Chikankari Embroidery

Chikankari Embroidery
• Chikan, in the literal sense means ’embroidery’.

• This traditional embroidery style is one of Lucknow’s most ancient
and well-known art forms, believed to be introduced by the
Mughals.
• The simple and precise handwork on the garment, gives it a very
subtle, classy feel that modern embroidery techniques lack.
• The main essence of the garment is a simple design, and while motifs
are now added to make the garment look rich, it still remains a simple
and affordable fabric choice.
Origin and history
• Indian chikan work goes as far back as the early 3rd century BC.
• The story of this embroidery is that Noor Jahan, the wife of Mughal
emperor Jehangir, introduced the Persian art in India in the 17th
century. She herself was a talented embroideress, and had a
particular fondness for this art.
• Started as a white-on-white embroidery form, back in the day, the
favoured fabric was muslin or mulmul as it was best suited to the
warm, slightly humid climate. After the downfall of the Mughal
Empire, chikankari artisans spread all over India, but Lucknow
remained the main center, with Awadh a close second.
Embroidery process
• The Lucknow chikankari technique can be broken down in two parts –
the pre- and the post-preparation stages.
• The pre-work involves determining of the design and engraving the
same onto wooden block stamps.
• These stamps are then used for block printing the design onto the
cloth with the help of neel and safeda dyes.
• The cloth is then cut according to the form that the garment is
supposed to take.
• Then comes the embroidery process, where the fabric is set in a small
frame, part by part, and needlework begins to trace the ink patterns.
• The type of stitching used depends on the specialty of the region and
the type and size of the motifs.
• Some of the most popular stitches in Lucknow chikankari include the
backstitch, chain stitch and hemstitch. The result is an open work
pattern, a jail (lace) or shadow work.
• The finished garment is first checked for consistency and neatness,
and then washed to remove all traces of ink.
• Before being ready for commercial sales, the garment is starched to
obtain the right stiffness.
• Chikankari is also famous as ‘shadow
work’.
• ‘Bukhia’ is nothing but satin stitch which
is done on the wrong side of the material
and the design is delicately outlined with
tiny running stitches from the right side.
• The simplified bukhia is herringbone
stitch. The stitches that cover the back of
the cloth is herringbone style gives a
shadow effect from the right side.
• This sort of embroidery gives an opaque
effect. The effect of fine muslin
background produces a shadow
appearance.
• Murri is a knotted style of chikankari,
worked in the centre of flowers, giving
an embossed effect. It is nothing but
French knot, who resembles the rice
grain in shape.
• ‘Taipachi’ is a simple running (darning)
stitch, used to fill the straight or
curved lines in the floral design. It is
mainly used to give the outlines for
the design. It is a flat style.
• Chikankari something like unity in diversity i.e., it includes some
simple stitches like satin, back, stem, button hole and herringbone
stitch, giving a clustorious effect which is simple, gentle and subtle.
• There are two styles of chikankari work, flat style and knotted
embossed effect.
• ‘Jali work’ gives an effect of open mesh or
net like appearance.
• Sometimes it looks like drawn thread work
or lace like.
• This effect is produced by pushing apart
the warp and weft yarns with the help of
needle, forming into tiny holes and are
later tightened to give the cloth firmness
and appearance of a net.
• One of the most prominent features of the Lucknow chikankari work is
the stitches. Each and every stitch is done to perfection and the
neatness in the work is hard to find elsewhere.
• The delicate and artfully
done hand embroidery
gives the garment a look
of richness and skillfulness,
which is exactly what you
pay for.
Colours
• Having started out as a white-on-white embroidery work on muslin
cloth, chikankari has now evolved and embraced the use of colours.
• Many say that the change is in keeping with the modern fashion
trends, and still swear by the classic all-white garment.
• While white does rule the roost, don’t be surprised to see colourful
and silk threads too tracing the motifs, making each garment more
versatile in nature.
Motifs
• Floral patterns and chikankari go hand
in hand.
• Due to its strong Persian influence,
flowers have always been a staple with
stems, buti and leaves added in to
complete the design.
• Other motifs include embellishments
like Mukaish, Kamdani, Badla as well
as sequin, bead and mirror work, all
of which give the simple work a richer
look.
Varieties
• The traditional muslin cloth that the art was established in has now
been swapped for lighter fabrics like cotton, silk, chiffon, organza and
net.
• The idea is to have lightweight fabric that not just makes the
embroidery process easier (the needle can pass through without much
resistance) but also ensures that the work stands out on its own.
• The work is found on a wide range of garments for men and women.
You can buy everything from a long kurta, to a saree, anarkali, palazzos
and even a range of accessories, and some home décor items like
cushion, table covers and bed throws.

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• Chikan, in the literal sense means ’embroidery’.

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