BASIC HAND STITCHES

Basic hand stitches can be classified as temporary and permanent stitches

TEMPORARY STITCHES
These are stitches used to hold layers of fabrics for a short period of time and then removed
after applying permanent stitches. Temporary stitches can also be used to;

 To guide the stitching

 To hold garment pieces together so that the garment may be tried on (for fitting).
 To hold lining, pockets, hems and pleats in position before they are finally secured.
 To transfer pattern markings.
Examples: Even tacking, Uneven tacking, Diagonal tacking, Tailor's tacking.
EVEN TACKING- the stitch and the space between the stitches is equal or same so it looks the
same on both the wrong side and the right side of the garment. Even tacking is used in areas
that require close control, such as curved seams, seams with ease and set-in sleeves.
UNEVEN TACKING - the stitches are double the length of the spaces between the stitches on the
right side of the garment. On the wrong side of the garment the stitches are half the length of
the spaces. Uneven tacking is useful for heavier materials, such as denim.
DIAGONAL TACKING - this consists of horizontal stitches taken parallel to each other and
producing diagonal floats in between. They are used on collars and pleats to prevent the layers
of fabric from slipping out of position until they are permanently stitched.
TAILOR'S TACKING-This is used to transfer pattern markings such as fitting lines, positions of
pockets, motifs, and so on before paper patterns is removed.
Running stitch is also be used as a temporary stitches when working gathers
N:B: all temporary stitches begin with a knot and end with a double back stitch for easy
removing when not needed.
PERMANENT STITCHES
These are stitches that are used to hold fabrics together securely and are not removed instead,
they get worn out with the garment. Permanent stitches are used to:

 Neaten raw edges of seams

 Hold hems in place
 Attach a patch to a worn-out garment
 Join pieces of fabric together if a machine is not used
• Attach lace to fabric
They are grouped according to their functions.
1. JOINING STITCHES
a) RUNNING STITCHES- these are made of very small even stitches, the length of the space
between the stitch and the length of the stitches is equal on both the right side and wrong side
of the garment. They are used for seams, tucks, gathering, top sewing and mending.
Method
1. Using a single thread, work from right to left. Begin with a double back stitch.
2. Catch up a few small evenly spaced stitches on the needle. The stitches should be equal in
size.
3. End with a double back stitch.
b) BACK STITCHES - These stitches are very strong stitches; they look like a straight machine
stitching. They are even in length with very little space between them. They are used to make
and repair seams.
Method
1. Using a single thread, work from the right to left and start with a short double back stitch.
2. Bring the needle to the upper side, a little further to the left, insert the needle at the end of
the last stitch and bring it out a little further to the left of the last stitch.
3. End with a short double back stitch.
c) OVERSEWING STITCH-These are very small, evenly spaced stitches used for join folded edges
together.
Method
1. Using a single thread, work from the right to left. Begin with a double back stitch on the
folded edge.
2. Insert the needle straight from the back edge through to the front edge. The depth of the
stitches should be equal and the stitches must be small and evenly spaced.
3. End with a double back stitch.
2. HOLDING DOWN STITCHES
a) HEMMING STITCH- this are small slanting stitches visible only on the wrong side of the
garment. They are used to secure of finish folded edges, such as facings, plain hems and
crossway bindings.
Method
1. Using a single thread, work from the right to left on a tacked hem. Begin with a double stitch.
2. Make evenly slanting stitches. Pick up a single thread from the fabric and then through the
fold (the needle must slant upwards).
3. End off firmly with a double stitch, run the thread into the fold and snip it off.
b) SLIP HEMMING STITCH- this is used to finish hems. The stitches are almost are almost
invisible on the right side..
Method
1. Using a single thread, work from the right to left on a tacked hem. Begin with a double stitch.
‫د‬
2. Take up a thread from the fabric under the fold and make a longer stitch (about 6 mm) on the
fold. (Slip the needle through the fold.) Repeat to continue stitching.
3. End off firmly with a double stitch into the fold and cut off the thread.
c) HERRINGBONE STITCH-this has slanting stitches with a cross on each end and it shows on
both sides of the garment. It is also used for joining interfacings and also for decorating textiles
articles.
Method
1. Using a single thread, start with a backstitch in the hem.
2. Working from left to right, pick up one or two threads from the fabric but inserting the needle
right to left.
3. Sew a small stitch in the hem, again pulling the needle from right to left.
4. Continue stitching across the hem with each stitch forming a cross and lying at right angles to
the previous stitch.
5. End off firmly with a back stitch in the hem and cut off the thread.
3. STITCHES USED FOR NEATENING RAW EDGES
a) BLANKET STITCH-it forms loops on the edges it is neatening. It is also used for attaching bars,
hook and eye and zipper tapes to seam allowance. It is used as a decorating stitch in cut work or
attaching motifs in appliqué.
When used for decoration. A double thread is used, but when used for neatening, a single
thread is used.
Method
1. Work from left to right on the right side of the article if used for decoration. Begin with a
double back stitch.
2. Insert the needle through the fabric from the right side and bring it out at the edge. The
needle should be at right angle to the raw edges.
3. Pull the needle and thread through, forming a loop over the edge.
4. End off firmly with a double stitch.
b) BUTTON HOLE STITCH-it forms a small half knot at the end of each stitch. It is used for
neatening hand worked button holes, in attaching hooks and eye or bar.
Method
1. Work from left to right on the right with the edge facing up. Begin by inserting the needle
upwards between the two layers of fabric so that it comes out at the edge of the slit.
2. Insert the needle downwards through both layers and take up a short stitch at the edge of the
slit.
3. Pass the thread coming from the eye of the needle under the point of the needle.
4. Pull the thread through and slowly control it until it is tight. (this forms a small knot).
5. End off firmly with a double stitch on the wrong side.
c) OVERCASTING STICH- used to neaten fraying edges of a fabric. This stitch can be worked from
left to right or from right to left.
Method
1. Begin with a double back stitch on a single cut edge.
2. Slant the needle to the left (or right) and push it through the underside of the fabric. Bring
the needle out near the edge.
3. Pull the tread through. The depth of the stitch should be equal to the length of the stitch.
4. End off firmly with a double stitch.
4. STITCHES USED FOR DECORATING TEXTILE ARTICLES
These are also called EMBROIDERY stitches. A special thread is used to get quality results.
Examples include:
a) CROSS-this is usually used to make decorative borders. The threads cross each other to form
crosses. A series of cross stitches form a diamond pattern.
Method
1. Begin by working from right to left and pass the needle vertically through the fabric to make a
slanting stitch, which form one half of the cross. Make as many even stitches as needed
2. Slant the needle to the left (or right) and push it through the underside of the fabric. Bring
the needle out near the edge.
3. Pull the tread through. The depth of the stitch should be equal to the length of the stitch.
4. End off firmly with a double stitch.
b) CHAIN- it is a series of looped stitches that form a chain.
Method
1. Work from right to left. Start with a back stitch and bring the thread up to the right side of the
material.
2. For each stitch, loop the thread up and around the point of the needle.
3. Insert the needle just behind where the thread emerges and bring it up over the looped
thread, a stitch length in front of that point.
4. Puli the tread through, to the left, to form a looped stitch. Repeat steps 3 to 4 to make a row
of even stitches.
5. End off by inserting the needle in front of the last stitch to the wrong side. Then whip around
the stitches on the wrong side. Then whip around the stitches on the wrong side.
c) SATIN- this is a long, straight stitch that is used to fill shape. The stitches should be close to
each other, and very neat and even.
Method
1. Begin by using a running stitch to outline the design to be filled.
2. Work from right to left and bring the needle through to the edge of the outline. Stitches
should overlap slightly (there should be no space between stitches).
3. For each stitch, loop the thread up and around the point of the needle.
4. End off on the wrong side of the fabric with a few running stitches.
d) STEM STITCH-it is used for outlining patterns and for 'drawing' lines like stalks of flowers.
e) LAZY DAISY/DETACHED CHAIN STITCH-it is commonly used to make flower petals or leaves
and it gets its name from a popular colorful flower.
1) FRENCH NOTS-they create texture as they look like small balls. They can be scattered or
clustered to give a desired effect.
WORKING SAFELY WITH NEEDLE WORK TOOLS.
Never put or hold pins or needles by mouth when sewing they can be breathed in easily and be
harmful to the body.
Use thread cutter or trimming scissor to cut thread not teeth, this is unhygienic and also causes
an irritation to the teeth.
Stop the machine while threading and keep the feet away from the foot control so that one
does not accidentally start the machine.
Tie hair back so that it is not caught in the machine's moving parts.
Wear a thimble at all times when sewing to protect the finger from the being pricked.
Use magnetic pin cushion to pick pins to avoid being pricked through the use of bare hands.
Switch off the iron when not in use to avoid fires and burns.
PRODUCTION OF TEXTILES
Fibres are twisted together to make yarns, which are then used to construct fabrics. The
diagram below shows the process of spinning the fibre into a yarn and constructing the fabric.

FABRIC CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES

Terms Used in Fabric Construction
Warp threads - are lengthwise yarns. Warp threads are sometimes called the lengthwise
threads or ends. The warp threads are usually stronger and stretch less than the weft threads.
Weft threads - are the crosswise yarns. Weft threads are sometimes called the filler threads or
picks.
• The Grain refers to the direction of the yarns in woven fabric. The grain of the fabric is perfect
when the lengthwise and crosswise threads cross each other at right angles.
The Selvedge is the firmly woven lengthwise finished edge of woven fabric that does not fray.
The Raw Edge is the crosswise edge where the threads can be pulled out.
Bias is any direction on a fabric that does not follow the length wise or crosswise grain exactly.
True bias makes a 45° angle across the lengthwise and crosswise grains. This is the direction in
which woven fabric has the greatest stretch.
The Fabric Construction techniques include weaving, knitting, macramé and crocheting. The
construction technique of the fabric will determine its structure and appearance and how it
should be handled and cared for.
1. WEAVING
This is where the warp threads are interlaced at right angles with the weft threads on a machine
called a Loom. Woven materials are strong and durable and do not stretch easily.
Types of Weaves
Plain weave - it is achieved by passing one weft thread over and under the warp threads.
Fabrics made from plain weave include calico, gingham (checked fabric), flannel (wool fabric),
cheesecloth and cotton fabric.
Skip 10 lines for samples
Basket weave - this is a variation of plain weave where two weft threads are passed under and
over two warp threads. Basket weave makes fabrics which are more flexible and less durable
than plain weave.
*Skip 10 lines for samples
Twill weave - this is a type of weave where the weft thread passes over at least two but not
more than four, warp threads. On each successive line the weft moves one step to the right or
the left to form a diagonal ridge. Fabrics made from twill weave include denim, drill and serge.
Twills are more durable than plain weave.
Skip 10 lines for samples
Satin weave - in satin weave the warp yarn passes over four to eight weft yarns in a staggered
pattern. Satin weave has a smooth texture and a characteristic sheen. Fabrics made from this
weave is Satin which is used to make wedding gowns and evening wear.
Structure of a Woven Fabric

2. KNITTING
This is a process in which needles are used to form a series of interlocking loops from one or
more yarns. In knitted fabrics the wale refers to the vertical row of loops and the course to the
loops that run in a crosswise direction. Knitted fabrics stretch since they are elastic. Knitted
items include jerseys, socks, etc.
Abbreviations used in Knitting
K-knit Tbl =through back loop
St(s) =stitches Tog = together
Dec = decrease Ws =wrong side
C/on = cast on P = purl
Yrn = yarn around needle St = stocking stitch
Alt =alternate Inc = increase
Cc -contracting color C/off = Cast off
Foll = following Beg = beginning
Mc -main color Cont= continue
Rem =remaining
SI-slip
Rep = repeat
Gst = garter stitch
Patt = pattern
Si st = slip stitch
Structure of a knitted Fabric

3. CROCHETING
This is the formation of interlocking loops using a single needle with a hook and a yarn.
Crocheting is used to produce fancy items such as doilies, tablecloths, bedspreads and shawls.
Abbreviations used in Crocheting
Ch = chain Sp = space
Inc = increase Tog = together
Dec =decrease Dbl =double.
Se= single crochet Dbl tr or dtr = double treble
De double crochet Hlf tror htr = half treble
4. MACRAME
This is a construction method where different types of knots are tied in a particular pattern to
create decorative articles, Different knots are combined to make a design. Macramé is used to
produce wall hangings, pot plant holders, bags belts and other items.
COLOUR APPLICATION
Colour can be applied to a fibre, yarn or fabric. Colour can be applied by weaving yarns of
different colours, by use of dyes and paints.
DYEING FABRICS
A dye is a colouring substance that is able to dissolve in water. Dyeing involves the use of colour
that can be obtained naturally or chemically. To fix a dye to the material a mordant is used. This
is a substance that binds the dye to the material. Salt is commonly used as a mordant.
Fabric dyeing techniques include Batik and Tie and dye.
Batik
This is where melted wax is applied onto the material to cover interesting shapes or designs.
The fabric is then immersed in cold dye bath. The waxed area resist the dye, that is the dye
cannot go through those areas. The process of applying wax can be done several times and the
fabric put in different dyes. To remove the wax, crack it, scrape off as much as possible and iron
over between absorbent papers.
Method
1. Design the pattern on paper and transfer it to the fabric. Lay the fabric on a flat protected
surface.
2. Melt the wax gently in a double boiler and with a brush apply it on both sides of the design.
3. Immerse the fabric in dye solution for a specified period of time. Rinse and dry the fabric.
4. Remove the wax by scraping off as much as possible and iron over between absorbent papers
to remove traces of grease.
5. Wash, rinse, dry and iron the fabric.
Tie and Dye
This is a method where designs are created on the fabric by tying some of the parts before
putting in the dye. The tying creates resistance that means the dye cannot get to the areas
where the fabric is tied firmly.
Method
1. Firmly tie the parts of the article that you do not want the dye to penetrate with a string and
prepare the dye solution.
2. Wet the tied piece
3. Immerse the tied item into the dye solution according to the instructions on the dye packet.
Remove the material and rinse in several waters.
4. Remove the strings and dry. Then press.
PRINTING
Printing is the application of a design or pattern onto the surface of a fabric using paints.
Printing can be done by hand or commercial machines.
Block Printing
In this method a wooden block with a raised pattern on the surface is dipped into paint and
then pressed faced down on to fabric. Sometimes a potato can be used to curve out a design.
The process is repeated using different colours to obtain the desired pattern.
Method
1. Curve out a design from wood, lino or potato.
2. Wash, rinse and dry the fabric to remove the starch.
3. Pour the thick fabric paint onto a paper or plastic plate.
4. Dip the design part of the block in the paint and stamp it into the fabric. Repeat this until the
design is completed.
5. Dry first then iron to fix the paint.
Stencil Printing
For this method of printing on fabric, a cut out stencil is placed on the fabric and the fabric paint
is applied to it using a paintbrush or sponge to outline the shape or design onto the fabric.
Method
1. Design the stencil and cut out the shape or design you want to use. Readymade stencils can
also be used.
2. Wash, rinse and dry the fabric to remove the starch.
3. Pour the thick fabric paint onto a paper or plastic plate..
4. Place and secure the stencil on the fabric, dip the paintbrush or sponge into the dye and dub
over the stencil design on the fabric. Repeat this until the design is completed.
5. Dry first then iron to fix the paint.
Screen Printing
Screen printing is the application of a design to a fabric using a screen made of very fine fabric.
The design is made on the fine fabric after attaching it to the wooden frame. Several colours can
be used in a design, but a separate frame should be used for each colour.
Method
1. Prepare the screen or use readymade screen. Place the screen over the fabric to be painted.
2. Put the fabric paint on the screen and force it across the design from one edge to the other.
Change the screen for each colour.
3. Dry first then iron to fix the paint.
WORKING SAFELY WITH DYES AND PAINTS

 Work in a well ventilated area. Some dyes contain chemicals that have strong smell and
give off dangerous fumes.
 Do not work with dyes or waxes near open flame. Some dyes contain alcohol, so they
are flammable. Wax gives off dangerous fumes at high temperatures and may catch fire.
 Always read the manufacture's instruction before mixing and using dyes.
 Do not eat or drink in the area where dyes and chemicals are used.
 Wear protective clothing. This includes:
-A dust or face mask when handling dye powders to avoid inhaling them.
-Safety goggles to protect your eyes against splashes and fumes.
-Rubber gloves to prevent absorption through your skin.
-Overalls or a long-sleeved shirt and pants to keep dye powder and concentrates away from
your skin.

 Do not use cooking or eating utensils for dyeing or painting.

 Cover the work area with old newspapers or old cloths to protect the floor, table or
carpet from being stained.
 Check the expiry dates on dye containers and do not use dyes that are past their shelf
life.
 Store dyes and paints in a safe place out of reach of children.
PATTERNS
A pattern is a template used to cut out textile items.
INFORMATION FOUND ON THE FRONT OF THE PATTERN ENVELOPE

 Company name e.g Mc Call's, Vogue, Simplicity.

 Pattern number or style number.
 Pattern size range e.g size 8-10-12
 Coloured pictures of Style variation of the garment
 Accessories that go with the style e.g hair ribbons, belts, beads etc.

INFORMATION FOUND AT THE BACK OF THE PATTERN ENVELOPE

 Identification information (company name and pattern number)

 Black and white diagrams of Style variations and some fashion details such as pockets,
zips
 Suggested fabrics suitable for the styles and their quantities..
 Notions. These are extras needed to complete the garment, eg buttons, zippers, thread,
etc.
 Chart of different sizes.
 Finished garments measurements.
INFORMATION FOUND ON THE INSTRUCTION SHEET

 Identification information (company name and pattern number)

 Page number
 Drawings of front and back view for each style.
 A list of pattern pieces needed for each view, i.e. which letters are required.
 Body measurements chart
 Information on how to prepare the pattern.
 Cutting and marking information.
 Diagrams that show laying out of pattern pieces on the fabric.
 General sewing information, e.g. size of seam allowance.
 Step by step directions on how to join the pieces to make the item.
INFORMATION FOUND ON PATTERN PIECES

 Pattern name such as sleeve.

 Section of a garment, e.g. front, back or side.
 Number of pieces to cut.
 Identification information (company name and pattern number)
 Pattern size(s)
 Pattern markings
PATTERN MARKINGS AND HOW THEY ARE USED
PATTERN MARKING AND DESCRIPTION USE
Straight grain/Grain line It is placed parallel to the selvedge when
(a bold, solid straight line with pointed arrows cutting for the garment to hang /drape well.
at the ends)
Place on fold The points of the arrows are placed on the
(a curved line with an arrow at each end) folded edge of the fabric so that the cut fabric
piece is double the pattern piece.
Notches They are used to match sections of an item
(these are triangular or diamond shaped that should be joined together.
symbols extending from the cutting line)
Cutting line It indicates where to cut the fabric.
(a solid line that runs along the outside of the
pattern piece)
Stitching line It indicates where to sew when joining
Aken lines which are normally 1.5cm from sections of the item.
cutting line)
Dart It is used to indicate where the dart should be
(thin solid lines that meet at a point) placed (positioned) during construction of the
item.
Lengthening and shortening lines. (two They indicate where the pattern can be cut
parallel lines) and opened up to make it longer or shorter.
(alter its length).
Position Circles, dots or squares They indicate where things like buttons, zips,
loops etc should be placed during
construction
Other solid lines within pattern piece They indicate sections of pattern pieces,
buttonholes, waistline, hipline, etc.

PREPARING THE PATTERN BEFORE LAYING AND CUTTING OUT

 Identify and separate the pattern pieces for the style to be made from the rest.
 Iron the pattern pieces to flatten or smoothen them.
 Study the pattern instruction sheet to see how the pattern pieces are to be laid out.
PREPARING THE FABRIC BEFORE CUTTING OUT

 Prewash the fabric to prevent further shrinking in cotton fabrics.

 Press the fabric to remove creases.
 Check if the fabric is on grain by placing the selvedges on top of each other for the
clothes to hang well when worn.
 If the fabric is off grain, straighten it by the following ways;
 Fold the fabric in half lengthwise with someone holding two corners. Pull gently
diagonally until it is straight.
  Snip edges of a selvedge with scissor. Pick up a crosswise thread and pull it until getting
to the other selvedge. Cut along the line formed by the pulled thread.
 Snip edges of a selvedge with a scissor and tear the fabric from selvedge to selvedge.
 Cut along a pattern that is clearly seen, e.g a stripe on some fabrics.
 Identify faults and mark them so that the faulty parts are not included as part of the
garment e.g. stains, holes etc.
LAYING OUT THE PATTERN PIECES ON FABRICS

 Study the pattern markings on the pattern pieces.

 Fold the fabric with the right side together and the selvedges matching.
 Place the fabric on a smooth flat surface.
 Layout and pin larger pieces first and then the smaller ones.
 Place the grainline an all pattern pieces parallel to the selvedge and pin.
 Place pattern pieces with place on fold symbol along the folded edge of the fabric and
pin.
 Place all pattern pieces as close together as possible without overlapping the cutting
line.
 Place the pins perpendicular to the cutting edge inside the cutting line.
CUTTING OUT THE FABRIC

 Before cutting out, cross check laying out of all pattern pieces.
 Use sharp dressmaker's scissors.
 Hold down the pattern with the free hand.
 Cut with long even strokes to get a smooth cut edge.
 Do not lift the fabric; instead move around the table as much as possible.
 Cut around the notches using the tip of the scissors.
 Leave the pattern pieces pinned on the fabric after cutting.
TRANSFERRING PATTERN MARKINGS
All pattern markings should be transferred to the fabric before removing the pattern pieces. The
following methods can be used;

 Using dress maker's carbon paper and tracing wheel: this is suitable for transferring
darts, pleat lines and centre lines.
 Using tailor's tacking.