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Coast PDF

The document provides detailed explanations of coastal processes and features, including constructive and destructive waves, types of coasts, coastal erosion methods, and coastal management strategies. It describes the formation of geological structures such as caves, arches, stacks, and stumps, as well as the process of longshore drift and the formation of spits, salt marshes, and tombolos. Diagrams are suggested to illustrate these concepts, emphasizing the interactions between waves and coastal landforms.

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Yusra Yusuf
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8 views3 pages

Coast PDF

The document provides detailed explanations of coastal processes and features, including constructive and destructive waves, types of coasts, coastal erosion methods, and coastal management strategies. It describes the formation of geological structures such as caves, arches, stacks, and stumps, as well as the process of longshore drift and the formation of spits, salt marshes, and tombolos. Diagrams are suggested to illustrate these concepts, emphasizing the interactions between waves and coastal landforms.

Uploaded by

Yusra Yusuf
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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1. Draw, label, and annotate a diagram of a constructive wave and a destructive wave.

Answer:

- Constructive wave:

- Label: Low frequency, gentle slope, strong swash, weak backwash.

- Annotation: Constructive waves build up beaches by depositing material due to a strong


swash and weak backwash.

- Destructive wave:

- Label: High frequency, steep slope, strong backwash, weak swash.

- Annotation: Destructive waves erode coastlines by removing material due to strong


backwash and weak swash.

2. Define discordant coasts and concordant coasts.

Answer:

- Discordant coast: A coastline where different rock types are aligned perpendicular to the coast,
creating headlands and bays.

- Concordant coast: A coastline where rock layers run parallel to the shore, often resulting in
fewer coastal features like bays and headlands but seen in coves.

3. State the four types of coastal erosion and outline how each works.

Answer:

- Hydraulic action: Waves force air into cracks in rocks, causing pressure that breaks the rock
apart.

- Abrasion: Waves throw sediment at the cliff, wearing it away like sandpaper.

- Attrition: Rocks and pebbles collide, breaking into smaller, smoother pieces.

- Solution: Acids in seawater dissolve soluble rocks like limestone.

4. Draw, label, and annotate a diagram of headlands and bays.

Answer:
- Label: Headlands (resistant rock), bays (weaker rock), wave energy concentration on
headlands, wave refraction.

- Annotation: Bays form in areas of softer rock eroded more quickly than harder rock, which
remains as headlands. Wave refraction focuses energy on headlands, eroding them faster.

5. Explain in steps how caves, arches, stacks, and stumps are formed.

Answer:

1. Cave: Hydraulic action and abrasion erode a weakness in a headland, forming a cave.

2. Arch: Further erosion deepens the cave, cutting through the headland to form an arch.

3. Stack: The roof of the arch collapses due to gravity, leaving a stack.

4. Stump: The stack is eroded by waves, eventually collapsing into a stump.

6. State the types of coastal management strategies and explain how they work.

Answer:

- Groyne: Structures built perpendicular to the coastline, trapping sand to prevent longshore drift
and widening beaches.

- Gabion: Wire cages filled with rocks, placed along cliffs to absorb wave energy and reduce
erosion.

-Sea wall: Concrete barriers that reflect wave energy, protecting the coast from erosion.

- Rock armour: Large boulders placed at the base of cliffs to dissipate wave energy.

-Beach nourishment: Adding sand to beaches to replace eroded material, protecting the coast.

- Managed retreat: Allowing certain areas to flood, reducing pressure on more valuable land.

7. Define and outline the process of longshore drift.

Answer:

- Definition: The transportation of sediment along a coast by wave action.

- Outline: Waves approach the coast at an angle due to prevailing winds, pushing material up
the beach (swash). The backwash pulls the material down the beach at a right angle, gradually
moving sediment along the shore.

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8. Draw, label, and annotate a diagram of a spit and a salt marsh.

Answer:

- Label: Spit (extension of the beach), salt marsh (behind the spit), longshore drift, sheltered
water.

- Annotation: A spit forms when longshore drift transports material past a headland. In the
sheltered area behind the spit, salt marshes form due to low-energy conditions where sediment
is deposited.

1. Draw, label, and annotate a diagram of a tombolo.

Answer:

• Label: Tombolo (sand or shingle bar), island, mainland, longshore drift,


deposition.

• Annotation: A tombolo is a depositional landform where sediment is deposited by


longshore drift, connecting an island to the mainland. The sheltered water behind the tombolo
allows sediment to accumulate, forming the land bridge.

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