$

# !"

!"#$
+#, #-

'

'

() * %

&

amahdavi.ir@gmail.com
4 5 6 7 #8

1"

2 3

% ! # . ,/ "0 *

taleb@shirazu.ac.ir
#+9
$ (
&
) ( *+ ,
! "!# $
%!
&'
!
8
. ,9 4 7 6 5 2 "
$ ! $ #$
/ 0 .1 2
3%$-1 .+ &4
- .!
. 8$< = 1>
) ( : 4.!#$ ?
@A >@ B
) 6 : ! #$
%! ;
G
!.1 2 = & 7 6 E$ B -; "
F6 )
>D( : C B
!&?
& ? !.!
4 .+
. >? >' J B
;8
>D( : C B
= 1> ! H " I ' )
?$ 4 = & Q 5 < !7 6
. 6 B N O> P ( -+ .! L -; M+ E4 2: K / % 1
!
!
!( $ )
O #$
%!
&
!R
8
= & & + >@ B
7 6 ., ) & 4U&
., )8 U& ?
. &S = T-) 7 $
. &S & &
>D( : C B

O #$

"!# $

% !;

-:

< =
! ,
B
!# $ ? 4= & ?48 @ !
%!
;
8
6&
Y BZ 8 -; &X> ?
! . 8$< , V$ = & . & .!.W$> !7 9 6 C B
! !
1 / 1 2 ?$ + > 7 ! C B
= 1> F["
F6 )
J&
>b I
O !Synolakis Titov a^__`] 8
7
. ' &\ / $Z "!# $
%!
#$
%!
(Nonlinear Shallow Water equations-NLSW) L -; M+ E4 2: K / % 1
d $ $6 B N O> $
; ) &
!
6$"W $c .! 4 7 +
8
"!
#$
% ! VTCS-2 .! F$ $ = SSB = &
; 8 7 ! ! (Godunov scheme)
Grilli c
SSB 7[1] $!R
!$: .!
$
!(Solitary waves) O
P ( -+ .! 2: K 3* +
? & W a^___] 8
Sen Maiti a^__e] 8
? -)
[2]
W ! O #$
%!
$6 $6 ) 6f& "B> !?4
$?%!
&'
; "B> !H " I 8
.-+ / % 1 Y& > ! ! .1 2 = & 7[3]
? >' J B
.+ )
8
A g h
6 .,
b O> .! >D( : C B
= 1> #$
Z U&
O #$ ) & 4 U& ! )?4
Z U& E$: L !2>
. ' 6 / $Z

4 Y2 j -

!R

# !"

=&?

. &S = T-) 7 $
? # $ ( *+
7 6 ., ( $ ) # $
% ! k+ .cB

$i>
E4

! "#$
L -; M+ E4 2: K / % 1
"!# $
%!
8
3%$-1
+ ? !
+
S! F W S!lA
.+ / % 1
/ % 1 =& 7
!R 6
0 B>#[ K &\ M+ >
M+ ( >
) ' l& $>
! (depth-averaged)L -;
? & W M,A 1!.+
+ .! $ (NLSW) / % 1 7 6 c
7 ! mn
! E4L -;.!#$ 8$< @ .+ "!# $
c
( & / % 1 7[4] $
.:
L -; M+ E4 # $ ? $ 1! # $ (
7[1] $
.

!
=& 7

!= SSB ?$ + >
$- O (NLSW)
4? & W
8
!
6J $ / $Z .! ;
' Z B2 R + 0
?4 S' 1!
Q$+
!
*+ (
W$ = Q
$ & / $Z .!(NLSW) 1!

(u d )
+
=0
t
x

aH D^]

u
u

+u
+g
=0
t
x
x

aED^]

Y2 M,A &9!W= = ( x, t ) ? = t #$
= x R 6 E = g o$' J !
L -;
6 J $ S' ; = u = u ( x, t ) E4a. ]
I >.! @
! #$
7aa^]
] ( x, t ) h E4. L -; V$-9 !
! != d ( x, t ) + L -;= T-) 7

#$ ."A.

1A$

> >.! X 2 X 0 . O #$ ( &

) ?
a

G S? !

]7

"

%!
J: .

.!p $!
1A$

H & 1> ^D

# !"

@ "8

" 4 A#- ?>

.!F$ $
< a ED^ .2! ] +
S!. 1
(u u x) 2: K / @; = -I>
= & = T-) 7 6
O (Downwind/Upwind scheme- D/U) ? & W W d *: q W
$ . 1
+
& @ P =&7
+ .![ aH D^ .2! ] F W S!. 1 $ 5 <
Flather J $>.+
M &$
!!
F 6 ) 7 6 a " J :] C B
!
( : 6=
>/ @ B 7 $
= 1> 68
. 8$< & 6 ' 1 a^_e`]8
Heaps
7a[5] S .!] 6 r I
& 1 ( -+ .! 6 ( &? $!( : & >7 !& .
j is wet point, if 0.5(dj1 + dj)

0;

am]

j is dry point, if 0.5(dj1 + dj) 0;

> lA 6 ) ! & / @; .!7 !& s b : ( : ) 6 .!L -; O & S !

j wet + 1 > 6 = & :4

. '6 c

!
7

1! 6 L -; O
? am]
< 55B

F$ $

u nj +1 u nj
t

+ up

FW
7$

u nj u nj1
x

up = 0.5 u + u
n
j

S! / % 1
. 6
. $ & / $Z .! +
+ un

),

n
j

u nj+1 u nj
x

= g

un = 0.5 u u
n
j

n
j

! & 6
S!.2! G

nj nj1

at]

?4 .+
aH Dt]

)
7$

nj+1 nj
t

1
flux j +1 flux j
x

@A - A .+ $2 -)
= & !7 6
O (D/U)

6 & / $Z .!F W

S!.2!
au]
H & 1> !

flux k = up k kn1 + unk kn + u kn +1

up k = 0.5 u kn +1 + u kn +1 ,

.! n + 1 n )g &$% !
.2!
O ! !7
? 4
! W au] .2!

(hk + hk 1 )
2

un k = 0.5 u kn+1 u kn +1

( k = j , j + 1)

aH Du]
?4 .+
aEDu]

!
6 > > .!= t x o$' J !
a?
& W F 6 ] 8$ 9 a ?
$ + F 6 ] F$"1
) X .! > >
& S =& g h
6 = 1> & W
F6
; & S at]

= 1>

! 2: !&? ! ."

# !"

)? &
7
7[5] 6

+ .! & W
O
>@ B

F6
4 Y2 M,A &9!W
6 = & :4 ? & W L -; ;
a`]

, nj +1 = 2 nj+11 nj+21

u nj +1 = 2 u nj+11 u nj+12

D"E
( Central [+

N O>

! +
7

n +1
j

n
j

t
n +1
j nj
t

+ u nj

n
j +1

n
j 1

+g

n
j +1

="

S! F W S!/ % 1 ! P = &
. 6 & / $Z .!finite difference)

n
j 1

=0
2x
2x
u nj++11 u nj+11
(h j +1 + nj+1 ) (h j 1 + nj1 )
+ (h j + nj )
+ u nj +1
=0
2x
2x

7 $

H & 1> @A

o$'.2!
G

7
& 6 r I B g & !aC B
] "
l2S
$@; 8 M9 7 &\ / $Z F W S!
7MAl2S + L -; ? & W ; E w "Z !
S' ."Z '= R
."
) M) ?
V .!
7[7] [6]
.@ B
R=

a v]
)

7!4 "

->
1 + H ## I

J: $
) at]
.+ $2 -)
Z G
!
F6 )
" J : !&?
! !x ;
a at]
] MA
t /
l2S = & x ;
$@; 1-9>M9 6
!A & .2!
>@ B 6 = & :4 > " J :

2V
dM

ae]
? & W + L -; = d M ?4 .+
2: at]
B Ap S= ! 4

Y2 .+
x ' o$' .2! ? 4
! 7
M 6
6 [! x ."Z ' R 4
! S .T Q 7 ! M S
=&

'1 R & W

J$

C B
.! n 1

; 7
n

u Bn =

S ? $ 1! R x

.@ B !Aae] .2! d M
6 R S .T Q 7at]

M )$: n

F6

"

[' >@ B .

x
u + gd

&@ #$ t ?

J : ; .@ B

! $

.+

? !a_] .2! 7

R n1

Rn !

!
!!
>>
ay]

$+

1 8 -; !/ @ B
7$
= > ( t )

(0 < Cn 1)

.! 6 ( &

W .! d M +1 ?
A ! 1-9>M9
S
B A p S ."Z ' X>
j !

R n R n 1
t
!(Courant-Friedrichs-Lewy (CFL)) $ DR & 'D

t Cn

'

F 4 A#- ?C

&
F6

S
a_]

; = C n o$'.2!
7 + <
F 6 ( &8$< R !
$+

"

J : S' ."Z 'R ]m 8

# !"

) 6 \6F tD
>@ B 6 = & :4 >
4Y2

7^ 8

> 6 = & :4= 1> mD

7 j wet = j wet + 1

K #*

4 jwet > h jwet +1 .T Q

"

#$ = &
8 7 ! M
A'
."A ( &
>.+
W$ O #$ ( &
Y2 j - .
& S / $Z .! t = 0 .cB #$ j - 8 -; !(NLSW)/ % 1
." $!3%$-1
O #$ ( &j O # $ 8 .@>
$i>G
!7 &\ / $Z
;8
( (x,0) ) 4
7[4] 6 H & 1> & .2! ! !&
x $B @k
W .+
( x, t ) = H sech 2

#$ ."A .
@& S> lA

3H
(x X 0 Ct )
4h03

1A$ = X 0 E4 .
.+ ? & W ;
7 &4

a^n]
!0 L -; = h0

& S 7aa^]
! & .2!

O #$ .

]
! #$
#$ / z L -;

V O> = H ?4

.+

C = g ( H + h0 )

6J $

u ( x,0) = ( x,0) g h0

O #$ ."A.

X1 X 0 =

1A$ ?
4h03
arccosh
3H

."Z 'a^]
7[1] $

L !2 7 6 H & 1> @A
) X
. '6 c
& / $Z .! ( X 1 )

2:
a^^]

->?4 .+
V .2S

1
0.05

a^m]

.! s b : !aa^]
6 a .
T $& !( $ ) #$ ( &
O .2S] >@ B 8
>b I {
6 =&
;
6
9& (0, t ) = a sin(2 t T ) $ l!> / $Z
7
& 6 x '= + t = 0 .cB 8
( $ )#$
8
7 &4
!/ % 1

L8
`nn tnn > >.! ) $& a h0
% !1 : 10
! "
!a^]
.!au]
.+ #$
% ! k+
= & !& R ) + #$
% !.

= 0.02 ! ( $ ) # $

M6 *

% ! >@ B ?$ 4 =
L !2 X 1 = 100 h0 ! ! ! ' ? $- g .+ . 0enn
.cB
4 Y2
)j - 7 6
A
! $
!? [ #$ $& R &[' !.+ ) ?
+ &$b >

)8

# !"

7[5]

U& a`]

. &S )
!H h0 = 0.03 !
! !lA E4 !0 L -;
!
7

S!2 amnn^] 8
O #$
X> ? !

+z U& !

!aa^n].2! ] O # $
$i> .+ .T 4 !m ^
&! O #$
$i> = & G
!7
& 6

H & 1> t * = t g h0 / $Z .! t * 1!? !?

Kowalik J $>

-> 7 !&

S' C 2Z ? !

+ U& E$:
!L !2>7
lA x = X c $I
1A$
#$ ."A
t = 0 .cB
Synolakis a^_yv] 8
7 ! E4
!0 L -;
! O #$
!R
)8
= & 7[8] $!1 : 19.85
! H h0 = 0.0185 ! O #$
% ! $: )R & 4
X 2 = X 1 + 19.85 h0 ! ! ! X 2 " J : .
1A$
X 1 = 100 h0
S a^]
F%7
& 6 . &S L SB = & ) & 4 U& !m ^ )8
Z U& av]
7 !
? &W .
; = T-) 7
& 6 = 1>a^m].2!
O !#$ ."A .
1A$ .+
+z .!
a^^] .2! G
!
O #$ / z L -;
6J $
;
2: @& S> lA
.+
*

%! A

#$
6 8 -; )8
a u ( x,0) = 0 ] = + ? & W J & t * = 0 .cB .T Q 7
$c
7 6
M) !H I
W .+ $
$>#$ . V O> H b ! ! ! ;O> !? & O
8 U& 8$@A !A L !2> 7[1]
P [6 [ Synolakis Titov J $>
= Q V$A
7 !
O #$
%!
!R
)8
A ) ?
& 4

!
7

O #$

#$ ."A7

!H " I

)?

h0 !0L -; ! !4

! h0 M,A $B

- J : !L A
7
7
& 6r I

#$

`D

!.+ H h0 = 0.03
(x X c ) h0 S' $B

A x = Xc
) @- !

t = 0 .cB
;U&

#$ .
7 1 : 10
? !.

% ! k+ .cB
4Y2
!. 0700 500 300

)j - uD
) $& !( $ )

h0 M,A ) $B ( X 2 x ) h0 S' ) $B
7
! a h0 = 0.02 # $ 1!
m8

77777 ^8

77777 ^8 7 t * H " I
7

)?
!

# !"

1 : 19.85

Synolakis (1986) )

! H h0 = 0.0185 !
& 4U& ) @-

m8

O #$

% ! vD

# !"

"#B <( # *

N E

&'
! W
;8
$i>U& ! !$: L !2> )8 .+
& 6 Z
! W - $> [! L -;
!?4

% !.

!? [

L -; M+ E4 2: K / % 1 G
! .1 2 = &
? = T-) 7 & 6 ., ( $ ) O # $
%!
& U& .1 2 = & 8 ) .!7
$: ! $W$ ) & 4
6J $
; x ' MK "; L -; M+ E4 2: K / % 1 D
7
!
"!# $
%!
&
( $ ) #$ $& R &[' ! . ' 6 / $Z
; )?$ 4
B
D
7$
. +
7 6 #$
% !. !R &[' @
? M+ D

NE "
[1] Titov, V.V., Synolakis, C.E. (1995). Modeling of breaking and non-breaking long
wave evolution and run-up using VTCS-2. J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng.
ASCE, 121, pp 308-461.
[2] Grilli, S.T., Svendsen, I.A., Subramanya, R. (1997). Breaking criterion and
characteristics for solitary waves on slope. J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng. ASCE,
123, pp 102-112.
[3] Maiti, S., Sen, D. (1999). Computation of solitary waves during propagation and runup on a slope. J. Ocean Eng., 26, pp 1063-1083.
[4] Sorensen R.M. (2006). Basic Coastal Engineering. Third Edition. Springer science,
New York. 324p.
[5] Kowalik, Z. 2001 . Basic relations between tsunami calculation and their physics
J. Science of Tsunami Hazards, 19(2), pp 99115.
[6] Marchuk, A.G., Anisimov, A.A. (2001) A method for numerical modeling of tsunami
run-up on the coast of arbitrary profile Proceedings of the ITS-2001, pp 933940.
[7] Marchuk, A.G. (2007). Personal communication
[8] Synolakis, C.E. (1986). The run-up of long waves. PhD Thesis, California Institute of
Technology, Pasadena, CA.