Fabric Science

Knitwear Technology

Milonee Tank
BFT 2
 Fabric science

Introduction to Knitwear Technology

Milonee Tank | BFT-2

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1. Introduction to Knitting:

Knitting is the second most popular technique of fabric or garment formation by inter-looping
one or one set of yarns. Continuous length of yarn is converted into vertically intermeshed loops
either by hand or by machine. The term "Knitting" has been evolved from the Saxon word
'Cnyttan' which in turn was derived from the ancient Sanskrit word 'Nahyat' [1]. According to the
direction of movement of yarn during loop formation, knitting can be classified as weft knitting
and warp knitting. Out of two types of knitting, weft knitting is widely used in India and abroad.

2. History of knitting:

The concept of knitting for converting yarn in to fabric/garment was visualized long back may be
about 3000 years ago and the same was implemented by some curious and innovative minds
using two sticks or needles. Such technique is of course known as hand knitting but there is no
record of the name of the inventor of knitting. Hand knitting is a slow process and still in practice.
Rev. William Lee started to develop a frame around 1561 for continuing knitting process at a
faster rate using a large number of needles. At the end of 3 years' excessive study, patience and
toil, Lee was enabled to make a course or knit upon the frame and that too at a speed of 600
loops per minute using worsted yarns. The frame was further perfected and speed of loop
formation was increased before its commercial appearance in 1589.

3. Knitting mechanism:

For knitting a fabric, only one or one set of yarns is to be supplied to the knitting machine.
Depending upon the direction of movement of yarn during loop formation with relation to the
direction of fabric formation, knitting technique is classified as warp knitting and weft knitting.
The position of yarn(s) with respect to the length of the resultant fabric.

Weft knitting machines produce four basic knitted structures such as plain, rib, interlock and purl.
Plain structure is produced in single jersey machine whereas the other three are produced in
double jersey machines.

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 4. Knitting machines:
Knitting machines are classified into the following types:

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  Weft knitting machines

The weft knitting machinery may generally be classified as flats and circulars. This classification is based
on their frame design and needle bed arrangement. Weft knitted fabrics can be created in either tubular
or flat form.

-Weft knitted fabric structures

Plain, rib, interlock and purl are four primary structures from which all weft knitted fabrics are derived.

 Warp knitting machine

Warp knitting systems are broadly classified into Tricot and Raschel machines. There are fundamental
differences between these two machines.

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 5. Knits vs wovens:

Knits are fabrics that are made with interlocking loops of one piece of thread. The thread is attached to a
needle, which then loops up and down on a knitting machine to create the interlocking loops. Knits have
sharper edges because they are created from one thread; this means the fabric can unraveled entirely if
one does not use glue to secure it on the cut edge.

In contrast to knits, woven fabrics are created by weaving multiple threads over and under each other. In
woven fabrics, threads create a criss-cross pattern that forms the surface of the textile. Because the
fabric comprises two interlocking threads, a woven textile is known to be tougher and more durable than
a knit. For that reason, clothing or soft goods that undergo a lot of wear and tear are often woven to
endure usage. While knits are created on a knitting machine, woven fabrics are created on a loom—a
larger and bulkier piece of equipment.

 Comparing Woven Textiles to Knits:

Woven cloth and knitted cloth have some key differences that can make them best suited to specific
needs.

-Elasticity & Stretch:

Knitted fabrics are much more elastic and have more give than woven fabrics. This elasticity allows for
more freedom of movement. For this reason, clothes that are worn daily or for movement-centric
activities are usually made from knits. Woven fabric is less giving or stretchy, and it is often better suited
for more formal clothing or for pieces that won't be subjected to a lot of movement.

-Temperature:

Along with elasticity, knitted fabrics tend to be cooler and more breathable than woven fabrics. Because
the interlocking loops also allow for more space in the fabric, air can flow more easily through them. In
woven fabrics, the threads or yarn are pulled more tightly together as they're woven over and under each
other. This means they provide more insulation than knits. This is also what makes wovens better at
blocking out the wind.

-Ability to recover:

Finally, knitted fabrics recover from folding and wrinkling more easily than woven fabrics. This means
they are better for clothes you would keep folded, in drawers, or those you'd want to pack in suitcases or
bags and bring with you when you travel. It is easier to end up with a piece of woven fabric that appears
wrinkled and creased than it is to have a knit fabric with lasting wrinkles or fold marks. Thus, woven fabric
is better for clothes that you will wear for special occasions or will hang in a closet, like formalwear or
winter outerwear.

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 6. Advantages of Knits

Knitted fabrics also have many advantages, including:

-Wrinkle-resistant: Knitted fabrics can return to their original shape even after being crushed.

-Elastic: Knitted fabrics are stretchy and won't tear.

-Lightweight: Knitted fabrics are comfortable and won't weigh you down.

-Comfortable: Knitted fabrics are soft and can be worn on any occasion.

-Need little care: Knitted fabrics require little upkeep.

-Available in all colors: Knitted fabrics can be dyed in any color.

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 7. Uses of knits

Home furnishing Baby items

Activewear Accesories

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 8. New developments in knitwear technology

-Warp knitting: A more recently developed process that uses complex machine technology to produce
fabric with different characteristics and applications.

-Knitted fabric composites: A new branch of fabric-reinforced composites that uses yarns laid into a 3D
stitching system.

-Seamless technologies: In sportswear, 3D whole garment development systems allow for yarn design,
visual knitting, and fabric simulation in one seamless design process.

-Robotics: Has been introduced into the flat knitting process.

-Adaptions to knitting machines: Allows machines to knit unconventional materials like foils and rigid
yarns.

-Computer-aided design: Has been used in knitting technology since the 1980s.

-Whole Garment knitting: Introduced by Shima Seiki in 1995, this new form of knitting has over 200
patents.

References:

https://www.masterclass.com/articles/knit-vs-woven-learn-how-to-identify-the-two-fabric-types

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https://www.knittingindustry.com/technical-textiles/world-changing-textile-innovations/

Knitting Technology by David J Spencer

Fundamental advantages in Knitting technology by Sadhan C Roy