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Sustainable Practices to Supply Chain of Fashion Industry, USA An Individual

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Sustainable Practices to Supply Chain of
Fashion Industry, USA

Percy Cooper
MS19GL094
An Individual Global Immersion Project

Mentor
Ahammed Shamir

1
 Acknowledgement

I would like to express gratitude to everyone who has helped directly or indirectly to
complete my project.

I wish to express my deep sense of gratitude to my faculty mentor, Ahammed Shamir, for his
able guidance and useful suggestions which helped not only in completing the project on time
but also gave a better understanding of Global Logistics and Supply Chain Management. His
astute supervision and constructive criticism have always been a source of motivation to do
better and research deeper.

I would also like to thank Professor Aditya Narvekar for updates and giving good amount of
time to complete. I thank S.P. Jain Sydney team for the support and encouragement
influencing this report during time of this global crisis; COVID-19.

I want to express my heartfelt gratitude for the invaluable information provided by the
members of Dongre family, The House of Anita Dongre Fashion House.

I sincerely appreciate the time taken out by Sumeet Sharma of Sun Textile Engineers for the
valuable insight on manufacturing the machines required in the textile industry.

Additionally, I extend my appreciation to Prof. Peter Nagel and Prof. Firouzeh Taghikhah for
sharing their views and important industry insights relevant to the scope of this project.

Finally, yet importantly, I would like to express my heartfelt gratitude to my parents for their
blessings, the campus of S.P Jain Sydney for being so hospitable and my peers for helping
accomplish my goal and complete this project successfully.

Sincerely,
Percy Cooper.

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 Declaration

I student of SP Jain School of Global Management GLSCM batch of September 2019 hereby
declare that the matter included in this report titled:
Sustainable Practices to Supply Chain of Fashion Industry, USA
is the result of research undertaken by reading published journals & reports and qualitative in-
depth-interviews.

I further declare that this is my original work and hasn’t been published anywhere before this.
Moreover, this project has been carried out for the purpose of submission towards the partial
fulfillment of Masters in Global Business (MGB) in Global Logistics and Supply Chain
Management course.

The above is true to the best of my knowledge and Information.

Signed:
Percy Cooper (MS19GL094)

MGB Batch of September 2019

S.P Jain School of Global Management
5 Figtree Dr, Sydney Olympic Park.
Australia.
Sign of Project Mentor

3
 Executive Summary

Textile and textile recycling is a cultural, social and economic practise rather than a
depositary or energy use. With cities diverting other high-volume waste sources including
organics, the disposal of old clothes is the next step for communities trying to eliminate solid
waste. According to the Pulse report of 2017, 57 percent discarded clothing ends up in a
landfill while 25 percent of that is incinerated. of the balance 18 percent, 8% is reused an
10% is recycled. This report on the study of sustainable practices to the supply chain of the
fashion industry, USA will enable explore ways to reduce the percentage of clothes that end
up in landfills or incinerated. The biggest value of garment recycling is the ability to reuse
clothes. By reusing clothes and textiles, waste can be avoided and energy-intensive modern
clothing production can be avoided. In comparison, garments unfit for reuse can be reused in
items such as rags, recycled or reprocessed into fabrics or other materials. In the United
States every year over 15 million tonnes, and the quantity has doubled in the past 20 years, is
produced in the United States. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, over 16
million tonnes of textile waste were collected in 2014. Of this number, 2,62 million tonnes,
3,14 million tonnes, and 10,46 million tonnes have been recycled and combustion into the
ground. An average US customer throws around 80 livres per person per year of used clothes.
It costs cities $45 a tonne on average nationwide to dispose of old clothing. It will take
decades for cotton clothes to decompose. Global retail sales for clothing and accessories have
reached US$ 1.9 trillion in recent years, with a forecast growth to over US$ 3 trillion by
2030, and are predicted to grow. In the Asia Pacific and European regions, the fashion
industry continues to expand positively, especially on emerging markets. The Netherlands
buys the largest number of products per citizen in one year, led by the US. This report
consists of primary data in the form of in-depth telephonic interview with people of the
industry along various positions of the supply chain. Belief of this research has been to go to
the root of the problem and back to the supplier of the supplier and find the discrepancies in
supply chain and the points of extravagance or wastage which can be cut back. This research
further explores the upcoming integration of industry 4.0 with the fashion industry to evolve
into fashion 4.0. Technologies like digital-twin, smart forecasting, AI, have been explored in
this report. Industry trends post the COVID-19 pandemic have changed a lot of business
perceptions which have forced the industry to look beyond current labour markets. There is a
vision in motion for exploring new materials and ways to produce them. Making artificial
leather without an animal’s hide being involved or 3D Printing fabric could be one such
break. At the moment the fashion industry has realised its wasteful ways and have focused on
ways to reduce reuse and recycle but most important is that they have understood that the
transformation to fashion 4.0 will not be sustainable on its own but will enable sustainability
to a greater extent.

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 Table of Contents
Acknowledgement ............................................................................................................. 2
Declaration ....................................................................................................................... 3
Executive Summary .......................................................................................................... 4
CHAPTER I...................................................................................................................... 8
Introduction .......................................................................................................................................................... 8

CHAPTER II .................................................................................................................. 10
Research Methodology ....................................................................................................................................... 10

Data Source ......................................................................................................................................................... 10

Objectives of Study .............................................................................................................................................. 11

Need for Study..................................................................................................................................................... 11

Scope of Study ..................................................................................................................................................... 11

Literature Review ............................................................................................................ 13

Fashion Clothing Supply Chain Process ........................................................................................................... 13

Supply Chain Models in Garment Industry ....................................................................................................... 13

Retail Supply Chain Management & Rise of Fast Fashion ................................................................................. 14

Fast Fashion Model ............................................................................................................................................. 15

Luxury Market vs Mass-Market ......................................................................................................................... 15

Importance of Dream in Advertising: Luxury Versus Mass Market................................................................. 15

Time Efficient Supply Chain Model for an Apparel Company ............................................................................ 16

What is Sustainable Supply Chain Management ............................................................................................... 16

Measuring Sustainability in Fashion Supply Chain ............................................................................................ 17

Sustainability Issues in Fashion......................................................................................................................... 17

Fast Fashion, Sustainability, and the Ethical Appeal of Luxury Brands ............................................................. 17

Industry 4.0: A Solution towards Technology Challenges of Sustainable Business Performance ..................... 18

Social Sustainability in Apparel Supply Chains—The Role of the Sourcing Intermediary in a Developing
Country ................................................................................................................................................................ 18

Zero-Waste Fashion Design: A Study at The Intersection of Cloth, Fashion Design and Pattern Cutting .... 19

Textile Industry in United States of America ................................................................... 21

According to National Council of Textile Organization .................................................................................... 21

According to International Trade Administration ............................................................................................. 21

Industry supply chain facts according to National Council of Textile Organization ....................................... 21

The Fashion Industry Gets Smarter With AI ................................................................... 22

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AI helps market and sell trendy Goods............................................................................................................... 22

Wear, design and development improved with AI .............................................................................................. 22

The Measurable Impact of Digital Twin Technology ....................................................... 24

Optimizing Digital twin design for fashion function suitability ........................................................................ 24

Smart Forecasting ........................................................................................................... 25

Fuzzy Forecast Combiner ................................................................................................................................... 25

Observing Waste of Industry ........................................................................................... 26

Supply Chain Waste ............................................................................................................................................ 26

Consumer Use Waste .......................................................................................................................................... 26

Waste at End of Use Pie Chart and Explanation............................................................................................... 27

Current Industry Trends ................................................................................................. 29

On High Alert ..................................................................................................................................................... 29

Beyond China...................................................................................................................................................... 29

Next Gen Social .................................................................................................................................................. 29

In the Neighbourhood ........................................................................................................................................ 29

Sustainability First .............................................................................................................................................. 30

Materials Revolution........................................................................................................................................... 30

Inclusive Culture................................................................................................................................................. 30

Cross-Border Challengers .................................................................................................................................. 30

Unconventional Conventions ............................................................................................................................. 31

Digital Recalibration........................................................................................................................................... 31

Key trends in the apparel industry in 2020 ....................................................................... 32

Digitalisation's Position ...................................................................................................................................... 32

Sustainability's Growing Significance ............................................................................................................... 32

A Plus Size Trend Change .................................................................................................................................. 32

Continued Athleisure Development.................................................................................................................... 32

Best Practices in Sustainable Fashion Supply Chain ....................................................... 33

Best Practices in Raw Material .......................................................................................................................... 33

Best Practices in Conversion of Raw Material .................................................................................................. 33

Best Practices in Weaving & Finishing ............................................................................................................. 34

Best Practices in Dyeing Procedure ................................................................................................................... 34

Best Practices in Cost, cut & Sew ....................................................................................................................... 34

Innovation in Textile Industry ......................................................................................... 35

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Textiles Will Be Battery Enhanced .................................................................................................................... 35

Carbon Fibre-Reinforced Polymer (CFRP) In Construction & Automotive Sector......................................... 35

Bio-fabricated Leather ........................................................................................................................................ 36

High-grade Natural Leather Substitute ............................................................................................................. 36

The Post-Consumer Cotton Waste Jeans Levi Strauss & Co. and Evrnu ......................................................... 37

Primary Findings from In-Depth Telephonic Interview with ........................................... 38

Anita Dongre Fashion House ............................................................................................................................ 38

Sun Textile Engineer; Sumeet Sharma.............................................................................................................. 38

Summary of Findings...................................................................................................... 39
Conclusion ...................................................................................................................... 40
Recommendations ........................................................................................................... 40
Scope for Future Research .............................................................................................. 40
Limitation of Study ......................................................................................................... 41
Appendix I ...................................................................................................................... 42
Soft Flow Dyeing Machine ................................................................................................................................. 42

Air Flow Dyeing Machine .................................................................................................................................. 43

SUN Vibro Washing Range ................................................................................................................................ 43

Appendix II ..................................................................................................................... 44
Primary Research Questionnaire ....................................................................................................................... 44

Reference ........................................................................................................................ 45
Journals, Reports ................................................................................................................................................ 45

Websites ............................................................................................................................................................... 46

7
 CHAPTER I

Introduction

The supply chain of the fashion industry in USA, the world's third most populous country
with an estimated population of over 328 million according to World Bank population and
labour data.
According to the International Trade Administration:
U.S. business success will lead to global success. The United States is the most desirable
global consumer market, offering an unprecedented diversity, a vibrant culture of creativity
and the most successful workforce, with its annual BPF of $20 billions and a population of
over 325 million. Companies of all sizes – from start-ups to multinationals – can build and
expand innovations, capital and business.
The phrase "Fashion Industry" can remember Fashion Week pictures and photographic
images. In this age of global trade, though, high-mode runways are only one part of the larger
textiles and apparel market, spanning from high-end luxury brands to fast-mode
supermarkets–and the tens of thousands of firms that produce and sell shoes, clothes and
other accessories. We will be talking about how the fashion industry is wasteful when it
comes to consumption and how there is over consumption and destruction on goods when it
comes to the end of a season in fashion.
The United States Fashion Industry Association involves businesses throughout the value
chain to help eliminate obstacles to the fashion and apparel industry.
Some of the world's largest fashion companies live in the United States. Adidas is actually
the biggest apparel company in the world. Nike is a fitness and leisure company that has
annual revenue of $30.6 billion and a market value worth about $105 billion. Nike sells
goods all around the globe, with the United States responsible for 46 percent of total revenue
and the main customers in Western Europe (19 percent). The sales of Nike comes largely
from the brand of Adidas, around 94%. The other 6 percent are from Converse, a Nike brand.
Shoes constitute 64% of Nike's profits, which is Nike's biggest best-selling company. With
market values of US $54.5 billion with annual sales in 2015 of US $30.9 billion, TJX
Companies is the second-biggest fashion business in the U.S. TJX operates most of its shops
in the United States and is particularly prominent in the T.J fast-mode layout. Very
impressive. Sales of 86% in the US, totalling 26,7 billion dollars. The group also operates on
the US and EU markets with its T.K brands. Maxx, HomeSense champions and marshalls.
VF Group is America's third largest style group. VF has several labels including Lee, North
Face, Timberland & Napapijri. In 2015, VF's annual sales grew to USD 12.4 billion, mostly
from the Outdoors and Action Sports Business. Combined profits of $7.4 billion, which
contributed nearly 60 per cent of VF total revenues, were announced by the North Face, Vans
and Timberland brands. The VF company's current market value is 27.6 billion dollars. L
Brands comes similar to VF Group with a market value of 25,3 billion dollars. L Brands is a
Victoria secret parent with approximately $12.15 billion in domestic sales (roughly 93%).
The fifth-largest US fashion company is Under Armour sporting retailers. In 2015, the
brand's 20-year-old annual income of $4.0 billion was produced, with North America alone
earning $3.45 billion. Under Armor is currently worth 17.8 billion dollars at the New York
Stock Exchange.
The fashion industry has short product life cycles, a variety and volatile demand, as well as
long and rigid supply processes. Such characteristics, a dynamic supply chain and large data

8
access make the industry a perfect environment to effectively manage the Supply Chain.
Over the last 20 years also the sector has been under transition: substantial market
restructuring, the bulk of industrial operations that move overseas and, more recently,
increasing use of the online economy in retail and wholesale. The goal of this report is to
analyze the current situation and the recent trends throughout the US supply chain. By using
market-wide statistics, papers from company publications, business reports and detailed
interviews with apparel producers in the USA, we explain working processes and industry
consolidation during the transformation, with an emphasis on the supply chain development
and retail segments.

While the bulk of modes administrators are largely worried with what is going on in 2020,
the world's best players also have a chance to push the curve and succeed in the coming year.
The newly released 'Status of Fashion 2020' report by McKinsey & Company states that
while optimism is not at the peak of sentiments last year, daring luxury fashion companies
willing to move forward at an early age and increase productivity by all the possible means
will boost income. The McKinsey Global Fashion Index expects a 3-4 percent growth in the
apparel industry in 2020, marginally more than the 2019 projected 3.5 to 4.5 percent.
And in the case of "the big and the bold," the twenty leading actors in the apparel business
generate more of an economic benefit than the whole sector.

Seeing that resources are dwindling and that the effect of fibres like acrylic, polyester, nylon
and spandex on the environment and on the resource-intensive natural fibres such as cotton is
an opportunity for the textile and apparel industries to consider viable alternatives and
emphasize that the manufacture of textiles and apparel does not have to pollute the
environment.

9
 CHAPTER II

Research Methodology

In an age of realization and increasing value of resources of in every consumers’ mind, when
it comes to Fashion: Fast or Luxury, they fail to consider the environment. sellers now like to
share the same view of sustainability as this enables them to provide goods and services at
cheaper prices and also makes the organization increase profits, positive societal standpoint
& beneficial to the planet. The triple bottom line trend of People Profit Planet. This topic of
research was picked to learn about the supply chain function with application of sustainable
practices. The clothing industry supply chain was selected because fast fashion is a method to
understand the customer who keeps consuming. This industry has a lot of wastage and
recycling is being done but this is not enough as major proportion of the waste still goes in
the landfill. This report is attempting to study the supply chain of the fast fashion and luxury
fashion industry, and eliminate waste procedures and conserve resources wherever possible.
Secondary research will be conducted with data sourced from reviewing research papers,
journals, books, reports, and other published author’s articles. Industry experts who were
going to be interviewed had to be cancelled due to the COVID-19 Pandemic. This will not
compromise on the quality of the report as other reliable means of telephonic interviews.

Data Source

The Primary Data is collected through an interview with experts working at various
positions along the supply chain of the fashion apparel industry. Data collected is analysed on
the basis of the logistical drivers.

The Secondary Data is collected by researching a few articles available online and also from
other reliable sources such as blogs, books and research paper published.

Research Instrument
The questions for the interview are self- developed and is based on the objectives of the study
that is being conducted.

Target Audiences
The target audiences for this research are experts working at various positions along the
supply chain of the fashion apparel industry, fashion entrepreneur.

Size of Sample
The sample size for this research is limited to three people in the apparel industry. One of
them is the founder of House of Anita Dongre, an Indian fashion house.

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Mode of Interview
As the study is based on the global fashion apparel industry with a focus on USA, the reach is
difficult for a face to face interview or for a questionnaire and as such the interview was
conducted over the telephone.
The interview would be Qualitative one as it involves an in-depth interview.

Objectives of Study

• To observe the textile industry in United States of America.

• To understand the integration of Industry 4.0 in the Textile Industry Supply Chain and
Fast Fashion apparel brands.

• To observe current trends of the industry.

• To observe wastage in the supply chain of the fashion apparel industry.

• To research best practices considering the global supply chain of fashion apparel
industry.

• To explore sustainable activities in the supply chain of the fashion apparel industry
across continents.

Need for Study

This study would promote efficient procurement and allow supply chain managers to
automate their manufacturing processes. Influence of shortages and price rises on
development factors or bans which could be made possible if environmental consciousness
grows and social media catches the interest of people unless previously forecast and checked.
Identify and that the increased amount of waste produced both in products and services
manufacture and consumption. This will enable make their supply chain more sustainable and
reduce the percentage of wasted clothes ending up in landfills or incinerated.

Scope of Study

The scope of this study is to acknowledge the stakeholders in each operation of the supply
chain and eliminate the polluting, resource intensive nature of the industry and devise
sustainable means. Find new technologies that complement the ushering in of Fashion 4.0
into the 21st century. Methods for reduction in cost & consumption for producing the apparel
from start of the supply chain to the end user or consumer. After accumulating relevant data

11
and demographics suitable to the industry since the research is focused on applying
sustainable practices to the supply chain of fashion industry, where the focus is on the fashion
apparel industry in America. Here an awareness of the variety of raw material, equipment,
production & logistical methods that are sustainable and won’t end resources as rapidly as the
industry is consuming them now. Here the scope is to also develop strategies that make
purchasing fashion apparel produced as an outcome of sustainable production methods.
Sustainability and lean are quite similar and both display results in form of reduced
overheads. A comprehensive approach for cost management by reducing duplication and
non-value adding operations while achieving on schedule what the company needs. There
was a misunderstanding. Excellence services focused on waste management from the systems
for a long time. To explore and evaluate previous work focusing on Lean and sustainable
manufacturing links and relationships. Mainly from the atmosphere and from an economical
viewpoint, Lean was seen to be of value to sustainable manufacturing. The paper identifies
important work holes for distributed, efficient development to enhance the sector and
simulation of success as a computational methodology.

Source: Enam, J. (2017, February 1). Supply Chain Management in Apparel Industry. Retrieved from
https://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2017/02/supply-chain-management-apparel-industry.html

12
 Literature Review

Fashion Clothing Supply Chain Process

Part of the supply chain should do better to make the entire garment industry sustainable from
the fashion spinner who produces cotton to the factories who weave into fabric and paint it in
various colours to the finishing labels that produce and label them for retailers and finally to
the customer who uses and disposes of them. The effect of production of synthetic fabrics can
be noted evidently as its responsible for marine pollution due to its micro-plastic biproduct.
This water is then treated and sent for society’s consumption which causes problems.
Moreover, traditional washing & dyeing methods consume excessive water and energy.
According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, 85 percent of post-consumer textile
waste ends up in landfill. There are plenty of practices to explore and the one that is more
beneficial to the supply chain economically and environmentally shall be adopted.

Supply Chain Models in Garment Industry

The traditional types of supply chains in the textile sector have two parallels and variations.
Leaders in textile supply chains are mostly businesses that produce, manufacture and deliver
goods, but have no sewing factories themselves. The big textile firms in Poland such as LPP
S.A. Therefore. Development outsource primarily in low cost countries. But there is a
propensity to increase pro-duction locally and regionally because of the need to increase the
response to style changes. For countries with low manufacturing costs to Poland the
proportion of air transports from producers is growing. Normal items are produced in the
supply chains of the leading textile firms. The movement of material between the fabricators
and the Logistics Centre is push able. There is a propensity to adjust the movement between
the Logistics Centre and the shops from push to pull, though. It is gradually tailored by
businesses on demand. A decline in stocks in shops is a beneficial feature of such a product
transition of demand. This, though, ensures the supplies at the Logistics Centre are expanded.
This model is beneficial because of low cost of output, primarily due to the small labour
prices in countries–and thus the opportunity to invest in price–and a well-developed logistics
network, which improves the market supply of products. A long response period for
consumer demands but also an understanding of rising costs of shipping, volatility in
exchange rates and higher manufacturing costs for countries of Southeast Asia are a
drawback. Many garment supply chains are independent businesses with their own sewing
factories that manufacture and distribute items, such as Macaroni Tomato. Such small-scale
companies will focus on the particular person, produce and distribute personalised garments
precisely as per the request of the consumer. Since such goods are fairly expensive and
consumers pay about good quality, local or national manufacturing is outsourced.
Individualizing the supply chain makes it more effective for the customer.

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Retail Supply Chain Management & Rise of Fast Fashion

Fast fashion has become a controversial topic after the significant amount of excessive waste
produced by it. However, the retail supply chain for fast fashion has its own admirers as this
is a fast-changing line of business so to be able to forecast demands in this fast fashion era is
a marvel. Although the business concept is too early and out of date for traditional retail
retailers, on-demand apparel has been created with cheaper, easier-to-buy products that are
quicker and incorporate technology into your shopping, meaning that shoppers can find best
prices from online sales. Let us not ignore smaller retail businesses, who have a digital
background in selling e-commercial approaches, to deliver their goods to their customers and
build deep loyalty to their marks. while the small brands are getting recognition by good
online experience and customer service provided, bigger brands such as Zara, H&M, Under
Armour are tapping both markets which is online and brick and mortar store.

Source: Euromonitor

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Fast Fashion Model

Throughout the 1980s the prices for vast volumes of merchandise and confusion grew as
apparel designers started to expand the variety of designs, colours and sizes of their
collections (Doeringer and crean 2006). To simplify it, the idea of "lean supermarkets,"
which used stock control and demand forecasting, was adopted by just-in-time systems
(Dessai et coll. 2012). In other terms, fashion companies started focusing more on trends and
speed by launching the first definitions of' fast mode.' Joy (2012) described quick mode as'
low-cost wear compilation that imitates current trends of luxury style. Annamma Joy
describes easy mode as a rapid response device that supports disposability. Speedy
prototyping, large varied small lots, effective logistics, and' floor ready ' products are some of
the characteristics that Skov (2002) defines as fast-mode strategies. In order to allow
businesses to manufacture their products in developing countries with low cost labour and
less controls, the implementation of offshoring play an important role within the fast evolving
trend. Desai et al. (2012) describes successful fast-move enterprises use offshoring when
improving vertical supply chain alignment to ensure consistency and efficiency in order and
demand between suppliers. The following helps you better understand the phases in the
design distribution chain. A simple functional style supply chain is provided.

Luxury Market vs Mass-Market

In the 1900s, the industry had two distinguishing markets: a premium market for high-end
quality goods and a retail market of low-end, but more affordable goods. Anguelov (2016)
examined these markets and found products clearly distinguishable on these markets by size,
brand and quality. Now a days this distinction is less noticeable as products sold on the mass
market appear more than items sold in fashion and design on the luxury market. The
diminishing life span of trends plays a major role for Nikolay Anguelov (2016) in decreasing
the difference between luxurial and mass market products. Trends arrive easily and take
fewer temps to hit the customers of the mass-market in a post-modern world connected by the
internet. The number of seasons in the design industry follows also shows this. About eight
typical cycles have been established by the fashion industry (Birnbaum, 2005). Martin
Christopher (2004) claims that prolific apparel firms such as Zara today will introduce more
than 20 seasons a year. The Internet and the technologies making more space for seasons and
patterns dramatically expand the need for fast lead times as customers give preference to
patterns over price. In this fast-paced setting, hand-driven cloths or sturdy clothes have been
pushed as the cornerstone of dressing (Rosenthal 2007).

Importance of Dream in Advertising: Luxury Versus Mass Market

Today competition is strong, and discriminating is becoming more and more important to win
the tastes of customers. Large-scale exposure to information has not only educated customers
well but is also willing to affirm their uniqueness in conjunction with companies. This
propensity is illustrated by the willingness of customers to put their interpretations on
marketing messages as a means of feeling involved in the whole contact cycle. Luxury
companies typically obey managers who vary from those of mass market companies and in
particular are focused on competing strategies. In written ads, for example, luxury firms
utilise illustration instead of text as a medium to help consumers relay the message to

15
themselves and to satisfy their wish to imagine. The reflection from this paper to take away is
Secondly, the preferences of customers in all markets have evolved to such an degree that
they already choose to take a strongly involved role in their partnerships with businesses,
which requires allowing them the opportunity to create their own ideas and desires. Secondly,
mass market businesses will realise the process by which the luxury contact paradigm will
profoundly engage buyers and enable dreams to satisfy consumers ' wishes. Thirdly: the
usage of less texts in advertising and more photos by mainstream consumer marketers would
be more descriptive and aspirational.

Time Efficient Supply Chain Model for an Apparel Company

This research has established a modern supply chain model to enable apparel retailers to be as
effective as possible in time. Since of the seasonality of the sector this is an essential issue for
businesses in the textile industry. Therefore, these companies are extremely competitive and
have to respond extremely rapidly to design and fashion shifts in order to gain profitability.
Competition has intensified in most industries today, not just between particular firms, but
also between networks of linked suppliers, known as supply chains. Consumer expectations
are evolving more regularly and companies will respond more quickly as emerging patterns
and market demands arise. In the fashion industry, this is particularly valid since time is a key
factor and may differentiate between a company's success or its loss. This study deals with
the creation of a model supply chains for a apparel company based on fast lead times around
the whole supply chain. The basis for this paradigm is the theoretical and temporal
frameworks from the literature on the one hand, and the popular luxury chain Zara's situation
on the other. In addition, before and after the model was developed, the writers of this
dissertation interviewed many managers of the store. The last segment introduces and
reviews an overview of interviews that take place after the model has been developed. The
updated paradigm will provide multinational garment suppliers with suggestions for
developing sections or the whole supply chain.

What is Sustainable Supply Chain Management

Supply chain management is an integral aspect of the sustainability system of a business.

When all businesses shift towards a more prosperous world, it is increasingly important to
learn the natural, social and economic implications and feasibility of the suppliers and
consumers. It is doubtful that political demands would push this transition but you do see
market competition from manufacturers and sellers. Organizations aim to function more
sustainably. There is nothing to doubt that the path to the future is renewable and ecologically
sound. So, in order to address the demand for the future, businesses are producing their goods
or offering infrastructure in a manner that will not harm the atmosphere, does not deplete
renewable capital, does not lead to climate change, does not add to socioeconomic inequality
or injustices. Some of the ways a corporation achieves so is by the whole cycle of processing,
through which raw materials come through use and, finally, through removal or recycling that
product or service during the whole development phase throughout the factory. Not just
cultural influences, but also social and economic influences. Clearly, the corporation does not
operate a profitable business anywhere it is based because the raw materials of the product
are derived from child labour, and industry with that supplier retains them.

16
Measuring Sustainability in Fashion Supply Chain

It is reported that the apparel industry accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions.
Everybody recognises that this is inacceptable, however in struggling to cope with the
challenges of recycling several apparel companies hit barriers. Addressing structural and
decades of business challenges is daunting, but if tackled with the correct mentality, such
barriers may be opportunities. To reach a higher goal than merely profiting, to combat the
cereals, and to evaluate productivity and incentives for growth by data-driven technical
innovations and resources would be necessary to shift our commodity quality and usage and
to minimise the carbon footprint in the fashion industry. As in the case with Naadam, where
their entire business model is based on cashmere knitwear and their acquisition and
production follows a sustainable method that only benefits its’ contributors and people in
direct relation to it by looking after the families who raise the goats in the village of
Mongolia and also looking after the goats’ veterinary requirements. The guys behind
Outerknown had biodiversity and society related sustainability thoughts. We operate for
Econyl, a 100% regenerated nylon fibre made of regenerated fishing nets and other nylon
waste, along with PFOA-free DWR. The guiding light of Outerknown is the Code of Ethics,
which specifies their responsibility to mitigate, track and their environmental and societal
impacts. This code of behaviour helps Outerk to improve systemically the job and
environmental policies of countries. It is understood that sustainability starts at their business
but if not extended to their suppliers and other business partners then the business isn’t
having a sustainable supply chain which doesn’t really make the business sustainable. The
business decision should be sustainable and ethical. It takes thinking and effort and funds at
start to make the transition but in the long term it works out better for the environment as
well as the business.

Sustainability Issues in Fashion

As the retail industry begins to take over exponentially, many people have researched the
adverse environmental and social consequences of manufacturing with such limited lead
times and relatively cheap products and processes. "And the planet produces about 80 billion
new clothing items per year according to True Size (2015), the size of the global apparel
industry. That's over 400% of the output just two decades ago. James Conca's report for
Forbes reported that the apparel sector already represents 10 per cent of the global production
of carbon in 2015. The sector is the second largest industrial polluter. Such figures indicate
that the vast-scale production of clothing is increasingly increasing and leads to the increased
emissions and waste produced by the industry. Along with this even the logistics has to be
considered and the amount of fuel put to use for this makes the pollution rise per trip.

Fast Fashion, Sustainability, and the Ethical Appeal of Luxury Brands

After exploring consumer perceptions from two sides of the world, Hong Kong and Canada
we understood that people don’t care much about sustainability when it comes to fast fashion
and luxury fashion. It’s ironic because in the twenty first century sustainability and Corporate
Social Responsibility are hand in hand primary. An organic make of fabric may be good for
wearing around but not for making a stylish impression because when it comes to luxury,

17
impression is in the plush extravagance of the whole idea that makes it desirable. Fast fashion
is a cheap alternative of luxury fashion that capture’s the eye of the middle incomed
consumer with the same immersive designs concepts as of the luxury brand in an altered
replicated version.

Industry 4.0: A Solution towards Technology Challenges of Sustainable Business

Performance

Adoption of technology has always been a tough challenge for SMEs because of a shortage
of funding and other problems on the market. The competitive market success of SMEs has a
negative effect on many technical challenges. However, it is possible to solve complex
technological challenges by implementing Industry 4.0. Industry 4.0's goal is to achieve both
improved operational performance and profitability and higher automation levels. This study
therefore seeks to define the role of Industry 4.0 for fostering sustainable business success in
Thailand's small and medium-sized enterprises. A survey was designed with the aid of Partial
Least Square to gather data from managers of SMEs. In order to gather data, the
questionnaire was used and questionnaires were spread by simple random sampling. The
administrative workers of SMEs based in Thailand issued a total of 500 questionnaires. 280
have been returned and 270 correct responses were sought out of this distributed
questionnaire. Data were analysed using Structural Equation Analysis (SEM) for Partial
Least Square (PLS). The findings show that Industry 4.0 is essential to the sustainable market
growth of small and medium-sized enterprises. In the advancement of information
technology (IT), which contribute to sustainable success of market, Industry 4.0 components
such as the big data, the Internet of Things and the Smart Factory play a positive role. The
positive partnership between Industry 4.0 and IT adoption has also been improving
operational framework and operation. SMEs are the pillar of the economy in many countries
because this sector has a generous contribution to the economy through GDP (Gross
Domestiic Productt)) creatiion (Etuk et al.. 2014;; Ilegbinosa and Jumbo 2015; Lloyd 2002).
Due to the nature of small-scale businesses, SMEs have various issues.
Oneamongthemisattechnollogiicalliissue((AcsandPrrestton1997;;Dobrroviičcˇettall..2018)).

Social Sustainability in Apparel Supply Chains—The Role of the Sourcing

Intermediary in a Developing Country

The role of the intermediary is explored in detail from the point of view of all the contributors
to the supply chain of the industry. The Apparel consumers of this generation expect a new
style to be available on a constant and quick basis. Based on findings and studies, ten
proposals were produced which focus specifically on the position of the clothing broker as a
facilitator for social justice in clothing supply chains. They involve the planner and organiser
of social sustainability, the social sustainability porter and guarantor and the cultural broker
for social sustainability and the manager of social risk. Ironically, a third-party indirect
supply broker not only brings value to boost clothes retailers' costs, efficiency and lead times,
but also serves as social responsibility consultant, a novel approach to debate. Due to this
pressure of expectations on the apparel makers thy face constant pressure of cost and
sustainability. To meet this growing demand, they started outsourcing their manufacturing

18
process to the developing countries. Here the labour is cheap comparatively and even skilled
enough to provide a quality finish.

Zero-Waste Fashion Design: A Study at The Intersection of Cloth, Fashion

Design and Pattern Cutting

This thesis examines zero-waste fashion design: design activity that results in zero-waste
garments. Conventional design approaches waste approximately 15 per cent of the fabric
used in the design and make of a cut and sew garment. (Rissanen, T. I. (2013). Zero-waste
fashion design: a study at the intersection of cloth, fashion design and pattern cutting
(Doctoral dissertation)). The processing is responsible for this loss, constrained by the
template and pattern cut already conceived. The economic mechanisms that help mode design
and development have no economic opportunity to fix this waste. An analysis of
environmental and social investments in textiles alongside their impact on the environment
reveals that these investments are being invested on unsustainable environmental.
The backdrop to this analysis is contemporary fashion design in the ready-to-wear way: the
creation of apparel leading to several styles. This research explores different fashion
production approaches in the conceptual analysis. The context for design practise in this
analysis along with an overview of traditional and contemporary zero wastes and waste goods
provide for the production methods and partnerships between fashion design and pattern
cutting for current industry. Contextual analysis results include a variety of concept project
briefs. This study asks: How do you create zero waste garments using cutting and stitching
methods in contemporary menswear fashion? The key research instrument of this analysis is
apparel modelling practise. Project procedures and findings are published in a journal and the
articles are transcribed and analysed. The data show positive approaches for zero-waste
apparel production. Pattern cutting is an integral part of the design of zero wastes fashion. In
conjunction with the textile industry, zero-waste textile design is explored by developing
different styles for zero-waste fashion design in specific problems, such as fabric as cloth and
the designation of clothing designs to acquire sizes of garments. The research also challenges
the degree to which a non-disposable solution within the current fashion industry is viable
and needed. The research reveals that zero-waste apparel design creates new opportunities for
fashion design that do not exist at present.
This thesis includes mode creation to take model cutting into account an important part of the
mode design process. Having a fashion design approach offers the business and the design
education fresh possibilities. Wear style of no excess is part of a larger image of elegance,
which fashion may be the root of.

19
Source: Industry 4.0 From the Management Information Systems Perspectives

20
Textile Industry in United States of America

According to National Council of Textile Organization

U. S. textiles, their domestic suppliers and customers include producers of yarn and textiles,
suppliers of cotton, wool and man-made fabric, machinery and garment producers and
customers of the American clothing industry.

The US textile industry, manufacturers and consumers are an important part of the U.S.
economy in all regions of the world. The industry provides much-needed jobs in rural areas
and has acted as a springboard for disadvantaged people to work well for decades.The
industry is also a significant contributor to American national defence, supplying men and
women in uniform with over 8,000 items a year.

High-tech innovation plays a key role in the industry. For everything from cardiac valves and
stents to aviation systems and sophisticated body armour, textile products are now key
elements.

According to International Trade Administration

U.S. business success will lead to global success. The United States is the most desirable
global consumer market, offering an unprecedented diversity, a vibrant culture of creativity
and the most successful workforce, with its annual BPF of $20 billions and a population of
over 325 million. Companies of all sizes – from start-ups to multinationals – can build and
expand innovations, capital and business.

Industry supply chain facts according to National Council of Textile

Organization

In 2018, exports of textiles and apparel totalled $76.8 billion.

The US industry is the world's second largest clothing exporter. In 2018 the combined
exports of yarn, textiles and garments amounted to $30.1 billion.

More than 8,000 different textile items are supplied to US forces by the United States textile
industry.

21
The Fashion Industry Gets Smarter With AI

While the fashion industry is developed, AI is radically transforming the industry from the
manufacture of its goods to the way it is advertised and marketed. In any aspect of the value
chain, such as architecture, engineering, logistics, marketing and distribution, AI technologies
transform the fashion industry.

AI helps market and sell trendy Goods

The fashion industry has the same as the development of luxury items to build competition
and brand recognition. The retail and apparel companies actively try new ways of putting
their goods to customers and building consumer recognition and demand. Digital companies
continually use AI and machine learning in order to optimise the customer experience for
their customers, to boost distribution network performance through smart automation, and to
enhance selling processes by modelling research and directed distribution processes. Design
brands also begin using chatbots and voice assistance apps including Amazon Alexa, Apple
Siri, Google Home and Microsoft Cortana to manage conversational assistants. By presenting
consumers with inquiries, knowing consumer desires and preferences, digging into their
purchasing habits and recommending related items and adds, apparel companies may collect
data using conversational interfaces. When a customer needs new sneakers or clothes, for
example, they should easily speak to an intelligent conversational agent in lieu of engaging
with a website or smartphone device. The consumer will choose the right apparel product or
accessories product through the back and forth dialogue. This interaction provides the
customer with much more satisfaction and information for the fashion brand. AI is finding its
way into eCommerce and smartphone phones, beyond conversational frameworks. Customers
are now able to take photos of their favourite clothes or styles that they want to imitate and
intelligent picture identification systems can comply with real-life products for sale.
However, AI-activated retail apps help shoppers to take online snapshots of garments,
identify clothes and accessories from the retail image and locate an similar towel and search
for the same design.

Wear, design and development improved with AI

In the "Minimalism" documentary they tell us that clothes can have up to 52 seasons. With
the constantly evolving styles and crafts, retailers have to keep up with the new trends
regularly and anticipate customer tastes in the next season. Historically, retailers are based on
data from the prior year on their estimate of current year sales. However, that is not always
accurate because many factors, such as changing trends, can influence sales. However,
market estimation strategies based on AI will reduce the prediction error by as much as 50%.
AI technology can also play a part in garment manufacturing until the clothes are made. Type
manufacturers innovate the use of AI to improve production performance and to increase
workers with respect to human textiles. AI systems are used to detect fabric defects and to
ensure that finished textile colours match the originally designed colours. AI technology such

22
as computer vision systems make for more robust quality assurance processes. While once
the only use of machine learning algorithms for sales trends was that only ecommerce giants
such as Amazon and Walmart used, small retailers are now using machine learning to get to
know this dynamic mode market, which may be a better chance to succeed. Smart, AI-
compatible systems also help fashion brands gain more knowledge through patterns and
predictive analyses which can provide an insight into trends of wear, patterns of buying and
product guidance. Stitch Fix, an online personal styling service is one of the leading
innovators with AI applied to mode. The business uses machine learning algorithms to
provide consumers with improved customer service and secure supply chain. Machine
learning techniques are being used to improve logistics and to maximise the productivity of
the supply chain. AI is used to control and automate supply chains, reducing storage and
delivery costs. The algorithms of machine-learning are used to predict stock demand more
accurately and therefore to reduce waste or eliminate purchases in the last minute to meet
unexpected demand spikes. The machine learning computer vision is also used to detect
apparel fraud and counterfeit goods. Previously, spotting bogus customs or other compliance
officers had to have a professional hand. Now, AI systems will keep an eye on bogus goods
that look more and more like the actual ones. In this region, customs and border enforcement
apply AI technologies to the degree that high-end items, such as bags and sunglasses, are
often counterfeited. In all aspects of the trend system, from the design process, the processes
of development to distribution and promotion of finished products, we are now seeing AI
innovations can bring value. Smart is certainly the future of beauty.

23
 The Measurable Impact of Digital Twin
Technology

The idea and technologies for digital partners are relatively new to the world but it has
already had a substantial effect in support of businesses in their production processes to
encourage innovation, quality and productivity. In particular in the textile industry, use of
digital Twin systems would be very prevalent. With regard to some of the advantages of
digital twin technology, textile quality, production and manufacturing can have enormous
potentials. The digital twin technology will help farmers to use data that are being generated
with a view to predicting the best harvesting times by 'twinning' wool harvesting farms,
monitoring weather conditions and simulating future events that might precisely predict a
farm's production per month. This helps farmers to achieve the optimum quality of wool,
with a direct positive impact on the quality of their textiles and towels. Twinning animals
(e.g., sheep generating wool) themselves will produce the same simulation. In order to move
into the production level, the consistency of the yarn (a silk thread) has to conform with
stringent quality requirements. Owing to loss or poor quality a significant volume of wool or
cotton obtained for yarn processing is discarded. We could effectively create digital replicas
of the livestock itself by using digital twin technologies. This allows us to predict the times of
the year, the environment, diseases and other aspects influencing the consistency of the drug.
After collecting the data, farmers can start remediating the situation by modifying the
farming environment, enhancing the well-being of livestock and doing what they can to
reduce the quantity of low-calorie content provided by livestock.

Optimizing Digital twin design for fashion function suitability

Some of the most significant factors deciding the efficiency and number of products
produced by a textile factory last year is plant quality. For example, farmers must determine
the best time of the year to harvested to preserve the quality and thickness of the cotton in
order to collect cotton. It can be very difficult to predict and if there is a major plant disease
or virus that deteriorates the fabric, there is a very small amount of cotton available and the
quality of the fibre itself is low. Digital twin models will quickly eliminate stuff like viruses
and diseases. By simulating and constantly tracking each plant on the field, cotton growers
will predict the future and how the plants will behave under different weather conditions with
data.
Through using digital twin technologies effectively, our factory performance and productivity
will be able to accelerate by efficiently tracking the health of crops and animals, simulating
the future to prevent problems and gathering important, in real time data to keep us updated
on the farm growth.

24
 Smart Forecasting

Over the course of the years, the fashion industry has undergone major changes. The
mobilisation of customers is a well-known phenomenon in the market of product growth, but,
since buyers have little awareness of the concept, it is technological to achieve. They cannot
be made with textile fabrics and may not be practical in their chosen designs. This chapter
suggests an artificial intelligence modelling framework, which uses evolutionary computation
and fuse set theory. The programme carries out custom projects from design to design.
Customers are active in the design process as co-designers and computer automation
simplifies the design process. The development and evaluation of a test device was
completed. There is talk of the gains and future jobs. For decades, demand estimates in the
fashion industry have been a very difficult problem. The idea of fast-mode has recently
become a popular retail technique. This idea requires innovative approaches to approaching
particular aspects including the small number of historical evidence and a brief period for
estimation in terms of revenue forecasting. The literature analysis of current approaches in
this area indicates that various models were proposed. This is largely based on principles of
artificial intelligence. These approaches include the creation of a two-stage revenue
forecasting method using two equations that act as benchmarks for long-term and short-term
estimates. In fact, we plan to test our 2-story forecasting programme with actual data in order
to determine the practical benefits of sophisticated forecasting methods for fast-mode
retailing. For the shop refreshing concept focused on a process introduced by a popular fast-
mode company. Fast fashion brands are investing in smart forecasting techniques which
enables them to predict the demand of which shapes, colours, sizes will be picked next season
by customers buying online. Fashion trends forecasting is a big business. Companies like
WGSN have professional analysts who scan for patterns and colour variations, watch fashion
shows and arrange all of their knowledge according to trends in forecasting. It is helpful to
gather a huge amount of data, but it can be difficult to pick the exact data to make a
prediction.

Fuzzy Forecast Combiner

To produce weekly demand projection for a fast fashion clothing company, a combiner
method is developed. By combining predictions of three different methods with fluctuating
logic, the combiner generates projections. The weights of the variations are adaptable in the
way that the weights of the best methods are raised with time. A relatively new approach is
one of three methods based on the product lifecycle. The approach will represent the product
seasonal demand and require specialist expertise to be assisted. This approach is found to be
very effective in the forecasts.

25
Observing Waste of Industry

Waste happens throughout the whole life cycle of a garment. Efficient handling of waste
provides substantial cost savings and environmental benefits. The concept of zero-waste is a
safe way to manufacture goods. Although the effect of such a concept can be sustainability,
null-waste concept may also be an incredibly innovative pattern undertaking by integrating
the positions of manufacturer and model in a hybrid approach to fabric production, taking
aesthetics and purpose into account concurrently. (Carrico, M., & Kim, V. (2014). Expanding
zero-waste design practices: a discussion paper. International Journal of Fashion Design,
Technology and Education, 7(1), 58-64.) The core of fashion is waste. It happens in the
supply chain, all the way to the disposal of customers. The key element of 'being in or of
fashion is to highlight this physical journey of waste – it is to include the idea that a garment
can still be discarded irrespective of whether it is still useful functionally. It is perhaps
surprising, in view of this, that, according to recent research, the concept of waste is given
relatively little attention in the industry. The Pulse of the Fashion Industry Report of 2017
predicts that if existing technology is properly applied to address the waste crisis the sector
will save €4 billion a year by 2030. The future savings would be even greater if the market
size of the emerging recycling products is realised.

Supply Chain Waste

On average, 35% of all materials in the supply chain end up as waste before a garment or
product reaches the consumer. (Pulse Report 2017. (n.d.)). It may be waste cutting, unusable
stocks due to changes in design in the last-minute cycle, transport spoilage, or surplus stocks
not sold and often incinerated by marking on the retail market. This is impossible to avoid
any of this pollution. If the garment is not designed to be "zero waste," it will always generate
waste by cutting the garment from the fabric. Researchers claim that surplus content can only
be limited to about 10% of the materials used, even with concerted effort. (Reverse Resources
(undated) How Much Does the Garment Industry Actually Waste. (n.d.).) The larger the
manufacturing cycle and the bigger the fabric, the more likely it is to produce excess waste.
It's not just off-cut clothing. The intermediate production stages generate significant
quantities of water waste and "waste" in air emissions. For starters, the Pulse study reports
that the fashion industry uses a supply chain of 79 billion cubic metres of water per year,
most of them as untreated waste water. It's not just off-cut clothing. The intermediate
production stages generate significant quantities of water waste and "waste" in air emissions.
For starters, the Pulse study reports that the fashion industry uses a supply chain of 79 billion
cubic metres of water per year, most of them as untreated waste water. (Pulse Report 2017.
(n.d.)).

Consumer Use Waste

Whenever a garment is washed every day, it releases thousands of small fibres which reach
the oceans via wastewater. While scientists have noticed a great deal of pollution from
microfibers or microplastics, this only attracts greater public attention. Research reveals that

26
synthetic apparel such as polyester, polyethylene, acrylic and elastane is chiefly responsible
of this contamination. Washing synthetic textiles is expected to release around 35% of the
microplastics that collect in aquatic environments all over the world (plastic particles smaller
than 1 mm in diameter). (Boucher, J., & Friot, D. (2017). Primary microplastics in the
oceans: a global evaluation of sources (pp. 2017-002). Gland, Switzerland: IUCN.)
Experiments using domestic washing machines demonstrated that a single garment can
produce more than 1,900 fibres per wash – although fibre shed varies with the type of fabric,
whether it is a blended fibre, and the use of different garment construction techniques. The
rate of shedding also appears to differ with clothing age (1.8 times higher for older garments)
and washing machine type (5.3 times more shedding from a top-loading machine) (Hartline,
N. L., Bruce, N. J., Karba, S. N., Ruff, E. O., Sonar, S. U., & Holden, P. A. (2016).
Microfiber masses recovered from conventional machine washing of new or aged
garments. Environmental science & technology, 50(21), 11532-11538.) A study for Patagonia
estimated that up to 110 kg of microfibers would be released every day into local waterways
for every 100,000 people, corresponding to the environmental pollution caused by some
15,000 plastic bags. (Ibid. (n.d.).)

Waste at End of Use Pie Chart and Explanation

The average customer buys 60% more goods than in 2000, but each item is kept for half as
long as customers throw out goods quicker. These purchasing habits contribute to the
worldwide production of 39 million tonnes of post-consumer textile waste – mostly in the
form of garments-at least every year. (Wier, M., Birr-Pedersen, K., Jacobsen, H. K., & Klok,
J. (2005). Are CO2 taxes regressive? Evidence from the Danish experience. Ecological
economics, 52(2), 239-251.) What's going on with the clothes discarded? The waste
management process takes four fifths and recycling and storage sources takes one fifth.

27
Currently 70 percent of the vast majority of the waste disposal clothes go to landfill sites and
30 percent are incinerated. Of the fifth to be recycled: nearly half is recycled; 40% is re-used
as second-hand clothing; and the remaining 10% ultimately end up on waste stream. This
difference is mirrored in the broader image of all discarded robes. Only 10% in all are
recycled, only 8% are reused as secondary robes – but 57% are sent to the waste management
plant. (Haddad, M., & Otayek, R. (2018, July). Addressing the challenge of lean
manufacturing sustainment with system dynamics modeling: a case study on apparel
manufacturing in a developing country. In International Conference on Industrial
Engineering and Operations Management (pp. 26-27).)

28
 Current Industry Trends
According to McKinsey The State of Fashion 2020 Report

On High Alert

Unfortunately, managers of fashion sound more negative than ever before with the danger of
global uncertainty and stagnation nearby. Global problems have an immediate influence on
the international economy, which causes business executives to show vigilance and focus on
threats such as trade disputes and monetary policy. 55% of those polled anticipate market
conditions to intensify in the coming year.
Fashion companies are urged to increase profitability by increasing organisational efficiency,
digitalize, divest in non-core assets and actively track the global partnership in order to
maintain incompetence against such various risks.

Beyond China

Whereas China is still a promising place for rapid growth and prospects, managers will be
extending into other high-potential countries in 2020 to reduce their overall dependency on
Asia. While powerhouses such as LVMH, Kering, Lululemon and Nike have had continued
success in China, other big foreign brands such as Asos, New Look, and Dolce & Gabbana
have faced more difficulty successfully adjusting to the Chinese market.
Consumers aged 30 or younger are projected to rise in more than double the population in
five markets outside China (UAE, Saudi Arabia, Russia, Brazil and Southeast Asia) by 2025.

Next Gen Social

Not all social media channels are similarly developed, and fashion companies will have to be
more vigilant than ever to develop care-giving resources that work well on the right channels
in the coming year. Douzens of online outlets include hundreds, if not billions, of people. The
study says that 2020 will be the year for marketers to replenish their social media strategies
by leveraging existing channels more efficiently and capitalising on emerging channels.
About two-thirds of fashion players agree that "increased research into social media channels
and 'ordinary' networks' will be an important issue in the coming year.

In the Neighbourhood

In 2020, priority will be given to customer comfort and proximity. High-end consumers
would not want to drive to their local city or shopping centre for 45 minutes in their car. In
order to maximise on-demand shopping on-site, it will be combined next year with existing
brick and mortar shops in smaller size locations. Though e-commerce has been underway in
recent years, more than 70% of shopping is still made offline in the fashion segment.
More than half of fashion managers agree that the focus in the coming year is "localised
bricks and morter encounters."

29
Sustainability First

While some of the leading luxury brands have made no effort, furniture still has a long way
to go until it is deemed environmentally friendly. Mode leaders would need to take concrete
steps, instead of small actions, that are an advertisement medium, from energy use, emissions
and waste. The appetite for reform is fuelled by young people, who collectively want to pay
more for goods with the least environmental impact.
Survey respondents said "sustainability" is the biggest obstacle and the industry's single
biggest opportunity in 2020.

Materials Revolution

Fashion companies also focus on exploring alternatives to the present standard, and often
harmful materials along the same lines of sustainability. Luxury products with a emphasis on
textile engineering and working are predicted to prosper next year with fibre processing and
fabrics specialists booming in recent years. New Harmony, VF Company and 3 M lead the
way already by experimenting with innovative leather goods such as Piñatex made of
pineapple leaf fibres.
67% of fashion industry leaders feel it is essential to their business to use creative and
renewable materials.

Inclusive Culture

In the fashion industry, the lack of diversity and cookie-cutter design structure is rapidly
disapproved. Consumers want to ensure their businesses promote sustainability and equality
principles. The commitment of organisations to multicultural culture is considered to be a top
priority. However, despite that big companies tend to change their market models, consumers
are more cynical than ever about the effectiveness of these initiatives. About two-thirds of
consumers are suggesting that a brand is based on a social issue that they want, turn, stop or
boycott.
There are currently seven male CEOs with each female CEO across fashion companies.

Cross-Border Challengers

The global market is rising and the difficulties of well-established fashion labels that face a
range of increasing rivals in Asia in particular. Unknown companies on the Asian market
should expect to compete in the apparel industry to sell common goods at competitive rates
across cross-border e-commerce. The reduced emphasis on brand names and an growing
concentration on price points and usability are one of the main factors in this upcoming
phenomenon.
The increase of B2C's transaction volume for cross-border APAC is 37 percent year-on-year.

30
Unconventional Conventions

Since digital continues to grow in value for brands in luxury apparel, the industry will have to
reconsider its target demographic and ignore old models. Although trade shows have been the
core of the relationship between brand retailers before, everything has changed. For excel,
trade fairs must have creative experience and incorporate B2C attractions.

55% of brands and retailers believe that trade fairs are little or no longer significant, whilst
45% still believe that these events still offer opportunities for prosperity.

Digital Recalibration

Investors are concerned with the digital success of a company more than ever. However,
some emerging players have are more concerned about the road to profitability. During their
first year on the market, just 24 per cent on businesses will show positive net profits. Data
and analytics can allow consumers and vendors to live comfortably and can be a critical
differentiator in long-term results.

In the past two years, the average fashion-tech IPO has seen its stock price fall by 27 percent
since it became public.

31
 Key trends in the apparel industry in 2020
Source: (Schmidt, S. (n.d.). 4 Top Apparel Industry Trends to Watch in 2020. Retrieved May 6, 2020, from
https://blog.marketresearch.com/4-top-apparel-industry-trends-to-watch-in-2020)

While some commentators speak out with hope while others concentrate on issues facing the
industry, some notable developments in the apparel industry are highlighted.
Digitalisation's Position

The value of digitization in the fashion industry is both emphasated by Euromonitor and
McKinsey. In recent years, technological innovation has brought in a major investment from
customers shopping and engaging with brands and fashion companies such as Rent the
Runway, ThredUP and ThirdLove. In the light of the changing marketplace, both
conventional and new fashion brands need to improve their online presence, using big data
and research to deliver more tailored solutions and gain more market share.

Sustainability's Growing Significance

In addition to digitisation, innovation is another important theme in the apparel industry. The
future of the world is worried by more buyers and competition from fashion companies that
lack eco-friendly practises. Consequently, other businesses, according to Textile Intelligence,
are working to change their business models and produce goods produced from sustainable
materials. Adidas transforms plastic waste, which is used in shoes and clothes and on the
coasts into recycled polyester. Chanel invested in the company "Evolved by Nature" to
substitute synthetic chemicals with more environmentally friendly alternatives to the its
environmental effects.

A Plus Size Trend Change

Rising obesity worldwide has fuelled demand for more fashionable fashion as defined in the
report From Plus to Size-inclusive. Throughout the past, clothing choices for larger sizes
were scarce for many stores and often relegated to separate areas next to motherhood. This is
beginning to shift as large-scale projects are growing. Nordstrom, Target and many other
luxury retailers did not take the same steps to normalise double digit sizing.

Continued Athleisure Development

Although new goods usually experience a growth and contraction process, sports tend to
"defy gravity." The increasing prevalence of fitness may help understand how yoga-inspired
garments exist. During the time other stores are fighting to thrive, the company that has
launched athletics Lululemon Athletica continues to expand more than in the preceding year.
The global athletics industry will develop in a stable environment in the coming years. The
global athletics industry rose 9% by 2019, to $414 billion, according to GlobalData's figures.
It is estimated that the demand will hit 570 billion dollars by 2023. Athletics will gain more
popularity in Asia, but Eastern Europe provides an option as demand development in the west
grows harder.

32
 Best Practices in Sustainable Fashion Supply
Chain

Best Practices in Raw Material

All starts with the raw materials processing for our goods. The most viable choices, for
example cotton, hemp, wool and eucalyptus trees, are natural and readily recycled. Whilst
cotton may come as a shock, it does not affect soil, has less effect on climate, and utilises less
water and energy per acre than traditional cotton when farmed without certain chemicals that
handle most traditional cotton. This also has a quick eight- to nine-month renewable life
cycle. And because cotton here in the United States can be grown and processed, the carbon
footprint is lower. Flax, linen and hemp are more quickly growing, spinning crop fibres.
Eucalyptus trees are also quickly replanting, which allows them to grow faster if harvested,
rather than rooted. Nevertheless, in comparison to cotton plants, eucalyptus wood needs
energy to be processed into fibre before it can be used for clothing.
As the first step in the supply chain, apparel retailers may need to begin by establishing a
partnership with farmers and their cloth suppliers to find out how their raw materials were
grown, processed, transformed or otherwise made. If a manufacturer buys fabric directly, this
knowledge may be called confidential and therefore unavailable. Fabric suppliers who are
transparent with their customers are most likely sustainably minded—and are selling their
goods at a premium due to higher quality and labour costs. (Contributor, G. (2018, April 24).
How Sustainable Can Our Fashion Be? A Look at Best Practices For Sustainable Supply
Chains. Retrieved from https://www.thegoodtrade.com/features/sustainable-supply-chain-
best-practices)

Best Practices in Conversion of Raw Material

When the raw material is harvested, the yarn requires energy and money. This has the
advantages of natural fabrics such as cotton. The sorting is fully mechanical — the need to
apply toxic chemicals before the wool is delivered to a garment factory for production.
That contributes to semi-synthetic fibres. Those are natural fibres, which have to make
smooth, silky yarn through a chemical phase. Examples of rayon, lyocell, modal and bamboo
are identified. Both these fibres are not equally made, however. Rayons are produced most
often by a toxic process called the ‘viscose process’. The solvent with carbon disulphide
dissolves cellulose into a dense viscous solution and is then poured into fibres by means of
sulfuric acid. Carbon disulphide is a recognised human reproductive hazard hazardous
compound. This will endanger factory employees and pollute the atmosphere through
pollution and wastewater emissions. In most viscose plants, about 50% of this solvent is
extracted, and the remainder is expended in the environment. Despite this effect in Europe
there are no radiation manufacturers; the EPA rules find wastewater to be too pollutant and
the first producer of radiation to be shut down a decade ago.

33
Best Practices in Weaving & Finishing

Yarn is sent for weaving or kneading into cotton to silk mills. Resources are minimal to
continue this mechanism in the United States. North Carolina is the third largest employer of
California and Texas textile workers, according to the United States Bureau of Labour
Statistics (BLS). Lydia Wendt, a threefold sustaining label revolutionary clothing and
fashion corporation, is partnering with American manufacturers to produce products
beginning their life cycles at a U.S. farm and finishing in an all-US supply chain. The
organisation has already been working closely with American manufacturers. The unfinished
cloth needs to be cleaned, thinned and framed after the mill weavings or knitting in fabric for
processing. That is true even though the organisation does not intend to teat the tissue as the
cloth / scour tests the torque and retraction of the tissue. The 'finishing' cycle provides a
broad point of entry for the introduction of harmful chemicals such as sodium hypochlorite or
whiting chlorine into the cloth.

Best Practices in Dyeing Procedure

If the cloth is spun, it is ready for the colouring process. It is completed. For the apparel
industry, the dyeing cycle presents a huge challenge. Continuously spill the excess water into
local waterways, destroys water source or damages agriculture, for example, in Asia and in
South America. The freshwater dye houses created would be significantly less dangerous if
green chemistry and hazardous chemicals were removed away from the dyed process when
the atmosphere is reintegrated. companies can turn to these ecofriendly alternatives.

Best Practices in Cost, cut & Sew

Fabrics and staff are at the edge of the supply chain that hack, stitch and print our garments
often. It is the part of the supply chain which undergoes the greatest cost cuts despite being
the most labour intensive. Costs in developed countries are greatly lowered by the use of
cheaper costs in markets. Workers in Bangladesh, where 80 percent of exports from the
country are in garments, now earn about 43 dollars a month the lowest minimum wage in the
world. Slightly more Chinese plant employees make: $117 to $147 a month. American textile
employees earn nearly $9 an hour, thus having $1,660 a month return. (Contributor, G.
(2018, April 24). How Sustainable Can Our Fashion Be? A Look At Best Practices For
Sustainable Supply Chains. Retrieved from
https://www.thegoodtrade.com/features/sustainable-supply-chain-best-practices)
In addition to being competitive for green technologies, if customers and fashion businesses
keep demanding reform in the market, the corporations would want to adapt to demand.

34
 Innovation in Textile Industry
With the U.S. textile complex developing next-generation textile materials such as
conductive textiles with antistatic properties, electronic textiles capable of tracking heart rate
and other vital indications, anti-microbial fibres, body armours and new textiles which adapt
to the environment to warm or refresh the wearer, the United States is the world leader in
Textile Research and Development. Between 2006 and 2017, the U.S. textile industry spent
$22.8 billion in new facilities. (Textiles Spotlight. (n.d.). Retrieved from
https://www.selectusa.gov/textiles-industry-united-states)
New facilities in the textile supply chains, including recycling facilities, have recently been
opened by the US manufacturers to process textiles and other waste in new textile
applications and resins.

Textiles are able to measure temperature and generate electricity. Bacteria are destroyed,
wounds are healed, and new high-tech fibres will soon save lives, fabrics will soon track a
wide range of vital functions and cause emergencies. In particular, medical technology for
advanced textile products is a wide area of research. From the garments with antibacterial to
remedies. Biologist Gregor Hohn also formed a close relationship in Baden-Württemberg at
the Hohenstein Institutes. When touching the tissue, the wound dressing releases medicine at
fixed doses. Many revolutionary clothing features do require external batteries, but this
problem will soon be solved. Textiles can produce their own energy, and even store it.
The University of California's researcher for materials Liwei Lin wants to train tiny drums of
a material called polyvinyl-fluoride (PVDF), which transforms the kinetic energy generated
by deformation into electricity to achieve the so-called piezoelectric effect. The tissue then
produces energy as it is pushed and can control an MP3 player, for example.

Textiles Will Be Battery Enhanced

Tissue dyes that can store electricity are already available. In a couple of years, it might be
time for the adapter cord to bring the T-shirt. But even though you train regularly, this may
not be necessary any more. In addition, there are almost infinite fields in which creative
textiles are used. House textiles and home textiles are obvious naturally: awnings and
awnings which repel dirt and waters. Antibacterial fabrics defending mattresses from
household mites or other chemicals or carpets turning toxic contaminants into harmless air
(i.e. nicotine).

Carbon Fibre-Reinforced Polymer (CFRP) In Construction & Automotive

Sector

Vehicle building is also one of the fields benefiting from textile laboratories' creativity. CFRP
is a good example: its low weight combined with a high force and low temperature sensitivity
make it suitable for use in aircraft and automobile constructions. CFRP is an example of the
consistency of its material. In contrast to traditional construction methods, by using CFP, for
example, the weight of the Airbus A 380 may be decreased by about 25 percent. Innovative
textiles are hardly connected to the building industry. But here too, something happens:

35
concrete is reinforced instead of steel by textiles. For example, for bridges, this results in
larger spans.
In particular, the textile industry has benefited in recent years from a true flood of innovation,
which demonstrates that crises-ridden industries can not only endure, but also strengthen their
readiness to take brave and creative routes. New user segments and consumer opportunities
are being opened up with ingenuity in conventional areas such as clothes or home materials,
as well as completely new applications in medicine or the automotive industry and
construction. Smart textiles and wearables, however, have the greatest potential for the
future. The key challenge of innovation management in the textile industry nowadays is to
understand this.

Bio-fabricated Leather

Modern way to create protein-built substances – using molecular natural building blocks.
Material invention has characterised the development of civilization throughout history. In
the Stone Age, we mastered natural materials such as leather, silk and wool. The Age of
Plastics brought about the development of synthetic polymers. And now we can tap into the
nature toolkit on the basis of decades of invention to transform materials, which imply a new
era: the Bio-fabrication Period. In short, leather grows in Modern Meadow. Science Fiction is
being brought about by this creative venture. They are able to build and change leather for
various purposes and quality basics through collagen production. From DNA to clothing, the
output is completely regulated. In short, leather grows in Modern Meadow. Science Fiction is
being brought about by this creative venture. They are able to build and change leather for
various purposes and quality basics through collagen production. From DNA to clothing, the
output is completely regulated.

High-grade Natural Leather Substitute

Maestley, the latest high-grade natural leather substitute, was created by the Teijin
Group in Japan. Maestley's texture, complexity and other superior qualities are
similar to natural leather. Via creative fibre selection technologies, non-woven
structures, material densities and lamination methods, Teijin Cordley developed
Maestley. By following natural leather processing procedures in cooperation with
Japanese tanners, the company will extend its range of Maestley products. Calf and
kip prices for high-grade natural leathers are increasingly increasing as the market
rises, although supplies are decreasing in the developing countries. To fulfil this
requirement, new man-made leathers with superior texture are being created. The
company's advanced, hand-made leather manufacturing technology will improve the
Maestley line-up by improving the comfort, longevity and air-resistance as well as the
moisture permeability for the high-end footwear and pocket. Together with tanners in
Japan, Teijin will also introduce a new series of products with a texture and felt that
matches that of natural leather and that use the same processes in production as
natural leather.

36
The Post-Consumer Cotton Waste Jeans Levi Strauss & Co. and Evrnu

The first jean worldwide – in a pair of Levi's jeans – was made with five recycled cotton tees
to create new fabric in Levi Strauss & Co. collaborated to Evrnu, SPC, the start-up of textile
manufacturing. According to Evrnu, it uses 98% less water than virgin cotton goods, which
just transforms food waste into renewable fibre. While some virgin cotton was used, the
development of recycling was a major breakthrough. the ability to reduce water needed to
develop virgin cotton by 98 percent, while giving each garment several lives. While early,
this technology is very promising and an exciting move forward to research the use of
regenerated cotton to reduce our global impact significantly. Every year, 13.1 million tonnes
of textile waste was produced in the United States alone, with 11 million tonnes ending up in
sites. Bis now, a feasible solution had not been found to transform old clothes into new ones
without compromising quality or energy. However, both businesses have the ambition to
create a circular economy that extends the life of cotton and eliminates waste in order to
encourage new life in used clothes. The textile industry has the ability to substantially reduce
its water footprint by addressing water conservation through fibre innovation. As
technologies like Evrnu grow over time, the speed of transition towards a closed-loop
industry can be more quickly increased.

37
 Primary Findings from In-Depth Telephonic
Interview with

Anita Dongre Fashion House

Interviewed with Benaisha Dongre and go to know that there they have brands like AND,
Global Desi, Grass Root, Anita Dongre Fashion. From this the sustainable brand is Grass
Root. Everything used in this brand is organic right from the textile to the method to weave
the textile. There are natural colours used to die the fabric that aren’t harmful to the
environment. Their operations take place under a single roof that is self-sustained on the
outskirts of the state of Maharashtra. The water used at this location is harvested and there is
maximum sustenance employed. Their products are standardized. The product is packaged in
an ecofriendly biodegradable package that will completely deteriorate in 90 days from
disposal. Their other brand AND & Global Desi are international brands and they do not
focus on sustainability. They have other motives there hence there’s no emphasis on them in
this report.

Sun Textile Engineer; Sumeet Sharma

After an in-depth telephonic interview with Sumeet Sharma of Sun Textile Engineers who are
manufacturers of various textile washing, dyeing and finishing machines for the textile
industry supplying them in international as well as domestic markets I was able to understand
what goes into the manufacturing of these machines such as quality of the raw material,
knowledge of the fabric, steel being of two qualities which is mild steel, 304 stainless steel
and 316L stainless steel. The quality and the gauge unit of the steel (higher gauge unit =
lesser thickness of the steel) of the machine built directly impacts the life of the machine.
Good quality determines its level of sustainability by way of longevity in the industry.
Sumeet then explained how their particular machine to process the washing of printed & final
fabrics works; “Sun Vibro washing range for heavy fabrics” This consists of nine chambers
through which the fabric passes. Generally, water is used to wash the fabric, which is then
discarded. Through the process there’s a lot of wastage of water so to minimize that wastage
the water from the last two chambers are reused for washing fabric in the first two chambers.
This evidently saves a lot of water. Another advanced technology in dyeing of fabrics is an
“airflow dyeing machine”, which uses approximately less than 60 percent of the water
currently used in the soft flow dyeing machines (which are currently conventional & cost
friendly machine used for dyeing of knitted and cotton fabrics majorly). This is advancement
towards a sustainable tomorrow. Currently there are two companies globally leading in this
technology, FONGS & THEN that are Korean. In textile machineries overall developments
and technology comes at a cost, which is still a long journey for everyone to adapt in current
scenario.
(Pictures of the machines for reference are attached in Appendix I)

38
 Summary of Findings
• Current Industry Trends have been highlighted in this report and this had enabled
industry to look beyond current setting of supply chain as it is evolving.

• Waste in The Industry is due to the ways of production where the major amount of
waste clothes is 82% according to Pulse Report, 57 % ends up in a landfill while 25%
is incinerated. The methods for recycling clothes at end of life is tedious. It’s cheaper
to discard and produce new but this is not helping the environment.

• Innovations in the Textile Industry like carbon fiber reinforced polymer (CFRP)
has changed the way vehicles are built, lighter than before due to the utilization of
carbon fiber panels and Bio Fabricated leather have proved to be rescuer of animals
by mainstreaming such technological breakthrough inventions the animals reared for
the purpose of hide could be reduced. Vegans will also be happy to wear leather made
not from animal hide. The count of vegans is increasing globally.

• Integration of Industry 4.0 In Textile Industry technologies like smart forecasting

will enable better outcomes for future production as predictions can be made based on
which colour or cut will be clicked the most next season by customers.AR and VR
have enabled production become more error free which in turn will save the company
lot of resources. This encourages sustainability. Fashion 4.0 is the means to
sustainability in the industry and not sustainable on its own.

• Best Practices in Textile Industry when it comes to type of raw material and ways
to procure them and convert them into finished product. Having the products that
don’t harm the environment in a way of producing them that’s equally sustainable is
what we refer to when we discuss best practices in the textile industry. The way it is
carried out should be ethical. Societal concerns should be addressed. The cost, cut &
sew are a part and parcel of this arrangement.

• The Production Process of Machines for Textile Manufacturing to make sure the
product is sustainable not only is it important for the produced commodity to be of
sustainable nature but also the process of producing it should be sustainable. In case
of the textile industry it does not stop at fabric but also the means of producing the
same which is the machines used in producing, dyeing, shrinking fabric.

• Sustainable Brand is developed keeping in mind that everything to be done in the

workshop is to be sustainable. From process of acquiring the raw material to nature of
raw material. The in-factory eco system should be sustainable along will all the
complementing processes required to finish the product. This creates an awareness
and contributes to the global sustainability cause.

39
 Conclusion
Sustainable fashion is a rapidly growing segment of the textile industry with the potential to
develop because customers become more conscious that workers become unethically
exploited and manufacturing processes in the apparel segment are being degraded
environmentally. New technology that will be brought about ushering in the era of Fashion
4.0 with AI, Smart Forecasting, Digital-Twin to make simulating outcomes cheaper which in
turn enables the management to make pro-active decisions leading to better outcomes
proceeding ahead on this path of sustainability in the textile industry largely.The fashion
industry can be made more competitive for the future by rising demand and output habits. To
produce the results that the campaign requires, customers must understand that the non-
transparent, fast-mode giants to which they actively subscribe have little meaningful social or
environmental effect. Companies need to create multi-faceted marketing strategies along with
more informed customers, that go beyond "urban" or "eco-friendly," and that promote
customer service, convenience, and brand identity. Sustainable mode can have a very positive
social and environmental impact on the way people eat and how businesses grow, with an
acceptable mix.

Recommendations
For a rising array of influential apparel brands participating in green branding campaigns,
environmental sustainability is becoming a key strategic strategy for many businesses. There
should be a focus on the growing awareness of sustainability in the industry. The era of
fashion 4.0 is being ushered in and this is what gives the industrialists a path to tread on.
Hence the recommendations from the study of this report is to focus more on technologies of
Industry 4.0 and integrate into Fashion 4.0. AI and Smart Forecasting are good ways to go
about in the retail supply chain of the fashion industry. The best practices implemented are
effective guidelines.

Scope for Future Research

This study was conducted during the period of global pandemic COVID-19 so no face to face
interactions were able to be conducted. The future scope of this topic will be to have more
face to face interaction with leading experts and do more secondary research by visiting
libraries and reviewing literatures and previous studies conducted on the topic. This report
has interviews with two people at different positions of the supply chain. More resources of
research would be preferable as this exploratory research is vast. A further study will be
sensible to conduct after seeing the way the current trends are to be followed,

40
 Limitation of Study

• Data obtained by third parties cannot be 100 percent correct.

• Face-to-face interviews were not possible due to global pandemic, COVID-19.

• The primary data collected is a telephone interview movement for primary data
acquisition was smaller to none.

• Secondary data has been collected from reliable sources and published documents
available in the public domain.

• Interviews held were later than expected due to the COVID-19 Pandemic.

• Interview conducted with Anita Dongre’s family member for which questionnaire
was sent to Operation Manager could not be included as the manager contacted
certain unseen undisclosed illness.

41
 Appendix I

Soft Flow Dyeing Machine

42
Air Flow Dyeing Machine

SUN Vibro Washing Range

43
 Appendix II

Primary Research Questionnaire

The report consists of findings from in-depth interviews with Sun Textile Engineers, a textile
equipment manufacturing company. And Anita Dongre House of Fashion, a fashion brand
that’s also working on sustainable fashion line known as Anita Dongre Grassroot.
Questions/topics used as triggers to obtain information are given below.

1. Please describe the power source on the production floor in workshop (along lines of:
Lighting, water, equipment, etc.)

2. Have you acquired GOTS certification?

3. If yes, List the criteria and Rank in order of importance.

4. Describe the process of shipping to client.

5. Are all operations, involved in making the final product sustainable? or only the
product material is sustainable?

6. Which is the most wasteful process?

7. Which is the most economical process?

8. Current sustainable practices of the organization.

9. Future plans for improving sustainability.

10. Would you say that the production process is lean?

11. Do you believe in lean practices to improve sustainability? If yes please explain
briefly with an example of your organization.

12. Current lean practices of the organization. Provide a Value stream map to understand
the value addition along the supply chain.

13. What are the kinds of machines which are high in demanded?

14. What are the principled followed by your organization to keep business sustainable?

44
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