine nor the reader’s.
“I’m sure I know that dulcet voice,” I said, stopping and wheeling
round. “It must be, it is, the genial Hughes. How are you, my worthy
fellow?”
The worthy fellow intimated that his health was not noticeably
affected for the better by the sight of me.
“Oh, don’t say that,” I said. “You were most hospitable to me in the
matter of drinks when I had the pleasure of spending a very
delightful hour in your company on board the ‘Cuban Queen’ one
evening. Pray let me return the compliment. This is my cottage, and
I’ve got some excellent whisky aboard. Won’t you come in and have
a glass?”
This was a temptation not to be withstood, and he replied a little
more civilly that he “didn’t mind,” and even unbent so far as to
answer Yes or No to one or two casual remarks I made.
When he rose to go, some spirit of mischief prompted me to ask
him what he had in the oilcan, and this, apparently recalling his
grievance, put him in the worst of tempers again, for he snatched at
it, savagely blurting out,—
“What the dickens ’as that got to do with you?”
 “Keep a civil tongue in your head, you scoundrel!” I said sharply,
taking a step towards him. “Answer me like that again, and I’ll give
you a lesson you won’t forget!”
“You, yer bloomin’ monkey!” he snarled, spitting on the ground in
front of me as an outward and visible sign of his contempt. “You give
me a lesson! And where should I be, do yer think?”
I looked him full in the face and shot my bolt.
“You would be in prison, my good fellow, for harbouring a
murderer, disguised as a woman, and you’d be charged with being
an accessory after the fact.”
He stepped back, paling visibly under his bronze complexion, and
answered, for once, without an oath.
“’E ain’t a murderer. ’E’s a private soldier wot struck ’is superior
officer for comin’ between ’im and ’is wife, and then deserted. I see it
myself in the paper ’e showed me, and I’d ’a done the same if I’d bin
in ’is place. And so ’ud you, Mister.”
“Ho, ho! my friend,” I said to myself. “I was a ‘monkey’ a moment
ago—now I’m a ‘Mister.’ So you are funking it already, are you?”
And then, aloud,—
“Do you think any jury will believe that you thought a private
soldier could afford to pay you what that man’s paying? Now, look
here! I’ve got the whip hand of you, but I don’t wish you any harm,
personally. If you’ll do exactly as I tell you, and play me fair, I’ll pay
you the sum that yonder man’s paying you, and you sha’n’t get into
any trouble if I can help it.”
“Wot d’ yer want me to do?” he asked.
“Answer me one question first. Supposing I were to arrange to
take your place on the ‘Cuban Queen’ for a couple of days. In that
case the man who waits on the hulks would have to be squared to
keep his mouth shut. Could that be done?”
“P’raps. ’E ain’t the inspector. ’E’s paid to wait on us, so as we
don’t ’ave to leave the ’ulks. ’Tain’t ’is business to look after what we
do. P’raps ’e might if it wos worth ’is while.”
“Very well. I’ll give you the money to-night to square him, and
some on account for yourself as well. And now another question.
Where does your wife live?”
“Mill Lane, Chelmsford.”
“That’s all right. When you get back to the ‘Cuban Queen’ you’ll
get a telegram from Chelmsford to say she’s dying, and that you
must go to her. You must show that to the man you’ve got aboard.
What do you call him by-the-bye?”
“Winton.”
“Well, you must show the telegram to Winton, and tell him you
intend applying for leave, and that he must go somewhere else in the
meantime. He won’t want to leave the only safe hiding-place he’s
got, and he’ll try and persuade you not to go, and will perhaps offer
you a big money bribe to stay. You must persist in going; but after a
time you must say that you have a brother at Southend who could
come and take your place while you are away, and that you are sure
he’d keep his mouth shut if he were well paid. Winton will have to
consent if you persist. Then you’ll send a telegram to me, as if I were
your brother, asking me to come over to see you; and when I come
you’ll show me the telegram and ask me to take charge of the hulk
while you go away to see your wife. I shall come at night, so as not
to be seen, and shall pretend to agree, and then you can go ashore
and put up at my cottage here until I signal you to return. Do as I tell
you, and play me fair, and I’ll give you fifty pounds for yourself when
it’s all over. What do you say?”
“Can’t be done,” he answered sullenly.
“Why not?”
“’Cos it can’t.”
“Very well. Good-night, then. I’m going straight from this house to
the coastguard station, and shall send two armed men out to the
hulk to arrest the murderer you’ve been harbouring, and two more to
arrest you—you can’t get far away in the meantime—for harbouring
him and for being an accessory after the fact. I suppose you know
what the punishment for that is? And when you come out you’ll be a
ruined man. The hulk-owners will discharge you without a character
for gross violation of rules.”
He looked murder, and had he been less of a coward might have
attempted as well as looked it. Then something seemed to occur to
him, and he stood staring absently at me while turning the matter
over in his bovine brain. I guessed the upshot of his meditations to
be somewhat as follows: “This man, whoever he is, has me in his
power and can ruin me. I wish he were out of the way, but I don’t
mean risking my own neck for him. If I let him go on the hulk Winton
is more than likely to suspect he’s a spy. In that case he’s just the
sort of man to knock the meddling fool on the head, and the job I
want done would get done without my putting my neck in a noose.”
Anyhow, he looked at me curiously for a minute, and then said, in
a more conciliatory tone,—
“What are you going to do to Winton?”
“Arrest him by-and-bye. If I can I’ll keep your name out of it. If I
can’t, and you lose your crib, I’ll make it up to you in some way. But
let me tell you one thing: you’d better play me fair, or it will be the
worse for you. The ‘Cuban Queen’ is being watched night and day,
and if you tell Winton of your meeting with me, and he tries to
escape or you try to give us the slip yourself, you’ll be instantly
arrested, and it will go hard with you then. Play me fair and I’ll play
you fair, and no harm need come to you at all in the matter. Once
more, will you come to my terms? If not, I’m off to the coastguard
station. There’s only one policeman in Canvey, and I shall want two
or three men—armed men—for Winton, and the same for you. I
mean business, I can tell you. Come, is it Yes or No?”
“Yes,” he answered, with a horrible oath. And then we sat down to
arrange the details of our little conspiracy.
 CHAPTER XXVIII
I BOARD THE “CUBAN QUEEN” FOR THE
SECOND TIME

“But when you had satisfied yourself that there was a man in hiding
on the ‘Cuban Queen,’” says the reader, “and when you had every
reason for suspecting that man to be Mullen, why not at once arrest
him? Why go to work like Tom Sawyer in ‘Huckleberry Finn,’ who,
when he wished to rescue Jim the nigger from the woodshed, must
needs make a seven days’ job of it, and dig the poor wretch out,
when it would have been an easy matter to abstract the key and let
him out through the door?”
Why? Well, for several reasons, one of which is that the story
would then have been shorter and perhaps less interesting. Another
is that, though it is true I had good cause to suppose the man in
hiding to be James Mullen, I had no actual proof of his identity.
The reader must remember that I had seen him but twice in my
life. The first time was in the train, going down to Southend, when my
only cause for suspecting him to be Mullen was a fancied likeness to
the published portrait. The second was on the day of the explosion at
the Post Office, and on that occasion he had been cleverly
disguised, and we had not come to close quarters until after dark,
when the difficulty of identification is greatly increased.
Were I, as matters then stood, to give information to the police, I
could only claim to be the means of accomplishing his arrest,
whereas, if I could once obtain satisfactory proof of his identity my
chain of evidence would be complete, and now that I had spent so
much time, thought and money on the enterprise, I preferred to carry
it through myself rather than hand it over to some one else at the last
moment.
 By taking Hughes’ place upon the “Cuban Queen” I hoped to
obtain the necessary evidence, and once such evidence was in my
possession, I should lose no time in effecting an arrest.
The morning after my interview with Hughes I took train to
Chelmsford, and thence despatched the pretended telegram from his
wife. When I got back to Southend, the telegram which Hughes was
to send to his supposed brother was waiting for me at the address
we had arranged between us. Lest the police should be tampering
with letters and telegrams, I had arranged that Hughes’ message
should contain nothing more than a request that Bill Hughes would
come over to see his brother Jim at Canvey.
To Canvey I accordingly went, calling first at my cottage, where I
arrayed myself in a well-worn suit of waterman’s clothes, which I had
kept there all along lest I should at any time have to assume a
disguise. My next procedure was to shave off the beard which I had
been wearing on the night of the explosion at the Post Office. The
fact that the night had been very dark was against Mullen’s knowing
me again, for though the bursting of the bomb had lit up the whole
neighbourhood, the street in which our encounter had taken place
was entirely in shadow, owing to the height of the buildings on either
side.
That it was quite possible he would recognise me, if only by my
voice, I fully realised, and I knew perfectly well that every moment I
spent in his company my life would be in my own hands; but I
flattered myself that I was more than a match for him in a fair fight,
and in regard to foul play,—well, forewarned is forearmed, and I was
not unprepared.
I waited until it was dark before starting for the hulk. Hughes came
on deck in reply to my hail, and proved a better actor than might
have been expected. After he had inquired gruffly, “Is that you, Bill?”
and I had responded, “Bill it is, Jim,” and had been bidden come
aboard, he went on—in response to my question of “Wot’s up?”—to
speak his part in the little play which we had rehearsed together. He
informed me he had had a telegram to say that his wife was ill, and
that he wished to go to her, but did not like applying for relief
because he had a cove on board, disguised as a woman (this in a
lowered voice, according to instruction), who had got into a scrape
and wanted to lie low awhile.
My supposed brother then went on to ask me if I would take
charge of the hulk in his absence, assuring me that the cove was “a
good un to pay,” and that the job would be worth a five-pound note if
I promised to keep my mouth shut.
To all this Mullen was no doubt listening, so I replied—
emphasising my remark with the expectoration and expletives which
might be looked for from a seafaring man—that I was ready to take
over the job and keep my own counsel. That point being
satisfactorily settled, I was invited to step below and make the
acquaintance of the gentleman in the cabin.
 CHAPTER XXIX
I TRY A FALL WITH JAMES MULLEN

Some one dressed like a woman was standing by the stove whistling
softly to himself while paring his nails with a pearl-handled knife.
“My brother Bill, sir,” said Hughes gruffly, and I thought rather
nervously, indicating me with the peaked cloth cap which he carried,
rolled scrollwise, in his hand.
I followed suit with a bow, or rather a duck, and a polite “Good-
evening, sir,” but Mullen continued his nail-pairing and whistling
without deigning to look up.
For about a quarter of a minute I stood there feeling, and perhaps
looking, rather foolish. Then Hughes said again, and this time rather
louder, “My brother, sir.”
“There, there, my good fellow, that will do! I haven’t become deaf! I
hear you,” Mullen answered, without raising his head.
He spoke very much in the manner affected by some curates.
Each syllable was carefully pronounced and fell as cleanly cut as if it
had been new pennies which his lips were coining. The aspirates,
the “hear” and “there’s,” he discharged at us as if his mouth had
been a tiny popgun, and he roared at us gently as any sucking dove
with the cooing sound in such words as “do.”
But for all his nicety of speech he had too much of what is
commonly called “side” in his manner to delude any one into the idea
that he was a gentleman.
There is in the bearing of your true aristocrat towards strangers a
certain suave and urbane hauteur—as of one who expects and, if
need be, will exact the courtesy he is accustomed to accord—which
the man of no breeding thinks can be imitated by the assumption of
“side.”
 Without his “side” he might conceivably have passed for a
gentleman. As it is, he as surely betrays himself for what he is, as
the man who, by manifesting that over-anxiety to please—which he
mistakes for the easy courtesy of well-bred intercourse—betrays his
under-breeding.
Neither Hughes nor I made any reply to what Mullen had said—
nor did the latter seem to expect us to do so, for he looked critically
at his little finger, felt the nail with the tip of his thumb, put the finger
to his teeth, nibbled at it for an instant, and then began scraping the
nail edge very gingerly.
Chafed at his insolence as I was, I could not help noticing that his
hands were small, white, and beautifully shaped, with the long taper
fingers of the artist, and pink carefully-trimmed nails.
When he had quite finished, he closed the knife deliberately and
put it on a little shelf by the bunk, then darting a sudden sideways
glance at me, he inquired sharply, almost viciously, “Well, sir, and
what have you to say for yourself?”
It was the first time he had looked at me since I had entered the
cabin, and as I met his eye it seemed to me that he started
perceptibly, and that I saw a sudden dilatation of the pupil which
gave a look of consternation if not of fear to his face. The next
moment he turned from me and flashed at Hughes a look of such
malignity that I fully expected to see the look succeeded by a blow—
a look which, if I read it aright, was the portent of a terrible
vengeance to the man who had played him false.
I am almost ashamed to write what followed. Not for the first time
in my life—not for the first time in this enterprise—I acted as only one
could act who was possessed by some spirit of mischief for his own
undoing. Even to myself the impulse which comes over me at times
to play the fool—to say or do at the critical moment the one word or
thing which ought to be left unsaid or undone, is altogether
unaccountable.
This uncertainty of character, this tendency to lose my head and to
bring tumbling about my ears, by the utterance of a word, the entire
edifice which I have perhaps spent laborious months in building up,
has been my stumbling-block through life, and must inevitably stand
in the way of my ever becoming a good detective. But a good
detective I have, as the reader knows, never claimed to be. Were it
so, I should undoubtedly suppress the incident I am about to relate,
for it tells very much against myself without in any way strengthening
the probability of my story.
When the man in hiding on the “Cuban Queen” lifted his head and
looked me in the face, I knew at once that I was in the presence, if
not of James Mullen, at all events of the person with whom I had
travelled to Southend on the occasion when he had objected so
forcibly to the striking of a fusee. The bright prominent eyes,
beautiful as a woman’s, the delicately clear complexion, the straw-
coloured hair, the aquiline nose with the strange upward arching of
the nostrils, the curious knitting of the brows over the eyes, the full
lips that spoke of voluptuousness unscrupulous and cruel, the firm,
finely-moulded chin—all these there was no mistaking, in spite of his
woman’s dress. As I looked at him the scene in the stuffy smoking
carriage on the Southend railway came back to me, and when in his
quick, incisive way he asked, “Well, sir, and what have you to say for
yourself?” I stammered foolishly for a moment, and then, prompted
by what spirit of perversity and mischief I know not, answered him by
another question, which under the circumstances must have
sounded like intentional insolence.
“You’re the man wot couldn’t stand the smell of fusees?”
Had horns suddenly sprouted out on each side of my head he
could not have looked at me with more absolute amazement and
dismay. For a very few seconds he stared wide-eyed with wonder,
and then a look of comprehension and cunning crept into his eyes.
They narrowed cat-like and cruel, the muscles about the cheeks
tightened, the lips parted, showing the clenched teeth, I heard his
breath coming and going like that of a winded runner, and the next
second his face flamed out with a look of such devilish ferocity and
uncontrollable fury as I pray God I may never see on face of man
again.
 With a howl of hatred more horrible than that of any tiger—for no
wild beast is half so hellish in its cruelty as your human tiger—he
sprang at me, beating at my face, now with closed fist, now open-
handed and with clutching, tearing nails, kicking with his feet, biting
and snapping at my hands and throat like a dog, and screaming like
a very madman.
To this day it consoles me not a little for the lapse of self-
possession which I had just before manifested to think that I never
lost presence of mind during this onslaught. When he came at me,
my one thought was to see that he made use of no weapons. His
wild-cat clawing and scratching it was no difficult matter for any one
with a quick eye and cool head to ward off; but when I saw him clap
his hand to his hip, where, had he been wearing male clothing, a
pistol or knife might well have lain, the eye I kept upon him was, I
promise you, a keen one.
Finding no pocket at his hips reminded him no doubt of his
woman’s dress, for his hand slipped down to the side of his skirt,
where it floundered about as helplessly as a fish out of water.
A woman’s pocket is, to the degenerate male mind, a fearful and
wonderful piece of mechanism. The intention of the designer was
apparently to offer special inducements to pickpockets, and so to
construct the opening that the contents should either fall out
altogether and be lost, or should be swallowed up by dark and
mysterious depths into which no male hand dare venture to
penetrate. The only way to get at anything which happens to be
wanted seems to be to haul the entire pocket to the surface, very
much as a fishing-net is hauled from the depths of the sea, and to
turn it inside out in search of the missing article.
On the occasion in question, Mullen was in too much of a hurry to
adopt this course, and, but for the seriousness of the situation, I
could have smiled, as I held him at arm’s length, to see him diving
and fumbling among those unplumbed depths. When at last he rose,
so to speak, gasping, to the surface, his hand was clutching a pistol-
barrel, but the butt had in some way caught the lining of the dress,
and in order to extricate it he had to turn the entire pocket inside out.
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