The Pattern Pages I36 2024
The Pattern Pages I36 2024
3
FREE PATTERNS
& PROJECTS
LEARN to SEW
Get to Know your Sleeve Types
Trouser Full Seat Adjustment
Sew with Sweatshirt Fabrics
WWW.THEPATTERNPAGES.COM
A NEW YEAR OF SEWING
I’m not one for making New Year’s resolutions mainly because comfortable to wear and create an elongated silhouette. These
I’m not very good at keeping them either! However this year, include effortlessly stylish waist pleats and a choice of an easy
I have resolved to commit to sewing a little more sustainably side closure or centre fly-front zip! Ruth Collins also joins us
and using the fabrics that I already have. Our wonderful cover this time to talk about trouser fitting and how to achieve a full
- The Everyday Jacket, I made from a single duvet cover I was seat adjustment, which is a common fitting problem when it
reluctant to part with of because of the beautiful print. I love the comes to trouser making.
idea of it having a new lease of life as a jacket that will be worn Carrying on our series of statement styles – we look at sleeve
time and time again. I’d love to hear from you if you make it styles and how they can completely transform the a garment.
using fabrics or textiles you already have! In 10 Minutes With, Fionna Hanna talks about her career change
I’m also thrilled to be able to offer our readers the Shadi to design fun adorable patterns for children.
Skirt, thanks to the lovely Saara and Laura Huhta from If you love fashion from the past, do check out the Decades
Named Clothing. This knit pencil skirt is so comfortable of Style story about the Fashion Museum in Bath which has
to wear, very easy to sew and will be perfect for lots opened its online doors to showcase British fashion from the
of occasions. I’m certainly going to be making more! 1970s and '80s. As usual, I have run out of room to mention all
Does making trousers fill you with trepidation? Why not have the great content that we have this time so grab a cuppa and
a go at the Wide-legged Trousers from Oda Stormoen and see for yourself…
Kristin Vaag, you might surprise yourself! I love that they are
Happy sewing!
ie x
Jul Julie Bonnar | Editor | julie@thepatternpages.com
Hooked on Books 46
We Love PEACH FUZZ! 20 Get your sewing mojo back with a good book!
The Pantone colour of the year 2024
Pattern Preview 52
New pattern releases hot off the press!
STYLISH SEWING
Fancy Pants! 10
Key trouser trends that you will want to sew this season!
HĢőĂäġĆààěä 40
The best coats for in-between days
Guy Style 82
Stylish men’s coats and trousers to stand out from the crowd!
LEARN TO SEW
;ŖěěäÁőàĔŖʼnőġäĢő 14
Ruth Collins explains how to achieve better trouser fitting for
your next pair of trousers
ūäÁőʼnĂĆŅőĆĢú 28
We share our top tips for this fabric!
PROJECTS
`ääőĂä'ŪäŅűàÁűUÁÚėäő 34
This raglan sleeve jacket is perfect for double-sided fabrics!
©ĆàäͿěäúŅĩŖʼnäŅʼn 76
Make this pair of trousers with an easy side closure or a
centre-front fly-front zip - you choose!
ON OUR
RADAR
Things we thought you might like to know…
A RELAUNCH!
Made Label has relaunched its website along with its
sewing patterns. The pattern brand has introduced a curvy
range to its collection as well as projector file formats! All
its patterns are available in sizes Misses 4-18 and Curvy
16-30 (AU/UK). Each size range is fit independently to
make sure that the design best accentuates the beautiful
body shapes within that range. The base patterns are fit
on models who are 5ft 3in but also with a B bodice cup
size (not to be confused with bra sizes).
www.madelabel.co/collections/all
HEDGEROW COUTURE
After the death of his wife, Textile Artist, Allan Brown spent seven
years making a nettle dress by hand from the fibre of locally foraged
stinging nettles with his faithful dog by his side near his home. His
story is told in a short docu-film that lasts just over an hour where he
speaks about the rich symbolism of taking something that is a source
of pain, stripping it of its sting and reshaping and repurposing it into
a thing of beauty.
The process was labour-intensive and sensitively captured by
filmmaker Dylan Howitt. Starting with gathering bushels of the
plant from the woods, spinning the fibres of the stalks into thread,
weaving the thread into a rough-hewn fabric and finally sewing it
into a beautiful dress.
www.nettledress.org/watch
fancy pantsKey trouser trends that you will want to sew this season!
Elevate your trouser-making with the Clara Pants. Make in fabrics with a slight stretch, this ankle-
skimming trouser has all the classic details including belt loops, button and zipper fastening with
flap underneath. The pockets are cleverly hidden in the side seams.
rise that tapers to a slightly cropped hem, up or down and are destined to be the
just choose between turn-up or plain hems. pair that you choose for both work and
With patch pocket options galore - the the weekend. This high-waisted pattern
FU L L S EAT AD J US T M E N T 2 S IZ ES B I GGER
Here, we compare the result of the pattern before (pink) and after
(green) the ‘full seat’ modification. Extra room has been provided
for the fuller bottom. The crotch seam is now more angled, which
In a standard full seat adjustment – a box around the
makes sense as it now incorporates a dart and is also very slightly
crotch point is cut on the grain and extended by 1in or
longer to go over the larger area.
more. The crotch seam line is redrawn and blended back
However, the altered angle of the centre back cut could impact
to the original position at the waistline and the inseam is
the other shaping elements of the pattern and distort the overall
blended back to the original above the knee.
architecture of the trouser when it is sewn to the front. The stress
wrinkles may have diminished because there is more room for the
fuller bottom but the overall fit will not have improved and perhaps
even a new issue emerges.
If we need more fabric for a fuller bottom, why not select a larger
pattern size? Comparing our ‘full seat adjusted’ pattern (green)
with the multi-size pattern shown here, we can now select the
size closest to the hip circumference as we know we need at the
derriere (orange) which happens to be a couple of sizes larger than
the size originally selected (pink).
However, we only need this larger size around the rear end, so we
can adjust the pattern back to the original size along the side seam
and increase the uptake of the darts as needed.
LEA RN TO S E W
The final pattern shown here has the same waist and hem
opening as the original, but more room for the bottom and,
importantly, it is not distorted. The problem has been solved
by taking advantage of the multi-sized pattern, selecting an
appropriately larger size and narrowing the side seam as
needed.
YOUR WARDROBE,
YOUR WAY! 8 of our favourite sewing patterns for beginners that you
can download and sew for free straightaway!
www.readytosew.fr/en
Anything But Basic Tee Mens
Do It Better Yourself Club
Valley Jumpsuit
Ready to Sew
T H E YEAR 2 024
COLO U R O F
What the Pantone Color Institute
Sewspiration has to say about it:
“ A velvety gentle peach that’s a comforting softly nestled between pink
and orange to express a yearning for community and cosiness during
uncertain times. This heartfelt peach hue brings a feeling of kindness
and tenderness, communicating a message of caring and sharing,
community and collaboration.
The ”
Pattern
This stunning cocktail dress is perfect to show your true colours at parties!
This princess-cut dress has a wrap of fabric at the bust for an off-the-
shoulder look. The dress closes with an invisible zipper, and a slit at the
centre back for ease of movement. Fit it to your body and it will give you a
‘Spanx’ effect to accentuate your curves.
A line-up of warm and cosy fabrics to see you through the coldest months
UÁÚńŖÁŅà
jersey
This fabric has all the benefits of
regular knitted jersey fabric but has
a design within the fabric structure
as opposed to being printed on the
fabric. It’s ideal for dresses, tops
and any garment where an added
texture is wanted. There are two
lovely Modelo collections - The
Kolsnap and the Barso. In this issue,
we’ve made the Shadi Skirt from
Named Clothing in the Barso Grey
Heathered Jacquard Cable Knit.
www.hantexonline.co.uk/modelo
S weatshirts
Sweatshirt is soft to the touch and is ideal for making cold-
weather garments like sweatshirts, hoodies, comfy joggers and
lounge sets. It comes in a wide range of plain and printed fabrics
ĩĢàäġÁĢà
but have you ever thought of creating your own printed designs?
CottonBee has a custom range of printed cotton loopback jersey that you
can print your own designs on. All its fabrics are OEKO-TEX certified.
www.ctnbee.com/en
REGU L ARS
Boiled
wool
This is one of our favourite fabrics to
sew with! Boiled wool isn’t as difficult
to work with as you think, and is perfect
for making coats and jackets for this
time of the year and beyond! Modelo’s
Cairn boiled wool is reversible so there's
no need for lining and being boiled
wool, there’s no hemming or seam-
neatening and is perfect for raw-edge
sewing. This collection has 19 stunning
colourways so there’s bound to be a
perfect colour for you!
www.hantexonline.co.uk/modelo
This cosy organic cotton plush fabric is so luxurious and is available in two colourways -
Buttercream and Dark Honey. Often this type of fabric is made from polyester, but Good
Plush
Fabric has sourced a 100% organic cotton version that’s super soft. The underside is also a
beautiful soft knit so you can choose which side you want to use! It’s ideal for lining jackets,
vests, baby outfits and mittens too!
www.goodfabric.co.uk
ĂäŅłÁ
ƉääÚä
Think of the thickest and most cosiest
fabric ever. Sherpa fabric is breathable,
very soft to the touch, comfortable,
cosy, warm, and perfect for cold
weather. Also known as teddy fabric as it
resembles a teddy bear’s fur, the texture
is similar to natural fur, but it’s artificially
processed. The fabric has two different
sides. One is woollen with a soft texture
and the other is smooth. The fabric is
made of synthetic fibres and is available
in a wide range of colours. Use Sherpa
to make the Sara Quarter-zip Pullover
from Kdornbier Designs shown here.
This pattern is available in sizes 0-24.
www.kdornbierdesigns.com
Visit www.hantexonline.co.uk/
macklin for more information
©'DHHa<
We share our top tips for sewing with this fabric!
LEA RN TO S E W
Loop-
backed Melange
irt
French Sweatsh
Jersey
Terry
Fleece-
backed
Sweatshirt
WHAT IS SWEATSHIRT FABRIC? EXTRA TIP: Always wash fabrics and garments separately
The sweatshirt family includes sweatshirt fleece-backed and especially fleece types as they produce lots of lint. Avoid the
loopback/French Terry and varies in thickness. Good quality tumble dryer, they dry very quickly without it!
sweatshirt has a smooth jersey flat rib on the right side and is soft
on the wrong side. For a fleece-backed sweatshirt, use a nap layout as it usually has a
French terry and loopback sweatshirt fabrics are slightly lighter directional pile. Stroke your fabric up and down. If it feels different
than fleece and as it sounds, the loops are visible on the wrong going in each direction, use a nap layout and make sure all your
side. Some sweatshirt fabrics can also be brushed-backed and pattern pieces face the same direction on your fabric.
ITS CHARACTERISTICS rounded tip that won’t snag the knitted structure of the fabric.
all-season versatility. They have a low stretch and are very stable, one for your fabric.
TIPS FOR SEWING machine evenly and keep pushing the fabric beyond the foot to
Like all knit fabrics, pre-wash these as they’re prone to shrinking prevent stretching.
so it’s a good idea to buy slightly more fabric than you need and
make your hems and sleeves a little longer. EXTRA TIP: Decrease the presser foot dial so there's more room
to accommodate the thicker fabric and easier to sew. Go slowly
Trim the middle seam where there are more than two adjoining
layers that overlap.
You can leave seams unfinished, but a zigzag stitch will prevent
the fabric from shedding. Use a triple stitch on stress areas like
underarms and side seams.
BEST-SUITED GARMENTS
These fabrics are ideal for casual clothes, loungewear and
activewear. As these fabrics have little stretch, use them with
looser-fitting or simple sewing patterns that you can get on and
off easily.
www.lamazifabrics.com
PATREON
CLUBS
Many pattern brands are setting these up, we look at the pros and cons of joining
How to download
the pattern:
Download this pdf pattern for free from
The Pattern Pages website.
www.thepatternpages.co.uk
THE
EVERYDAY
JACKET
The perfect layer for days when
you need a lighter jacket for those
chilly mornings
This stylish semi-fitted short pockets. The pattern is perfect
unlined jacket has a crew for making in double-sided
neckline, and raglan sleeves, quilted fabrics and repurposing
and is finished with contrasting fabrics like quilt covers and old
bias binding and optional patch blankets!
PR O J EC TS
MAKE IT DIFFERENT:
✖ To layer over jumpers we recommend sizing up
✖ Make in plain or print fabrics
✖ Experiment with the length
✖ Add bias tape to the pockets for extra wow!
NUMBER OF PAGES
✖ A4/Letter - print at home - 23 Pages
✖ A0/Copyshop - 1 page
Size chart
Size key 8
26
The Pattern Pages | 37
PR O J EC TS
Steps to sew
3⁄8in seam allowance
Key
Make the Jacket Sewing the Sleeves Pinning the Bias Binding
IN THE
middle
The best coats for in-between days - not too bulky
and great for travelling and running errands!
Da#΅HD'#
The Kelly Coat is a cosy midi wrap coat with a beautiful shawl collar, patch
pockets and belt. Sew this coat entirely without a sewing machine using a
simple embroidery technique. This slow-fashion project will take about eight
hours to complete and the pattern comes in sizes XS-XXXL.
www.julianamartejevs.com/en
www.hantexonline.co.uk/style-arc
''Ha<
DOUBLE
www.themakersatelier.com
ON THE
MOVE
www.theassemblylineshop.com
ggga'#
Named after the beautiful Dorset town, The Wimborne
Coat will add an injection of style while keeping you
warm on those chilly days. It’s fully lined and has stylish
dropped shoulders and a cocoon shape to ramp up the
style stakes. With a beautifully shaped collar travelling
down the front of the coat, and in-seam pockets to carry
the essentials, this coat is perfect for those wanting to
make their first coat. It’s available in sizes 6-26 (UK).
www.theavidseamstress.co.uk
DggZ
#¯
www.iampatterns.fr/en
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R EGU L AR S
Fionna Hanna
10Minutes With
www.fionnahanna.com | fionnahanna
You haven't always worked in the creative Who taught you to sew?
industry, what made you change direction? I’m a self-taught sewist. After getting my Biology degree, I needed
About 15 years ago, I was working in clinical a creative outlet so I started quilting. It was a great place to learn
research and I remember getting a pension because you can stick to straight lines. Then when I went back to
statement about how much there would be to retire in 25 years school for textiles, the formal sewing classes and work experience
and it felt like a threat! I thought I had to do something different, expanded my skills.
something creative and in 2010, I quit my job and went back to
school to study textiles. What do enjoy most about the creative process?
Each design starts from a little spark of an idea, whether it's
What was the main catalyst for becoming interested in a problem to solve or a need to put a ruffle on something. Every
designing textiles and children’s garments? time I start a new project it's a little bit of a mess. I’m never quite
I’ve always loved patterns and making things with my own two sure where it's going or if anything is going to come out of it. After
hands. Before having my daughter, I was making things to sell but many iterations, drafts and sometimes scrapping everything and
it just wasn’t sustainable. My wrist was getting more and more starting all over again, there’s a eureka moment where it starts
aggravated and painful. So I switched to designing patterns that to come together and I can say, “Oh ok, I have something here”.
would inspire other people to sew. I think children’s garments are That’s my favourite part. It doesn’t always happen but when it does
so fun to design and kids deserve something as unique as they are! it feels so special.
What would you say makes Tell us three fun facts about
your patterns stand out? yourself
My approach to sewing ♥ For most of my early
patterns is to give people school years, I went to
modern basics that they can school on a commune.
build a little one’s wardrobe
from just a few sewing ♥ I love running. It keeps
patterns. I hope to inspire me sane. I live in Canada
sewists to make some small so the weather isn’t
projects that are adorable and always cooperative
fun for children to wear. but I do try and run
outside all year round.
Where can sewists buy your
sewing patterns? ♥ I was having trouble
Sewists can find my work falling asleep at night so
and my sewing patterns on I started reading before
my website or through the bed. Now I read almost
stores that carry my patterns. every night and get
There’s a list on my website of through about 50 books
independent fabric stores. a year!
AS COSY AS IT IS
STYLISH!
We love this pattern, it’s versatile and can be made
with or without sleeves, and it offers a range of
finishes that will suit all tastes.
Bianca Jacket
Joli Lab
Sizes XS-XXL
www.jolilab.fr
A CLASSIC!
This body contouring T-shirt has five different necklines and four
different sleeve options that can be interchanged to make a T-shirt
for every season and occasion. Choose also between a full-length
hem or a cropped hem, this pattern has been designed for stretch
knit fabrics with at least 50% vertical and horizontal 4-way stretch.
Skyline Tee
Sew House Seven
Sizes 00-20 and 16-34
sewhouse7.com
ATTENTION
TO DETAIL
With side panels that run diagonally to
the front, this coat has an oversized
style. Make with ¾-length or long
sleeves and bound buttonholes. The
coat is lined and the pockets in the
front are closed by wide pocket flaps.
Tessa Coat
Schnittchen Patterns
Sizes 6-28 (UK)
www.schnittchen.com/en
UTILITARIAN
CHIC
This woven skirt is fitted through the waist
and hips and has a straight fit to the hem. It
has a button-front opening and belt loops.
There are three length options – mini, midi,
and maxi and the option to make with a belt
and pockets that feature inverted pleats.
Blair Skirt
True Bias
Sizes 6-30 (UK)
www.truebias.com
GIVES US A TWIRL!
Since we first saw this pattern we’ve been swooning over it! This classic semi-fitted dress
coat skims the waist and becomes a swishy skirt. It's part of a pattern family with the Eve
Top and Evelyn Dress! Other gorgeous details include deep pockets, classic cuffs, stand
collar and the diagonally cut back allows easy movement. Wear it as a dress or a coat, it’s
so stylish and practical!
Eve Dress
Stokx Patterns
Sizes 0-6, 3-9 and 6-12
www.stokx-patterns.com
Find the perfect coat or jacket pattern for your next project …
search by brand, garment type, fabric type, skill level or even season
Use the nd a stockist facility to support independent retailers and designers
Pattern Finder
KEEP YOUR
STUFF TIDY!
The beginning of the year is the ideal time for having a sort-
out in your sewing room! Here are some of our favourite
storage solutions for dressmakers!
S PEC IAL S
Store all those loose sewing notions, it’s made up of individual This is a great little holdall for sewing on-the-go, or for just sitting
caddy compartments that can be stacked into the wheelbase. next to your sewing machine to hold all those items you need
Keep adding the trays as your supplies grow to dizzy heights! to hand.
Keep your sewing notions within arm's reach but also tidy! Store Take the mystery out of storing your sewing machine needles.
marking tools, scissors, rulers, unpickers and small rotary cutters Label the sections of this cleverly designed container according
in an easy-to-grab upright position. The silicone pockets offer a to the needles you have and keep your part-worn needle safely
sturdy grip and it’s easy to keep clean. stored on the handy fuzzy dot to use again.
Designed with the quilter in mind but perfect for sewers too, this This sewing machine carry cases are specially designed to fit
cabinet is tailored to keep all your threads and fabric in order in most Singer, Janome, and Brother sewing machines safely and
drawers and half trays to make your next project a breeze! securely. The solid base protects the machine’s underneath and
the heavy-duty fabric cover will protect it from dust and damage.
Store pins and bobbins in this multi-purpose tool. The magnetic Store 10 thread spools and their matching bobbins in this pod. It
pincushion in the centre has a groove that makes it easy to grab stacks and goes in drawers or on a shelf. Made from silicone, it
your pins and the outside ring holds up to 30 bobbins. These grips threads and bobbins so they won’t fall out, even if you tip it
pieces are detachable so can also be used separately. upside down or shake it.
FABRIC WRAP BOARDS FROM £16.40 FELT NEEDLE CASE KIT £12
www.bestcraftorganizer.com www.corinnelapierre.com
Keep your fabric organised with these 5cm chipboard boards. You’ll love storing your needles in this timeless heirloom. Inspired
Just fold your fabric around and write on the board to keep by a traditional folk design, this kit includes everything you need
handy information. to make one delicately embroidered needle case.
Project:
The Shadi Skirt
from Named
Make this simple knit skirt from Named
Clothing. It’s perfect for beginners or those who
want a quick must-make for their wardrobe!
PR O J EC TS
Sizes:
4-28 (UK)
0-24 (US)
32-56 (EU)
Fabric suggestions:
Stable medium-weight knit fabrics with
40-50% stretch with a good recovery
like Ponte Roma or Rib Knit. Interfacing
should also possess the same amount
of stretch.
The fabric requirement includes a
5% allowance for shrinkage.
Prewash and iron all fabrics according to their washing instructions before cutting out. Soak interfacing
Cutting fabrics and let them air dry but don’t iron them.
Out & From main fabric: From interfacing
Prep ✖ 2 x front and back pieces ✖ 2 x front and back waistband
✖ 2 x front and back waistline (cut on the fold)
✖ Fold the fabric with the right sides together or if you’re cutting from a single layer of fabric – lay the fabric with the right
side up. Do the same for interfacing with glue sides together or glue side down for a single layer.
✖ Make sure the grainline arrows are parallel to the selvedge or fold.
✖ Transfer all the markings
✖ Cut your interfacing using the same pattern pieces but reduce the seam allowance to 2mm (1/16in) to avoid thick bulky
seams. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric using a pressing cloth in between your iron and the piece.
Steps to sew:
Seam allowances: 1cm (3⁄8in) seam entirely (A) or on heavier fabrics,
allowance unless otherwise stated. only interface the inner half of the
waistband (B).
Sew all plain seams using an overlocker/
serger unless otherwise specified in the
instructions. If you don’t have an overlocker,
you can instead sew the seams on a sewing
machine using a straight stretch stitch and
finish the seam allowances using a zigzag
stitch.
5. Hem the bottom of the skirt: 6. TIP: You can instead stitch the turn-
Overlock the hemline. Press the hem up using a cover stitch, or with a twin
to the wrong side by 3cm (1 1/8in), pin needle on your sewing machine. If
carefully and stitch using your sewing you wish to do this, don’t overlook the
machine’s stretch stitch. edge.
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WWW.NAMEDCLOTHING.COM
LEA RN TO S E W
SLEEVE LENGTHS
SLEEVE T YPES
BUT TERFLY
(FLUT TER)
DOLMAN
(BATWING)
JULIET
This traditional sleeve style is puffed at L ANTERN
KIMONO
the top but tapers down to a tighter fit at Fitted at the top, this sleeve goes into a
the bottom. It’s ideal for special occasion Inspired by the traditional Japanese styles – gather below the elbow and is finished with
garments such as wedding dresses or this loose, long and wide sleeve is a perfect a cuff at the wrist. It is usually full-length,
blouses and has buttons decorating the style for blouses, dresses, and robes and is but it can also be sewn shorter or three-
fitted part of the sleeve. accompanied by an oversized armhole. quarter in length.
OFF-THE-SHOULDER
MUT TON LEG (BARDOT)
This sleeve is more of a historical sleeve This short-fitted sleeve covers the shoulders RUFFLE
type and is named because it looks like a leg and ends just under the arm. Usually, there (FRILL)
of mutton with its fullness at the shoulder are separate pattern pieces but they can These are also called ruffled sleeves. They
and the top of the sleeve that tapers down also be part of the bodice. add volume to the sleeve extension and to
to the wrist.
the shoulder of a garment. The gathered
or ruffled part can be pleated or softly
gathered. The fabric will determine the
amount of gathering you can achieve with
this sleeve.
PETAL
PEASANT SLEEVES (TULIP)
This sleeve is also known as a batwing This sleeve style features an arm pattern
sleeve. It's cut with a deeper armhole that piece that extends past the shoulder to give
reaches down level with the waistline. This an oversized feel to the garment. It’s great
attached sleeve is cut all as one piece with for knit garments like T-shirts, sweaters and
the body and can be made long or short. dresses and is easy to sew. PUFF
As more fabric is required, dresses and tops This short sleeve is gathered into a narrow
with them tend to have centre back and cuff or finished with elastic for comfort.
front seams. These are ideal for dresses and tops.
SLIT
Also called open sleeves. These sleeves use
the same concept in different ways. Part of
RAGL AN the sleeve is open to show the arms of the
SLEEVELESS
This sleeve has a diagonal seam running wearer in a summery casual style. The slit Not every garment requires a sleeve but
from the shoulder into the armhole giving can be subtle or to the top of the shoulder. the armhole will still need a facing or bias
it a distinctive slanted seam line. It is often When made with bright or contrasting tape to neaten the armhole’s raw edge.
seen on T-shirts where the sleeve is made fabrics, this can be a dramatic look. The
from a contrasting colour. slits are vertically down the arms.
CAP HEIGHT
A measurement from the bicep to the centre
of the sleeve cap, which would be where the
shoulder line meets when sewn together.
ELBOW GRAINLINE
The point on the sleeve that’s level with This runs along the centre of the sleeve
the elbow. from the wrist at the bottom up to the top
of the cap.
SLEEVE CAP
The top part of the sleeve that curves from the
front underarm to the back underarm point.
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S T Y LIS H SEW IN G
THE EDIT
Statement Sleeves
r Dress from Joe B
am e row
y Dre ns
Da
Lo
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os
es
F lo
Look out for patterns with double and puff sleeves, sleeves made with a sheer or
r al
Flu
complementary fabric can elevate your chosen sewing patterns.
te S
le eve J
umper from
How the High Street is doing it?
Sleeve fashions come and go with the seasons but we’re seeing slightly longer and wider
Li ps
Lo y
sleeves on tops, shirts and jackets as well as dresses and blouses with grown-on sleeves and
nd
on
double-layered sleeves. Gathered at the shoulders is a popular look too.
www.hantexonline.co.uk/ponte-roma
www.lamazifabrics.com
www.wildlinens.com
ZäÁŅĢőĩäū Repurposing
Get to know your collar types How to start repurposing clothes you
Working with Corduroy don’t wear anymore
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* Content is subject to change and is just a guide
www.thepatternpages.com
Free
at t er n
P & 2-18
(US)
K)
-22 (U print-
Sizes 6 shop & A4
y
A0 cop at-home
WIDE
LEGGED
Trousers
Make this wide-legged pair of
trousers with an easy side closure
or a centre-front closure with a fly-
front zip - you choose!
How to download
the pattern:
Download this pdf pattern for free from
The Pattern Pages website.
www.thepatternpages.co.uk
PROJ EC TS
These wide-leg trousers are a timeless wardrobe classic that can to wear and create an elongated silhouette that suits most body
be worn for lots of occasions. We love that they are comfortable shapes and includes effortlessly stylish pleats at the waist!
This trouser pattern is just one of the projects that is featured in the book, Sew
Your Own Scandi Wardrobe by Oda Stormoen and Kristin Vaag. This book is full
of techniques and tips to get started sewing a Scandi-style wardrobe of clean,
simple lined garments for beginners and advanced sewers. All the projects featured
complement each other, allowing you to mix and match and create versatile outfits
suitable for everyday wear and special occasions.
Published by Quadrille Publishing, www.hardiegrant.com/uk
Steps to sew:
Seam allowances: 1cm (3⁄8in) seam allowance unless otherwise pattern onto the wrong side of the fabric. Fold the fabric
stated. with right sides together, aligning the two end points of
the dart. Pin along the dart, making sure the pin intersects
the marked line on both sides of the fabric. Position the
pin with its point facing towards the widest part of the
dart. Sew a straight line from the end of the dart down
to the point. Secure the thread at both ends of the dart.
3. Side closure: (Skip this step for a fly front zip) Place the zip
right side down on the left front piece with the edge of the
zip tape aligned with the edge of the fabric. The teeth of the
zip should start 1cm (3⁄8 in) from the top edge to allow for the
facing or waistband. Pin in place. Sew the zip tape to the fabric
using a zigzag stitch, but stop about 1cm (3⁄8 in) before reaching
the bottom of the zip pull. This makes it easier to make the
1. The pleat: Sew the pleats on the front pieces according to zip completely invisible later on. Fold out the zip teeth. Using
the markings on the pattern. The pleats are marked with two a straight stitch, sew along the crease of the zip. The zigzag
parallel lines at the top of the front piece. One line indicates stitch will help keep the zip tape in place as you sew. Stop
where to fold the fabric (fold line), while the other line shows sewing 1cm (3⁄8 in) above the zip pull. Place the other side of
where the folded edge should be placed. Generally, pleats the zip right sides together with the corresponding side of the
should always be folded towards the centre of the garment. garment. Repeat the same stitching process, ensuring to stop
at the same point as the other side for a neat zip placement.
2. The darts: Transfer the marking of the dart from the Close the zip and press well along the zip from both the right
PROJ EC TS
and wrong sides. Place the zip on the flap right side up, with the zip’s seam
4. Side closure: Place one front piece and one back allowance aligned with the left edge of the flap. Sew the zip
piece right sides together and sew the side seam. onto the flap with a 0.5cm (¼in) seam allowance. Open the
For an invisible zip - sew up to the bottom point of the zip on zip and place the flap, and right sides together on the right
the side with the zip. front piece with the short top edge of the flap aligned with the
top edge of the front piece. Sew with a 0.5 cm (¼ in) seam
For a fly front zip - the side seam should be fully sewn. allowance, on top of the seam made in step 2. Close the zip
Repeat for the other leg and press the seam open. when you have sewn a little over halfway. This will make it
Remember, if you want to add side pockets to the trousers), easier to sew past the zip pull. The zip is now sandwiched
you must sew them in when sewing the side seams. between two fabric pieces.
5. Inner seam: Place the pieces with right sides together again From the right side, press a small fold from the front piece
and sew the inner seam on each leg, then press the seam open. over the zip so it lies a few millimetres from the zip teeth. Use
the zip foot to topstitch along the folded edge. With the left
front piece right side up, place the facing on top, and right
sides together, with the short edge of the facing aligned with
the top edge of the front piece. Sew along the long edge of
the facing with a 1cm (3⁄8in) seam allowance. Press the facing
to the wrong side of the front piece and sew a visible topstitch
about 1-2mm (¹⁄₁₆in) from the fold to keep the facing on the
inside.
6. Fly front zip: (Skip this step if you have sewn an invisible zip
side closure earlier) Sew the fly piece between the two front
pieces. Fold the flap right sides together and sew along the
long side and the curved bottom edge with a 0.5cm (¼in)
seam allowance. Clip into the seam allowance at the curve,
turn the flap right side out and press. Topstitch along the
curved edge. Iron interfacing onto the back of the facing and
sew around the edge with an overlock or zigzag stitch. Place the left front piece on top of the right front piece with
the right sides together. Sew up to where the fly starts. This
Place the flap with the curved edge pointing to the right. will be the crotch seam for trousers. Finish the seam just
outside where you attached the facing (it can overlap by 1cm in place and press the seam allowance up towards the
(3⁄8in). Place the front piece right side up. Overlap the pieces waistband.
in the opening as the fly will sit when closed (the zip should 11. Turn the waistband to the right side. Topstitch along the folded
be hidden). Pin in place. edge of the waistband from the right side of the trousers.
Turn the garment inside out, pin the loose side of the zip to To create a side closure – As you reach the extension on the back
the facing, and sew it in place with a zipper foot. Make sure piece, fold the bottom edge by the seam allowance towards
you only sew through the facing and not the front piece. the wrong side to conceal the raw edge align the ends of the
From the wrong side, sew the facing to the front piece from waistband, and continue topstitching along the folded edge.
the wrong side using basting stitches about 1cm (3⁄8in) from
the edge of the facing (following the zigzag/overlock stitch 12. To hem the trousers by 1cm (3⁄8in) and then by 3cm (1¼in).
on the facing). Use this as a guide when you topstitch from
the right side. Pin the fly to the right front piece so that you
don’t sew through it when you sew the stitches in the next
step. Turn to the right side and topstitch close to the basting
stitch. Sew slowly around the curve to make it as accurate
and neat as possible. You can also sew an additional parallel
line of topstitching 0.5cm (¼in) inside the first line to make
the fly extra visible (as used on jeans) and remove the basting
stitches.
7. Turn one trouser leg right side out and place it inside the other
trouser leg so that the crotch curves match up. Make sure the
inner seam matches and sew along the crotch curve.
For an invisible zip – Sew the entire seam, and turn the
trousers inside out and press the curved crotch seam.
9. Using the seam allowance press along one side of the waistband 13. Buttonholes: For side closures, place the buttonhole on the
towards the wrong side. This will be the front of the waistband. waistband above the zip on the front piece. The waistband
extension on the back piece should be placed under the
10. Place the back of the waistband with the right side facing the buttonhole for the button.
wrong side of the trousers.
TIP: If you're working with a fly - The buttonhole should be
For a side closure - Pin the waistband to the top edge, starting placed where the fly overlaps when the zip is closed. Make
from the zip on the front piece. The waistband should extend sure to place the buttons to match the buttonhole.
about 4cm (½in) beyond the zip on the back piece.
őűěäőĂäʼnäőŅĩŖʼnäŅʼnūĆőĂŪÁŅĆĩŖʼnőĩłʼn
For a fly front zip - Pin the waistband to the top edge and from ÁĢàÁÚÚäʼnʼnĩŅĆäʼnőĩÚŅäÁőäàĆƅäŅäĢő
the fly flap around to the opposite side. Sew the waistband ěĩĩėʼnùĩŅàĆƅäŅäĢőĩÚÚÁʼnĆĩĢʼnͥ
Take control of your wardrobe, and sew your own clothes with Unlock your creativity with our easy-to-follow sewing patterns
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ST YLI S H S EW I N G
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Sizes 26-42
www.wardrobebyme.com
This Straight Cut Coat has special sleeve detailing where the front of the sleeve is raglan DP Studio
but the sleeve back is set-in. The coat stops above the knee and its straight cut lends it Sizes 44-58
a structured look. It closes with three buttons and has a subtly tailored collar. It looks www.dpstudio-fashion.com/en
fabulous in woollen fabrics.
The Renée Coat has been designed for woven fabrics such as cotton,
The Basil Trousers has a sleek profile which is perfect when oilskin, corduroy, wool and teddy. It features lots of inside and patch
seated or standing. They would be perfect for more formal pockets to store essentials whilst out and about plus a hidden zipper
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Credits - From left to right - Row 1 - 1. Catherine Buckley, about 1970-1979 Object Number: BATMC 2010.122, Given by Jaquie Arcus. 2. Laura Ashley, about
1978-1983 Object Number: BATMC 2000.416, Bequest from the Estate of Janet Arnold, 2000. Row 2 - 1. Bruce Oldfield, about 1980-1989 Object Number:
BATMC 2004.73, Given by Richard Lester, 2004. 2. AnnaBelinda, about 1987 Object Number: BATMC 2001.391&A, Given by Barbara Hill, 2001
This cream synthetic crepe on-the-knee dress features a surface
print of red/black flower print by Celia Birtwell. The dress has long
sleeves, a v-neck with seven fabric-covered buttons and loops on
the bodice central panel, waist and neck opening of cream crepe
with print panels on either side and fastens with a zip at the back.
This blue and brown striped tweed skirt has a wide tie-fastening
waistband and checked tweed waistcoat. Worn with a blue
moleskin jacket and trousers with grey elasticated ankles, blue
collarless shirt and brown striped shawl. Large round patch
pockets feature on the skirt, jacket, waistcoat and shirt.
Credits from left to right - Row 1 - 1. Ossie Clark, about 1970-1972 Object Number: BATMC 2016.535, Given by Ruzi Buchanan 2. Wendy Dagworthy, A/W 1982 Object Number: BATMC
2003.506, Donated by Wendy Dagworthy. Row 2 - 1. Gina Fratini, about 1970-1975 Object Number: BATMC 2005.2, Given by Richard Lester in 2005
Roll out the red carpet for this beautiful bright red woven silk This embroidered jacket and evening dress ensemble in bubblegum-
evening dress. The strapless bodice. long double skirt and draped pink wool and buttercup yellow silk jersey features a high square
panel add to its glamorous look. This dress is also decorated with neckline, square-cut yoke, long puffed sleeves and one-button
broad panel black silk mix velvet and a large bow centre front. cuff. The jacket is decorated with yellow machine embroidery in
a large single-flower design and green and white chevron-striped
bound edging. Shown here worn with a long evening dress in
yellow silk jersey.
Credits from left to right - Row 1 - 1. Bellville Sassoon, 1974 Object Number: BATMC 2001.243toB, Given by Victoria Proes in 2001. 2. The Emanuels, about 1985-1989 Object Number:
BATMC 2011.138, Given by Richard Lester
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
EMILY BONNAR
RUTH COLLINS
AKA @ITHACAMAVEN
NICOLA SKOWRONEK
SHEEPERS
FIONA HANNA
FIONA HANNA PATTERNS
SEW YOUR OWN SCANDI WARDROBE BY ODA STORMOEN AND KRISTIN VAAG
QUADRILLE PUBLISHING
PRESS OFFICE
THE FASHION MUSEUM, BATH
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