marindalois asked:
Hi! This is purely out of reaction to that Napoleonic portrait with the carrick coat and bc I recently started following (and enjoying) your blog, but is there any chance you know the name of this kind of toga-like cloak from the late 1790s? I drew one recently from a bunch of painting references but haven't been able to associate a term.
These are 1798 Louis-Léopold Boilly - Artists in Isabey's Studio and 1798 Jacques-Augustin-Catherine Pajou - Portrait of a family respectively
Either way, love your commentary on 18th-19th century fashions!
Hello, and my apologies for taking forever to answer this!! I didn’t forget about this ask, I just didn’t feel like I had a satisfactory answer.
As far as I can tell, these are both examples of a loose-fitting greatcoat or cloak. It feels anachronistic in an era when men’s coats are getting a lot tighter and more fitted, but 1800ish men still had billowing cloaks and greatcoats (sometimes).
Men’s long greatcoat of 1809-1810 at centre, from Handbook of English Costume in the 19th Century by Phillis and C. Willett Cunnington.
The same source describes men’s overcoats of the period 1800 to 1810:
THE BOX COAT was a very large and loose great coat with one or more capes. Originally a driving-coat for wearing on the box of a coach this came to be worn, in cold weather, even on foot. […]
THE CLOAK was not in fashion though often worn when travelling on the outside of a coach. It was very long and usually fastened by straps down the front.
The Dictionary of Fashion History by Valerie Cumming dates box coats to the late 18th century, so that’s one possible answer.
I’m going to need some kind of expert on Freaky Hairstyles of the 18th Century to weigh in on this one (which is why I’m turning to my tumblr pals).
I thought this portrait of a young William Henry Harrison was c. 1790s but the National Gallery of Art dates it 1800. (It may still depict a slightly younger Harrison, since he left the US military in 1798 and this look screams military).
Anywho—WHAT is happening to his hair? I have seen mullet-like late 18thc. men’s styles that pair shorter fringe/top with more length in back: but not this part well behind his ears that attaches a long braided queue to the back of his head?? It looks almost like a French braid going up the back of his head, I’m not sure how it’s secured (ribbons? hair pins?)
A comment from @northernmariette on the clothing conference at Fort Meigs.
It was nice to be back at Fort Meigs, but I am tall and shy and sat in the back of the room during the fashion show, taking a few bad pics because of the obstructed view.
I enjoyed the lectures and gathered some nice references. But I didn’t go to the evening soirée event because I was too busy with other things.
The “beginner” fibre arts classes were above my level tbh; everyone was very friendly and nice but they were also Level 9000 Sewing Wizards and I felt out of place.
Light Summer Hat and Fashionable Walking Sticks for the Year 1801. July 10, 1801.
Credit line: The Elisha Whittelsey Collection, The Elisha Whittelsey Fund, 1959
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/392710
A Senior Non-Commissioned Officer, Probably a Sergeant, 2nd (or the Queen’s Royal) Regiment of Foot, by unknown artist c. 1806.
I love that this includes a woman and child in the background! The UK National Army Museum describes her as probably “a sutleress,” but she looks more like a soldier’s or even officer’s wife. And to be fair, she might also be a washerwoman or sutler. I don’t think people appreciate how many women and children were involved in Napoleonic era wars, accompanying the huge baggage train of the army.
Oil Painting, 1802-1805, French.
By François Gerard.
Portraying Juliette Recamier in a white dress and yellow shawl.
Musée Carnavalet.