WEEK 3: POWER TRAIN:

CLUTCH SYSTEM
I. INTRODUCTION

In a vehicle, the mechanism that transmits power developed by the engine to the
wheels and/or track and accessory equipment is called the power train. In a simple
application, a set of gears or chain and sprocket could perform this task. However
automotive and construction equipment are not designed for such simple operating
condition. They are designed to provide pulling power, to move at high speeds, to
travel in reverse as well as forward, and to operate rough terrain as well as smooth
roads. To meet these varying condition, vehicle power trains are equipped with a
variety of components. One of the components is clutch.

A Clutch is a machine member used to connect the driving shaft to a driven shaft, so
that the driven shaft may be started or stopped at will, without stopping the driving
shaft. A clutch thus provides an interruptible connection between two rotating shafts.

II. PRE-COMPETENCY CHECKLIST (FORMATIVE ASSESSMENT/DIAGNOSTIC)

Answer the question below.

1. What is power train?

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2. What are the component parts of power train?

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III. LEARNING RESOURCES

 https://www.kia.com/ph/discover-kia/ask/what-is-a-powertrain.
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bod7H3fzrs
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=devo3kdSPQY
 https://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowledgebase/article

IV. EXPLORE (TASKS/ACTIVITIES) REFER TO YOUR SYLLABUS

 POWER TRAIN
A powertrain is an assembly of every component that pushes your vehicle
forward. Your car's powertrain creates power from the engine and delivers it to
the wheels on the ground. The key components of a powertrain include an
engine, transmission, driveshaft, axles, and differential.

PARTS OF POWER TRAIN

1. Engine
 Automotive engine is an internal combustion engine. Internal means inside
and combustion means burning. Power is produced by burning a mixture of air
and fuel mixture. The engine is the heart of your car. It is a complex machine
built to convert heat from burning gas into the force that turns the road wheels.
2. Transmission
 Provides the torque needed to move the vehicle under the variety of road and
road condition.
 It can be shifted into reverse so the vehicle can move backward.
 It can be shifted into neutral for starting the engine and running it without
turning the drive wheels.
3. Drive shaft
 Is a shaft that transmits mechanical power from transmission to differential
4. Differential
 Is a set of gears that transmits engine power to the wheels, while allowing
them to turn at different speed.
5. Axle
 Is a rod or shaft that rotates the wheels and supports the car's weight. Axles
are essential components of any vehicle. Since axles conduct the power that
turns the wheels, every vehicle needs axles in order to operate properly.
6. Wheels
 A simple machine consisting of a circular frame with spokes that can rotate on
a shaft or axle. It has a tire and rim and hubcap; used to propel the car.
 AUTOMOTIVE CLUTCHES
An automotive clutch is used to connect and disconnect the engine and manual
transmission or transaxle. The clutch is located between the back of the engine and
the front of the transmission.
With a few exceptions, the clutches common to the Naval Construction Force
(NCF) equipment are the single, double, and multiple-disc types. The clutch that
you will encounter the most is the single-disc type (A). The double-disc clutch is
substantially the same as the single-disc, except that another driven disc and an
intermediate driving plate are added. This clutch is used in heavy-duty vehicles
and construction equipment. The multiple-disc clutch is used in the automatic
transmission and for the steering clutch used in tracked equipment.

Single disk clutch (A)

The operating principles, component functions, and maintenance requirements are
essentially the same for each of the three clutches mentioned. This being the case,
the single-disc clutch will be used to acquaint you with the fundamentals of the
clutch.

CLUTCH CONSTRUCTION

The clutch is the first drive train component powered by the engine crankshaft. The
clutch lets the driver control power flow between the engine and the transmission or
transaxle. Before understanding the operation of a clutch, you must first become
familiar with the parts and their functions. This information is very useful when
learning to diagnose and repair the clutch assembly.

A. Clutch Release Mechanism

A clutch release mechanism allows the operator to operate the clutch. Generally, it
consists of the clutch pedal assembly, a mechanical linkage, cable, or hydraulic
circuit, and the clutch fork. Some manufacturers include the release bearing as part
of the clutch release mechanism.
1. Manual

a. Linkage
A clutch linkage mechanism uses levers and rods to transfer motion from the
clutch pedal to fork. One configuration is shown in (B). When the pedal is pressed
a pushrod shove on the bell crank and the bell crank reverses the forward
movement of the clutch pedal. The other end of the bell crank is connected to the
release rod. The release rod transfer bell crank movement to the clutch fork. It
also provides a method of adjustment for the clutch.

b. Cable
Clutch cable mechanism uses a steel cable
Inside a flexible housing to transfer pedal
movement to the clutch fork. As shown
in Figure C, the cable is usually fastened to the
upper end of the clutch pedal, with the other
end of the cable connecting to the clutch fork.
The cable housing is mounted in a stationary
position. This allows the cable to slide inside
the housing whenever the clutch pedal is moved.
One end of the clutch cable housing has a
threaded sleeve for clutch adjustment.

Clutch linkage (B)

2. Hydraulic
A hydraulic clutch release mechanism uses a simple hydraulic circuit to transfer
clutch pedal action to the clutch fork (Figure D). It has three basic parts—master
cylinder, hydraulic lines, and a slave cylinder. Movement of the clutch pedal
creates hydraulic pressure in the master cylinder, which actuates the slave
cylinder. The slave cylinder then moves the clutch fork.
 Figure C – Clutch Cable Figure D – Hydraulic Clutch

a. Slave Cylinder with Clutch Master Cylinder

The master cylinder is the controlling cylinder that develops the hydraulic
pressure. The slave cylinder is the operating cylinder that is actuated by the
pressure created by the master cylinder.

B. Clutch Fork
The clutch fork, also called a clutch arm or release arm, transfers motion from the
release mechanism to the release bearing and pressure plate. The clutch fork sticks
through a square hole in the bell housing and mounts on a pivot. When the clutch
fork is moved by the release mechanism, it pries on the release bearing to
disengage the clutch.
A rubber boot fits over the clutch fork. This boot is designed to keep road dirt, rocks,
oil, water, and other debris from entering the clutch housing.

C. Clutch Housing
The clutch housing is also called the bell housing. It bolts to the rear of the engine,
enclosing the clutch assembly, with the manual transmission bolted to the back of
the housing. The lower front of the housing has a metal cover that can be removed
for fly- wheel ring gear inspection or when the engine must be separated from the
clutch assembly. A hole is provided in the side of the housing for the clutch fork. It
can be made of aluminum, magnesium, or cast iron.
D. Release Bearing
The release bearing, also called the throw-out bearing, is a ball bearing and collar
assembly. It reduces friction between the pressure plate levers and the release
fork. The release bearing is a sealed unit pack with a lubricant. It slides on a hub
sleeve extending out from the front of the manual transmission or transaxle and is
moved by either hydraulic or manual pressure.

a. Hydraulic Type
The hydraulic release bearing eliminates the stock mechanical release bearing
linkage and slave cylinder. The release bearing mounts on the transmission face or
slips over the input shaft of the transmission. When the clutch pedal is pressed, the
bearing face presses against the pressure plate to disengage the clutch.

b. Manual Type
The release bearing snaps over the end of the clutch fork. Small spring clips hold
the bearing on the fork. Then fork movement in either direction slides the release
bearing along the transmission hub sleeve.

E. Pressure Plate
The pressure plate is a spring-loaded device that can either engage or disengage
the clutch disc and the flywheel. It bolts to the flywheel. The clutch disc fits between
the flywheel and the pressure plate. There are two types of pressure plates—the coil
spring type and the diaphragm type.

a. Coil Spring Pressure Plate

The coil spring pressure plate uses small coil springs similar to valve springs
(Figure E). The face of the pressure plate is a large, flat ring that contacts the
clutch disc during clutch engagement. The back side of the pressure plate has
pockets for the coil springs and brackets for hinging the release levers. During
clutch action, the pressure plate moves back and forth inside the clutch cover.

The release levers are hinged inside the pressure plate to pry on and move
the pressure plate face away from the clutch disc and flywheel. Small clip-type
springs fit around the release levers to keep them rattling when fully released.
The pressure plate cover fits over the springs, the release levers, and the
pressure plate face. Its main purpose is to hold the assembly together. Holes
around the outer edge of the cover are for bolting the pressure plate to the
flywheel.
 Coil spring pressure plate (Figure E)

b. Diaphragm Pressure Plate

The diaphragm pressure plate (Figure F) uses a single diaphragm spring
instead of coil springs. The diaphragm spring is a large, round disc of spring
steel. The spring is bent or dished and has pie-shaped segments running from
the outer edge to the center. The diaphragm spring is mounted in the pressure
plate with the outer edge touching the back of the pressure plate face. The outer
rim of the diaphragm is secured to the pressure plate and is pivoted on rings
approximately 1 inch from the outer edge.

Application of pressure at the inner section of the diaphragm will cause the outer rim
to move away from the flywheel and draw the pressure plate away from the clutch
disc, disengaging the clutch.

Figure F — Diaphragm pressure plate.

F. Clutch Disc
a. Wet Type
A “wet” clutch is immersed in a cooling lubricating fluid, which also keeps the
surfaces clean and gives smoother performance and longer life. Wet clutches,
however, tend to lose some energy to the liquid. Since the surfaces of a wet
clutch can be slippery, stacking multiple clutch discs can compensate for the
lower coefficient of friction and so eliminate slippage under power when fully
engaged.
Wet clutches are designed to provide a long, service-free life. They often last
the entire life of the machine they are installed on. If you must provide service
to a wet clutch, refer to the manufacturer’s service manual for specific details.

b. Dry Type
The clutch disc, also called friction lining, is a “dry” clutch and consists of a
splined hub and a round metal plate covered with friction material (lining). The
splines in the center of the clutch disc mesh with the splines on the input shaft of
the manual transmission. This makes the input shaft and disc turn together.
However, the disc is free to slide back and forth on the shaft.
Clutch disc torsion springs, also termed damping springs, absorb some of the
vibration and shock produced by clutch engagement. They are small coil
springs located between the clutch disc splined hub and the friction disc
assembly. When the clutch is engaged, the pressure plate jams the stationary
disc against the spinning flywheel. The torsion springs compress and soften as
the disc first begins to turn with the flywheel.
Clutch disc facing springs, also called the cushioning springs, are flat metal
springs located under the friction lining of the disc. These springs have a slight
wave or curve, allowing the lining to flex inward slightly during initial
engagement. This also allows for smooth engagement. The clutch disc friction
material, also called disc lining or facing, is made of heat-resistant asbestos,
cotton fibers, and copper wires woven or molded together. Grooves are used
to bond the friction material to aid cooling and release of the clutch disc. Rivets
are used to bond the friction material to both sides of the metal body of the
disc.

G. Flywheel

The flywheel is the mounting surface for the clutch (Figure G).The pressure plate
bolts to flywheel face. The clutch disc is clamped and held against the flywheel by the
spring action of the pressure plate. The face of the flywheel is precision machined to
a smooth surface. The face of the flywheel touches the clutch disc is made of iron.
Even if the flywheel were aluminum, the face is iron because it wears well and
dissipates heat better.
 Flywheel and Pilot bearing (Figure G)

H. Pilot Bearing

The pilot bearing or bushing is pressed into the end of the crankshaft to support the
end of the transmission input shaft (Figure G). The pilot bearing is a solid bronze
bushing, but it also may be a roller or ball bearing.
The end of the transmission input shaft has a small journal machined on its end.
This journal slides inside the pilot bearing. The pilot bearing prevents the
transmission shaft and clutch disc from wobbling up and down when the clutch is
released. It also assists the input shaft center the disc on the flywheel.
 CLUTCH OPERATION

When the operator presses the clutch pedal, the clutch release mechanism pulls
or pushes on the clutch release lever or fork (Figure H). The fork moves the
release bearing into the center of the pressure plate, causing the pressure plate
to pull away from the clutch disc releasing the disc from the flywheel. The engine
crankshaft can then turn without turning the clutch disc and transmission input
shaft.

Clutch operation (Figure H)

When the operator releases the clutch pedal, spring pressure inside the pressure
plate pushes forward on the clutch disc. This action locks the flywheel, the clutch
disc, the pressure plate, and the transmission input shaft together. The engine
again rotates the transmission input shaft, the transmission gears, the drive train,
and the wheels of the vehicle.

CLUTCH START SWITCH

Many of the newer vehicles incorporate a clutch start switch into the starting system.
The clutch start switch is mounted on the clutch pedal assembly. The clutch start
switch prevents the engine from cranking unless the clutch pedal is depressed fully.
This serves as a safety device that keeps the engine from possibly starting while in
gear.
Unless the switch is closed (clutch pedal depressed), the switch prevents current
from reaching the starter solenoid. With the transmission in neutral, the clutch start
switch is bypassed so the engine will crank and start.

CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT
Clutch adjustments are made to compensate for wear of the clutch disc lining and
linkage between the clutch pedal and the clutch release lever. This involves setting
the correct amount of free play in the release mechanism. Too much free play
causes the clutch to drag during clutch disengagement. Too little free play causes
clutch slippage. It is important for you to know how to adjust the three types of clutch
release mechanisms.
a. Clutch Linkage Adjustment
Mechanical clutch linkage is adjusted at the release rod going to the release fork
(Figure ). One end of the release rod is threaded. The effective length of the rod can
be increased to raise the clutch pedal (decrease free travel). It can also be shortened
to lower the clutch pedal (increase free travel). To change the clutch adjustment,
loosen the release rod nuts. Turn the release rod nuts on the threaded rod until you
have reached the desired free pedal travel.

b. Pressure Plate Adjustment

When a new pressure plate is installed, do not forget to check the plate for proper
adjustments. These adjustments will ensure proper operation of the pressure
plate. The first adjustment ensures proper movement of the pressure plate in
relation to the cover. With the use of a straightedge and a scale as shown in
Figure I, begin turning the adjusting screws until you obtain the proper clearance
between the straight-edge and the plate as shown. For exact measurements,

refer to the manufacturer’s service manual.

Pressure plate Pressure plate

adjustment release lever adjustment
(Figure I) (Figure J)

The second adjustment positions the release levers and allows the release bearing
to contact the levers simultaneously while maintaining adequate clearance of the
levers and disc or pressure plate cover. This adjustment is known as finger height.
To adjust the pressure plate, place the assembly on a flat surface and measure the
height of the levers, as shown in Figure J. Adjust it by loosening the locknut and
turning. After the proper height has been set, make sure the locknuts are locked
and staked with a punch to keep them from coming loose during operations. Exact
release lever height can be found in the manufacturer’s service manual.
c. Clutch Cable Adjustment
Like the mechanical linkage, a clutch cable adjustment may be required to maintain
the correct pedal height and free travel. Typically the clutch cable will have an
adjusting nut. When the nut is turned, the length of the cable housing increases or
decreases. To increase clutch pedal free travel, turn the clutch cable housing nut to
shorten the housing, and, to decrease clutch pedal free travel, turn the nut to
lengthen the housing.

d. Hydraulic Clutch
The hydraulically operated clutch is adjusted by changing the length of the
slave cylinder pushrod. To adjust a hydraulic clutch, simply turn the nut or
nuts on the pushrod as needed.

NOTE
When a clutch adjustment is made, refer to the manufacturer's service manual for
the correct method of adjustment and clearance. If no manuals are available, an
adjustment that allows 1 1/2 inches of clutch pedal free travel will allow adequate
clutch operation until the vehicle reaches the shop and manuals are available.

e. Clutch Troubleshooting
An automotive clutch normally provides dependable service for thousands of
miles. However, stop and go traffic will wear out a clutch quicker than highway
driving. Every time a clutch is engaged, the clutch disc and other components are
subjected to considerable heat, friction, and wear.
Operator abuse commonly causes premature clutch troubles. For instance, "riding
the clutch," resting your foot on the clutch pedal while driving, and other driving
errors can cause early clutch failure.
When a vehicle enters the shop for clutch troubles, you should test drive the
vehicle. While the vehicle is being test driven, you should check the action of the
clutch pedal, listen for unusual noises, and feel for clutch pedal vibrations.

Gather as much information as you can on the operation of the clutch. Use this
information, your knowledge of clutch principles, and a service manual
troubleshooting chart to determine which components are faulty.
There are five types of clutch problems—slipping, grabbing, dragging, abnormal
noises, and vibration. It is important to know the symptoms produced by these
problems and the parts that might be causing them.
1. Slipping
Slipping occurs when the driven disc fails to rotate at the same speed as the
driving members when the clutch is fully engaged. This condition results whenever
the clutch pressure plate fails to hold the disc tight against the face of the flywheel.
If clutch slippage is severe, the engine speed will rise rapidly on acceleration while
the vehicle gradually increases in speed. Slight but continuous slippage may go
unnoticed until the clutch facings are ruined by excessive temperature caused by
friction.
Normal wear of the clutch lining causes the free travel of the clutch linkage to
decrease, creating the need for adjustment. Improper clutch adjustment can cause
slippage by keeping the release bearing in contact with the pressure plate in the
released position. Even with your foot off the pedal, the release mechanism will act
on the clutch fork and release bearing.
Some clutch linkages are designed to allow only enough adjustment to
compensate for the lining to wear close to the rivet heads. This prevents damage
to the flywheel and pressure plate by the rivets wearing grooves in their smooth
surfaces.
Other linkages will allow for adjustment after the disc is worn out. When in doubt
whether the disc is worn excessively, remove the inspection cover on the clutch
housing and visually inspect the disc. Binding linkage prevents the pressure plate
from exerting its full pressure against the disc, allowing it to slip. Inspect the release
mechanism for rusted, bent, misaligned, sticking, or damaged components. Wiggle
the release fork to check for free play. These problems result in slippage.
A broken motor mount (engine mount) can cause clutch slippage by allowing the
engine to move, binding the clutch linkage. Under load, the engine can lift up in the
engine compartment, shifting the clutch linkage and pushing on the release fork.
Grease and oil on the disc will also cause slippage. When this occurs, locate and
stop any leakage, thoroughly clean the clutch components, and replace the clutch
disc. This is the only remedy.
If clutch slippage is NOT caused by a problem with the clutch release mechanism,
then the trouble is normally inside the clutch. You have to remove the transmission
and clutch components for further inspection. Internal clutch problems, such as
weak springs and bent or improperly adjusted release levers, will prevent the
pressure plate from applying even pressure. This condition allows the disc to slip.
To test the clutch for slippage, set the emergency brake and start the engine. Place
the transmission or transaxle in high gear. Then try to drive the vehicle forward by
slowly releasing the clutch pedal. A clutch in good condition should lock up and
immediately kill the engine. A badly slipping clutch may allow the engine to run,
even with the clutch pedal fully released. Partial clutch slippage could let the engine
run momentarily before stalling.
 NOTE
Never let a clutch slip for more than a second or two. The extreme heat
generated by slippage will damage the flywheel and pressure plate faces.

2. Grabbing
A grabbing or chattering clutch will produce a very severe vibration or jerking
motion when the vehicle is accelerated from a standstill. Even when the operator
slowly releases the clutch pedal, it will seem like the clutch pedal is being pumped
rapidly up and down. A loud bang or chattering may be heard as the vehicle body
vibrates.
Clutch grabbing and chatter is caused by problems with components inside the
clutch housing (friction disc, flywheel, or pressure plate). Other reasons for a
grabbing clutch could be oil or grease on the disc facings, glazing, or loose disc
facings. Broken parts in the clutch, such as broken disc facings, broken facing
springs, or a broken pressure plate, will also cause grabbing.
There are several things outside of the clutch that will cause a clutch to grab or
chatter when it is being engaged. Loose spring shackles or U-bolts, loose
transmission mounts, and worn engine mounts are among the items to be checked.
If the clutch linkage binds, it may release suddenly to throw the clutch into quick
engagement, resulting in a heavy jerk. However, if all these items are checked and
found to be in good condition, the trouble is inside the clutch itself and will have to
be removed for repair.

3. Dragging
A dragging clutch will make the transmission or transaxle grind when trying to
engage or shift gears. This condition results when the clutch disc does not
completely disengage from the flywheel or pressure plate when the clutch pedal is
depressed. As a result, the clutch disc tends to continue turning with the engine and
attempts to drive the transmission.
The most common cause of a dragging clutch is too much clutch pedal free travel.
With excessive free travel, the pressure plate will not fully release when the clutch
pedal is pushed to the floor. Always check the clutch adjustments first. If
adjustment of the linkage does not correct the trouble, the problem is in the clutch,
which must be removed for repair.
On the inside of the clutch housing, you will generally find a warped disc or
pressure plate, oil or grease on the friction surface, rusted or damaged
transmission input shaft, or improper adjustment of the pressure plate release
levers causing the problem.
4. Abnormal Noises
Faulty clutch parts can make various noises. When an operator reports that a clutch
is making noise, find out when the noise is heard. Does the sound occur when the
pedal is moved, when in neutral, when in gear, or when the pedal is held to the
floor? This will assist you in determining which parts are producing these noises.
An operator reports hearing a scraping, clunking, or squeaking sound when the
clutch pedal is moved up or down. This is a good sign of a worn or unlubricated
clutch release mechanism. With the engine off, pump the pedal and listen for the
sound. Once you locate the source of the sound, you should clean, lubricate, or
replace the parts as required.
Sounds produced from the clutch when the clutch is initially engaged are generally
due to friction disc problems, such as a worn clutch disc facing, which causes a
metal-to- metal grinding sound. A rattling or a knocking sound may be produced by
weak or broken clutch disc torsion springs. These sounds indicate problems that
require the removal of the transmission and clutch assembly for repair.
If clutch noises are noticeable when the clutch is disengaged, the trouble is most
likely the clutch release bearing. The bearing is probably either worn or binding, or,
in some cases, is losing its lubricant. Most clutch release bearings are factory
lubricated; however, on some larger trucks and construction equipment, the
bearing requires periodic lubrication. A worn pilot bearing may also produce noises
when the clutch is disengaged. The worn pilot bearing can let the transmission
input shaft and clutch disc vibrate up and down, causing an unusual noise.
Sounds heard in neutral, which disappear when the clutch pedal is pushed, are
caused by problems inside the transmission. Many of these sounds are due to
worn bearings. However, always refer to the troubleshooting chart in the
manufacturer's manual.

5. Pedal Pulsation
A pulsating clutch pedal is caused by the runout (wobble or vibration) of one of
the rotating members of the clutch assembly. A series of slight movements can
be felt on the clutch pedal. These pulsations are noticeable when light foot
pressure is applied. This is an indication of trouble that could result in serious
damage if not corrected immediately. There are several conditions that can
cause these pulsations. One possible cause is misalignment of the transmission
and engine.
If the transmission and engine are not in line, detach the transmission and remove
the clutch assembly. Check the clutch housing alignment with the engine and
crankshaft. At the same time, check the flywheel for runout, since a bent flywheel or
crankshaft flange will produce clutch pedal pulsation. If the flywheel does not seat
on the crankshaft flange, remove the flywheel. After cleaning the crankshaft flange
and flywheel, replace the flywheel, making sure a positive seat is obtained between
the flywheel and the flange. If the flange is bent, the crankshaft must be replaced.
Other causes of clutch pedal pulsation include bent or maladjusted pressure plate
release levers, a warped pressure plate, or a warped clutch disc. If either the clutch
disc or pressure plate is warped, they must be replaced.

f. Clutch Overhaul
When adjustment or repair of the linkage fails to remedy problems with the clutch,
you must remove the clutch for inspection. Discard any faulty parts and replace
them with new or rebuilt components. If replacement parts are not readily
available, a decision to use the old components should be based on the
manufacturer’s and the maintenance supervisor’s recommendations.
Transmission or transaxle removal is required to service the clutch. Always follow
the detailed directions in the service manual. To remove the clutch in a rear-wheel
drive vehicle, remove the drive shaft, the clutch fork, the clutch release
mechanism, and the transmission. With a front-wheel drive vehicle, the axle shafts
(drive axles), the transaxle, and, in some cases, the engine must be removed for
clutch repairs.

WARNING
When the transmission or transaxle is removed, support the weight of the engine.
Never let the engine, the transmission, or the transaxle be unsupported. The
transmission input shaft, clutch fork, engine mounts, and other associated parts
could be damaged.
After removal of the transmission or transaxle bolts, remove the clutch housing from
the rear of the engine. Support the housing as you remove the last bolt. Be careful
not to drop the clutch housing as you pull it away from the dowel pins.

Using a hammer and a center punch, mark the pressure plate and flywheel. You will
need these marks when reinstalling the same pressure plate to assure correct
balancing of the clutch.

With the clutch removed, clean and inspect all components for wear and damage.
After cleaning, inspect the flywheel and pressure plate for signs of unusual wear,
such as scoring or cracks. Use a straightedge to check for war page of the
pressure plate. Using a dial indicator, measure the run out of the flywheel. The
pressure plate release levers should show very limited or no signs of wear from
contact with the release bearing. If you note excessive wear, cracks, or warping on
the flywheel and/or pressure plate, you should replace the assembly. This is also a
good time to inspect the ring gear teeth on the flywheel. If they are worn or chipped,
install a new ring gear.
 WARNING
A clutch disc contains asbestos—a cancer-causing substance. Be careful how
you clean the parts of the clutch. Avoid using compressed air to blow clutch dust
from the parts.
While inspecting the flywheel, you should check the pilot bearing in the end of the
crankshaft. A worn pilot bearing will allow the transmission input shaft and clutch
disc to wobble up and down. Using a telescoping gauge and a micrometer,
measure the amount of wear in the bushing. For wear measurements of the pilot
bearing, refer to the service manual. If a roller bearing is used, rotate them. They
should turn freely and show no signs of rough movement. If replacement of the pilot
bearing is required, the use of a slide hammer puller will drive the bearing out of the
crankshaft end. Before installing a new pilot bearing, check the fit by sliding it over
the input shaft of the transmission. Then drive the new bearing into the end of the
crankshaft.
Inspect the disc for wear; inspect the depth of the rivet holes, and check for loose
rivets and worn or broken torsion springs. Check the splines in the clutch disc hub
for a "like new" condition. Inspect the clutch shaft splines by placing the disc on the
clutch shaft and sliding it over the splines. The disc should move relatively free
back and forth without any unusual tightness or binding. Normally, the clutch disc is
replaced anytime the clutch is torn down for repairs.
Another area to inspect is the release bearing. The release bearing and sleeve are
usually sealed and factory packed (lubricated). A bad release bearing will produce a
grinding noise whenever the clutch pedal is pushed down. To check the action of
the release bearing, insert your fingers into the bearing; then turn the bearing while
pushing on it. Try to detect any roughness; it should rotate smoothly. Also, inspect
the spring clip on the release bearing or fork. If bent, worn, or fatigued, the bearing
or fork must be replaced.
The last area to check before reassembly is the clutch fork. If it is bent or worn, the
fork can prevent the clutch from releasing properly. Inspect both ends of the fork
closely.
Also, inspect the clutch fork pivot point in the clutch housing; the pivot ball or
bracket should be undamaged and tight.
When you install a new pressure plate, do not forget to check the plate for
proper adjustments. These adjustments were covered in a previous section.
Reassemble the clutch in the reverse order of disassembly. Mount the clutch disc
and pressure plate on the flywheel. Make sure the disc is facing in the right
direction.

Usually, the disc's offset center (hub and torsion springs) fit into the pressure plate.
If reinstalling, line up the old pressure plate using the alignment marks made
before disassembly. Start all of the pressure plates bolts by hand. Never
replace a clutch pressure plate bolt with a weaker bolt. Always install the
special case-hardened bolt recommended by the manufacturer.

Use a clutch alignment tool to center the clutch disc on the flywheel. If an alignment
tool is unavailable, you can use an old clutch shaft from the same type of vehicle.
Tighten each pressure plate bolt a little at a time in a crisscross pattern. This will
apply equal pressure on each bolt as the pressure plate spring(s) are compressed.
When the bolts are snugly in place, torque them to the manufacturer’s
specifications found in the service manual. Once the pressure plates bolts are
torque to specification, slide out the alignment tool. Without the clutch disc being
centered, it is almost impossible to install the transmission or transaxle.
Next, install the clutch fork and release bearing in the clutch housing. Fit the
clutch housing over the rear of the engine. Dowels are provided to align the
housing on the engine. Install and tighten the bolts in a crisscross manner.
Install the transmission and drive shaft or the transaxle and axle shafts. Reconnect
the linkages, the cables, any wiring, the battery, and any other parts required for
disassembly. After all parts have been installed, adjust the clutch pedal free travel
as prescribed by the manufacturer, and test drive the vehicle for proper operation.

V. DISCUSSION BOARD

1. What is the importance of power train?

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2. What is clutch system?

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VI. POST-COMPETENCY CHECKLIST (FORMATIVE ASSESSMENT

1. What is the difference between power train and drive train?

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2. Discussed how power train works?

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3. What is the difference between manual and automatic clutches?

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4. What are the component parts of clutch system?

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