TEXTILE FINISHING

Sk, Nift

FINISHING Final step in the manufacturing

of textile materials.  Process by which the final properties of the material are developed.  Alter the appearance, aesthetics, & surface characteristics for improved product performance  Property modification is achieved through various techniques, both chemical and physicochemical.

CLASSIFICATION OF FINISHES
 According To Designer/Merchandiser/Sales Personals  AESTHETIC FINISHES: Change the appearance or hand of the garment & are pleasing to both hand & eye.  FUNCTIONAL FINISHS: Alter or improve the wear ability & performance of fabric or garment & provide for:  Additional comfort  Environmental or biological resistance  Durability for wear life of garment  Improved care performance

According To Textile Chemists

 MECHANICAL OR DRYFINISHES: Cause a physical change in the fabric. Finishes are applied by mechanical equipment such as cu plates, drying cylinders, perforated cylinder or stenter frames. Fabrics are handled in dry state.  CHEMICAL OR WET FINISHES: Acid, Alkalis, Bleaches, Detergents, Softeners, Resins & other chemical substances cause a reaction & produce permanent change in Fibre, yarn or fabric.

 According To Degree Of Performance  PERMANENT FINISHES: Involve a chemical change in the fibre structure. Once it is applied will not change or alter throughout the life of the fabric. Effectiveness of finish will withstand throughout the life of the fabric.  DURABLE FINISHES: Effectiveness will withstand for 50-60 cleanings. Near the end of the normal use life of the garment the finish is completely removed.  SEMI DURABLE FINISHES: Last through 25-30 cleanings.  TEMPORARY FINISHES: Are removed completely in 12 cleanings. it only add appearance or hand of the fabric i.e. increase the salability of inferior fabric.

CALENDARING
 Compression of the fabric b/w 2 heavy rolls to give flattened, smooth appearance of the fabric by the action of heat & pressure.  Surface of the roller can be either smooth or engraved.  One roll is usually metal and the other is usually covered with paper or fabric.  Moisture in the form of water or steam may be used to achieve a desired luster.  Resins required to be used to make calendaring durable on cellulosic fabrics. Without the resin the effect lasts only one laundering

PURPOSES
         smoothing the surface of the fabric increasing the fabric luster closing the threads of woven fabrics decreasing the air permeability increasing the fabric opacity improving the fabric handle flattening slubs obtaining silk like/ high gloss finish surface patterning by embossing

SWISSING OR NORMAL GLOSS

 A cold calendar produces a smooth flat fabric.  If the steel bowl of the calendar is heated thus produces lustrous fabric.  If a 7-bowl multi purpose calendar is used the result is smooth fabric with surface gloss on both sides of the fabric.

CHINTZ OR GLAZZING OR FRICTION CALENDARING

 The top 4 bowls of a 7- bowl may be lifted up (3 roll process).  produces a high degree of luster on one side of the fabric (which touches the iron bowl).  Gives high polished surface like glazed chintz cotton fabric.  If very highly gloss required the fabric is preimpregnated with a wax emulsion- temporary finish.  if the fabric is pre-treated with resin this is a semidurable finish.

CIRE CALENDARING
 3-Bowl calendaring  Top bowl rotates much greater than the lower rolls.  The resultant fabric becomes highly lustrous.  Fabrics of cotton, rayon, polyester, nylon & blends may be given cire finish.  The fabrics are pretreated with wax or resin, to get highly polished effect.  When synthetics are cire finished, the fabrics become moderately water-repellent due to flattening or partially fusing of fabric.

EMBOSSED CALENDARING
 2 bowl calendaring  Produces 3-dimensional design on fabric.  Embossing calendar consists of heated hollow metal roller engraved with the embossing design & solid paper roller twice the size of engraved roller. Fabric is drawn b/w the 2 rollers & is embossed with design.  Fabric is passed between these rolls and the pattern is set into the fabric by heat & pressure.  it is similar to schreiner calendar  Cotton fabrics must have a resin finish to give a durable effect.

MOIRE CALENDARING
 Produces wood grain design on the face side of the fabric. There are 2 ways to achieve this result:  METHOD1: Rib fabric (faille/taffeta) & balanced plain weave fabric are placed face to face. Both the fabrics are fed into smooth heated metal rolls for calendaring keeping the speed of the rib fabric greater than that of the plain woven fabric. The pressure on the calendar rolls is maintained at about 8-10 tons. The result is undefined watermark or moire effect is formed on rib woven fabric  METHOD2: Embossed metal roll is used which has moire pattern engraved on it. When the roll passes over a fabric, the ribs are flattened & a moire pattern is created.

SCHRENIER CALENDARING
 3-bowl calendaring  Gives silk like brilliance  Produces soft, smooth & luster on the fabric & improved fabric cover.  Top metal roller engraved with 200-300 fine diagonal lines per inch.  This finish scatters light rays & produces a deep seated luster rather shines.  It can upgrade low quality cotton fabric.  Soft, opaque lingerie fabrics are produced from tricot knits by Schreinering

NAPPING/BRUSHING
 Mechanical finish for woven & knitted fabrics.  Fabrics are passed against rotating bristled wire covered rollers. Thereby raising the fibres from fabric surface (pile effect).  Provides softer hand & better insulation, widely used in blankets, sleep wear & winter clothing.  As a pretreatment the fabric should be padded with a softener to make the fibres in the yarn to slide freely during the napping operation.  Drawback: subject to pilling in particularly sleeve ends, coat fronts, buttonholes, elbows & other rubbing areas.

BEATLING
 This finish is applying mainly on linen and silk type fabric by beating the fabric with wooden pipe.  To make the fabric limpy.  To increase the softness.

EMERIZING, SUE DING, SANDING OR PEACH FINISH

 Produces soft & smooth/ silky feel.  The fabric moves under 2 or more rollers with fine emery paper on first roller to more abrasive paper in each successive roller.  Abrades the surface causing fibrils to split from the fibres.  Abrasion generate heat may cause harshness on synthetic fabric.

Contd
 Decrease the strength by 60%.  After this finish=> heat set=> washing=> dyeing  Dry cleaning is preferred for this fabric.  Can be applied to p/c, p/n blends, & 100% silk, polyester, nylon & micro denier synthetics for sportswear.

FINISHING CHEMICALS
 STIFFENING AGENTS: Include Thickeners Like
Corn, Wheat, Maize, Or Potato Starch, Tapioca, Arrow Root Starch, Sago, Dextrin, Gums, Casein, Gelatine, Glue, Methyl Cellulose Etc

 SOFTENERS: Include Glycerine, Glucose, Fatty

matters, Tallow, Paraffin, Stearin, Coconut Oil, Soap, Polyethylene Emulsion Etc

 WEIGHTING MATERIALS: Calcium Sulphate,

Gyosum, Magnesium Sulphate, Laubes Salt, Barium Chloride, Magnesium Chloride, China Clay, Talc, Stealite, Etc

 ANTISEPTICS: Alum, Boric Acid, Phenol, Oxalic

Acid, Zinc Sulphate, Sodium Silicofluoride,creosote, Etc..

 WATER PROOFING AGENTS: Vulcanized

Natural Rubber, Oxidized Oils Or Acetate, Polyvinylidene Chloride, Etc

 WATER REPELLANTS: Include Metallic Soaps

Like Aluminium Stearate, Paraffin Wax Or Vegetable Wax, Micro Crystalline Waxes, Etc

 FLAME RETARDANTS: Water Soluble

Compounds Of Phosphorus, Antimony & Boron Especially Phosphates & Borates, Etc

 CREASE RESISTING & CROSSLINKING AGENTS:

Dimetylol Urea, Polymethylol Melamine, Dimethylol Propylene Urea, Etc

 SOIL RELEASE AGENTS: Acrylic Copolymers( E.G.

70% Methacrylic Acid & 30% Ethyl Acrylate), Fluoro chemical Based Chemicals (e.g. Polyacrylates In Which The Alcohol Portion Contains Fluorine Atoms Instead Of Hydrogen Attached To Carbon Atoms)

 ANTISTATIC AGENTS: Polyethylene Glycol, Salts Of

High Molecular Weight Fatty Amide- Fatty AlcoholEthylene Oxide Condenates, Dialkyl Dimethyl Ammonium Chloride, Etc.

 WOOL SHRINK- RESISTING AGENTS: Reactive Pre

Polymers Containg Carbamoyl Sulphate Groups, Isocyanate- Terminated Urethanepre Polymeretc.

ANTI PILLING AGENTS: Pilling Is An

Unpleasant Phenomenon Usually Associated With Spun Yarn Fabrics, Especially Those Containing Synthetic Fibres. Formation Of Polymer Film Such As Polyvinyl Propionate, Polyacrylates Etc Resin Finishing Reduce Pilling.

 FLUOROCHEMICAL REPELLENTS: For

Imparting Both Oil & Water Repellency To Textiles Fluoro polymers Such As Vinyl Polymers Of Acrylic Or Methacrylic Type, Copolymers Of Vinyl Polymers Of Acrylic Or Methacrylic Type, Copolymers Of Vinyl Esters, Etc.

SHRINKAGE CONTROL FINISHES

WHAT IS SHRINKAGE?

Reduction in the length or width of a fibre, yarn or fabric

CAUSES OF SHRINKAGE
 Intermolecular structure of fibres  Yarn twist  Fabric construction (yarns/inch)  Weave / knit structure

 Woven fabrics generally shrink more in the warp than in the weft direction because the warp yarns are under excessive tension during weaving.  Knit fabrics tend to stretch more during production than woven fabrics hence shrink more than woven fabrics

TYPES OF SHRINKAGE
 RELAXATION SHRINKAGE - Caused By Relaxing Of Tensions Imposed In Fabric Manufacture.

PROGRESSIVE SHRINKAGE - Occurs Each Time The Fabric Is Laundered.

 RESIDUAL SHRINKAGE Small Amount Of Shrinkage Potential Remain Even After Fabric Is Pre-shrunk.

STENTER
 Drying or curing of fabric  Finishes are applied by padding, & then dry/ cure on the stenter  Heat setting in case of synthetic fabrics  Width setting of fabric  Shrinkage control to some extent  Increases GSM of the fabric.  Dimensional stability

BOW & SKEW CONTROLLING ZONE

OVER FED ROLLERS

PINNING

CLOSE VIEW OF PINS FOR HOLDING SELVEDGE OF FABRIC

HEAT SETTING CHAMBERS

SHRINKAGE CONTROL METHODS

 COMPRESSIVE SHRINKAGE (SANFORIZATION)
  Generally used for cottons. Impart shrinkage to the fabric and improve luster of the fabric. Maximum shrinkage is first calculated. Fabric dampened and passed through continuous thick rubber belt where preshrinking takes place which is further set by woolen/ felt blanket.

 

SANFORISER

Rubber Belt

Woolen Felt

1. 2. 3. 4.

Fabric Felt blanket Metal roller Big cylinder

SHRINKAGE CONTROL FOR KNITS

 Firstly fabric is treated with resin containing solution, then dried  Compressive shrinkage processes for knits use different methods to return fabrics to their relaxed position

 Heat setting stabilizes synthetic knits, fabrics shrink without heat setting.  MICREX Shrinkage Control- is another method to control shrinkage in knits, Fabrics are moved between two rollers, each 6 inches apart. The cloth is kept in constant motion, both vertically and horizontally by hot air from a high energy nozzle system

SHRINKAGE CONTROL FOR WOOL

 Shows progressive shrinkage due to scale structure which also causes felting.  controlled by treatment with chlorine, partially destroying the scales that occur on wool fibres.  Other methods employ coating with resins that attach to the scales in order to discourage felting shrinkage.

LONDON SHRUNK  Controls relaxation shrinkage  Used for high quality worsted fabric.  Wet worsted cloth and cotton blanket placed on long platform, a layer of fabric spread on it.  Weight placed on top for 12 hrs.  Hanged to dry naturally.  Fabric layered with special perforated boards.  Pre heated metal plates inserted at intervals.  Kept under 3000lbs pressure for 10-12 hrs.  Finally tension is removed.

DECATING / DECATIZING


   

Wool fabric wounded on perforated cylinder. Blanket of other fabric between those layers. Jet of stream released through holes. Causing fabric dampened and relaxed. Cold air blown through fabric.

 Set & Increases luster .  Help to overcome uneven or blotchy dyeing.

POTTING / BOILING

 For napped , sueded & fine wool.  Fabric may be wounded on roller, wrapped in cotton.  Immersed in high temperature.  No boiling water.

IWS SUPER WASH

 Super wash is wool bureaus trademark for fabric  application of resin, covered the scale surface on the fiber.  Semi durable finish will withstand for 25-30 launderings.  Excellent wash ability without affecting strength or fabric hand.

DEGRADATIVE PROCESSES  Most common degradative processes use chlorine gas or liquid chlorine compound.  Partially dissolve the edges of wool fiber scales.  Decreases tendency to catch on each other.  Weakens or seriously damage the cortex of the fiber.  Texture becomes rough and harsh.  Fibers subjected to chlorination often blended with other wool or manufactured fibers, lead to uneven dyeing.  Alternative processes utilizes other oxidative or reductive agents, or increasingly enzymes.

POLYMER BASED PROCESSES  Application of thin polymeric layer to surface .  Polymer coats the scales, inhibiting interlocking action.  Different processes utilize various resins.  Hercosett branded process for polymer treatment of wool for shrinkage control.  Done on wool silver proceeded by chlorination.

CONTD  Spot welded with synthetic resins , to prevent their migration within fabric structure.  Most effective for garments, especially sweaters.  Problem encounters ,fabric becomes stiff or harsh to touch when enough resin or polymer is used to make fabric completely shrink proof.

HEAT SETTING
 Process for stabilizing polyester and nylon fabrics by heating at 350-400degF for 20-60 seconds.  Uneven moisture causes the fabric to dry unevenly and therefore be subjected to uneven heat setting.  Not effective on cotton or rayon.  May be performed in fabric or garment form.  Differential dyeing, bow-bias and yellowing can result.  May cause shade variation from side-to-side if done prior to dyeing.  May cause variations in shrinkage.

SHRINKAGE CONTROL THROUGH HEAT SETTING

    Thermoplastic fibers may be stabilized. Synthetics can permanently set into shape .By subjecting heat near their glass transition temperature. Heat allows molecules to relax so fiber do not exhibit further shrinkage. Process used to establish permanent dimensions for these fabrics.

WATER REPELLENT/ WATER PROOF FINISHES

 Water repellency depends on surface tension & fabric penetrability.  It is different from the waterproof finishes, as those finishes are impermeable to air also  Fabric resist wetting but air/ moisture can penetrate.  It is achieved by combination of fabric structure & finish.  Commonly used chemicals are: paraffin wax, paraffin wax with Al or Cr salt, pyridinum salt, reactive silicon resins, fluoro carbon emulsion.  These chemicals fill the gaps b/w yarns in fabric.

WATER PROOF FABRIC:

 provide protection under all conditions of wet weather, fabric is coated or laminated with a film of natural or synthetic rubber or plastic such as vinyl or polyurethane, permanent finish

WATER PROOF BREATHABLE LAMINATED FABRIC:

 Consisting of extremely thin laminate(0.001inch) made from Teflon, provides a water proof yet breathable fabric,  Laminate sheet contains over one billion extremely fine holes per inch, laminate can be applied on to woven/ knitted fabric.  Applications: heavy duty, military protective clothing, rain wear, ski wear, golf suits, sports footwear linings, hospital drapes, mattress, tarpaulins, tents & sleeping bag covers.

ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHES

 Prevents growth of bacteria & odor causing germs, prevents decay & damage from perspiration, control the spread of disease & reduce the risk of infection following injury.  Used in intimate apparels/ body fit garments/ jogging & exercise clothing/ sportswear, shoe linings, hospital linen & carpets.  Chemicals used are: Quarter Ammonium Compounds, Zirconium & N-halamines  Usually applied by padding  Semi durable finish

INSECT & MOTH CONTROL FINISHES

 Mainly applied for wool & wool blends.  Chemical & Semi durable finish.  Permethrin is applied at the scouring or dyeing stage  The prime requirement of mothproofing agent is that it to be toxic to moths & beetles that attack wool, but it must not be toxic to human beings at concentration levels used for mothproofing

FABRIC FLAMMABILITY
 Fabrics Can Be Placed In Different Categories With Regard To Flammability:  FLAMMABLE: Completely Consumed When Exposed To Fire.  FLAME RESISTANT: Chemically Treated To Resist The Spread Of The Flame.  FLAME PROOF: Fabrics Made Of Fibres That Are Inherently Non-Flammable, example: Glass, Kevlar, Nomex.

FACTORS WHICH AFFECT THE DEGRE OF FABRIC FLAMMABILITY

       Fibre content More air spaces within the fabric to burn more easily Light weight fabric Low twist in yarn Thin yarn Low yarn/ stitches per inch Pile or napped surface.

DURABLE FLAME RETARDANT

 Chemical finish, which react with or physically held on the surface of the fabric or within the fibre.  These finishes must withstand laundering procedure throughout the expected life of the fabric.  Durable flame retardant are generally organic compounds, which contains phosphorus, nitrogen or halogen or combination of these in the chemical structure.  Applied to fabric by a pad dry cure process.  The finish formulation usually contains the flame retardant chemical, a softener, a resin binder or cross linking agent & catalyst.

ULTRA VOILET FINISHES

 The extent to which a woven or a knitted fabric transmits, absorbs, or reflects UV radiation determines its sun protection properties.  Higher is the transmission, or lower is the absorption, lower is the protection offered by the textile for the wearer

There are two possibilities of reducing UV transmittance by fabrics

 Reducing the porosity through modification of construction.  By improving the absorption and reflection properties of the fabric.

 The transmission, absorption , and reflection are in turn dependent on the fibre, fabric construction (thickness and porosity) and finish.  Grey cotton shows good protection in comparison to scoured and bleached cotton offer poor protection.  Wool provides maximum protection, while silk is intermediate between the two fibres.  Synthetic fibres, in general are better UV absorbers as compared to natural fibres. Polyester is the best due to its aromatic structure.  Addition of the delusterant Tio2 modifies the reflection and absorption of the UV rays by the fibre leading to increased scattering.

MICRO ENCAPSULATED FINISHES

Micro encapsules are b/w 5-50 microns & may contain fragrance, insect repellents, disinfectants, cleaning agents or activated charcoal.  Micro capsule are sprayed on to a fabric & held in place with poly vinyl alcohol or acrylic binder. Normal rubbing during wear rupture the capsules & release the Fragrance.

 A physicochemical technique  Moth protecting agents have micro capsulated for application to wool products  Micro capsules containing bacterial agents are applied to socks underwear, womens intimate apparel & active wear.  Activated charcoal is used as a deodorant finish to absorb body odor for gym wear active sports wear, intimate apparels & hunter clothing.

WRINKLE RESISTANT FINISHES

 Modification techniques involving a pad/dry/cure process are employed to cross-link the cellulose chains.  This process is acid catalyzed, and involves the application of formaldehyde or di- or polyfunctional linear and cyclic ureas (such as DMDHEU), carbonates, amides or melamine to the fabric.  The final step involves heat curing at temperatures above 100C to cross-link the finish to the cellulose.

Pre cure process :

 Used for fabrics which do not require pleats, like curtains, bed sheets, etc  Pad dry and cure technique involved  Disadvantages: strength loss, abrasion sensitive, puckered seam  Advantages: smooth & dimensionally stable fabric at low cost.  Common with cotton/ polyester blends.  Semi durable finish.

 Post cure processing :

 Padding & drying first done  Curing is done after well shape is given to garment.  Advantages: dimensionally stable, crease retention, minimum seam puckering.  Disadvantages: high cost  Commonly used for P/C & P/V blends  Durable finish

SOIL RELEASE FINISHES

 Removal of accumulated soil from garments is a big problem. With the evolution of synthetic fibre this problem has also enhanced vastly as these fabrics are hydrophobic and attracts soil more and releases it less readily while laundering.  Cotton fabrics treated with resins for the durable press finishes also soils to greater extent then the fabric which has been untreated.

 Soil release finishes help to remove soil from soiled fabric.

 3 terms are used for soil release property of the material:  SOIL RELEASE is the term used for a finish with hydrophilic character which allows the soil to penetrate fabric during wear but it comes into action during washing when its special functional groups transfer the soil from the fabric to the washing liquor.  SOIL REPELLENCY is the property of the material, mainly imparted through finishing, which enables it to repel soil. The finish which imparts soil repellency is inherently hydrophobic. Soil repellency is useful while wearing the fabric.  PREVENTION OF SOIL REDEPOSITION soil removed during washing has a tendency to redeposit on the fabric. One of the function of detergents is to prevent this soil redeposition. Any chemical applied to prevent soil redeposition must supplement the action of the detergent.

Chemicals used for the desired finishes For stain release property  Scotchgaurd FC 226 Introduction  It is a fluorochemical emulsion, which gives good stain repellency to nearly all types of the fabrics made of natural or synthetic fibers.  Also offers a good durability. Properties  Appearance  Charge  Density  pH

Off white emulsion cationic 1.15 kg/l 2-4

ELASTOMERIC FINISHES
 Capable of stretching & returning to the original dimension when applied to substrate.  Mainly applied on skin tight knit garments  Having high cross-linking capability  Forms 3 dimensional siloxane network within the substrate  Also imparts smoothness to fabric & brilliant look  No influence on dyeing fastness  Applied by both exhaust & padding methods  USA based kenencore group produces elastomeric finish under the name of Americos Silky Top

DENIM FINISHES
washing is done to produce effects like colour fading with or without patchiness, crinkles, seam puckering, hairiness, de-pilling, softened-hand feel, stabilized dimensions etc. Denim washing is generally divided into the following:  Stone Washing - impart an 'old-look'. Pumice stone is one of the most important components used to abrade the surface of the fabric to obtain a surface pattern effect with color contrast and soft - handle. In this process, the fibres on the surface of the fabric are broken and removed and the inner white fibres of the warp yarn are gradually exposed.

 Enzyme Washing - The hydrolytic effect of enzymes causes the loss of surface fibre, which improves surface smoothness and softness of the fabric.  Bleach Washing - This process is done by using an oxidative bleaching agent like hypochlorite. Sodium hypochlorite is normally used as it is cheap, convenient and quick.  Sand Blasting - This process is used to obtain localized abrasion effect. Usually, aluminum oxide granules are blasted onto the garment surface at a very high speed. The abrasion force rubs off the indigo-dyed fibres. This procedure is costly.

HOSIERY FINISHES
   Aegis Microbeshield - an effective antimicrobial finish. Permavel- improves the softness, breath ability and durability of hosiery. Dylachem ASN- reduces the build-up of static electricity. It is an ideal application for slips and skirt linings, imparting a soft and luxurious handle.

Disadvantages of Chemically-Modified Textiles

 Use of large amounts of chemicals  High temperature treatments  Increased cost  Environmental problems arises

SOME VALUE ADDED FINISHES

 Resil Hydra Super :      Applied on100% cotton woven/knit garments Imparts an anti static effect Improved wettability Imparts a soil release action Durable finish

 Resil's range of products for White Substrates :  Resil ASNY  Resil AST7  Resil Bright

 Resil's range of Hydrophilic finishes : An excellent solution for achieving Hydrophilicity and a Non-yellowing finish  Resil BT1007  Resil Silvosoft

 Resil's Ultra Dark Finish :  For Enhanced Dark Shade like Blacks and Navy Blues.  imparts a Soft Smooth handle.  deepens the shade for a Rich Formal Look

NANO FINISH
It is divided into two part:  NANO CARE : In this finish particle size of chemical is very small. It provide oil repellency, water repellency, soil repellency and easy to iron finish itself.  NANO PEL: It provide only repellency (water, oil, soil but not easy to iron). Applied by padding on the fabric and than stentering.

EASY TO IRON
 In this finish we are using urea formaldehyde resin applying to the fabric and then curing at high temperature.  It provide wrinkle free effect on the fabric.

THANKS