Creative collection

Limited

Created # Nurujjaman Riad ( QM TIGL CCL-1A )

 TRAINING TOPIC

@ What is Quality?

Quality is the things to which an object satisfies a specified set of

attributes or requirements.

@ Different between Quality Assurance & Quality Control

Basically, quality control and quality assurance are two elements of quality management. But sometimes
those elements make a little bit of a mix-up about the differences between quality assurance and quality
control. For this reason, here given a brief difference between quality assurance and quality control.
@ Garments Defects Types/ Classification

According to the garments quality inspection, there are three

categories of workmanship, functional, and appearance defects:

1. Major Defects
2. Minor Defects
3. Critical Defects
Major defect

A major defect is a defect that affects the Aesthetics of the final

product, the durability of the product. Due to this the garment is
complained about and returned. That is, there are defects in the clothes
that are noticeable. Due to this, if there is a major defect in any
garment, it is returned by the customer. For example:- Some of the
Major defects are Intermittent stitching, Large stitch gaps between
stitches, and Problems like open seams are called major defects.

Minor defects

A minor defect is a defect that is not clearly visible to the eye. Not
affecting the function, and aesthetics of the product. That is, if there is
a minor defect in any garment, then there is no difficulty in buying the
garment. Some examples of minor defects are explained. For example:-
small uncut thread, uneven lob.

Critical defects

A critical defect is a bigger defect than the above two defects. It

directly impacts product function. Generally, a critical defect renders
the garments unusable. If a critical defect is found anywhere then it is
better not to buy the garment. Because critical defects include various
problems that render the garment unusable. Some examples of critical
defects are:- Breaking something like metal and staying in clothes, No
buttons in clothes, and Having problems with clothing care labels.
These problems are classified as critical defects.
List of Major, Minor, and Critical Defects in the Garments Industry..

Critical Defect Major Defect Minor Defect

Insect in Garment Skip Stitch Uncut Thread

Broken Needle in Garment Broken Stitch Gathering or bunched stitching

Wet Garment Down Stitch Insecure shoulder tape

Mold in Garment Raw Edge Darts not properly located

Broken Button Open Stitch Uneven Lob

Loose Button (Kids Item) Pleat Broken Yarn

Melt Button Puckering Miss pick

Button Sharpness Twisting Needle mark

Nail Sharpness Short Stitch Over Stitch

Barring, dye lines, and dirty marks not

PO Number Mistake Crooked label
effected appearance

Style Number Mistake Uneven Stitch Wavy Stitch

Country Code Mistake Uneven Join Print missing

Season Number Mistake Join Stitch Collar Point inconsistence nose

Minor variation in shading between

Print Missing in Garment Slanted
garment pieces

Dirt material that can easily be washed

Connecting Thread (Kids Item) Print Missing
off.

Over Moisture Bar tack Missing Uneven Stitch

Style Mistake Bar tack Displace Pleat (that can be easily removed).

Expired Chemical use for Dyeing Fabric Fault Fabric bowed less than 1/4″

Untrimmed thread ends 1/2″ or less than

Sharp edge Shedding
1/2″ (inside or top side)

Fabric flaws (slub, knot, missing, thick Barring, dye lines, and dirty marks not
Oil Stain
yarn) less than 1/4″ effected the appearance

Buttons/poppers insecure, broken, The price information on hangtag

Oil Spot
missing, or poorly attached (kids) missing

Rusting or tarnishing of buttons/poppers Dirty Spot

Washing symbol on the care label

Print Bowing
missing

The price information on the hangtag

Uneven Stitch Density
missing

Open Seam
@ What is AQL ?

The acceptable quality level (AQL) is a measure applied to products and defined as the “quality level
that is the worst
tolerable.” The AQL tells you how many defective components are considered acceptable during
random sampling quality inspections. It is usually expressed as a percentage or ratio of the number of
defects compared to the total quantity.

Mostly used AQL example ...

# 0.65
#1
# 1.5
# 2.5
# 4.0
# 6.0

@ What is SQL ?
The level of defects with the product submit to customer QC for final inspection is
called submitted quality level (SQL), whether the defects rate is acceptable to pass or
not.

Total defects Qty

100
Total sample Qty

SQL Can calculate daily , weekly or monthly base on inspection qty .

@ What is OQL ?
Outgoing quality level (OQL) or AOQL (Average Outgoing Quality Level)

OQL calculation theory is same as SQL but its calculation based on Pass inspection Qty .
@ What is the reason for stitching scoop pockets both sides from top ?
The front pockets must be topstitched around the curve and not be pulled straight to topstitch them. If they are pulled
straight when top stitched, then they will have puckering and fullness on the curves which is not acceptable. That is why
recommended to top stitch both the side in one direction starting from top to side for consistent pocket shapes.
@ Abbreviation
• PDCA - Plan Do Check Action
• SWOT - Strength Weakness Opportunity Threat
• NO - Next Opportunity
• Newspaper - North East West
South Past and Present Even
Report
• BOM - Bill of Material
• DUH - Defect
Unit Per
Hundred
• AQL -
Acceptable
Quality Level
• RPM -
Revolution Per
Minute
• SKU - Stock
Keeping Unit
• SPI - Stitch Per
Inch
• SPC - Stitch Per
CM
• SMV - Standard
Minute Value
• SOP - Standard
Operating
Procedure
• TOP - Top of
Production
• KPI - Key
@Right First Time (RFT)
Performance
Indicator
• TTF - Test to
Failure
•
RFT GSD - General
is the vice versa of defects %, anything garments maker make should be
rightSewing
at theDatafirst time & self check before start next operation . For sampling
• PO-
and FinalPurchase
inspection pass rate, the RFT target should be 98% or above in the
Order
garments industry.
@ 6M’s and 6S’

6M’s 6S’s
1. Manpower 1. Sort 1. Seiri
2. Machine 2. Set In Order 2. Seiton
3. Method 3. Shine 3. Seiso
4. Material 4. Standardize 4. Seiketsu
5. Management 5. Sustain 5. Shitsuke
6. Money 6. Safety 6. Safety (English)

@ Types of sewing Machines:

1. Single/Double Needle Chain Stitch Machine 7. Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine
2. Bartack Machine 8. Double Needle Lock Stitch Machine
3. Auto Loop Attach Machine 9. Overlock Sewing Machine
4. PLK Machine 10. Flatlock Sewing Machine
5. Kansai Special Machine 11. Feed Of The Arm Machine
6. Vbmc (Bottom Hem) 12. Button Attaching Machine
13. Reece Hole Machine

@ Basic sewing machine in Ha-Meem

1. Single Needle Machine, 2. Double Needle Machine, 3. Over Lock Machine, 4. Interlock Machine. 5.Chain Stitch Machine, 6. Flat Lock
Machine, 7. Kansai Machine, 8. Feed of The Arm Machine, 09.Reech Hole Machine, 10. Auto Loop Bartack Machine, 11. Bartack
Machine.

@ Machine wise Needle types:

Single Needle DB / DP
Double Needle
Bartack
Embroidery Machine DP
Auto Loop Attach
PLK
Button Hole Machine
Double / Single Needle Chain Stitch TV
Feed Off the Arm
Kansai Special DV / TV / UO
Flat Lock UY
Over Lock DC
Reech Hole DO
@ History of the apparel sector at BD
The apparel industry of Bangladesh started its journey in the 1980s and has come to the position it is in today. The late Nurool Quader
Khan was the pioneer of the readymade garment industry in Bangladesh. He had a vision of how to transform the country. In 1978, he
sent 130 trainees to South Korea where they learned how to produce readymade garments.

With those trainees, he set up the first factory "Desh Garments” to produce garments for export. At the same time, the late Akhter
Mohammad Musa of Bond Garments, the late Mohammad Reazuddin of Reaz Garments, MdHumayun of Paris Garments, Engineer
Mohammad Fazlul Azim of Azim Group, Major (Retd) Abdul Mannan of Sunman Group, M Shamsur Rahman of Stylecraft Limited, the
first President of BGMEA, AM Subid Ali of Aristocrat Limited also came forward and established some of the first garment factories in
Bangladesh.

The export-oriented readymade garment industry emerged at this time. Daewoo of South Korea was an early entrant in Bangladesh,
when it established a joint venture on 27 December 1977 with Desh Garments Ltd. making it the first export oriented ready-made
garment industry in Bangladesh.

@ Sewing machine implemented history

Sewing machine is a machine used to sew fabric and materials together with thread. Sewing machines were invented during the first
Industrial Revolution to decrease the amount of manual sewing work performed in clothing companies. Since the invention of the first
sewing machine, generally considered to have been the work of Englishman Thomas Saint in 1790,[1] the sewing machine has greatly
improved the efficiency and productivity of the clothing industry.

@ Embroidery Thread for Mens & Womens

(Mens-Nylbond) & (Womens-Aptan)

@ Parts of the needle and part wise importance.

Butt: This is the top end of the needle that is inserted into the machine. The butt features a beveled end to allow for easy
insertion into the needle bar.

Shank: The shank is also inserted into the machine. The needle shank must be the right shape for your machine. Needles for
home sewing machines often have a shank with one flat side and one rounded side for proper positioning. Commercial or
industrial needles can have grooved, threaded, or round shanks.

Shoulder: This is the slope between the shank and the shaft or blade. Some needle brands will add a color-coding to the
shoulder to distinguish the types and sizes of needles.

Blade: Sometimes also known as the shaft, this is the body of the needle below the shank. The size of the needle is
determined by the diameter of the blade.

Groove: This is the slit above the eye, and it is the part that reduces friction and creates smooth stitches. The groove cradles
the thread and guides it to the eye. The length and width of the groove varies between needle sizes.

Scarf: The scarf is the indentation above the eye that allows the thread to be grabbed by the bobbin hook under the throat
plate to create a stitch. A long scarf helps to eliminate skipped stitches by allowing the hook to more easily loop the thread.
A shorter scarf requires a well-timed machine. The size of the scarf varies with different needle types.

Eye: The hole at the end of the needle. This is where the thread passes through. The size and shape of the eye is different on
varying needle types.

Point and Tip: These parts are the very base of the needle. The point and tip vary with different needle types. Different
shapes of points and sharpness of tips are used to sew through various materials. For example, a sharper point is needed to
punch through leather, while a blunt tip is better for stretchy materials.

@ Function of needles
Basic Function of Needle
1. To create a passage in the material for the thread to pass through.
2. To carry the needle thread through the material and form a loop which can be picked up by the hook or looper
mechanism.
3. To pass the needle thread through the loop formed by the looper mechanism on machines other than
lockstitch.
@ Machine SPI
Normal Machine SPI Around 5500
SPI- Stitch per Inch.

@ S/N machine- Fee-

dog mechanism
The fee dog is moved upwards and forwards through slits in the throat plate to engage with the underside of material being
sewn and to advance it by a distance of one stitch length. Contact between fee dog and material is controlled by the spring-
loaded pressure foot. The fee dog is then lowered and move back to its starting position.

@ Parts of the S/N machine and their importance

A single needle lock stitch machine is stitch by one needle of a machine by lock stitch.

Some of Parts of Single Needle Lock Stitch Sewing Machine:

 1. Foot pedal:
It controls the speed of the machine which depends on the force exerted on it. But it is not an essential part of high-speed
sewing machines as the machine speed can be set by one single adjustment and start and stop of the sewing machine is then
controlled with the push of a button.
2. Hand wheel:
It is used for slowly raising and lowering the sewing needle manually to provide better control to position fabric under the
needle. The clutch knob positioned inside the wheel acts as a safety feature, that is, when the knob is pulled out, it avoids the
needle from jabbing up and down while winding a bobbin.
3. Reverse lever:
It is situated on the front side of the machine. This is used for making reverse stitching while sewing at the end of every seam to
secure it.
4. Bobbin winder:
It is used to wind the bobbin thread on the empty bobbin. Bobbin winders can be located at the top or right side of the machine.
5. Thread take-up lever:
During sewing, the top thread passes through the thread take-up lever. Thread take-up lever moves up and down with the
needle.
6. Needle clamp screw:
The needle clamp screw holds the needle in its actual place.
7. Presser’s foot:
Presser’s foot holds the fabric in its definite place.
8. Fee dog:
During sewing, the feed dog pulls the fabric forward.
9. Needle:
The needle is used to form a stitch in the garments.
10. Throat Plate:
This metal plate, sometimes called a needle plate, sits below the needle and presser foot. A small opening in the plate allows the
bobbin thread to come out and the needle to pass through to make stitches

@ Conversion kit and importance of it.

Needle: Needle plays an important role in sewing. Hand sewing and machine sewing are two sewing techniques for garment
production. In modern times, huge garments are sewn with the help of a sewing machine. During sewing, the needle passed
through the fabric and connected two or more parts by producing loops between these two

Needle Thread: Sewing threads are special kinds of yarns that are engineered and designed to pass through a sewing
machine rapidly. They form efficient stitches without breaking or becoming distorted during the useful life of the product.
The basic function of a thread is to deliver aesthetics and performance in stitches and seams.
Pressure Foot: A presser foot keeps the fabric flat so that it does not rise and fall with the needle and pucker as it is stitched.
When especially thick workpieces are to be sewn, such as quilts, a specialized attachment called a walking foot is often used
rather than a presser foot.

Throat Plate: A small opening in the plate allows the bobbin thread to come out and the needle to pass through to make
stitches. Most throat plates have small lines notched to the right of the presser foot; these serve as guides for seam
allowances and for sewing straight line.

Fee Dog: Fee dog is the basic component of a sewing machine. It is used to control the motion of the fabric. The needle plate
is used to cover the fee dog and the fee dog pushes fabric towards the needle. After that, stitching is done on the fabric.

Bobbin Thread: A bobbin is the tiny spool of thread that sits in the bottom of your sewing machine. It assists the upper
thread by making stitches on the bottom side of the fabric. It helps hold seams together.
@ Type and Importance of labels and content of care labels with picture learning.
Care instructions are small solutions to big problems. Care labels provide guidelines to consumers about apparel care, and
the best cleaning procedures to be used for a particular combination of fabric, thread decoration and construction
techniques. Following the instructions on the care labels is an assurance that the appearance and fit of the garment will be
maintained after repeated cleaning treatments.
From a manufacturer’s point of view, damage to garments from incorrect cleaning methods can lead to complaints; costly
customer returns and a bad image. Whereas accurate and clearly written care labels can prevent customer dissatisfaction.
From a consumer’s point of view, accurate and clearly written care instructions serve as a cleaning guide and influence
purchase. Garments with ease of care are often preferred over garments with complicated or difficult to understand care
procedures.

Five basic symbols are used in the international care labelling system in this order:

Some info of Care Label:

1. Brand Name
2. Country Wise Size
3. Fabric Content
4. Country of Origin
5. Care Symbols

@ AQL for Accessories & Fabric

Accessories AQL- First 10% must be checked, if the audit fails then 100% must be checked, Some of customer using AQL
0.65
Fabric AQL - First 10% must be checked, if the audit fails then 20% must be checked. If it is small qty than 100% .

@ Shrinkage Tolerance
{(Length Wise (+- 1%) (Width Wise (+- .75%)}

@ Shrinkage process and pattern segregation method .

Shrinkage process
The sample, which is done shrinkage test, spread on table. Then a glass template put on sample fabric which is square size.
There are 4 marks on glass template and distance between two mark is 50 cm. Marking the sample fabric by unchangeable
marker. Then sample is sewn by hand sewing machine. Sample is ready for washing. Simple wash the fabric as per style
recipe. after washing the fabric is taken out. Dry the sample as per method minimum 4 hours. Get the mean value of
wrap-wise and weft wise readings to get the Accurate Shrinkage or Stretch.
 Template

Pattern segregation method .

Need to do proper shrinkage and keep records accordingly. After making the record, have to segregate the shrinkage per
group and range like -1% to 6% length wise & -10% to 15% width wise, & must need to make length wise 1% to 3% one
group and 4% to 6% another one group& width wise 10% to 11.5% & 12% to 13.5% because of we maintain length wise
tolerance 1% & width wise tolerance 0.75%

@ Spec preparation and how to make before wash spec by considering customer spec
After Wash MMNT
We can make before wash spec according to customer spec by using a formula ( X SKG% + After Wash MMNT )
(100-SKG%)
& We need shrinkage% also,

For example,
Waist = 32” (As per customer spec)
Shrinkage= 12%

32
Then before wash spec will be = X 12 + 32 (By using above formula)
(100-12)

=36.36
= 36 3/8”

@ Spec calculation method

1/8 = .125
1/4 = .25
3/8 = .375
1/2 = .5
5/8 = .625
3/4 = .75
7/8 = .875
1=1
@ Awareness about Inch / Feet / Yards and meters
 60” in a Mmnt tape.
 1.5 Meter in a Mmnt tape.
 150 CM in a Mmnt tape.
 12” = 1’
 30 CM = 12”
 100 CM = 1 Meter
 1’ = 1 Feet
 1 Yard = 36"
 1 Yard = 90 CM
 1 Yard = 3’
 1” = 2.54 CM

@ Divide 1” into 8 parts

1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 7/8, 1

@ Fabric storing system

Pyramid

@ Different between cut pattern and finish patterns

Pattern: Pattern is a hard paper on which different component of garments of a particular style are sketched according to
the measurement of the garments

Cut Pattern: In cut pattern have sewing allowance.

Finish Pattern: In Finish pattern has no sewing allowance.

@ Required sample list

Development Sample Fit Sample

PP Sample TOP Sample
CTL Sample
Shipment sample
@ What is zero shrinkage pattern and method of adding shrinkage to the pattern
A pattern made according to Customer’s measurement sheet, or a pattern to which no shrinkage is added, is called a zero-
shrinkage pattern.

@ Importance of pilot run and how it is works while feeding the line

Pilot run is to check production techniques and quality requirement. Pilot run pieces are thoroughly checked by factory
quality department at every stage of production. Based on the pilot run result bulk production is planned. Through pilot run
process, production team learns about the critical operations in the styles, identify potential bottleneck operations. Based on
their learning in pilot production run they prepare themselves for bulk production. Just after pilot run factory loads bulk
production.

There are many other benefits than the above. Like, cross checking the estimated raw material requirement for fabrics and
threads. Re-planning of additional processes requirement maintain minimum WIP in the production line.

A pilot run is a low-volume production run to test and validate that production can run smoothly. The reason you have a
pilot run is so you can catch all the issues before you produce too many products.

@ Importance of proper listening and learning prior start the work & giving answers
Before starting any work, we should properly listen to the opinion of the authorities and know the work well, otherwise the
chances of any kind of crookedness in the work increases, which destroys our morale. It even wastes our time and
personality.

@ 4 Point Inspection
4 Point inspection system is the most widely used system for fabric inspection methods. This system is used in garment
industries in the fabric department. To decide whether fabric roll is acceptable for next process, or they should reject the roll
and lot.

Process of 4 Point Inspection

To analyze the fabric after fabric making

1. The roll is taken on inspection machine as shown in the image

 2. A standard sheet as per company format is given to the operator
3. Operator fills the required details of fabric such as sort, color, actual width, and actual length.
4. Defects in both warp as well as weft directions will be assigned and marking of defects is done with the chalk or
sticker
5. Points under the following criteria with respect to length must be given. Following chart of 1-4 points marking is
given.
6. Total points must be summarized with actual length and actual width.
7. Finally, calculation is to be done which will give total number of fabric defects per 100 square yards.

How are points Assigned?

Defect Range Points Evaluation

Up to 3 inches 1 Point
Greater than 3 inches and less than 6 inches 2 Points
Greater than 6 inches and less than 9 inches 3 Points
Greater than 9 inches 4 Points
Hole in the fabric less than 1 inch 2 Points
Hole in fabric greater than 1 inch 4 Points

To following formula is used to determine the point count for each roll

Points per 100 square yards= (Total points found in roll * 36*100) / (Inspected length in yard*Fabric width (inches))

CARE LABEL-
@ Country wise size
@ Country of origin
@ Fabric content.
@ How to identify USA/Mexico/ International label
@ Care symbol details.
@ Care instruction details.
For example, Tex 40 – A length of 1000 meters of thread will give 40 grams of weight.
Tkt: Ticket numbering is a commercial numbering system. Ticket numbers are merely the manufacturer’s reference numbers
for the size of a given thread. The Metric Count and Cotton Count systems use a ticket numbering system to give an easy
approximation of the specific size of the finished thread.

In the Metric Ticket system, the figure quoted for thread size is the length that would weigh 3 grams. The thread could be
made from a single yarn or multiple yarn.
For example, a thread of Tex 40 is Tkt. 75 and Nm 80/2 is Tkt. 120

@ Calculation method of thread tex & tkt and formula for it.
The formula used to convert Tex into Tkt & Tkt into Tex:
Tkt = (100/Tex No) X 3
Tex= (100/Tkt No) X 3

@ Reason for
the same
number shading
on thread cones
Due to different
consignment, slightly
shading can be seen
in the same number
yarn.

@ Basic testing requirements

1. Tear Strength
2. Tensile Strength
3. Appearance After Home Laundering
4. Color Fastness to Rubbing
5.Failure in sewn seams
6.Button Attachments Strength
7. pH Value
8. Fabric Weight
9. Belt Loop Attachment
Strength
10. Fabric strength at back
pocket corner area for
denims

@ Pull test & pinch test

process on daily production

11.Attachment safety test must be

performed on products each
attachment machine at least 2 times
5.If test is failed then machine should be stopped and notify supervisors. Then make sure all the garments are 100% checked
for this specific operation those are processed from last test time to till now.
6. Record in machine repair sheet
7. Repair machine and run 50 attachment calibration tests
8.In the final audit, for the order quantity range 2-2000 units, 2 garments to be tested and for every additional order
quantity of 1000 units 1 additional garments to be tested.
9. 90 N or 21 Lbs. of force applied to snap, button, any small part for 10 seconds or apply customer’s parameters if
specified.

@ Fish bone /5 Why analysis and PDCA.

Fish bone: A cause and effect diagram, often called a “fishbone” diagram, can help in brainstorming to identify possible
causes of a problem and in sorting ideas into useful categories. A fishbone diagram is a visual way to look at cause and
effect. It is a more structured approach than some other tools available for brainstorming causes of a problem (e.g., the Five
Whys tool). The problem or effect is displayed at the head or mouth of the fish. Possible contributing causes are listed on the
smaller “bones” under various cause categories. A fishbone diagram can be helpful in identifying possible causes for a
problem that might not otherwise be considered by directing the team to look at the categories and think of alternative
causes. Include team members who have personal knowledge of the processes and systems involved in the problem or event
to be investigated.
5 Why analysis: Five whys (5 whys) are a problem-solving method that explores the underlying cause-and-effect of
particular problems.
The primary goal is to determine the root cause of a defect or a problem by successively asking the question “Why?”. The
number ‘5’ here comes from the anecdotal observation that five iterations of asking why is usually sufficient enough to
reveal the root cause.
In some cases, it may take more or fewer whys, depending on the depth of the root cause.

PDCA: The PDCA cycle is a four-step technique that is used to solve business problems. Many managers unknowingly use the
PDCA Cycle as it encompasses much of the same framework as strategic management. The last step of the PDCA Cycle (act)
calls for corrective action to stimulate and sustain continuous business improvement.
@ Self-improving method by doing SWOT analysis.
SWOT: SWOT (strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, and threats) analysis is a method for identifying and analyzing internal
strengths and weaknesses and external opportunities and threats that shape current and future operations and help develop
strategic goals. SWOT analyses are not limited to companies. Individuals can also use SWOT analysis to engage in
constructive introspection and form personal improvement goals.

@ How to conduct pull testing and machine calibration system?

Pull Test: Pull testing is the process used to measure seal strength to pull apart two bonded surfaces. Testing is done for
several reasons including material selection, sealer, and sterilization validation as well as shelf-life validation.

(Pull test machine calibration system: Need to calibrate machine a minimum of once during a week by supplier m/c
calibrating tools. a selected template uses to calibrate the machine to seek out the accuracy of a machine by pulling that
into a machine of known weight.

@How to do Pinch setting ?

Pinch Setting: Pinch setting is checked by Digital Vernier Caliper Machine. Basic pinch is what two components of the snap
button measure when they come together without fabric between them. Compressed Foundation Thickness (CFT) is the
minimum and maximum compressed fabric thickness where the snap will be located
@ Necessary things during Sewing line feeding
Approved Sample, Tech Pack, Trim Card, Cut Pattern, Thread Sequence, Measurement Spec, PP Comment & Line feeding report.

@ Write a short brief about traffic light system procedure!

This is a random (zigzag) inspection system. Traffic Light System is a visual control for highlighting quality issues in sewing
line. A traffic light quality system works in a similar fashion to the transportation traffic light system works. Three different
color cards are placed in each operator’s place. Green indicates that Quality meets the customers’ Standard. Yellow
indicates that a minor fault has been found and caution is required. Red indicates that the Quality Standard does not meet
the customers’ standard requirement.

@ Why are we adding baby hem & what are they ?

We are using baby hem to prevent Lycra breakage.

There are 3 types of baby hem we use in AE.

1. Regular Baby Hem.
2. Full Baby Hem.
3. Tracking Baby Hem.

@ Discussed about thread details.

Thread: A thread is a long strand of material, often composed of several filaments or fibres, used for joining, creating or
decorating textiles. In early humanity Egyptians were known for creating thread using plant fibers, wool and hair.
Today, thread can also be made of many different materials including but not limited
to cotton, wool, linen, nylon, silk, polyester etc.

Thread cone details: There is a sticker on the upper part of the thread cone, where the thread brand name, thread
length, tkt number, tex size, shade number and other information are given.
 @ What is the importance of Size set, pilot, PP meeting?

Size set-The purpose of the size set is to check the fit of the garment in different sizes. In this stage, factory develops
samples in multiple sizes. From the outcome of size set sample easily can get feedback if anything needs to be
corrected. For size set gmts must follow actual fabric, trims, approved pp sample, approved wash standard & buyer
given tech pack.

Pilot-Pilot run garments are usually made by applying size set correction, before starting the bulk production, a pilot run
is made by making 10 pcs of each size garment, through which we can finally correct all the problems of the style and
start the bulk production.

PP meeting- PP meeting means pre-production meeting, usually this meeting is held to discuss all the problems found
during the size set & pilot run stage & their solution, during PPM Make concern everyone about production process.
This meeting helps to clear up any misconception about the product and any other issues. Group discussion helps to
improve production& quality.

@ Why are we adding knee marks at inseam & out seam?

We are applying in inseam & out seam knee marking to prevent leg twisting, if we can match the markings perfectly
during the sewing, we can prevent twisting as well as get rid of excess uneven puckering from seam.

@ What is the overlock gauge requirement?

Except inseam overlock width of 1/4”, all other processes overlock width must be 3/16”.

@ Information on thread cones differences.

Depending on the tex of the yarn, the size of the yarn cone is determined. Because the higher the tex of the yarn, the thicker the
yarn becomes. For this reason, if the size of the cone of the yarn looks the same, the length of the yarn is different due to the
difference in tex.

@ Learnt about thread TEX and TKT.

Tex: TEX is a metric system of textile yarn and thread numbering. Tex is defined as the weight of 1000 meters of thread in
grams.