SHAMPOO

DEFINITION

A viscous cosmetic preparation with synthetic detergent used for

washing hair is called shampoo. Its principle function is to clean the
scalp such that it should become free from sebum and foreign
substances. Shampoo also makes the hair lustrous and good looking.
Apart from cleaning, shampoo may also be used for medicinal purpose
(i.e., medicated shampoo).
 or

A shampoo is a preparation of a surfactant in a suitable form-liquid,solid

or powder-which when used under the specified conditions will

a. Remove surface grease

b. Dirt

c. Skin debris from the hair shaft and scalp without adversely affecting
the user
 IDEAL PROPERTIES OF A SHAMPOO
 It should have optimum viscosity such that it facilitates ease during application.

It should have good spreading properties.

It should produce sufficient lather after application.

 It should be able to remove waste material such as debris, soil, sebum, dead cells, salts

(due to sweat) etc., from the scalp.

 It should not form any kind of film on scalp.

 It should rinse out completely after washing.

It should produce lather with both hot and cold water.
 It should facilitate ease of combing after shampooing.
 After drying, the hair should not give rough appearance.
 It should provide lustre to the hair.
 It should produce good odour both before and after shampooing.
 It should not produce any kind of irritation or itching to the scalp.
 It should not support any microbial growth.
 It should be stable and have a half life of about 2 to 3 years.
 It should be economical.
 TYPES OF SHAMPOO
Various types of shampoos are available and they are classified based on their consistency.
They are as follows:

a. Clear liquid shampoos

b. Liquid cream shampoos

c. Cream shampoos

d. Gel shampoos

e. Powder shampoos

f. Aerosol shampoos (Foam type)

g. Special shampoos
a. Clear Liquid shampoo:
These are clear liquid preparations that are most widely used. They are usually made by using
detergent of low cloud point. Alkanolamides can also be used in these preparations. Some of
these shampoos may be transparent.
 Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (surfactant) -50 g
 Lauric isopropanolamine (foam booster)-2.0 g
 Perfume, color, preservative-q.s
 Water -48 g
b. Liquid Cream Shampoos:
These are called as lotion shampoos which are modification of clear liquid
shampoos. Addition of opacifier such as glyceryl monostearate, glycol stearate etc.,
to the clear liquid shampoo yields liquid cream shampoo. Solubilizing agents such as
magnesium stearate is also used to dissolve the added opacifier.

 Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (surfactant)-35 g

 Glyceryl monostearate (opacifier)-2.0 g

 Magnesium stearate (stabilizer)-1.0 g

 Perfume, color, preservative -qs.

 Water-62 g
c. Cream Shampoos:

These shampoos have a paste like consistency and are packed in a collapsible tube.
They find great use in hair salons. They are also available in jars with wide mouth.
The paste consistency is developed by addition of alkyl sulphates, also Cetyl
alcohol is added, which serves as a builder.

 Sodium lauryl sulphate (surfactant)-38 g

 Cetyl alcohol (builder)-7.0 g
 Perfume, color, preservative-q.s
 Water-55 g
d. Gel Shampoo:
These are transparent and thick usually made by incorporating a gelling agent, (e.g.,
cellulose). There is great use in hair salons and beauty parlors. The principle ingredient is
detergent which can be used either alone or in combination with soap. By altering the
proportion of detergent, gel of required consistency can be obtained. Addition of methyl
cellulose to clear liquid shampoo and its subsequent thickening also gives rise to gel
shampoo.
 Alkyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride-15g
 Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (surfactant)-28g
 Coconut diethanolamide-7g
 Hydroxyl propyl methyl cellulose-1g
 Perfume, color, preservative -q. s

e. Powder Shampoos:
As name suggests, it is available in the form of dry powder, initially it was prepared
from dry soaps, but nowadays dry synthetic detergents are used for their preparation.
Powder shampoo is prepared where addition of water or other solvent reduces the
activity of the components. especially in case of medicated shampoo. Nowadays, these
shampoos are not used due to the difficulty experienced in their application.
 Sodium lauryl sulphate (surfactant)-20g
 Sarcoside-5.0 g
 Sodium bicarbonate-10 g
 Sodium sulphate-65 g
 Perfume-q.s.
f. Aerosol Shampoos (Foam Type):
They are called aerosol shampoos because they are packed in aerosol containers. Their
formulation, preparation and packing are complicated as an additional propellant is included.
The propellant added must be compatible and should not reduce the activity of shampooing
ingredients. The container opening is provided with a valve. Shampoo comes out as foam
when the valve is pressed. Hence also called as foam type shampoo.

 Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (surfactant)-60g

 Coconut diethanolamide-2.0 g
 Propellant-10 g
 Perfume, color, preservative-q.s
 Water-28 g
g. Special Shampoos:
These are the shampoos which are meant for special purpose. They are:
(i) Medicated Shampoo: These shampoos contain medicinal agents. These agents treat the
disorders of the scalp or hair. Eg: Anti-lice shampoo, Antidandruff shampoo, Anti-
baldness shampoo etc. The medicinal agent added should not irritate the sebaceous
glands. It should not sensitize the scalp. The degree of itching and scaling should also be
reduced. Among all, anti dandruff type of medicated shampoo is most widely used.
 Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (surfactant)-60 g
 Thymol (anti dandruff)-0.1 g
 Camphor (counter irritant)-0.1 g
 Perfume, color, preservative-qs
 Water-38.8 g
 BUILDING BLOCKS OF SHAMPOO

1. SURFACTANTS-

Helps to cleanse and to produce foam . Four types: Anionic Surfactants,

Non-ionic Surfactants. Cationic Surfactants, Amphoteric Surfactants.

a. Anionic Surfactants-Have good foaming property; hence that used

as principle surfactant . Main ingredient in shampoo formulations.
i. Alkyl sulphates-Previously Sodium Lauryl Sulphate was used, but
now Triethanolarine Lauryl Sulphate is used.

ii. Alkyl Polyethylene Glycol Sulphates- Good cleaning and foaming

property.Because of low cost,they are widely used by small
manufacturers.
b. Non-ionic Surfactants

They are considered as Secondary Surfactants. They are not used to produce foam, but
used as foam boosters, viscosity inducers, emulsion stabilizers and opacifiers . This is
because they have less foaming power.

i. Poly alkylated derivatives- Have stabilizing, emulsifying, pearlscent and foaming

properties. Available at low cost , used as mild detergent and impart good rinsing
property.

ii. Amine oxides- They are added as Secondary Surfactants because of their
conditioning , dam boosting and anti-static property.
c. Cationic Surfactants

• They are used as both principle and secondary surfactants. They are used in low
concentrations because they are toxic to eye. Apart from this, they have good foaming
and partly cleaning properties. Hence they are also used as principle surfactants in
conditioner shampoos.

i. Alkyl amines- They are used in combination with hydrophilic surfactants in order to
provide conditioning and anti-static property to the shampoo.

ii. Alkyl-Betains- They enhance the efficiency of foam( Foam booster).They contain
conditioning and anti-static property.
d. Amphoteric Surfactants

• They form Zwitter ions when the pH of media is neutral. They posses excellent
hair conditioning property and hence used as Secondary Surfactants.

i. Dialkyl Ethylene Diamines- These are soluble in water and are used as
detergents and to a lesser extent as emulsifier . Widely used as non-irritating
agent when anionic compounds as used as principle surfactant.

ii. N-alkyl Amino Acids- Posses properties like foaming, cleaning and
conditioning.
2. FOAM BOOSTERS-

The surfactants used in the preparation also serves as foaming agents.

They, form rich lather ie. foam which is stabilized or strengthened by
using a substance called foam boosters. The substances like fatty acid
alkanolamides , amine oxides are used. They make the foam dense and
it to remain for long duration. Usually they are added in quantity of
about 2 to 5%. Fatty acids and fatty alcohols when added in a range of
0.25 to 0.50% concentrations, they also act as foam boosters.
 3. GERMICIDE AND ANTI-DANDRUFF AGENTS
Germicides are the agents which prevent the growth of micro-organism on the scalp
whereas anti- dandruff agents are used to eliminate dandruff from the scalp. Examples of
Germicides are: Quaternary ammonium compounds such as Benzalkonium Chloride,
Cetrimide etc. Examples of Anti-dandruff Agents are: Selenium Sulphide, Cadmium
Sulphide.
4. CONDITIONING AGENTS
These agents improve the condition of hair. These agents have the property of reducing,
electric charges on the hair, as a result, hair become lustrous and hence easily
manageable. These agents exhibit bactericidal effect. Eg- Lanolin, oils,herbal
extracts, egg, amino acids.
 5. PEARLESCENT AGENT
Usually added as adjuvant to the conditioning agents. They improve the conditioning property. Addition of

these agents also imparts brightness to hair. They make the preparation transparent or opaque; hence they

are also called as opacifying agents. The commonly used pearlescent agents are alkanolamides and

coumarins like 4-methyl-7-diethyl amino coumarin, 4-methyl-5, 7-dihydrocoumarin etc. Also, alcohols and

phosphates improve transparent solubilization.

6. SEQUESTRANTS
These are complex forming agents. They form complex with metal ions like calcium and magnesium.

Surfactant are liable to form complex with the metals present in water ie; calcium and magnesium. Hence

addition of sequestrants prevents complex formation between metal and surfactant. The sequestrant itself

forms complex with the metal ions. Thus, it prevents the formation of film on the scalp ie. the film

formed by surfactant and metal ions. The commonly used sequestrants are EDTA, citric acid etc.
7. THICKENING AGENTS
These agents are usually added to make the preparation thick i.e. viscous. Such viscous
preparation facilitates ease of handling. Also, they prevent wastage during application.
Already the addition of various agents, such as surfactants, foam boosters etc. make the
preparation viscous even though thickening agent is added. Substances like methyl cellulose,
alginates, polyvinyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol etc. are commonly used to adjust the
viscosity of a shampoo.
8. PERFUMES
Addition of these agents imparts good fragrance to the shampoo. It also neutralizes the
undesirable odour of other ingredients of formulation especially surfactants. The selected
perfumes must be such that they should retain good smell for fixed period of time even after
shampooing. They are usually obtained from natural sources such as flowers, fruits, herbs etc.
9. PRESERVATIVES-
These agents have the ability to prevent the growth of micro-organisms. They are usually
added to maintain the stability of the preparation for a desired period of time. Shampoo is a
wet preparation that provides a media for various microorganisms hence addition of
preservative is essential. Preservative used should not cause any irritation to the scalp. Para-
hydroxybenzoic acid and phenyl mercuric nitrate are commonly used preservatives.

10. COLOR-
Gives pleasant appearance to the preparation. Various FD & C dyes are used for coloring
the preparation. The added color should be water soluble and it should not impart any color
to the hair or scalp.
 GENERAL METHOD FOR PREPARATION OF SHAMPOO

1.Initially the detergent is converted into a solution form or a detergent solution is

directly obtained from the manufacturer.
2.Take about half of the detergent solution into a separate container. To it, add the
total amount of secondary surfactant ie., alkanolamide. Dissolve the alkanolamide
along with stirring. Sometimes, gentle heat is also applied.
3.To the remaining half of the detergent solution, add suitable amount of
perfuming agent and dissolve it.
4.The perfume solution is then added to the alkanolamide solution. Colour and
preservatives are dissolved separately in sufficient volume of water and then
added to the main solution.
5.The whole solution is mixed well by gentle stirring. Excessive stirring may
lead to bubble formation. Final volume of the preparation is usually adjusted
by the addition of clear sterile waste. This gives clear liquid shampoo.
6.Viscosity adjustment is done by using an electrolyte solution. Usually, a
solution of sodium chloride is added subsequently with constant stirring.
 EVALUATIONS OF SHAMPOO
1.Detergency and cleaning action:
• 5gm sample of soiled human hair is placed at 35°c in 200ml of water containing of 1 gm
of shampoo.

• The flask is shaken 50 times a minute for 4 minutes. Then washed once again with
sufficient amount of water, then after filter the hair dried and weighed.

• The amount of soil is removed under these condition is calculated.

 2. Test for detergency(Wetting Test):
• Water is taken in a measuring cylinder. The weighed cotton is allowed to sink in water.
The time required to sink the cotton to the bottom of water is noted.

• The experiment is repeated with detergent solution. The same weight of cotton is allowed
to sink in detergent solution. The time required to sink the cotton to the bottom of
detergent solution is noted.

• The time required to sink the cotton in water is more than 8 hours but in detergent solution
the cotton may sink in a few seconds.
3. Rinsing:
It gives the measurement of how much of washing required for complete removal of

shampoo.

4. Viscosity:
Viscosity of the liquid shampoo is determined using a Brookfield viscometer. 100 mL
of the shampoo is taken in a beaker and the spindle is dipped in it for about 5 min and
then the reading is taken.
6. Evaluation of Safety

• Skin Toxicity Test-

a. A six set of skin albino rabbits are selected.

b. On the skin of each rabbit, a round patch is made by removing hair.

c. Dilute preparations (8-10%) of shampoo is usually applied onto the patches of rabbits.

d. Allowed to react for a period of 3-4hrs.

e. It is then completely removed from the skin.

f. Skin is examined for erythema, edema etc.

7. Eye toxicity Test

• A set of six adult albino rabbits are selected

• One eye is considered as Test and another as Control eye.

• To each of Test eyes of six rabbits, shampoo is applied.

• Washing is done after 20 seconds with 200ml of water.

• The eyes are rewashed after 5 minutes and then after 24hrs.
• The control eyes are also washed on first day and then after 24hrs.

• The test eyes are washed on first day and then after 24hrs.

• The Test eye are observed at 1,24,48,72hrs .

• Also examined on 7th and 14th day.

• Toxic-if iris and corneal leisions which remains for more than 7

days.