- A vernacular pebbled landscape
- Chapter
- University College London
- pp. 381-395
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- Additional Information
Pebbles have always, until comparatively recently, provided the principal building stone in the East Devon heathland landscape. They are still common in the vernacular architecture but have never previously been documented. As part of the Pebblebeds research project all structures in the 17 villages and in hamlets and farmland surrounding the heathlands in the East Devon area were recorded and photographed to create the first photographic archive, which is now lodged in the Devon Records Office, Exeter.
The traditional cob and thatch cottages throughout most of the area were invariably provided with foundation courses for the walls of large pebbles, as were barns and other farm buildings. Building structures with pebbles reached its peak from about the mid-1800s to the early 1900s. Ottery St Mary, Budleigh Salterton, Woodbury, Newton Poppleford and other villages were once paved with pebbles. ‘Popple’ is the local term for pebble and the village name Newton Poppleford refers to the ford over the pebbles that form the bed of the river Otter here. Sadly, today they have mostly disappeared beneath concrete and tarmac. The majority of the pebbles for walls, paths, gutters and edging came from the fields or small quarries around the area, and it is still possible today to buy pebbles for landscaping gardens and building from the Rockbeare quarries.
The earliest 6-inch maps of the Ordnance Survey of this area, dating back to 1890 and 1891, record numerous larger and smaller ‘gravel’ (actually pebble and sand) pits. In all there were about 67 smaller and larger workings. They are concentrated along the western scarp of the heathlands, with smaller numbers along the eastern edges of the pebblebed exposures and a few in the middle of the heathlands. Most are close to or on roads (Figure 13.1). Some of these pits to the south of BlackHill, around the Warren and on Aylesbeare Common, covered quite an extensive area of shallow workings. Smaller pits were often little more than irregular scoops of material used locally.
The finer paths and walls built of smaller pebbles of similar size were collected from Budleigh Salterton beach, but this is now illegal. This was the practice in the 1800s, when pebbles of similar size and colour were brought from the beach by pony and trap. This is known to have happened at Lympstone, where a John Long brought pebbles from the beach and built a path with a central line of black pebbles and the date ‘1861’ depicted in black pebbles (Figure 13.2a).
All the villages have distinctive pebble structures that make them unique to this area of East Devon. However, it has to be said that the use of pebbles is not exclusive to this area, as beach pebbles or small stones are used for paths, roads and building foundations in coastal areas in the surrounding counties of Cornwall, Dorset and Somerset. This chapter highlights examples from the 829 recorded structures from the East Devon towns and villages. Table 13.1 details the types of extant structures recorded between 2008 and 2010. These are most frequent in the villages of Newton Poppleford and Colaton Raleigh on the eastern side of the Pebblebed heathlands and in the seaside town of Budleigh Salterton to the south. On the western side of the heathlands they are most frequent in Woodbury and Topsham on the Exe estuary.
Table 13.1Pebble structures documented in the East Devon area.
Place |
Wall |
Surface |
Building |
Others |
Total | |||||||||
Boundary |
Retaining |
Boundary/ retaining |
Pebble foundation |
Capping |
Path: p |
Path: d |
Yard |
Edge |
Gutter |
Barn |
Other | |||
Aylesbeare |
6 |
0 |
4 |
2 |
0 |
3 |
1 |
1 |
4 |
0 |
2 |
1 |
0 |
24 |
Budleigh Salterton |
15 |
9 |
20 |
14 |
2 |
2 |
3 |
1 |
2 |
12 |
0 |
2 |
1 |
83 |
Colaton Raleigh |
51 |
18 |
15 |
7 |
0 |
8 |
1 |
3 |
5 |
3 |
25 |
3 |
3 |
142 |
Dalditch |
8 |
1 |
0 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
3 |
0 |
0 |
13 |
East Budleigh |
5 |
1 |
1 |
0 |
2 |
18 |
0 |
3 |
1 |
10 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
41 |
Exmouth |
2 |
5 |
0 |
0 |
1 |
2 |
1 |
1 |
6 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
1 |
19 |
Exeter |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
7 |
2 |
3 |
28 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
2 |
42 |
Fluxton |
5 |
3 |
0 |
1 |
0 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
1 |
0 |
2 |
0 |
0 |
13 |
Honiton |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
2 |
2 |
0 |
13 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
17 |
Kersbrook |
2 |
0 |
0 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
1 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
1 |
5 |
Knowle |
12 |
1 |
0 |
3 |
4 |
3 |
0 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
27 |
1 |
0 |
2 |
0 |
0 |
12 |
3 |
8 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
3 |
26 | ||
Metcombe |
4 |
9 |
2 |
7 |
0 |
1 |
0 |
1 |
6 |
0 |
2 |
2 |
0 |
37 |
Newton Poppleford |
33 |
18 |
17 |
9 |
0 |
7 |
1 |
6 |
7 |
1 |
4 |
7 |
0 |
110 |
Otterton |
4 |
0 |
0 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
1 |
1 |
5 |
0 |
1 |
0 |
1 |
13 |
Ottery St Mary |
2 |
3 |
0 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
7 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
27 |
Southerton |
2 |
1 |
4 |
0 |
0 |
13 |
0 |
3 |
0 |
0 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
11 |
Topsham |
1 |
1 |
0 |
2 |
0 |
28 |
6 |
7 |
28 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
73 |
Venn Ottery |
0 |
1 |
3 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
6 |
West Hill |
0 |
2 |
9 |
1 |
0 |
2 |
0 |
0 |
1 |
0 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
16 |
Whimple |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
1 |
2 |
0 |
1 |
0 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
1 |
6 |
Woodbury |
51 |
8 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
62 |
Woodbury Salterton |
5 |
1 |
2 |
1 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
10 |
Yettington |
3 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
2 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
6 |
Total |
212 |
83 |
80 |
52 |
12 |
111 |
21 |
34 |
126 |
28 |
42 |
15 |
13 |
829 |
Note: Surfaces: path, p: pebble path; path, d: decorative pebble path; edge: pebble edge to path.
The use of pebbles as a building material would have been an everyday occurrence, because they were readily available, but people of status evidently used flint or brick in this area because it made a distinctive material statement, reinforcing their social distinction from ordinary people building with local pebbles. The absence of pebble structures among the principal structures among the grounds of Bicton House, at Knowle House and at Tidwell Manor and elsewhere is symptomatic of this.
The Rolle family at Bicton assiduously avoided using the local vernacular building material, pebbles, in any of their Gothic constructions such as the shell house and the hermitage even though they might have provided a suitably rustic effect. Interestingly the reverse was the case at Killerton House near Cullompton, where Lydia Dyke Acland had a ‘Bear Hut’ built, with part of the flooring consisting of pebbles laid in a pattern and pebbles used in the surrounding area outside (Figure 13.2b). But in this case pebbles were not local material and had to be transported a long distance from the East Devon Pebblebeds. At Bicton the only places that pebbles were used were around the glass houses and in the formal Italian gardens as pathways. Fish comments that they were ‘set firmly and regularly on end, each being about the size of Lapstone Kidney Potatoes … in all the pathways in the grounds having any considerable declivity, the sides of the walk, for about the width of a foot, are pitched with smaller pebbles’ (Fish 1858: 66). The Rolles could walk around their pleasure grounds on pebble pathways that provided both ‘in the heaviest rain, as well as during the bright sunshine, a pleasant firm pathway … in which you could leave no footmarks’ (Fish 1858: 66). These are today all tarmacked over.
Types of pebble structures
The Aylesbeare Village Hall entrance lobby has a pebble floor, with the design picked out in black pebbles to represent a door mat, with a diamond pattern in-filling the central section (Figure 13.2c). These were collected from Budleigh Salterton beach, because when the hall was built in 1923 pebbles were regarded as the most suitable decorative building material. This diamond pattern is repeated on paths in Newton Poppleford and Otterton.
At Budleigh Salterton the pebble wall running down Saltings Hill is an iconic example of uniform rows of pebbles forming a wall (Figure 13.2d). An almost unique feature of the town is the roadside pebble guttering formed from neat rows of pebbles 5 cm (2 inches) to 10 cm in size lining the drainage gutters. Fine examples can also be found on the sea front, running for almost 100 m, and along Cliff Terrace, Ryll Lane and Landsdown Road (Figure 13.3a).
The majority of walls are constructed from rows of pebbles with a concrete capping. Barns built of pebbles with brick quoins are a featureof some villages, with the pebbles being collected from pits and the surrounding fields and not brought from the beach (Figure 13.3b).
At East Budleigh there is a recent example of a new pebble wall that has been capped with tiles, showing that some people today hold pebbles in high regard as decorative building material (Figure 13.3c). Along the High Street there are pebble paths, with the pathways into the house defined with the pebbles running in the opposite direction.
At Fluxton there is what has to be one of the most amazing pebble structures, built 40 years ago with pebbles that were collected from the river Otter and sorted in the local farmyard. This decorative wall capped with tiles has arches and windows and dominates the garden, and is unique. It was built by a local stonemason, Gordon Ash (Figure 13.3d).
One of the largest pebbled areas can be found at Lympstone, where the whole of Quay Lane has a pebble path running between the cottages down to the estuary (Figure 13.4a). At Newton Poppleford 110 structures have been recorded, the majority being walls, running along the length of the High Street. Fine examples of decorative paths can be found in the village along Station Road (Figure 13.4b). Several walls have been painted black, as at the Southern Cross tea rooms, and the only otherexample of this is at Woodbury. The only church in the 17 villages to have pebbles used in the construction of the walls is St Gregory’s, where they feature in the side chapel wall (Figure 13.4c). Pebble farmyards were once a common feature in the area but most are now concreted over. Examples can be still found at Southerton, Newton Poppleford and Dotton (Figure 13.4d).
Topsham has examples of pebbles from the area and black angular pebbles that must have come from elsewhere or are from the river Exe, but nobody so far has been able to identify their source. Their use as edgings and paths can be found throughout Topsham, but some Bunter pebble structures have been identified making decorative surface features in front gardens (Figure 13.5a, b).
Woodbury Parish Council has insisted that all new building in the village should have pebble walls, which is a welcome development, and this can be seen at Gilbrook estate (Figure 13.5c). Along Greenway there is a perfect pebble wall topped with limestone blocks (Figure 13.5b) and a path of fan-shaped design (Figure 13.5d). The path would have been built with the pebbles packed tightly together so that the stones supported each other; they were embedded into the earth with only the tips of the small pebbles showing. This was built by a local builder, Charles Summerfield, in the 1900s (Brighouse 1981: 239). The church wall is of a similar design to Colaton Raleigh church, with a decorative capping of tiles and bricks and brick quoins.
Pebble colour and size
Having briefly reviewed the different types of structures that exist it just remains to highlight the differences in size and colours of the pebbles that can be seen across the area. The pebbles used in some of the walls in Woodbury are of a larger size than elsewhere. Some are up to 45 cm (18 inches) long, although the average is 20 cm (8 inches). They are not always a uniform size in many structures, and a large number of black pebbles are included in the walls. At Budleigh Salterton the pebbles found in the walls are on average 10 cm (4 inches) long and of a uniform size. At Colaton Raleigh and Newton Poppleford the most striking feature about the pebbles is their variety of colours. They range from red to yellow, grey to brown, olive to black, whilst at other villages the pebbles chosen to build structures are less colourful. This may well indicate the differential selection of very bright and particularly colourful pebbles in these two villages.
Two examples of the use of alien pebbles can be found in the area. One is at the Halfway House pub almost in the middle of the Pebblebed heathlands, where flint pebbles have been used for a retaining edging, the nearest probable source being Sidmouth. The other is hard landscaping in a garden using Charmouth beach pebbles because the owner considered the pebbles were of a better colour, that is, more uniform, and a smaller size than the local pebbles.
During recent sea defence work along the esplanade at Sidmouth the flint and greensand pebbles on the beach were buried by 150,000 tons of new pebbles transported from Black Hill quarry on the Pebblebed heathlands, making this stretch of the beach pebbles unusually brightly coloured and very similar to that at Budleigh Salterton, except that the pebbles are less smooth and well rounded. Pebbles from the same source were used to make ornamental features under the M5 motorway bridges outside Exeter during the 1970s.
The vernacular pebble architecture of the area manifests both a care and concern for pebbles in what might be regarded as simply ‘functional’ structures such as walls, paths, gutters, farmyards and buildings mostly of eighteenth-, nineteenth- and twentieth-century date. The earliest of these is the medieval church of St Gregory in Newton Poppleford. But all these structures are function made beautiful. The pebbles have been carefully selected, their arrangements patterned in terms of colour and form, shape and size, sometimes with quite an extraordinary attention to detail. The care taken and the attention to detail shown remind us once again of the bodily engagement involved and the fascination with what it is possible to do with these particular kinds of stones.