Arrow Selection Guide

Carbon Arrow Selection Guide
Chapter 1 Basics and Measurements
Intro: Arrows Make a Big Difference!

To bowhunters who select their arrows each season by grabbing a handful from the miscellaneous arrow bucket at the
local super-mart, you may be surprised to learn that shooting custom arrows will greatly improve your success in the field
- for less money than you might think. If you want reliable and accurate performance from your compound bow, shooting
the proper arrow is very important. All arrows are not created equal. An arrow should be built to match the specific
settings and output characteristics of YOUR bow setup, so every shot launches perfectly from your bow without
fishtailing or porpoisng. An improper arrow will not only fly poorly, profoundly degrading your accuracy, but it may
present a safety hazard for you and your expensive compound bow. There are a number of important considerations to
juggle: proper spine, FOC balance, weight, straightness, fletching material, fletching angle, arrow length, etc., when
selecting a set of hunting or 3D arrows. And if you're feeling a bit lost, don't worry. This isn't exactly rocket-science - just
a bit of background information you'll need to know in order to make an informed choice. These next sections will take
you step-by-step through the process of selecting and ordering arrows with just the right specifications to match your
particular bow system. We hope you find this help section useful.
Let start with the basics. The parts of a modern hunting arrow are pretty straight forward, but these parts will be referred
to throughout this help guide. So before we really get going here, let's take a moment to bone-up on our arrow jargon.
The foundation of every arrow is the SHAFT, a long hollow tube usually made of aluminium or carbon/graphite composite
materials. The rear of the arrow is fitted with a small piece of molded plastic called a NOCK, which allows the arrow to
physically attach to the bow's string. At the front of the arrow is a small aluminium (sometimes plastic) sleeve called an
INSERT. The insert gets glued into the end of the shaft and provides a threaded hole in which to screw in the arrow's
TIP. A tip doesn't necessarily have to be a practice point (as pictured here). A standard insert allows you to screw-in
and use of a variety of tips in the same arrow (broadheads, judo-points, blunt-tips, field points, fishing tips, etc.). The last
component is the arrow's FLETCHING. The arrow's fletching is usually done with colorful parabolic shaped pieces of
soft plastic (vanes) or feathers. In most cases, the three fletches are glued onto the shaft in an equally spaced circular
pattern, with two fletches one color and the the third fletch a different color (the cock-fletch). The fletching is very
important, as it provides steering and stabilization for the arrow during flight.
The proper method of measuring an arrow is to find the distance between the groove of the nock (where the string
rests in the nock) to the end of the arrow's insert. Never include the tip when measuring an arrow. We measure and
trim all arrows to length using this standard AMO (now the ATA) method. If you already have existing arrows which fit
your bow properly, simply measure one by this method and order the same size. If you are unsure about what arrow
length is appropriate for your bow setup, the next section may help.
Background: Measuring Draw Length of the Bow

The proper length for your arrow will depend upon several factors: the draw
length for which the bow is set, the type of bow you have, and the type &
position of your arrow rest.
Before we dive into this issue, we should briefly discuss how draw length is
measured. Officially - according to the standard AMO method - a bow's
draw length setting can be found by measuring the distance between the
groove of the nock - to a position 1 3/4" forward from the pivot point of the
grip - when the bow is at full draw. Confused? Not to worry. There's a
simplified method too.
Conveniently enough, for most bows, 1 3/4" forward from the pivot point of the grip puts you roughly at the outer edge of
the bow's riser. So without splitting too many hairs, we can say that a bow's draw length is approximately from the nock
point to the front of the riser - when the bow is drawn back. So if you drew back a 29" arrow, and the insert of the arrow
www.huntersfriend.com 1
lined-up with the front edge of the bow's riser, the bow is set for approximately 29" draw length. Whew! Glad that's
covered!
If you're truly an archery junkie, you may have also heard about the concept of True Draw Length, which is an older and
much less popular method of measurement. Officially, True Draw Length is the distance at full draw from the nocking
point to the low (pivot) point of the grip. So a True Draw Length measurement will be 1.75" short of an AMO draw
length measurement. There isn't much talk about True Draw Length these days, and it's fine point of archery jargon
that really isn't worth dissecting. But if the question ever comes up on Jeopardy, you'll know.
Also, we recommend you not automatically trust the factory sticker on your bow that indicates draw length. In many
cases, the manufacturer's sticker and the ACTUAL draw length of the bow can be quite different - sometimes
dramatically. And since changing your draw length may necessitate changing arrows too - we can avoid some trouble
here by thinking ahead. If your bow does not already fit you comfortably, you should have the draw length adjusted
before ordering your custom arrows. Arrows which may be perfect for a bow at 29" draw length, may be totally
inappropriate for the same bow set at 27" draw length (much more on this topic later).
Background: Measuring Draw Length of the Shooter

Ideally, the draw length setting of the bow and the proper draw length of the shooter should match. If they don't, we
have some work to do first before thinking about what arrows to select.
Unlike a traditional recurve bow that can be drawn back to

virtually any length, a compound bow will draw back only a
specific distance before it stops. Compound bows are
designed to be shot from the full-draw position. If a compound
bow is set for a 29" draw length, it should always be shot from
the full 29" draw position. But the bow cannot be over-drawn,
say to 30" or 31", without modifying the setup on the bow. Nor
should the bow be shot from the 28" draw position. The draw
length on your compound bow must be set to match your
particular size.
To measure your draw length, determine the length of your arm-span in inches. Stand with your arms out and palms
facing forward. Don't stretch when measuring. Just stand naturally. Have someone else help you, and measure from
the tip of one middle finger to the other. Then simply divide that number by 2.5. The quotient is your approximate draw
length (in inches) for your body size.
The majority of compound bow owners set their bows for too much draw length, which results in poor shooting form -
inaccuracy - and painful string slap on the forearm. You will better enjoy - and be more successful with your compound
bow when it is fitted properly to your body. And if in doubt, choose a little LESS draw length rather than a little more.
If you are a person of average proportions, your arm-span will be roughly equal to your height (in inches). So there is
often a direct correlation between a person's height and their draw length as well. Once you have computed your draw
length using the method above, you can double-check yourself by using the scale below - to see if your number is within
the expected range.
More Draw Length Discussion:

How close do you need to get? Within an inch? Half-inch? A quarter-inch? This issue could be debated, as there
probably isn't a right and wrong answer to this question. For most shooters, a ±½" change in draw length is hardly
noticed. To be realistic, half-inch sizes are probably precise enough (27½", 28", 28½, 29", 29½", etc.), particularly for
the purposes of hunting and recreational archery. Besides, as your bow's string ages and stretches over time (as ALL
strings do), your draw length will slightly increase - a little fraction at a time. So constantly maintaining a razor-specific
28 13/16" draw length may be a frustrating endeavour for you and your pro-shop.
If you're new to the sport, and unsure what draw length is appropriate for you, we strongly recommend you just play the
averages and use the chart above. But admittedly, there is no perfect formula to solve this problem. Every shooter is
different and the opinions on the methodology for measuring and checking draw length varies considerably throughout
the industry: the yardstick against the breastbone, the fist against the wall, tip of the finger to the top of the shoulder, the
arm-span method, etc. Without the benefit of an actual bow to draw back and actually check - each of these methods
only provides us with an estimate.
And even if we do have a test-bow to draw back, there's still no clear consensus on exactly what to check. Some say
the string should just touch your nose at full draw. Others believe the nock of the arrow should align to the corner of your
mouth. A few experts think eye-to-peep distance determines draw length. And then when we toss in other variables:
bent bow-arm vs. straight bow-arm, finger release vs. mechanical release, direct string release vs. D-loop release, low
anchor points vs. high anchor points, hard wall vs. soft wall, etc.....the choice of draw length seems to get mystically
complicated.
You'll likely find that even the "pros" don't necessarily agree. If you go into several different archery shops to be
measured for draw length, you're bound to get a variety of "expert" opinions. So before you get frustrated, remember
that determining an individual's draw length isn't exactly a measurement of scientific certainty. So if you're just getting
started in the sport, there's no need to get too carried away computing the square-root of your hypotenuse. Instead, we
recommend you just play the averages and choose an initial draw length that's similar to others of your same size and
stature (reference the chart above). There will always be time to "tweak" your draw length a little as you gain
experience and learn to analyse your shooting form more closely. YOU will ultimately be the final judge on your own
perfect personal draw length. If you're still unsure, read our Additional Discussion on Draw Length.
Chapter 1 Summary:
Before moving on, you should be clear on the following:
1. What are the parts of an arrow?

2. What is the proper method for measuring the length of an arrow?
3. If you already have a properly adjusted bow with matching arrows, how long are those arrows?
For New Setups.....

4. How do I determine the actual current AMO draw length setting of my bow?
5. What draw length setting is most appropriate for me and my particular size?
If your draw length and your bow's draw length do not match, have your bow's draw length adjusted before you
begin selecting arrows to match your setup.
Chapter 2 Arrow Length and Mass
Choosing Your Arrow Length

Many shooters believe that proper arrow length should always be equal to or
should exceed the bow's draw length. So if we rely on this conventional wisdom, a 30"
draw bow would always shoot a 30+" arrow. Right? Well......not necessarily!!!
Times have changed, and the traditional thinking may or may not apply to your
particular bow rig. In many instances, the proper arrow length for your bow may be
considerably less than the measured draw length of the bow.
RISER TYPE:
There are several factors to consider here. So we'll start with the big one - riser type
(the riser is the "handle" portion of the bow). Some years ago, as traditional
magnesium molded risers gave way to the production of CNC machined
aluminium, we were blessed by the welcome innovation of the center-shot
cutaway riser (Figure A). The center-shot cutaway riser has a much wider arrow shelf,
and the center section of the riser is shifted well to the side. This allows the true
center-shot of the bow (where your arrow rest should line up left and right) to be
spaced far enough away from the riser's edge as to allow feathers and vanes to easily pass by the inside edge without
any contact with the bow. A brilliant idea! Almost all new compound bows are now this style.
A basic molded riser (Figure B) does not have this feature. The actual centre-shot of the bow is very close to (if not
right against) the edge of the riser. This type of riser typically uses a flipper/plunger style rest, where a cutaway riser
generally cannot.
So what does all this have to do with arrow length? Ah-ha! Remember our earlier discussion where we learned "If you
drew back a 29" arrow, and the insert of the arrow lined-up with the front edge of the bow's riser, the bow is set for
approximately 29" draw length"? Hold that thought. Because center-shot cutaway risers can shoot arrows that are
LESS than the bow's adjusted draw length (so they can rest inside the arrow shelf). Bows without a center-shot cutaway
riser generally cannot (arrows must "hang-over").
CLEARANCE FOR BROADHEADS:

With a traditional molded riser bow, arrows must be AT LEAST as long as the bow's draw
length if you ever intend to use broadheads or other tips larger than the diameter of
the arrow. Since the arrow rides along close to the riser, there isn't enough room to draw
back a broadhead over the arrow shelf such that one of the blades doesn't snag on the
edge of the riser as you're coming to full draw. So if you have an older bow without the
benefit of a center-shot cutaway riser, choosing your arrow length is easy. In this
case, we recommend you order arrows 1/2-1" longer than the bow's actual adjusted draw
length. And regardless of what kind of riser you have, if you intend to shoot specialty
small game hunting tips (Judo Points, Snaro's, Condor Tips, etc.) which are unusually wide,
you will definitely need arrows that are slightly longer than the bow's draw length. Even a
center-shot cutaway bow doesn't have sufficient clearance to draw that type of tip
beyond the outer edge of the riser.
Now, if you shoot a modern bow with a center-shot cutaway riser, the choice isn't so
simple. Since a center-shot cutaway riser allows clearance for common broadheads
to be drawn back beyond the outer edge of the riser, you can shoot a considerably shorter arrow. In fact, many modern
compound shooters trim their arrows to the minimum length - just beyond the arrow rest. Why would they do that?
Simple....SPEED! The shorter an arrow is, the lighter it will be and the faster it will fly. We'll discuss the issue of arrow
weight vs. speed in much more detail in Section #4. But ultimately, the position of your arrow rest determines the
minimum arrow length for a modern center-shot cutaway bow. An arrow that is trimmed 1/2-1" beyond the arrow rest will
work quite well in a center-shot cutaway riser bow.
ARROW REST POSITION FOR CUTAWAY BOWS:

Some arrow rests mount more rearward than others, permitting the use of shorter and shorter arrows. There's even a
device known as an overdraw, that's specifically designed to relocate and reposition the arrow rest rearward - just so a
shorter arrow can be used. However, with the increasing popularity of lightweight carbon arrow shafts, overdraws aren't
really necessary any more, and are rarely used on modern hunting rigs. But some type of modern arrow rests still
function much like an overdraw - locating the rest position closer to the shooter.
The diagram below illustrates how the position of the rest changes the necessary arrow length. With a standard TM
Hunter style rest, the proper arrow length is usually 1-2" less than the bow's draw length. With a Whisker Biscuit rest,
usually 2-3" less than the draw length. And with a Muzzy Zero Effect, as much as 3-4" less than the bow's draw length.
However, it should be noted that most arrow rests can be mounted and adjusted in different positions. Consider this as
an estimation only.
With all that said, the most reliable method is to actually draw back an arrow and measure. Once your draw length is set
perfectly and your arrow rest is mounted in it's permanent position, you can simply draw back an arrow and have
someone else use a magic marker to mark the shaft where it actually sits on the arrow rest at full draw. Trimming the
arrow shaft anywhere 1/2" (or more) forward of that position is acceptable. The most common method is to trim the
arrows so that 1/2" to 1" sticks out beyond the rest. We recommend you not trim arrows to the very bare minimum, as
over time your string may stretch a little, letting your draw length out a tad, and leaving you with arrows that are too
short. And once an arrow is cut too short, it's cut too short for life.
ARROW LENGTH AFFECTS ARROW SPINE:

Before you make up your mind about your arrow length, there's one more detail we'll need to consider. The length of
your arrow is a factor in determining the proper stiffness, or spine, for your perfect arrow. The longer your arrow is, the
more limber it will act when shot. The shorter your arrow is, the more stiff it will act when shot. We'll cover this issue in
more detail in the next section, but you should be aware that shooting an extra long arrow often results in a double-
whammy regarding arrow weight. If you shoot an excessively long arrow, not only will the excess shaft weight result in a
heavier and slower flying arrow, but the added length may necessitate changing to an even heavier/stiffer arrow spine.
For those of you looking to bulk-up your carbon arrows to gain a little KE (more on this later too), a little more arrow
length may be a good thing. But most shooters want to get as much snap as possible out of their high performance
compound bows, so keeping an eye on excess arrow weight is a big consideration.
Note : Yes! We realize static spine and dynamic spine aren't the same thing. We'll get to that too. :)
To Cut or Not to Cut: Trimming the Arrows

When you purchase your new set of arrows, you have two choices regarding arrow length. Most raw arrow shafts are
deliberately made too long (usually 32-24") so that they can be trimmed to length to suit your particular bow. You may
choose to receive your arrows UNCUT (full-length) OR you may receive your arrows already trimmed to length and
inserted. There is no added charge for trimming and inserting your arrows, but here are a few things to consider before
you decide.
Carbon arrows should only be cut with a high-speed abrasive-wheel saw. Attempting to trim your new carbon arrows
with your hacksaw or your plumber's tubing cutter will result in
splintered fibers and a weakened arrow shaft. Using a good
quality arrow saw is best. However, with a little patience, you can
get a respectable cut using your Dremel Rotary Tool with an
abrasive cutting wheel attachment. So if you're the "handy" type,
you may wish to order arrows full-length and trim your own. Metal
inserts will still be included (but uninstalled) with full-length arrow
orders. Metal inserts are often installed with a "hot-melt" type
glue to allow fine tuning of some style broadheads.
If you would rather avoid the handyman hassle and you're already
sure of your arrow length, we would be happy to professionally trim and insert your new arrows free of charge. In this
case, once your arrows arrive, you'll just need to screw in your tips and then you're all ready to shoot. However, before
you select this option, you should double-check your measurements for accuracy. It's always safer to measure twice
and cut once, as once your arrows are trimmed to the length you specify, they cannot be returned for an
exchange or refund. However, full-length arrows, still uncut and without inserts installed, can be returned.
Arrow Straightness: by the Thousandths
Most carbon arrows are advertised to have a specific straightness tolerance (usually
measured along a 28" section of the shaft) between .001" and .006". The straighter the arrow,
the more expensive they will typically be. Most standard-grade carbon arrows have a
straightness of around .006". These basic shafts are usually called "Hunters", and for good
reason. For the purposes of close-quarters treestand hunting, most standard-grade shafts are
more than adequate. A typical human hair is about .004"-.006" in diameter. So even a basic
carbon shaft of .006" straightness is quite good, and straighter than you could possibly
perceive without specialized equipment. But most manufacturers also offer a mid-grade shaft
which will have an advertised straightness of around .003", and finally a "Pro" shaft that will
claim .001" or less.
Many hunters and recreational shooters report they can tell no difference in .006" arrows
and .001" arrows, except for the size of the dent each respectively puts in their wallets. Of
course, we're not suggesting that arrow straightness is an insignificant attribute, it's just that
most archers don't have enough shooting skill to differentiate between them. Pro-level shooters often report the
opposite, and choose the straightest arrow they can find for competition. Of course, most pro shooters don't have to pay
for their own arrows. So choosing the best arrow in the line-up isn't really such a hard choice to make for these
shooters.
From a pure physics standpoint, arrow straightness certainly does matter.

When fired from a sophisticated shooting machine, the difference becomes
more evident, as the straighter arrows fly and group measurably better,
particularly at longer distances and when shooting broadheads. So
theoretically, shooting good straight arrows can increase your “effective
shooting” distance and provide better hits on the marginal shots. But be
advised, spending $100+ on a set of ultra-straight .001" arrows will not likely
transform you into Randy Ulmer. If your accuracy isn't as spectacular as you
would like, it's most likely the result of tuning/clearance or shooting-form issues, rather than arrow straightness.
Nonetheless, arrow straightness is one variable you can tip in your favor for a few extra bucks. If that extra advantage
yields a few more points on the 3D range, or helps you to land the shot of a lifetime - then it's money well spent. It
certainly doesn't hurt to get the straightest arrow you can afford. So.....good, better, or best? The choice is up to you.
Regarding straightness, carbon arrows offer a distinct benefit over aluminiums. While a carbon arrow's advertised specs
may be no straighter than a typical aluminium shaft, carbon arrows resist distorting and "bending out of shape" much
better than aluminium arrows. Though an aluminium shaft may BEGIN with a similar ±.003" straightness, it's
straightness quickly deteriorates through normal use and handling. So after a few months of use, your aluminium arrow
set may contain a few arrows that are ±.003", a few at ±.012", and a few at ±.025". Carbon arrows generally do not
retain this kind of "memory" after being stressed. So your carbon arrow set stays much more straight and uniform - even
with heavy use. Some archers even joke that there are only two states of a carbon arrow: straight or broken, but never
bent. While that's not entirely accurate, it does help to illustrate the point.
Arrow Weight: Grains not Grams

Not only will you need to determine the proper length of your arrows, but you'll also need to know something about arrow
weight. Depending on their length, type, tip weight, fletching options, etc., arrows can dramatically vary in weight. How
heavy should your arrows be? Well....let's start at the top.
First thing. The weight of an arrow is customarily measured in GRAINS. Grains (gr) and grams (g) are totally different
units of measure. The grain is a British system unit - based on the weight of a grain of barley. A gram is a metric unit of
weight. So don't confuse them. A gram is a lot heavier than a grain. A 350 grain (gr) arrow weighs only 22.75 grams
(g). But since archers measure in grains, let's just try to just forget about grams for now.
Given how tiny a grain is (only 1/7000th of a pound), your kitchen diet scale won't help at all. If you would like to have
the ability to accurately weigh your own arrows without the need for conversion tables and a calculator, you can
purchase an archer's scale that's specifically calibrated in grains. However, when you order custom arrows from
Hunter's Friend, your arrow set will arrive already weighed and certified by one of our professional arrow builders.
Arrow Weight: Is Lighter Better?
This is a hotly debated topic that we'll cover in more detail in Chapter 5. But the fact is, lighter arrows fly faster with less
loss of trajectory. A faster arrow won't necessarily penetrate better, but it will make it to the target more quickly. For
some bowhunters and 3D shooters, this is a great benefit. A bow that shoots very fast is often described as "shooting
flat". The "flat" part is a reference to the natural rainbow-shaped parabolic flight-path that all arrows invariably take. A
faster arrow travels with less perceptible arc, so it is described as shooting "flat". And this seems to be a characteristic
that many shooters seek in a bowhunting or 3D rig.
In the current archery market, speed sells. Right or wrong, it's a fact. Like in many industries, archery manufacturers
are under constant pressure to make things go faster. As a result, each year brings a new bumper-crop of even lighter
arrow shafts, better string materials, more efficient bow designs, friction-reducing components, etc. Again, there is some
disagreement on this issue, and we'll hammer out the pro's and con's in Chapter 5. But the main idea is, lighter arrows
go faster - sometimes dramatically faster. Heavy arrows go slower. So if you want your bow to shoot "flat", lightweight
arrows are going to be a must.
Arrow Weight: How Light is TOO Light?
Shooting an arrow that is too light can be dangerous, both to you and your expensive compound bow. Shooting an
underweight arrow has a similar effect as dry-firing your bow. Without sufficient arrow weight, the string and limbs of
your compound bow move too quickly and violently. It's like putting your car in neutral and flooring the gas pedal. The
bow needs the resistance of the arrow just as the engine needs the resistance of the car's drive train.
Of course, an underweight arrow will fly like a rocket - generating unbelievable speeds. But anyone who does this is just
asking for trouble. Modern compound bows aren't toys. They generate a tremendous amount of energy and should be
treated with the same respect you would give any dangerous weapon. The vast majority of serious compound bow
failures are not caused by manufacturer defects, but rather by dry-firing the bow or shooting dramatically underweight
arrows. For your personal safety, and the longevity of your bow, we most strongly recommend you follow the IBO or
AMO Standard regarding minimum arrow weight.
The International Bowhunting Organization (IBO) sets a 5 grains per pound standard that's pretty simple to follow. Arrow
weight should never be less than 5X the bow's draw weight. So a 60# bow should shoot no less than a 300 (5 x 60)
grain arrow. Simple enough! Another authority in the archery industry, the Archery Trade Association (formerly the
AMO), also publishes an arrow weight recommendation chart called the AMO Minimum Arrow Weight Chart. The AMO
chart is a bit more complex and takes more variables into account (brace height, bow efficiency, cam design, draw
length, etc.), but it is less widely used. Some manufacturers ask you follow one standard, some the other. And
depending upon your particular bow setup, the IBO and AMO recommendations may or may not be the same. Check
the literature that came with your bow to find which standard you should follow.
However, since the IBO Standard applies at most 3D courses, many competitive shooters setup their arrows to weigh
exactly 5 grains per pound. This keeps them just within the rules while providing the fastest possible arrow speeds.
However, bowhunters usually choose arrow weights between 5 and 9 grains per pound. Later on in this guide we'll use
an online arrow weight calculator to build a simulated set of arrows, so you can make sure that
your arrows will be the appropriate weight for your bow before you actually order them.
IBO STANDARD: Minimum Allowable Arrow Weight - Includes Tip Weight

80# Bow 400 gr min. 64# Bow 320 gr min. 48# Bow 240 gr min.
76# Bow 380 gr min 60# Bow 300 gr min. 44# Bow 220 gr min.
Arrow Weight: Laws & Warranties

CHECK THE LAW
Years ago, when carbon arrows were first introduced in the archery market, their critics (mainly competing manufacturers
who didn't make carbon arrows at the time) launched anti-carbon arrow advertising campaigns to dissuade archers from
giving up their heavy aluminium arrows for lightweight carbon shafts. These ad campaigns claimed carbon arrows were
dangerous, they would splinter and break, they were inaccurate, wouldn't penetrate well, they would ruin your meat, they
could cut your hands during field dressing, etc. Of course, as we soon learned, all that corporate blathering was a
distortion of the truth - and today carbon arrows continue to command an increasingly dominant share of the hunting
arrow market. And in fact, the same manufacturers who once attacked the carbon arrow concept NOW make their own
carbon arrow shafts to sell.
Fortunately, the carbon arrow concept has prevailed, but there have been casualties in the Aluminium vs. Carbon War.
Several states still have hunting laws that reflect the early misconceptions about using lightweight carbon arrows for big
game hunting. For example: Washington State bowhunters must shoot arrows that weigh at least 6 grains per pound
(rather than the 5 gr/p/p recommended by the IBO), Alabama bowhunters must shoot at least 100 grain tips in their
arrows, and Connecticut bowhunters must use arrows that weigh at least 400 grains regardless of their bow's draw
weight. And while these antiquated restrictions may not exactly warrant an uprising, they are a part of each state's effort
to ensure ethical bowhunting practices. So we strongly suggest you check your state regulations before ordering your
hunting arrows, and respect your state's rules and regulations. And be advised that your state's rules and regulations
may change from year to year. As a sportsman, it's your responsibility to know the law and be sure your equipment is in
compliance from season to season.
WARRANTY SNAFU
Virtually all manufacturers rate and advertise their bows' IBO SPEEDS using test arrows that weigh exactly 5 gr/p/p (IBO
standard). And if you want to make your bow shoot even close to it's advertised IBO speed, you have to setup the bow
to shoot at or near 5 gr/p/p. But look at the photo on the left. How could this 70# bow ever shoot close to it's 300 fps
IBO Speed if the manufacturer clearly marks the bow to require a minimum 420 grain arrow? Odd, eh? This kind of
manufacturer recommendation is kind of a marketing paradox. What they're saying is,
"This bow can shoot 300 fps with a 350 grain arrow.....but YOU aren't allowed to make it
shoot that fast". As ridiculous as that sounds, several manufacturers pull this little fast
one on us.
To save a few dollars in warranty repairs and (more publicly) to increase their margins of
safety, a few manufacturers will sneak in a 6+ gr/p/p minimum recommendation on their
limb sticker or in their manual. Tricky, tricky! And some people follow it; others ignore it.
But with all that said, if your bow has such a notation for heavier arrows, we suggest you
contact the manufacturer to question the warranty implications before shooting arrows
lighter than the official factory recommendation.
If you have an older bow, or received no documentation with your bow regarding arrow mass, contact the manufacturer
before shooting lightweight carbon arrows.
Chapter 2 Summary:
1. What type of riser does my bow have?

2. Can I shoot an arrow that is SHORTER than my bow's draw length?
3. Does my arrow rest function as an "overdraw", allowing the use of shorter arrows?
4. What is the minimum safe arrow length I can shoot in my bow?
5. What are the only proper ways to trim a carbon arrow?
6. Can I return arrows which have been trimmed to length?
7. What level of arrow straightness do I need?
8. What is the IBO Standard regarding total arrow weight?
9. What is the minimum arrow weight my bow can safely shoot?
10. Does my state have any specific hunting restrictions on arrow weight?
11. Does the manufacturer of my bow make any specific recommendation regarding arrow weight?
So now you should have a good idea how LONG, how STRAIGHT, and how HEAVY your arrows should be. That's all
we need to know, right? Oh, no! We're just getting warmed-up. Just because your arrow is the right length,
straightness, and weight, doesn't necessarily mean it's the right arrow for your setup. We still have several more issues
to address. So hang in there. If you have any questions at this point, please feel free to email us for help.
Chapter 3 Arrow Spine & Tip Weight
Arrow Spine: The Backbone of the Arrow

If you've ever gone fishing, you probably already understand this concept. Would you take your heavyweight fishing-rod
when you go Bluegill and Perch fishing? Of course not. It's simply too stiff for the job and would perform poorly. A stiff
rod doesn't cast light baits very well, and dragging in small pan fish on a heavyweight rod would be no fun anyway. On
the other hand, you wouldn't dare take your ultra-lite fishing-rod for an afternoon of shark fishing either. The ultra-lite rod
wouldn't be stiff enough to fight such large fish, and it might even break if you hooked a good one. Right? For arrow
selection, the concept is essentially the same - the arrow must have the appropriate strength and stiffness for the task -
not too stiff - not too limber.
The official term is "spine"- as in backbone. Not "spline" - as in gears and sprockets. Arrow spine
refers to the arrow's degree of stiffness - how much the arrow resists being bent. Some arrows are very
stiff, others are very limber. And if you ever intend to achieve serious accuracy with your compound
bow, you'll need to choose an arrow that's just stiff enough - but not too stiff for your particular bow
setup. You may have noticed that most arrows come in different sizes denoted by some kind of
number system: Gold Tip 5575's, Beman 400's, A/C/C 3-60's, Carbon Express 4560's, etc. While each
manufacturer's number system is often different, the important thing to note is that the number on the
arrow specifies the spine (the stiffness) of that particular shaft, and doesn't necessarily denote the exact
draw weight of the bow from which it should be shot. For example, don't assume a Gold Tip 3555 will
only work in bows ranging from 35# to 55# of draw weight. That may or may not be the case. The actual stiffness (static
spine) of the shaft material is only one factor in determining the effective, or dynamic, spine of your finished arrow.
And don't assume spine sizes transfer from one brand to the other. In some brands, higher numbers represent the
stiffest spine sizes. In other brands, lower numbers represent the stiffest. So don't assume if "300" is your spine size in
one brand that it will be the same in the next brand. Each manufacturer has their own system. Be sure to check the
individual manufacturer's charts (more on this in a moment) before you decide which spine size is right for you.
Arrow Spine: Why Does it Matter?

A properly spined arrow is simply safer, and flies better than an improperly spined arrow. To begin, if an arrow is too
weak (underspined) for a particular bow, there is a risk that the arrow could break when shot. The more grossly
underspined the arrow, the higher the risk of breakage. In a few rare
instances, arrow failures have even resulted in serious injuries. If your
arrow breaks upon release, there is a remote possibility that the
remaining half of the arrow could be driven through your hand or arm.
Ouch!!! To avoid the embarrassment of ever needing to explain to an
emergency room doctor how you managed to shoot yourself with your
own bow, we strongly suggest you NEVER shoot an arrow that's underspined for your bow.
But aside from avoiding the freak accidents, choosing a proper arrow spine will give you the best possible arrow flight
and result in dramatically improved accuracy. Most people think an arrow flies just like it looks when at rest - perfectly
straight. Hence the phrase "straight as an arrow". But nothing could be further from the truth. Once fired from a bow, an
arrow immediately begins flexing and oscillating. That's not a defect. Arrows are supposed to flex and bend some. In
fact, with respect to accuracy, an overspined (too stiff) arrow actually flies just as badly as an underspined (too limber)
arrow. So don't choose an overly stiff arrow either, tough guy. Choosing an over- or underspined arrow yields
absolutely no benefit - regardless of what you hunt or how you shoot.
Each arrow bends and flexes in a particular cycle as it leaves the bow (archer's paradox). In slow-motion video it
becomes obvious - especially for finger shooters. An overspined arrow undercycles and leaves the bow with it's tail too
close to the bow's riser usually resulting in serious fletching contact as it passes the arrow rest. An underspined arrow
overcycles and the arrow's tail leaves the bow too far away from the riser with similar results the opposite way. Arrows
fired with a mechanical release often cycle more vertically rather than horizontally, but the business of timing the cycle is
still the same. When the spine is just perfect, the fletchings zip through the rest unimpeded and the arrow flies.....uh,
well.......straight as an arrow. So we have to get the spine right.
What Factors Affect Arrow Spine?
There are three main ingredients we'll need to stir-in when trying to brew up the perfect
arrow spine:
(1) the stiffness of the actual shaft material

(2) the length of the shaft
(3) the tip weight that will be used
But it's not quite as simple as 1-2-3. How stiff an arrow is when it's sitting still on the
workbench, and when it's busy accelerating from 0-180 mph as it's fired from the bow,
are totally different issues. When the arrow is at rest, we refer to it's stiffness
characteristics as static spine. But when that same arrow is in motion, it's stiffness is a
matter of dynamic spine - which adds more ingredients into our consideration pot. So
pay attention. This one will be on the quiz.
STATIC SPINE OF THE SHAFT MATERIAL

.
Let's start with static spine. If you support an arrow shaft at two points a given distance apart, then hang a weight in the
middle of the arrow - the weight will cause the arrow shaft to sag. The shaft's resistance to being bent this way is known
as it's static spine. The actual static spine of the arrow shaft is determined by the elasticity of the materials in the shaft
and the geometry of the shaft. In multi-layered arrows (carbon/aluminium, etc.) the bonding materials also contribute to
the static spine. The inside diameter, the cross-section shape, and the thickness of the material all contribute to the
static spine of the shaft material. However, arrows don't perform under static conditions - like a floor joist or a curtain-
rod. Arrows perform under dynamic conditions, with motion. A hanging weight doesn't really represent how forces are
applied to arrows when they're actually shot, so static spine is really used as only a benchmark for predicting dynamic
spine.
DYNAMIC SPINE OF THE SHAFT

.
Unless your arrow shaft breaks or is altered, it's static spine remains the same. But your arrow's dynamic spine can
change dramatically. The real meat-n-potatoes of arrow performance relies on the arrow's dynamic spine. The dynamic
spine is how the arrow actually bends when shot - and there are many factors which affect the dynamic spine. The static
spine of the shaft is only part of the equation. When you shoot an arrow, the explosive force of the bow compresses the
shaft and the shaft momentarily bends under the strain. Unlike the unwavering characteristics of an arrow's static spine,
the dynamic spine of two identical arrows, shot from two different bows of varying output, could be drastically different.
How's that possible? If your arrow has a perfect amount of dynamic spine when shot from your modern 70# hard-cam
bow - it's stiffness is just right - not too limber - not too stiff. BUT, if you take that same arrow and shoot it out of your
son's 40# youth bow, it will be dramatically too stiff. The arrow will have too much dynamic spine. Likewise, if you shot
your son's arrows in your 70# bow, it's likely the arrows would be dramatically too limber - not enough dynamic spine.
Determining a proper dynamic spine is a bit more complex and requires examination of several contributing factors. So
hang in there. We're almost through.
SHAFT LENGTH AFFECTS ARROW SPINE

An arrow shaft bends, not because it is being pulled down in the middle, but because it is being pushed inward from the
ends. It is being compressed when it's shot. And the longer
the shaft, the more easily a compressive force can bend it. Imagine a brand new pencil. If you put each end of the
pencil between your palms and began compressing the pencil by squeezing your palms together, this would be similar to
the forces that cause an arrow to bend when shot. So, with your standard length pencil, could you push your hands
together hard enough to make the pencil bend? Probably not. A short pencil is surprisingly stiff and resists bending this
way. But if that same pencil were 2 ft long, you could bend it easily by compressing it. Under a compressive load, the
longer pencil had less spine than the short one, even though the shaft material (the wooden pencil) remained the same -
with the same static spine per given length. Again, same concept applies for arrows. Longer arrows have less spine
(more limber), shorter arrows have more (more stiff).
TIP WEIGHT AFFECTS ARROW SPINE

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Every arrow should have a tip. The tip is the business end of the arrow. It could be a simple steel practice point, a razor
sharp hunting broadhead, a small-game judo tip, or a number of other tips designed for a variety of purposes. Each of
these arrow tips is also designed to a specific grain weight. The most popular weights are 75gr, 85gr, 90gr, 100gr, and
125gr. However, some specialty tips can be much lighter or heavier.
OK. Now remember how a bow compresses the arrow shaft? It's not hard to figure out what's pushing in one direction -
the forward movement of the bow's string. That's an easy one. But what force pushes back the other direction? You
can't get that kind of compression if you don't have two opposing forces - one pushing on each end of the shaft, right?
Right! So what pushes on the other end? Oddly enough, it's the arrow's TIP. Of course, the tip doesn't actively do
anything. It's just a weight - hanging out at the end of the shaft. But surely you must remember learning about Newton's
Laws of Motion in school, eh? Remember the one that says "An object at rest tends to stay at rest unless acted upon by
a force"? AH-HA! Well think of it this way. The arrow's tip is the "object at rest", and the forward movement of the string
is the "force". The stationary mass of the arrow resists the forward motion of the string, and since the heavy tip of the
arrow is where most of the arrow's mass is concentrated, that's the area of the arrow that resists the most. So the
resistance of the heavy stationary tip and the forward motion of the string create opposing forces
and.....Viola!....compression.
So, the greater the tip weight, the greater the compression (and flexing) of the the arrow shaft when shot. The lighter the
tip, the lesser the compression (and flexing) of the arrow shaft when shot. See where we're going? You guessed it. A
heavy tip DECREASES an arrow's dynamic spine (makes it act more limber). A lighter tip INCREASES an arrow's
dynamic spine (makes it act more stiff).
This concept is a bit more abstract, so consider a dramatic example to illustrate the concept. Imagine if you screwed a
bowling ball on the end of an arrow and tried to shoot it. Upon firing the bow, the arrow shaft would bend dramatically as
it grudgingly inched forward, trying to get the heavy stationary mass of the bowling ball into motion. The arrow would be
highly compressed between the forward movement of the string and slowly accelerating mass of the bowling ball.
MACHO "BIG-MAN" TIP WEIGHTS
In sections #4-5, we'll discuss the topic of tip weight selection and explore it's effects on arrow mass, front-of-center
balance, loss of shot trajectory, and kinetic energy in greater detail. But for now, it's worth noting that many archers
choose a ridiculously heavy tip weight for their hunting arrows. There's often no logic behind the selection, other than
the macho idea that bigger is better, and the often distorted and misunderstood notion that heavier tips "hit harder". So
don't get too puffed-up bragging about how you "always do better when shootin' them big XXX grain super-ultra-magnum
broadheads". With today's hot new compound bows often pumping out 50, 60, even 70+ ft-lbs of kinetic energy, much of
the "old school" thinking about hefty arrow tip weight is no longer applicable.
BOW OUTPUT AFFECTS DYNAMIC ARROW SPINE

.
If all this talk of spine is becoming a real pain in the neck, don't worry. We have just a couple more details to cover, then
we'll sum up the discussion on arrow spine.
The physical features of the arrow (the shaft's static spine, the shaft length, and the arrow's tip weight) all play a part in
giving the arrow it's spine characteristics. But as we mentioned earlier, the arrows final dynamic spine (how much it will
actually flex when shot) will also depend greatly on the output of the bow. Your draw weight, draw length, cam-type, let-
off percentage, and bow efficiency all contribute to the actual output of the bow. And bows with more powerful outputs
will require stiffer arrows to achieve the proper dynamic spine when shot. Bows with less powerful output will require
more limber shafts.
Fortunately, the engineers have already crunched the numbers for us. In just a few moments we'll take a look at a
sample spine-size selection chart. You won't need to solve any equations or plot any graphs today. But before we go to
the charts, you should understand which attributes affect the output of a bow and the spine requirements of the arrow.
Most arrow manufacturers publish charts which take some, or all, of these bow output factors into account when
recommending a particular arrow spine size.
Less Spine Required More Spine Required

Lighter Draw Weight Heavier Draw Weight
Shorter Draw Length Longer Draw Length
Lighter Tip Weight Heavier Tip Weight
Less Aggressive Cam More Aggressive Cam
More Let-Off % Less Let-Off %
Less Efficient Bow More Efficient Bow
APPLYING SOME COMMON SENSE
As we said, some manufacturers have very complex charts that take many
variables into account. But other manufacturers offer a more simplified chart,
like the one on the left, that just represents an average bow setup. So you
may have to apply a little common sense if your particular bow setup isn't
exactly "average". For example: If you shoot a typical 300 fps compound
bow, with normal 100gr tips, and 60-75% let-off, all you'll need to do is follow
the chart. If your bow is set for 60# and you use 29" arrows, you just follow
the dots on the chart and choose the 200 spine. Easy!
But what if you shoot a very aggressive low let-off speed-bow with an IBO
speed over 330 fps.........say a Bowtech Black Knight or a Mathews Black
Max. In that case, your bow will have more output than an average 60# bow,
so you would need to accommodate by choosing a little stiffer spine like the
300 shaft. So be prepared to use your best judgment, should your bow setup
have some special characteristic that needs extra consideration.
Spine Consistency & Tolerance
One final thought on arrow spine involves manufacturing and materials consistency. If a manufacturer makes sure that
each inch of every arrow has the exact same thickness and composition, every arrow for a given size should have
exactly the same amount of spine. Every arrow should be the same in the front, the middle, and the rear. Every arrow
should resist the same when bent in any direction. And every arrow in a particular set should share that same uniform
consistency and tolerances such that every shaft is exactly alike.
Of course, few carbon arrows can make this particular brag. Some carbon shafts, particularly entry-level carbon shafts,
have some inconsistencies in their spine, both throughout an individual shaft and within an entire set from shaft to shaft.
The differences may be small, but each small variation can affect arrow flight. Not all carbon arrow manufacturers list
their spine tolerance data. Most are content to simply state they have a "consistent spine" and leave it at that.
Much like the issue of straightness, most archers do not have the skill and proficiency to tell the difference - since the
variances may be slight and subtle. But this issue is worth considering if you're truly searching for the ultimate arrow. To
help minimize these inconsistencies, we suggest you choose the best shafts you can afford from a well-known
manufacturer. If your favorite manufacturer does not publish their consistency and tolerance data, contact the arrow
manufacturer for additional specifications.
Step Right Up: Another Sample Arrow Spine Chart
Here is another example of an arrow spine chart, created to help you select an
appropriate arrow spine for your setup. For this example, we have reproduced the
charts from the popular Gold Tip brand of carbon arrows. Gold Tip arrows come in 4
basic spine sizes: 3555, 5575, 7595, and Big Game 100's. Stop! Hold it right there! If
you just got the idea that the "Big Game" size must be the right size for you - because
you hunt big game like deer, elk, moose, bear, etc., un-think that thought now. "Big
Game 100's" is just a model name. They could have called it the 95115 shaft. "Big
Game" only indicates the arrow's spine stiffness, NOT what you're supposed to hunt
with it necessarily.
In the Gold Tip spine sequence, the 3555 is the most limber shaft (and the lightest), and
the Big Game is the stiffest shaft (and heaviest). Study the chart for a moment. Notice
how an increase in draw weight, arrow length, or tip weight all increase the spine
stiffness recommendation. Conversely, decreasing the draw weight, arrow length, or tip
weight will decrease the spine stiffness recommendation.
=3555 =5575 =7595 =Big =3555 =5575 =7595 =Big =3555 =5575 =7595 =Big
Game Game Game
85g 100g 125g

Tips Arrow Length Tips Arrow Length Tips Arrow Length
Draw Draw Draw
Weight 25" 26" 27" 28" 29" 30" 31" 32" Weight 25" 26" 27" 28" 29" 30" 31" 32" Weight 25" 26" 27" 28" 29" 30" 31" 32"
30-35#         30-35#         30-35#        

35-40#         35-40#         35-40#        
40-45#         40-45#         40-45#        
45-50#         45-50#         45-50#        
50-55#         50-55#         50-55#        
55-60#         55-60#         55-60#        
60-65#         60-65#         60-65#        
65-70#         65-70#         65-70#        
70-75#         70-75#         70-75#        
75-80#         75-80#         75-80#        
80-85#         80-85#         80-85#        
85-90#         85-90#         85-90#        
90- 90- 90-
100#         100#         100#        
A FINAL THOUGHT ABOUT ARROW SPINE

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Remember that changing your bow's draw weight or draw length will change the energy output of your bow. If you order
arrows to match your 70# bow, then later decide to turn the bow down to 60#, your arrows will likely be too stiff. Before
you order your new custom arrows, make sure you're comfortable with your bow's current draw length and weight. If
you're a pathological tinkerer, a growing youth archer, or you're "working up" to a heavier draw weight, you may need
multiple arrow sets with more than one spine size to ensure you get the best arrow flight throughout your "transitional
periods".
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Chapter 3 Summary:
1. What is arrow spine?

2. Why is arrow spine important for achieving proper arrow flight?
3. What factors affect arrow spine?
4. What is the difference in static and dynamic arrow spine?
5. What is spine tolerance?
6. When might you NOT take a spine chart's recommendation?
7. Which Gold Tip spine would be most appropriate for your current bow setup?
Chapter 4 Fletching and F.O.C.

Arrow Fletching:
Glued near the rear of most arrows are 3 (sometimes 4) feathers or plastic vanes, arranged in
an equal pattern around the circumference of the shaft. These parabolic-shaped pieces of
material (sometimes collectively called the "fletching") serve to help steer the arrow during
flight. If the tail of the arrow is precisely following the tip during flight, the fletching slices
cleanly through the air without changing the arrow's path. But if the arrow's tail isn't perfectly
following the tip, friction occurs between the air and the fast moving fletch - pushing the fletch
(and the tail of the arrow) back into proper alignment with the arrow's tip. So the fletching helps
to stabilize and correct the arrow's flight. Easy enough!
Of course, all fletching materials aren't created equal either. Arrow fletching is available in a number of different shapes,
colours, types, thicknesses, lengths, etc. And they can be applied in different configurations: straight, offset, or helical
(spiral). So how do we know which ones to pick? Should we go with feathers? Or vanes? Would a bigger fletch do a
better job than small ones? Is one more durable than another? What are the trade-offs? Well, let's start with the easy
ones.
Feathers or Vanes?
Vanes are made of soft flexible plastic and are the popular choice for today's archer. They're inexpensive, easy to apply,
quiet in flight, available in almost any size/colour, and they can be easily fletched in a number of different patterns
(straight - offset - helical). Since vanes are impervious to water, they make an excellent all-weather choice for hunting.
In addition, they're also relatively durable. Vanes can be crumpled and abused (up to a point of course) and they still
pop back into shape - not nearly as delicate as feathers. However, compared to feathers of the same size, vanes are
quite heavy - as much as 3X the weight of a comparable feather. And since vanes have a smooth surface area, they
don't "dig-into" the air as well as the rougher surface of feathers. So all other things being equal, vanes don't stabilize
arrow flight quite as well as feathers.
But feathers have their ups and downs too. Firstly, feathers are rather expensive. Basic 4" feathers can cost up to 4X
as much as comparable vanes. Feathers that are barred, or have intricate patterns/designs, or feathers that have
specialized shapes can be as much as 10X the cost of standard vanes. And feathers must generally be fletched in a
helical (spiral) configuration. Since feathers aren't flexible enough to be manipulated easily like vanes, they usually
come pre-formed in either a right spiral (called right-wing) or left spiral (left-wing). Feathers typically cannot be fletched
in a straight or offset pattern. And of course, feathers don't hold up well to weather or rough-handling. BUT, many
archers swear by feathers for good reason. Feathers are very light. Three 4" Gateway feathers weigh just over 8 grains
- compared to 24 grains for three 4" Duravanes. This means your arrows fly faster with less loss of trajectory
downrange. And when it comes to design, you just can't deny that mother nature knows best. Feathers do a
tremendous job at stabilizing arrow flight - but they're not for everyone or every application.
Think you know which one is best for you? Well hold on just a moment. This is an important decision. There are a few
other factors you should consider before you jump to your conclusion about feathers vs. vanes.
Straight - Offset - Helical?

Another factor that determines the effectiveness of your fletching is the TURN of the fletch. If your fletching is arranged
in a helical (spiral) pattern - like a boat propeller - your arrow will rotate in flight. Much like a football that's thrown with a
perfect spiral, an arrow will fly straighter and be more stable if it rotates in-flight. Aerodynamically, a helical configuration
is clearly a better choice. However, a helical fletch may not always be appropriate or necessary for your particular bow
setup. For example, some arrow rests will not provide enough clearance to allow a helical fletch to pass thru without
contact. In this case, many archers use an offset fletch, where the vanes are still straight, rather than in a spiral pattern,
but they are slightly turned on the shaft to promote some rotation in-flight without compromising fletching clearance. For
very unforgiving arrow rests with limited clearance, or for competition target setups that don't require much stabilization,
the straight fletch may be the best option. Take a look at the diagrams below and the corresponding pro's and con's
associated with each fletching configuration. When you order your arrows, you'll need to select one of these options.
Straight Fletch 4º Right Offset Fletch Right Helical Fletch
Does Not Rotate in Flight Rotates Slightly in Flight Rotates Dramatically in Flight
- Fastest Flying Vane - Provides More Stabilization for Broadheads - Superior Stabilization for Broadheads
Configuration
- Least Amount of Air Resistance - Only Some Air Resistance in Flight - Best Overall Arrow Flight at Long Distance
- Works with Any Arrow Rest - Works with Most Arrow Rests - Increased Overall Accuracy
- Minimal Fletching Clearance - Stable Flight to Moderate Distances - Arrow Corrects Attitude in Flight
Problems
- Less Stable at Long Distances - May Cause Fletching Clearance Issues - Notable Loss of Arrow Velocity
- Provides Less Stabilization for - Some Loss of Arrow Velocity - Fletching Clearance More Problematic
Broadheads
- Best Used in a Well-Tuned Bow (Most Popular Choice)
Right or Left?
If you choose to go with an offset or helical fletch, the arrow will rotate in flight. But which way should it rotate? Right or
left? Feathers, which come in right-wing and left-wing shapes, can make the arrow rotate either direction depending
upon your choice. And vanes can be fletched right or left as well.
An arrow with a right turn will rotate clockwise (as viewed from the nock) during flight. An arrow with a left turn will rotate
counterclockwise. So what's the big difference? With most modern setups........nothing. One is as good as the other.
The only major difference is that left-turn (counterclockwise) arrows tend to impact the target and loosen your tips, while
right-turn (clockwise) arrows tend to impact the target and tighten your tips. Otherwise, it really makes no difference.
Of course, this wasn't always the case. The traditional wisdom is for RH shooters to shoot a right turn fletch and LH
shooters to shoot a left turn fletch. And if you shoot a traditional bow OR you have an old-fashioned flipper or plunger
style rest, this is still good advice for achieving the best vane/feather clearance. But for shooters with modern equipment
and center-shot cutaway risers, if you have to pick one or the other, we suggest you choose a right turn. Or you can flip
a coin. :)
Fletching Size: How Big to Go?

Most vanes and feathers are available in several different sizes. The most common are the 3", 4", and 5", with the 4"
being the industry standard for most applications. However, you may decide a little larger or smaller fletch is better for
you, but there are a few things to consider.
Weight: If you're concerned about your finished arrow weight or your F.O.C. balance (more on this in a moment), it's
worth noting that your choice and size of fletching material will have a significant impact on both of those attributes.
Take a look at the chart below to see how much your fletching choice will add to your finished arrow. Since all of that
weight is going to be concentrated in the rear of the arrow, heavy fletching material means a you'll also need more tip
weight to maintain a good F.O.C. balance.
Three 3" Three 4" Three 5"

Feathers (Gateway) +6.12 grains +8.28 grains +10.9 grains
Vanes (Norway/Duravanes) +18.9 grains +24.0 grains +34.5 grains
Surface Area: In addition to the TURN of your fletching, the second factor that determines how much stabilization you
can expect will be directly related to the total amount of surface area of the fletching material you select. Larger
fletching will have more surface area, small fletching will have less. The more surface area, the more resistance the
fletching will have with the surrounding air and the more effective the fletching will be at correcting the arrow in flight.
Compare the total surface area (both sides) of the standard 3", 4" and 5" fletch.
Three 3" Three 4" Three 5"

Approximate Surface Area 6.42 sq-in 9.64 sq-in 13.23 sq-in
Three 5" vanes will have over twice the surface area of three 3" vanes. So a 5" fletch would arguably be better for
stabilizing the arrow, right? Perhaps. Just remember that archery is all about trade-offs. If you go with a huge fletch,
you'll also have more weight, less FOC, and the larger fletchings may or may not clear your arrow rest properly. A heavy
load of vanes also decreases your arrow spine (though only slightly).
Fletching Choice: Recommendations
First and foremost, your fletching choice should be what yields the best accuracy. So
before you choose your fletching type, it's important to consider how difficult your
arrows will be to stabilize in flight. If you only use your bow for recreational target
shooting with field points or target nibbs, a 3" fletch will probably be sufficient. Field
points are easy to stabilize. But broadheads are another story. If you shoot broadheads
(particularly large fixed-blade broadheads) which often tend to fly erratically, a larger
fletch will be essential to achieving good arrow flight and consistent groups. If you
shoot mechanical broadheads, you can get by with a little less. There probably isn't a
true right and wrong here, as fletching material is essentially a personal choice. But
here is general chart to help you select a reasonable fletching option for your setup.
I use a containment style arrow

I use a shoot-thru style arrow rest: I use a drop-away style arrow rest: Muzzy
Fletching rest with limited clearance:
Whisker Biscuit, Whisper Disc,
TM Hunter, Golden Key Rover, Zero Effect, Trophy Ridge Drop Zone,
Options Bodoodle Zapper, GK Shoot-Out,
Bodoodle Pro-Lite, Quiktune 800,
Quikset Hunter, or similar.
Trophy Taker, QAD Ultimate, Trap Door or
similar.
or similar.
(Suggested)
3" Str. Field Tips or Nibbs 3" R-Hel 3" R-Hel
Field Tips or Nibbs Only Field Tips or Nibbs Only
I'm careful with my equipment. Vanes Only Feathers Feathers
Inclement weather and 4" Str. 4" R-Hel 3" R-Hel
fletching durability isn't really Mechanical B-Heads Mechanical B-Heads Mechanical B-Heads
Vanes Feathers Feathers
an issue.
5" Str. 4" R-Hel 4" R-Hel
Fixed-Blade B-Heads Fixed-Blade B-Heads Fixed-Blade B-Heads
Vanes Feathers Feathers
3" Str. 3" Offset 3" R-Hel

Field Tips or Nibbs Only Field Tips or Nibbs Only Field Tips or Nibbs Only
I'm a little rough on my Vanes Vanes Vanes
equipment, so I need
fletchings that will take some 4" Str. 4" Offset 4" R-Hel
Mechanical B-Heads Mechanical B-Heads Mechanical B-Heads
abuse and hold up in all Vanes Vanes Vanes
weather situations. 5" Str. 5" Offset 4" R-Hel
Fixed-Blade B-Heads Fixed-Blade B-Heads Fixed-Blade B-Heads
Vanes Vanes Vanes
Front of Centre Balance:

If you've ever played a friendly game of darts, you've surely noticed that the dart is designed so that it's heavy in the
front, and light in the back. If the dart were weighted the opposite way, with the tail being heavier than the tip, it would
literally spin around and hit the target tail-first. Obviously the ballistics of a dart and an arrow are a bit different, but the
underlying concept is similar. A projectile's flight is most stable when most of the projectile's mass is positioned Front of
Center (FOC). As such, an arrow should be heavier in the front
than in the back. But how much? Where's the "perfect" balance
point?
This is another hotly debated issue among archery enthusiasts.

Some claim that FOC makes little or no difference, others swear
that FOC has a profound effect on accuracy. Even the industry
experts don't seem to agree, as the ballistic physics for FOC include some rather elastic variables that make finding an
"mathematically optimal" FOC very difficult to declare and prove. To make matters worse, we even see a variation in
how FOC itself is calculated, depending upon which "expert" you ask. So while we have no interest in the fine points of
the debate, we will agree that the tricky issue of FOC is at least worth considering when purchasing a new set of arrows.
With all that said, it is generally believed that an arrow with a high FOC will fly well, but with premature loss of trajectory
(nose-diving). While an arrow with a low FOC will hold it's trajectory better, but it will fly erratically. So again, another
trade-off for you to consider.
While there doesn't seem to be a magic number to aim for, it is generally agreed that the optimal FOC balance for an
arrow is somewhere between 7% and 15%. In the example on the left, the 30" long arrow has balance point that is 3"
forward of the arrow's actual center (15"). So it's FOC is 3/30 or 10% - a reasonable FOC balance.
So when you order your custom arrows, keep FOC in mind. If you choose heavy 5" vanes and an anorexic 50 grain tip,
you'll likely have an FOC that is too low. On the other hand, if you choose 3" lightweight feathers and a jumbo 175 grain
tip, you'll likely have too much FOC. Choose an arrow setup that will give you an FOC balance of roughly 7-15%.
FOC Calculators:
To find the approximate FOC balance of your finished arrow, simply balance your arrow on some kind of fulcrum such
that the arrow sits on it's own without tipping forward or backward. Mark this position on the arrow where it balances
perfectly. Then measure the entire arrow (from the crotch of the nock to the end of the point), divide the arrow length by
2, and make a mark that indicates the exact center of the arrow. Now just measure the distance between your marks. If
you divide the distance between the marks by the total arrow length, then multiply the result by 100, you'll have a
reasonable estimate of your arrow's FOC percentage.
There are also a number of FOC calculators available online.
NOTE: Gold Tip recommends an F.O.C. balance between 8% and 15%.
Chapter 4 Summary:
1. What are the different type of fletching materials?

2. What are the pro's and con's for vanes and feathers?
3. What is the difference in a straight, offset, or helical fletch? Which is better?
4. What size fletchings will provide the best stabilization for my particular setup?
5. What is Front of Center Balance (FOC)?
6. What is the recommended amount of FOC for proper arrow flight?
Chapter 5 Speed & Kinetic Energy
Speed: Oh How We Love It!
Fast cars, fast computers, fast wide receivers, any kind of fast-action......we love it. And when it comes to our
archery equipment, it's no different. Show most guys a brand new bow, and their first question is likely to be "How
fast does it shoot?". Right or wrong, speed is a major consideration for most archers. And it's great to see how
advancements in materials and design technologies have made today's compound bows better, faster, and more
fun to shoot than ever before.
Of course, there will always be a few dissenters in the crowd, those who'll loftily claim they don't care about speed.
But the market trends don't lie. Archery consumers are taking advantage of these innovations, buying high-
performance bows and speed-boosting gadgets by the trainload. And nothing yields such a predictable and
significant increase in speed like a good set of lightweight carbon arrows. So let's examine the pro's and con's to
shooting lightweight arrows. Let's find out where they help, where they hurt, and where they don't really make a
difference.
When all other variables are constant, arrow speed has an inverse relationship with arrow mass. Of course there is a
point of diminishing returns, but as arrow mass increases, arrow speed decreases. As arrow mass decreases, arrow
speed increases. As we learned in Chapter 2, there is a limit to how light you should go, so it is possible to have too
much of a good thing. But the informed archer can greatly improve his bow's performance by upgrading to modern
carbon/graphite arrow designs. How much performance can be gained? We put the issue to the test.
ARROW MASS VS. ARROW VELOCITY TEST
We prepared 9 arrows, ranging from 250 grains up to 650 grains in precisely 50 grain increments. Each arrow was fired
from our test bow (60#/28" Bowtech Patriot) through the chronograph and the results were recorded (table below). Five
trials were conducted for each arrow - to achieve a reliable speed measurement (average). Each arrow was fired from
the same distance, from the same shooter, and without any modifications to the bow's settings during the test. The test
was conducted at our indoor range, where lighting and environmental conditions could be held constant throughout our
test.
Our Test Results - Chronograph (speed) Test

Trial Trial Trial Trial Trial
Average
FPS 1 2 3 4 5
250gr Arrow 4.17 gr/lb. 294 294 295 294 294 294.2 FPS
300gr Arrow 5.00 gr/lb. 274 272 273 273 273 273.0 FPS
350gr Arrow 5.83gr/lb. 256 256 257 255 256 256.0 FPS
400gr Arrow 6.67gr/lb. 242 242 242 243 242 242.2 FPS
450gr Arrow 7.50 gr/lb. 231 231 231 230 231 230.8 FPS
500gr Arrow 8.33 gr/lb. 220 219 220 220 219 219.6 FPS
550gr Arrow 9.17 gr/lb. 211 210 209 210 209 209.8 FPS
600gr Arrow 10.00 gr/lb. 202 201 201 202 202 201.6 FPS
650gr Arrow 10.83 gr/lb. 196 195 195 195 194 195.0 FPS
OK. BUT IS FASTER NECESSARILY BETTER?

Maybe. From a standpoint of accuracy, you may find that lightweight
arrows will yield some surprising benefits. From the moment your arrow
is released from the bow, it begins to lose trajectory. As it succumbs to
the effects of gravity and air resistance, it's flight path (trajectory)
changes and the arrow eventually begins to drop back to earth. Arrows
which fly more quickly hold their trajectory better than slower arrows. So
archers who shoot lighter-faster arrows will have less need to adjust for
distance - since the faster arrows will hold a "flatter" trajectory within a
given distance. In effect, the faster arrow allows you to make more
mistakes in yardage estimation. If you mis-estimate a deer to be 25 yards
away, and it is actually 30 yards away, a fast arrow "misses" it's mark by
a much smaller margin. Look at the trajectory chart on the right from our
Bowtech Patriot experiment. The heavier arrows nosedive much more
quickly than the lighter faster arrows. So whether you're a hunter or
competition 3D shooter, you may find that faster arrows actually add a little forgiveness into your shooting, allowing you
to make an error in yardage estimation without paying such a heavy price.
Hunters may also find that a faster arrow gives game animals less opportunity move out of position. When you fire an
arrow at a game animal, the sound of the bow travels much faster (about 1100 fps) than the arrow. So the game animal
will certainly hear the sound of the bow before the arrow arrives. During that time, the animal has a brief opportunity to
lunge, jump, squat, or otherwise get out of the way. For example, an alarmed deer will often "crouch" in preparation to
jump. This crouching motion makes it appear the deer has attempted to "duck" the arrow, when in fact the deer is just
loading it's muscles to jump and flee. As a result, many bowhunters tend to miss high, shooting the arrow over the
deer's back or impacting above the kill-zone, resulting in an unfortunate wound. Of course, there are several factors that
come into play (the alertness and athleticism of the deer, your distance and angle from the target, the amount of noise
from your bow, etc.) which can affect how quickly a deer responds to the sound of your shot. But one thing is for sure.
The faster your arrow arrives at the target, the less time the deer will have to react. So let's take a look at how quickly an
arrow traverses it's flight path, given a known distance and launch speed.
Approximate Time to Arrow Impact (Seconds)
Distance--
10 Yards 20 Yards 30 Yards 40 Yards 50 yards
->
150 fps 0.203 0.412 0.628 0.849 1.078
175 fps 0.174 0.353 0.538 0.728 0.924
200 fps 0.152 0.309 0.471 0.637 0.808
225 fps 0.135 0.275 0.418 0.566 0.718
250 fps 0.122 0.247 0.377 0.510 0.647
275 fps 0.111 0.225 0.342 0.463 0.588
300 fps 0.102 0.206 0.314 0.425 0.539
325 fps 0.094 0.190 0.290 0.392 0.497
So it seems to be a simple choice. For the best possible performance, we just need to shoot the lightest
arrow possible, right? In most situations, yes. But there's some other things to consider. Most everything in
archery is a trade-off; you have to give up some of this in order to get some of that. The issue of arrow
weight and speed is no different. Shooting an ultra-light arrow will indeed give you eye-popping speed, but at
some expense.
THE NEG: MORE SPEED = MORE NOISE
First, shooting a lightweight arrow may result in a notable increase in noise from your bow. It's to be
expected, as the faster moving string makes a bigger disturbance in the surrounding air. If you shoot a high-
quality bow that's already pretty quiet, the difference may be subtle. But if your bow is already noisy even
when shooting your heavyweight aluminium arrows, shooting ultra-light carbon arrows will guarantee you a
virtual harmonic train-wreck with every shot. String silencers, Limb Savers™, and a good high quality
stabilizer will all help, but be advised that added speed will typically come with some added noise too. If
you're a hunter, noise is an important issue. But if you're a competition or recreational shooter, noise isn't
such a serious issue.
THE BIG NEG: LOSS OF KINETIC ENERGY
How much penetration, or knock-down power, your arrows will have is a matter of kinetic energy. Arrows
which impact the target with more kinetic energy will penetrate the target more deeply than arrows with less
kinetic energy. Kinetic energy is the energy of motion. Any object which has motion has kinetic energy. Total
kinetic energy depends upon two variables: the mass of the object and the speed of the object. And here's
where the trade-off comes in. A bow is generally more efficient, when launching a heavier arrow. So
mathematically, shooting lightweight carbon arrows will cost you a little Kinetic Energy (penetration) at the
target. To illustrate the point, we've converted our Bowtech Patriot experiment from FPS into Kinetic
Energy. Look at the results.
Trial 1 Trial 2 Trial 3 Trial 4 Trial 5 Average

FT-POUNDS
250gr Arrow 47.99 47.99 48.32 47.99 47.99 48.06 ft-lbs
300gr Arrow 50.02 49.30 49.66 49.66 49.66 49.66 ft-lbs
350gr Arrow 50.95 50.95 51.34 50.55 50.95 50.95 ft-lbs
400gr Arrow 52.03 52.03 52.03 52.46 52.03 52.12 ft.lbs
450gr Arrow 53.33 53.33 53.33 52.87 53.33 53.24 ft-lbs
500gr Arrow 53.75 53.26 53.75 53.75 53.26 53.55 ft-lbs
550gr Arrow 54.39 53.87 53.36 53.87 53.36 53.77 ft-lbs
600gr Arrow 54.38 53.84 53.84 54.38 54.38 54.16 ft-lbs
650gr Arrow 55.46 54.90 54.90 54.90 54.33 54.90 ft-lbs
As you can see, the heavier arrows manage more kinetic energy,
or "knock down" power. But to gain just 4-6 ft-lbs of KE, you'll
have to sacrifice perhaps 100 fps of your arrow velocity. Of
course, every bow will not perform exactly as our test bow did.
However, you can expect similar gains and losses in
performance with most modern compound bow models. So this
will be another trade-off to consider when ordering your arrows.
If you're a hunter, penetration is an important issue. But if you're
solely a competition or recreational shooter, don't give
penetration another thought.
This issue of KE is a major hot-topic of debate among bowhunters. Some hunters setup their rigs to produce
maximum speed, some want maximum KE, and others choose something in the middle. Again, there may
not be a right and wrong here. Every hunter seems to have his own opinions on the proper techniques and
ethics of big game bowhunting. So with regards to lightweight hunting arrows and the real-world effect of the
subsequent loss of Kinetic Energy, the following perspective might help.
SOME PERSPECTIVE:
It should be noted that a properly placed arrow - impacting with 50 ft-lbs of KE would easily generate a clean
pass-thru on large game like Whitetail Deer or Elk (as in our experiment with the Patriot above). So with
respect to kinetic energy and big-game hunting, there really is no practical difference between the 300 grain
arrow impacting with 50 ft-lbs of KE and a 600 grain arrow impacting with 54 ft-lbs. Either would make a
clean harvest on big game. So in most cases, the effective difference would really be how far the arrow
sticks in the dirt after passing through the animal.
If you shoot a modern compound bow with at least 55# of draw weight, we suggest you not split too many
hairs over the issue of KE. If you do your job and place the shot properly, you'll have plenty of KE to make a
quick humane harvest. If you shoot mechanical broadheads, or you hunt "thick-skinned" animals like hogs,
bear, or buffalo, some additional Kinetic Energy may be in order.
Chapter 5 Summary:
1. How does arrow mass affect arrow velocity?

2. What are the benefits of shooting lightweight arrows?
3. How can a faster arrow be more "forgiving"?
4. How does arrow velocity affect an animal's ability to avoid an incoming arrow?
5. What are the drawbacks of shooting lightweight arrows?
6. What is Kinetic Energy (KE)?
7. Will your bow generate sufficient KE to harvest big game, even when shooting lightweight carbon arrows?

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Carbon Arrow Selection Guide

Chapter 1 Basics and Measurements

Intro: Arrows Make a Big Difference!

Background: Measuring Draw Length of the Bow

Background: Measuring Draw Length of the Shooter

Unlike a traditional recurve bow that can be drawn back to

More Draw Length Discussion:

1. What are the parts of an arrow?

For New Setups.....

Chapter 2 Arrow Length and Mass

Choosing Your Arrow Length

CLEARANCE FOR BROADHEADS:

ARROW REST POSITION FOR CUTAWAY BOWS:

ARROW LENGTH AFFECTS ARROW SPINE:

To Cut or Not to Cut: Trimming the Arrows

From a pure physics standpoint, arrow straightness certainly does matter.

Arrow Weight: Grains not Grams

Arrow Weight: Is Lighter Better?

IBO STANDARD: Minimum Allowable Arrow Weight - Includes Tip Weight

Arrow Weight: Laws & Warranties

1. What type of riser does my bow have?

Arrow Spine: The Backbone of the Arrow

Arrow Spine: Why Does it Matter?

(1) the stiffness of the actual shaft material

STATIC SPINE OF THE SHAFT MATERIAL

DYNAMIC SPINE OF THE SHAFT

SHAFT LENGTH AFFECTS ARROW SPINE

ends. It is being compressed when it's shot. And the longer

TIP WEIGHT AFFECTS ARROW SPINE

MACHO "BIG-MAN" TIP WEIGHTS

BOW OUTPUT AFFECTS DYNAMIC ARROW SPINE

Less Spine Required More Spine Required

APPLYING SOME COMMON SENSE

Spine Consistency & Tolerance

Step Right Up: Another Sample Arrow Spine Chart

85g 100g 125g

30-35#         30-35#         30-35#        

A FINAL THOUGHT ABOUT ARROW SPINE

1. What is arrow spine?

Chapter 4 Fletching and F.O.C.

Straight - Offset - Helical?

Straight Fletch 4º Right Offset Fletch Right Helical Fletch

Fletching Size: How Big to Go?

Three 3" Three 4" Three 5"

Three 3" Three 4" Three 5"

Fletching Choice: Recommendations

I use a containment style arrow

3" Str. 3" Offset 3" R-Hel

Front of Centre Balance:

This is another hotly debated issue among archery enthusiasts.

There are also a number of FOC calculators available online.

NOTE: Gold Tip recommends an F.O.C. balance between 8% and 15%.

1. What are the different type of fletching materials?

Chapter 5 Speed & Kinetic Energy

Speed: Oh How We Love It!

ARROW MASS VS. ARROW VELOCITY TEST

Our Test Results - Chronograph (speed) Test

OK. BUT IS FASTER NECESSARILY BETTER?

THE NEG: MORE SPEED = MORE NOISE

THE BIG NEG: LOSS OF KINETIC ENERGY