2773 General Directions: Cutting/Marking The Pattern
2773 General Directions: Cutting/Marking The Pattern
2773 General Directions: Cutting/Marking The Pattern
2773
1/4
15 pieces given
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General Directions
The Pattern Cutting/Marking
BEFORE CUTTING: PRESS pattern pieces with a warm dry iron. PRE-SHRINK fabric by pre-washing washables or steam-pressing nonwashables. CIRCLE your cutting layout. To Quick Mark: PIN pattern to fabric as shown in Cutting Layouts. FOR DOUBLE THICKNESS: Fold fabric with RIGHT sides together. FOR SINGLE THICKNESS: Place fabric RIGHT side up. FOR PILE, SHADED OR ONE WAY DESIGN FABRICS: Use with nap layouts Snip edge of fabric to mark notches, ends of fold lines and center lines. Pin mark dots. AFTER CUTTING: Transfer markings to WRONG side of fabric before removing pattern. Use pin and chalk method or dressmakers tracing paper and wheel.
1 4 7
A B
2 13 8
5 9
SYMBOLS GRAIN LINE Place on straight grain of fabric parallel to selvage PLACE SOLID LINE on fold of fabric.
3 14 15
ADJUST IF NEEDED Make adjustments before placing pattern on fabric. TO LENGTHEN: Cut pattern between lengthen or shorten lines. Spread pattern evenly, the amount needed and tape to paper. TO SHORTEN: At lengthen or shorten lines, make an even pleat taking up amount needed. Tape in place. When lengthen or shorten lines are not given, make adjustments at lower edge of pattern.
12 10 11
LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN LINES SEAM ALLOWANCE: 5/8" (1.5cm) unless otherwise stated is included but not printed on MULTI-SIZE PATTERNS. Mark your size with colored felt tip pen. See chart on tissue for how to use MULTISIZE PATTERNS.
C D
C D
1-BODICE FRONT AND SLEEVE -A 2-BODICE BACK AND SLEEVE -A 3-NECK FACING -A 4-SLEEVE BAND -A 5-FRONT -A 6-BACK -A 7-FRONT AND BACK -B 8-SLEEVE -B 9-BAND -B 10-SKIRT FRONT AND BACK -C 11-SKIRT SIDE FRONT AND SIDE BACK -C 12-UPPER FLOUNCE -C 13-LOWER FLOUNCE -C 14-PANTS FRONT -D 15-PANTS BACK -D
Sewing
SEW garment following Sewing Directions. PIN or machine-baste seams matching notches. STITCH 5/8" (1.5 cm) seams unless otherwise stated. PRESS seams open unless otherwise indicated clipping when necessary so seams will lie at. TRIM seams to reduce bulk, as shown below.
b.
123456
If layout shows a piece extending past fold, cut out all pieces except piece that extends. Open out fabric to single thickness. Cut extending piece on RIGHT side of fabric in position shown.
selvages indicating direction of nap or design. Fold fabric crosswise with RIGHT sides together, and cut along fold (a). Turn one fabric layer around so arrows on both layers go in the same direction. Place RIGHT sides together (b).
Trim corners
SELVAGES
Cutting Layouts
Espaol
See SPECIAL CUTTING NOTES
B JACKET
USE PIECES 7 8 9 SELVAGES
A,B EN MALLAS ESTIRABLES SOLAMENTE C FALDA- DETERMINE EL LARGO FINAL ANTES DE CORTAR
POSITION OF PATTERN PIECES MAY VARY SLIGHTLY ACCORDING TO YOUR PATTERN SIZE
A,B ARE SIZED FOR STRETCH KNITS ONLY C SKIRT- DETERMINE FINISHED LENGTH BEFORE CUTTING
A TOP
USE PIECES 1 2 3 4 5 6 SELVAGE
FOLD
C SKIRT
USE PIECES 10 11 12 13 11 11 1 SEL. 10 10 FOLD SELVAGES SELVAGE
D PANTS
USE PIECES 14 15 SELVAGES
789
DOUBLE THICKNESS
14
10 11 12 13
ALL SIZES
15 SELVAGES
14 15
DOUBLE THICKNESS
4A 44" 45" (115CM) CON PELUSA / TODAS LAS TALLAS 4B 58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA /TODAS LAS TALLAS
INTERFACING
USE PIECE 4 SELVAGE 4 FOLD SEL.
12
SELVAGES 13 14
15 FOLD
Copyright 2008Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
a.
SELVAGE
OVERLOCK SERGER
The Serger can be used alone or as a supplement to your conventional sewing machine as a Fast, Efficient, Functional way to sew these garments. CHECK FIT: Because, Overlock sewing stitches, trims and finishes all in one operation, it is VERY important to Check Fit before stitching seams. Using matching color thread, hilvane seams and try garment on. If no adjustments are needed, overlock seams along basting.
4 4. Turn facing to INSIDE; press. Baste close to inner pressed edge. On OUTSIDE, stitch as basted. Remove basting.
Decrease pressure on presser foot for heavy sweater knits; increase pressure for lingerie knits.
Seams: The three thread overlock is ideal for major seams such as...shoulder, side, underarm and sleeve seams.
6 SEAMS Stretch knits need seams that are supple enough to give with the fabric. You can sew them with straight stitches, zigzag stitches or one of the stretch stitches built into many conventional machines, or on your serger.
For stress areas such as crotch seams and armholes, the four thread overlock/safety stitch is best...OR, use a three thread overlock, and stitch along seam with a conventional machine to reinforce. Edge Finishes: The two or three thread overlock stitch is a perfect finish for edges of facings and hems...and a fast, easy Clean Finish for seam allowances in unlined garments where seams are pressed open. Rolled Hem: A great, Narrow Hem alternative for finishing circular skirts, ruffles, shawls and lingerie. See your sewing machine manual for instructions.
6. To make pleats in lower edge of sleeve, on OUTSIDE, fold along solid lines. Bring folds to broken lines; pin. Baste across raw edge.
7. Apply fusible interfacing to WRONG side of sleeve band, following manufacturers directions. With RIGHT sides together, stitch notched ends of sleeve band.
TOP A
1 9 1. To gather lower edge of bodice front between notches, stitch along seam line and 1/4" (6mm) INSIDE seam line, using a long machine-stitch.
8. Fold sleeve band in half, with WRONG sides together and raw edges even; press. On OUTSIDE, pin band to lower edge of sleeve, matching underarm seams, placing small dot at shoulder seam and having raw edges even. Stitch/Serge. For conventional machine- stitch again 1/4" (6mm) from rst stitching within the seam allowance. Trim close to second stitching.
10 2 2. Stitch/Serge center back seam of bodice back sections. Stitch/Serge front to back at shoulder seams. Stitch/Serge front to back at entire underarm seam. For conventional machine- to reinforce curve at underarm, stitch again over rst stitching. Clip curves.
10. Stitch/Serge front to back at side seams. With RIGHT sides together, pin front and back to lower edge of bodice, matching centers and side seams. Pull up gathering stitches to t. Baste. Stitch/Serge. Press seam down.
3 3. Press under 1/4" (6mm) on unnotched edge of neck facing. With RIGHT sides together, pin facing to neck edge of bodice, matching centers back and outer small dots, placing remaining small dots at shoulder seams. Stitch in 3/8" (1cm) seam, stretching facing to t. Trim seam.
11
11. Press under hem allowance on lower edge of top. To form narrow hem, tuck under raw edge to meet crease. Press. Stitch hem in place.
Copyright 2008Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
English/Spanish
2773
1
3/4
JACKET B
1
SKIRT C
NOTE: Determine nished length before sewing.
1. To make darts in jacket, with RIGHT sides together, fold the fabric through the center of the dart, bringing broken lines and small dots together. On INSIDE, place pins at RIGHT angles to the broken lines. Stitch the dart from wide end to point. TIP- To prevent a bubble at the point, make the last few stitches right on the fold and leave the thread ends long enough to tie a knot. DO NOT back-stitch at the point. Press the dart at along the stitching to blend the stitches, then press darts toward center back.
1. Stitch/Serge skirt side front sections to skirt front. Stitch/Serge skirt side back sections to skirt back. Stitch/Serge skirt front to skirt back at side seams.
2 2 2. To stitch front seam, fold front and back in half, lengthwise, with RIGHT sides together, matching single notches and small dots, having side edges even. Stitch side edge from lower edge to lower small dot; back-stitch at small dot to reinforce seam. 2. To keep elastic from getting stuck in the seam allowances as its inserted, use fusible web or machine-basting to anchor them to garment within the casing area. Be sure to remove basting after casing is nished.
3. Stitch/Serge underarm seam of sleeve. Press up sleeve hem. Stitch OR zig-zag 1/4" (6mm) from raw edge.
4. Turn sleeve RIGHT side out. Hold garment WRONG side out with armhole toward you. With RIGHT sides together, pin sleeve to armhole edge, matching small dots and seams. Stitch/Serge. For conventional machine- stitch again 1/8" (3mm) from rst stitching. Trim seam below notches close to stitching. Press seam toward garment.
3. Press 1" (2.5cm) on upper edge to INSIDE, forming casing. Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge. Stitch close to lower edge of casing, leaving an opening to insert elastic. 4 4. Cut a piece of elastic to t waist, plus 1" (2.5cm). Insert elastic through casing. Overlap ends and hold with a safety pin. Try on garment and adjust to t. 5
5. Stitch center back seam s of band sections. Fold band in half, lengthwise, with WRONG sides together; press. Machine-baste raw edges together.
5. Stitch ends of elastic together securely. Stitch opening closed. Distribute fullness evenly. Remove basting. TIP-To secure elastic so it wont twist in wearing, stitch through all thicknesses of casing in the groove of each seam.
6 6. On OUTSIDE, pin band to outer edge of jacket, matching centers back, having raw edges even. Stitch/Serge. For conventional machine- stitch again 1/4 (6mm) from rst stitching within the seam allowance. Trim close to second stitching. Press band out, pressing seam toward garment. When wearing jacket, turn down band at neck and front, forming a shawl collar, as shown on front of envelope. 6 6. With RIGHT sides together, pin upper ounce sections together at side seams, forming a circle. Stitch/Serge seam. To make narrow hem, press under 1/4" (6mm) on lower edge. Stitch close to pressed edge. Trim close to stitching. Then stitch under another 1/8" (3mm).
Copyright 2008Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
English/Spanish
2773
7
4/4
Espaol BLUSA A
1. Para fruncir el borde inferior del frente, entre las muescas, cosa con 7. Prepare lower ounce in same manner as upper ounce. Pin WRONG side of upper ounce to RIGHT side of lower ounce, matching centers and side seams, having raw edges even. Machine-stitch along seam line on notched edge.
puntadas largas cerca de la lnea de costura y a 1/4 (6mm) en INTERIOR de la lnea de costura 2. Cosa/Sobrehile la costura del centro trasero del corpio. Cosa/Sobrehile el frente en la espalda por las costuras de los hombros. Cosa/Sobrehile el frente en la espalda por las costursa del debajo del brazo. Para la mquina corriente- Para reforzar la curva del debajo del brazo, vuelva a coser sobre el primer pespunte. Haga cortes en las curvas. 3. Planche un doblez de 1/4" (6mm) en el borde sin muescas de la vista del escote. DERECHO CON DERECHO, prenda con alleres la vista en el borde del escote del corpio, casando los centros y los puntos pequeos exteriores y colocando los puntos pequeos en las costuras de los hombros. Cosa con una costura de 3/8" (1cm) estirando la vista para ajustar. Recorte la costura. 4. Vuelva la vista hacia el INTERIOR; planche. Hilvane cerca del borde interior planchado. En el EXTERIOR, cosa siguiendo el hilvn. Quite el hilvn. 5. Cosa/Sobrehile la costura del centro delantero. 6. Para hacer los pliegues en el borde inferior de la manga, en el EXTERIOR, doble a lo largo de las lneas continuas. Coloque los dobleces en las lneas interrumpidas; prenda con alleres. Hilvane a travs del borde no terminado. 7. Coloque la entretela adhesiva en el REVS de la banda de la manga siguiendo las instrucciones del fabricante. DERECHO CON DERECHO, cosa juntos los extremos con muescas de la banda de la manga. 8. Doble la banda de la manga por la mitad, REVS CON REVS casando los bordes no terminados; planche. En el EXTERIOR, prenda con alleres la banda en el borde inferior de la manga, casando la costuras del debajo de los brazos, colocando el punto pequeo en la costura del hombro y alineando los bordes no terminados. Cosa/Sobrehile. Para la mquina corriente - Vuelva a coser a 1/4" (6mm) del primer pespunte, en el margen de la costura. Recorte a ras del segundo pespunte. 9. Planche la costura hacia la manga volviendo la banda hacia el exterior. 10. Cosa/Sobrehile el frente en la espalda por las costuras de los lados. DERECHO CON DERECHO, prenda con alleres el frente en la espalda por el borde inferior del corpio, casando los centros y las costuras de los lados. Tire de los hilos de frunce para ajustar. Hilvane. Cosa/Sobrehile. Planche la costura hacia abajo. 11. Planche el dobladillo hacia dentro en el borde inferior de la blusa. Para formar el dobladillo angosto, vuelva el borde no terminado hacia dentro colocndolo en el doblez. Planche. Cosa el dobladillo.
FALDA C
NOTA: Determine el largo nal antes de coser. 1. Cosa/Sobrehile las partes laterales del frente en el frente de la falda.
Cosa/Sobrehile las partes laterales traseras en la parte trasera de la falda. Cosa/Sobrehile el frente en la parte trasera de la falda por las costuras de los lados. Para evitar que el elstico quede atrapado bajo los margnes de la costura al insertarlo en la jareta, pguelos en la prenda con materia adhesiva o hilvnelos en la seccin de la jareta. No olvide de quitar el hilvn una vez la prenda est terminada. Planche 1" (2.5cm) hacia el INTERIOR, en el borde superior, para formar la jareta. Planche une doblez de 1/4" (6mm) en el borde no terminado. Cosa cerca del borde inferior de la jareta, dejando una abertura para insertar el elstico. Corte un pedazo de elstico a la medida de la cintura ms 1" (2.5cm). Inserte el elstico en la jareta. Cruce los extremos con un aller. Prubese la prenda y ajstela. Cosa juntos los extremos del elstico con un imperdible. Cierre la abertura cosindola. Distribuya la amplitud uniformemente. Quite el hilvn. CONSEJO - Para fijar el elstico de tal manera que no se enrolle con el uso, cosa a travs de todos los espesores de la jareta en el surco de las costuras. DERECHO CON DERECHO, prenda juntas con alleres las secciones del volante en las costuras de los lados, para formar un circulo. Cosa/ Sobrehile la costura. Para hacer el dobladillo angosto, planche un doblez de 1/4" (6mm) en el borde inferior. Cosa cerca del borde planchado. Recorte ras del pespunte. Luego cosa un otro doblez de 1/8" (3mm).
8. Clip ounce to stitching if necessary, being careful not to clip through stitching. With RIGHT sides together, pin ounce to lower edge of skirt, matching centers and side seams. Stitch/Serge seam. Press seam up, pressing ounce down.
2.
PANTS D
1
3.
4.
5.
1. Pin front to back at inner leg seams, matching notches and small dots. Stitch/Serge seam, stretching back to t.
INNER LEG SEAM
6.
2 2. With RIGHT sides together, pin center seam, matching inner leg seams and notches. Stitch/Serge. For conventional machine- to reinforce seam, stitch again over rst stitching. Trim seam in curved area to 1/4" (6mm). Press remaining seam open.
CHAQUETA B
1. Para hacer las pinzas en la chaqueta, DERECHO CON DERECHO,
doble la tela por el centro de la pinza casando las lneas interrumpidas y los puntos pequeos. Por el INTERIOR, coloque los alleres en ngulo RECTO con las lneas interrumpidas. Cosa la pinza desde el extremo ancho hasta la punta. CONSEJO- Para evitar que se forme una arruga en la punta, haga las ltimas puntadas en el doblez y deje sobrepasar hilos bastante largos para anudar. NO RETROCEDA el PESPUNTE en la punta. Planche la pinza plana a lo largo del pespunte para esconder las puntadas volvindola hacia el centro trasero.
CENTER BACK
CENTER FRONT
PANTALN D
1. Prenda con alleres el frente en la parte trasera por las costuras
interiores de las piernas casando las muescas y los puntos pequeos. Cosa/Sobrehile la costura estirando la parte trasera para ajustar.
SIDE SEAM
3. Stitch/Serge front to back at side seams. Continue same as for View C, see steps 2 through 5.
2. Para coser la costura del frente, doble el frente y la espalda por la mitad
y por su largo, DERECHO CON DERECHO, casando las muescas sencillas, los puntos pequeos y los lados. Cosa el lado desde el borde inferior hasta el punto pequeo inferior; retroceda el pespunte en el punto pequeo para reforzar la costura. 3. Cosa/Sobrehile la costura del debajo del brazo de la magna. Planche el dobladillo de la manga. Cosa con puntadas rectas O de zig-zag a 1/4" (6mm) del borde no terminado. 4. Vuelva la manga al DERECHO. Mantenga la prenda al REVS, con la sisa hacia usted. DERECHO CON DERECHO, prenda con alleres la manga en la sisa casando los puntos pequeos y las costuras. Cosa/Sobrehile. Para la mquina corriente - Vuelva a coser a 1/8 (3mm) del primer pespunte. Debajo de las muescas, recorte la costura a ras del pespunte. Planche la costura hacia la prenda. 5. Cosa la costura del centro trasero de la banda. Doble la banda por la mitad y por su largo, REVS CON REVS; planche. Hilvane juntos los bordes no terminados.
4. Mark length. Press up hem along marking. Mark depth of hem; trim evenly. To EDGE FINISH the raw edge... stitch under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge, zig-zag, OR overlock/serge. Slip-stitch hem in place. If you prefer to crease pants, fold leg edges together, matching side and inner leg seam; press.
Copyright 2008Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.