Fashion Design

DFD/ADFD/PDFD 306

3rd Semester
DRAPING - I

Mr. Kapil Kelkar

Principal
SIDI
Raipur (C.G.), India
 COURSE OBJECTIVES

• To make the students aware of various Draping techniques for

the designing. Make them learn theoretical and practical
approach towards draping.

2
 COURSE OUTCOMES

After learning this course, students will be able to create a

design based on certain draping and silhouettes.

3
 CONTENTS
Semester- 1st
Paper Code – DFD/ADFD/PDFD 306
ELEMENTS & PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN
S.No. Unit Name /Topic
Intro to draping, Draping of bodice, skirt, sleeve
1

2 Draping of torso, cowl, waist midriff, flared skirt

3 Draping of Princess bodice, bias halter, asymmetrical bodice, flared six gore skirt

4 Draping of peg skirt, asymmetrical skirt, under arm cowl, peplum, flounce, ruffles.

4
 REFERENCES/TEXT BOOKS
• The art of fashion draping by Amadon Crawford

5
 Unit 1 - Introduction
- Draping is the process of transforming a clothing design into a three-
dimensional form.

- The art of draping dates back to 3500 BCE, beginning with the
Mesopotamians and Ancient Egyptians.

- Greek fashion followed with the invention of draped silhouettes like

the chiton, peplos, chlamys and himation.

- The Etruscans and Ancient Romans invented the toga, a length of

fabric that wraps and drapes around the body.

- Draping is a technique used to make a 3-dimensional dress pattern

with the aid of a dress form figure by pinning and placing fabric against
the form to create a garment. Typically designers use muslin, which is
cost-efficient and offered in a variety of weights.
 Unit 1 - Introduction

Why is Draping Useful?

Draping is used to achieve the desired pattern
through the first-hand manipulation of fabric,
providing the opportunity to sculpt and create one-of-
a-kind designs, which is why draping is a technique
used primarily when making couture and high-end
pieces.
 Unit 1 - Introduction
- Every fashion designer should have the knowledge about draping. It also helps to developing your artistic and
manual skills. Some other necessity of fashion draping are as follows –

- It helps to be able to combine new up-to-date looks.

- To understand the human body proportions also get the required shape and fi­t of the garments.

- To understand about various fabric grains and its advantages.

- To introduce the basic vocabulary of the fashion such as - high waist, empire line, low waist, princes line, style
line, Halter, etc.

- To improve manual skills.

- To improve concentration & precision.

- To develop your design creativity.

- It make capable of processing various types of fabric and giving them form and harmony.

- Be able to work in an international ambient.

- To gain knowledge to work with professionals.

- To improve your fashion portfolio

 Unit 1 –Tools & Equipments
Tools required for draping -

Draping tools are necessary to drape, measure, mark and draft designs.

Awl: A pointed metal instrument used for punching holes for belt eyelets.

18-inch Clear Plastic Ruler: A two-inch wide ruler divided into 1/8-inch grids.

French Curve Ruler: An irregular curve ruler used to shape and curve edges of collars,
necklines, crotch seams, armhole and hip curves.

Iron: A steam-and-dry iron used to smoothen and flatten and aid in blocking muslin.

Ironing Board: A flat, adjustable board of about 54-inches long and 15-inches wide, used for
back support when ironing fabric.

L-Square: A metal or plastic ruler with two arms of different lengths meeting at right angles.

Muslin: An inexpensive fabric, on which the grain and cross grain are quite visible. Used to
drape garments made of woven goods.
 Unit 1 –Tools & Equipments

Tools required for draping -

Notcher: A punching tool used to mark the edge of a sloper or paper pattern.

Pattern Drafting Paper: Strong, white, good quality drafting paper, with 1-inch grids of pattern
dots. It is available in rolls of various widths.

Pencils: pencils used in developing muslin patterns.

Pin Cushion or Pin Dispenser: A sewing tool that keeps pins organized in a convenient place.

Scissors and Shears: Shears are usually four-to eight inches long and made of steel Bent-handled
shears are excellent for easy and straight cutting.

Style Tape: A narrow, woven tape that is used to define style lines on the dress form.

Straight Pins: dressmaker pins with sharp tapering points that will not rust are used to anchor
muslin or fabric to the dress form while draping.
 Unit 1 –Tools & Equipments

Tools required for draping -

Tailor’s Chalk: A small piece of chalk, approximately 1 ‘/2” square, with two tapered edges. It is
used to mark lines temporarily on garment hems and other alteration points.

Tape Measure: A flexible, narrow, firmly woven, 60-inch reversible tape marked with
measurements indicating both inches and metric terms used to take dress form, muslin, and body
measurements.

Tracing Wheel: A sharp, spike edged circular wheel with a handle that is used to transfer markings
from the drape to the pattern paper.

Yardstick: A wooden or metal ruler one yard in length (36 inches) that is marked in inches or
metric terms, An aid for laying pattern pieces on the straight grain of the fabric or for
measuring hemlines.
Unit 1 – UNDERSTANDING THE DRESS FORM
 Unit 1 – DRAPING TERMINOLOGIES
Mannequin marking terms:
SH-shoulder line
NB-neck band
Armhole/Armscye
PL-princess line
Apex/BP-bust point
BL-bust line
CF-center front
SS-side seam
WL-waistline
HBL-Horizontal balance line
 Unit 1 – DRAPING TERMINOLOGIES
Apex: the highest point of the bust and a reference point for establishing the
cross grain for the front bodice.

Center Front: vertical line that marks the middle front of the garment.

Center back: vertical line that marks the middle back of a garment.

Seam: two or more edges of fabric held together by stitches.

Bias: A diagonal line across the grain of the fabric to showcasing maximum
stretch.

Cross grain: section of fabric that runs perpendicular to the lengthwise grain
that runs from selvage to selvage.

Dart: a design feature that aids in fitting garments around and to curves
 Unit 1 – DRAPING TERMINOLOGIES
Preparation of Muslin fabric for draping:
Tearing:
- Estimate the size of muslin needed, allowing a reasonable amount of extra fabric for
ease, seam allowances, and styling.

- Clip the edge of the muslin with scissors and tear across the grain with sufficient
pressure to break the yarns evenly.

- The true crosswise grain or the true lengthwise grain should from the edge of muslin
used for draping. Because the selvage is closely woven, it tends to hold in the muslin and
often will throw the weave off; therefore, the center front and center back should be
planned at least 3” from the selvage.
 Unit 1 – DRAPING TERMINOLOGIES
Preparation of Muslin fabric for draping:
Blocking:
- Before draping, muslin may have to be re-shaped so that yarns of the crosswise and
lengthwise grains are at perfect right angels to each other.

-To re-shaped muslin, pull the edges diagonally until the fabric is squared.

Pressing:
- Once the fabric has been blocked, set the position of the yarns with the steam and heat
of pressing.

-Press in the directions of the lengthwise and the crosswise grains. Never press on the
bias.

-Apply steam followed by a dry iron.

Unit 1 – GRAIN LINES
 UNIT 2 - PRACTICAL DRAPING

• BASIC BODICE – FRONT &

BACK
BASIC SKIRT – FRONT & BACK
BASIC SLEEVE DRAPING
 UNIT 3 –
TORSO FOUNDATION – BASIC SHIFT DRESS
FRONT & BACK
BASIC COWL NECKLINE –
FRONT & BACK
 UNIT 4 –
FLARED SKIRT – FRONT & BACK
WAIST MIDRIFF BODICE
– FRONT & BACK
SUBJECT COMPLETED……
THANK YOU