FORMULATION GUIDELINES

Pickmulse – Encapsulation system

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION: Pickmulse is an O/W surfactant-free emulsifier which enables also the
creation of core-shell microcapsules for lipophilic compounds. This customizable encapsulation system
can help to protect lipophilic ingredient from oxidation, optimize ingredients skin feel or improve
spreadability of powder dispersions.
For any advice about the slurry composition details, please refer to the calculation tool.

INCI Name Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate

Appearance Fine white powder

HLB Value Non applicable

Classification Customizable encapsulation system

4 - 5%
Recommended
At 4%, Pickmulse allows encapsulation of up to 20% of lipophilic compounds.
dosage At 5%, Pickmulse allows encapsulation of up to 25% of lipophilic compounds.

STEP A: CREATION OF THE SLURRY (MICROCAPSULES SUSPENSION)

3.0 – 8.0
Recommended pH (pH<3.0 not tested. Risk of starch gelatinization beyond pH 8.0.)

1- Dispersion step (T<40°C*): Sprinkle Pickmulse into water under high shear
(rotor-stator) for 10 minutes to ensure the good individualization of the starch.
Process
*To prevent prematurated starch gelatinization process.
2- Emulsification step (T<40°C*): Pour the oil phase into the water phase under
high shear (rotor-stator) for 10 minutes.
3- Thermal treatment: Under moderate shear (maximum 300 rpm), heat the
Pickering emulsion between 55°C and 60°C and maintain homogeneity during
15 min (limit the water loss during this step).
4- Cooling step : maintain a homogenous suspension under moderate shear (tri-
blade or spiral/marine/anchor-blade) until cooling down to room temperature
(<35°C). Add the water loss.
09/2024
Note: This document is not intended for consumers. Information, suggestions and advices contained herein, including without limitation as to the composition or use of our products, are provided for information
purposes only based on our current state of knowledge and no warranty is given as to their accuracy, completeness or fitness for any purpose. Any person using our products or applying our suggestions or advices is
doing so at its own risk. No information, suggestion or advice set forth in this document shall be deemed a legal or regulatory advice and readers or users are not authorized to rely thereon. Readers or users wishing
to obtain legal or regulatory advices are invited to consult their own legal or regulatory advisors. No claim with respect to our products can be made by any person without our prior written approval, even though the
claim is set forth in this document or any other document originating from us. Any person using our products in the formulation of finished products is solely responsible for ensuring that the use made of our
products, the finished products marketed to consumers, the labeling, packaging and advertising materials related thereto as well as the claims made with respect to his finished products and/or our products comply
with all applicable laws and regulations. No license is given on any patent or other intellectual property rights as a result of the transmission of this document and no guarantee of non-infringement of third party
rights is hereby given by us. We hereby disclaim any warranty of suitability of our products for any purpose. Any user of our products shall himself determine their suitability for his intended use and, as the case may
be, obtain the required regulatory approvals for the commercialization of his finished products. Confidential
 FORMULATION GUIDELINES
Pickmulse – Encapsulation system
Actives All types of liquid lipophilic actives, pure or diluted into an
Compounds emollient.
(see « Formulation Tips All types of solid lipophilic actives solubilized into an
and Tricks »)
emollient (ex: ceramides, co-enzyme Q10)
All types of particles previously dispersed into an
emollient.

Oil phase All types (polar, non-polar, esters, vegetable oils...)

(see « Formulation Tips Preference for oil phases with an overall medium polarity
and Tricks »)
To work with solid or paste with a low melting point
(<35°C), heat the oil phase to a minimum to melt the
ingredients, cool it to 35-40°C, making sure that it is still
liquid and homogeneous, then emulsify, taking care not to
exceed 40°C.
Pigments/pearls • Iron Oxide
• Mineral

Compatibilities UV filters • Chemicals: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl

(see « Formulation Tips Triazine, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl
and Tricks »)
Methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl
Triazone, Octocrylene
• Physicals: Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide
Preservatives and • 1,2-Hexanediol • Pentylene Glycol
preservative • Caprylhydroxamic Acid • Phenethyl Alcohol
boosters • Chlorphenesin • Phenoxyethanol
(see « Formulation Tips • Ethylhexylglycerin • Phenylpropanol
and Tricks »)
• Glyceryl Caprylate • Potassium Sorbate
• Glyceryl • Salicylic Acid
Caprylate/Caprate • Sodium Anisate
• Lactobacillus Ferment • Sodium Benzoate
• Parabens • Sodium Levulinate
Antioxydants • Tocopherol
Electrolytes Up to 2% of monovalents could be present during slurry
formulation
Incompatibilities
• Actives solubilized into tensioactive compounds.
(cf. « Formulation Tips • Use of surfactant-based preservatives not recommended.
& Tricks »)

09/2024
Note: This document is not intended for consumers. Information, suggestions and advices contained herein, including without limitation as to the composition or use of our products, are provided for information
purposes only based on our current state of knowledge and no warranty is given as to their accuracy, completeness or fitness for any purpose. Any person using our products or applying our suggestions or advices is
doing so at its own risk. No information, suggestion or advice set forth in this document shall be deemed a legal or regulatory advice and readers or users are not authorized to rely thereon. Readers or users wishing
to obtain legal or regulatory advices are invited to consult their own legal or regulatory advisors. No claim with respect to our products can be made by any person without our prior written approval, even though the
claim is set forth in this document or any other document originating from us. Any person using our products in the formulation of finished products is solely responsible for ensuring that the use made of our
products, the finished products marketed to consumers, the labeling, packaging and advertising materials related thereto as well as the claims made with respect to his finished products and/or our products comply
with all applicable laws and regulations. No license is given on any patent or other intellectual property rights as a result of the transmission of this document and no guarantee of non-infringement of third party
rights is hereby given by us. We hereby disclaim any warranty of suitability of our products for any purpose. Any user of our products shall himself determine their suitability for his intended use and, as the case may
be, obtain the required regulatory approvals for the commercialization of his finished products. Confidential
 FORMULATION GUIDELINES
Pickmulse – Encapsulation system
• Any additional functional ingredient (gelling agents, surfactant-based
ingredients…) could interfere with the encapsulation process.
• Preservatives should be introduced before emulsification, except for
preservatives with strong surfactant properties notably Caprylyl Glycol (limited
compatibility), which should be introduced at the end of the formula. Some
preservatives impact the viscosity of the slurry and lead to a migration of free
starch and capsules by density without impact on their stability.
• Pickering emulsion performed with Pickmulse without suspending agent
presents typical key features :

Formulation Tips & Foaming Creaming Floculation aspect

Tricks These observations are normal and dissipate with thermal treatment.
• Thermal treatment is accompanied by a slight viscosity rise, controlled with
the addition of sodium chloride.
• In case of overheating during dispersion and emulsification (T>40°C), perform
these steps with a cold-water bath.
• Hot soluble solid actives and butters could be encapsulated. To do so, the oil
phase must be converted to liquid form, then cooled down and maintained at
a temperature below 35-40°C during emulsification. During this step, the oil
phase must remain liquid and homogeneous.

• Microcapsules are mainly constituted of

oil (d<1) and does not contain any
suspending agent: creaming phenomena
could occur. In case of pigments or mineral
sunscreen encapsulation, sedimentation
could occur. Oil microcapsules
Microcapsules of
pigment dispersion

• Slurry is controlled by:

• Centrifugation: allows to quickly check the encapsulation efficiency by a
low presence of free oil at the top.
• Microscopy: observation without a coverslip to distinguish free oil from
capsules, with a coverslip to take pictures, diluted with water to well-
observed individual microcapsules. In case of capsule deformation
between slide and coverslip, add larger volumes of diluted slurry and/or
observe quickly.
09/2024
Note: This document is not intended for consumers. Information, suggestions and advices contained herein, including without limitation as to the composition or use of our products, are provided for information
purposes only based on our current state of knowledge and no warranty is given as to their accuracy, completeness or fitness for any purpose. Any person using our products or applying our suggestions or advices is
doing so at its own risk. No information, suggestion or advice set forth in this document shall be deemed a legal or regulatory advice and readers or users are not authorized to rely thereon. Readers or users wishing
to obtain legal or regulatory advices are invited to consult their own legal or regulatory advisors. No claim with respect to our products can be made by any person without our prior written approval, even though the
claim is set forth in this document or any other document originating from us. Any person using our products in the formulation of finished products is solely responsible for ensuring that the use made of our
products, the finished products marketed to consumers, the labeling, packaging and advertising materials related thereto as well as the claims made with respect to his finished products and/or our products comply
with all applicable laws and regulations. No license is given on any patent or other intellectual property rights as a result of the transmission of this document and no guarantee of non-infringement of third party
rights is hereby given by us. We hereby disclaim any warranty of suitability of our products for any purpose. Any user of our products shall himself determine their suitability for his intended use and, as the case may
be, obtain the required regulatory approvals for the commercialization of his finished products. Confidential
 FORMULATION GUIDELINES
Pickmulse – Encapsulation system
STEP B: INTRODUCTION OF THE SLURRY INTO THE FORMULA ​
3.0 – 10.0
Recommended pH (pH values outside this range were not tested. A drift of pH can be observed for
the most basic pH.)

The slurry is added at the end of the formulation, when

cold. This step requires a moderate shear (tri-blade or
Process spiral/marine/anchor-blade) and a low speed (maximum
300 rpm) during 5 to 10 minutes.

Natural Gelling • Xanthan Gum

agents • Algin
(see « Formulation Tips • Carrageenans
and Tricks »)
• Cellulose derivatives
• Modified-starch derivatives
• Gelling-emulsifiers: Siligel , Ecogel

Synthetic gelling • Acrylates

agents • Taurates
(see « Formulation Tips • Carbomers
and Tricks »)

Emulsifiers • Lecithin derivatives

(see « Formulation Tips • Polyglycerol esters
and Tricks »)
• Sucro-esters
Compatibilities • Glucosides
• Ethoxylated

Preservatives and • 1,2-Hexanediol • Pentylene Glycol

preservative • Caprylhydroxamic Acid • Phenethyl Alcohol
boosters • Chlorphenesin • Phenoxyethanol
(see « Formulation Tips • Ethylhexylglycerin • Phenylpropanol
and Tricks »)
• Glyceryl Caprylate • Potassium Sorbate
• Glyceryl • Salicylic Acid
Caprylate/Caprate • Sodium Anisate
• Lactobacillus Ferment • Sodium Benzoate
• Parabens • Sodium Levulinate

Chelating agents • Citric Acid

and antioxidants • Tocopherol
09/2024

Note: This document is not intended for consumers. Information, suggestions and advices contained herein, including without limitation as to the composition or use of our products, are provided for information
purposes only based on our current state of knowledge and no warranty is given as to their accuracy, completeness or fitness for any purpose. Any person using our products or applying our suggestions or advices is
doing so at its own risk. No information, suggestion or advice set forth in this document shall be deemed a legal or regulatory advice and readers or users are not authorized to rely thereon. Readers or users wishing
to obtain legal or regulatory advices are invited to consult their own legal or regulatory advisors. No claim with respect to our products can be made by any person without our prior written approval, even though the
claim is set forth in this document or any other document originating from us. Any person using our products in the formulation of finished products is solely responsible for ensuring that the use made of our
products, the finished products marketed to consumers, the labeling, packaging and advertising materials related thereto as well as the claims made with respect to his finished products and/or our products comply
with all applicable laws and regulations. No license is given on any patent or other intellectual property rights as a result of the transmission of this document and no guarantee of non-infringement of third party
rights is hereby given by us. We hereby disclaim any warranty of suitability of our products for any purpose. Any user of our products shall himself determine their suitability for his intended use and, as the case may
be, obtain the required regulatory approvals for the commercialization of his finished products. Confidential
 FORMULATION GUIDELINES
Pickmulse – Encapsulation system
Electrolytes Up to 4% (monovalent and divalent)

Ethanol 96° Up to 5%

• Glycerin
Glycols
• Propanediol

Compatibilities
• Iron Oxide
Pigments/pearls
• Minerals

• Chemical: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl

Triazine, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl
Sunscreens
Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Homosalate
• Physical: Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide

Incompatibilities • Incompatibility with surfactants used in toiletries: capsule breakage

(cf. « Formulation Tips • Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer: heterogeneous texture
& Tricks ») • No other known incompatibilities to date with other ingredients

• The gelling/suspending network must be sufficiently effective to avoid any

phenomenon of capsule migration. However, a too high viscosity leads to the
rupture of the capsules when they are introduced into the formula.
Formulation Tips & • The amount of slurry to add should be subtracted from water formula. The
Tricks emulsifying system must be compatible with a concentrated process.
• Surface-based preservatives, particularly those containing Caprylyl Glycol,
can disrupt capsule integrity. Care should be taken in this case, and the
percentage should probably be limited.

Textures & • Fluids

applications • Creams

09/2024
Note: This document is not intended for consumers. Information, suggestions and advices contained herein, including without limitation as to the composition or use of our products, are provided for information
purposes only based on our current state of knowledge and no warranty is given as to their accuracy, completeness or fitness for any purpose. Any person using our products or applying our suggestions or advices is
doing so at its own risk. No information, suggestion or advice set forth in this document shall be deemed a legal or regulatory advice and readers or users are not authorized to rely thereon. Readers or users wishing
to obtain legal or regulatory advices are invited to consult their own legal or regulatory advisors. No claim with respect to our products can be made by any person without our prior written approval, even though the
claim is set forth in this document or any other document originating from us. Any person using our products in the formulation of finished products is solely responsible for ensuring that the use made of our
products, the finished products marketed to consumers, the labeling, packaging and advertising materials related thereto as well as the claims made with respect to his finished products and/or our products comply
with all applicable laws and regulations. No license is given on any patent or other intellectual property rights as a result of the transmission of this document and no guarantee of non-infringement of third party
rights is hereby given by us. We hereby disclaim any warranty of suitability of our products for any purpose. Any user of our products shall himself determine their suitability for his intended use and, as the case may
be, obtain the required regulatory approvals for the commercialization of his finished products. Confidential