How to Design a Closed-System

TERRARIUM
Terrariums are beautiful interior accents for the places where people live
and work. Their glassy containers are eye-catching and lead viewers into
the jewel-like plants they contain.

They offer a miniature ecosystem—a window into the natural world.

Humans possess biophilia, a natural, inborn love of nature. While today’s
lifestyles may not allow us to be outdoors as much as we might like, in
a small way, terrariums give us a chance to experience nature’s unique
flora. Just as important as a lamp or painting to create a focal point within
a room, terrariums are living sculptures. Plus, they can practically care for
themselves.

Any clear glass or plastic container is suitable to use as a terrarium. Some

examples include fish bowls, canning jars (both large and small), and
antique milk bottles. This, of course, is not an all-inclusive list. The only
really important consideration is that the container not be cloudy or tinted
because this would restrict light and limit plant growth.

TYPES
There are two types of terrariums characterized by the selected container:
open systems and closed systems.

Open-system terrariums use a container with a wide opening such as a

large glass bowl. An open-system terrarium typically needs to be watered
more often than a closed system and has lower humidity levels. One cur-
rent trend is to use succulent plants or cacti. These plants are native to dry,
arid regions and have a longer display period in an open-system terrari-
um. Plants from both lists at the end of this publication can be maintained
in open-system terrariums.

Closed-system terrariums use a closed (or nearly closed) container. A lid-

ded jar similar to the one shown in this publication, or a jar with a narrow
mouth, works well. These containers will sustain the ecosystem necessary
for moisture- and humidity-loving plants. Note that this type of container
does not work well with succulents or cacti—they would quickly rot and
die in this setting.

Closed-system terrariums can be surprisingly easy to maintain once their

ecosystem is established. For that reason, this project outlines a closed-sys-
tem terrarium.
FIND A DISPLAY SITE Avoid placing a terrarium close to a window because
Before purchasing plants and supplies, give thought to solar energy can build heat in the container. This can
where the terrarium will be displayed. It is a good idea literally burn the plants inside.
for it to blend with the interior style. Consider how it can
be shown, whether on a table or a plant stand. LESS IS MORE
Plant-supply departments often carry an array of terrarium
It is best to keep the terrarium in a dedicated space.
supplies. You can also find these materials online.
Limit moving it to varying locations because changes in
light intensity and duration may be detrimental to plant Beyond the container, decorative accessories can give a
health. Find a space that has bright, indirect light. Often, theme to the design. Decorative items can be ceramic,
an eastern exposure with morning sun is good for ter- glass, metal, or plastic; anything impervious to moisture.
rariums. Similarly, a western exposure may work well as They can be a dominant part of the design, or they can
long as afternoon heat is avoided. be subordinate. It is fine to leave them out, keeping the
design natural and unencumbered.

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This example uses heat-treated bark. Do not use bark
intended for outdoor landscapes because it can harbor
pathogens that will introduce disease into the terrarium.
Heat-treated bark for indoor plant use is a nice alternative
to moss or can be used in combination with it for pattern
and textural variety. Similarly, it may be a good idea to
use only one variegated, fancy-leaved plant with other
green plants.

Horticultural-grade charcoal consists of pure carbon

chips, about one-fourth of an inch long. This material is
used to provide a filtering effect to water that has perco-
lated from the soil mix. You can also use aquarium char-
coal, but it may cost a bit more. Only use clean, washed
gravel and sterile soilless potting mix.

CARE AND DISPLAY

When water droplets (condensation) form on the inside
walls or lid of the terrarium, open the lid for about an
hour. This will allow the excess water to evaporate. Con-
tinue this process until you see very little if any conden-
sation. At this point, the terrarium ecosystem has reached
equilibrium and can withstand long periods without any
additional watering—from weeks to years!

One of the goals of terrarium culture is slow growth. This

limits the amount of pruning you will have to do. Air,
moisture, and sunlight will aid in photosynthesis, which
is the production of light energy into carbohydrates. This
is all a terrarium needs to thrive. There is no need to add
fertilizer to the closed system.

It is unusual for a terrarium to have a display life of lon-

ger than a year or two. As plants mature, they may out-
grow the jar. It may become necessary to prune plants or • Moss (undyed sheet moss)
remove them. Take this opportunity to refresh the design • Decorative items (miniatures, shells)
by rearranging existing plants or adding others. This is a • Mist bottle and water
fun and relaxing activity any time of the year! • Scissors or snips
• Newspaper or other paper
PROJECT MATERIALS*
• Container (2-gallon glass jar) *Not all of the listed materials are necessary for every
• Plant selections (Neanthe bella palm, nerve plant, project. Plant supply departments often carry an array
Boston fern ‘Fluffy Ruffles’) of terrarium supplies. You can also find these materials
• Finely chopped, heat-treated bark online.
• Gravel
• Horticultural-grade charcoal
• Potting mix

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STEPS
Water the plants in their original pots a few hours or the day before construction.

Be sure to wash the terrarium container before using it.

Lay down a few layers of newspaper for easy clean-up of your work surface.

Add 1 inch of gravel to the Make a funnel with two or three Next, add about 2 inches of the
bottom of the container. layers of newspaper or other paper. soil mix to the container. Make a
Using the paper funnel, slowly add hole in the soil large enough to
about ¼ inch of charcoal. accommodate the plants’ root balls.

Remove plants from their pots Often, there are multiple plants of You may need to prune a few
and carefully break up the soil the same variety per pot. Carefully leaves or stems if they touch the
at the top and bottom of the root open up the root ball with your sides or lid of the container.
ball. fingers to separate plants into
smaller pieces.

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Place the tallest plants toward the Add the plants and tamp down Now it is time to water the terrarium.
center and the remaining plants the soil around the rootball. Using a mist bottle, mist the interior
around the center. Allow a bit of sides of the glass jar. This not only
space between them, and evaluate provides water to the soil, but it also
the need for additional pruning. helps to wash charcoal dust or other
organic materials from the glass.
You can tell the soil is moistened by
the way its color appears saturated.
Be sure to heavily mist the root ball
area of each plant, but do not fully
saturate the soil. Water can always be
carefully added to the terrarium, but
not drained from it.

Break up large pieces of moss

and add them to the soil surface
in patches. Add chopped bark
to other patches. Finally, add
decorative items.

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To establish the moisture balance within
the terrarium, follow these steps:

1. After finishing the project, leave the

container open for about 24 hours.
This will allow excess water vapor to
escape.
2. Replace the lid for 24 hours.
3. Remove the lid for another 24 hours,
allowing condensation to evaporate.
4. Replace the lid again for another 24
hours.
5. Keep repeating this process until
there is no moisture collecting on the
inside glass of the terrarium. At this
point, the terrarium has reached an
equilibrium and will not need to be
watered for weeks, perhaps months, at
a time.

Foliage or stems resting against any of the interior glass surface can be detrimental
to the health of the leaf, plant, and entire terrarium system. The surface of the leaf
gives off water vapor; if it is near the glass, moisture will be trapped and create an
environment for disease. Similarly, it is best to keep plants from touching each other
to avoid rapid disease spread.

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 Plants (Cacti and Succulents) Plants Suitable for Both Open- and Closed-System Terrariums
Suitable for Open-System
Terrariums African violets (including miniature Norfolk Island pine
African Violets) Orchid (such as miniature
Aeonium
Anthurium (miniature varieties) Phalaenopsis)
Aloe vera
Ardisia Palms
Burro’s tail
Artillery fern Peperomia
Cactus
Baby’s tears Philodendron
Crown of thorns
Bead plant Pilea
Devil’s backbone
Creeping fig Plumosa fern
Echeveria
Croton Pothos
Flaming Katy (Kalanchoe)
Dieffenbachia Purple velvet plant
Hens and chicks
Dracaena Rabbit’s foot fern
Jade plant
Dwarf schefflera Rex begonia
Panda plant
Fern Selaginella
Pencil plant
Flame violet Spider plant
Gold dust Dracaena Strawberry begonia
Ivy Tillandsia
Lipstick plant Venus fly trap
Maidenhair fern Zebra plant
Nerve plant

REFERENCES
Carloftis, J. (2006). Beyond the windowsill. Franklin, TN: Cool Springs Press.

DelPrince, J. (2013). Interior plantscaping: Principles and practices. Clifton Park, NY: Delmar.

FTD Fresh. (2014). Twenty popular types of succulents. Retrieved from https://www.ftd.com/blog/share/types-of-succulents

Hessayon, D. (1998). The house plant expert. London: Transworld Book.

Martin, T. (2009). The new terrarium. New York, NY: Clarkson Potter.

Pleasant, B. (2005). The complete houseplant survival manual. North Adams, MA: Storey.

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The information given here is for educational purposes only. References to commercial products, trade names, or suppliers are made with the understanding
that no endorsement is implied and that no discrimination against other products or suppliers is intended.

Publication 3253 (POD-08-21)

By James M. DelPrince, PhD, Associate Extension Professor, and Gary Bachman, PhD, Extension/Research Professor, Coastal Research and Extension
Center.

Copyright 2022 by Mississippi State University. All rights reserved. This publication may be copied and distributed without alteration for nonprofit educational purposes
provided that credit is given to the Mississippi State University Extension Service.

Produced by Agricultural Communications.

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Extension Service of Mississippi State University, cooperating with U.S. Department of Agriculture. Published in furtherance of Acts of Congress, May 8 and
June 30, 1914. STEVE MARTIN, Interim Director