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Determination of Yarn properties
Determination of Yarn properties
YARN STRENGTH Factors affecting Yarn strength 1. Staple length: Longer staple cotton gives higher strength. 2. Fiber fineness: Fine fibers give greater yarn strength than coarse fibers when spun into a given yarn size. 3. Fiber strength: A strong fiber produces a stronger yarn than a weak fiber. Eg: a nylon yarn is stronger than a wool yarn of similar weight. 4. Twist: For any single spun yarn, there is always a twist that gives maximum strength. A twist less than or greater than this optimum amount results in a yarn of lower strength. uneven twist results in a variation in strength, and the effect of this variation are more noticeable in single end tests than in skein tests. Determination of Yarn properties YARN STRENGTH Factors affecting Yarn strength 5. Evenness: The greater the uniformity of a spun yarn, the higher is its strength, and the more uneven a yarn, the lower is its strength. 6. Fiber Length Distribution: Variations in the distribution of fiber lengths will cause a variation in yarn strength. The greater the percentage of short fibers, the lower the strength of the yarn. 7. Fiber finish: Type and amount of chemical finish applied to fibers. The two approaches: Multiple End and Single End tests Multiple End Test:
Skein test: Several ends are tested
simultaneously. Applying a tensile load to a standard skein of yarn. These skeins are 120 yards in length made up of 80 wraps of 1.5 yards each. In making the test, the skein is placed on the testing machine over small spools about 27 inches apart. With the 80 wraps in the skein, a total of 160 ends are subjected to the tensile load. The results of the skein strength tests are most frequently reported in units of pounds of strength The two approaches: Multiple End and Single End tests Single End Test: A single length of yarn is held by appropriate clamps, generally 10 inches between the jaws in the US, and upto 20 inches between the jaws in other countries. The strength is generally reported in pounds, ounces, or grams. Analysis of the two testing methods: With the single strand test with 10 inches between the jaws, there is a reduction of non-uniformity occuring in the selected length. However, with the skein test, there is a very high probability of maximum non-uniformity or unevenness in the sample to be tested. As the load is applied, and any one strand is broken because of non-uniformity or because of variation in tension or elongation , there are only 159 ends available to support the stress being applied. Analysis of the two testing methods: Since, one continuous length of yarn is used in the skein test, the rupture of any single strand will result in slippage of the terminal ends of this strand so that actually the 160 ends originally supporting the load are now reduced to less than 159 ends, possibly to 157 or less. It is for this reason that the strength of the yarn obtained by the skein test method is always relatively lower per strand than that obtained by the single strand method. Measurement of linear density and count A hank of yarn is wound on a wrap reel and weighed on a sensitive balance. It is inconvenient and unnecessary to wrap a whole length unit of yarn (1 km or 840 yards). So only a proportion is wrapped. This proportion is 100 metres when using the Tex system (100 revolutions * 1 metre) and 120 yards when using cotton count system (80 revolutions * 1.5 yards). Measurement of linear density and count Simple balances (eg: a quadrant balance) are calibrated in count of linear density units. Modern electronic balances are available which incorporate a microprocessor and printer. The microprocessor calculates count or linear density in any desired unit, calculates the variation within a large sample, and gives warning if linear density is outside limits. Measurement of linear density and count Beesley balance Special yarn balance designed to furnish a quick estimate of the count, when only small samples are at hand. Beesley balance consists of a simple beam with a sample hook at one end and a pointer at the other. The beam is initially levelled to bring the pointer opposite a datum line. A standard weight is hung in a notch on the beam arm on the pointer side of the pivot. A template is used to cut short lengths of yarn, the length depending upon the count system required. These short lengths are added to the hook until the pointer is opposite the datum line. The count is the number of short lengths required to balance the beam. Yarn evenness Growth in the case of natural fibers, and production factors in the case of man made fibers, give rise to variations in length, width and shape of fibers. Ideally, fibers are arranged parallel to the yarn main axis (length), laid end to end and spiral in form due to twist. However, in reality not all fibers are parallel, there are gaps between some fiber ends and overlaps of others, with folds and kinks instead of a regular spiral. The introduction of faults during processing can also lead to unevenness or irregularity in yarn fineness. Causes of yarn unevenness Irregularity in a yarn can be the result of two factors: - Irregularity in the fiber diameter or - Irregularity in the fiber arrangement. Methods used to describe yarn unevenness If a strand of material is cut up into short equal lengths, the weight of each consequent length could be found and plotted on a graph. By joining the points, a trace is produced. This shows the way in which the weight per unit length varies about the mean value. Methods used to describe yarn unevenness The deviations from the mean could be determined, the mean deviation calculated, and the percentage mean deviation derived and used as a measure of the irregularity. Where the deviations from the mean are of a random nature, the percentage mean deviation (P.M.D.) and the coefficient of variation are related: C.V. = 1.25 P.M.D. Periodic variations All traces of the variation in weight per unit length do not show a random distribution of the deviations from the mean. Inspection of some traces reveals definite sequences of thick and thin places in the strand of material. These forms of irregularity are referred to as ‘Periodic variations’ because of their cyclical nature. Periodic variations To describe these Periodic variations two terms ‘wavelength’ and ‘amplitude’ are used. The wavelength is the distance from one peak of the wave to the next, and the amplitude is a measure of the size of the ‘swing’ from the mean level, expressed as a percentage of the mean level. Periodic variations Classification of Variation The periodic variation present in the material being tested may be classified according to their wavelength, using the fiber length as a length unit. Short term variation: 1 to 10 times the fiber length Medium term variation: 10 to 100 times the fiber length Long term variation: 100 to 1,000 (or more) times the fiber length Uster Evenness Tester The Uster tester is a versatile instrument for measuring the uniformity of materials ranging from extremely heavy sliver to very fine yarns. It has the following external features: - The ‘comb’ of eight measuring capacitors of different sizes - The creel and guides to control the material - The traverse rollers which can control the material speed over a range from 2 to 100 yd/min. - The control switches - The meter on the main unit which indicates the momentary variations in the material. - The indicator which indicates the P.M.D. or C.V. - The high-speed pen recorder whose chart speed can be varied between 1 and 40 in./min. Uster Evenness Tester The Uster tester operates on the principle that a change in the mass of the dielectric (non conducting material) in the condenser will change the capacitance. The measuring comb of the tester is actually a set of condensers with an air dielectric. When some material other than air is placed between the plates of one of the condensers, the capacitance is changed in proportion to the mass of that material. As the mass of the material changes, the capacity of the condenser changes in proportion. Uster Evenness Tester Two oscillators A and B have equal frequencies when there is no material in the measuring capacitor C. The presence of material in the capacitor causes its capacity to change and so alter the frequency of oscillator A. Uster Evenness Tester There will then be a difference between the two frequencies which varies according to the amount of material between the capacitor plates. This oscillator is compared with the other base oscillator by a mixer which determines the mass of material in the slot at the instant. Suitable circuits D translate these frequency differences into signals which are indicated on the meter M, Drive the pen of the recorder Are fed into the integrator which indicates the average irregularity either as percentage mean deviation or coefficient of variation.