NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION

TECHNOLOGY

SEMESTER-VII (2020-
2024)

Product Analysis and Development

JURY ASSIGNMENT

Tech Pack, Testing, Patterns, Test Fit and Prototype of the

Garment

Under the guidance of-

Ms. Abhilasha Singh Assistant
Professor NIFT-Patna

Group Members-
Chandan Kumar (BFT/20/506)
Kumail Hasan (BFT/20/)
 CERTIFICATE
“This is to certify that this assignment on – “Tech Pack and Testing of the Garment” is
based on the original research work of –Chandan Kumar and Kumail Hasan of BFT-VII
conducted under the guidance of Ms. Abhilasha Singh towards Mid-term Assignment of
the subject-“Product Analysis and Development” of NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF
FASHION TECHNOLOGY.
No part of this work has been copied from any other source. Material, wherever borrowed has
been duly acknowledged.”
Date: 18/10/2024

Chandan Kumar (BFT/20/506)

Kumail Hasan (BFT/20/)

Ms. Abhilasha Singh

Assistant Professor
Table of Contents
1.0 Introduction
For the Product Analysis and Development, we have selected Men’s Formal Full Sleeves
Shirt as our product. We have made a detailed tech sheet
for the garment which we can refer to make the final garment. In the tech sheet we have
mentioned the measurements of the garment, Front and Back sketches of the garment,
descriptive specification sheet and the bill of materials.
We have performed various tests on the selected garment i.e. fabric tests and trim tests to
analyze the garment. Following this we have made the final tech pack of the garment and
made the patterns, test fit and the prototype.

Front Part Back Part

 1. Tech pack of Men’s formal full sleeves shirt
Style Description
Brand Name: Flick Current Measurement
Manufacturer: Vishal Mega Mart

Style Number: VM2116339

Merchandise Group: Formals

Wear

Theme: Elegance and

Sophistication
Body Type: Men’s Wear
SEASON/YEAR: Spring-
Summer 2024
SIZE RANGE: S-XXL
SAMPLE SIZE: Medium
FIT: Slim-Fit
Verbal Description of Garment:
It is a light purple(pink) color
formal shirt.

NOTES: Here reference size is

M.
 Garment Information
Brand Name: Flick Style Number: VM2116339
Manufacturer: Vishal Mega Mart FIT: Slim-Fit
Merchandise Group: Formals Wear SEASON/YEAR: Spring-Summer 2024
SIZE RANGE: S-XXL SAMPLE SIZE: Medium

NOTES: Shows how to measure the shirt. COMMENTS:

2. Garment Information

3. Positioning Strategy
Functional 5 4 3 2 1 0 1 2 3 4 5 Aesthetic
Durable 5 4 3 2 1 0 1 2 3 4 5 Disposable
Intrinsic Cues 5 4 3 2 1 0 1 2 3 4 5 Extrinsic Cues
Basic Styling 5 4 3 2 1 0 1 2 3 4 5 Fashionable
Budget Price 5 4 3 2 1 0 1 2 3 4 5 Better Price
 4. Fit Indicators
Gender Male

Height

Circumference

Weight range 56 – 72 kg

Size indicator Medium (M)

Collar Length: 41cm

Sleeve length: 61.4cm

Chest Circumference: 49.5cm

Placket Length: 61.2cm

Cuff: 5.8cm

Silhouette Closeness to body

Fit level Height – medium

Circumference – slim fit

5. Material Specification

TRIMS

Number of buttons 13

Trim 1

Material name Button

Material description Matt finish, Polyester

Colour Light Purple

Button Size 18L

Location Used Collar, Cuff, Placket

Other details 4-Hole

Trim 2

Material name Wash Care Label

Material description Printed Care label

Colour White with black text

Fiber content Viscose Rayon

Care instruction Wash and dry inside out

separately, machine wash warm

use mild detergent, do not soak, do

not bleach, do not wring, tumble

dry low, warm iron, do not dry

clean

Other details

Trim 3

Material name Size label

Material description Size label

Colour Black with white text (woven)

Fiber content Viscose Rayon

Care instruction Wash and dry inside out

separately, machine wash warm

use mild detergent, do not soak, do

not bleach, do not wring, tumble

dry low, warm iron, do not dry

clean

Other details
Trim 4

Material name Size label

Material description Size label

Colour Black with white text (woven)

Fiber content Viscose Rayon

Care instruction Wash and dry inside out

separately, machine wash warm

use mild detergent, do not soak, do

not bleach, do not wring, tumble

dry low, warm iron, do not dry

clean

Trim 5

Material name Microdot Fusing

Material description Polyester, Nonwoven, Weight: 25

GSM

Colour White

Fiber content 100% polyester

Care instruction NA

Other details Used in Collar,Cuff

Trim 6

Material name Price tag

Material description Gsm 226 sheet

Colour Black and white sticker

Trim 7

Figure 1: Hang Tag

Material Name Hang tag

Material description Black Nylon hang tag

Colour Black

Trim 8

Material Name Thread

Material description Light Purple polyester thread

Colour Light Purple

6. Garment Components
Name of the Components Number of pieces to be cut
Front 2
Back 1
Yoke 2
Sleeve 2
Placket 1
Cuff 4
Collar Stand 2
Collar 2
Slit 2
Pocket 1
 7. Operation Sequence
S. No. Operation Name SPI/Stitch Type Machine type
Collar Cuff and Make
1. Collar and Collar Band Fusing N/A Iron
2. Collar Mark N/A Manual
3. Collar Sewing SNLS
4. Collar Trim and Turn SNEC
5. Collar Top Stitch SNLS
6. Collar Band Rolling SNLS
7. Collar Band Number Match With N/A Manual
Collar
8. Collar Attach With Collar Band SNLS
9. Collar Band With Top Stitch SNLS
10. Cuff Rolling SNLS
11. Cuff Marking N/A Manual
12. Cuff Sewing SNLS
13. Cuff Edge Cut And Turn N/A Manual
14. Cuff Topstitch SNLS
15. Collar And Cuff Press N/A Iron
Sleeve Make
16. Sleeve Mark And Cut For Placket N/A Manual
17. Placket Attach SNLS
18. Pleat Sewing SNLS
19. Sleeve Button Hole Marking N/A Manual, Chalk
20. Sleeve Button Hole Button Hole
Machine
21. Sleeve Button Stitch Button Sew
Machine
Back Part and Front Part
22. Size and Main Label Attach SNLS
23. Back Yoke Attach SNLS
24. Back Extra Slot Trimming N/A Manual
25. Fusing Attach At Front Placket N/A Iron
26. Front Placket Mark And Press N/A Manual, Iron
27. Front Placket Attach SNLS
28. Front Placket ¼ Top Stitch SNLS
29. Placket Press N/A Iron
30. Front Placket Placement Mark N/A Manual
31. Front Placket Attach SNLS
32. Front Pocket ¼ Top Stitch SNLS
33. Pocket Iron N/A Iron
34. Front And Back Panel Match N/A Manual
35. Shoulder Join SNLS
36. Shoulder Top Stitch SNLS
37. Collar Attach SNLS
38. Collar Top Stitch SNLS
39. Sleeve Attach SNLS
40. Armhole Top Stitch SNLS
41. Side Seam Attach FOA
42. Cuff Attach SNLS
43. Hem Bottom SNLS
44. All Button Hole Making Button Hole
Machine
45. All Button Marking N/A Manual
46. All Button Stitch Button Sew
Machine
47. Final Trimming of All Extra Threads N/A Manual

8. Garment Package Information

GARMENT PACKAGE INFORMATION

Brand Label Yes, Flick

Size Label Yes

Fiber content label None

Country of origin label None

Care Instruction label Yes

Hangers/Display Device Displayed on the hanger

Size- S-XXL

Hang Tag Information Size, Fiber Content, Price

9. Garment Description Specification Sheet (Tech-Pack)

Brand Name: Flick Style Number: VM2116339
Manufacturer: Vishal Mega FIT: Slim-Fit
Mart
Classification: Men’s Formal SEASON/YEAR: Spring-Summer 2024
Shirt
SIZE RANGE: S-XXL SAMPLE SIZE: Medium
SL.No Garment Stitch Seam Needle Seam Diagram
 . Part Class Construction Used
Description
1. Button 101 SSb DB X12
Placket

2. Pocket 301 SSb DB X 12

Attach

3. Collar and 301 SSc DB X 12

Collar Band
Attachment
(Button
Down)
4. Shoulder 301 Flat Fell DB X 12
Attachment

5. Armhole 301 SSw DB X 12

Sleeve
Attach
6. Side Seam 401 Chainstitch EY X 128

7. Bottom Hem 301 EFb DB X 12

8. Button Hole 304 DB X 14

10.Bill of Materials
Brand Name: Flick Style Number: VM2116339
Manufacturer: Vishal Mega Mart FIT: Slim-Fit
Classification: Men’s Formal Shirt SEASON/YEAR: Spring-Summer 2024
SIZE RANGE: S-XXL SAMPLE SIZE: Medium
Fabric (Original)
Category Code Fabric Location Fiber GSM
Type Used
PE-001 Poly Body Cotton and 122 gram/m3
Cotton Polyester
mixed
IL-010 Interfacing Collar, Cuff Polyester 40 gram/m3
Microdot
 Button (Trims)
Category Code Trim Type Location Color Specification
Used
PEB-101 Buttons Placket, Pink L
Collar, Cuff
Other Trims
Category Code Trim Type Location Quantity Description
Used
PE-02 Brand Attached 1 It is an embroidered
Label With Yoke label
PE-03 Thread For Sewing _ Thread
of garment
PE-04 Wash Care Side Seam of 1 It contains all wash care
Garment instructions
PE-05 Hang tags Hanged on 1 It is transparent with
placket white sticker
PE-06 Kimble Attached to 1 It is a nylon string
placket
Final Pricing of Original Garment= Rs.299

TESTING
Testing-Introduction
Testing is critical for determining the quality of products, ensuring regulatory compliance,
and evaluating the performance of materials. It contains information on the
fabric/garment/trims physical or structural features as well as their performance properties.
Objectives of Testing:
Following are the objectives of testing-
 Maintaining Product Quality
 Maintaining Customer Satisfaction
 Maintaining Brand Reputation
 Maintaining Compliances
There are various number of tests that can be performed on the fabric for testing its physical
and chemical properties. Following are the tests that we are going to perform on our selected
garment.
1. Burning/Flammability Test
2. GSM Test
3. EPI & PPI Test
4. Crease Recovery Test
5. Fabric Tearing Strength Test
6. Tensile Strength Test
7. Color Fastness Test (Dry and Wet)
8. Fabric Thickness Test
Let us discuss each test in detail and analyze the test report of the garment for each test-
Burning Test:
The burning test on fabric is a quick method to identify fiber content by observing the burn
rate, smell, ash color, and residue when a small fabric sample is set on fire.

Procedure:
1. We have to cut the samples from the original fabric & sourced fabric sample.
2. Now these samples have to stick with the cello-tape on the slap and burnt with the
match-stick.
3. The smell of the fabric was to be observed to find out whether it was a natural fibre,
synthetic, or blend.

Observations:
Observation Table:
S.No. Fiber Approach Flame Inflame Odor
1. Cotton Ignites Readily Burns Quickly Paper Burning
2. Wool Melts Away Burns Quickly Hair Burning
3. Silk Melts Away Burns Quickly Hair Burning
4. Rayon Ignites Readily Burns Quickly Paper Burning
5. Acetate Fuses Away Burns Slowly Paper Burning
6. Polyester Shrinks Away Burns Slowly Slightly Sweetish
7. Nylon Shrinks Away Burns Slowly Acrid Line
Vinegar
8. Acrylic Fuses & Shrinks Burns Quickly Meat Burning
9. Poly-Cotton Shrink & Melts Burns Steady Burnt Paper

Observation Table:
S.No. Fiber Approach Flame Inflame Odor
1. Main Fabric Shrink & Melts Burns Steady Burnt Paper
2. Sourced Fabric Shrink & Melts Burns Steady Burnt Paper

Findings:
According to above observations both the samples are made up of poly-cotton.

Conclusion:
This test is a quick and effective way to identify general fiber types as we found that our
original fabric is a poly-cotton.
GSM Test:
Weight of the fabric is tested through GSM Test. GSM stands for grams per square meter of
fabric.

Apparatus Required:
1. GSM Cutter,
2. Weighting Balance
3. Fabric Sample
4. Cutting pad

Procedure:
STEP 1: Utilize the GSM cutter to cut the fabric. The sample fabric is cut of an area of 1 cm 2.
STEP 2: The electric balance is used to weigh the fabric.

Calculations:
For Original Fabric:
Weight: 1.22 g/cm2
GSM: 1.22 X 100
GSM: 122 g/m2

For Sourced Fabric:

Weight: 1.26 g/cm2
GSM: 1.26 X 100
GSM: 126 g/m2

Conclusion:
This test helps to assess whether the fabric meets the required specifications for its intended
use or not.
EPI & PPI Test:
EPI and PPI are measurements of thread count in woven fabric. EPI measures the number
of warp threads per inch, while PPI measures the number of weft threads per inch. It is
used to determine the thread density of woven fabric and are used to determine the fabric's
quality, durability.
Apparatus Required:
1. Pick Glass/Magnifying Glass
2. Pointed Object (Pins)

Procedure:
STEP 1: Prepare the fabric sample
Ensure the fabric is flat and clean, with no distortions cut a small rectangular fabric sample
generally 2”X2” or larger from the fabric to be tested.
STEP 2: Identify the warp & weft
Warp thread runs lengthwise in the fabric, while the weft thread runs widthwise. Identify
these directions before starting the test.
STEP 3: Counting of EPI & PPI
Place the pick glass or magnifying glass with a scale over the fabric so that we can clearly see
warp and weft threads. Use the sharp object to help to separate and count the individual warp
thread within 1-inch. Record the no. of warp and weft threads of both sample within 1-inch.
STEP 4: Repeat for Accuracy
Count EPI & PPI at least three different locations on the fabric sample to ensure. Calculate
the average value for both EPI & PPI.

Observations:
Original Fabric:
1. EPI: 26
2. PPI: 46
Sourced Fabric:
1. EPI: 42
2. PPI: 24

Conclusion:
The EPI & PPI test gives a clear understanding of the fabric’s construction density.
Crease Recovery Test:
Crease Recovery refers to a fabric's capacity to return to its pre-crease state. In addition, we
can state that crease recovery is a quantitative indicator of crease resistance expressed in
terms of crease recovery angle. The construction, twist of the yarn, pressure, and other factors
all affect crease recovery. (Learner, 2012)

Apparatus Required:
1. Crease Recovery tester
2. Scissor
3. Weight
4. Fabric Sample
Technical Details of Crease Recovery Tester:
1. Size of the Test Specimen: 40mm X 15MM
2. Creasing Load: 1Kg (10N approx)
3. Angle Measurement: On an Engraved Circular Scale Graduated in 1 Degree
4. Scale Range: 0-180 Degree
5. Diameter of the scale disc: 160mm
6. Overall Dimension of Unit: (235 x 170 x 230) mm
7. Net Weight of the Unit: 8.3 Kg (18.26 lbs)
Procedure:
STEP 1: The cut size for the fabric sample is 4 cm by 1.5 cm.
STEP 2: The weight is removed after one minute, and the device is fastened onto the
wrinkled cloth.
STEP 3: It is then given time to heal from the crease. Depending on the type of crease, the
recuperation duration may change. Typically, it lasts one minute.
STEP 4: The instrument dial is turned to keep the specimen's free edge parallel to the knife
edge as the crease recovers.
STEP 5: The engraved scale is used to determine the recovery angle.

Observations:
Original Fabric Sourced Fabric
Warp Weft Warp Weft
Reading 88 ° 80 ° 91 ° 83 °
Actual Reading 100 °-88 °= 100 °-80 °= 100 °-91 °= 100 °-83 °=
12 ° 20 ° 9° 17 °

Conclusion:
The original fabric has better crease recovery weft-wise than sourced fabric.
Fabric Tearing Strength Test:
Tearing Strength is the fabric's ability to resist ripping or the amount of effort needed to
spread a tear after it has started. (StudyCenter, 2018)
Apparatus Required:
1. Elmendorf Tear Tester
2. Template for cutting Fabric Sample
3. Fabric Sample
100 mm

15 mm

75 mm
43 mm

Procedure:
STEP 1: Cut the fabric sample according to the template
STEP 2: The sample fabric is then transferred between the two clamps by raising the
pendulum to starting position.
STEP 3: The pendulum is then released to make the slit on the fabric.
STEP 4: The pointer attached to the pendulum shows the reading for the tearing force
directly.

Observations:
Original Fabric Sourced Fabric
Reading 7 9
Actual Reading 100-7 = 93 kgN 100-9 = 91 kgN

Conclusion:
Original fabric has less tearing strength than sourced fabric.
Tensile Strength Test:
The force required to stretch and fracture a sample is measured by tensile testing. The
strength and elasticity of woven, knitted, or nonwoven materials are assessed using this
method.
Apparatus Required:
1. Tensile Strength Tester
2. Scissor
3. Sample Fabric
Procedure:
STEP 1: Cut the fabric sample of the dimension 6” x 1” in both warp and weft direction.
STEP 2: Now, adjust the fabric sample in the machine.
STEP 3: Start the machine. Observe the sample. As soon as it gets a tear, stop the machine.
STEP 4: Write down the reading.

Observations:
Original Fabric Sourced Fabric
Warp Weft Warp Weft
Initial Length: Initial Length: Initial Length: Initial Length: 16.9
16.4 16.4 16.2 Final Length: 20.5
Final Length: Final Length: Final Length: 20.5 Peak: 31.4 kg
20.3 20.5 Peak: 14.7 kg
Peak: 11.2 kg Peak: 24.9 kg

Conclusion:
The tensile strength of the fabric in both wrap & weft direction will provide insight into its
durability and performance under stress. According to the observation sourced fabric have
more peak weft-wise.
Color Fastness Test (Dry & Wet):
The purpose of the color fastness to rubbing test is to evaluate how much color may transfer
from the surface of a colorful fabric to a designated test material for rubbing (which could be
dry and wet). (Learner, 2012)
Apparatus Required:
1. Digital Crockmeter
2. Sample Fabric
3. White Textile Blotting Paper.
4. Specimen Holder for Crockmeter.
Procedure:
STEP 1: Cut fabric sample of 19 cm x 14 cm.
STEP 2: Put the sample in the crockmeter. (Dry)
STEP 3: Fit the white blotting paper for rubbing.
STEP 4: Set the machine for a cycle of 10.
STEP 5: Do the same for the wet fabric.

Observations:
Dry Wet
Original Fabric 4.5 4
Sourced Fabric 4.5 4

Conclusion:
The color fastness of the fabric in both dry and wet conditions is evaluated based on the
degree of color transfer.
Fabric Thickness Test:
The thickness of any compressible material, including woven, knitted, and non-woven
fabrics, is determined by sandwiching a sample of the
material between two plane surfaces of an incompressible metal. The circular pressing plates'
surfaces are kept parallel to one another. The samples are examined at a particular pressure.
(Adviser, 2021)
Apparatus Required:
1. Fabric thickness tester.
2. Scissor
3. Sample Fabric

Procedure:
The specimen is maintained accurately under circular pressure. There shouldn't be any
wrinkles on the specimen. The pressure release lever applies
the specified pressure to the circular pressure foot. The specimen is subjected to a standard
pressure of 100 grams per square centimeter. According to the suggested standard, it might
change.

Observations:
Original Fabric Sourced Fabric
Reading (mm) 0,29 0.27
Thickness (mm) 0.29 mm 0.27 mm

Conclusion:
Therefore, the thickness of sourced fabric is less than that of original fabric.