(Ebook) Insight Guides Explore Florence by Insight Guides ISBN 9781839051524, 1839051523 Download
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How To Use This E-Book
This Explore Guide has been produced by the editors of Insight
Guides, whose books have set the standard for visual travel guides
since 1970. With top-quality photography and authoritative
recommendations, these guidebooks bring you the very best routes
and itineraries in the world’s most exciting destinations.
Best Routes
The routes in this book provide something to suit all budgets, tastes
and trip lengths. As well as covering the destination’s many classic
attractions, the itineraries track lesser-known sights, and there are
also excursions for those who want to extend their visit outside the
city. The routes embrace a range of interests, so whether you are an
art fan, a gourmet, a history buff or have kids to entertain, you will find
an option to suit.
We recommend reading the whole of a route before setting out. This
should help you to familiarise yourself with it and enable you to plan
where to stop for refreshments – options are shown in the ‘Food and
Drink’ box at the end of each tour.
Introduction
The routes are set in context by this introductory section, giving an
overview of the destination to set the scene, plus background
information on food and drink, shopping and more, while a succinct
history timeline highlights the key events over the centuries.
Directory
Also supporting the routes is a Directory chapter, with a clearly
organised A–Z of practical information, our pick of where to stay while
you are there and select restaurant listings; these eateries
complement the more low-key cafés and restaurants that feature
within the routes and are intended to offer a wider choice for evening
dining. Also included here are some nightlife listings, plus a handy
language guide and our recommendations for books and films about
the destination.
Maps
All key attractions and sights mentioned in the text are numbered and
cross-referenced to high-quality maps. Wherever you see the
reference [map] just tap this to go straight to the related map. You can
also double-tap any map for a zoom view.
Images
You’ll find lots of beautiful high-resolution images that capture the
essence of the destination. Simply double-tap on an image to see it
full-screen.
© 2019 Apa Digital (CH) AG and Apa Publications (UK) Ltd
Table of Contents
Recommended Routes For...
Art enthusiasts
Children
Food and wine
Medici Florence
Parks and gardens
Rival cities
Shopping
Views
Explore Florence
Florence today
Geography and layout
Three squares
Across the Arno
A potted history
Beginnings
The Commune
Renaissance flourishing
Foreign rule
Unification and independence
Contemporary Florence
Modern mayors
Food and Drink
Markets and vegetables
Fagioli
Olive oil
Chestnuts
Meat dishes
Sweets
Eating out
Wine
Key names
Vin Santo
Shopping
Fashion
Designer names
Leather and textiles
Paper
Opening times
Entertainment
Music, opera and dance
The Maggio Musicale
Opera and dance
Chamber music
Theatre
Cinema
Nightlife
History: Key Dates
Beginnings
The Renaissance
Foreign rule and independence
The 21st century
Piazza del Duomo
Piazza del Duomo
The Duomo
The façade
The crypt of Santa Reparata
Notable artworks
The dome
Climbing the dome
The Campanile
Loggia del Bigallo
The Baptistry
Baptistry doors
The interior
Museo dell’Opera del Duomo
The ground floor
The first floor
The second floor
Donatello’s workshop
Orsanmichele to the Ponte Vecchio
Orsanmichele
The interior
Piazza della Signoria
The Loggia of the Lancers
Palazzo Vecchio
The courtyard
Room of the Five Hundred
Other first-floor highlights
Quarters of the Elements
Quarters of Eleonor of Toledo
Hall of Justice and Room of the Lilies
Other second-floor highlights
Special tours and the Children’s Museum
Gucci Garden
Piazzale degli Uffizi and the Ponte Vecchio
The bridge’s occupants
The Uffizi
The building
Layout
The second floor
The early Renaissance
The High Renaissance
Michelangelo and the Florentines
The first floor
The Bargello and Santa Croce
The Bargello
The collections
Badia Fiorentina
Santa Croce
The interior
Museo dell’Opera di Santa Croce
Santa Maria Novella to San Marco
Santa Maria Novella
The cemetery
The interior
Museum and cloisters
Mercato Centrale
San Lorenzo Market
Medici Chapels
Capella dei Principi
Sagrestia Nuova
Laurentian Library
Highlights
Lorenzo’s staircase
Lunch break
San Lorenzo
Famous tombs
Medici-Riccardi Palace
Piazza San Marco
Church and Museum of San Marco
The Dormitory
The Accademia to the Museo Archeologico
The Accademia
The collection
Hospital of the Innocents
Santissima Annunziata
Archeological Museum
Around Piazza Della Repubblica
Piazza della Repubblica
Strozzi Palace
Via de’ Tornabuoni
Santa Trinità
Ferragamo Museum
Davanzati Palace
Highlights
Mercato Nuovo
Oltrarno
Santa Felicità
Casa Guidi
Piazza Santo Spirito
Santo Spirito
Brancacci Chapel
San Frediano
The Pitti Palace and Boboli Garden
Pitti Palace
Palatine Gallery
Mythological decoration
Royal apartments
Niche Museums
Decorative Arts Museum
Modern Art and Costume Galleries
Boboli Garden
Statuary, structures and stonework
Buontalenti Grotto
Giardino Bardini
San Miniato Al Monte
Bardini Museum
San Miniato Gateway
Piazzale Michelangelo
San Miniato al Monte
The interior
Miniato mausoleum
The descent
The Belvedere
Ending the walk
Fiesole
Towards Piazza Mino
Roman Amphitheatre
Bandini Museum
San Romolo Cathedral
San Iacopo Chapel
Sant’Alessandro
Back to Florence
Medici Villas
Villa Corsini
Villa Medicea della Petraia
The interior
The park
To Poggio ai Caiano
Villa Medicea Poggio ai Caiano
Back to Florence
San Gimignano
Piazza del Duomo
The Rocca
Siena
Il Campo
Palazzo Pubblico
The Duomo
Cathedral Museum
Baptistry
Santa Maria della Scala
Pinacoteca Nazionale
Pisa
Piazza dei Cavalieri
Santo Stefano
Field of Miracles
Leaning Tower
The Duomo
The interior
Baptistry
Holy Field
Pisan museums
Romanesque and gothic churches
Accommodation
The Duomo
Piazza della Signoria
Santa Croce
Piazza della Repubblica
San Lorenzo
San Marco
Santa Maria Novella
Oltrarno
Fiesole
San Gimignano
Siena
Restaurants
The Duomo
Piazza della Signoria
Santa Croce
Piazza della Repubblica
San Lorenzo
San Marco
Santa Maria Novella
Oltrarno
Outside Florence
San Gimignano
Siena
Nightlife
Theatre
Cinema
Bars and live music
A-Z
A
Age restrictions
Addresses
B
Budgeting
C
Carbon off-setting
Children
Climate
Clothing
Crime and safety
Customs and duty-free
D
Disabled travellers
E
Electricity
Embassies and consulates
Emergencies
Etiquette
F
Festivals
G
Green issues
Guides and tours
H
Health
Insurance
Pharmacies and hospitals
Hours and holidays
Business hours
Public holidays
I
Internet
L
Left luggage
LGBTQ travellers
M
Maps
Media
Print
Television and radio
Money
Credit cards
Banks, exchange and ATMs
P
Police
Post
R
Religion
S
Smoking
Sports
Gyms
Tennis
Swimming
Football
Student travellers
Strikes
T
Telephones
Mobile phones
Time zone
Tipping
Toilets
Tourist information
Transport
Arrival
By rail
Public transport
Taxis
Driving and car hire
Bicycle hire
V
Visas and passports
Y
Youth hostels
W
Weights and measures
Women travellers
Language
Useful phrases
At a bar/restaurant
On the menu
Getting around
Online
Social media
Books and Film
Books
Art and architecture
Culture and history
Literature
Films
RECOMMENDED ROUTES FOR...
ART ENTHUSIASTS
Don’t miss the Uffizi Gallery, the world’s best collection of
Renaissance art (route 3), or the Accademia (route 6), home to
Michelangelo’s David. Walk 4 covers the Bargello’s sculpture and
the famed Santa Croce frescoes.
iStock
CHILDREN
Keep kids amused in the Boboli Garden (route 9), the Children’s
Museum (route 2) or the Archaeological Museum (route 6), which
has mummies. Then treat them to ice cream at Vivoli (route 4).
Britta Jaschinski/Apa Publications
FOOD AND WINE
Good routes for foodies include no. 5, which heads to the Mercato
Centrale with its food stalls and cafés. Route 7 ends at one of the
city’s most popular tripe stands – not for the faint-hearted, but
certainly authentic.
Britta Jaschinski/Apa Publications
MEDICI FLORENCE
Route 2 visits the Palazzo Vecchio, erstwhile home of the Medici,
while their family tombs are in the Medici Chapels (route 5). Route
12 takes you out of the city centre to focus on several villas built for
the Medici.
Fotolia
PARKS AND GARDENS
The city’s main park, the Boboli Garden (route 9), showcases
statuary, grottoes and formal gardens, as well as the Pitti Palace.
The Medici Villas (route 12) are also notable for their lovely
gardens.
Steve McDonald/Apa Publications
RIVAL CITIES
Easy day trips from Florence include long-time rivals Siena (route
14), Pisa (route 15) and San Gimignano (route 13) – a superb
hilltop village and the best-preserved medieval settlement in the
country.
Steve McDonald/Apa Publications
SHOPPING
Pop into the Mercato Centrale on route 5 for local shopping
(especially food). Alternatively, take a stroll along Via de’
Tornabuoni, the city’s most prestigious shopping street, and then
end at the Mercato Nuovo, on route 7.
iStock
VIEWS
The best views are from Piazzale Michelangelo and San Miniato al
Monte church (route 10). The Boboli Garden (route 9) is also a
great lookout. For splendid Tuscan countryside, head to Fiesole
(route 11).
Britta Jaschinski/Apa Publications
EXPLORE FLORENCE
FLORENCE TODAY
Built along the banks of the Arno, Florence is cut in two by the river,
with the older part of the city lying to the north. The river has,
perhaps, been a mixed blessing for the city – on the one hand
supplying it with water and a transport link, but occasionally
unleashing devastating floods, as happened in 1966 (for more
information, click here).
Three squares
The old historic centre might be thought of as clustering around three
piazzi, or squares, each of which represents a different centre of
influence. Piazza del Duomo surrounds the city’s cathedral and is
the centre of spiritual power. To the north of here lie three of the city’s
major churches, Santa Maria Novella (close to the decidedly secular
area around the railway station), San Lorenzo and San Marco.
To the south of Piazza del Duomo is Piazza della Signoria,
surrounded by palazzi (palaces) with medieval crenellated towers.
Here is the Palazzo Vecchio (Old Palace), from where the Medici
ruled over Florence. It is still the centre of temporal power in the city,
as home to the Commune (the city government).
To the west lies Piazza della Repubblica, the square laid out to
represent a ‘New Florence’ during the 19th century, when the city
was temporarily capital of the newly independent Italy. This might be
seen as a symbol of the city’s mercantile and artisan traditions.
Close by are upmarket shopping streets and the main branches of
the city’s banks.
Historic street
Britta Jaschinski/Apa Publications
Beginnings
The first settlements in and around Florence were those of the
peace-loving Etruscans (from whose name we get the modern
Toscana, or Tuscany), who built a substantial town on the site of
present-day Fiesole. They were to flourish until c.300 BC, when the
region fell to the growing power of Rome. And it was the Romans
who were to found the city of Firenze (Florence) in 59 BC, when they
built a colonia for retired soldiers and named it Florentia.
Small is beautiful
Mockford & Bonetti/Apa Publications
The Commune
After the fall of Rome came the first glimmerings of the city-state,
with the setting up of the Commune, and the construction of public
works such as the city walls, a cathedral and the Palazzo Vecchio.
However, it was with the rise of the wool trade, and then banking,
from the 11th to the 13th centuries, that the city really began to
assume its position of dominance.
By the 14th century Florence was the richest city in Europe, even
though it often found itself at war with its neighbours, especially
Siena – a rivalry that continues, albeit in a more gentle fashion, to
the present day.
Renaissance flourishing
With its wealth, and numerous skilled artisans, Florence was the
ideal candidate to be the city at the heart of the Renaissance. An
extraordinary concentration of artistic talent, including Giotto,
Masaccio, Uccello, Brunelleschi, Leonardo, Raphael and
Michelangelo, to name but a few, found work and patronage in the
city, especially once the Medici took control of Florence in 1434 (a
period of rule that was to last, with a few breaks, until 1737).
Mosaic of Christ in the Baptistry
Mockford & Bonetti/Apa Publications
Foreign rule
With the demise of the last of the Medici, Florence fell under foreign
rule, first the Austrians and then the French. By this time, it was also
being discovered by the British, who flocked to its art treasures as
part of their ‘grand tours’ of the continent. Some of them came and
expropriated works of art to hang in their stately homes, but others,
captivated by the city, stayed and made it their home.
CONTEMPORARY FLORENCE
5.
"Vot siivo mies minä olemas", vastaa juutalainen hiljaa, "mitä siis
antamas?"
*****
*****
6.
*****
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