OTHER LOOPS

TULIP_LOOP_SWEATER

www.otherloops.com / Instragram_ @otherloops

TULIP_LOOP_SWEATER has a loose fit with straight RS = right side
sleeves, detailed with cables and ribbing. WS = wrong side
BOR = beginning of the round
The sweater is worked from top to bottom. First the back sl1pw wyif = slip 1 stitch purl-wise with yarn held in front of
piece and the front piece are worked back and forth. the work
Then the two pieces are joined to form the body and are sl1pw wyib = slip 1 stitch purl-wise with yarn held behind
worked in the round. Sleeve stitches are picked up around the work
the armhole and the sleeves are worked in the round as edge st = edge stitch (worked knit-wise on the right side
well. To ensure a good fit, short rows are worked at the and purl-wise on the wrong side).
top of the back piece, shoulders and sleeves. A cable and
ribbing pattern are worked on the body and sleeves, and Cables_
all hems are finished with twisted rib. When the pattern says cable, you will need to place 3 sts
from the left needle onto a cable needle in front of the
Sizes_ work, knit 3 sts from the left needle, knit the 3 sts from
XS (S) M (L) XL (XXL) the cable needle, place 3 sts from the left needle onto
a cable needle behind the work, knit 3 sts from the left
Measurements_ needle, and knit the 3 sts from the cable needle.
Circumference_ 107 (113) 118 (124) 135 (143) cm.
Length_ 52 (52) 53 (58) 59 (59) cm, measured from under Short rows_
the neckline on the back piece. Short rows are worked according to the German Short
The sweater has a generous positive ease of about 25 cm. Rows technique.
You should knit a size where the circumference is about When the pattern says turn, you will need to turn the
25 cm bigger than your own chest circumference, work and slip the first stitch. Pull the yarn up over the
depending on how loose you want the sweater to be. needle and pull on the yarn end, so that you create a
The pink version shown is size S with a positive ease of 27 double stitch/stitch with 2 “legs”. Hold the yarn tight and
cm. This is worked with extra length on the sleeves. continue with working the row as described. When you
The light grey version shown is size M, with a positive later come across the double stitch, you will work both
ease of 32 cm. “legs” together as one stitch.

Materials_ Increases_
1 strand Jensen 50 g / 125 m from Isager or 1 strand Heavy M1L_ knit left-leaning increase – insert the left needle
Merino 50 g / 125 m from Knitting for Olive or 1 strand My from the front under the strand between the stitches and
Wool 50 g / 125 m from Gepard knit it (through the back loop).
400 (450) 450 (500) 500 (550) g. M1R_ knit right-leaning increase – insert the left needle
Together with from the back under the strand between the stitches and
1 strand Silk Mohair 25 g / 212 m from Isager or 1 strand knit it (through the front loop).
Kid Seta 25 g / 210 m from Gepard or Soft Silk Mohair 25 g M1L-P _ purl left-leaning increase – insert the left needle
/ 225 m from Knitting for Olive from the front under the strand between the stitches and
125 (125) 150 (150) 175 (175) g. purl it (through the back loop).
M1R-P_ purl right-leaning increase – insert the left needle
Or_ from the back under the strand between the stitches and
purl it (through the front loop).
2 strands Tvinni 50 g / 255 m from Isager
400 (450) 450 (500) 500 (550) g. Decreases_
Together with K2tog_ knit right-leaning decrease – knit 2 stitches
1 strand Silk Mohair 25 g / 212 m from Isager or 1 strand together.
Kid Seta 25 g / 210 m from Gepard or Soft Silk Mohair 25 g SSK_ knit left-leaning decrease - SSK improved – slip the
/ 225 m from Knitting for Olive first stitch knit-wise, slip the next stitch purl-wise, insert
125 (125) 150 (150) 175 (175) g. the left needle through the stitches from left to right and
knit them together through the back loops.
The pink version is worked with Isager Tvinni col. 27s P2tog_ purl right-leaning decrease – purl 2 stitches
together with Kid Seta col. 488. together.
The light grey version is worked with Isager Jensen col. 0s P2togtbl_ purl left-leaning decrease – purl 2 stitches
together with Silk Mohair col. 0. together through the back loops.

Back_
Recommended needles_ The back piece is worked back and forth. Short rows are
4.5 mm circular needles (40 and 80 or 100 cm). worked across the upper part to shape the back piece. At
4 mm circular needles (40 and 80 or 100 cm), and the same time, the rib and cable sections are established.
possibly DPNs in the same size, unless using Magic Loop
technique. Cast 91 (91) 101 (101) 111 (111) sts onto 4.5 mm needles.
Cable needle.
Now establish the rib and cable sections.
Gauge_ Work 1 row from the WS as follows: edge st, *p3, k2*,
18 sts x 28 rows in rib (k3, p2) on 4.5 mm = 10 x 10 cm after repeat from *-* 2 (2) 3 (3) 4 (4) more times, p12, k2, p31, k2,
washing and blocking. p12, *k2, p3*, repeat from *-* 2 (2) 3 (3) 4 (4) more times,
edge st.
Abbreviations_
k = knit Break the yarn.
p = purl
tbl = through the back loop Slip the first 30 (30) 35 (35) 40 (40) sts from the left
tog = together needle to the right needle without knitting them. In the
st(s) = stitch(es) following section, work the sts as they show.
rnd(s) = round(s)

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Join new yarn and work 31 sts, turn. Row 2_ (WS) work the whole row
Row 1_ (WS) work to the st where the new yarn was Row 3_ (RS) work 4 sts, M1L, work to 4 sts before end of
joined, also work that st, work 5 sts, turn. row, M1R, work 4 sts
Row 2_ (RS) work to the last turn, work the double st, Row 4_ WS) work the whole row
work 5 sts, turn. Row 5_ (RS) work 4 sts, M1L, work to marker, M1R-P, slip
Row 3_ (WS) work to the last turn, work the double st, marker, work to 1 st before marker, slip st to right needle,
work 5 sts, turn. remove marker, slip st back to the left needle, k2tog, work
Row 4_ (RS) work to the last turn, work the double st, 1 st, slip st to right needle, remove the next marker, slip st
work 5 sts, turn. back to the left needle, SSK, work to marker, slip marker,
M1L-P, work to 4 sts before end of row, M1R, work 4 sts
Repeat rows 3_ and 4_ a total of 3 (3) 4 (4) 5 (5) more Row 6_ (WS) work the whole row
times. After the last turn, there are 5 sts left on the needle. Row 7_ (RS) work 4 sts, M1L-P, work to 4 sts before end of
row, M1R-P, work 4 sts
Work the rest of the row. Row 8_ (WS) work the whole row
Row 9_ (RS) work 4 sts M1L-P, work to marker, M1R-P,
Now all short rows are made and the piece measures 4.5 slip marker, work 5 sts, cable, work 7 sts, cable, work to
(4.5) 5 (5) 5.5 (5.5) cm, measured mid-back. marker, slip marker, M1L-P, work to 4 sts before end of
row, M1R-P, work 4 sts
Now work back and forth for a total of 0 (0) 2 (2) 4 (4) Row 10_ (WS) work the whole row.
rows.
You have now worked 4 decreases and 16 increases = 103
Now the back piece is worked back and forth while also (103) 113 (113) 123 (123) sts.
working cables as well as increases and decreases- this
will move the cables and create the ‘triangle’ detail. Remove the marker, break the yarn and let the sts rest.

Insert 4 markers as follows: insert markers after 11 (11) 16 Left shoulder_

(16) 21 (21) sts, 20 sts, 29 sts, 20 sts (11 (11) 16 (16) 21 (21) sts Pick up 31 (31) 36 (36) 41 (41) sts with 4.5 mm needles
before the end of the row). Check that they are placed along the edge of the left shoulder. Sts are picked up
symmetrically throughout the back piece. from the RS of the neck towards the shoulder. Start pick-
ing up sts at the outermost knit-st on the left side of the
Row 1_ (RS) work to marker, M1R, slip marker, work to ’triangle’ and pick up in all sts along the shoulder edge.
marker, slip marker, k2tog, work to 2 sts before marker, To achieve the nicest transition between the front and
SSK, slip marker, work to marker, M1L, work the rest of the back piece, sts are picked up in the sts and not between
row. the sts.
Rows 2 - 4_ work the whole row.
Row 5_ (RS) work to the marker, M1R, slip marker, work to Now the rib and cable sections will be established.
marker, slip marker, k2tog, work to 2 sts before marker, Work 1 row from the WS as follows: edge st, *p3, k2*,
SSK, slip marker, work to marker, slip marker, M1L, work repeat from *-* 2 (2) 3 (3) 4 (4) more times, p 12, k2, edge
the rest of the row. st. (Be careful that your knit and purl sts of the back piece
Row 6 - 8_ work the whole row. lie just outside the shoulder sts). For the following section,
Row 9_ (RS) work to marker, M1R, slip marker, work 5 sts, work all sts as they show.
cable, work to marker, slip marker, k2tog, work to 2 sts
before marker, SSK, slip marker, work 3 sts, cable, work to
marker, slip marker, M1L, work the whole row. Now work short rows back and forth to shape the left
Rows 10 - 12_ work the whole row shoulder as follows:
Row 13_ (RS) work to marker, M1R-P, slip marker, work to
marker, slip marker, k2tog, work to 2 sts before marker, Row 1_ (RS) work 5 sts, turn
SSK, slip marker, work to marker, slip marker, M1L-P, work Row 2_ (WS) work the whole row
the rest of the row Row 3_ (RS) work to the last turn, work the double st,
Rows 14 - 16_ work the whole row work 5 sts, turn
Row 17_ (RS) work as row 13_ Row 4_ (WS) work the whole row.
Rows 18 - 20_ work the whole row
Row 21_ (RS) work as row 5_ Repeat rows 3_ and 4_ for 3 (3) 4 (4) 5 (5) more times.
Rows 22 - 24_ work the whole row After the last turn, 5 sts are remaining on the needle.
Row 25_ (RS) work as row 9_
Rows 26 - 28_ work the whole row Now all the short rows have been worked.
Row 29_ (RS) work as row 5_
Rows 30 - 32_ work the whole row Now work back and forth as the sts show for a total of 2
Row 33_ (RS) work as row 13_ (2) 4 (4) 6 (6) rows.
Rows 34 - 36_ work the whole row
Row 37_ (RS) work as row 13_ Now increases are worked to the neck, as follows:
Rows 38 - 40_ work the whole row
Row 41_ (RS) work as row 9_ Row 1_ (RS) work edge st, M1L, work the rest of the row
Rows 42 - 44_ work the whole row Row 2_ (WS) work the whole row
Row 45_ (RS) work as row 5_ Rows 3-6_ repeat rows 1_ and 2_ 2 times
Rows 46 - 48_ work the whole row. Row 7_ (RS) edge st, M1L-P, work 5 sts, cable, work the
rest of the row
Now increases are made for the armhole as follows: Row 8_ (WS) work the whole row
Row 9_ (RS) edge st, M1L-P, work the rest of the row
Row 1_ (RS) work 4 sts, M1L, work to marker, M1R, slip Row 10_ (WS) work the whole row.
marker, work to marker, slip marker, k2tog, work to 2
sts before marker, SSK, slip marker, work to marker, slip You have now worked 5 increases = 36 (36) 41 (41) 46 (46)
marker, M1L, work to 4 sts before end of row, M1R, work 4 sts.
sts
Break the yarn and let the sts rest.
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Right shoulder_ Now work back and forth a total of 15 (15) 15 (15) 15 (15)
Pick up 31 (31) 36 (36) 41 (41) sts with 4.5 mm needles rows.
along the edge of the right shoulder. Sts are picked up
from the RS with the short end of the yarn, so the first st Work 1 row with cables, as described above.
can be worked from the RS. Start picking up sts from the
outermost edge st on the right shoulder and pick up in Now work back and forth a total of 7 (7) 7 (7) 7 (7) rows.
all sts along the shoulder edge, to and including the first
knit-st in the ‘triangle’. To achieve the nicest transition Now increases will be made for the armhole.
between the front and back piece, pick up in the sts and
not between the sts. Row 1_ (RS) work 4 sts, M1L, work to 4 sts before the end
of the row, M1R, work 4 sts.
Now the rib and cable sections are established. Row 2_ (WS) work the whole row
Pull the sts to the right needle and work 1 row from the Row 3_ (RS) work as row 1_
RS as follows: edge st, *k3, p2*, repeat from * to * for 2 (2) 3 Row 4_ (WS) work the whole row
(3) 4 (4) more times, k12, p2, edge st. (Be careful that the Row 5_ (RS) work as row 1_
knit and purl sts from the back piece lie just outside the Row 6_ (WS) work the whole row
shoulder sts). For the following section, work the sts as Row 7_ (RS) work 4 sts, M1L-P, work to 4 sts before the
they show. end of the row, M1R-P, work 4 sts
Row 8_ (WS) work the whole row
Now work short rows back and forth to shape the right Row 9_ (RS) work as row 7_, at the same time make
shoulder, as follows: cables across the 3 panels with cables
Row 10_ (WS) work the whole row
Row 1_ (WS) work 5 sts, turn
Row 2_ (RS) work the whole row You have now worked 10 increases = 102 (102) 112 (112) 122
Row 3_ (WS) work to the last turn, work the double st, (122) sts on the needle.
work 5 sts, turn
Row 4_ (RS) work the whole row Do not break the yarn.

Repeat rows 3_ and 4_ for 3 (3) 4 (4) 5 (5) more times. Body_
There are 5 sts remaining after the last turn. Now the front and back pieces are joined as follows:
Work across the front piece, cast on 0 (5) 0 (5) 5 (10) sts
Now all short rows have been worked. with backwards loop method in extension of the front
piece, work across the back piece, cast on 0 (4) 0 (4) 4 (4)
Work back and forth as the sts show for a total of 3 (3) 5 sts with backwards loop method in extension of the back
(5) 7 (7) rows. piece, insert marker for the BOR, cast on 0 (1) 0 (1) 1 (6)
sts with backwards loop method = 205 (215) 225 (235) 255
Now increases are made to the neck, as follows: (265) sts.

Row 1_ (RS) work to 2 sts before the end of the row, M1R, Now work 13 rnds. The edge st and the new sts are
edge st worked into the rib pattern (k3, p2).
Row 2_ (WS) work the whole row
Rows 3-6_ Repeat rows 1_ and 2_ 2 times Work 1 rnd with cables across the cable sections.
Row 7_ (RS) work 16 (16) 21 (21) 26 (26) sts, cable, work to 1
st before the end of the row, M1R-P, edge st Continue in the rnd and work cables on every 16th rnd.
Row 8_ (WS) work all sts
Row 9_ (RS) work to 1 st before the end of the row, M1R-P, Work until you have 6 (6) 6 (7) 7 (7) cables mid-front, then
edge st work 8 rnds. The piece should measure now approx. 45
Row 10_ (WS) work the whole row. (45) 46 (51) 52 (52) cm, measured mid-back.

You have now worked 5 increases = 36 (36) 41 (41) 46 (46) Change to 4 mm needles and work 7 cm in twisted rib
sts on the needle. (k1tbl, p1). On the first rnd, the first 2 sts are worked as
k2togtbl, to get an even number of sts for the rnd.
Do not break the yarn.
Work 2 rnds in double knitting as follows:
Front_
Now join the 2 shoulders for the front piece. Rnd 1_ Work * k1tbl, sl1pw wyif * repeat from * to * the
Work across the right shoulder, cast on 20 (20) 20 (20) 20 whole rnd.
(20) sts with backwards loop cast on in extension of the Rnd 2_ Work * sl1pw wyib, p1 *, repeat from * to * the
right shoulder, work across the left shoulder = 92 (92) 102 whole rnd.
(102) 112 (112) sts.
Bind off with Italian bind off.
Now the rib and cable sections will be established with
the new sts. Work 1 WS row as follows: Neckline_
The neckline is worked in the rnd on 4 mm (40 cm) circu-
Work back and forth to the new sts, p2, k2, p12, k2, p2, lar needles.
work the rest of the row. Pick 98 (98) 104 (104) 112 (112) sts up along the neckline.
Start picking up sts on the left side of the neck on the RS.
Now work back and forth a total of 10 (10) 10 (10) 10 (10) Sts are picked up in all sts around the neck.
rows.
Work 9 rnds in twisted rib (k1tbl, p1).
Work 1 row with cables from the RS as follows:
Work 16 (16) 21 (21) 26 (26) sts, cable, work 12 sts, cable, Work 2 rnds in double knitting as follows:
work 12 sts, cable, work the rest of the row.

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Rnd 1_ Work * k1, sl1pw wyif * repeat from * to * the whole Now decreases are worked on the inside and cables are
rnd. worked on the outside of the sleeve.
Rnd 2_ Work * sl1pw wyib, p1 *, repeat from * to * the The first decrease of the rnd is worked knit-wise if the
whole rnd. other st after the marker is a knit-st, and purl-wise if the
other st after the marker is a purl-st.
Work 8 rnds in twisted rib (k1tbl, p1). The second decreasing rnd is worked knit-wise, if the
second last st before the BOR marker is a knit-st, and
Now the ribbing edge is folded down and knit to the in- purl-wise if the second last st before the BOR marker is a
side while also binding sts off. Be careful to not twist the purl-st.
ribbing and bind off loosely so that the neckline does not
become too tight. The rnd with knit-wise decreases are worked as follows:
work to the marker, slip marker, k2tog, work to 2 sts
*Pick 1 st up from the edge where the sts were picked up before BOR marker, SSK.
and place it onto the left needle and knit the new st to-
gether with the first st on the needle, k1, pull the other st The rnd with the purl-wise decreases are worked as
on the right needle over the just-knitted st *. Repeat from follows: work to the marker, slip marker, p2tog, work to 2
* to * the whole rnd. sts before BOR marker, p2totgtbl.

Sleeve_ Work 3 rnds as the sts show.

With 4.5 mm (40 cm) circular needles, pick sts up from Work 1 rnd with decreases as described above, as well as
the RS along the armhole. Insert 1 marker at the top of work cables in the cable section.
the armhole. Start picking sts up at the bottom of the
armhole by picking up in the 2 (3) 2 (3) 3 (2) rib sts at the Afterwards, work decreases every 4th rnd 9 (9) 4 (4) 9 (9)
bottom of the armhole, then pick up 41 (43) 41 (43) 48 times, and work cables in the cable section every 16th rnd.
(46) sts along the edge to the marker at the top of the You have worked 20 (20) 10 (10) 20 (20) decreases = 64 (69)
armhole, and then 41 (43) 41 (43) 48 (46) sts along the 74 (79) 79 (74) sts.
edge to the bottom of the armhole = 84 (89) 84 (89) 99
(94) sts. Continue in the rnd until you have 6 (6) 6 (6) 5 (5) cables
for the sleeve, then work 8 rnds. The sleeve now measures
Sizes_ XS (-) M (-) - (XXL) Insert 1 marker on each side of approx. 37 (37) 37 (37) 32 (32) cm, measured from the
the 2 purl sts at the bottom of the armhole. The marker to outside of the sleeve.
the right is the BOR marker.
If you want extra sleeve length, continue up to, and
Work 1 rnd and establish the rib and cable pattern as including, the next cable, followed by 8 rnds.
follows:
Change to 4 mm needles and work 9 cm in twisted rib
*p2, k3* repeat from * to * until 8 sts before the marker at (k1tbl, p1). On the first rnd for size - (S) - (L) XL (XXL) work
the top of the armhole, p2, k12 (cable section), work *p2, the first 2 sts together tbl, to get an even number of sts.
k3*, repeat from * to * until the BOR.
Work 2 rnds in double knitting as follows:
Sizes_ - (S) - (L) XL (-) Insert 1 marker on each side of the 3
knit sts at the bottom of the armhole. The marker to the Rnd 1_ Work * k1tbl, sl1pw wyif *, repeat from * to * the
right is the BOR. whole rnd.
Rnd 2_ Work * sl1pw wyib, p1 *, repeat from * to * the
Work 1 rnd and establish the rib and cable sections as whole rnd.
follows:
Bind off with Italian bind off.
*k3, p2*, repeat from * to * until 6 sts before the marker at
the top of the armhole, k12 (cable section) p2, work *k3, Assembly_
p2*, repeat from * to * until BOR. Weave in all ends.
Wash and block the sweater.
All sizes_ Break the yarn.
Share your #tulip_loop_sweater on Instsgram.
Now work short rows back and forth over the upper part
of the sleeve to create more height for the sleeve cap. In Happy loops.
the following section, work the sts as they show.
Other Loops ©COPYRIGHT 2024
Slip sts 6 sts before the marker at the top, from the left This pattern is only for private use and may not be copied,
needle to the right needle, without working them. re-sold or shared.
Join new yarn and work as follows:

Row 1_ (RS) work 12 sts, turn

Row 2_ (WS) work to, and including, where new yarn was
joined, work 5 sts, turn
Row 3_ (RS) work to the last turn, work the double st,
work 5 sts, turn
Row 4_ (WS) work to the last turn, work the double st,
work 5 sts, turn.

Repeat rows 3_ and 4_ for 3 (3) 3 (3) 4 (4) more times.

Work to the BOR. You have now worked short rows across
the sleeve. Remove the marker at the top of the sleeve.

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