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lecture_06_slides

The document discusses wave kinematics, focusing on particle velocities, accelerations, and pressure fields of progressive and standing waves. It derives equations for particle velocities and accelerations using small amplitude wave theory and the Bernoulli Equation for pressure fields. The document concludes by detailing the characteristics of standing waves formed by two progressive waves moving in opposite directions.

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eberber05
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3 views

lecture_06_slides

The document discusses wave kinematics, focusing on particle velocities, accelerations, and pressure fields of progressive and standing waves. It derives equations for particle velocities and accelerations using small amplitude wave theory and the Bernoulli Equation for pressure fields. The document concludes by detailing the characteristics of standing waves formed by two progressive waves moving in opposite directions.

Uploaded by

eberber05
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 12

WAVE KINEMATICS

Bilge TUTAK
November 03, 2020

1 / 12
WAVE KINEMATICS
After developing the small amplitude wave theory, we can now use the properties of
the wave solution to develop the wave kinematics, namely - Wave particle velocities
u, w, - Pressure caused by the wave (hydrostatic and dynamic pressure).

2 / 12
PARTICLE VELOCITY AND ACCELERATIONS OF
A PROGRESSIVE WAVE
The uid particles under a wave moves with certain velocities and have acceleration.
Since we developed the small amplitude wave theory using the Laplace Equation, we
can use the same Velocity Potential idea to back calculate the uid particle velocities.

H g cosh [k(h + z)]


ϕ = − sin (kx − σt)
2σ cosh (kh)

If we substitute the de nition of velocity potential in;

∂ϕ H gk cosh [k(h + z)]


u = − = cos (kx − σt)
∂x 2σ cosh (kh)

Where the velocity maximum is at either at wave crest or through (in opposite
directions).

3 / 12
If we calculate the x-direction acceleration,

∂u H gk cosh [k(h + z)]


= sin (kx − σt)
∂t 2 cosh (kh)

Similarly;

∂ϕ H gk sinh [k(h + z)]


w = − = sin (kx − σt)
∂z 2σ cosh (kh)

Where the velocity maximum is at η = 0 .

4 / 12
If we calculate the z-direction acceleration,

∂u H gk sinh [k(h + z)]


= − cos (kx − σt)
∂t 2 cosh (kh)

As you can deduce from the equations, the crest of a standing wave won’t propagate.

5 / 12
Particle velocities are shown in the graph.

Particle Velocities for a progressive wave(Taken from Dean and Dalrymple, 1994)

6 / 12
PRESSURE FIELD OF A PROGRESSIVE WAVE
Using the Bernoulli Equation we can obtain the Pressure eld under a progressive
wave;

P ∂ϕ
= −gz + ⟹ P = −ρgz + ρgηKp (z)
ρ ∂t  
Static Pressure Dynamic Pressure

Where ** Dynamic Pressure Response Factor ** is de ned as,

cosh [k(h + z)]


Kp (z) =
cosh (kh)

7 / 12
STANDING WAVES
Standing wave is a special kind of wave formed by two progressive waves propagating
in the opposite directions.

H g cosh [k(h + z)]


ϕ1 = − sin (kx − σt)
2σ cosh (kh)

H g cosh [k(h + z)]


ϕ2 = − sin (kx + σt)
2σ cosh (kh)

8 / 12
If we combine these two velocity potentials;

H g cosh [k(h + z)]


ϕstanding = − [sin (kx − σt) + sin (kx + σt)]
2σ cosh (kh)

H g cosh [k(h + z)]


ϕstanding = − [sin kx cos σt − cos kx sin σt + sin kx cos σt +
2σ cosh (kh)

H g cosh [k(h + z)]


ϕstanding = − [2 sin kx cos σt]
2σ cosh (kh)

9 / 12
Finally we found the velocity potential of a standing wave to be;

H g cosh [k(h + z)]


ϕstanding = − sin kx cos σt
σ cosh (kh)

This shows us that the height of the standing wave is twice the height of a progressive
wave.
We can calculate the surface elevation η of a standing wave either by using the
Kinematic Free Surface Boundary Condition using time derivative of velocity potential,
or we can similarly combine surface elevation function of two progressive waves
moving in opposite direction;

H
η1 = cos (kx − σt)
2

H
η2 = cos (kx + σt)
2

10 / 12
If we combine these two surface elevations;

H
ηstanding = [cos (kx − σt) + cos (kx + σt)]
2

H
ηstanding = [cos (kx) cos (σt) + sin (kx) sin (σt) + cos (kx) cos (σt) − sin (kx
2

H
ηstanding = [2 cos (kx) cos (σt)]
2

Finally we found the velocity potential of a standing wave to be;

ηstanding = H cos (kx) cos (σt)

11 / 12
Similarly, we can derive the particle velocities under a standing wave using the
velocity potential-velocity de nition.
Particle velocities for a standing wave are shown in the graph.

Particle Velocities for a standing wave (Taken from Dean and Dalrymple, 1994)

12 / 12

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