Cond Serv Data Gravely L Eng
Cond Serv Data Gravely L Eng
Cond Serv Data Gravely L Eng
Spark Plug
GRAVELY MODEL L TRACTOR ENGINE
Recommended: Auto-Lite TT-10
The purpose of this booklet is to furnish the Or Champion W - 89-D
mechanic with the necessary information he Electrode Gap .033
needs to properly fit and service the Engine and Carburetor
Crankcase assembly of the Gravely Model L
Tractor. Detailed assembly and dissassembly See separate instructions.
methods will not be discussed since the Magneto
illustrations should give sufficient guidance to
proper methods. See separate Magneto instructions.
LS--"Slow Speed" (4 Thread Worm) Before timing spark to engine, inspect face
LI--"Intermediate Speed" (6 Thread Worm) of Magneto and locate timing marks. If the
L--Standard "High Speed" (8 Thread Worm) timing marks are two lines, one on the Magneto
face and one on the Coupling, proceed by
On the name plate serial number, M prefix Method 1. If the timing marks are a line and a
means 100,000. For example, Tractor serial dot on the Magneto face, and a line on the
number "100105" would be shown as "M105”. Coupling, proceed by Method 2.
HIGH GEAR:
LOW GEAR:
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between the Fiber Block and the Coupling
Flange before tightening nut. Tighten nut
while holding timing marks together.
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4. Hold the Magneto Shaft Extension with Vise- Piston, Pin, Rims
Grip Pliers so it will not move. Rotate the
Magneto Impulse (inoperative) until timing Piston is equipped with three rings.
marks (line on Coupling and dot on Magneto)
line up. 1 Chrome Compression Ring:
5. Reassemble Magneto Coupling, use 1/64th (Ring Gap: .012 to .020)
(.015) Feeler, between Fiber Block and The 1 Steel Compression Ring:
Coupling Flange before tightening Nut, so you
will not cramp the impulse. Be sure timing (Ring Gap: .008 to .016)
marks are together while tightening nut. 1 Oil Scraper Ring:
6. Lock Magneto Coupling Nut. Replace Air Old Style Iron Ring, (Gap: .008 to .016) or
Cleaner and Bracket. New Style Three Piece Chrome Oil Ring:
7. NOTE: Timing line on Coupling and dot on Ring (Gap .015 to .055)
Magneto line up at Top Dead Center. We have recently put into production a new,
LUBRICATION chrome-plated steel, three piece oil ring, part
number LH-546. Both our laboratory tests and field
Capacity is 5 PINTS. Engine and Chassis are tests show this ring much superior to the old style
lubricated by the same oil. Use only Motor Oils, do cast iron ring. Therefore, even though it is more
NOT use transmission oils or greases. expensive, we are using it now in all production,
For Summer: and the rings are available on repair orders.
Mobiloil AF (SAE 30) The rings will be furnished in standard, .010,
For Winter; .020. and .030 oversizes.
Temperature range from 32° to 10° F. Use The standard size can be used up to . 009
Mobiloil Arctic (SAE 20-20W) 10° and below, oversize, the .020 up to .029 oversize, and the .030
Mobiloil Special (SAE,-10W.-30) up to .039 oversize.
Oil is checked by having tractor level. Remove
Try-Cock Wing Nut on Chassis. If oil runs out, you We recommend the use of the ring especially
have enough. When filling , be sure to fill only until when "smoking" occurs in the equipment, and yet
oil runs out. the compression rings are still in good shape. Quite
often, the simple expedient of changing the old cast
REPAIRS iron ring to the new style will stop the "smoking"
Crankpin completely.
Crankpin diameter is 1.497/1.498, and the Of course, it is better to refinish the cylinder
Connecting Rod big end Bushing must be reamed to bore, and use the proper size of oversize pistons and
1.500. The Crankpin diameter has been changed. rings. The LH-546 new three-piece oil ring should
We suggest you accurately "mike" the Crankpin. If have from . 015 to .055 end gap for the two flat seg-
less than 1.497, ream the Bushing to give .002/.003 ments. In contrast, the old style cast iron oil ring
clearance. should have .008 to .016 end gap. The LH-548 top
Connecting Rod has bronze Bushing, pressed chrome compression ring should have .012 to .020
into Rod. Crankpin into Flywheel is a . 001 to . 003 end gap. Measure the end gap with a feeler gauge,
interference fit. An interference fit means that the with the ring removed from the piston and held in
Crankpin is actually . 001 to . 003 larger than the the cylinder bore.
hole in the Flywheel. The Crankpin must be a very
tight fit to keep it from turning. Therefore the Installation of the new ring, though not difficult,
Crankpin is pressed into the Flywheel. (Note that must be carried out with care, following the
Flywheel must be pressed tightly to shoulder on instructions given below carefully and accurately.
Crankpin. )
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INSTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLING Piston skirt clearance is .003/.005, measured
THREE - PIECE OIL RING with a Feeler Gauge at right angles to the Piston
Pin.
1. Place stainless steel expander spacer in
groove with ends butted. To determine if cylinder needs reboring:
2. Install steel segment on top side of expander 1. Use any Piston Ring, inserting it in the
spacer with gap of segment approximately cylinder 1/2 Inch from the bottom of the bore,
90° beyond gap of stainless steel expander using the piston to square it with the sides.
spacer, making certain that the expander Measure the Gap with Feeler Gauge.
spacer is still in a butted position.
2. Use the same ring, 1/2 inch from the top of
3. Install second segment on bottom side of the the Cylinder, seated true with piston, measure
expander spacer with segment gap the gap.
approximately 90° from the expander spacer
gap in opposite direction from which the top 3. Subtract smaller reading from larger reading,
segment has been installed. then divide by 3.
4. Recheck assembly - rings should be free to 4. If result is more than .006, we recommend the
move in the groove, however, a slight drag cylinder be rebored to the next . 010 over size.
will be evident because of the side sealing Pistons and Rings are furnished in oversizes:
action of the ring assembly. BE SURE .005, .010, .015, .020, .025, .030. Diameter of
EXPANDER SPACER REMAINS IN Standard Cylinder is 3.2545/3.2535.
BUTTED POSITION. Crankshaft
5. When pistons are ready for installation in the Drive Pinion Shaft Bushing should be reamed to
cylinders, compress rings carefully, and slip 1.0005/0.9995. The Drive Pinion Shaft is factory
the cylinder down over piston and rings. toleranced to .9975/.9965, which gives an overall
Since the Cylinder is chamfered, a slight clearance of .002/.004. (Drive Pinion Shaft Bushing
twisting motion will allow this process to be is furnished in .005, .025 O.D. Oversize) .
carried out easily, without forcing.
(Drive Pinion Shaft Bushing is fitted into hot
If any difficulty is encountered, the rings should be
crankcase.)
checked for correct installation in the groove.
The Timing Pinion Shaft is fitted into the Ball
Bearing at manufactured tolerance.
Camshafts
Camshafts must be timed very accurately to
engine for best results. See timing diagram.
On Tractors manufactured before September
1955, the appearance of the Cam profiles in relation
to a straightedge will vary as shown In the same
Timing Diagram. On all models, when checking
Timing, carefully observe the Cam profile and
position. If not as shown in sketch C, replace
Camshafts .
Camshaft Bushings are reamed with a .750
reamer. Camshaft diameters are precision ground to
.7480/.7490. Clearance should be .001 to .003.
Piston Pin (Wrist Pin) is . 859 diameter. Small NOTE: Bushings should be line reamed, In
end of Connecting Rod holds Bronze Bushing place in bolted-together Crankcases. Crankcases
which should be reamed to .860/.861. must be replaced, when necessary, in Pairs.
Piston Pin (Wrist Pin) is a solid fit in the Piston.
It is a light push fit in a hot Piston.
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When repairing older tractors, use new Camshafts, which will give the appearance shown in (C). To check
if Valve Timing is correct, (Engine cold) set Valve Tappet at .0015 (Cigarette paper). Cylinder head off. Intake
valve should just start to open at the Top Dead Center of Exhaust stroke. After piston passes Top Dead Center
going down on the Intake stroke the exhaust valve should just close at 5/32" from Top Dead Center. After
checking, re-adjust tappets to proper clearance before running engine.
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Valve System tolerances must be held closely to insure good oil
supply at essential lubrication points. Oil Pump
Grind Valve Seat Angle 450 degrees. Seat must
Bushing should be reamed to 7/16"(.4373/.4388).
be square with Valve Guide bore. Seat width
The Oil Pump Master Gear Shaft is toleranced at
dimensions are 3/64” to 5/64”. Finish with Valve
.4363/.4368, which means clearances must be held
Grinding Compound to insure good seat and
to . 0005 to .0025.
compression. Rough: Government Grit grade 120
(E); Finish: grade 280 (A). Oil Pump Gears must be a snug fit in the Oil
Pump Cap.
If Valve Seat exceeds 5/64" on one side, use a
60° Valve Seat Reamer, to remove excess valve seat To Accomplish:
width. 1. Press Idler Gear Pin into place by starting it
in the Crankcase, placing the Idler Gear over it,
and pressing it until it is flush with the top
surface of the Idler Gear.
2. Place Dowel Pin in Crankcase. Assemble
Oil Pump Gears and Oil Seal in Cap. Check that
the Gears are flush with surface of Oil Pump Cap
with the Gasket in place.
3. Assemble to Crankcase, using a 9/16”
socket and speed handle on the Oil Pump Idler
Gear Pinion Shaft Nut.
4. After cap is seated, wash out and check by
putting oil in large opening and turning speed
handle to check pumping action and wash out
pump.
Note that the Idler Gear Stud must be checked
carefully to see that it is the same height as the
gears. Also, be sure to check Oil Pump Gears to be
sure they are the same thickness and that they are
free of burrs. Never put new gears in an old Cap.
Timing of Valves is accomplished by Tolerances of Oil Pump Gears are: Diameter
Camshaft timing. See "Camshaft". (O.D.) .746 / .747 Thickness, .384/.385.
Valve Tappet clearance, engine COLD, is .012, TROUBLESHOOTING
exhaust, .012 intake, obtained by adjusting Valve Tractor Engine Fails to Start
Tappet. Probable causes are, in order of their
Valve Clearance in exhaust Valve Guide is frequency:
factory toleranced. Intake Valve clearance is 1. Out of Fuel
.002/.004. 2. Fuel shut off at sediment bowl
Valve Plunger is .7485/.7495. Valve Plunger 3. Stuck valve
Guide is reamed to .750/.751. Clearance should be 4. Fouled or out of adjustment Spark Plug.
.0005 to .0025. (Tight slip fit.) (To prevent oil 5. Magneto failure
leakage around valve plunger, maintain this 6. Timing failure
clearance.)
Tools needed for this service work: Feeler
Valve Sleeve Gasket should be permatexed or Gauge, Screwdriver, light Ball Peen Hammer, 1/2"
shellacked. 6 pt Socket and Wrench, 15/16" Spark Plug
Replace Valve Springs if you can squeeze Wrench, can of penetrating oil (may substitute 1/2
together with one hand. and 1/2 No. 10 Oil and Kerosene).
Oil Pump TO CORRECT:
Oil Pump is a precision gear pump. Fits and
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1. Check Gas Tank, fill if empty. engine over by HAND. The Engine will "stop
2. Check Shut Off Valve at Sediment Bowl, to dead" at a certain point. Reversing the
make sure it is open wide. direction of turn, the Engine will stop again at
3. Turn engine over slowly by HAND, to see If the same point In the firing cycle. The
engine has compression. procedure is exactly the same as for releasing a
Valve that is stuck open. WARNING: Never
If engine HAS COMPRESSION,
attempt to test for a stuck valve by turning
4. Remove Spark Plug, check for fouling,
the engine over in any manner except by
burning, wetness, Remove carbon, dry if
HAND. Turning an Engine over with a strap,
necessary, reset at . 033. If Spark Plug appears
or by forcing, when a Valve is stuck closed
to need replacement, replace with Autolite TT-
will result in fracture of the Crankcase,
10.
necessitating replacement.
5. If you DO NOT have COMPRESSION, you
11. If the Engine has compression, the Spark Plug
usually will have a valve stuck open. The
is in good order, etc., test the spark.
primary sympton is a sudden (usually
12. The Spark should jump at least 3/16" when
overnight) loss of compression. Lack of
tested by putting the end of the Magneto Cable
compression due to Ring Trouble is a gradual
connection this distance from a metal object.
loss, getting progressively worse, and
(Usually the Cylinder Head) .
characterized by oily smoke from the exhaust
for some period before actual complete com- 13. If the Spark is weak, it is usually caused by
pression loss. condensation within the Magneto. Remove the
Cap, dry out the Magneto. (You can observe
6. Remove cylinder head. (Observe Gasket.
the wetness when the Cap is removed.)
Replace if necessary).
14. Normally, If the Magneto is not firing
7. Check to see if there is any bit of carbon on
correctly, routinely replace Coil, Condenser,
the Valve seat which might be preventing the
and points.
Valve from completely closing. If so, remove
and grind Valve to a good seat if necessary. 15. If it is impractical, or undesirable, to replace
all of these parts, observe the Points first, to
8. If no carbon bits are present, flood the Valve
make sure they are breaking, and are not
and stem with penetrating oil. Let "soak" a few
burned or dirty.
minutes, flood again. Using a screwdriver in
the slot on top of the Valve, begln working the 16. If the Points are dirty or wet, clean by using a
Valve by attempting to rotate the valve. If this piece of hard paper. (A piece of paper from a
is unsuccessful, flood again with penetrating "slick" magazine works wall.) Spread the
oil, (IMPORTANT: Turn engine over until Points by hand, release on the paper, and pull
impulse clicks - to be sure you don't break the paper through.
Cams.) Then tap the Valve lightly with the 17. Adjust the Points. On Wico Magnetos, the
hammer. Again use the Screwdriver. The setting is .015: on Bendix-Scintilla, . 018.
Valve will usually break loose in a very short 18. To adjust, release the adjusting screw by
time. Continue to work until it is perfectly turning the locking screw slightly. Make the
free, and rises and falls with the turning over adjustment by turning the adjusting screw,
of the engine . then lock in place with the lock screw. See
Chronic cases of Valve sticking can be separate Magneto Instructions. If you replace,
eliminated by one of the Bronze Valve remember to lubricate the felt washer on the
Guides. Wico Magneto. BE SURE TIMING MARKS
9. Observe the seating and the action of the ARE LINED UP when you make this
Valves. If a Valve Grinding Job is indicated, adjustment!
recommend it to the customer at that time. If 19. If the Spark you get is very red, instead of blue
Valves need replacement, recommend It. or yellow-white, It is probably the condenser.
10. Occasionally a Valve is stuck closed. This is A bad condenser will usually allow the Engine
rare, however. The symptoms will show up to start, but the Engine will backfire and spit,
immediately when you attempt to turn the and quit. If there is no spark at all, it is usually
the coil.
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20. To replace the Coil, Condenser, or do any starting, but rarely causes a tractor not to start
other work on the Magneto, it is best to at all. Usually the tractor will run, even if
remove the Magneto from the Tractor. adjustment is off. See "Carburetor
Instructions".
21. To remove, turn the Engine over by hand until
the Timing Marks are lined up. DO NOT ALIGNING FLYWHEELS:
MOVE THE ENGINE UNTIL YOU HAVE
REPLACED THE MAGNETO. When you Method 1
are ready to replace the Magneto, line the
Timing Marks on the Magneto and replace it. Dealers who desire to check Fly Wheel Balance
The engine will be Timed the same as it was should acquire the following items:
when, you removed the magneto.
1 Anderson Balancing Way, Size 1-A.
22. Loosen the Bolts from the bottom mounting, Manufactured by Anderson Brothers Mfg., Co.,
and remove the magneto, pulling straight back Rockford, Illinois.
(away from engine) so as to not disturb the
Timing. 1 Piece Cold Rolled Steel, 3/4" Dia., about 3"
long weighing eight ounces.
23. If the Magneto is furnishing a strong spark,
and all other factors mentioned are correct, To Check Fly Wheel Balance:
then the difficulty is probably in the timing.
See "Timing Model L Engine"). 1. Remove piston from connecting rod.
Method 3
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