Inline8 Build Guide
Inline8 Build Guide
of
2
Inline 8 Circuit
hacked
together
and
PCB
layout
by:
EffDub
Design
-
2012
-
www.forrestwhitesides.com
The
Inline
8
is,
in
a
nutshell,
a
stripped-‐down
reworking
of
the
old
classic
Marshall
Guv’nor*
distortion
pedal
that
was
a
hot
item
in
the
1980s.
The
main
difference
is
that
instead
of
the
three-‐band
tonestack
in
the
Guv’nor*,
the
Inline
8
has
been
reduced
to
a
very
simplistic
single
tone
control
that
is
used
to
tame
the
excessive
highs
that
are
present
in
many
high-‐gain
circuits.
The
overall
gain
stages
retain
the
same
basic
topology,
but
some
values
were
changed
to
accommodate
the
wildly
different
tone
control.
The
stock
clipping
diodes
(1N914)
are
also
different
from
the
Guv’nor*
(LEDs),
giving
a
more
“hair
metal”
sound.
Perhaps
the
most
visually
striking
difference
is
the
use
of
an
SIP
(single
inline
package)
op
amp,
as
opposed
to
the
now
more
common
DIP
(dual
inline
package)
op
amp.
The
decision
to
go
with
SIP
over
DIP
was
purely
cosmetic,
but
it
does
lend
itself
to
a
cool
car-‐related
name
(“Inline
8”).
This
circuit
bears
some
resemblance
to
a
few
current-‐production
pedals,
but
it
is
not
a
direct
clone
of
any
given
product.
And
all
of
them,
most
especially
this
one,
owe
a
tip
‘o
the
hat
to
Marshall.
*
Brand
and
product
names
are
used
for
reference
only.
No
affiliation
of
any
kind
regarding
this
project
with
any
commercial
brand,
product,
or
company
is
either
expressed
or
implied.
R1
1K
C1
3.3nF
D1
1N914
R2
1M
C2
47nF
D2
1N914
R3
1M
C3
220nF
D5
1N4001
R4
1K
C4
47nF
IC1
NJM4558L
(SIP)
R5
10K
C5
220pF
V1
-‐
Drive
A100K
R6
820K
C6
10µF
V2
-‐
Tone
B5K
R7
10K
C7
10nF
V3
-‐
Level
A100K
R8
1K
C8
100nF
R9
4K7
C9
47µF
R10
22K
C10
47µF
R11
22K
Notes
•
There
is
no
D3
or
D4.
This
is
a
mistake
on
the
silkscreen.
My
bad.
•
Pad
“LED”
connects
to
the
positive
lead
of
the
bypass
status
LED
in
the
pedal.
•
R9
is
a
current-‐limiting
resistor.
You
may
omit
it
if
you
plan
to
wire
the
LED
completely
off-‐board.
2
of
2
Tweaks
and
Modifications
Tone
Control:
You
can
adjust
the
frequency
roll-‐off
by
changing
the
values
of
C8/R8.
It’s
dialed
in
for
a
broad
range
of
gear
as
is,
but
you
may
find
that
small
changes
will
suit
your
setup
better.
It
may
be
a
good
idea
to
socket
C8
and
try
several
values.
C1
shaves
off
highs
before
the
signal
is
amplified
by
the
circuit.
Higher
values
=
more
cut,
up
to
a
point
where
you
start
to
cut
mids
as
well
and
it
gets
“woofy”.
C4
is
also
a
major
tone-‐shaping
point.
If
you
find
the
stock
setup
to
be
a
bit
thin,
try
increasing
C4
to
100nF.
The
stock
cap
on
the
Guv’nor
was
220nF.
Diode
Switch:
A
nice
easy
mod
is
to
use
a
toggle
switch
(DPDT)
to
swap
between
different
types
of
clipping
diodes
(D1/D2
on
the
layout/schematic).
Any
diode
will
work,
just
be
sure
to
observe
the
proper
orientation.
Generally,
the
lower
the
forward
voltage,
the
more
fuzz/clipping
there
will
be,
but
there
is
also
less
overall
output.
Instead
of
a
toggle
switch,
you
could
use
a
rotary
switch
for
many
different
diode
options.
Gain
Mods:
You
may
want
more
or
less
gain
(dirt)
from
this
circuit.
There
are
a
few
key
components
that
set
the
gain.
In
the
first
stage
(IC1a),
try
adjusting
the
value
of
C3.
In
the
second
stage
(IC1b),
adjust
R6.
You
could
even
replace
R6
with
a
1M
pot
to
add
a
second-‐stage
gain
control.