Berlin in Your Pocket #38 April/May 2009

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
BERLIN “In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-

written series of guidebooks.”
The New York Times
April - May 2009
Watery
wanderings
Tour the Spree by boat
Spring is in the
air
Concerts, exhibitions,
flowers
N°38 - €1.75
berlin.inyourpocket.com
CONTENTS 3
berlin.inyourpocket.com
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
www.plazahotel.de Berlin’s districts 5
Getting streetwise
www.restaurant-knese.de Arrival & Transport 6
Get your bearings on S, U and ICE
www.parken-am-kudamm.de Culture & Events 7
http://blog.plazahotel.de Roll up for theatre, show and cinema
Where to stay 15
From park bench to Park Grand
BERLIN PLAZA HOTEL Restaurants in Mitte 22

Knesebeckstraße 63/Kurfürstendamm · 10719 Berlin Fine dining, food with a view, and more
4EL s&AX

Tel.: 030/884 13-0 · Fax: 030/884 13-754 Nightlife in Mitte 30
From light drinking to debauchery
Food & Drinks around town

Ihre Privathotels in der City Berlins.
9OUR0RIVATEHOTELSINTHECITYOF"ERLIN Going out in Berlin’s happening ‘hoods
32
Take me to the Plaza® AM
What to see 48
Palaces, squares and museums
Cold war Berlin 56

Behind the Wall
Potsdam 57
Palaces and film history
Family fun 59
Where to take the kids
River tours 60
Sail away
Shopping 62
www.HotelAstoria.de Buy buy buy
www.HotelAstoria.de Directory 66
HTTPBLOGASTORIADE Maps & Index
Street register 68
Hotel Astoria Berlin Centre map 69-71
Fasanenstraße 2 · D-10623 Transport map 72-73
Hotel Astoria Berlin Berlin
Index 74
Tel. ++49(30) 3 12 40 67 · Fax ++49(30)
Fasanenstraße 2 · D-10623 3 12 50 27
Berlin
Tel. ++49(30) 3 12 40 67 · Fax ++49(30) 3 12 50 27 berlin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009
4 FOREWORD BERLIN DISTRICTS 5
A new spring, a new crisis. Berlin has had a rough

time as it is over the past 50-odd years, but even Greeting Berlin is four times the size of Paris, and even though the
city consolidated its 23 districts into 12 in 2001, you’re still Prenzlauer Berg (PB)
after the near-miraculous changes after 1989, it left with 23 self contained areas (Kieze) in which Berliners On a low hill northeast of Mitte, ‘Prenzl’ Berg’ is an old
Since th e fall o f th e often find everything they need. Public transportation is working-class district in the former East Berlin that came
never was a wealthy place, always teetering on Berlin Wall around 20 far-reaching and effective though, and you’ll grow to love it through the war relatively unscathed. The best places to
the brink of bankruptcy and being forced to spend years ago, Berlin has as you shuttle between the four areas with the most sights: soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzpl, Helmholzpl. and along
its hard-earned marks and euros very carefully. experienced breakneck Charlottenburg, Tiergarten, Mitte and Kreuzberg. Kastanienallee (all near U-Bahn Eberswalderstr.). Prenzlauer
Now the German economy has been dealt quite a change: its infrastructure Berg’s few attractions include the Vitra Design museum and a
was modernized from
blow – and industrial cities further west are really the ground up, while Mitte (MI) 19th-century brewery complex that is now the Kulturbrauerei
culture centre. A good time to visit is Saturday when the eco-
feeling the pinch. But perhaps this time Berlin’s entire city districts were Since reunification, Mitte has rightly snatched back the title market is open on Kollwitzplatz, or Sunday when everyone
creative service sector can actually help the city e i t h e r c re a te d fro m of most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and off the sits outside being cool and eating breakfast all day.
emerge from this mess better than those cities scratch or thoroughly boulevard Unter den Linden, whose trees Marlene Dietrich
that traditionally did well bashing metal into cars remodeled. Moreover,
and fridges. We’re sure that Berlin’s large numbers Berlin has become a
once extolled in song, are baroque and classical monuments
to Prussian culture. The proximity of state libraries, the State Further afield
capital not only in the Opera, Humboldt University, the old Arsenal (now the German Districts mostly known for their restaurant and nightlife
of improvisational talents can weather the storm, political sense, but culturally and intellectually as well. History Museum), Gendarmenmarkt, Museum Island, Berliner scene are Schöneberg (SB), the centre of gay Berlin, and
and still find time to sip a few cocktails as well. As a result, it is now considered one of the most exciting Dom, and the abandoned East German Parliament building Friedrichshain (FH), filled with creatively tattered and tattooed
Any ideas on how to save Berlin and ourselves are and diverse cities in all of Europe. make for more talk, less walk tours. The architecturally students. Berlin has green spots galore, and after Tiergarten
welcome at berlin@inyourpocket.com. humbler area of Mitte is the Scheunenviertel, whose layout the most popular getaways are the Grunewald forest and lake
Berlin finds its positive image reflected in its tourist looks as if 17th-century planners got interrupted during a Wannsee, in the southwest district of Zehlendorf (ZD).
Enjoy Berlin. industry statistics: more and more people are visiting game of pick-up sticks. It’s on these streets that the casually
our city to see its countless attractions for themselves. chic saunter from courtyard gallery to sidewalk café, pointing
These include, for example, the ubiquitous traces of a
turbulent and emotional history and the city’s compelling
out directions to tourists seeking out the latest hotspots or Europe In Your Pocket
traces of the Jewish community that lived here from the late
museums, which invite you to browse the world’s cultures. 17th-century until the mass deportations of the Nazi era.
The contemporary art scene, too, has long since found a
home in Berlin, proof of which can be seen in the city’s
hundreds of galleries, many stellar collections – often Charlottenburg (CB)
exhibited in innovative settings – and, most recently, the If downtown to you means wide, traffic-filled streets,
new temporary art gallery in the heart of the city. crowds of shoppers, five-star hotels and tall buildings, then
Charlottenburg comes closest to fitting the bill in Berlin.
Cover story Great art can of course also be experienced in Berlin’s Much of what was here was bombed in the war and built
opera houses and its many renowned theaters. Its anew in the 1950s. The nexus of activity is the knot where
Th e prou d tower o f Berlin’s wide range of orchestras – including the Berliner Kufürstendamm, Joachimsthaler Str, Bahnhof Zoo and
Rote Rathaus (Red Town Hall) Philharmoniker, the Staatskapelle, the Deutsches Tauentzienstr. come together. Follow what becomes an
overlooking Alexanderplatz. Built Symphonie Orchester, the Rundfunksinfonie Orchester, increasingly silken ribbon down Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm)
in the 1860s, it is one of the few and countless others – is unmatched in its quality and and the setting becomes more genteel where you can’t see the
original remaining buildings on the diversity. And let’s not forget Berlin’s exciting club scene buildings for the trees. Nearby but isolated from the hoi polloi is
square, and it is well-known for the and the many different restaurants, pubs, and bars Schloss Charlottenburg, the residence of King Friedrich I.
band of red, handcrafted relief that make the city the place to be for anyone looking for
tiles depicting the history of the cosmopolitan flair and the latest trends.
city. It houses the offices of the In this spirit, I would like to wish you an eventful stay Tiergarten (TG)
city’s mayor and the government in Germany’s capital city – Tiergarten is both a district and the name of the 255 hectare
of the state of Berlin. welcome to Berlin! park that began as the Great Elector’s hunting grounds in
the 1600s and became increasingly more civilised with
landscaping in the 1800s. Traffic passes through it, doing a
dosey-doe around the Siegessäule (Victory Column). Slicing
though the park’s length is Str. des 17. Juni, which leads to the
Editorial Copyright notice Brandenburg Gate at the eastern end. Just south of it are the
Editor-in-Chief Jeroen van Marle Text and photos copyright In Your museums of the Kulturforum and Potsdamer Pl.
Editorial Contributors Pocket GmbH 2009. Maps copyright
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Wendy Wrangham, Christina Knight, cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
Catherine Lejtenyi of this publication may be reproduced Kreuzberg (KB) In Your Pocket is Europe’s biggest publisher of
In Your Pocket GmbH Frankfurt Abigail Paul in any form, except brief extracts for locally produced travel guides, producing more
Axel-Springer-Str. 39 the purpose of review, without written Thanks to a large Turkish community and more hippies,
Research Monika Kierewicz anarchists and alternative folks than you can shake a than 3.5 million guides per year. With print guides
10969 Berlin permission from the publisher and
Tel: (+49)(0)30 27 90 79 81
Layout & Design Tomáš Haman copyright owner. The brand name In Your didgeridoo at, Kreuzberg feels neither East nor West. It to more than 50 cities across the continent,
Photos Ansgar Meemken (AM), Pocket is used under license from UAB was the black sheep of West Berlin, left alone in its far-off travellers ask for In Your Pocket guides by name:
Fax: (+49)(0)30 24 04 73 50 Jeroen van Marle (JvM)
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Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

6 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT CULTURE & EVENTS 7
Berlin may be slap in the middle of Germany’s northeast- With three opera houses, seven resident orchestras, doz-
ern emptiness, but it is well connected, and once you Airports ens of variety and theatre companies and ticket prices to
are in Berlin, you’ll wish your town had such good public match all wallets, Berlin is truly a culture-lovers’ paradise.
transport. Berlin has two airports (online at www.berlin-airport.de). Here we present a selection of Berlin’s cultural highlights
that are suitable those who don’t speak German. Tickets
Tegel (TXL), the main airport, is 7km northwest of the
Public transport city centre. Behind the airport information desk in the
for theatre, concerts and other events can be purchased
at the venues, the tourism offices as well as at one of
Berlin‘s integrated network main hall are the BVG public transport ticket office many ticket kiosks (convenient ones are in Friedrichstraße
of S-Bahn (Schnellbahn), U- and the luggage office. Nearby are a post office and and Alexanderplatz stations). Online bookings and pay-
Bahn (Untererdische Bahn, ATMs. Tegel is well-connected to the city centre by bus; ments for most events can easily be done via the venue
u n d e r g r o u n d ), b u s, a n d the TXL JetExpressBus runs every 15-20 minutes websites or www.btm.de.
Straßenbahn (tram, in east- between 05:00 and 23:30, and is the quickest con-
nection to Hauptbahnhof station, Unter den Linden and
ern Berlin only) is run by the
Alexanderplatz. Bus X9 (every 5-10 minutes from 04:50 Opera & Classical music
BVG (tel. 194 49, www.bvg.
de) and the system runs very to 23:00) gets you to Zoo Bahnhof in 20 minutes. Bus Trains Deutsche Oper B-3, Bismarckstr. 35, CB, MDeutsche
smoothly, even though they confuse everyone by naming N°109 heads to S-Bahn station Charlottenburg and DB (Deutsche Bahn, German railways) runs ICE trains (high Oper, tel. 343 84 01/0700 67 37 23 75 46, www.
buses and trams the Metro network. If you remember the N°128 to U-Bahn station Osloer Straße. Single €2.10 speed), EC (EuroCity) and IC (InterCity). Seat reservations are deutscheoperberlin.de. A functional, introvert 1960s build-
number (or colour) and end station of the U or S line you want tickets can be bought from machines outside or from sometimes obligatory; check before boarding. Tickets can ing houses the only opera stage available to West Berliners
to use, you‘ll soon be navigating the labyrinth-like stations the driver, and are valid for two hours. A taxi to the city be purchased at the the DB Centres in the stations, or book during the Wall era. Italian conductor Renato Palumbo is the
like a local. Signs display the destination of the train, and at centre will cost about €18. online in advance at DB’s fabulous online train timetable at current music director.
U-Bahn stations, display when the next train will arrive. www.bahn.de.
The same tickets serve all BVG services. Vending machines Schönefeld airport (SXF) is 20km southeast of the city Berlin’s huge new glass-sheathed Hauptbahnhof main Konzerthaus F-3, Gendarmenmarkt 2, MI, MStadt-
at stations and on trams have instructions in English and centre and mostly serves budget flights and holiday char- station is where all regional and intercity trains stop. mitte, tel. 20 30 90, www.konzerthaus.de. Together
accept coins (and on platforms, banknotes too). At larger ters. A shuttle brings you to the nearby S-Bahn/railway sta- The station has all the essentials; shopping mall, post with the neighbouring Deutscher and Französischer Dom
stations there are S-Bahn information and sales counters. tion. An Airport Express train from here reaches the city office, toilets and showers and the Infostore tourist churches, the Konzerthaus forms Berlin’s most spectacu-
On buses, the driver can sell you a ticket. centre in 30 minutes; the S-Bahn take about 40 minutes. information centre. Zoo Bahnhof (Zoologischer Garten) lar architectural ensemble. Originally built as a theatre by
With a €2.10 Einzelticket (single ticket) you can travel Take bus X7 to U-Bahn station Rudow for Kreuzberg. and Ostbahnhof (in Friedrichshain, 20 minutes away by Friedrich Schinkel in 1821, it was destroyed in WWII and only
one-way, with transfers, within the AB zone. Buy a €1.30 S-Bahn from Zoo Bahnhof) have been reduced to regional reopened as a concert hall in 1984. The Berliner Sinfonie-
Kurzstrecke (short distance) ticket if you want to travel train stations. All three stations are connected by the Orchester (conductor Eliahu Inbal) plays at the venue.
up to three S/U-Bahn stops, or up to six stops by bus or tourist office, and some hotels sell a variety of multiday cards main S-Bahn line, and some to the U-Bahn. Regional (RE)
tram. If you anticipate a lot of travelling, consider either the including the €21.50. Welcome Card, which grants one adult trains along the elevated east-west track stop at Mitte’s Philharmonie E-4, Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1, TG,
Tageskarte (day card, valid until 03:00 the next morning; and three children three days of travel and the City Tour Alexanderplatz and Friedrichstraße stations as well. If MPotsdamer Platz, tel. 25 48 89 99, www.berlin-
€6.10) or seven-day pass (€26.20). Card is good for unlimited travel in the AB zone for 48 hours your ticket destination is ‘Berlin Stadtbahn’ you can use philharmonic.de. The crumpled-looking yellow modernist
If you‘re in a group of up to five people, you can buy a Kle- (€15.50) or 72 hours (€20.50), plus you get various discounts. it to travel further on the elevated S-Bahn track between building behind the chrome glitz of the Potsdamer Platz
ingruppenkarte (group day ticket, €15.90). The BVG, the If you‘re arriving in or leaving Berlin by train and your ticket Charlottenburg and Ostbahnhof stations. developments was once just as revolutionary as its new
says Berlin Stadtbahn, you can travel free on the elevated neighbour. The excellent Phil orchestra is directed by Liver-
S-Bahn line between Charlottenburg and Ostbahnhof on the
day of arrival/departure. Taxis pudlian Sir Simon Rattle.
Before boarding the S- or U-Bahn, always validate your ticket Taxi drivers have a fine reputation in Berlin, and not only for Staatsoper F/G-3, Unter den Linden 7, MI, MFranzö-
by punching it in the machine near the end of the platform. On the splendid cream-coloured Mercedes they drive. Taxis queue sische Str, tel. 20 35 45 55, www.staatsoper-berlin.
buses and trams, the machines are on board. Public transport outside S- and U-Bahn stops, and can also be hailed from the org. A grand building on Berlin’s grandest boulevard, with
uses the honour system, and there are regular checks by plain- street at the same rate. The special €3.50 Kurzstrecke is a beautifully rebuilt interiors and an in-house confectionary.
clothes inspectors. If you are caught without a ticket (or with set fare for short trips (2km or 5 minutes), and can only be Daniel Barenboim has been named chief conductor for life of
an unvalidated one) you‘ll be fined €40 on the spot. used in hailed cabs and if you mention it as soon as you board. the award-winning Staatskapelle orchestra, one of the oldest
You can go play the night owl, as the nightime transport Calling a taxi is an option as well; mention to the operator if you (1570) orchestras in the world.
options are excellent and have smooth connections. All want to pay by credit card, as not all taxis have card-reading
U-Bahn trains run every 15 minutes on weekend nights; on
weekdays buses marked N travel their routes every half
equipment. By the way, Funk means radio.
Shows
hour. Also, all tram and bus lines starting with M run every City Funk tel. 21 02 02 Admiralspalast F-3, Friedrichstrasse 101, MI, tel. 47
half hour at night. Funk Taxi Berlin tel. 26 10 26 99 74 99, www.admiralspalast.de. Reopened to the public
Spree Funk tel. 44 33 22 in 2006, the Admiralspalast was originally a bathhouse and
Würfel-Funk tel. 0800 222 22 55 (tollfree), tel. 0177-222 club for Prussian soldiers to relax in. Rebuilt in 1911, it was
22 77 (for mobile phones) famous in Berlin’s Roaring 20s for its cabaret, operetta house,
spa and brothel. Hitler cleaned up their acts in the 1930s,
installing a private box so that he could watch his favourite
operetta ‘The Merry Widow’, and in the 1940s the building
was spared war damage. Bertold Brecht used the theatre for
his eyebrow-raising new theatre in the 1950s and 60s before
the theatre went into decline. The complex has been restored
(without the brothel) and is a new centre of nightlife.
departure every 30 minutes
Berliner Residenz Concert B-3, Spandauer Damm
22-24, Große Orangerie of Schloss Charlottenburg, tel.
25 81 03 50, www.concerts-berlin.com. The Berliner
Residenz Orchestra plays well-known baroque-era works,
with musicians in period costumes and playing by candlelight.
Guests can combine the concert with a tour of Charlottenburg
castle or a trip on the river Spree, and dinner amidst 500
candles. Concerts up to 6 times weekly.QAdmission €29-65.
Dinner starts at 18:00, the concert at 20:30.

8 CULTURE & EVENTS CULTURE & EVENTS 9
Blue Man Group E-4, Marlene Dietrich Pl. 1, MI, the entertainment factor remains top priority, so that even
BLUEMAX Theatre, MPotsdamer Pl., tel. 697 25 55, the ‘variety-greenhorn’ gets his money worth. Q Shows at Ask the concierge
www.stage-entertainment.de/12964.htm. Berlin has 20:00, Sat 19:00 and 22:00, Sun 19:00 (17:00 from October).
been graced with one of the most unusual shows to hit the Closed Mon. Admission from €25; Fri, Sat from €29. Berlin’s top hotels all have concierges that are there
stage anywhere. The (quite literally) Blue Man Group has been to make the guest’s lives easier. They can inform you
wowing audiences in the US and now start their European La Vie en Rose F-6, Tempelhof airport, MPlatz der about current events, book tickets, make restaurant
spread of colour. The show is a kaleidoscope, a whirlwind, a Luftbrücke, tel. 69 51 30 00, www.revuetheater.de. reservations and hand out copies of Berlin In Your
puzzle, psychedelic, and many more adjectives that people Apparently this is the only revue theater in the world that’s Pocket, transport maps, and brochures. Concierges
just haven’t managed to sum up the visually and musically in an airport. La Vie en Rose has daily shows with magicians, can be recognised by the crossed golden keys on the
powerful show with. We’ll add creative, comedic and intelli- acrobats, singers, can-can girls and is the only one in town lapels of their jackets.
gent. Q Tue, Fri 20:00; Wed, Thu 18:00, 21:00; Sat 15:00, to add a touch of eroticism. Q Shows at 21:00, Sun 20:00.
18:00, 21:00; Sun 18:00. Tickets Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun are Closed Mon. Admission €20-28, €45 including dinner, €65
€66.60. Fri, Sat are €78.30. Closed Mon. A including dinner and drinks.
Classical Music
Friedrichstadtpalast F-3, Friedrichstr. 107, MI, Madi-Zelt der Sinne (Madi - Tent of the Senses) 3-5 Apr, 20:00 KH
MOranienburger Tor, tel. 23 26 23 26, www.friedrich- B-1, Bernhard-Lichtenberg-Pl., corner Holzhauser Str., Konzerthausorchester Berlin
stadtpalast.de. No one does over-the-top better than the MU Holzhauser Str., Tegel, tel. 01805/57 00 00, www. Conductor: Walter Weller, Alban Gerhardt (Violincello); works
producers and long-legged dancers and acrobats of Friedrich- madi-ZeltderSinne.de. One way to cocoon yourself from win- by Haydn, Saint-Saens and Beethoven
stadtpalast. This venue normally puts on the glitziest, biggest ter is to slip into this cozy, Moroccan royal-style tent in north
revues in town. Q Tickets €17 - 61. Berlin’s Tegel district. You’ll be whisked away to the Orient with 4 Apr, 20:00 PH
a Middle Eastern four-course meal and 3.5-hour show with Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin
Chamäleon G-2, Rosenthaler Straße 40/41 (Hack- belly dancers, story-tellers, musicians, acrobats, and jugglers. Conductor: Sir Roger Norrington, Ilya Gringolts (Violin); works
esche Höfe), MI, MHackescher Markt, tel. 400 05 The brainchild of a Palestinian Berlin resident, the show makes by Ralph Vaughan Williams and Edward Elgar
90, www.chamaeleonberlin.com. The Chamäleon offers
high-class entertainment with a well-balanced blend of
the small audience (there is only room for 45 guests in the
tent) feel at home with rosewater, a welcome drink, gleaming 7 Apr, 20:00 PH
Daily open: 11 - 21:00
variety, music and theatre, intriguingly implemented through mint tea sets, and drags from a hookah waterpipe. Q Shows Staatskapelle Berlin, Staatsopernchor
outstanding artistry and fascinating stage design. In spite of Thu - Sat at 19:30, doors open 18:00. (€75). Conductor: Daniel Barenboim; Johannes Brahms
the reformation modern vaudeville is currently undergoing, 1500 m² exhibition space
Schiller Theater C-3, Bismarckstr. 110, CB, MErnst- 9 Apr, 20:00 PH
Reuter-Pl., tel. 847 20 03 12/0180-557 00 00. Musicals Daniel Barenboim (Piano), Thomas Quasthoff (Bariton)
Venue list Berlin animate the stage of this landmark theatre that originally Liederabend: Franz Schubert
opened in 1907 with the German poet and playwright Schil- Have a look at the
AD – Admiralspalast, Friedrichstraße 101-102, tel. 47 ler’s The Robbers (1782). 10 Apr, 20:00 Uhr PH
99 74 99, www.admiralspalast.de Orchestra and Choir of the Teatro alla Scala international art scene
AR – Arena, Eichenstr. 4, tel. 533 20 30, www.arena- Stars in Concert J-6, Sonnenallee 225 (Estrel Festival Conductor: Daniel Barenboim; Giuseppe Verdi
berlin.de. Center), KB, MSonnenallee, tel. 68 31 68 31, www.stars-
BG – Berlinische Galerie, Alte Jacobstr. 124-128, tel. in-concert.de. Vegas meets Berlin in the huge Estrel hotel and 11 Apr, 20:00 PH
78 90 26 00, www.berlinischegalerie.de convention centre, where the Stars in Concert show features Das Sinfonie Orchester Berlin Special Exhibition
CB – c/o Berlin, Postfuhramt, Oranienburger Str. 35, impressive performances of lookalike artists Elton John, Elvis, Conductor: Rainer Koch, Mario Häring (Piano); works by
tel. 28 09 19 25, www.co-berlin.info Tina Turner, Joe Cocker and Sting. Tickets are also available for Schubert, Tchaikovsky, Liszt
CC – ColumbiaClub, Columbiadamm 9-11, tel. 698 09
80, www.columbiaclub.de
combinations with dinner and/or a stay at the hotel. Q Shows
at 20:30, Sat also at 17:30. Closed Tue. Admission €16-45. 12 Apr, 20:00 PH
Aboriginal Art
CH – Columbiahalle, Columbiadamm 13-21, tel. 698
09 80, www.columbiahalle.de Tipi Zelt am Kanzleramt E-3, Große Querallee, TG,
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, RIAS Kam-
merchor
from Australia
FM – Museum für Film und Fernsehen Berlin, Pots- MUnter den Linden, tel. 0180-327 93 58, www.tipi-das- Conductor: Andrew Manze, Marlis Petersen (Soprano), Kelley
damer Str. 2, tel. 300 90 30, www.filmmuseum-berlin. zelt.de. Continuing a tradition that started a century ago in O´Connor (Mezzosoprano), Christoph Strehl (Tenor), Albert
de Berlin, the ‘Tipi Tent’ team wine, dine and entertain guests for Dohmen (Bassbariton); Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy Visit! Enjoy!
KB – Kulturbrauerei, Knaackstr. 97, tel. 44315151, an evening in their surprisingly elegant, year-round tent in Tier-
www.kulturbrauerei.de
KH – Konzerthaus Berlin, Gendarmenmarkt, tel. 20 30
garten. Before the show starts, gourmet food is served from
their on-site kitchen. Then it’s over to the artists featured that
Find the art you desire!
90, www.konzerthaus.de night to entertain the audience. Q Tickets €18.50-36. Prinzessinnensaal
LI – Lido, Cuvrystr. 7, tel. 69 56 68 40, www.lido-berlin.
Friedrichstrasse 134, 10117 Berlin
de
MB – Messe Berlin, Messedamm 22, tel. 303 80, www. Theatre & Comedy Wh ere on ce Prussian
princesses lived there is [opposite the Friedrichstadtpalast]
messe-berlin.de English Theatre Berlin F-5, Fidicinstr. 40, KB, MPlatz now a complex of exclu-
MK – Museum für Kommunikation, Leipziger Str. 16, der Luftbrücke, tel. 693 56 92/691 12 11, www.etber- sive meeting and function
tel. 20 29 40, www.museumsstiftung.de lin.de. Berlin residents, whether native English speakers or rooms in the Opernpalais S + U Friedrichstr., U-Bhf. Oranienburger
MS – Max-Schmeling-Halle, Am Falkplatz, tel. 44 30 not, come to this theatre for the edgy programming on the Unter den Linden. Tradi-
Tor, Tram: M1 / 12 stop Oranienb. Tor,
45, www.max-schmeling-halle.de little black box’s stage. The entrance is in the back courtyard. tion and modern hospi-
OW – O2 World, Mühlenstraße 12-30, tel. 20607080, Q Admission €14/8. tality define the style,
www.o2world.de and make for a unique 5 – 10 min. walking distance from:
PG – Pergamonmuseum, Am Kupfergraben 5, tel. Kookaburra G-2, Schönhauser Allee 184, PB, MRosa- event. Arrangements like Museums – Insel, Brandenburger Tor,
20905577, www.smb.spk-berlin.de Luxemburg-Pl., tel. 48 62 31 86, www.comedy-club. “Königsblau” or “Operdin-
PH – Philharmonie, Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1, tel. 25 biz. If the only German thing that makes you laugh is men ner” combined with the restaurant / cafe in the Art Center Berlin
48 80, www.berliner-philharmoniker.de wearing sandals with white socks, skip most the nights at this gastronomical offer of the Information: +49 (0)30 / 27 87 90 27
TD – Tempodrom, Möckernstr. 10, tel. 69 53 38 85, comedy club, except for Laughapalooza, the English-language house are very popular, and in the warmer months the Admission € 2,50/5,- family € 8,-
www.tempodrom.de stand-up comedy show on the third Tuesday every month. event can spill out onto the lovely Princesses Garden.
TK – Temporäre Kunsthalle, Schlossfreiheit 1, tel. 25 San Franciscan transplant Tamara Ingram hosts the evening. Opernpalais, Unter den Linden 5, tel. 20 26 83, www.art-center-berlin.de
76 20 40, www.kunsthalle-berlin.de Tapas and drinks are served. Q Shows: Tue-Sat 20:30, Sun info@opernpalais.de, www.opernpalais.de.
20:00; Fri, Sat also at 24:00. Admission €8.

18-19 Apr, 20:00 PH 2-3 May, 20:00 PH

Yorckschlösschen Berliner Philharmoniker Berliner Philharmoniker Papagena Ticket Hotline
Conductor: Alan Gilbert, Steven Isserlis (Violincello); works Conductor: Riccardo Muti; works by Giuseppe Verdi,
by Antonín Dvorák and Bohuslav Martinu Giuseppe Martucci and Franz Schubert Berlin offers hundreds of entertainment possibilities
on any given day or night of the year. But the process
20 Apr, 20:00 PH 8-10 May, 20:00 KH of getting tickets can be daunting for a foreigner who is
Staatskapelle Berlin Konzerthausorchester Berlin already in town, unfamiliar with internet booking options
Conductor: Pierre Boulez, Daniel Barenboim (Piano); works Conductor: Marin Alsop, Yossif Ivanov (Violin); works by or indeed unfamiliar with German language. And what
by Elliott Carter and Gustav Mahler Brahms, Barber and Dvorák about making a choice about where to go, and finding
out if a show is suitable for non-German speakers? So,
22 Apr, 20:00 PH 8-10 May, 20:00 PH those interested in grand opera, classical concerts,
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin Berliner Philharmoniker musical shows, cabaret, theater, stadium pop concerts
Conductor: Vladimir Ashkenazy, Radovan Vlatkovic (Horn); works Conductor: Kirill Petrenko, Lars Vogt (Piano); works by Edward or an intimate jazz or independent music gig at a small
by Gabriel Fauré, Krzysztof Penderecki and Albert Roussel Elgar and Ludwig van Beethoven club can call Papagena to find entertainment highlights
to make their stay in Berlin unforgettable.
23-25 Apr, 20:00 PH 11-12 May, 20:00 PH
A Kreuzberg institution, the Yorckschlösschen (‘small Berliner Philharmoniker, Rundfunkchor Berlin, MDR Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin Papagena can be contacted from Monday-Saturday
Yorck castle’) has been here for over a century, gather- Rundfunkchor Leipzig, WDR Rundfunkchors Köln, Her- Conductor: Ingo Metzmacher, Nelson Freire (Piano); works by 09:00-20:00, Sundays/holidays 14:00-20:00 at tel.
ing fame in the 1970s as an artists’ watering hole and ren des SWR Vokalensembles Stuttgart Dmitri Shostakovitch and Ludwig van Beethoven 030 479 974 44 or via www.papagena-karten.de.
now a hub of local social life. Inside, there’s a busy bar Conductor: Peter Eötvös; works by Johann Sebastian Bach,
that features regular live music, with the emphasis on Richard Wagner and Bernd Alois Zimmermann 15-17 May, 20:00 PH
traditional jazz, swing and black rhythm’n’blues. Berliner Philharmoniker, Rundfunkchor Berlin
24-25 Apr, 20:00 KH Conductor: Seiji Ozawa; Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy
Concerts take place each Wednesday, Friday and Konzerthausorchester Berlin
Saturday from 21:00, with Sunday concerts beginning Conductor: Aleksandar Markovic, works by Ligeti, Haydn 16 May, 20:00 KH
at 14:00. and Berlioz Konzerthausorchester Berlin
Conductor: Jonathan Darlington; works by Britten, Haydn
April 26 Apr, 20:00 PH and Dvorák
1 21:00 Los Reyes del K.O., Latin Blues Power Orchestre de la Suisse Romande
2,3 21:00 Juke Joint Pimps, R&B sensation Conductor: Marek Janowski, Jean-Yves Thibaudet (Piano); 18-19 May, 20:00 PH
4 21:00 Django Lassi, Gypsy Swing works by Jarrell, Ravel and Berlioz Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin
5 14:00 Kuchenbeckers Sonntagsbraten, Boogie Conductor: Ingo Metzmacher; works by Ferruccio Busoni,
Session 28 Apr, 20:00 PH Rudi Stephan, Franz Schreker and Max Reger
6 21:00 Rashidii Graffiti Band, R&B + more Neubrandenburger Philharmonie, Philharmonischer Chor
7 21:00 Hub Hildenbrand Trio, Jazz Conductor: Stefan Malzew; Ferruccio Busoni
10,15 21:00 London Phillips & Friends, R&B, Blues
11 17:00 Roger Radatz Trio, Jazz 30 Apr - 2 May, 20:00 KH
12 14:00 Otto Hamborg’s Viertakter, Boogie Admiralspalast show
papagena
Konzerthausorchester Berlin
16 21:00 Kat Baloun’s Mad Dawgs, Blues & more Conductor: Gennadi Rozhdestvensky; works by Prokofiev
17 21:00 Dernier Metro Trio feat. Paul Schwingen- and Tchaikovsky Th e worl d pre mi er o f
Ticket Hotline
schlögel the “La Belle Bizarre Du
18 21:00 Matthias Harig Band, A tribute to Miles 1 May, 20:00 PH M o u l i n Ro u ge” s h ow,
Davis Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Rundfunkchor based on the successful
19 14:00 Jive Park, Swing Show Berlin Moulin Rouge film, takes
22 21:00 The Crazy Hambones Blues Conductor: Sir Andrew Davis; works by Giuseppe Verdi and place in Berlin this spring.
23 21:00 Julius Lahai & Band (Liberia), Soul, Funk,
Pop
Charles Ives On two nights, 22 and
23 April, the feel-good,
Hottest Ticket in Town!
24 21:00 Fritz Börnds Bandstand
Marooush bittersweet love stor y
25 21:00 Ray Blue’s Cross Continental, Jazz
26 14:00 Acki Hoffmann & Friends, Swing, Jazz
Marooush isn’t just great for food and clubbing – it now
set in the 1900’s Parisian
entertainment district of
english spoken
29 21:00 Chris Jagger & Friends, R&B + more Montmartre gets the full
also offers belly dancing every Friday and Saturday
30 21:00 Rashidii Graffiti Band, R&B + more musical treatment, with
evening.
Marooush, Knesebeckstraße 46, tel. 887 11 83 a full cast and two top-notch musical stars in the main
May roles; Anna Montanaro and Jesper Tydén.
35, www.marooush.de. Open 16:00-01:00.
2 21:00 Kat Baloun’s Mad Dawgs, Blues The Moulin Rouge courtesan Fatime and the naïve aris-
3 14:00 Louise Gold & die Herren Quartz, Jazz, Swing tocrat Armand fall in love against all odds, and their story
6 21:00 Katbite, Indie Pop is played out with a mix of the most unlikely but most
9 21:00 Kredit Krunch, R&B fitting pop and rock songs music – including the Can-
10 14:00 The Dizzy Swingers, Swing, Jazz can but also Madonna’s Material Girl, Marilyn Monroe’s
13 21:00 Steven Finn, Blues Diamonds are a girl’s best friend, David Bowie’s Heroes
15 21:00 Double Stomp, Blues and even Nirvana’s Smells like teen spirit.
16 21:00 The New Standard, Jazz La Belle Bizarre Du Moulin Rouge celebrates the world
17 14:00 Carmen Jaime & Friends, Jazz, Blues of illusion, where everything seems bigger, prettier,
20 21:00 Ernie’s Mittwochscocktail, Blues & Boogie more colourful, faster and wilder – just like we’d like
23 21:00 Wayne Brown & The Virtual Jazzband, Jazz our lives to be.
24 14:00 Acki Hoffmann & Friends, Swing, Jazz
27 21:00 Ernie’s Mittwochscocktail, Blues & Boogie 22-23 April, 20:00. Admiralspalast F-3, Friedrich-
30 21:00 Los Reyes del K.O., Latin Blues Power
31 21:00 The 61-Paraders, After-KdK-Party
strasse 101, MI, tel. 47 99 74 99, www.admiral-
spalast.de.
phone 030 - 479 974 44

Bläsersolisten
Kennedy Museum Conductor: Sir Simon Rattle; works by Siegfried Matthus Cinemas
and Richard Wagner
From May 1, The Kennedys Foreign film offerings in German cinemas are often
Museum has a new special 30 May, 20:00 PH dubbed, which is an irritation for non-German speakers
Chicago Tribune
exhibition called “President Das Sinfonie Orchester Berlin but is a good gig for the voice-over artists. Look in local
© Pete Souza
Obama”. Conductor: Renchang Fu, Tong Shen (Piano), Ying Zhang listings magazines like Tip and Zitty, for subtitled films;
(Violin), Constantin Avgerinos (solo drum); works by Ludwig these are marked in with OmU or OmengU (original ver-
Kennedy Museum F-3, van Beethoven, Bedrich Smetana, Peter I. Tchaikovsky sion with German/English subtitles) and OF or OV (original
Pa r i s e r P l a t z 4 a , M I , version); DF means German version. CineStar has the
MUnter den Linden, tel. largest selection of non-dubbed films.
20 65 35 70, www.theken- Senator Obama Concerts
nedys.de. follows a hearing 1 Apr, 20:00 MS Arsenal E-4, Potsdamer Str. 2, KB, MPotsdamer
at the Capitol Bob Dylan (Rolk) Pl., tel. 26 95 51 00, www.fdk-berlin.de. This little
art house cinema is in the basement beneath the Film
21 May, 20:00 PH 7 April, 21:00 LI Museum in the Sony Center. International films, some
Oslo Philharmonic Röyksopp (Elektro) in English, some with English subtitles, are the normal
Conductor: Jukka-Pekka Saraste, Anne-Sophie Mutter fare. Q Tickets €6.
(Violin); works by Hector Berlioz, Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy 15 April, 20:00 AR
and Jean Sibelius Jackson Browne (Rock) CineStar Original E-4, Potsdamer Str. 4 (Sony
Center), TG, MPotsdamer Pl., tel. 26 06 64 00,
22-24 May, 20:00 PH 20 Apr, 20:00 OW www.cinestar.de. The biggest cinema in Germany is
Berliner Philharmoniker, Rundfunkchor Berlin Lionel Richie (R&B) loved by English-speakers and film purists for show-
Conductor: Claudio Abbado, Angelika Kirchschlager ing movies in their original version: no dubbing, no
(Mezzosoprano); works by Franz Schubert, Gustav Mahler 24 April, 20:00 AD subtitles. With sleek ambience, eight screens, cocktail
and Claude Debussy Antony & The Johnsons (Indie) bar, roomy seating (even love seats), this is where to
catch the latest blockbuster. Being late is no problem,
26-27 May, 20:00 PH 8 May, 20:00 OW as there are at least 30 minutes of previews and
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin Beyoncé (Soul) ads (though they cut this shorter for late and very
Conductor: Ingo Metzmacher, Angela Denoke (Soprano), long films). Q Tickets €7.50, Mon, Wed €6.50, Tue
Christianne Stotijn (Mezzosoprano), Johan Botha (Tenor); 9 May, 20:00 AR €4.50, Thu €5.50.
works by Gustav Mahler and Arnold Schönberg Babyshambles (Indie)
Hackesche Höfe G-2, Rosenthaler Str. 40,
28 May, 20:00 PH 16 May, 20:00 TD MI, MHackescher Markt, tel. 283 46 03, www.
Berliner Philharmoniker, Berliner Philharmonische Robin Gibb (Pop) hackesche-hoefe.org. Many foreign films play here,
so speakers of languages other than German could
get by here as long as the films aren’t dubbed many
have German subtitles). You’ll have to climb three
Lost in
May 14 th – June 7th flights of stairs to get here, but there’s a nice row of
CARRINGTON-
banquettes to catch your breath in. Q Tickets €7.50,
Mon €6, Tue €5. Translation?
BROWN Highend 54 F-2, Oranienburger Str. 54, (Tache-
Enjoy movies in the original
les), MI, MOranienburger Tor, tel. 283 14 98.
Documentaries, anything by Jim Jarmusch or Goran language versions! Welcome to
Bregovic, and the occasional reprise of the Coen
brother’s The Big Lebowski are standard fare in the Germany’s largest variety of non-
intimate theater here. The modern couch seating is dubbed international movies. On
positively luxurious and quite a contrast to the rundown
building itself. A cool bar is attached. Q Tickets €5-6, 8 screens inside the spectacular
Mon €4.50. Sony Center at Potsdamer Platz.
IMAX 3D Sony Center E-4, Potsdamer Str. 4, For showtimes and tickets go to
(Sony Center), TG, MPotsdamer Pl., tel. 26 06 64 www.cinestar.de
00, www.cinestar-imax.de. Wherever they take you,
the combination of towering IMAX screen and superb
cinematography is awe-inspiring. Films last 45 minutes,
German version only. Q Tickets €8.50, Sat, Sun €8.70,
Tue €6.70.
Paris C-4, Kurfürstendamm 211, CB, MUhland-

April 28th – May 13th str., tel. 881 31 19, w w w.cinema-paris.de. The
largest air mili tar y mission in histor y took place
during peacetime in Berlin. The documentar y The
Berlin Airlift shows how planes supplied ever y thing
Starring 2.5 million West Berliners needed for 11 months
Rebecca Carrington b et we en Jun e 1948 an d May 1949. In En glish
A Homage to Great Female Singers & Colin Brown ever y Saturday at 11:00. Q Tickets €8, Mon €5,
Tue, Wed €6.
Bar jeder Vernunft • Schaperstraße 24 • Tickets 883 15 82 • www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de U/S-Bahn to „Potsdamer Platz“, Busses 148, 200, M41

14 CULTURE & EVENTS WHERE TO STAY 15
23 May, 20:00 CH The hotel categories are based on the most expensive
Snow Patrol (Rock) Filmpark Babelsberg events double room rack rate price. All prices include VAT and Symbol key
breakfast unless mentioned otherwise. The room prices
25 May, 20:00 OW The film themepark near Potsdam opens to a year that we list are rack rates; the price you pay may be P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
Simply Red (Pop, Soul) that’s crammed full with events aimed at children as different depending on the season, holidays, weekend
well as adults. O Casino H Conference facilities
offers, and special events like trade fairs.
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
Exhibitions 10-13 April - Easter Opening
Until 29 March 2009 FM The Filmpark just before Easter on 7 April, with 7000 Over €200 R Internet W Wi-Fi L Guarded parking
Loriot – the hommage. flowers relieving visitors from their winter gloom. In the Adlon F-2, Unter den Linden 77, MI, MUnter den Linden, F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms
Collected works of comedian and artist Vicco von Bülow alias weekend, the park is full of Easter events, attracting tel. 226 10, fax 22 61 22 22, adlon@kempinski.com,
young and old. K Restaurant M Nearest S/U-Bahn station
Loriot, celebrating his 85th birthday. www.hotel-adlon.de. The historic Adlon hotel has views of
16 May – 10 years Volcano arena the Brandenburg Gate, unfussy 1920s-style rooms with cherry D Sauna C Swimming pool
Until 10 May 2009 FM It’s been a decade since the Volcano arena theatre was wood, black marble and rich fabrics, plus the staff provides
Casting a Shadow. Alfred Hitchcock and his workshop opened in the Filmpark; it’s the venue for many exciting impeccable service. However, the Adlon’s excellent services
Exhibition about Alfred Hitchcock’s film productions, his coworkers and spectacular shows. can often bring noteriety - first Michael Jackson’s baby-dangling Brandenburger Hof C-4, Eislebener Str. 14, WD,
and actors. The museums collection, showing Hitchcock’s links episode, and now the CEO of the Bundesbank has been forced MAugsburger Str., tel. 21 40 50, fax 21 40 51 00, info@
to Berlin, is added to by objects from Illinois and LA. F i l m p a r k B a b e l s b e r g G r o ß b e e r e n s t r. , to resign after having Dresdner Bank pay his Adlon tab after he brandenburger-hof.com, www.brandenburger-hof.com.
Babelsberg, tel. 0331 721 27 50, www.filmpark. stayed here for the euro introduction celebrations. There is no In this beautiful light-filled city mansion, rooms are classic
de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. such thing as bad publicity though, and with such esteemed Bauhaus designed by Le Corbusier and Mies van der Rohe,
Irish Harp & Kilkenny guests checking in on a regular basis the Adlon remains the
most famous hotel in Berlin, nay Germany. Q375 rooms
and make other design hotels look amateur. The Japanese
garden courtyard works its way into the atrium in the form of
Kilkenny Irish Pub (302 singles €240 - 310, 302 doubles €290 - 360, 72 suites ikebana floral arrangements and meandering vines overhead.
Fun & football, a drink or two and a bite to eat go hand in €520 - 3800, 1 presidential suite €8500). Breakfast €29. Ms. Brueder in the ‘beautysuite’ could be the most person-
hand. And if that’s what you’re after, the Kilkenny Irish Pub is PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh able masseuse and beautician in town - she offers the only
where you find it. Watch all major sport events, Champions silk cosmetic treatments of Kanebo in Berlin. Q82 rooms
League, Premier League, Formula One etc. on large screens, Am Zoo C-4, Kurfürstendamm 25, CB, MKurfürsten- (30 singles €170 - 260, 48 doubles €245 - 295, 4 suites
together with locals and tourists from all over the world. damm, tel. 88 43 70, fax 88 43 77 14, berlin@hotel-am- €345 - 480). HARLEKD hhhhh
Am Zwirngraben 17-20, tel. 2832084, www. zoo.de, www.hotel-am-zoo.de. With in-room safes, 24-hour
kilkenny-pub.de. Open daily from 10:00. service and a strolling night watchman, you can rest assured Concorde C-4, Augsburger Str. 41, MKurfürsten-
at this family-owned hotel just around the bend from Zoo damm, tel. 800 99 90, fax 80 09 99 99, berlin@
Station. Loyal employees have worked here for decades, and concorde-hotels.com, w w w.concorde-hotels.com.
the floorboards creak underfoot, just like home. The building The latest five-star hotel to open in Berlin, the French-run,
dates to 1891 but the look is 1980s-standard; some furnish- 11-floor Hôtel Concorde Berlin impresses with its wonderfully
ings have white or teal finishes. Q136 rooms (74 singles designed rooms with sleek fine woods, contemporary art,
€133 - 153, 62 doubles €175 - 255). THARLG flatscreen TVs and, on higher floors, fantastic views. The
Until 24 May CB curved corner suites have sliding walls, elegant free-standing
Annie Leibovitz. A Photographer´s Life, 1990-2005 ARCOTEL Velvet F-2/3, Oranienburger Str. 52, MI, bathtubs and electronically adjustable bathroom window
Some 300 works by the American photographer Annie MOranienburger Tor, tel. 278 75 30, fax 278 75 38 00, opacity. Back downstairs, there are top-notch conference
Leibovitz (1949): large landcapes as well as private family velvet@arcotel.at, www.arcotel.at. This Austrian-owned, facilities, and the Le Faubourg brasserie. The business
photos and small-format black and white portraits. 7-floor design hotel has the cuisine of Lutter & Wegner to keep centre and wellness centre are free to use for all guests.
it from getting homesick but otherwise fits well onto gentrifying Q311 rooms (singles €230 - 425, doubles €230 - 425, 44
10 April - 14 June TK Oranienburger Str. A flatscreen TV and CD player are the rooms’ suites €355 - 1170). Breakfast €21.
Katharina Grosse technical perks. Forget to draw the curtains in front of your wall
For the Temporäre Kunsthalle Katharina Grosse designed of window and you may end up being the best entertainment Crowne Plaza Berlin City Centre D-4, Nürnberger Str.
four new images, unifying architecture, sculpture and on the street. Q85 rooms (71 doubles €110 - 250, 14 suites 65, CB, MWittenbergpl., tel. 21 00 70, fax 213 20 09,
Irish Harp Pub painting. €150 - 450). Breakfast €15. PTHARULGK info@cp-berlin.com, www.cp-berlin.com. Just off western
Just off Kurfürstendamm, the Irish Harp Pub is a haven Berlin’s main shopping sprawl, the business-orientated
for music and sports fan alike. 2 bars, a cozy ambience, Until 21 June 2009 PG art’otel Berlin City Centre West C-4, Lietzenburger Str. Crowne Plaza offers American-style rooms. It’s the facilities
3 large TVs and a big screen provide the setting for a Dionysus – Conversion and ecstasy 85, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 887 77 70, fax 887 77 77 77, that make the difference between the 22sqm rooms; all are
great night out, or an afternoon full of excitement and Facets of the Greek god of dance, theatre and wine, aobwres@artotels.de, www.artotels.com. The staff’s casual fitted with bathtubs and internet keyboards that can be used
entertainment while following international football, rugby Dionysus. To illustrate the depiction of Dionysus, both antique black uniforms are suitably gallerist in a setting full of works by with the TV. Downstairs is the pool/fitness area, plenty of
and other sports, or playing a round of darts. and modern objects are on display. Warhol and photos of the white-haired enigma and pals snapped flexible conference space, Kemmons bar, Wilson’s restaurant
Giesebrechtstr. 15, tel. 22328735, www.harp-pub. by Christopher Makos. The lobby’s seating is as comfortable as and a pub. Q423 rooms (singles €99 - 209, doubles €99 -
de. Open daily from 10:00. Until 30 August MK it is funky. Service is taken seriously as evidenced by the ques- 209). PHARUFLGKDC hhhh
Absolutely private!? From diary to weblog tionnaire left on your pillow that asks, what art’rageous service
Comprising over 300 diaries and weblogs, this exhibition means to you? Q91 rooms (11 singles €130 - 180, 74 doubles Ellington Hotel D-4, Nürn-
shows and discusses various forms of paper and electronic €160 - 250, 4 suites €180 - 280). PARUG hhhh berger Str. 50-55, MWitten-
diaries. bergplatz, tel. 68 31 50/683
Berlin D-4, Lützowpl. 17, TG, MNollendorfpl., tel. 15 55 55, contact@ellington-
29 May - 31 August BG 260 50, fax 26 05 27 16, info@hotel-berlin.de, www. hotel.com, w w w.elling ton-
John Heartfield – Cuts from timee. Photo montages hotel-berlin.de. Mostly known for its conference facilities, hotel.com. A beautiful 1920s
1918-1938 the Berlin is a 1950s hotel in a central but rather bland area building holds the Ellington hotel,
Retrospective with photos montages by John Heartfield (1891- just south of Tiergarten park. The glam period lobby and named after the American jazz legend. Situated near the
1968), a protagonist of the Berliner Dada movement. restaurant give way to comfortably furnished rooms, in a Kurfürstendamm and Berlin Zoo, the rooms here have clean,
variety of styles. The Lützow Lounge sports bar shows live understated and elegant design, with the Tower Suites offer-
sports action on big screens, while peace can be found in the ing great views over town. The Duke hotel restaurant serves
Fairs green summer garden restaurant. Q701 rooms (103 singles up international cuisine in fabulous surroundings. Q285
19-22 Feb MB €100 - 195, 569 doubles €100 - 245, 29 suites €220 - 900). rooms (singles €108 - 238, doubles €118 - 248, suites €168
MotorWelt – car fair www.motorwelt-berlin.de PHARUFLGKD hhhh - 428). PJHARUFLK

16 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 17
Estrel I-6, Sonnenallee 225, NK, MSonnenallee, tel. with several saunas. Q584 rooms (534 singles €165 - 350, suites, ten conference rooms, two bars and two restaurants rightly proud to have the city’s largest hotel pool and sauna
683 10/68 31 23 45, info@estrel.com, www.estrel. 534 doubles €170 - 400, 50 suites €215 - 2500). Breakfast are available for a stay, meeting or event. The DomLounge, area. Q384 rooms (374 singles €195 - 265, 374 doubles
com. The largest hotel in Germany manages to feel less like €20. PHARUIFLEGKDC hhhhh a unique event location on the top floor, offers stunning views €195 - 265, 9 executive suite €315 - 385, 1 presidential suite
something out of the film Metropolis and more like a sunny of the capital. Relaxation is guaranteed in the spa area with €1500 - ). Breakfast €19. PHARUFLGKDC
Florida mall. Seven bars and restaurants ring a slope-roofed Kempinski Bristol C-4, Kurfürstendamm 27, CB, MUh- swimming pool, different saunas, steam bath and a 24-hour hhhhh
atrium above which rise 1,125 rooms and suites. Modern landstr., tel. 88 43 40, fax 883 60 75, reservations.bris- fitness room. Massage and beauty treatments are available
art from the owners’ collection fills the public spaces and tol@kempinski.com, www.kempinskiberlin.de. The elite on request. Q427 rooms (405 doubles €149 - 380, 21 Steigenberger Hotel Berlin C/D-4, Los-Angeles-Pl.
rooms. The massive conference center even includes a glass- Kempinski and Adlon are sister properties, but this is where suites €450 - 650, 1 Nikolai suite €850 - 1200). Breakfast 1, CB, MKurfürstendamm, tel. 212 70, fax 212 71 17,
enclosed press box for the boxing matches that take place well-travelled regulars feel more at home - out of the limelight, €24. PHARUFGKDC hhhhh berlin@steigenberger.de, www.berlin.steigenberger.de.
here. Even more Las Vegas-style is the Stars in Concert show but still on a swank corner of Ku’damm. The business lunch Centrally located but overlooking a quiet square, the Steigen-
in the attached Estrel Festival Center. Superstar look-alikes special is a steal. Q301 rooms (249 singles €265 - 326, Ritz-Carlton E/F-4, Potsdamer Platz 3, MI, MPots- berger Hotel Berlin presents the standard five star services in
sing to live music here and have made the show Berlin’s most 249 doubles €322 - 447, 52 suites €470 - 1800). Breakfast damer Pl., tel. 33 77 77, fax 337 77 55 55, berlin@ an understated, elegant way. Catering to the businessman as
successful. When booking a room, ask about packages that €9.90/23. PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh ritzcarlton.com, www.ritzcarlton.com. Fake marble well as other travellers, there are comfort rooms and execu-
include it. Estrel is near the S-Bahn, but not central to sights. Corinthian columns and a sweeping staircase dominate tive rooms, as well as suites, plus a choice of restaurants and
Q1125 rooms (1125 singles €123 - 235, 1125 doubles Mandala E-4, Potsdamer Str. 3, TG, MPotsdamer Pl, tel. the lobby, where the classic dark wooden bar opens with a well appointed wellness centre. Q397 rooms (387 singles
€134 - 246, 69 suites €164 - 639, 1 presidential suite €1790). 590 05 00 00, fax 590 05 05 00, welcome@madison-berlin. a ceremony every evening at 18:00 and serves over 400 €140 - 319, 387 doubles €169 - 319, 10 suites €439 - 1899).
Breakfast €14.50. PHARUFLGKD hhhh de, www.themandala.de. Excellent rooms and apartments for fine fruit brandies. The French brasserie has sections that PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh
both short and long-term stays. The Potsdamer Platz hotel loca- were actually sent over and rebuilt at the Ritz. The English
Grand Esplanade D-4, Lützowufer 15, TG, MNollendor- tion has great views over Tiergarten park and hosts the top-notch tea lounge remains a favoured tradition but the (second) flat Swissôtel Berlin C-4, Augsburger Str. 44, CB,
fpl., tel. 25 47 80, fax 254 78 82 22, www.esplanade. Facil restaurant and Qiu lounge; the Friedrichstrasse Mandala screen TV in every bathroom is a newer addition for the hotel. MKurfürstendamm, tel. 22 01 00, fax 220 10 22 22,
de. Discover the popular Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, a Suites are close to the action in the heart of the city. Q167 rooms An executive lounge, gourmet dining, ballroom and conference emailus.berlin@swissotel.com, www.swissotel-berlin.
completely renovated and modern design hotel conveniently (166 suites €130 - 335). Also at Friedrichstraße 185-190 (tel. 20 facilities, health club and other superlative services complete com. Perfect for the busy business person, the Swissôtel
located in between the cosmopolitan Kurfürstendamm and 29 20). Breakfast €21. PHARFLKD hhhhh this gilt-edged hotel. Q302 rooms (singles €250 - 360, also pampers those looking to idle in understated luxury.
the Potsdamer Platz, right next to Berlin’s Central Park the doubles €280 - 440, 40 suites €330 - 5000). Breakfast €28. Every room has a Lavazza espresso machine and suites are
Tiergarten. The hotel is just steps away from the KaDeWe, Maritim proArte F-3, Friedrichstr. 151, MI, MFriedrich- PTHARUFLGKDC hhhhh cranking with Bang & Olufsen stereos. When you’re done play-
the New National Gallery and the Sony Center. Arrive at the str., tel. 203 35, fax 20 33 42 09, info.bpa@maritim.de, ing in your room, downtown western Berlin beckons. Q316
glass-covered atrium and enter a world of stylish ambiance and www.maritim.de. Part of the last private German chain of Savoy Berlin C-4, Fasanenstr. 9-10, CB, MZoologis- rooms (219 singles €160 - 310, 219 doubles €160 - 310,
perfect service. Enjoy the view of an illuminated water wall while hotels, the Maritim is equipped with a huge conference centre, cher Garten, tel. 31 10 30, fax 31 10 33 33, info@hotel- 14 suites €310 - 480, 11 junior suite €260 - 410). Breakfast
taking a break at the Terrace Restaurant or enjoy a cocktail at swimming pool, sauna and fitness area, shops, restaurants, savoy.com, www.hotel-savoy.com. Utterly un-Berlin, this 21€. PHARFLGD hhhhh
the legendary Harry’s New York Bar with Live Entertainment black amethyst bathrooms and W-LAN throughout. Each floor stylish Cuban-flavoured abode made Latin-music lover David
every night. Work out at the Triangle Health & Spa, jog through has been named after and decorated by a different Berlin artist Byrne a happy guest. Who knows who you’ll trade smoke rings
the Tiergarten, Berlin´s Central Park or rent a bicycle directly of the Young Savages school, and indeed it’s the modern art with in the cigar shop off the clubby Times Bar. Q125 rooms Apartments
at the hotel to discover Berlin. The main train station is only 8 you’ll remember after checking out. Q403 rooms (374 singles (45 singles €142 - 222, 62 doubles €152 - 232, triples €192 -
minutes away by taxi. The three Berlin airports can be reached €153 - 223, 374 doubles €172 - 242, 29 suites €300 - 1900). 272, 16 suites €202 - 292). ARFKD hhhh Whether you’re on a short trip or on a longer work as-
fast and easily. Q 394 rooms (singles/doubles from €99, 40 Breakfast €19. PHARUFLGKC hhhh signment, renting an apartment is often much cheaper
suites from €145). PHARFGKDC hhhhh Seehof A-4, Lietzensee-Ufer 11, CB, MMesse Nord, tel. than checking into a hotel.
Marriott E-4, Inge-Beisheim-Pl. 1, MI, MPotsdamer 32 00 20, fax 32 00 22 51, info@hotel-seehof-berlin.de,
Grand Hyatt E-4, Marlene-Dietrich-Pl. 2, MI, MPotsdamer Platz, tel. 22 00 00, fax 22 00 01 00, www.marriott. www.hotel-seehof-berlin.de. With many rooms overlooking HSH Apartments Mitte
Pl., tel. 25 53 12 34, fax 25 53 12 35, berlin@hyatt.de, com. Ten floors of superb rooms, conference facilities and a beautiful lake and park, and located between the Trade Fair E-2/3, Invalidenstr. 32-33,
www.berlin.grand.hyatt.com. Part of the mini-city at Pots- suites (including the Capital Suite with dining room, piano and Zoologischer Garten, this is a good place to settle if your MZinnowitzer Str., tel. 24
damer Platz, the Grand Hyatt has its own architecture guide and and entourage annex room). The lobby has a 3 tonne black business is in western Berlin. Decoration varies from classical 04 91 00, fax 24 04 91 01,
might just be the coolest hotel in Berlin, arranged according to granite globe spinning serenely on a watery base and the to glam, rooms have large beds with silver/gold gleaming bed- stay@hsh-mitte.de, www.
ancient Feng-Shui principles. Perks in the large rooms include copper facade of one wall plays an unearthly light show. A well- posts, blue carpets and brown bathrooms with bathtubs. Both home-suite-home.de. The
books, broadband internet access, and free fruit and mineral ness centre, classic Art Deco NY bar and grill and executive the pleasant terrace and the small indoor pool overlook the 42 spacious apartments on
water. Q342 rooms (342 singles €220 - 235, 342 doubles amenities round out one of Berlin’s newest and finest hotels. lake. Q75 rooms (singles €105 - 280, doubles €125 - 195, offer for short and long-term stays are comfortable and
€265 - 280, 14 triples €385 - 400, 5 grand suites €505 - 520, 5 Q379 rooms (350 singles €159 - 219, 350 doubles €159 - 1 suite €215 - 275). PHALGKC hhhh well-equipped, with a kitchen and living room and sleep-
grand executive suites €870 - 885, 2 presidential suites €2520 - 219, 9 suites €350 - 1200, 80 executive room €199 - 259). ing 1-4 people. Some apartments have balconies and
3335). PHARUFLEGKDC hhhhh Breakfast €22. PHAFLGKDC hhhhh Sofitel Berlin Gendarmenmarkt F-3, Charlottenstr. there is a courtyard garden where you can enjoy breakfast
50 - 52, MI, MFranzösische Str., tel. 20 37 50, fax 20 37 in summer. Guests can use the sauna and fitness room
Hilton F-2, Mohrenstr. 30, MI, MStadtmitte, tel. 202 Palace D-4, Budapester Str. 45, CB, MZoologischer 51 00, H5342@accor.com, www.sofitel.com. The success at no extra cost. Q 42 rooms (singles €98-195, doubles
30, fax 20 23 42 69, info.berlin@hilton.com, www.hilton. Garten, tel. 250 20, fax 25 02 11 19, hotel@palace.de, of this merger between sleek, modern design and 1980s East €115-245, 3-4 bed rooms on request, prices lower for
com. Maybe it’s the excellent breakfast and not the privileged www.palace.de. Joining the shopaholics shuttling from the German grandeur is best seen in the impressive banquet/ long stays). TAUFLGBDW hhhh
view on Gendarmenmarkt that keeps guests coming back. Europa Center next door, sightseers ogling the zoo across the conference hall, where GDR columns and chandeliers meet a
Like the living room your parents used only when guests came street, and gourmands feasting at the First Floor restaurant post-modern light-emitting floor. The fabulous top-floor fitness HSH Apar tments
over, these rooms have a formal air. The location is perfect are guests schmoozing in the banquet and conference rooms and sauna area with great views of the Gendarmenmarkt monu- Wilmersdorf AAAAA
for attending summer concerts on the square and Mitte at- that include Tai-Ping carpets, oak paneling, and fireplaces. ments, the huge buffet breakfast in the light-filled atrium and the C-5, Bundesallee 201-
tractions are so close you can’t use long walks as an excuse The staidly furnished rooms are large. Q239 rooms (59 in-house Aigner restaurant compensate for the small rooms, 203, CH, MGüntzelstr.,
for indulging in the exotic spa treatments. Q589 rooms singles €200 - 300, 191 doubles €225 - 325, 32 suites €325 which use smart tricks, like rolling doors, to use the available tel. 236 23 68 55, fax
(562 singles €144 - 309, 553 doubles €144 - 329, 27 suites - 2150). PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh space as efficiently as possible. Q92 rooms (29 singles €175 236 23 68 66, stay@
€289 - 930, 1 presidential suite €910 - 930). Breakfast €22. - 270, 41 doubles €190 - 285, suites €320 - 750). Breakfast hsh-wilmersdorf.de, www.home-suite-home.de. A
ACDEFGHKLPRU hhhhh Radisson SAS G-3, Karl-Liebknecht- €15-25. PHARUFLGKD hhhhh short distance from the business, entertainment and
Str. 3, MHackescher Markt, tel. 23 82 Ku´Damm shoppingmile districts in western Berlin, these
InterContinental D-4, Budapester Str. 2, MI, MZoolo- 80, fax 238 28 10, info.berlin@radis- Sofitel Berlin Schweizerhof D-4, Budapester Str. comfortable and spacious apartments have a kitchen,
gischer Garten, tel. 260 20, fax 26 02 26 00, berlin@ sonsas.com, www.berlin.radissonsas. 25, MI, MWittenbergpl., tel. 269 60, fax 26 96 10 00, optional separate bedrooms and and free wifi throughout.
interconti.com, www.interconti.com. The stretch it’s on is com. Perfectly located on the river Spree H5347@accor.com, www.schweizerhof.com. Business Breakfast is included, and guests can make use of the
a yawn, but this West Berlin stalwart has been keeping up with and opposite the Berliner Dom. The high- people, Lufthansa flight crews and conference visitors are self-service laundry and, at a fee, the shopping and
the times. The excellent restaurant Hugos has been relocated light of the lobby is the Aqua Dom, the well cared for here. All the 26sqm rooms are fitted out with babysitting services. Q20 rooms (singles €98 - 165,
to the 14th floor for a stunning view, east-wing rooms have been world’s largest cylindrical aquarium boast- modern furniture in bright colours, contemporary art and doubl es €118 - 219, apar tm en ts €185 - 390).
recast into minimalist abodes with furnishings you can rear- ing 2,500 tropical fish in one million litres bathrooms with bathtubs. The Xxenia restaurant serves TAGW
range through swivel action, and the spa has been revamped of salt water. 427 modern rooms and new-German cuisine. Fully renovated in 1999, the Dorint is

Berlin Plaza C-4, Knesebeckstr. 63, MUhlandstr., Hecker’s C-4, Grolmanstr. 35, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 889 western Berlin and the nearby Ku’Damm shopping mile.
Astoria tel. 88 41 30, fax 88 41 37 54, info@plazahotel.de, 00, fax 889 02 60, info@heckers-hotel.de, www.heckers- Decorated in flamboyant by Italian artists, the hotel has spa-
www.plazahotel.de. The Berlin Plaza was renovated in hotel.de. A superbly swank place - from the entrance next cious standard and comfort rooms with terracotta tiles,
Astoria C-4, Fasanen- 2006 and offers elegantly simple rooms, equipped with all to the steelblue bar to the spacious double rooms, this hotel cherry wood furniture, desks and wifi, and a bright top-floor
str. 2, tel. 312 40 67, modern conveniences, such as allergy-free bedlinen and breathes subtle class. The three beautiful suites are the pride Mediterranean-style breakfast room. Q36 rooms (singles
info@hotelastoria.de, free wi-fi. Guests can enjoy German cuisine in the Knese of the management, each with a different design (Bauhaus, €115 - 150, doubles €140 - 175). TALGBKW
w w w.hotelastoria.de. restaurant downstairs. Just off the Kurfürstendamm, the Tuscany and Colonial), wooden floors, large balconies, walk-in
One of the best hotels hotel is a short walk from west Berlin’s main attractions closets and marble bathrooms complete with TV screens next Ku’Damm 101 B-4, Kur fürstendamm 101, CB,
in town - not for stars or and major public transport links. Q131 rooms (singles to the mirror. Add the location near Savignyplatz, and you’re set MAdenauerpl., tel. 520 05 50, fax 520 05 55 55, info@
underground parking, but €80 - 150, doubles €79 - 180, triples €105 - 200). for a nice stay. Q69 rooms (21 singles €100 - 150, 43 doubles kudamm101.com, www.kudamm101.com. Modern and
for those most important HLGKW €100 - 170, 3 suites €300 - 350, 2 junior suite €200 - 230). stylish, every room is furnished with designer chairs, and a rub-
factors in the hospitality Breakfast €15. PHARULGK hhhh ber toy peers back at you from the white-tiled bathroom meant
industry, service and staff, Best Western President D-4, An der Urania 16 - 18, to emulate the Paris metro. Furnishings echo the 1950s and
both of which are excel- MWittenbergpl., tel. 21 90 30, fax 218 61 20, presi- Hollywood Media Hotel C-4, Kurfürstendamm 202, 70s, while 21st century, bi-colour rubber flooring is underfoot.
lent and consistently get dent@cca-hotels.de, www.cca-hotels.de. Wireless LAN CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 88 91 00, fax 88 91 02 80, info@ Business travellers will appreciate the high speed wireless
rave reviews from guests. cards, huge leather reclining chairs, cosmetic tables, and an filmhotel.de, www.filmhotel.de. Owned by octogenarian film LAN access and the proximity to the convention centre, while
The rooms are spacious, old-time clubby lounge make this a smart choice for business producer Artur Brauner (Bridge Over the River Kwai), this hotel is everyone will like the sunny seventh-floor breakfast room.
newly renovated and come travellers. Hotel with restaurant, bar, fitness centre, parking nondiscriminating in its poster selections (Arnold Schwarzeneg- Q170 rooms (34 singles €101 - 161, 136 doubles €118 -
equipped with bath and/or shower and include a good garage and multifunctional meeting rooms with air condition. ger and the Muppets share one area), but rooms named after 178). Breakfast €13. PHARULGBD hhh
breakfast. Set near the Kurfürstendamm and Berlin Zoo, Located next to Kurfürstendamm and KaDeWe, not far from film stars from the world over are kindly sedate with just one
it’s a good base for expeditions into town, and Astoria the fairgrounds. Connections to all three Berlin airports and headshot and bio on the wall. What’s most like Hollywood is Luisenhof H-4, Köpenicker Str. 92, MI, MMaerkisches
offers a variety of packages so you can combine a stay train station „Zoologischer Garten” are excellent. Q178 the 100-seat private screening room and the fact that every Museum/Heinrich-Heine-Str., tel. 241 59 06, fax 279
with a visit to Berlin with a guided walk, boat tour or a rooms (25 singles €79 - 155, 153 doubles €96 - 183, 3 room has air-conditioning, a rarity in Berlin. Q185 rooms (134 29 83, info@luisenhof.de, www.luisenhof.de. From the
trip to Madame Tussauds or the zoo. For dinner options, suites €189 - 305, junior suite). Breakfast €14. PHAR singles €85 - 120, 134 doubles €99 - 130, 21 apartments powder blue colour scheme to the unusually quiet location,
look no further than the nearby Knese restaurant. Q32 FGKD hhhh €150 - 172). PARULGD hhhh this building, built in 1822, is an ideal retreat for the business
rooms (singles €89 - 160, doubles €126 - 190, triples traveller. Immaculate rooms have showers, minibars, and
€136 - 210, suites €146 - 220). Bleibtreu C-4, Bleibtreustr. 31, CB, MUhlandstr., HSH Hotel Albergo - Part- safes, but internet connection is still limited to modem use.
tel. 88 47 40, fax 88 47 44 44, info@bleibtreu.com, ner of SORAT Hotels **** A business plus is the conference room lined with windows.
www.bleibtreu.com. It’s hard to tell the hip guests from B-5, Hohenzollerndamm 33, In less than five minutes you can reach either the U-Bahn
The Regent Berlin F-3, Charlottenstr. 49, MI, MFran- the hip neighbours that share the deli and café fronting tel. 86 88 90, fax 86 88 91 03, or a green lawn opposite the Märkisches Museum and fac-
zösische Str., tel. 203 38, fax 20 33 61 19, www. boutique-lined Bleibtreustraße. The design hotel’s rooms stay@hsh-albergo.de, www. ing the Spree River. Tourists are just beyond in the historic
theregentberlin.com. Within the luxurious digs of the former operate by remote-controlled amenities but are decorated home-suite-home.de. Once a Nikolaiviertel, but Luisenstadt feels much more authentic
Four Seasons hotel, the Regent would be stating a truth if it with natural fabrics and light tones. If only we could all Russian Orthodox cathedral with and old. Q27 rooms (8 singles €89 - 140, 18 doubles
proclaimed from one of its “Juliet” balconies: “That which they live in such an airy and stylish apartment building. Q60 onion domes until refurbishment in 1938, the corner building €109 - 189, 3 triples €124 - 224, 1 junior suite €150 - 250).
call a rose, by any other name would smell as sweet.” Will the rooms (15 singles €115 - 157, 45 doubles €125 - 182). that now holds the Albergo is a good base for exploring HARLGK hhhh
Hollywood celebrities that frequently stayed here (especially ARGK
during February’s film festival) recognize Shakespeare’s lines?
Nothing that drew A-list guests has changed. The warm public D.O.M.I.C.I.L. B-4, Kantstr. 111a, CB, MWilmersdorfer
spaces gleam with marble and plush guest rooms come Str., tel. 32 90 30, fax 32 90 32 99, info@hotel-domicil-
with DVDs and even flatscreen TVs in the bathroom. Q195 berlin.de, www.hotel-domicil-berlin.de. Warm Mediter-
rooms (singles €230 - 360, doubles €260 - 395, suites ranean colours and pinewood are used in D.O.M.I.C.I.L.’s
€360 - 1950, presidential suite €2950 - 3500). Breakfast modernly outfitted rooms. Continuing the theme, the hotel is
€29. PHARUFLGKD hhhhh decorated with stone basrelief art hewn from the Pyrenees.
Breakfast can be had on the rooftop restaurant’s terrace
Westin Grand F-3, Friedrichstraße 158-164, MI, overlooking western Berlin. Q70 rooms (singles €118 - 143,
MFriedrichstr., tel. 202 70, fax 20 27 33 62, info@westin- doubles €154 - 184, suites €204, apartments €138 - 204).
grand.com, www.westin.com/berlin. Built in GDR times for HARGB hhhh
Party bigwigs but now completely overhauled, the Westin is a
classically-furnished delux hotel in an enviably good location. Grosser Kurfürst G-4, Neue Roßstraße 11-12, MI,
www.precisehotels.com
From the huge atrium hall (with a copy of the Adlon’s marble MMärkisches Museum, tel. 24 60 08 43, fax 24 60 03
staircase), the round pool, the copyrighted Heavenly Beds and 00, www.deraghotels.de. Coin-op laundry, kitchenettes,
the upmarket restaurant to the sumptous suites with butler W-LAN Internet access, discounts for longer stays and the
service, this place breathes quality. Q358 rooms (25 singles U2 line around the corner make this a great pad for anyone
€136 - 350, 273 doubles €136 - 375, suites €379 - 930, 15 who is alternatively on the go, and stuck inside. The atrium
junior suites €279 - 565, 1 presidential suite €986 - 1930). lobby impresses with exposed hallways and a Babelsberg
Breakfast €23. PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh film studio prop: Berlin’s Great Elector (1620-1688) rears
out of a wall on horseback. Ayurvedic treatments, sauna, and
steambath are on site. Q144 rooms (123 singles €130 -
€150-200 195, 123 doubles €150 - 260, 21 apartments €130 - 300).
Artist Hotel Riverside F-3, Friedrichstr. 106, MI, (Apartments: Breakfast €12). ARUFKD hhhh
www.myershotel.de
MFriedrichstr., tel. 28 49 00, fax 284 90 49, riverside@
tolles-hotel.de, www.great-hotel.de. Not only do they have Hackescher Markt G-3, Grosse Präsidentenstr. 8, MI,
the best website name in Germany and a fabulous location, MHackescher Markt, tel. 28 00 30, fax 28 00 31 11,
the Riverside is also one of the few hotels in Berlin with a view info@hackescher-markt.com, www.hotel-hackescher-
over the often-overlooked Spree river. A shabby, cosy place on markt.de. After a night of bar-hopping in Mitte, you’ll wish
the third floor of a GDR-era building (the lounge used to be a that this small hotel on a quiet street was your crash pad.
dodgy lapdancing bar), rooms have been furnished with flea- Rooms are an odd mix of furnishings, including English wicker
market antiques, old theatre props and 1980s telephones. and Middle Eastern accents, but it’s a lovely spot all the same.
Q20 rooms (19 singles €70 - 140, 19 doubles €90 - 200, Q31 rooms (21 singles €120 - 180, 7 doubles €130 - 180,
triples €110 - 140). Breakfast €9. ARLG 3 suites €175 - 205). ALG hhhh

Mark C-4, Meinekestr. 18-19, CB, MKurfürstendamm, Riehmers Hofgarten F-5, Yorckstr. 83, KB, MMehring-
tel. 88 00 28 02, fax 88 00 28 04, info@markhotel.de, damm, tel. 78 09 88 00, fax 78 09 88 08, info@riehmers- Mercure Hotel Berlin an der Charité F-2, In-
www.markhotel.de. This comfortable hotel sports a lobby hofgarten.de, www.riehmers-hofgarten.de. This grand validenstr. 38, MI, MZinnowitzer Str., tel. 30 82 60,
where dated-looking mirrored columns and an egg-carton-like dame of a 19th-century apartment building maintains her classy fax 30 82 61 00, h5341@accor.com, www.mercure.
drop ceiling meets the homey garden-like look of woodwork composure while the funky shops and gay nightlife unfurl around com. Pretty slick for a three star, Charité is kitted out in
painted light green. The modern rooms are spacious all have the corner on Mehringdamm. She’s unfussy and stylish and near trendy cream and brown colours, and oozes subtle style.
a bathroom with showers and a fresh flower bloom. The fam- the popular Bergmannstraße drag. On a balmy evening, join the Rooms are light and functionally designed; the more
ily rooms are a great; the two bedrooms are well separated Kreuzberg couples making the pilgrimage to the top of Viktoria- luxury comfort class rooms come with wine and water.
from one another, and children under 17 stay free. Guests in park. Q22 rooms (2 singles €98 - 108, 20 doubles €123 - 163, From the hotel it’s just a short hop by metro to Friedrich-
the business class rooms have a separate breakfast room 20 triples €143 - 183). ARUGK hhh straße station. Q246 rooms (246 singles €77 - 106, 246
to hobnob in. The location is ideal with the Hard Rock Café, doubles €86 - 126). PHARULGK hhh
Diekmann restaurant, EasyInternet and Dunkin’ Donuts on
the block. Q233 rooms (14 singles €79 - 195, doubles Airport hotels
€89 - 195). PRG Mercure Airport Hotel Berlin Tegel B-1, Kurt-Schu- Lodge Berlin J-4, Gabriel-Max-Str. 2, FH, MFrankfurter
macher-Damm 202, tel. 410 60, fax 410 67 00, H0791@ Tor, tel. 22 43 96 79/0163 33 30 570, contact@lodge-
Mark Apart C-4, Lietzenburger Str. 82, CB, MUhland- accor-hotels.com, www.mercure.com. This functional and berlin.de, www.lodge-berlin.de. To feel the real vibe of Berlin,
str., tel. 88 91 20/88 91 21 51, info@markaparthotel. comfortable hotel is the only option close to Tegel airport. head for these furnished apartments in a typical East Berlin
de, www.markaparthotel.de. This building once held pri- The well-insulated doubles all have combined shower/baths. building right in the heart of Friedrichshain’s party-zone. The two
vate apartments, but there are no kitchenettes. Your minibar Children under 16 sleep for free. The free shuttle bus can room apartments (each one large, one small) can be booked
does greet you with a free beer, mineral water and softdrinks. be ordered from the airport information desk or by using for up to 7 persons per apartment or share the kitchen and
Differences from its sister hotel, the Mark, are the larger the free hotel telephone between gates N°7 and 8. Q184 bathroom when only one room is rented out separately. Bike
rooms (all with tubs), a parking lot, and the fact that there is rooms (singles €69 - 199, doubles €69 - 199). Breakfast €16. rental, DVD player, internet available. Find it near the corner of
no bar or restaurant (apart from the breakfast room). Room PHARUFLGKDC hhh Wühlischstrasse, just east of Simon-Dach-Strasse. Q2 rooms
balconies overlooking Lietzenburger Strasse will let in a lot
€75-150 (singles €35 - 75, doubles €45 - 75, triples €85 - 125).
of traffic sound; better relax on the shared terrace towards
the back. Q96 rooms (5 singles €79 - 195, 91 doubles Motel One G-4, Prinzenstr. 40, MMoritzpl., tel. 70 07 Apartments
€89 - 195). ALG 98 00, www.motel-one.com. Basic but cheap as chips. ackselhaus H-2, Belforter Str. 21, PB, MSenefelder Platz, Hostels
A budget hotel with decent standards, the rooms and the tel. 44 33 76 33, fax 441 61 16, info@ackselhaus.de, www. Friedrichshain I-4, Warschauer Str. 57, FH, MWarschauer
Myer’s H-2, Metzer Str. 26, PB, MSenefelder Platz, prices are standard, and check-in outside regular reception ackselhaus.de. An In Your Pocket favourite, acksel’s fully equipped Str., tel. 97 00 20 30, fax 97 00 20 31, info@bhb-friedrichshain.
tel. 44 01 40, fax 44 01 41 04, info@myershotel.de, hours is by computer. Excellent if you’re simply looking for a apartments with kitchens are spacious, equipped with WLAN, and com, www.home-from-home.com. A good budget option, a little
www.myershotel.de. Entered from a quiet courtyard, place to crash in style. Breakfast is €5 extra. Q180 rooms each have been individually theme-designed (Africa, Lover’s Nest farther out of town but still close to public transport and the funkier
Myer’s is an upmarket private hotel catering to individual (singles €49, doubles €55). and Water) with antiques and beautiful colours. Throw in the low parts of the city. All the rooms in this quiet courtyard house are well
tourists and business travellers. Nearly all classically fur- prices, delicious mattresses, the lush garden, the location between equipped with TV, desk and lounge plus a kitchen on every floor.
nished rooms overlook the courtyard garden. The singles Park Inn G-3, Alexanderpl., MI, MAlexanderpl., tel. 238 the Kollwitzstraße bars and Mitte, and you’ll keep coming back for A buffet breakfast is included. Q (4 singles €35 - 49, 6 doubles
are small, but the double rooms offer adequate space. On 90, fax 23 89 43 05, reservations.berlin@rezidorparkinn. more. Q16 rooms (25 apartments €66 - 165). ARG €40 - 70, 8 triples €45 - 105). ARUL
the ground floor, a tearoom opens up to the pleasant terrace com, www.parkinn.com. In terms of transportation op-
and garden. Q41 rooms (8 singles €85 - 140, 33 doubles tions, this might be Berlin’s most central hotel and the best
€110 - 175). HARG choice for the direction-impaired. Germany’s third-largest
hotel rises 40 stories and sits at the transportation hub
Propeller Island City Lodge B-4/5, Albrecht-Achilles- of desolate Alexanderplatz. Set your sights further from
Str. 58, WD, MAdenauerpl., tel. 891 90 16, fax 892 87 your room. The new Business Class category rooms are
21, reservierung@propeller-island.de, www.propeller- newly renovated and all are stocked with a coffeemaker and
island.de. With utterly individually decorated rooms, this ironing board. Q1006 rooms (506 singles €90 - 125, 478
handcrafted hotel by musician Lars Stroschen is more like doubles €90 - 125, 12 suites €130 - 185). Breakfast €15.
Fantasy Island. Fetishists of all sorts can find their niches in POARFGKD hhhh
rooms like the Space Cube, Mirror Room, Two Lions, Forest,
Temple, Electric Wallpaper, Nudes, or Upside Down. Do check Park Plaza I-2, Storkower Str. 162, PB, MLandsberger
the website before making a booking. Q32 rooms (4 singles Allee, tel. 42 18 10, fax 42 18 11 11, www.parkplaza.
€65 - 180, 28 doubles €90 - 195). Breakfast €7. AG com. The neighborhood surrounding this business-oriented
hotel in the Forum Landsberger Allee is a yawn, but you will
Sylter Hof D-3, Kurfürstenstr. 114, SB, MWittenberg- sleep well in rooms where curves and angles in the attractive
pl., tel. 212 00, fax 214 28 26, info@sylterhof-berlin. furnishings declare themselves modern. Five lines of Berlin’s
de, www.sylterhof-berlin.de. Sylt may be a skinny German perfectly efficient electric street car (or tram) system stop
island in the North Sea, but these suites in an 18-story high- right outside and will whisk you to the heart of shopping and
rise are fat. For the cost of a normal room in Berlin, you get nightlife in Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg in minutes. There’s also
a fully equipped kitchen too (a supermarket is across the an S-Bahn station. A five minute jog brings you to the lovely
street) and rates go down for longer stays. Q160 rooms Friedrichshain park. Q155 rooms (1 single €77 - 86, 154
(80 singles €69 - 120, 40 doubles €99 - 180, 40 suites doubles €92 - 102). PARLGKD
€129 - 210). AGH hhh
Q! C-4, Knesebeckstr. 67, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 810
Villa Kastania G-2, Kastanienallee 20, CB, MTheodor- 06 60, fax 810 06 66 66, q-berlin@loock-hotels.com,
Heuss-Pl., tel. 300 00 20, fax 30 00 02 10, info@vil- www.loock-hotels.com. The quirk of the newest design
lakastania.com, www.villakastania.com. A dazzling small hotel off Kurfürstendamm is the conjoined bathtubs and bed
hotel near the trade fair, with spacious rooms in diverse styles, frames. Only some rooms have this feature, so request one
each with a balcony overlooking the chestnut trees surround- if you’ve always wanted to crawl out of bed directly into the
ing the building. Naming itself an ‘art and business hotel,’ it’s bath. Fun, kitschy freebies are the “Anatomicals” from the
certainly lush, with sumptuous decoration and extras such UK that include condom packs and energy patches. Q77
as sauna, pool and beauty centre. Q40 rooms (4 singles rooms (72 singles €130 - 160, 72 doubles €150 - 180, 4
€120 - 150, 36 doubles €150 - 185, grand suite €250 - 270). studios €200 - 350, 1 penthouse €300 - 420). Breakfast
Breakfast €11. PHARUFLGKDC hhhh €18. PHARFGKDS hhhh

22 RESTAURANTS IN MITTE RESTAURANTS IN MITTE 23
Sophieneck G-2/3, Große

Expense account diners could probably eat their way
through the city’s best restaurants on a two-week stay. Symbol key Beer houses Hamburger Straße 37,
VAU, Vivo, Hugos, Die Quadriga, and First Floor all have Georgbräu G-3, Spreeufer 4, MI, MKlosterstr., tel. 242 MWeinmeister Straße, tel.
German chefs at the helm, though homage to France and P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted 42 44, www.georgbraeu.de. With a terrace overlooking the 283 40 65, www.sophieneck-
the Mediterranean work their way onto the menus. Neigh- E Live music S Take away river and flanked by a dramatic statue of St. George slaying berlin.de. A favourite of locals
bourhood restaurants and cafés often serve three meals a dragon (for no apparent reason), the Georgbräu is a merry, and tourists alike, Sophieneck is
a day and meld into bars in the later hours. T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled tourist-orientated brewery serving great beer. The menu lists one of the most charming cafés
This chapter reviews the restaurants in Mitte (F/G-2) many of G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking wonderful local food, with things like Big Berlin Balls, which we’re in Mitte. Located near Hackescher Markt since the revamp of
which are concentrated around upmarket Gendarmenmarkt sure to try... next time. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (€5-11). B the district in 1984, it has resisted trendification, staying true
and the nightlife area on, north and east of Oranienburger O Casino M Nearest S/U-Bahn station to its warm mishmash décor of art nouveau and poster art.
Straße. Turn to p.32 for restaurants in the Potsdamer Platz
area, and in western Berlin, Kreuzberg, Prenzlauer Berg and
R Internet W Wi-Fi connection Cafés The menu offers delicious Central European fare, accompanied
by an international wine list. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.
Friedrichshain (see p.5 for more about Berlin’s districts). Adam’s Media Cafe F-3, Friedrichstr. 94, MI,
Manngo G-2, Mulackstr. 29,
MFriedrichstr., tel. 206 14 44 00, http://www.opel.de/
Fast food
American MI, MWeinmeisterstr., tel.
experience/treffpunkt/berlin/index.act. A restaurant,
bar and internet café with an Opel showroom slipped in at the 24 Hours G-2, Rosenthaler Str. 43, MI, MWeinmeis-
Play Off E/F-4, Alte Potsdamer Str. 7 (Postdamer Platz 28 04 05 58, www.manngo. back. Named after the manufacturer’s founder (indeed, Adam terstr., tel. 27 59 40 29. If the person next to you on the
Arkaden), MPotsdamer Platz, tel. 25 29 99 99, www.play-off. de. Recently expanded and still Opel), this place offers breakfast and lunch too. The large night bus from Hackescher Markt reeks of fried food and
tv. An American sports bar and restaurant in the style of the 1950s, packing them in is Manngo, the windows offer good views of the crowds outside. QOpen onions, chances are he made a pitstop here. Opposite the
when times were good, and when we all aspired to the American deliciously enticing Vietnamese 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. Hackesche Höfe, this place has got location, location, location
way of life. You can expect generous portions of American snacks wi th a small bu t p er fe c tl y as well as French fries, Currywurst and Döner kebab plates.
and food, including a huge hamburger, and drop by on Mondays formed menu. Curr y, satay, Assel F/G-3, Oranienburgerstr. 21, MI, MOranienburger Q Open 24hrs. (€2-5).
for the spare ribs night. Sports events, American and others, are spring rolls and soups for €5 a plate, while fresh juices and Str., tel. 281 20 56. The reason that German students
displayed on screens and if you’re lucky you’ll meet the chain’s own Saigon beer also up the ante. Friendly staff, authentic cuisine can take up to 10 years to finish university must be their Curry 36 F-5, Mehringdamm 36, KB, MMehringdamm.
cheerleader team. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:30 - 01:00. and low prices - a match made in culinary heaven. QOpen frequenting of bars like Assel. A well-known bar-cum-gallery, it If you want to eat Currywurst the proper Berlin way, you’ll order
12:00 - 24:00, Sat 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€5.50). has well-priced bar food and above all a scruffy bohemian feel yours here boiled and naked. It looks a little pale in comparison
Asian TANB to it. In addition to all that, Mr. Funny wrote the menu, which
lists breakfasts named existentialist (black coffee, cigarette),
to the ones with their pink skins on, but you might earn an iota of
respect from the hard-boiled Fraus who work the stand. Other
Kamala F-3, Oranienburger Str. 69, MI, MOranienburger No odle Kitchen G-3, hangover (espresso, aspirin, glass of water) and diet (glass proletarian Berlin specialities you can take to the stand-up
Tor, tel. 283 27 97, www.kamala-thaifood.de. Respectable Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3, of water, SlimFast). QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. B outdoor tables are the fried burgers, Boulette. QOpen 09:00
Thai cuisine is served in a colonial atmosphere, where heavy, dark tel. 238 28 34 64, fax - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 11:00 - 04:00. (€2-4).
wood tables are adorned with woven placements, orchids and tall 238 28 10, info@noodle- Cum Laude F-3, Universitäts Str, MI, MFriedrichstr., tel.
candles. The Tom Yam Gai soup is crowded with chicken and piping kitchen-berlin.de, w w w. 208 28 83, www.cum-laude.info. To escape the tourists on Döner Imbiss F-5, Gneisenaustr. 85 (corner Zossener
hot, and the curries are rich and buttery. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, noodlekitchen-berlin.de. Unter den Linden, duck into the side of Humboldt University for Str), KB, MGneisenaustr., tel. 691 78 19. Chicken, not
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. (€7-15). AB A tas te of Asia in Mi t te. some quiet time with students and professors. Classical music lamb, is what’s making the rounds on the skewer here. Choose
There’s a choice of freshl y plays, the room is elegant with light lemon-coloured walls and from garlic, herb, or spicy sauce and various salad toppings
made sushi, noodle soups dark furniture and you’ll feel like a part of Berlin, even if you, as - it’s a bargain at under €2. One man behind the stand here
and wok dishes at fair pric- a Gäste, will pay a little more for your dish than the Studenten. speaks English, and if the delicious food wasn’t reason
es wi th a fast and uncom- The kitchen doesn’t get good scores, so stick to soups, the tap enough, his smile and friendly service would keep them com-
plicated ser vice - enou gh beer or coffee and house-made cake. QOpen 08:30 - 23:30, ing back anyway. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (€3-6).
reasons to return to th e Noodle Ki tch en. Smar t or Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.
casual, ever yb o d y gets togeth er a t lon g tabl es to Konnopkes Imbiss G-1, Schönhauser Allee 44a, PB,
philosophise abou t the different sauces - hot or spicy? Kaffeebank F-2, Unter den Linden 13-15, MI, MFriedrich- MEberswalder Str., tel. 442 77 65. The Ziervogel family
- in a trend y Asian ambience. There are a lot of deli- str., tel. 202 09 30. Get a free peek at the one-room gallery started selling their famous Wursts on October 4, 1930, a day
cious choices, so order a few dishes at the same time of the Deutsche Guggenheim while also refuelling with the that has unluckily come to coincide with International Animal
so ever ybod y can tr y ever y thing - that’s the right way cheapest cappuccino (€1.80) to be found on the grand bou- Day. This simple shack is a convenient stop for those spill-
to do i t and to have fun. From sushi and kushi yaki to levard. A tiny coffee bar in the gift shop serves caffeinated ing out of the Eberswalder Straße U-Bahn; the Imbiss is just
Singapore noodles, onl y original recipes are used - drinks, beer, small cakes and sandwiches. Just three glass- south underneath the tracks. To eat your Currywurst like a
au thentic, fresh and heal thy. I t never gets boring ob- topped tables with low, cushioned seats join the displays of true native, ask for it darmlos (without the intestine wrapping,
ser ving the open show ki tchen or watching the boats art books and merchandise. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Thu please). QOpen 06:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€3-6).
and ships passing by on the ri ver Spree in front of the 11:00 - 22:00. Closes during changes of exhibition.
b eau ti ful scener y of th e Berlin Cath edral. Q Open
12:00 - 23:00. Label 205 F-3, Friedrichstr. 68, MI, MStadtmitte, tel. 20
94 45 45, www.label205.de. A café literally at the bottom of
Austrian a huge pile of junk, on the lower level of the posh Quartier 205
shopping gallery. Live music is played here several afternoons
Brecht-Haus Kellerrestaurant F-2, Chausseestr. a week, varying from ‘light classic’ and jazz to shopper’s blues.
125, MI, MOranienbur ger Tor, tel. 282 38 43, For cheap cocktails visit the after work parties on Wednesdays.
w w w.brechtkeller.de. The recipes ser ved here are QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. PE
those of a busy Austrian actress making do wi th East
German ingredients, so though decent, i t’s not th e Operncafé F-3, Unter den Linden 5, MI, MFriedrichstr.,
Tafelspi tz (rump steak) that’s famous, bu t the spiri t tel. 20 26 83, www.opernpalais.de. The three Prussian
of th e place wh ere play wrigh t Ber th old Brech t and princesses who once lived in this palace would have loved
his actress wife Helene Weigel li ved. The small base- what the current owner has done to the place. Not only is a
ment cellar is full of famil y photographs and original selection of 40 to 50 cakes and pies available each day, but
set models of plays like Mother Courage. Also inside a complete renovation brought a rococo ambience and ceiling
is what could onl y be described as a romantic brick- paintings in the style of the early 19th century. The cakes are
lined lounge area. A wall separates a terrace from the made in-house and the best place to enjoy them is outdoors
cemeter y where the couple are buried. Q Open 18:00 on the terrace that seats 650 people. Lunch and snacks are
- 01:00. (€9-15). B served too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. B

24 RESTAURANTS IN MITTE
Margaux F-3, Unter den Linden 78 (entrance on Wil-
helmstr), MI, MUnter den Linden, tel. 22 65 26 11,
www.margaux-berlin.de. Rich cuisine by Chef Michael
Hoffmann at this Michelin-starred restaurant, which uses
only the best ingredients for a daily menu that is chosen
Pub and eatery in the historical centre of Berlin by quality of supplies. Fish are only line-caught, mostly in
the Atlantic off the coast of France, and legumes cater for Be amazed by the fascinating view of the Museum
vegetarian gourmands. Save room for the French cheese Island, while enjoying authentic dishes from our open
plate. Service is gracious, friendly, and professional with Mr. show kitchen: Indian delights from the Tandoor oven,
We offer Ingo Sperling, the award-winning maitre d’ recommending
dishes and wines from their selection of 700, with California
crispy crusts out of the wood oven or freshly grilled
fresh Napa Valley becoming a firm favourite. A good way to sample
the cuisine is the €35 three-course lunch or the six-course
meat and fish from the French rotisserie.
regional dinner for €95. Q Open 19:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (€18-
48). PAG h
Open daily from noon to 11 p.m.
www.heat-berlin.de
German Maxwell F-2, Bergstr. 22,
MI, MRosenthaler Pl., tel.
cuisine! 280 71 21. The restored red-
brick cour tyard of the Josty
Brewer y is th e come-on to
passers-by. The scents of nou-
Große Hamburger Straße 37 velle French and German cook-
ing and the mature, artsy-look-
10115 Berlin ing crowd nail the curious to a
Tel.: 0049(0) 30 283 40 65 seat. Dinner items include leg of Enjoy a great choice of freshly made sushi, satay and
lamb with Jerusalem artichoke
Fax: 0049(0) 30 285 99 860 and lime marinated guinea fowl kushiyaki skewers, noodle soups and wok dishes, all
with a mash of aubergine and at great prices with fast and efficient service. We only
mushrooms. QOpen 18:00 - serve original recipes ² authentic, fresh and healthy
E-mail: info@sophieneck-berlin.de 24:00. AB
www.sophieneck-berlin.de and we promise you an entertaining visit. Whether
Paris-Moskau E-3, Alt-Moabit 141, TG, MHauptbah- you choose to watch our chefs at work in the open
nhof/Lehrter Bahnhof, tel. 394 20 81, www.paris- kitchen or gaze at the passing boats and ships on the
Fine dining moskau.de. Many S-Bahn passengers assume this lonely ULYHU´6SUHHµLQIURQWRIWKHEHDXWLIXO Berlin Cathedral,
and unusual half-timber house from 1898 is related to the you will not be disappointed.
Borchardt F-3, Französische Str. 47, MI, MFranzösis- railroad, as it sits along the tracks that link Paris and Mos-
che Str., tel. 81886262. Borchardt didn’t have to invest cow. But the fine restaurant inside has more connections to
much to make a good first impression - the mere height of the Mediterranean. Dishes including lamb rack with roasted Open daily from noon to 11 p.m.
the ceiling and the building’s original tile floors whisper class artichokes and gnocchi. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00 (Mon to Fri), www.noodlekitchen-berlin.de
and luxury. The money and creative energy goes into the daily 18:00 - 23:30. (€20-25). A
kitchen, which comes up with a different menu each day to
keep its regular clientele surprised. Leave the pork to the VAU F-3, Jägerstr. 54/55, MI, MFranzösische Str.,
Germans, the beef dishes here are delectable. QOpen tel. 202 97 30, www.vau-berlin.de. It’s easy to spell and
12:00 - 24:00. (€20-30). A rhymes with wow, and the latter is the word-of-mouth that
has kept chef Kolja Kleeberg’s restaurant fully booked for
Fischers Fritz F-3, Charlottenstr. 49 (Regent Hotel), the past four years. Using many products from the Berlin
MI, MFranzösische Str., tel. 20 33 63 63, Fischersfritz. area, Michelin-starred Kleeberg follows his mentor Josef
berlin@rezidorregent.com, www.fischersfritzberlin. Viehhauser’s rule: never more than three products on a plate.
com. The restaurant’s name comes from a tongue-twister Q Open 12:00 - 14:30, 19:00 - 22:30. Closed Sunday. (€35-
and the light, fish-focused menu is for a very refined palate. 38). PARG h
Chef Chrisian Lohse has won several of the Michelin stars The Aqua Lounge is a worthy addition to Berlin's
nightlife. You will be amazed by the choice of drinks,
that appear none too oft in Germany. The German chef first
trained in Dijon and has since pleased gourmands such as French unrivalled cocktail creations and great music in this
those at The Dorchester in London and the Sultan of Brunei Café de France F-3, Unter den Linden 62-68, MI (Peu- brilliantly designed bar.
(as a private chef). The dining room has light woods, deep geot Avenue Berlin), MUnter den Linden, tel. 20 64 13
carpets and a fireplace. Q Open 6:30-11:30; 12:00 - 14:00; 91, www.peugeot-avenue.de. For stylishness, airiness and
18:30 - 23:00. PAG privacy, this red brasserie above the Peugeot car showroom is Every Thursday from 10 p.m. to 1.30 a.m.
a smart choice for a small business meeting. Designed by Yves Live Jazz music performed by
Lutter & Wegner F-3, Charlottenstr. 56, MI, MFranzösis- Taralon and Philippe Starck, the bistro hosts the Avenue Lounge New York, New York Duo & special guest
che Str., tel. 202 95 40, www.lutter-wegner-gendarmen- after-work party on the last Thursday of the month from 18:30-
markt.de. Classy, traditional, and with a link to the actor who put 23:00. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun & holidays 10:00 - 18:00,
the sparkle in German wine in 1811, this is the place to share a on World Cup match days 10:00 - 23:00. (€8-13). A Open daily from 8 p.m. onwards
bottle of Sekt before or after a concert at the Konzerthaus on www.aqualounge-berlin.de
Gendarmenmarkt. There’s a warren of rooms in which to carve
out a cosy niche. Germans know their roasts, and you can trust
the national committee that dubbed the Sauerbraten here the Berlin
best in Germany in 2003. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. Radisson SAS Hotel
The warm kitchen closes at 01:00 while the Weinstube serves telephone code is +49 30 Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 3, 10178 Berlin-Mitte
cold dishes until 03:00. (€16-22). AB
Telephone +49 (0)30 23828-0
www.berlin.radissonsas.com
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Mittmann’s G/H-3, Rungestr. 11, MI, MHeinrich-

German Heine-Str., tel. 279 35 02, www.mittmanns.de. Old
Alpenstueck F-2, Gartenstr. 9, MI, MNordbahnhof, tel.
21 75 16 46, info@alpenstueck.de, www.alpenstueck.
German advertising covers the brick walls of this old-style
Berlin restaurant that’s been here since before the fall of
Restaurant
de. Wiener Schnitzel with Schwabian potato salad mault-
aschen with Bavarian creme are just a few of the dishes avail-
able at Alpenstueck, a designer restaurant with a traditional
the Wall. Now there’s American license plates lining a ceiling
beam. The wait staff can make suggestions based on what
you’re in the mood for, and the kitchen does well with its Kalb
Maxwell
twist. Chef Peter Geissler prepares southern German and (veal) and fish dishes. The restaurant is on the small side, so
Austrian home cooking with fresh ingredients, changing the consider making a reservation. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Sat Bergstraße 22
menu every three days. A feast for the eyes and the palate. 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€8-16). NB Berlin-Mitte
QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. Open daily from 18:00
Mutter Hoppe G-3, Rathausstr. 21, MI, MAlexanderpl.,
Café Adler F-4, Friedrichstr. 206, KB, MKochstr., tel. 251 tel. 241 56 25, www.prostmahlzeit.de/mutterhoppe. tel: 280 71 21
89 65. It’s hard to believe a place near the tourist magnet of Head down the winding staircase into this restaurant in the www.mxwl.de
Checkpoint Charlie could be so authentic. The café used to have Nikolaiviertel district. You’ll find the space divided into cosy,
a prime view of the Wall, and its back room with tin ceiling keeps low-ceilinged nooks with upholstered banquettes and historic
a pre-war feel. Who knows how many fresh ingredients go into the photos and drawings on the painted walls. Heavy meat dishes Saturday nights. Visit on Sundays between 11:00 and 14:00 Zum Nussbaum G-3, Am Nussbaum 3, MI, MKloster-
amazingly tasty soups. Salads and daily specials are excellent too. are the meals to order here. The kitchen offers sides not for the famous Jazz-brunch with the Swing Dance Band str., tel. 242 30 95. What seems a charming old German
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. (€4-9). AGB served at other German restaurants, including green beans (€29.50 including a glass of Prosecco and coffee). QOpen restaurant is in fact a charming new German restaurant. The
wrapped in bacon. Make reservations; or try their sister 14:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. E legendary Under the Nut Tree Inn used to stand on a street
Habel Weinkultur F-3, Luisenstr. 19, MI, MFriedrichstr., restaurant Julchen Hoppe, a few doors further towards the on the island 200m to the southwest. When the war ravaged
tel. 28 09 84 84, www.wein-habel.de. Set in the arches under Spree. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. (€9-15). E Schwarzwaldstuben F-3, Tucholskystr. 48, MI, MO- area was rebuilt in the 1980s, the inn was reconstructed
the rumbling S-Bahn tracks and in an adjacent grand building, ranienburger Str., tel. 28 09 80 84. Bambi meets Berlin here. Most patrons don’t care an Ampelmann for authenticity,
this excellent ‘wine brasserie’ serves delicious German and Operntreff F-3, Unter den chic at the trendy Black Forest themed Schwarzwaldstuben, and tuck into the well-priced Berlin specialities with curious
international cuisine backed up by their shop offering a stunning Linden 5, MI, MFriedrich- which has a friendly atmosphere, bedraggled animal heads translations, such as ‘brown rolls with dripping.’ QOpen
selection of wines.QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (€9-19). AB str., tel. 20 26 83, www. mounted on the walls and heavy mix-matched furniture. 12:00 - 23:00. (€7-10). AB
opernpalais.de. The dance Regional treats include Maultaschen (ravioli-like pockets in
Hackescher Hof G-2, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41, MI, and cocktail bar inside the broth) and Jägerschnitzel, plus Eichbaum beer on tap. QOpen Zur Letzten Instanz G-3, Waisenstr. 14, MI, MKloster-
MHackescher Markt, tel. 283 52 93, www.hackescher- Opernpalais Unter den Linden 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (€5-13). B str., tel. 242 55 28, www.zurletzteninstanz.de. Berlin’s
hof.de. This spacious restaurant at an eye-catching position serves guests over 50 variet- oldest restaurant doesn’t lie on the tourist path, and maybe
within the Hackesche Höfe complex didn’t bother coming up ies of cocktails in a casual Ständige Vertretung F-3, Schiffbauerdamm 8, MI, that’s why German leaders bring visiting heads of state here
with its own name, nor does it seem to have invested any environment that’s steeped in MFriedrichstr., tel. 282 39 65, www.staev.de. Bonn when everything in Mitte is too noisy and crowded. Mikhail
energy in coming up with a good team in the kitchen. The food histor y. Apar t from various politicians and bureaucrats were not happy when they had Gorbachev visited in 1989, and Gerhard Schröder brought
is disappointing, so best stick to coffee and a snack. QOpen artistic programmes through- to move to Berlin. They sent their favorite Bonn hangout Jacques Chirac over for the Berlin specialities, including
07:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 03:00. (€6-17). AB out the week, you can dance to live music on Friday and (named after the West-German ‘embassy’ in the GDR) as Eisbein, in 2003. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€8
an advance scout. This laid-back politician’s meeting point - 13). ARGB
supplies the homesick with their beloved Kölsch beer and
Hospitality as Tradition Rhineland specialties (like Blutwurst and Saumagen), but
the menu has a selection of Berlin food as well. QOpen Indian
11:00 - 01:00. (€4-13). AB Aapka G-2, Kastanienallee 50, MRosenthaler Platz,
Culinary, Treffpunkt Berlin F-3, Mittelstr. 55, MI, MFriedrichstr.,
tel. 44 01 04 94, www.aapka.de. Located on a pretty
street corner near trendy Zionskirchplatz, Aapka offers
tel. 204 18 19. This smoky pub is one of the few simple healthy vegetarian, curry and grill dishes in a relaxed bar and
Art & Culture places with a neighbhourhood feel off Friedrichstr. The kitchen
turns out Berlin specialities and the bar stores a special snack
restaurant with outside seating. You can drop by for the daily
changing lunch menu and on Sunday join the young Prenzl’
in the Opernpalais too: “Sol Ei,” a boiled egg that’s been stored in salty water. Berg crowd for a relaxed brunch. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00,
It’s served with condiments and the friendly staff can help Sun 11:00 - 01:00.
Unter den Linden explain the ritual. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00,
Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (€7-13). N Mirchi F-2/3, Oranienburgerstr. 50, MI, MOranien-
burger Tor, tel. 28 44 44 82. Mirchi offers Indian and
Weihenstephaner G-3, Neue Promenade 5, MI, Singaporean fusion cuisine, tamed down to suit the German
MHackescher Markt, tel. 25 76 28 71. This is the one palette, but nevertheless pleasing. The Tageskarte lunch
eatery on the sunny square next to the Hackescher Markt menu (until 17:00) is especially attractive, with vegetarian,
train station that delivers a “hey, this is Germany!” experience. chicken and lamb options priced €4-7; in the evenings the
Part of the Wiehenstephaner brewery, the restaurant has selection gets wider and dearer. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
dirndel-clad waitresses who serve simple and satisfying Ba- Also at (H-3) Oranienstr. 204, KB, tel. 61 62 99 93. (€4-
varian specialities (like white sausages). The outdoor tables 20). AB
have typical blue-and-white checked tablecloths; inside, the
rooms are rustic but elegant. A singing zither musician sits in
the front room and jazz takes place in the back courtyard on International
Monday. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-14). AEB Alberts H-3, Karl-Marx-Allee 35, MI, MSchilling-
straße, tel. 24 72 72 50, www.alberts-berlin.com.
Zille-Stube G-3, Spreeufer 3, MI, MKlosterstr., tel. 242 A bustling, modern café, lounge bar, club and restaurant
0QFSOQBMBJT
VOUFSEFOMJOEFO
52 47, www.berlin-zillestube.de. The name is in homage
to Berlin artist Heinrich Zille, whose illustrations line the walls
above upholstered banquettes and wooden banisters. Domi-
with a large terrace that appeals to breakfasting singles,
lunching businessmen as well as partying youngsters.
There’s a great weekend brunch buffet, pasta on Mon-
VOUFSEFOMJOEFO]CFSMJO nating the menu are typical Berlin meat dishes like Boulette, days, an all you can eat barbecue feast on Wednesdays
UÁ]GÁ Kohlroulade (beaf-stuffed cabbage leaves), Sauerbraten and for internet junkies free wifi with laptops available for
JOGP!PQFSOQBMBJTEF]XXXPQFSOQBMBJTEF (marinated pot roast) and Rostbratwurst. QOpen 12:00 - guests. Q Open Mon.-Fri. 09:00 - open end; Sat.-Sun.
22:00. (€7-14). A 10:00 - open end

Nola’s am Weinberg G-2, Veteranenstr. 9, MI,

Food with a view MRosenthaler Pl., tel. 44 04 07 66, www.nola.de. This Japanese
hip restaurant overlooks a sloping park. The predominantly Sushi Circle F-3, Französische Str. 48, MI, MFran-
When your dinner partner just isn’t that interesting, Swiss menu lends itself to the terrace, which is perfect for zösische Str., tel. 20 38 79 60. This sushi bar caters
these restaurants at least have a nice view to look at. pretending be in the mountain air of St. Moritz. Breakfast is less to the guests of the upscale hotels in the area and
served until 16:00 and you can order meals until midnight. more to shoppers and office workers on the go. If you’re
Käfer Dachgarten F-3, Platz der Republik 1 (Re- QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (€6-13). B not quick enough to grab the pieces passing by on the
ichstag), TG, MUnter den Linden, tel. 22 62 99 33, bar’s conveyor belt, be patient and it will circle around
www.feinkost-kaefer.de. When time is money, you Oranium F-3, Oranienburger Str. 33-34, MOranien- again. If not, ask the sushi chef stuck in the middle to
may as well spend it on a good meal while visiting the burger Str., tel. 30 88 29 67, www.oranium.de. Just down whip a request off for you. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
Reichstag dome. The line to get into the building can the street from the Neue Synagoge, Oranium is a pleasant 18:00 - 23:00. (€1-7).
mean an hour-long wait, but those with a restaurant all-day café/restaurant/bar with plenty of dark wood, a long
reservation can use the side entrance and be whisked
to their meal and a 180-degree view of eastern Berlin.
bar and pretty lights. There are great breakfasts (served until
16:00), lunches and good-value dinner options. The menu is Jewish
The restaurant is run by Käfer, a gourmet-foods specialist as international as it can get; for something special try the Kadima F-3, Oranienburger Str. 28, MOranienburger
from Munich. German specialities are highlighted and a German Wrap - wrapped around two kinds of sausage - or Str., tel. 275 942 51, www.kadima-restaurant.com.
regional name appears in most main course listings. The the chicken with strawberry/chili sauce. Wash it all down Although the name Kadima (meaning ‘start’ or ‘forwards’)
last orders are taken at 21:30. Q Open for Breakfast with a cocktail or two. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 is also used by some Israeli politicians, the real party is
09:00-10:15; Lunch 12:00-14:30; Desserts 15:30-16:30; - 03:00. (€3-15). right here, next to the Oranienburger Strasse synagogue.
Dinner 18:30-24:00. (€7-26). AB Styled after a 1920s coffeehouse, the tables of this Jewish-
Refugium F-3, Gendarmenmarkt 5, MI, MStadtmitte, Russian restaurant and bar are adorned with collages of
Telecafé (TV Tower) G-3, Panorama Str., MI, MAl- tel. 229 16 61, www.restaurant-refugium.de. Set in the Jewish celebrities. It’s up to you to cover them up with
exanderpl., tel. 242 33 33, www.berlinerfernseh- rear of the French Church on Gendarmenmarkt and named the delicious plates of ‘kosher-style’ food, which include
turm.de. This rotating restaurant at 207 metres gives after the Huguenot refugees who erected the church, this lamb, shashlik, fish, latkes and bagels. The bomb-proof
you a spin around the city in 30 minutes. It’s a relaxed elegant Baroque eatery serves a good variety of dishes at glass in the windows make it a pretty safe place to eat.
Tower of Babel, where the menu makes foreign visitors low prices (considering the top location, anyway). QOpen The kitchen is open until midnight. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00,
feel at home with Chinese, Italian, Indian, and Mexican from 11:00. (€12,80-32). AB Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
dishes among the German listings. Daily specials are
the best prepared; the soups and the red cabbage are Reinhardt’s G-3, Poststr. 28, MI, MKlosterstr., tel.
delicious. Do make reservations, or wait for a table while 242 52 95. Reinhardt’s friendly staff can whisk a coffee Latin American
circling the observation level. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. to your table in no time, or if you’re here for the food, one QBA F-2, Oranienburgerstr. 45, MI, MOranienburger
Entrance fee €8.50. (€9-14). E of the light meals. The large restaurant is situated in the Tor, tel. 28 04 05 05, qba.newspool.info. The country
Nikolaiviertel, and is well-positioned for a break during a city of the man who still thinks beards are pretty neat brings
walk. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (€10-20). AB you Cuban, Creole and Latin American dishes, drinks and
Ganymed F-3, Schiffbauerdamm 5, MI, MFriedrichstr., music. Unsurprisingly, Che and his mates stare down from
tel. 28 59 90 46, www.ganymed-brasserie.de. Before or Suppenbörse F-3, Dorotheenstr. 43, MI, MFriedrich- the walls with the ubiquitous slogans. Food is reasonably
after a Brecht play at the beloved Berliner Ensemble, take str., tel. 20 64 95 98, www.suppenboerse.de. A stand-up priced, longdrinks go for about €7, and happy hour lasts all
your mind off of the oppressed and enjoy oysters from Brittany, or takeaway soup joint, with a wide variety of liquid lunches. day till 21:00. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. Also on Konstanzer
Provence lamb dishes, or pizza-like, Alsatian Flammekuchen Get the world watered down in a bowl with the Mexican, Thai, Str. 1, CB (€4-10).
at this brasserie. The terrace has a view of the Spree and French or local soups. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 -
the trains pulling into Friedrichstraße. QOpen 11:30 - 02:00.
Kitchen from 12:00 until 24:00. (€7 - 22). AB
18:00. Closed Sun. (€4). S
Moroccan Turkish
Traube F-2, Reinhardtstr. 33, MI, MFriedrichstr., tel. 27 Kasbah G-2, Gipsstr. 2, MI, MRosenthaler Pl., tel. 27 Hasir G-3, Oranienburger Str. 4, MI, MHackescher
HEat G-3, Karl-Liebknecht- 87 93 93, www.traube-berlin.de. A new wine restaurant 59 43 61, /www.kasbah-berlin.de. The lighting throws Markt, tel. 28 04 16 16, www.hasir.de. Don’t let the
Str. 3, tel. 238 28 34 72, fax serving gourmet ‘Alpine’ cuisine together with an excellent mysterious Oriental patterns of the modern walls of this Grand Bazaar-style hawker at courtyard entrance put you
238 28 10, info@heat-berlin. range of wines in an elegant building from 1840. Chef cook fabulous little eatery. It offers a couple of specialities, including off: the red marble entrance way leads not to apple tea and
de, w w w.heat-berlin.de. Kevin Nathan conjures up extraordinary cross-over dishes couscous dishes and kofte (spicy meatballs) and homemade a pile of carpets but to Europe’s best Turkish restaurant for
HEat with its show kitchen of- from southern Germany, Elsas, Switzerland and Austria. bread as well as tasty Moroccan tea and wines. The friendly cuisine and service. The most upscale restaurant of this
fers dishes with authentic influ- Guests at ‘Grape’ can choose from a la carte dishes or staff will wash your hands in rosewater and give you a bowl Berlin chain prepares its many lamb dishes either over a wood
ences: spicy dishes from the compose their own menus, with our without wines. QOpen of olives. The clubby music played here and the cocktails on coal grill or within a stone oven. QOpen 11:30 - 00:30. five
Indian Tandoor oven, crispy 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00-23:45. Closed Sun. the menu make it attractive to linger after dinner. QOpen other outlets in Berlin (Wilmersdorf, Kreuzberg, Schöneberg,
crusts from the wood oven and freshly grilled dishes from the 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (€8-13). PB Spandau) (€12-15). PAB
Rotisol. In addition to the big terrace and the spectacular view
of the Berliner Dom, the restaurant offers a wide range of Italian
excellent wines from all over the world. Flame, the private Al Contadino Sotto Le Stelle G-2, Auguststr. 34,
dining room, has a separate door to the Spree terrace and MI, MRosenthaler Pl., tel. 281 90 23, info@alconta-
is perfect for a private diner or a small meeting and can be dino.com, www.alcontadino.com. On nights when other
booked for up to 12 people. Q Open 06:30-23:00. Breakfast restaurants on the street have more staff than guests, this
(€24) until 10:30, Sun until 11:00. Open 06:00-23:00. Break- mouthful of an Italian restaurant has to turn passersby away.
fast (€24) until 10:30, Sun 11:00. The entrance looks like that of an apartment, and you get
to squeeze by the kitchen before dropping down into the
Kaiserstuben F-3, Palais am Festungsgraben, MI, dining room visible from the street. QOpen 18.00 - 24.00.
MFriedrichstr., tel. 20 61 05 48, www.kaiserstuben. (€11-20). PTNG
de. Try to keep your praise for the roasted turbot and
poached veal saddle to a murmur, as hearty declarations
do reverberate in this 16-seat dining room in a 18th-century
palace. Ingredients from the world over imaginatively add to
the regional dishes set on silver charges. Be sure to make www.inyourpocket.com
reservations for this special setting. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. (€27-28). ARB

30 NIGHTLIFE IN MITTE NIGHTLIFE IN MITTE 31
In this chapter, we give you the rundown of options in Mitte. Kaffee Burger G-2, Torstr. 60, MI, MRosa-Luxemburg- Schoko-Laden G-2, Ackerstr. 169, MI, MRosenthaler the stage. Check the blackboard for the small snacks avail-
Pl., tel. 28 04 64 95, w w w.kaffeeburger.de. The Pl., tel. 282 65 27, www.schokoladen-mitte.de. An old able; cocktails run €6-7. Musicians come from all over the
Bars patterned wallpaper and wood panelling has withstood
decades of the alternative scene’s smoke and its stuck-in-
squat bar that cropped up when the Wall fell, this near-dive
puts on a diverse events calendar. If your German is up to
planet, and Wednesday features a free local jam session.
Sunday is Tango night, when a DJ sets couples off into their
AM to PM G-3, Am Zwirngraben 2, MI, MHackescher the-Socialist-Sixties-look is perfect for DJ/author Vladimir snuff, come on Sunday for the funny group of guys dryly passionately rigid embraces. QOpen 21:00 - 00:30, Fri, Sat
Markt, tel. 24 08 53 01, www.amtopm.de. Finally, a bar Kaminer’s wild and sweaty Russendisko nights. Happenings reading short stories, spoofing pop songs, acting out skits 22:00 - 00:30. E
that owns up to Berlin’s overblown reputation for nonstop like poetry slams and jams start evenings that end with and inventing sound effects. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat
nightlife. Unlike the S-Bahn that rumbles above its vaulted
ceiling, this bar runs 24 hours. A café by day, AM to PM calls
DJs spinning anything from Balkan and surf rock to samba.
QOpen 19:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. E
21:00 - 04:00, Sun 19:00 - 04:00.
Pubs
in its bartenders at 18:00 and DJs spin every night on the Strandbad Mitte F-2, Kleine Hamburger Str. 16, MI, Kilkenny Irish Pub G-3, Am
subterranean dance floor. Q Open 24hrs. Keyser Soze F-2, Tucholskystr. 33, MI, MOranienburg- MRosenthaler Pl., tel. 24 62 89 63, www.strandbad- Zwirngraben 17-20, MHack-
er Str., tel. 28 59 94 89. Crap service, but this renowned mitte.de. Off Auguststraße, Kleine Hamburger Straße dead escher Markt, tel. 2832084,
Aqua Lounge G-3, Karl-Lieb- bar is perfect on all other accounts. The food, drinks, 20s-30s ends against a fenced-in football pitch and Strandbad where www.kilkenny-pub.de. The
knecht-Str. 3, tel. 238 28 34 14, crowd, location, mysterious name, men’s toilets and the fact all the cool thirty-something kids come with their bikes (and 3 large rooms directly in the
fax 238 28 10, info@aqualounge- that Toast Hawaii is listed under German specialities all add for children there’s also a playground opposite). QOpen train station Hackescher Markt
berlin.de, www.aqualounge-ber- to its greatness. We can recommend the lamb chop, and 09:00 - 02:00. offer more than enough space
lin.de. The Aqua Lounge is a worthy Swabian specialities including Maultaschen (meat-filled ravioli, for natives and tourists to
Wed only). QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. B
addition to Berlin’s nightlife. There’s
an amazing selection of drinks, unrivalled cocktail creations Clubs meet & mingle, drink, party and, of course, follow interna-
tional sporting events live. 2 large TVs and 2 big screens
and great music in this brilliantly designed bar. Every Thursday Kula Karma F-3, Dorotheenstr. 65, MI, MFriedrichstr., Dante G-3, Am Zwirngraben make sure that, even in the farthest corner, you won’t miss
from 22:00 to 01:30 there’s live Jazz music performed by the tel. 27 58 20 35, www.kulakarma-berlin.de. Apparently 8-10, MHackescher Markt, a single goal. Irish & German beer, whiskey, and other nice
New York, New York Duo and a special guest. QOpen 20:00 the result of an explosion in a teenage girls’ room, this place tel. 24727401, info@dante- cold beverages flow more freely than the nearby Spree river.
- 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 03:00. has happily clashing pinks and oranges, with golden stripes club.de, www.dante-club. QOpen from 10:00.
spiralling over the walls. You are the guru, and can indulge in de. The Dante on Hackescher
Atrium Lobby Lounge & Bar lounging, dining or chilling together with Mitte’s hip crowd. Markt is a renowned club, in- Oscar Wilde F-2, Friedrichstr. 112a, MI, MOranien-
G-3, Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3, tel. Come here for the relaxed atmosphere and the great cock- ternational restaurant and popular location for events all in burger Tor, tel. 282 81 66, www.oscar-wilde-irish-pub.de.
238 28 34 70, www.berlin.radis- tails. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00. A one. In the centre of the lively capital city, it has a large sum- A brash, large, Irish pub that fills up with expats and visitors
sonsas.com. The Atrium Lobby mer terrace and an atmospheric open air lounge. On the whenever there’s a football rolling over some foreign field.
Lounge & Bar, underneath the Mai Tai Bar F-3, Mohrenstr. 30 (Hilton Hotel), MI, Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday club nights, Dante Its big screen shows Sky Sports, Premiership, Champions
spectacular AquaDom wi th i ts MStadtmitte, tel. 202 30. There’s live music nightly, but no offers the perfect setting for Berliners and visitors to celebrate League and mixture of international sport, while the kitchen
2500 fishes swirling around, is the hula-dancing at this South Pacific-themed bar fronting Trader a party in good company. The latest music and a profes- churns out Irish food, including a good all-day breakfast, and
perfect place to meet up with friends for coffee and cake, Vic’s restaurant. The blue-lit ceiling casts an underwater glow to sional team create a party atmosphere till the early morning a menu that changes every week, it’s the kind of place you
light snacks or to enjoy delicious cocktails to unwind after a the room, though the carpeting is just wrong for a tropical para- hours. QOpen from 09:00. want to come back to. Every Friday and Saturday there’s live
busy day. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. dise. The well-mixed cocktails’ names suggest narratives, like music, and every second Friday a wild karaoke party and
the Samoan Fog Cutter and Suffering Bastard, but shouldn’t they Grüner Salon G-2, Volksbühne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Pl. Monday night is quiz night. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
be paying us to order a drink that sounds like a disease - Shingle 2, MI, MRosa-Luxemburg-Pl., tel. 24 59 89 36, www. 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. E
Stain? QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. E gruener-salon.de. Chandeliers dress up this occasional club
venue, talk-show stage, and cabaret. Grab your partner for
Mitte Bar F-2, Oranienburger Str. 46, MI, MOranienburg- standard evenings like Thursday Tango and Friday Swing. Q
er Tor. Respectable enough for people with spending power, Open Thu 21:00 - 04:00; Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00.
yet shabby enough to fit seamlessly into the Mitte bar scene.
A relaxed patch by day for French breakfast or coffee-slurping, Kingkongklub G-2, Brunnenstr. 173, MI, MRosentha-
the evenings become interesting, with cocktail-testing and on ler Pl., tel. 28 59 85 38, www.king-kong-klub.de. The
weekends DJs mixing house. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. dark leather sofa units here are massive and if you squint,
maybe the lounging blonde does look like she’s resting on the
Newton Bar F-3, Charlottenstr. 57, MI, MFranzösische big gorilla’s palm. It depends on what DJ is spinning, but you’ll
Str., tel. 20 29 54 21, www.newton-bar.de. Men smoke occasionally find a crowd pushing the end of their clubbing
cigars beneath Helmut Newton’s life-size shots of nude Ama- career, but still looking fierce while doing it. Q Open daily
zons and their dates sip expertly made cocktails. Dress sharp from 22:00 - open end
to compliment all the black leather and dark green marble.
QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. Roter Salon G-2, Volksbühne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Pl. 2,
MI, MRosa-Luxemburg-Pl., tel. 24 06 58 06, www.roter-
Reingold F-2, Novalisstr. 11, MI, MOranienburger Tor, salon.de. This place probably began with a faded elegance,
tel. 28 38 76 76, www.reingold.de. A lounge glowing in but let’s say it’s just settled in after ten years of clubbers
amber tones recalls the thirties with an oversize drawing of bouncing off its red walls. Most nights feature electro pop,
Thomas Mann’s forlorn offspring, Klaus and Erika, and leather electro lounge, and electroclash - the music Berlin is known
and velvet seating. Though it often has a DJ, no one dances for. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Tue, Sun.
here. It’s a setting for making stationary moves on your date,
or your tapas. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Week-End Club G-3, Alexanderplatz 5, MAlexander-
Closed Mon, Sun. platz, www.week-end-berlin.de. A club/bar/galerie/lounge
set on the 12th floor of the beautifully hideous Haus des
Rivabar G-3, Dircksenstrasse, Bogen 142, MAlexan- Reisens (the GDR state travel agency specialising in saying
derplatz, tel. 24 72 26 88, www.riva-berlin.de. Named ‘no’) on the corner of Otto-Braun-Straße. QOpen 23:00 -
after the Italian football god who literally kicked Germany out 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. €6-8.
of the 1970 World Cup, Riva has a fantastic glowing drinks bar
in the centre of the gaily painted railway viaduct arch that it’s
housed in. DJ Fritz spins discs on weekend nights, and the Jazz clubs
range of over 150 cocktails is available daily for the thirsty. b-flat G-2, Rosenthaler Str. 13, MI, MWeinmeisterstr.,
In summer, the terrace offers great views of the landmark TV tel. 283 31 23/280 63 49, www.b-flat-berlin.de. For
tower. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. once, a spacious jazz club with unobstructed sightlines to

32 FOOD & DRINK AROUND TOWN FOOD & DRINK AROUND TOWN 33
Kaffee Fröhlich H-2, Belforter Str. 22, PB, MSenefelder

For a night out with the locals, head out into a Kiez, the generic
term for a particularly lively sub-neighbourhood of a city district. Symbol key Pl., tel. 41 72 52 42. Twenty-two years ago, owner Herr Japanese
Eating out and bar hopping is easy in Berlin because there Daska planted the trees that shade your Czech or German Sushi Imbiss am Wasserturm H-2, Rykestr. 45, PB,
are so many restaurants, bars, pubs and clubs to dip and dive P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted beer. Patronized by neighbourhood intelligentsia, grannies and MSenefelderpl., tel. 44 04 57 06. Discounts at happy
your way through. With all the choices in each neighbourhood, E Live music S Take away young families, Kaffee Fröhlich isn’t a trendy hotspot, but a hour (weekdays 13:00 - 16:00) crowd this five-table joint,
people tend to stick to one area once the night begins (or if place where Daska plans to grow old. The menu of new and but there’s takeout as well. Sake Maki, California Make and
they’re exhausted from the sightseeing, to stay close to their R Internet U Facilities for the disabled traditional Berlin cuisine changes daily and all sauces and vegetarian items all run about €3. All sushi-lovers speak some
hotel). Though there’s a range of places in each district, bars in G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking condiments are house-made. Breakfast is served until 16:00 Japanese, but if you need any explanations, the Japanese
Potsdamer Platz and western Berlin are often more clean-cut and the last call for supper is 23:00. Feel free to bring your owner/chef and staff speak English. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
and targeted at the over-30 set. Prenzlauer Berg and Kreuz- O Casino M Nearest U/S-Bahn station favorite record and lay it on the turntable. Q Open 12:00 - Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (€9-11).
berg have a mix of hole-in-the-wall and trendy venues, while 02:00; Sun 10:00 - 02:00. NB
Friedrichshain is really for the unwashed and adventurous.
Bars
German Magnet Club H-2, Greifswalderstr. 212-213, PB, MRo-
Prenzlauer Berg the hookah. The interior design follows the feng shui of Pren- Metzer Eck G-2, Metzer Str. 33, PB, MSenefelder Pl., sa-Luxemburg-Pl., tel. 42 02 14 07, www.magnet-club.
zlauer Berg; random shabby old furniture and lamps scattered tel. 442 76 56, www.metzer-eck.de. Opened 1913, time de. In a black-box room, young bands from Berlin, Scandinavia
casually around. Fabulous. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. R
Asian seems to have stood still in the oldest tavern in Prenzlauer
Berg - and that’s the way the regulars like it. The Eck serves
and the U.S. play to attentive twenty-somethings. After the
show, a DJ takes over the lounge, where couches rim the
Duy Thai H-2, Kollwitzstr. 89, PB, MEberswalder Str.. A Anna Blume H-2, Kollwitzstr. 83, MSenefelder Platz, inexpensive Berlin dishes - sausages, Boulette (hamburger), dance floor and the drink menu is projected onto the wall.
wacky self-service restaurant with bench seating and lounge tel. 44 04 87 49, www.cafe-anna-blume.de. Named after and Bratkartoffel (fried potatoes), and has a letter from Upstairs is a mellower spot that looks like a furniture store
music that is regularly interupted by what sounds like the a lyrical poem and with a sexy Mucha flower girl on the wall, artist Heinrich Zille to the first tavern owner hanging on taken over after closing hours though nothing’s for sale except
echoing voice of God - the cook calling out your number. Order this is an excellent, relaxed café. Serving up coffee, cakes, the back wall, as well as a savings box that regulars once the drinks. To get here, take trams N°4 or 10 from Alexanderpl.
anything from the German-only menu (it’s all good; we recom- crepes, meals and the usual Berlin breakfasts, it’s one of the contributed to. Q Open 16:00 - 01:00; Sat 18:00 - 01:00. and hop off at Hufelandstr. Q Admission €6-8.
mend the red and green curries), then join a random table and better spots for people-watching or just reading. Intriguingly, Closed Sun. (€5-9).
wait for The Voice. Cheap, simple, fast, quirky and very tasty. it also sells flowers (blume) from the connected shop next Weinstein H-1, Lychener Str. 33, PB, MEberswalder
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (€3-7). B door - and the smell of coffee and fresh flowers combines
very well. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. International Str., tel. 441 18 42, www.weinstein.eu. Mature adults
savour an evening of conversation and wine at this cosy wine
Café Istoria H-2, Kollwitz Str. 64, PB, MSenefelder
Cafés Immer gern H-1, Dunckerstr. 10, PB, MEberswalder Pl., tel. 44 05 02 08, www.istoria-berlin.de. One of
tavern. Pick a meal to help anchor the 40 vintages available
by the glass (kitchen closes at 23:30). There are few better
Al Hamra H-1, Raumerstr. 16, PB, MEberswalder Str., Str., tel. 55 14 57 85, www.immergern.de. A groovy café the more reasonably priced restaurants on Kollwitzplatz, places to try the outstanding German whites that usually
tel. 42 85 00 95, bar@alhamra.de, www.alhamra.de. Not and cocktail bar on the sunny side of trendy Helmholtzplatz Istoria star ts the day with hear ty breakfasts (ser ved don’t make it out of the country and there’s also a selection
just a true internet café (€2/hr), but an Arab one too. After square. Sink into the comfy couches for coffee, cakes and until 16:00) that include omelettes (not as easy to find in of sherries. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00.
checking the miserable state of the world and your lovelife crepes during the day, or mingle with the locals later on in Berlin as you’d think). Evening diners have a wide variety
online, you can choose to ignore it all by ordering the excellent the day when DJs and baristas spin disks and liquor bottles. to choose from: turkey with cranberry sauce, 16 pizzas, Wohnzimmer H-1, Lettestr. 6, PB, MEberwalder Str.,
all-day Al Hamra Breakfast, perhaps followed by a few puffs on Smoking room provided.QOpen from 12:00. or homemade gnocchi or parpadelle. The menu is inter- tel. 445 54 58, www.wohnzimmer-bar.de. If the TV show
national, but since the chef is Italian, you can never go Friends had to relocate to Berlin, Phoebe would vote to hang
wrong with pasta. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 out here. The large ‘living room’ is ideally set up for meeting
- 03:00. (€3-8). B people. Stools, chairs and GDR-era tables are constantly
being shuffled to make room for the rumpled but attractive
Drei H-1, Lychener Str. 30, PB, MEberswalder Str., crowds. There’s coffee and pastries in the morning. QOpen
tel. 41 71 57 18, www.restaurant-drei.de. California 09:00 - 04:00.
shakes hands with Asia on a streetcorner overlooking
trendy Helmholtzplatz. Though pleasant, you’ve seen
the designer interior before - it’s the food that makes the Clubs
expedition north worthwhile. Taste dishes like Pacific-style Geburtstagsklub H-2, Am Friedrichshain 33, PB, MRo-
EIN GETRÄNK ZUM
duck, Indonesian satay and things containing lemongrass, or sa-Luxemburg-Pl., tel. 42 02 14 05, www.geburtstagsk-
HALBEN PREIS.
something lighter for lunch, like the tuna sandwich. QOpen lub.de. Twenty year-olds fill the two low-ceilinged rooms of
gegen Vorlage des Gutscheins.
18:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. Also at Savignypl. 2, CB. this otherwise spacious cellar. Like at many clubs in Berlin,
Gültig bis Ende Mai 2009
(€10-16). PAB you have to brave the walk down a dark courtyard. The line-
CAFÉ & COCKTAILBAR Gugelhof H-2, Knaackstr. 37, PB, MEberswalder Str.,
up changes every weekend. Q Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00 - 06:00.
tel. 442 92 29, www.gugelhof.com. During the early Icon G-1, Cantianstr. 15, PB, MEberswalder Str.,
bloom of Kollwitzplatz’s gentrification, the success of little www.iconberlin.de. The best drum n’ bass DJs in Europe,
Gugelhof was sealed by heads of state: Gerhard Schröder, including London’s Optical and Grooverider, descend into the
Joschka Fischer, Madeleine Albright, and that voracious eater cavernous cellars of a brewery (built 1898) on Saturday night.
Bill Clinton made a surprise visit to this former working-class Between hits on the cement dance floor, take it easy in the
district in May 2000. German, French, and Swiss dishes share lounge areas with low sofas or high back padded benches.
the menu; this is where to try flammekuchen, a thin-crust Friday night is for electric, hip hop, and funk fans. Berlin DJs
Alsatian-style pizza. The atmosphere is lively and service get to shake their reputation and play whatever they want on
is friendly. Q Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Tuesday Electric Icon nights. Q Open Tue, Fri & Sat 23:00
(€7-17). A - 07:00. Admission €3-6.
Nocti Vagus G-2, Saarbrücker Str. 36, PB, MSenefelder Soda Club Schönhauser Allee 36, tel. 44 31 51 55,
THE MOST POPULAR BAR IN PRENZLAUER BERG Platz, tel. 74 74 91 23, www.noctivagus.de. Fabulous info@soda-berlin.de, www.soda-berlin.de. In the courtyard
- an utterly dark restaurant. Blind and visually impaired of the Kulturbrauerei complex, Soda is a fun club with an
NEAR THE METRO STATION EBERSWALDER STRASSE waiters will seat you safely at your table, where you can enthusiastic regular crowd, playing Salsa on Thursdays and
DUNCKERSTR. 10 I 10437 BERLIN I WWW.IMMERGERN.DE stimulate all senses other than sight with the food and the Sundays (starting off with a lesson hour), a House Meets
live performances. Make reservations, mention if you’re an Soul night on Friday, with drinks included till 01:00, and the
10 AM - OPEN END English-speaker, and plan to spend at least two hours here. High-Fidelity House and Elektro night on Saturdays. Q Open
QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. (€28-50). AEG Thu-Sun 19:00 - 04:00.

Friedrichshain Western Berlin

Suksan
Willfully poor and politically way left young locals may Some of Berlin’s best restaurants reside in hotels in
moan about “Touris” encroaching on their favourite the Charlottenburg district (C-3), and there are plenty Sawatdi Kap – welcome to
Friedrichshain (I-3) watering holes, but they themselves of esteemed chef-owned restaurants as well. Places in Suksan. Experience a temple
are probably originally from outside Berlin too, so don’t Schöneberg (D-4) and western Tiergarten (D-3) are for Thai food and cooking
worry. Tree-lined Simon-Dach-Straße is full of spots to also listed here. West Berliners tend to be more affluent culture in the heart of West
stuff yourself at inexpensive, all-you-can-eat buffets for and fashion-conscious, and the bar and restaurant scene Berlin, offering varied dishes
Sunday brunch. caters to that. Young people go out here too, but those with captivating aromas and
over thirty will appreciate the more professional service, tasty combinations that will
tickle the palate. Quality,
Cafés more mature company, and the low count of penny-
pinching hipsters. freshness, and healthy and original ingredients are cen-
Cup Cake J-4, Krossener Str. 12, FH, tel. 25 76 86 87, tral to our dishes, without losing sight of modern cuisine.
Under bamboo roofs, Suksan seats over 60 guests in
www.cupcakeberlin.de. The very first thing that we learnt
to bake together with our mothers is now a fashionable little American Thai settings. Let us take you on a culinary trip to the
dessert snack with its own café dedicated to it. Try ‘The Hard Rock Café C-4, Meinekestr. 21, CB, MUh- land of smiles.
King’ cupcake (with Elvis’ favourite ingredients), the sweet landstr., tel. 88 46 20, w w w.hard-rock-cafe.de. Ansbacherstrasse 4 (corner of Kurfürstenstrasse),
‘Pretty in Pink’ or any of the other 20-odd creations. There’s The T-shirts sold at this restaurant must be among the tel. 21 01 86 73, www.suksan.de.
a good breakfast and coffee served at Cup Cake too. QOpen best-recognised on the planet. This is the place to head
12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. to meet both foreigners and locals looking for huge piles
of food (ranging from burgers and pasta to Tex-Mex) Route 66 C-4, Pariser Str. 44, WD, MUhlandstr.,
Kaffeeladen I-4, Simon-Dach-Straße 41a, FH, MWar- and staff who actually like their jobs. The decoration is tel. 883 16 02, www.route66diner.de. Kudos to this
schauer Str., tel. 29 04 89 16. The perfect coffeeshop similar to that of all restaurants in the chain - crammed dual level über-diner of tableside jukeboxes and murals of
- small and relaxed, with groovy wallpaper. The laden serves with popstar memorabilia such as guitars, records and Route 66 attractions. This joint does a homesick American
fabulous coffee, tea, Indian chai and home-made cakes. clothing. And yes, they do occasionally play hard rock. good, even if the burgers aren’t grilled. The local twenty-
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (€8-17). somethings filling the booths appreciate the affordable
PAEGB and huge Tex-Mex dishes. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
Kaufbar J-4, Gärtnerstr. 4, FH, MWarschauer Str., tel. 09:00 - 05:00, Sun 10:00 - 05:00. (€5-12). AGB
29 77 88 25, www.kaufbar-berlin.de. At this homey café Julep’s New York Bar & Restaurant B-4, Giese-
you can wash down your chocolate croissant with either a
coffee or carafe of red wine. Excepting the wine, you can buy
brechtstr. 3, CB, MAdenauerpl., tel. 881 88 23,
www.juleps-berlin.de. The concept is to emulate an old Asian
everything here to-go: the lampshades, art work, chairs and New York speakeasy - an illegal bar during the prohibi- Suksan D-4, Ansbacher Str.
even the ashtrays. The only thing not for sale in the “Buy Bar” tion years in the U.S. - but what law-dodging drinker was 4, SB, MWittenbergplatz,
are their board games. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. ever privilege to home-baked bread, house-smoked fish tel. 21 01 86 73, w w w.
Habermeyer J-4, Gärtnerstr. 6, FH, MOstkreuz, tel. 29 and chicken, and friendly service? Don’t expect a bar suksan.de. A short stroll from
International 77 18 87, www.habermeyer-bar.de. Like many Berlin bars,
Habermeyer recycles the 1970s with its light fixtures and
menu: the caliber of the kitchen overseen by a culinary
institute-trained New Jersey native matches that of the
we s t B erlin’s sh ops an d
sights, Suksan is a cosy Thai
Steakhaus San Diego I-3, Karl-Marx-Allee 141, furnishings but it also created its own unusual wall designs. exper tly made cocktails. Even a simple appetizer like restaurant decorated wi th
MFrankfurter Tor, tel. 42 02 37 77. Great steaks and A popular table football and flipper machine provide distrac- potato chips comes homemade with lemon-pepper oil ample bamb oo poles and
drinks at low prices with friendly service - what more does a tion from the loud and very varied DJ music, though there’s and rosemary sea salt. Menu items change every six palmleaf roofs. Drop by for the
meat-lover want? There’s a choice of beef and other meats, no space to dance, but there’s free salty snacks to console weeks and every thing is prepared fresh to order. Strip lunch specials, or dine on spicey Thai dishes accompanied
with prices listed in both euros and the long-gone Deutsch- you. Q Open from 19:00 - open end. loin and rib eye steak come in S, M, and L. Q Open by wine or fresh coconut milk, perhaps followed by a cock-
marks for nostalgics. Also at Voigtstr. 12, tel. 427 89 79. 17:00 - 24:00. €9-16.30. tail. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
Clubs 17:00 - 23:00.
Bars Lovelite J-4, Simplonstr. 38/40, FH, MOstkreuz, www.
Astro-bar I-4, Simon-Dach-Str. 40, FH, MWarschauer lovelite.de. New-music animates the dance room, and a
100m to KaDeWe and ZOO Berlin Austrian
Str., www.astro-bar.de. A firm Friedrichshain favourite, mellow band might be playing in another. It’s a low-key, hap- Ottenthal C-4, Kantstr. 153, CB,
this incredibly scruffy sci-fi themed bar is open late - very
late - and serves good cocktails at great prices. Visited
pening sort of place with various special events. Q Fri, Sat
23:00 - 07:00. E TRAVEL FAR. MUhlandstr., tel. 313 31 62, www.
ottenthal.de. The pleasure in this
by a wild variety of people, weekend evenings are the intimate, classy bistro is that of fresh,
best times to come, when DJs from Berlin’s underground
party scene spin their electropop and retro records. No
Maria am Ufer H-4, An der Schillingbrücke/Stralauer
Pl. 33-34, FH, MOstbahnhof, tel. 21 23 81 90, www.
EAT AT HOME.
RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE
seasonal ingredients, often from the
owner’s home town, Ottenthal. Daily
real dancefloor unfortunately, but nobody will stop you from clubmaria.de. Light on décor and finished surfaces, this vast specials might include foam of goose
just wiggling anywhere. It has an Attacks From Mars pinball warehouse-like space can hold the masses drawn by DJ idols liver or venison pie with apple-celery
machine. Q Open from 20:00 - open end. DJs every night like Dorfmeister, or, for smaller record-release parties, gives salad. The portion of Wiener Schnitzel
from 22:00. B you plenty of room to get your freak on without injuring anyone could feed two. Service is excellent,
around you. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. and you can rely on wine recommenda-
Bar an der Karl-Marx-Allee H-3, Karl-Marx-Allee 36, tions (the list is extensive). Wines and
MI, MSchillingstr., www.kma36.de. Poised to soak up the Matrix I-4, Warschauer Pl. 18, FH, MWarschauer Str., other products from Ottenthal such
spill-off from the WMF club next door and Kino International tel. 29 49 10 47, www.matrix-berlin.de. DJs under the ORIGINAL as pumpkinseed oil, are available for
across the street, this nameless bar is the latest glass-box Warschauer Straße U-Bahn station lay down tracks of disco, purchase. This is truly one of our fa-
resident on the block. The socialist-era building is all windows, metal rock, and black music on three dance floors within the THAI vourite spots. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00.
so you can spy the crowd lining the low banquettes around the vaulted-ceiling brick rooms that date back to 1901. University FOOD (€14-18). AB
perimeter before walking in. The loft’s doorways once led to students take advantage of the drink deal on Rock-it Tuesday
massage rooms but now open onto a communal floor, where and Thursday, and the more mature crowd comes on Saturday Ansbacher Strasse 4 Telefon 030.21 01 86 73
groups will continue sitting in circles on the wall-to-wall carpet- for 80s and disco nostalgia. Friday night is for contemporary Ecke Kurfürstenstrasse Telefax 030.21 01 86 88 www.inyourpocket.com
ing until their drinking finances more furnishings. A DJ spins rock, ragga, and chart music. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00, Tue, U-Bhf Wittenbergplatz www.suksan.de
nightly. QOpen 18:30 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:30 - 06:00. Thu 21:00 - 06:00, Wed 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Schnitzelei B-3, Röntgenstr. 7, CB, MRichard-Wagner- Grenander Morning Glory D-4, Wittenbergplatz 3a,
Pl, tel. 34 70 27 78, www.schnitzelei.de. Nearly as far MWittenbergpl., tel. 23 62 84 36, www.grenander.de. German
from central Berlin as Austria, Schnitzelei is well off the beaten Pastries, muffins, croissants and rolls lie in waiting at the Bavarium D-4, Tauentzien-
track, but well worth looking up. No tacky alpine decorations
here, but a light take on the genre, with oak patterns and
counter of this modern, earth-tone café. Great for breakfast,
lunch or indeed something else to glorify your morning.
str. 9-12, Europa-Center,
MKurfürstendamm, tel. 261
2 % 3 4! 5 2 ! . 4
subdued lighting creating a good vibe. There are delicious
schnitzels in different variations, though you may try the Ger-
man tapas or have the great Sunday brunch buffet. QOpen
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
Leysieffer C-4, Kur fürstendamm 218, CB, MUh-
43 97, www.bavarium-berlin.
de. A traditional Bavarian res-
taurant in the heart of Prussia,
KNESE
16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (€8-15). landstr., tel. 885 74 80, www.leysieffer.de. If you’re where buxom waitresses plonk
going to do it just once in Berlin, have your cake here. For down hearty German dishes
Cafés those who really shouldn’t, you can shave off at least a
euro by purchasing one of the day-old pastries (how they
and big glasses of Löwenbräu, Radler and Franziskaner beer,
to the merry tune of oompah-music. How much more german
Café de Paris D-4, Budapester Str. 35, CB, MWitten- could not be sold out every day is cause for wonder). can it get? Find the Bavarium on the lower level of the Europa-
bergplatz, tel. 25 79 44 87. Opposite the zoo aquarium and This chocolate purveyor occupies the former Chinese Center, near the Gedächtniskirche. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
with a large terrace overlooking a square, this French-owned embassy. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun
café is a typical Parisian bistro in central Berlin. Specialising 11:00 - 19:00. B Joe’s Wirtshaus zum Löwen C-4, Hardenbergstr.
in entrecôte charolaise, merguez maison, quiches lorraines 29, CB, MZoologischer Garten, tel. 262 10 20, www.
and coq au vin, the café is also known for its home-made Tim’s Canadian Deli D-4, Maaßenstr. 14, SB, MNol- joes-berlin.de. This might be the only place in Berlin to quaff
pâtisseries. Popular with bankers, travellers and lovers of life. lendorfpl., tel. 21 75 69 60. It looks good, the food and
QOpen 08:30 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. AUG service are great and the streetcorner setting is enviable,
but we can’t figure out from the German-language menu Bavarium
Café im Literaturhaus C-4, what exactly is Canadian about Tim’s, apart from the maple
Fasanenstr. 23, CB, MUh- syrup pancakes (€5.10) and fresh bagels served all day. Bavarium is a part of Bavaria transplanted into the heart !UTHENTIC"ERLIN
landstr., tel. 882 54 14. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 09:00 of Berlin. This rustic patch of southern Germany offers
Some guests may be sporting - 01:00. AB the best of Bavaria without the long journey to get there. CUISINEATITkSBEST
three-piece suits, straw hats, Sample local dishes such as Haxen, white sausages and
giant schnitzels, washed down with beers served by
polished canes and freshly
fluffed pups, but you don’t have Fine dining waitresses in traditional garb. Knesebeckstraße 63
to be all that precious about Die Quadriga C-4, Eislebener Str. 14 (Hotel Branden-
eating at this literary hangout. Food (served until 24:00) runs burger Hof), WD, MAugsburger Str., tel. 21 40 56 50, Bavarium, Tauentzienstr. 9-12 (Europa-Center com- tel. 884 13-0
from cheap sandwiches for aspiring writers and critics, to www.brandenburger-hof.com. Chef Bobby Bräuer arrived plex next to the Gedächtniskirche), www.bavarium- www.restaurant-knese.de
lamb. The 19th-century building has airy rooms that are with his Michelin star from the Victoria in Düsseldorf. The berlin.de. Open daily 12:00-24:00.
pleasant to dine in on a sunny day. Adjacent is a well-stocked main room of the intimate restaurant is in the style of a
bookstore. QOpen 09:30 - 01:00. (€5-17). GB classic Berlin salon, with paintings from the Berlin Seces-
sionist movement and KPM porcelain. The cherrywood chair Munich’s Löwenbräu by the litre, and it’s definitely the only
design is by Frank Lloyd Wright, dating to 1904. QOpen spot to sit in a leather booth from the long defunct East Ger-
19:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Tue-Fri 12:00-14:00 (€26-32). man Palace of the Republic. Furnishings from that parliament
ARE h building’s Bierstube are in one corner (distinguished wooden
spheres the size of bowling balls). Sit in the beer garden
First Floor D-4, Budapester Str. 45 (Hotel Palace), CB, of tropical potted plants while the weather holds and stop
MZoologischer Garten, tel. 25 02 10 20, www.palace. inside for football screenings. The kitchen stops serving its
de. A Michelin star has been the beacon over Matthias Buch- diverse cuisine (including Argentinean steaks) around 01:00,
holz’s restaurant for years now, and visiting gourmands who but the cocktails and drinks flow on afterward. Joe’s can be
can’t move well after a seven-course meal make a point of rented out for group events as well. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00.
staying at the Hotel Palace, which also sponsors culinary (€7-16). AEB
events throughout the year. The cuisine has touches of the
Far East and turbot with caviar or prawn is often on the menu. Knese C-4, Knesebeckstr.
Q Open Mon. - Fri. 12:00-15:00, 18:30-23:00 and Wed., Sat. 63, MUhlandstr., tel. 88 41
and Sun. 18:30-23:00. (€34-36). PA h Altberliner Biersalon 34 48, w w w.restaurant-
knese.de. Alt-Berliner, tradi-
Hugos D-4, Budapester Str. 2 (InterContinental), CB, The Alt Berliner Biersalon, strategically placed along tional ‘Old Berlin’ cuisine, is on
MZoologischer Garten, tel. 26 02 12 63, www.hugos- Berlin’s stately Kurfürstendamm boulevard, is the ideal offer at rustic Knese. Try the
restaurant.de. The InterConti adopted the American floor place to take a break and rest on a city walk, or to end Königsberger Klopse, meatballs
numbering system for its Michelin-starred French restaurant, your day with a good meal and some drinks. Open 24 with potatoes, the pork knuckle
placing Hugos on the 14th (not 13th) floor and shortening its hours and also serving food non-stop, there’s no real or the calf liver with apples, on-
name from Zum Hugenotten. Named restaurant of the year reason to leave at all – especially when major sports ions and potatoes for a taste of the Berlin of yesteryear at
by Feinschmecker magazine, its narrow dining room has a events are screened and live bands play the night away. reasonable prices. There’s also a selection of international meals
dazzling view across the park to Potsdamer Platz. Heavy Credit cards accepted. and desserts for you to tuck in to. Wash it all down with some
menus reveal that chef Thomas Kammeier focuses on just good South-African wine. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. AB
a few main courses; three fish and three meat dishes. The Alt Berliner Biersalon, Kurfürstendamm 225/226,
€4 appetiser with Iranian caviar stands out for its single www.alt-berliner-biersalon.de. Renger-Patzsch D-5, Wartburgstr. 54, MEisenacher
digit - but it’s per gram. QOpen 18:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. Str., tel. 784 20 59, www.renger-patzsch.com. Formerly
(€33 and up). A h known as the Storch, Renger-Patzsch offers upscale Ger-
man dining with a difference. The interior is kept casual and
simple, with all focus on the people and the food. Serving
regional/domestic cooking, you can order dishes such as
sauteed mushrooms in chervil sauce, pan-seared pike-perch
www.inyourpocket.com and a selection of tasty Alsatian flammekuchen. The Sun-
day roast is a true feast, with wine-braised beef. QOpen
18:00 - 23:30. (€7-19).

Schöneberger Weltlaterne D-5, Motzstr. 61, SB, Dressler C-4, Kurfürstendamm 207, CB, MUhlandstr., Montevideo D-5, Viktoria-Luise-Pl. 6, SB, MViktoria- ? 2@A. B ? . ; A @ < : : 2?4 .?A2 ; 0 < 0 8A. 6 9/ . ? 9< B ; 4 2
MViktoria-Luise-Pl., tel. 21 96 98 61, www.schoe- tel. 883 35 30, www.restaurant-dressler.de. A good place Luise-Pl., tel. 213 10 20, www.montevideo.de. The
neberger-weltlaterne.de. Enough of the New East... to go if you yearn to relive something of Berlin’s roaring 1920s. outdated décor of this old west Berlin bistro - grey carpeting,
come back to old West Berlin at this wood-panelled Expect red seats, Art Deco wooden panelling, large mirrors, aqualight candleholders and an exposed heating duct - is
tavern on the sou thwest side of Viktoria-Luise-Platz. and good bistro and proper restaurant meals from a menu tolerated by the business people having a casual lunch and
Schni t zel variations, Berliner Eisb ein (pork knuckle that changes every week. Convenient for visiting the Story the grandmothers chatting over coffee and cake. Vegetables
wi th pea puree, sauerkrau t, and b oiled pota toes), of Berlin exhibition, in the same building (see Sightseeing). are cooked just right and the Königsberger Klöps (tender
Oma’s Rote Grütze (a vanilla pudding with stewed red QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. (€15-27). AB meatballs with caper sauce) make for good comfort food.
berries), and warm apple strudel make up the menu of QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. (€7-10).
traditional Alt-Berlin and Brandenburg cuisine. Q Open Duke D-4, Nürnberger Str.
17:00 - 24:00. (€4-12). 50-55, MWittenbergplatz,
tel. 683 15 40 00, www.duke- Italian
Francucci’s B-4, Kurfurstendamm 90, CB, MAdenauer
International restaurant.com. Creative inter-
national crossover meals are Platz, tel. 323 33 18, www.francucci.com. Fabulous food
Asado A-4, Messedamm 10, CB, MMesse, tel. 301 served in the aptly named El- served in a popular Charlottenburg restaurant - once nominated
60 38, www.asado-am-icc.de. Trade fair and conference lington Hotel restaurant, set in a as one of the best Italian restaurants outside Italy by their
visitors can escape work for a while at this Argentinian res- dazzling 1920s building near the Ku’damm. The open kitchen president. Elegant flagstone floors and subdued lighting set the
taurant serving real gaucho food. Apart from huge steaks (in allows you to watch chef cook Carsten Obermayr create cu- scene, while the kitchen churns out fresh, fresh food, with home-
different sizes up to 360gr), Asado offers various other meat linary treats with a Mediterranean and Asian influence, like made pasta and bread and plenty of regional ingredients found
and seafood dishes, all at reasonable prices. Drop by on roast monk fish with sugar pea or saddle of deer calf with back in dishes like the veal scallop with herbs, potatoes and black
Thursday (from September to May) for all-you-can-eat ribs. glazed fennel. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. truffles. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
Einhorn C-4, Mommsenstr. 2, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 881 Il Nido C-5, Fasanenstr. 40, CB, MSpichernstr., tel.
Diekmann C-4, Meinekestr. 7, CB, MUhlandstr., 42 41, www.einhornonline.de. A fabulous vegetarian lunchbar, 883 18 96. The aromas of Rome and Calabria waft through
tel. 883 33 21, www.j-diekmann.de. Herr Diekmann with standing space only. Every day there’s a completely different this small, Italian-owned restaurant. Meals are prepared a la
was one of the first to grace Berlin’s simple tables with menu, with European and Mediterranean as well as Arab and minute with fresh ingredients; pasta is homemade; there are
some French finesse, even if it was in what began as a Asian dishes. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€3-6). 14 noodle variations and plenty of seafood and grilled meat
sandwich shop in 1976. Shelves and drawers of an old dishes as well. The narrow front room is the cosiest and has 1 6 ; 2 6 ; @ A F 9 2 .A / 2 ? 9 6 ; ¹ @ 5 < A A 2 @ A ; 2 D C 2 ; B 2 < ? 6 4 6 ; . 9
Kolonialwaren store line the walls, and Diekmann still uses Florian C-4, Grolmanstr. 52, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 313 a view of the vitrine full of grappa. 300 kinds are apparently 0 B 9 6 ; . ? F 0 ? 2 .A 6 < ; @ 6 ; : < 1 2 ? ; . ; 1 < = 2 ; @ B ? ? < B ; 1 6 ; 4 @ ´
French techniques to primp excellent ingredients from 91 84, www.rflo.de. An especially popular restaurant on a available, but we didn’t ask the waiter to recite them all. 612.9 3<? . @A F96@5 /B@6;2@@ 9B;05 16;;2? 6; . ?29 .E21
throughout Germany. Always on the menu are oysters and street that’s crammed with eateries. Florian’s motto ‘make QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. (€13-20). B .A : < @ = 5 2 ? 2 < ? . @ B ; 1 .F : < ? ; 6 ; 4 7 . G G / ? B ; 0 5 ' A 6 : 2
a selection of French cheeses. If you can’t make up your food, not war’ could be extended with ‘not decoration,’ as it’s 9 2 @ @ . ; 1 6 ; A 2 ? ; .A 6 < ; . 9 ´ A 5 2 1 B 8 2 ? 2 @ A. B ? . ; A / 2 ? 9 6 ;
mind on what to order, choose the surprise three-course a simply furnished place with the emphasis on the food. The La Forchetta A-5, Königsallee 5b, MHalensee, tel. 892 ;r?;/2?42? @A? " ´"" $%& /2?96; A29 #% "! DDD1B82?2@A.B?.;A0<:
meal for €35. Q Open 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 18:00 - 23:30. handwritten menu changes often and suggests interesting new 85 97, www.la-forchetta-berlin.de. An upmarket restau-
(€15-21). AB combinations. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. (€8-16). AGB rant well within the city limits but overlooking lake Halensee.
Only fresh Italian food is served here, including a tagliatelle restaurant avoids raw fish altogether and specialises in ya-
with salmon starter and oven baked lamb. In summer, a ro- kitori, delicious poultry skewers grilled on flaming charcoal
mantic terrace is available.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. AB and accompanied with various other dishes. Try the udon
(noodles with duck and vegetables), kamameshi (rice with
Mola D-4, Wittenbergpl. 3, CB, MWittenbergpl., tel. 21 duck) or bataa-yaki (pan fried chicken in butter and garlic).
The Original! 47 50 60, www.restaurant-mola.de. After charging your

way down Ku’damm and Tauentzienstraße, collapse here with
your shopping bags. Mola’s pizzas, which overflow the already
You’ll soon see why the loyal Japanese clientele keeps return-
ing here. QOpen 17:30 - 22:00. Closed Thu. A
Classic shopping and dining!

huge plates, are delicious. There’s no English menu, but the
lengthy list is decipherable if you’ve eaten Italian before. On Oriental
Sunday, picking at the long brunch buffet table will run you Marooush C-4, Knesebeckstraße 46,
€8. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (€10-27). B MUhlandstraße, tel. 887 11 83 35, www.
marooush.de. Egyptian-oriental opulence
Ristorante Ciao B-4, Kurfürstendamm 156, CB, with a modern twist and gourmet food. The
MAdenauerplatz, tel. 89 00 68 47, www.ristorante-ciao. combined restaurant, shisha lounge and
Over 80 com. Ciao has reopened as a very chic Italian with an open cocktail bar has luxurious and tasteful décor
businesses: kitchen. Chef Heiko Probst entices discerning diners with enhancing the equally exotic menu. Puff on a
seasonal delights such as turbot in salt dough, dragonhead shisha as you await your cocktail or meal and
bars, restaurants, ravioli and scampi carpaccio drizzled in lime oil plus the deli- watch belly-dancers or listen to live music
shopping and cious homemade bread. Warm lighting and dark wood make Thursdays to Saturdays. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00.
entertainment you feel at home, as does the attentive yet discreet service.
With a wine cellar running to 300 bottles and a heated ter-
race, Ciao is set to say hello to Berlin’s Italian lovers. QOpen Spanish
18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. UBX El Dorado C-4, Kurfürstendamm 203, CB, MUhlandstr.,
tel. 88 92 65 82, www.eldorado-steakhaus.de. Dark
How to reach us:
A Zoo: U2, U9 · AWittenbergplatz: U1, U2, U3
Japanese woods and coloured tile work make a proper setting for this
Spanish restaurant. The various cuts weigh in between 180
Yakitori Rokko C-5, Hol- and 500 grams. The non-red meat dishes include Moorish
? Zoo: S5, S7, S75, S9 steinische Str. 40, Wilmers- and Catalan specialities and there’s also tapas if you just
= Zoo: X9, X10, X34, 100, 109, 110, 200, 204, dorf, MGünzelstr, tel. 86 39 want to snack while watching the boulevard’s shoppers pass
73 60, info@yakitori-rokko. by. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. (€18-20). AB
245, 249, M45, M46, M49 Tauentzienstr. 9 –12 · 10789 Berlin de, www.yakitori-rokko.de.
= Europa-Center: M19, M29, M46 Proving that there is much
Tel.: 030/26 49 79 40 · www.24EC.de more to Japanese cuisine than www.inyourpocket.com
sushi, this authentic Japanese

Har d Rock Café C-4, Meinekestr. 21, CB, Mommsen-Eck B-4, Mommsenstraße 45, CB,
MKurfürstendamm, tel. 88 46 20, www.hardrock. MAdenauerplatz, tel. 324 25 80, www.mommsen-eck. Irish Pub im Europa-Center
com. Immediately next to the entrance is the place of pil- de. With traditional charm a street north of the Ku’damm,
YAKITORI ROKKO grimage for so many travellers - the Hard Rock Café T-shirt Mommsen-Eck is a comfortable and atmospheric pub and A cosy pub in the style of an Irish village, hidden inside the
Japanese Grill Restaurant Europa-Center complex in western Berlin. Famed for its
and souvenir shop. Once past that, you’re in the familiar bistro boasting over a hundred types of best-quality beer,
surroundings of the generously decorated restaurant/bar lovingly preserved and served either inside or on the spacious 36-metre long bar, it’s the perfect place for typical Irish
Open 17:30 - 22:00, closed Thu pub food and beer. Important sports events – including
area where you’ll find both foreigners and locals looking terrasse. Full menu, including Sunday brunch.
for a good time, with Bud, Miller and Corona beer. QOpen English football – are screened, and there’s daily live
Holsteinische Str. 40 music to listen or dance to.
tel. 86397360
12:00 - 02:00. PAEG Trompete D-4, Lützowpl. 9, MNollendorfpl, tel. 23 00
47 94, www.trompete-berlin.de. Part-owned by actor Ben Irish Pub, Tauentzienstr. 9-12, www.irishpubberlin.
www.yakitori-rokko.de Harry’s New York Bar D-4, Lützowufer. 15, MNol- Becker, Trompete is an upmarket club often presenting new de. Open daily 12:00-04:00.
lendorfplatz, tel. 254780, www.esplanade.de. The live music acts. On every first Saturday of the month there’s
Mar y Sol C-4, Savignypl. 5, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 313 undispu ted king of central b erlin bars and lounges. the Kasino Royale film music party. Q Open Thu 19:00 -
25 93, www.marysol-berlin.de. Perhaps the most Mediter- The minute you walk through the doors, you’ll see why 02:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00. Admission €5-7. EB
ranean spot in Berlin, sitting on Mar y Sol’s terracotta-and- Harry’s New-York Bar resides atop of every Berlin bar
glazed-tiles terrace makes you think you never left Marbella. guide. Step back to a time when the key elements for Victoria Bar E-4, Potsdamer Str. 102, SB, MKurfürstenstr.,
Though the seaview is missing, the point-and-choose tapas unforgettable nights were great drinks, great music, and tel. 25 75 99 77, www.victoriabar.de. Grown-ups who appreci-
bar inside the hacienda-style interior should get you into the great friends. Meet and greet new acquaintances from ate a well-mixed cocktail make up the clientele of this retro-sleek
mood. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (€5-19). AB around the world. Enjoy music filling the room from a bar. The proof is in the barkeeps - they conduct cocktail school on
jazzman tickling the ivories. Known for its international select Sundays. Slide onto an olive-green banquette and let the
Bars drink menu consisting of nearly 200 choices, Harry’s is
one of the most popular bars in Berlin. Q Open Mon-Sat
wood panelled walls evoke the times when you snuck drinks out
of your parents’ liquor cabinet. Happy hour from 18:30 until 21:30.
Alt Berliner Biersalon from 19:00, Sun closed. QOpen 18:30 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:30 - 04:00.
C-4, Kur füstendamm
225, CB, MKurfürsten- Hefner C-4, Kantstr. 146, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 31 01 Zwiebelfisch C-4, Savignypl. 7-8, CB, MUhlandstr., tel.
damm, tel. 88 43 99 28, 75 20, www.hefner-berlin.de. The most happening spot 312 73 63, www.zwiebelfisch-berlin.de. The name Zwie-
www.alt-berliner-biersa-
lon.de. A favourite for many foreigners - a huge bar with cosy
on Savignyplatz is this cool cocktail bar on the corner with
Kantstraße. Though the lengthy cocktail menu includes all the
belfisch is, among other things, the term used by printers to label
a single letter that rebels and appears in a font unlike the letters Pubs
corners as well as areas where wild sports fans can watch a favourites, Hefner prides itself on having the best selection of around it. Aging, but still-kicking liberals come here to rest the Irish Harp B-4, Giese-
large screen. The bar serves well-priced German and inter- Martini cocktails in Berlin. To prevent the affluent 30-some- weight of their youthful ideals and trade wisecracks with long- brechtstr. 15, CB,
national food as well as big breakfasts. Groups are welcome thing crowd from getting bored, DJs perform on weekend time owner Hartmut Volmerhaus. Jazz or classic music is piped MAdenauerplatz, tel. 22 32
- actually you can fit 499 of your buddies plus yourself in here. nights. And if that’s not enough, there’s a brothel just around in, and a selection of papers and magazines helps stretch out the 87 35, info@harp-pub.de,
QOpen 24hrs. B the corner. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00. AB beer or coffee. Hot meals, like goulash and Swabian Maultaschen www.harp-pub.de. A well-
are served up until 03:00. The tall tables abutting the bar are a established Irish pub serving
Bar am Lützowplatz D-4, Lützowpl. 7, TG, MNol- Joseph Roth Diele E-4, Potsdamer Str.75, MGleis- brilliantly social arrangement. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. all the usual pub grub favou-
lendorfpl., tel. 262 68 07, www.baramluetzowplatz. dreieck, tel. 26 36 98 84, www.joseph-roth-diele.de. rites as well as soups, salads and sandwiches. On tap there’s
com. From his portrait at the back of the narrow, stylish bar,
Chairman Mao is forced to take in the scene of successful
A wonderfully cosy dark brown bar just west of Postdamer
Platz. Owned by the same people who run the odd Ave Maria Clubs Guinness, Kilkenny and a range of German beers. You can
expect major sports events to be beamed on screens, and
capitalists poring over each other. Professionals line what’s religious shop next door, it’s named after a prolific Jewish Luxor Club C-4, Knese- there’s regular karaoke, quiz nights and live music too.
reputed to be Berlin’s longest bar counter, or settle into the writer, whose quotes and books decorate the walls and who beckstraße 46, MUh- QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. B
low leather coaches in the back - the most comfy spot to read lived nearby in the 1920s when this street was the beating landstraße, tel. 887 11
the cocktail menu, which listing 150 kinds of champagne and heart of Berlin. Delicious dinners are served (snacks only on 83 35, www.cluborien- Irish Pub D-4, Tauentzienstr.
250 cocktails, is thicker (and a better read) than the Little Fridays), and it’s a fabulous place for a beer or wine after a tal.de. If you want to go 9-12, CB, MKur fürsten-
Red Book. At these prices, you’ll be glad you came for happy show at the Wintergarten Varieté, just opposite. QOpen clubbing after dinner at the damm, tel. 262 16 34, www.
hour - 16:00 - 21:00. QOpen 16:00 - 04:00. 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. downstairs restaurant, irishpubberlin.de. Live music
head to the Luxor club, on the stage every night, Guin-
Berlin Plaza Bar C-4, Knesebeckstr. 63, MUhlandstr., Kumpelnest 3000 E-4, Lützowstr. 23, TG, MKurfürsten- where you can dance to ness on tap, sports on TV and
tel. 88 41 30, info@plazahotel.de, www.plazahotel. str., tel. 261 69 18, www.kumpelnest3000.com. Strag- oriental dance floor classics in rooms with cool colours and fantas- beers in the 36m long bar are
de. The Berlin Plaza hotel bar serves a variety of German glers of all sexual orientations head here for a nightcap or one tic lighting. Admission is free for ladies before 23:00. On Thursdays the key attractions that regu-
and Czech beers to hotel guests and passers-by. Relax at last drunken spin on the tiny metal dance floor. The velvet you can get on a boat-ride party, starting off at the bar for a cocktail, larly get this place packed with punters. The Irish Pub provides
the bar and try a Redeberger, Berliner, Paulaner, Krusovice paintings and carpeted walls are fascinating after a couple of taking a shuttle to the riverside and partying on a boat before all of these with flair. Come (or avoid) on Mondays for karaoke
or a glass of Berlin’s white beer, often best with a shot of drinks, and so are the scruffy patrons apparently: it’s known heading back to finish the night at Luxor (book in advance). Dress night.QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 11:30 -
sweet syrup. as a hook-up bar. QOpen 19:00 - 05:00. code: elegant. Q Open Thu-Sat 20:00-06:00. E 04:00, Sun 11:30 - 03:00.

Café am Engelbecken H-4, Heinrich Heine Pl, KB,

Kreuzberg Weltrestaurant Markthalle MHeinrich-Heine-Str., tel. 28 37 68 16, www.cafe-am-
Pagode engelbecken.de. Opposite the impressive, partially-restored
Two Kiezes in Kreuzberg stand out with a high H-3, Pücklerstr. 34, KB, MGör- redbrick St. Michael’s church is a little pond, sunk into a
concentration of restaurants, cafés, bars and clubs. A much-loved self-service restaurant with inexpensive, litzer Bahnhof, tel. 617 55 02, depressed parkway that was once a canal. Hidden away at
Oranienstraße (G/H-3) is for the alternative set of all mouthwateringly delicious and award-winning Thai w w w.weltrestaurant-mark- the reedy edge of the pond is a sunny terrace café. Umbrellas
ages, nationalities, and sexual orientation. Those who cuisine. thalle.de. Within a historic mar- shade white picnic tables and the hip living room-like indoor
hang out around the Bergmannstraße/Mehringdamm ket hall building, the Markthalle portion is made up of two construction containers. View of
area (F-4) are perhaps a bit more pulled together and grey restaurant only 15 years old, yet the water or the rustling tall green reeds make this a peaceful
on the edges, but live music and gay venues keep things already has such a rustic atmo- respite from all things city while still being near the heart of
adventurous. sphere. The room is long and tall, Kreuzberg (and can you believe this very area was once filled
with wainscoting, simple wooden with rubble, and part of the Wall’s deathstrip?). Thai noodle
furniture and a bar that locals belly
Asian up to. It’s a restaurant that doesn’t let its looks carry it: the
dishes spring rolls, and curry and lentil soups are delicious
and at a great price. Cocktails are served until about 02:00.
Chantrey H-5, Paul-Lincke- kitchen takes pride in its nouvelle takes on German and QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (€4-7). B
Ufer 42/43, KB, tel. 0177 Austrian standards. The menu changes weekly, but count on
Spätzel, Schweinebraten (braised pork), and apple strudel.
412 46 02, info@loftberlin.
com, www.chantrey.de. A Breakfasts run from Russian to American-style, and as late Crossover
sleek new eatery with large as 17:00. After dinner, check if anything is going down in the Kuchen Kaiser G/H-4, Oranienpl. 11-13, KB,
pastel pain tin gs of faces, Privatclub, the club in the cellar. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (€8- MMoritzpl., tel. 61 40 26 97, www.kuchenkaiser.
clean-cut design, and a sur- 16, weekday lunch menu €7.50). AB de. Located on Oranienplatz, just a few meters from the
prising menu consisting of Oranienstrasse in the heart of Kreuzberg, this has been
typical Asian street food. There’s everything from Thai spring a melting pot for Berliners, their friends and visitors since
rolls, Indonesian sate, and Cambodian noodle soup to a
Vietnamese banana dessert. Fresh juices and smoothies Cafés 1866. Famous for its cakes and tarts, exclusively sent by the
Hindenburg to New York in the 1920s, the “Kaiser of cakes”
too. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Barcomi’s Deli F-5, Bergmannstr. 21, KB, MGneisenaus- has transformed into a restaurant with a wide variety of
tr., tel. 28 59 83 63, www.barcomi.de. American-owned German specialities and international food. There’s a great
Pagode F-5, Bergmannstr. No Kangaroo H-4, Muskau- Barcomi’s became a phenomenon with its simple concept: bring choice of breakfasts, a low-cost lunch from 12.00 to 15.00
88, KB, MMehringdamm, er Straße 13, MGörlitzer bagels, Celestial Seasonings tea, and some fatty American cakes (under €7), and a huge brunch on Sundays. You can watch
tel. 691 26 40. Simply one Bahnhof, tel. 65 79 96 30, and cookies to Berlin’s table. There are two picnic tables outside, the Champions League live, play pool, and sit down for the
of the best Thai restaurants info@nokangaroo.com, www. and inside you’ll have to squeeze past the five-layer display case special dinner service with fresh, home-made specialities.
in town, and awarded by the nokangaroo.com. Austrian, of lemon-strawberry-jam cake with white icing, chocolate walnut The Kuchenkaiser team won the ‘smartest bar in Berlin and
Thai embassy in Berlin as not Australian - the ski hu t pie, pecan pie, and other deadly sins. Bagels can be topped with Brandenburg’ live radio show, and will be opening an new
one of the best in Germany. decor and gondola bar seats American Philly cream cheese or European Frischkäse, or chicken, big tent in the garden soon to present even more events,
It feels crowded, steamy and at No Kangaroos are the set- hummus, or tuna salads. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - concerts and live cultural acts. A must-see in Berlin. QOpen
noisy, but that’s just part of ting for alpine treats from the 21:00. Also on Sophienstr. 21, MI. (€3-5). BS 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. B
th e au th entic sel f-ser vice Salzburg region, buffet lunches
atmosphere; wait till you sink your teeth in the fantastic and brunches, Stiegl beer as
food. All the Thai classics are present, as are some other well as par ties on weekend

Asian dishes. If you like it hot, just ask and they’ll make it hot. nights. Check the events online.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri,
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (€2-9). B Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.

Riehmer’s F-5, Hagelbergerstr. 9 KB, MMehring-
Austrian damm, tel. 78 89 19 80. Riehmer’s brings together
Austria F-5, Bergmannstr. 30, KB, MGneisenaustr., the cuisines of the far-reaching Austro-Hungarian empire.
tel. 694 44 40. Have your Wiener Schni tzel where Standards on the changing menu are Wienerschnitzel,
they do it right, here in Austria. This corner restaurant beef consomme (Tafelspitz Suppe) and beef goulash. The
is known for its huge por tions, so indulge in the full cream-coloured rooms are bare of ornamentation save for
experience or go for the half por tion. The setting is a portrait of Kaiser Franz Joseph and linen napkins folded
appropriate - heav y wooden furnishings and antlers into crowns. The coveted simpler seating is on the cedar
on the wall. All the other dishes, including Salzburger chips of the garden that faces an historic apartment com-
Fri tattator te, are excellent as well. Q Open 18:00 - plex for Prussian officers. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. Closed
24:00. (€8-17). A Mon. (€7-16). B


Sale e Tabacchi F-4, Rudi Dutschke Str. 23, KB,

No Kangaroo MKochstr., tel. 252 11 55. This attractive restaurant with
a nice garden and real Italian waiters seems to have gotten
a bit comfortable and not so gracious with age. Guidebooks
send tourists here, and journalists working nearby may meet
visiting colleagues here for a meal, but on a recent visit, the
inexpensive wine by the glass was not pleasant, the crème
of cauliflower soup could not be pepped up by pepper, salt,
nor oil, and the waiter expressed a bit too much disdain for
a customer who only wanted a light bite at 23:00. It’s the
‘nicest’ restaurant around Checkpoint Charlie, and is not
far from the Jewish Museum either. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00.
(€10-22). AG
Japanese
Sumo F-5, Bergmannstr. 89,
Alpine ambiance and Austrian specialties in Berlin;
German braten (braised pork), and apple strudel. Breakfasts run
from Russian to American-style, and as late as 17:00. After the atmosphere at No Kangaroos is best described
KB, MMehringdamm, tel.
69 00 49 63, www.s-u-m-o.
Henne H-4, Leuschnerdamm 25, KB, MMoritzpl., tel. dinner, check if anything is going down in the Privatclub, the as a cross between a Viennese café and an après ski com. Sumo is a cunningly de-
614 77 30, www.henne-berlin.de. Who knew that the club in the cellar. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (€8-16, weekday hut serving delicacies from the Salzburg region. Enjoy signed Asian restaurant on
Germans fried chicken? Other than a few Wursts, chicken lunch menu €7.50). AB hearty specialties presented at the Heurigen buffet three levels ser ving much
is all that’s served in this appropriately named old, cosy, and a glass of tasty wine or the popular Stiegl beer. more than sushi; there are
On Sundays the restaurant offers a superb brunch
corner tavern, along with sides of coleslaw and disappointing
mayonnaise-filled potato salad. The crisp, salty skin gives Indian with free-flowing Schlumberger sparkling wine. Every
soups and a wide range of
asian meat and fish dishes, all
you another reason for quaffing yet another beer. For €6, you Amar I-4, Schesische Str. 9, MSchlesisches Tor, tel. 69 Thursday from 21:00 participate in the traditional Hüt- with crackling fresh ingredi-
get a lot of wood-panelled atmosphere. QOpen . Closed 56 66 73, www.amar-berlin.de. A large, cosy restaurant tengaudi fun as the restaurant gets into apres ski party ents. Sushi is also as fresh as
Mon. Open Tues-Sat from 19:00; Sun from 17:00; Closed with modern furnishings, Indian elements and big windows mode, with snacks, DJs spinning ski hut hits and ski hut it can and should be. Photos
Mon. (€2-6). B overlooking the terrace, filled with eating locals and visitors games. On Friday and Saturday, slam down Stiegl beers on the menu make it easy to
in summertime. Amar serves attractive Indian weekday lunch at the late night parties. Check No Kangaroos’ many choose what to have. A good
Kartoffel Pfanne F-5, Burgherrenstr. 11, MPlatz der menus from just €4.40, and delicious dinner courses, just as events, including Austrian movies, sports on screen place to sample a mix of fusion
Luftbrücke, tel. 892 59 49, www.kartoffelpfanne.de. A spicy as you need it to be. After dinner, the cocktail menu usu- and barbecue nights, on their website. food and DJ music. QOpen
sandwich sign on Kurfürstendamm sends peckish wander- ally convinces the young clientele to stay longer. One of the 12:00 - 24:00. (€2-9).
ers on the short detour down to the best-tasting potatoes most famous and beloved Restaurant for good Food, service, No Kangaroo H-4, Muskauer Straße 13, MGörlitzer
in Berlin. The Wiener Schnitzel includes a generous portion atmosphere and cheep prices.QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Fri, Bahnhof, tel. 65 79 96 30, info@nokangaroo.com,
of the spuds. A single serving of vanilla pudding with Rote Sat 12:00 - 02:00. www.nokangaroo.com.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri &
Grütze (fruit sauce) can sweeten the palettes of lovebirds who Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 – 24:00.
have just polished off lamb medallions with garlic butter. The Amrit H-4, Oranienstr. 202, KB, MGörlitzer Bhf, tel. 28
good beer selection includes Warsteiner and Weihenstephan.
QOpen 11:30 - 22:00. (€4-12). B
88 48 40, www.amrit.de. Kreuzbergers love this restaurant,
and Amrit loves ‘em back with huge portions and free spiked Italian
mango juice shots at the end of the meal. Make reservations Gorgonzola Club H-4, Dresdener Str. 121, MKott-
Weltrestaurant Markthalle H-4, Pücklerstr. 34, for weekend nights and be ready for tight seating. This might busser Tor, tel. 6156473, www.gorgonzolaclub.de. An
KB, MGörlit zer Bahnhof, tel. 617 55 02, w w w. be the one Indian restaurant that doesn’t serve Chana Saag In Your Pocket favourite, serving the best and biggest carpac-
weltrestaurant-markthalle.de. Within a historic market (chickpeas with spinach), but vegetarians can find other cio we’ve tried, and with lovely seating in the green outdoor
hall building, the Markthalle restaurant only 15 years old, combinations. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. courtyard. The prices for the fresh pastas, pizzas and other
yet already has such a rustic atmosphere. The room is Also at F-1, Oranienburger Str. 45, MI, and E-3, Winterfeldstr. dishes are by all means reasonable, and there are additional
long and tall, with wainscoting, simple wooden furniture 40, SB. (€7-14). ABS changing dinner options too. Next door to the Würgeengel bar.
and a bar that locals belly up to. It’s a restaurant that QOpen 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00.
doesn’t let its looks carry it: the kitchen takes pride in its
nouvelle takes on German and Austrian standards. The Sumo Osteria N°1 F-5, Kreuzbergerstr. 71, KB, MMehring-
menu changes weekly, but count on Spätzel, Schweine- damm, tel. 786 91 62, www.osteria-uno.de. Next to
A modern style two-floor asian restaurant engulfed in Viktoriapark, this neighbourhood fixture has a fantastic
DJ sounds offering fresh sushi and asian fusion food at Biergarten bordered by lemon, cherry and olive trees. Classic
Café Springfield affordable prices. See p. 43. regional cuisine is prepared by cooks from different parts of
Italy, and everything is made fresh to order. Order a pasta
A quirky little lunchtime café with Toscan hare ragout or salmon in orange sauce. Perhaps
in a couryard near the Axel the most child-friendly place in town, too. QOpen 12:00 -
Springer publishing complex. 24:00. (€7-17). AB
Enjoy the fresh soups, pasta
quiches and cakes on the Parlamento F-5, Bergmannstr. 3, KB, MMehringdamm,
sunny terrace. Everything on tel. 694 77 45. Even during the heat of the day, candles are
the menu is also available to lit in this welcomingly dark and cool entoteca-ristorante. The
go if you prefer to picnic in the wooden floors and tables are worn, and beyond the tall floral
park or at your desk. arrangements and angel wall fittings that dangle soft lights
there are many rustic touches to the place. The 3-course
Café Springfield, Axel- meal served until 19:00 is a steal: €5,95 including water.
Springer - Straße 39, The gnocchi and herb butter are homemade and beyond
MKochstr. Open Mon-Fri traditional Italian preparations of fish, meat, and pastas,
11:00-17:00. nouvelle cuisine slips into creations such as mango pepper
soup. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (€7-15). B

Hoppetosse I-5, Eichenstr. 4, KB, MSchlesisches Tor, Sage Club H-4, Köpenicker Str. 76, KB, MHeinrich-
tel. 53 32 03 40, www.moneypennys-club.de. There’s Heine-Str., tel. 278 98 30, www.sage-club.de. The drag
nothing like cooling off from a dance floor by walking one flight queen managing the velvet ropes may not be representative
to a roof with a view. Here, it’s the deck of a docked boat of the scene inside (button-down shirts and tight tank-tops,
on the Spree. In sight upstream are the Oberbaumbrücke all worn in the gender-specific way), but you’re welcome to
and Universal Music headquarters. Thursday is reggae, dress cross-gender anyway. Rock, punk, and metal duke it out
ragga, and dancehall night; genres alternate from Friday to on Thursday, while Friday and Saturday bring out the house
Saturday. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun fans. Q Open Thu-Sun 23:00 - 05:00.
11:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon.
SO36 H-4, Oranienstr. 190, KB, MGörlitzer Bahnhof, tel.
Milchbar H-4, Manteufelstr. 41, KB, MGörlitzer Bah- 61 40 13 06, www.so36.de. Live bands perform nearly ev-
nhof, www.milchbar-berlin.de. It is the foam of beer that ery night at this institution that’s home to any alternative life-
lines the upper lip of patrons of Milchbar, home to punks, style, from gay Turks and metal heads to punks and hardcore
students, and aging alternative types still loyal to the vegans. On popular club nights, like the gay Electric Ballroom
sounds of punk, ska, thrash, and hard rock. The crowd is or Gayhane, show up before 01:00 or face a long wait with
not so anarchic as to not want to cheer on their teams when the friendly door staff. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. E
football games are screened. The murals and dark décor can
heighten your wooziness if you’ve had one round too many. Spindler & Klatt H-4, Köpenicker Straße 16, KB,
QOpen 17:00 - 03:00. MSchlesisches Tor, tel. 69 56 67 75, www.spindlerklatt. or dartboard while choosing one (or more of) of 50 whiskeys
de. Set in a century-old Prussian state bakery building, this and 8 draught beers. The pub grub is great; on Thursday it’s
Salon Schmück I-4, Skalitzer Str. 80, MSchlesisches “bigsize clubrestaurant” is the newest hot place for horizontal all you can eat spare ribs for €8.88. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00.
Tor, tel. 69 00 47 75. A crash-pad style neighbourhood eating and making moves on the dancefloor. Lie down on the Closed Mon.
café that looks like a time-warp from the 1970s with its oversized beds of the restaurant while you sample the Asian
Murray’s Irish Bar G-3,
Latin American funky furniture. The food is fresh however, and you can dig
into breakfast, lunch and fantastic home-made juice - just
fusion food, followed up by clubbing to the latest Berlin sounds.
The entrance, a gate that looks accidentally open, is 100 me- Erkelenzdamm 49, KB,
Que Pasa H-4, Skalitzer Str. 107, MGörlitzer Bahnhof, make your own selection of fruit. Come evening and there tres south from the street number address. Walk straight back MKottbusser Tor, tel. 22 49
tel. 81 49 26 14, www.quepasa.at. Mexican food lovers are cocktails and DJs, and even the occasional living room to the riverside and turn left. Q Restaurant open Thurs-Sat 50 54, www.murraysbar.de.
this is your new spot! Que Pasa serves sizzling fajitas, enchi- concert. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. 20:00 - 01:00; Club open Fri.-Sat. from 23:00. A popular and cosy Irish den
ladas, burritos as well as the traditional plate of nachos and with pub food, live music on
all of these all time favorites taste just as you would imagine Würgeengel H-4, Dresdener Str. 122, MKottbusser Watergate I-4, Falckensteinstr. 49a, KB, MSchlesis- Fridays and Saturdays, pub
if not better. During dinner be sure to try one or two of their Tor, tel. 6155560, www.wuergeengel.de. Pronounced ches Tor, www.water-gate.de. This club right on the edge quizes, spor ts on several
many fabulous cocktails for the best price in town €3,50. ‘woor-ge-en-gel’ and named after Bunuel’s film “El Ángel Exter- of the Spree River is great for spying on Universal Music screens just a short walk from
The atmosphere is also festive with Mayan paintings on the minador”, this dark brown bar is a great place for a drink and headquarters across the water, even if the crowd here would Kottbusser Tor station.QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00
walls and doorways. Q Mon-Thu from 15:00, Fri/Sat from a snack. The tapas list has a dozen tasty options, while the never dance to their pop artists. Also in view (and right next - 01:00. Opens up one hour later in April. (€3-15). EB
12:00, Sun from 10:00. cocktail menu has over 50 reasons to delay your departure. door) is the turreted Oberbaumbrücke, which makes an odd
To round it all off, there are Cuban and other cigars to enjoy. backdrop to drum n’ bass (Fridays), house, or any guest DJ on
Q Open from 19:00. the upper or lower dance floors. Q Admission €7-10.
Bars
Freischwimmer I-5, Vor dem Schlesischen Tor 2a,
KB, MSchlesisches Tor, tel. 61 07 43 09, www. Clubs Wild at Heart H-5, Wiener Str. 20, KB, MGörlitzer Bah-
nhof, tel. 610 74 701, www.wildatheartberlin.de. Rock
Yorckschlösschen
freischwimmer-berlin.de. After a five-minute walk south
of Schlesisches Tor, follow the bush-lined pathway left after
Junction Bar F-5, Gneisenaustr. 18, KB, MGneisenaustr.,
tel. 694 66 02, www.junction-bar.de. Squeezing onto the
on. One of Berlin’s rare live-music venues brings in hardcore
and punk bands touring the planet. There’s an occasional DJ
Home of Jazz & Blues
the petrol station to this peaceful bar that hovers over a side bat-cave of a stage is fine for a four-man blues band, but Dios night as well. Booths and seating in the front rooms make
canal. Heat lamps help keep away the chill, but with winter mio for the 10-piece Afro-Cuban ensembles. Live music draws conversation manageable. Bring earplugs for the stage area.
upon us, head indoors and find a cosy table. QOpen 16:00 an ethnically and generationally mixed audience every night of QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. E
- 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. the week. After the band, a DJ keeps everyone tight on the dance
floor. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00, Fri,
Sat 22:00 - 04:00. E Jazz clubs
Yorckschlösschen F-5,
Kato I-4, Underneath U-Bahn Yorckstr. 19, MMehring-
station Schlesisches Tor, damm, tel. 215 80 70, www.
MSchlesisches Tor, tel. 611 yorckschloesschen.de. A
23 39, www.kato-x-berg.com. Kreuzberg institution, the
This place is right underneath Yorckschlösschen (‘small Yorck
the Schlesisches Tor train sta- castle’) has been here for over
tion but don’t worry - you will not a century, gathering fame in the
hear or feel the steel wheels 1970s as an artists’ watering
roar over head... as you will be hole and now a hub of local social life. Inside, there’s a busy bar
engulfed in the sounds sounding that features regular live music, with the emphasis on traditional Yorckstrasse 19
around you. So really anything jazz, swing and black rhythm’n’blues. Free concerts take place
goes and can happen... from Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays from 21:00, Sundays from 10965 Berlin
punk to electro and from jazz 14:00. Diner is nicely priced, with most dishes well under €11.Q Open Sun-Thu 17:00-3:00
noises to exploding frog death Sun-Thu 17:00-03:00, Fri/Sat 17:00-04:00.
coupon for metal music. The main hall is an Fri/Sat 17:00-4:00
tel: 2158070
1 draft beer
integral part of main indie band’s
tours from all around the world. Pubs
Look out for posters on the walls Dunmore Cave H-5, Maybach Ufer 44, NK, MSchön- www.yorckschloesschen.de
or just go and see what may leinstr., tel. 624 12 41. On the Landwehr Canal that’s used
happen to you... and try not to by many strollers and joggers, this mellow pub doesn’t see
get run over! many tourists. Locals use the Ethernet connection, pool table

48 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 49
it as their drawing card. The square’s name stems from the

Essential Berlin mid-1700s when military regiments were stationed here. The Ticket options (Alte Nationalgalerie, Altes Museum, Bodemuseum, or
Pergamonmuseum), buy the CityTourCard Museumsinsel
Deutscher Dom (tel. 22 73 04 31) is home to a museum on
Berlin is a huge, fascinating city, but lacks a real Old Discounts are a welcome relief, so if you are planning (€29,90; valid 72 hours, AB zone). Also includes the benefits
the development of the German Parliamentary system, not
Town-type area. Attractions are fairly far-flung, so plan on seeing more than one museum, pick up one of these of the standard CityTourCard.
dull at all if you’re a politics buff. You’ll have to read German
your itinerary and get acquainted with the excellent public or French to enjoy the Französischer Dom’s (tel. 229 17 60) reduced rate cards.
transporation. If you’re here for a limited amount of time, exhibit on the contributions of French Huguenots to Berlin’s
Get2riCard, tel. 438 09 80, www.get2card.de. A card
we recommend you join one of the walking tours to get CityTourCard, www.citytourcard. that allows you to get two for the price of one, whether it’s the
development, beginning in the late 1600s. Q Deutscher
your bearings and see the main sights. com. The CityTourCard is good for admission to a club, museum, cinema or to a show, nights at
Dom open 10:00-18:00, closed Monday.
Classic sights include the Brandenburger Tor and the unlimited travel in the AB zone or ABC a hostel or hotel, or food and drinks at a wide range of bars
nearby Reichstag with its glass dome, the Berliner zone (including Potsdam) for 48 hours and restaurants. Check out the possibilities online. The tourist
Neue Synagoge F-3, Oranienburger Str. 28-30, MI, MO- version of the card is valid for seven days and costs €20.
Dom (the main cathedral), the museum-churches and ranienburger Tor, tel. 88 02 84 51, www.cjudaicum.de. (€15,50/17,50), 72 hours (€20,50/23)
concert house on Gendarmenmarkt and the Neue Though not worth the extra admission charge or the wait to stand or 5 days (€28,90/33,90). It offers
Synagoge. Fans of modern architecture shouldn’t miss inside it, the gilded cupola of the New Synagogue is one of the discounts of 20% or more at over 50 State Museum Card, www.museen-berlin.de. The
the Potsdamer Platz area and the Jewish Museum. tourist attractions like sights, muse- Staatliche Museen zu Berlin (state museums) have several
most eye-catching sights in Mitte. Exhibits strikingly balance the
Finally, you can’t leave Berlin without a peek at one of ums, tours, and theatres. Buy the card at the CityTourCard ticket options for their permanent collections. A single ticket
restoration of the Alhambra-inspired synagogue from 1866, with
the remnants of the Wall and the ruin of the Kaiser online shop, or at any BVG or S-Bahn ticket machine or ranges €4-8. You can buy a €19/9.50 Schaulust three-day
preserved evidence of its destruction, first on Kristallnacht on
Wilhelm Memorial Church. counter; if you use a machine, collect the booklet free from ticket valid for all state museums (but remember all are
November 9, 1938, and then through Allied bombs. Documents
any other salespoint. closed on Mondays). There are groups of state museums
and photographs remember the thriving Jewish community of
For free admission to all mu- in several neighbourhoods, and a Bereich-karte (area card,
Main sights the neighbourhood, many of whom worshipped here in what was
the largest synagogue in Germany. A subtle but effective sound seums on the Museumsinsel €6-12) grants admission to those near each another; a
ticket for all the museums on the Museum Island costs
Berliner Dom G-3, Am Lustgarten, MI, MHackescher installation adds to the experience. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri
€14/7. Admission is free for under-16s and for all visitors
Markt, tel. 20 26 91 36, www.berlinerdom.de. This Prot- 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat. Admission €4.60/3.
during the last four opening hours on Thursdays.
estant church dating from 1905 might not look as massive
were the Stadtschloss still standing across Unter den Linden Nikolaiviertel G-3, Between Rathausstr. and Mühlendamm, Welcome Card, www.btm.de. The WelcomeCard is
(the GDR regime demolished the city castle in 1951). The royal MI, MAlexanderpl., www.stadtmuseum.de. Berlin’s tiny
a combined transport and reduction card valid for zone
Hohenzollern dynasty worshipped here within the four incarna- medieval heart is the Nikolai Quarter, whose only truly medieval-
AB or zone ABC (includes Potsdam and both airports) for
tions of the church. Their places of rest in the crypt are indeed looking building today is the Nikolaikirche (the twin-spired, stone
48 hours (€16,50/18,50), 72 hours (€22/25) or 5 days
a yawn. The climb up to the dome’s rim is forgiving, with broad church). The church dates to 1230 and was rebuilt along with the
(€29,50/34,50). The card offers reduced admission to
staircases, landings, and side exhibit rooms. QOpen 09:00 entire quarter in the mid-80s to mark Berlin’s 750th birthday in
several museums, bike tours and rental, boat tours, etc. The
- 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Admission €5/3. the area in which the fishermen’s settlement first began. No one
Welcome Card is sold at tourist offices, S-Bahn offices, hotels
was trying to outdo Walt Disney here, and many of the buildings
and kiosks. Students/youths may get better reductions at
Brandenburger Tor F-3, Pariser Pl, MI, MUnter den have the simple, concrete facades that the Communist govern-
museums using their student cards.
Linden. Berlin’s landmark building is one of 14 gates com- ment could afford. The small shops in the area mostly deal in
pleted in 1792 by Carl Langhans. Nike, the goddess of victory, toys and souvenirs and tourists gladly fill the sunny tables at the
drives the chariot atop the gate, and German armies used to restaurants that face the Spree River. On Rathausstraße, there’s
begin their parades here. The proud gate opens onto Pariser a row of restaurants that flaunt old-fashioned Berlin cuisine and Reichstag/Bundestag F-3, Platz der Republik 1, TG, Bauhaus Archiv D-4, Klingelhöferstr. 14, TG, MNol-
Platz, and it may as well have been built by the communists, atmosphere. Other rebuilt historic buildings in the area date to the MUnter den Linden, tel. 22 73 21 52, www.bundestag. lendorfplatz, tel. 254 00 20, www.bauhaus.de. Sick of
so linked in people’s minds is it to the double-wall system that 1700s, such as the Ephraim-Palais and Knoblauchhaus. Both have de/htdocs_e/visitors. The name together with its monu- centuries of decorative design, a group of young architects
essentially bricked it in. Fascists spoiled the gate as well by changing exhibits related to Berlin. mental size make most people associate Germany’s neoclas- in Dessau under Walter Gropius started the Bauhaus move-
staging their torch-lit parades through it. Berliners celebrated sical parliamentary building with the Nazis, but Hitler and his ment, believing firmly that by bringing design (and foremostly
the Wall’s fall in 1989 by standing on it in front of the gate. Potsdamer Platz E/F-4,, MPotsdamer Pl.. Once the party have little history here. After hosting parliamentary ses- the architecture and furnishing of homes) back to the basics
modern heart of a thriving metropolis, this urban centre sions since 1894, one month after Hitler was appointed chan- would improve life. The group was joined by big names such
Gedächtniskirche (Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial was heavily damaged in the war, and suffered again when cellor in January 1933, it was set on fire by Dutch communist as Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky, Ludwig Mies van der Rohe,
Church) D-4, Breitscheidpl, CB, MKurfürstendamm, remaining buildings were pulled down to make way for the Marinus van der Lubbe. In the years during which it abutted and was influenced by Piet Mondriaan and Marc Chagall.
tel. 218 50 23, www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. The Wall’s death strip. After years of construction in the mid-90s, the Wall as a conference centre, West Berliners played football Bauhaus’ top years were in the late 1920s. Soon after, Nazi
major attraction in what was West Berlin is this stark reminder skyscrapers have added a cosmopolitan and glassy edge to on its lawn, while later artist Christo famously wrapped it in politics put an end to the liberties of the group, which was
of World War II’s destruction. Kept as an open wound, the the city. The literal Potsdamer Platz is an intersection, and cloth. It did not serve as parliament again until a reunited branded ‘culturally bolshevistic’ and it was forced to move
severe acknowledgement of German culpability is declared on the east side of it, known as Leipziger Platz, is slowly building German government returned to Berlin in 1999. Renovated to Berlin. Many members emigrated to the USA before the
a plaque near the entrance of the old bell tower: ‘The tower of up in height as well. Potsdamer Platz’s most popular public by Sir Norman Foster, this building is perhaps the most public war broke out, and work was continued there. This museum
the old church serves as a remembrance of God’s judgment, space and architectural attraction is The Sony Center, with federal building in the world through its glass-dome tourist holds a large room with examples of Bauhaus interiors,
which befell our people during the war years.’ Berliners hold its huge atrium and tent-like roof. It’s best to view at night attraction. On the rooftop, photographs documenting the models of buildings and a collection of original furniture,
little sacred and call the destroyed tower the hollow tooth. for its impressive lighting. The neighbouring DaimlerChrysler building’s history circle the rim above the parliament chamber. including Marcel Breuer’s famous 1926 steel tube chair.
The erection of the once enormous church dedicated to the complex holds architecture by Renzo Piano and Richard Rog- Two ramps spiral up the side of the dome, an engineering feat Bauhaus’ influence on everyday design is immense - after
German emperor had been a feat of national pride: even syna- ers, and the Arkaden shopping mall, with rather humdrum even more fascinating than the panoramic view from the top. a visit here, you’ll start noticing it everywhere. QOpen
gogues contributed to its funding, and it was first opened in shops, but the best gelato café in the city. Avoid long queues by arriving early or late, or by booking at 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission Wed-Fri €6/3, Sat-
1895. Inside is a gilded mosaic of the Hohenzollern dynasty. the Dachgarten restaurant. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Last Mon €7/4 (including audio guide in German, English, French,
The modern chapel and tower next door were completed in admission at 22:00. Admission free. Italian or Spanish).
1961, and are worth entering on sunny days for the amazing Tourist information
blue stained glass windows. Q Old tower open 10:00 - 16:00, Berlinische Galerie G-4, Alte Jakobstr. 124-128, KB,
closed Sun. Memorial church open 09:00 - 19:00. Berlin Infostore E-2, Hauptbahnhof station, tel. 25
Museums MHallesches Tor, tel. 78 90 26 00, www.berlinisch-
00 25, www.berlin-tourist-information.de. The help- Because of its long period of separation, Berlin in effect egalerie.de. This museum for modern art, photography,
Gendarmenmarkt F-3, Charlottenstr, MI, MFranzö- ful staff at the official Berlin tourist offices can provide a has two cities’ worth of museums, and the quality is architecture, and artist archives concentrates 120 years
sische Str.. Twin cathedrals-turned-museums (dating to wide range of information and publications. Most offices proportional to the quantity. The state museums, many worth of creativity forged in Berlin. Artists represent the
the early 1700s) and the Konzerthaus (from 1818, by Carl will stay open longer than normal this summer. QOpen clustered on Museumsinsel (Museum Island), at the Secession, Expressionist, Dada, New Objectivity movements,
Langhans) make up this classic square in Berlin. It’s so 08:00 - 22:00. Also at F-2, Reichstag kiosk; F-2, Bran- Kulturforum next to Potsdamer Platz, and near Schloß and those representing divided Berlin. Giants of German art
classic Berlin that with the adding of a lion statue here, a denburger Tor (south wing, open 10:00 - 18:00); D-3, Charlottenburg, include audio guides and have a combined include Heinrich Zille, Otto Dix, George Grosz, Hannah Höch
fountain there, the film production team of Jackie Chan’s Budapester Str. (Europa Centre); C-3, Kurfürstendamm ticket system (see the ticket options). The free Museum and Wolf Vostell. A much-needed addition to the museum
Around the World in Eighty Days turned it into 19th-century 21 (passage). infoline (tel. 90 26 99 444) has all details about all Berlin scene. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission €6/3.
London in 2003. Luxury hotels use their position bordering museums. Every 1st Monday of the month: €2.

Jewish Museum F-4, Lindenstr. 9-14, KB, MHallesches Neue Nationalgalerie E-4, Potsdamer Str. 50, TG,
Tourist Information Centre Tor, tel. 25 99 33 00, www.jmberlin.de. The famous zinc- Art Center Berlin MPotsdamer Pl., tel. 266 26 51, www.museen-berlin.
plated fortress designed by Daniel Libeskind contains a de. You’d think that the art world had gone to minimalist ex-
Prenzlauer Berg is the first district in Berlin with its own moving perspective on the many ways in which German life Berlin’s largest exhibition space tremes when passing Mies van der Rohe’s empty glass box
tourist information centre, inside the Kulturbrauerei and Jewish history are intricately interwoven. The interior for international art hosts some of a museum; the 20th century treasures are all underground.
complex near the Eberswalderstrasse U-Bahn station. contains dark ‘voids’ for contemplation, but the exhibits cover of the most interesting shows in It was here that the wildly successful “MoMA in Berlin” exhibit
The staff can book accommodation and inform you about much more than the Holocaust chapter of Jewish history in town right opposite the Friedrich- was on view 24 hours during its last three days. Now that the
events in the area, nightlife, guided walks, and about what Germany. All texts are also in English. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, stadtpalast theatre and a short guest exhibit is gone, the permanent collection greats: Otto
to see in Prenzlauer Berg. The centre is also involved in Mon 10:00 - 22:00. Admission €5/2.50, changing exhibitions walk from the Museum Island. Dix, Georg Grotz, Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky, Picasso and
erecting German and English-language signs €4/2; combined ticket €7/3.50. The full range of modern art is Leger, among others, can make themselves at home again.
throughout the district with information for visitors. available, from paintings and QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00
Visit their English-language website before exploring Kennedy Museum F-3, Pariser Platz 4a, MI, MUnter sculptures to photography and - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/3.
the area. den Linden, tel. 20 65 35 70, www.thekennedys.de. On video art. Most exhibits are for
TIC Prenzlauer Berg, G-1, Schönhauser Allee 36, 26 June 1963, US President John F. Kennedy visited Berlin. He sale, and there’s a café in the Photography museum (Helmut New ton Stif-
Maschinenhaus in der Kulturbrauerei, tel. 44 35 peered over the Wall at Brandenburger Tor, and, impressed complex for contemplating which tung) C-4, Jebensstr. 2, CB, MZoologischer Garten,
21 70, www.tic-berlin.de.Q Open 12:00 – 18:00, after looking totalitarianism in the eyes, scribbled some contempory piece to take home. tel. 20 90 55 55. The late fashion photographer Helmut
Thu-Sat 12:00 – 20:00. last-minute amendments to his famous speech. This note See p. 11 for more information. Newton fled Berlin with his Jewish family in the 1930s but
with the phonetically spelled words Ish bin ein Bearliener his love for his hometown remained. Berlin has the honour
is now on display, together with the suitcase he held when Art Center Berlin, Friedrichstrasse 134 (opposite of giving him his final resting place this year, as well as
Bröhan Museum B-3, Schloßstr. 1a, CB, MSophie- he was shot in Texas a few months later, and hundreds of the Friedrichstadtpalast), tel. 27 87 90 27, www. opening this new museum, made up of 1,000 photographs
Charlotte-Pl., tel. 32 69 06 00, www.broehan-museum. photos documenting the Kennedy family’s history. QOpen art-center-berlin.de. Open daily from 11:00 to 21:00, he donated to the city before his death. Only 250 works
de. A stellar collection of art deco, art nouveau, and art and 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €7/3,50. admission €2,50-5. will be on view at a time. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
craft design awakens post-modern sensibilities, blunted by Mon. Admission €6.
so much IKEA and minimalism, to craftsmanship, whimsy Märkisches Museum (City Museum) G-3, Am Köll-
and indulgent beauty. In addition to the permanent collec- nischen Park 5, MMärkisches Museum, tel. 24 00 21 Museum für Asiatische Kunst (Asian art museum) Sammlung Berggruen B-3, Schloßstr. 1, CB, MSo-
tion (spanning 1889-1939) of porcelain, lamps, vases, and 62, www.stadtmuseum.de. Berlin’s city museum is set in Lansstraße 8, Berlin- Dahlem, MDahlem-Dorf, tel. 830 phie-Charlotte-Pl., tel. 326 95 80, www.museen-berlin.
furnishings, are paintings, including those by Peter Behrens an impressive purpose-built complex emulating local archi- 14 38, www.smb.museum. Alongside special exhibitions de. Picasso fans should not miss this collection. The artist’s
and Bruno Paul, as well as special exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 tectural styles and donned with a brick tower. Inside, Berlin’s dealing with everything from Qing-dynasty painting to archi- blue and red periods are well represented, as are portraits of
- 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5/4. cultural history with exhibitions about diverse aspects of life in tecture, this museum has an impressive permanent collection his lovers. Providing variety are works by Matisse and Klee.
the city is displayed in 50 rooms. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Wed of Indian, Chinese, Japanese and Korean art and archaeology. After the audio guide’s voice gives the interpretation of a work,
Deutsche Guggenheim F-3, Unter den Linden 13-15, 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4/2, Wed free. Each tradition has its own gallery, and in the centre, a room you sometimes hear the brittle with age, German accent
MI, MFranzösische Str., tel. 202 09 30, www.deutsche- dedicated to Buddhist art. Chinese and Japanese painting of collector Heinz Berggruen himself, sharing an anecdote
guggenheim-berlin.de. Distancing itself as far as possible Martin-Gropius-Bau F-4, Niederkirchnerstr. 7, KB, and calligraphy are of special interest, as well as Japanese regarding the artists he knew personally. QOpen 10:00 -
from the conservative financial image, Deutsche Bank in a MPotsdamer Pl., tel. 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de. woodcuts. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8/€4.
unique joint venture with the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foun- Dusty pink brick, gilded mosaics, stucco work run riot - this is Closed Mon. Admission €6/3.
dation, hosts world renowned contemporary artists in solo the work of Great Uncle Gropius, not Walter ‘Bauhaus’ Gropius.
shows in this exhibition space designed by Richard Gluckman.
Four annual art exhibitions span classic modernism to con-
Completed in 1881, the beauty once held an arts and crafts
museum and nothing on the touristy block can hold a candle to
Museum für Film und Fernsehen E-4, Potsdamer Str.
2 (Sony Center), TG, MPotsdamer Pl., tel. 300 90 30,
IMAX3D Sony Center
temporary works. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. it. Today the Martin-Gropius-Bau hosts excellent touring shows. www.filmmuseum-berlin.de. Hooray for Hollywood, but Get right into the action with the
Admission €4/3, free Mon. Free guided tours at 18:00. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission €7.50/6. remember that some of the personalities that gave it glamour IMAX experience. Wherever they
and style came from Germany. Actors Marlene Dietrich and take you, the combination of
Deutsches Historisches Museum F-3, Unter den Peter Lorre, directors Billy Wilder and Josef von Sternberg the towering IMAX screen and
Linden 2, MI, MHackescher Markt, tel. 20 30 40, www.
dhm.de. Who’d have thought to look for a Prussian war chest
Berliner Residenz Orchestra came out of a country with a strong film-making tradition.
Photo stills, footage, set designs and costumes provide
superb cinematography is awe-
inspiring. The lounge chairs on
in this early 18th-century building sitting pretty-in-pink by the The Berliner Residenz Orchestra plays the best works of glimpses of the familiar, and exhibits on Leni Riefenstahl’s the balcony with a view of the spectacular Sony Center
Spree? This former arsenal houses the German History Mu- Johann Sebastian Bach, Friedrich the Great, Luigi Boc- shooting of Olympia (1936) and Nazi entertainment c.q. are also a perfect spot to take a little break from sight-
seum, with its dazzling new extension designed by architect cherini, Georg Friedrich Händel and Wolfgang Amadeus propaganda films will impress ‘seen-that’ film buffs. The mu- seeing, enjoy a cup of coffee, and to relax your feet while
I.M. Pei. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €5. Mozart, dressed in period costumes and playing by seum ends with special effects and science fiction. QOpen waiting for the show to begin.
candlelight. Prior to the concert it’s possible to enjoy a 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission
Gemäldegalerie E-4, Matthäikirchpl. 8, TG, MPotsdamer baroque-style dinner, with the hall lit up by 500 candles. €6, audioguide free. The new animated Dreamworks film Monsters vs Aliens
Pl., tel. 266 29 51, www.museen-berlin.de. Berlin’s largest Guests can combine a baroque night out with a tour of is a crazy adventure whereby a bunch of loony monsters
art museum has 72 rooms full of works spanning the 13th to Charlottenburg castle or a trip on the river Spree. Con- Naturkundemuseum (Natural history museum) sets out to rid the planet of aliens – great fun for young
18th centuries. German masters include Dürer, Cranach the Elder, certs up to 6 times weekly until January 2010. Dinner F-2, Invalidenstr. 43, tel. 20 93 85 91, www.naturkun- and old. The 3D-documentary Dolphins and Whales
and Holbein. The Italian works of Botticelli, Titian, Raphael and starts at 18:00, concert at 20:30. Admission €29-65. demuseum-berlin.de. All the wonders of nature under one takes us into the depths of the seas to learn more about
others are from the 13th to 16th century, those of the Dutch from Große Orangerie, Schloss Charlottenburg, Spandauer roof; a grand collection illustrating the evolution of life as well the world of dolphins, whales, seacows and orcas in the
the 15th and 16th centuries. The Rembrandt collection, one of Damm 22-24. For tickets and information, contact tel. as the diversity and beauty of nature. Due to renovations, oceans around the Bahamas and Tonga.
the world’s largest, has 16 works. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 25 81 03 50 or www.concerts-berlin.com. the largest mounted dinosaur in the world and some of his
10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8/€4. friends are off-limits, but then there’s still the aardvarks, the IMAX F-3, Sony Center, Potsdamer Str. 4, tel. 26 06
early 20th-century dioramas, meteorites, the most famous 64 00, www.cinestar-imax.de. Tickets €8.50/6.70,
Hamburger Bahnhof E-2, Invalidenstr. 50-51, TG, fossil of Earth history (the ancient bird Archaeopteryx litho- Tue €6.70.
MLehrter Bahnhof, tel. 39 78 34 12, www.hamburger- graphica), giant shells and the gorilla Bobby from the primates
bahnhof.de. If trains still stopped in this converted station, hall. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
now a modern art museum, it surely would have more visitors. Mon. Admission €6/€3.50.
But those curious about the expressiveness of a sculpture
made of animal tallow (Joseph Beuys) or urban dwellers fix-
ated by bars of neon lighting (Dan Flavin) should make the
effort to get here. Andy Warhol and Marcel Duchamp are the
other familiar stars of this post-1960s collection. QOpen www.inyourpocket.com
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission €8/4.

Schloss Charlottenburg A-3, Spandauer Damm 20-24, Technical Museum (Deutsches Technikmu-
The Museumsinsel museums CB, MRichard-Wagner-Platz, Sophie-Charlotte-Pl., tel. 32 seum) F-4, Trebbiner Str. 9, MGleisdreieck, tel.
09 14 40, www.museen-berlin.de. The largest royal resi- 90 25 40, www.dtmb.de. Unmistakably recognisable
The cluster of majestic nineteenth century neoclassic buildings dence in Berlin is Schloss Charlottenburg, named for Prussia’s from the U-Bahn by the Douglas C-47 plane suspended
on the tip of the island in the Spree makes the trip worthwhile in first queen. Though it began as a modest summer palace in ab ove th e new aeronau tics buildin g, this is a hu ge
itself, although the works inside are not to be missed. Whether 1695, today’s version, distinguished by its 505-meter length complex set in and around an old freight station rail
you want to visit one or all, Museuminsel offers the avid or the and central tower, took its final form in 1790. You can tour the depot, with technical exhibitions, a science centre, and
temperate museum-goer a number of impressive collections luxurious and largely Rococo and Baroque apartments where a park with a Dutch windmill and a brewer y. Q Open
of art, history and ethnology, covering many facets of ancient an eye-glazing number of royal Friedrichs and Wilhelms resided. 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
and oriental culture, as well as their cross-overs into modernity. Also here is the largest collection of 18th century French paint- Admission €4.50/2.50.
One of the museums is closed for long-term renovations, ing outside France plus a beautiful Baroque garden landscape,
but the Bodemuseum has been gathering interest since its
reopening in October 2006. Admission to the museums is
mausoleum, and Belvedere teahouse with a porcelain exhibi-
tion. Arriving via bus N°109 or 210 will save you a 15-minute Sightseeing tours
free during the last four hours on Thursday. walk from any of the nearest S- and U-Bahn stations. Q Open It’s unnarrated, but the cheapest tour through town is
Old Palace 09:00 - 17:00. New Wing 10:00 - 17:00. Closed on buses N°100 and 200. These public double-decker
Alte Nationalgalerie G-3, Bodestr. 1-3, MI, MHack- Mon. Admission Old Palace €10, New Wing €6. buses run between Zoo Bahnhof and Alexanderplatz,
escher Markt, tel. 20 90 55 77, www.smb.museum. with the N°100 passing the Tiergarten and Reichstag
Cézanne, Rodin, Monet, Degas and Liebermann are some of Story of Berlin C-4, Kurfürstendamm 207-208, CB, and the N°200 taking a slightly more southern route
the artists whose works hang around this museum of 19th- MUhlandstr., tel. 88 72 01 00, www.story-of-berlin.de. via the embassy area and Potsdamer Platz before con-
century art. Head to the top floor for the German Romantics. For those whose eyes glaze over every time they step into a verging on Unter den Linden. A two hour tour (€18) on
The temple-like structure itself was built in 1876, and is sur- museum, the bells, whistles, films, and original artifacts of this the yellow, double-decker City Circle bus runs every
rounded by a beautifully battered collonade. QOpen 10:00 multimedia museum are sure to engage your attention and 15 minutes. Select your language of choice for the
- 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8/4. leave you better informed about the city’s turbulent history. recorded narration piped in through headphones. You
In the corridors covering the Nazi era, you walk over book can jump on and off at the 14 stops between 10:00 -
Altes Museum G-3, Am Lustgarten, MI, MHackescher bindings, hearing footsteps tread on broken glass. Lest you 18:00. Kur fürstendamm 216 and Alexanderplatz are
Markt, tel. 20 90 55 77, www.smb.museum. This end on the positive note of Berlin’s reunification, you can take the two starting points.
neoclassic building by Prussia’s star architect Karl Friedrich a guided tour of the functional nuclear fallout shelter beneath
Schinkel was custom-made for the art collection of the royal the complex, built to shelter 3000 people for 14 days - there Air Service Berlin Schönefeld airport, tel. 60 91
Hohenzollerns of Berlin in 1830. Classical antiquities became were no plans for what to do after that period. Though pricey, 37 30/0180-570 87 08, www.air-service-berlin.de.
the focus in 1904, and today the ground floor of the museum this is probably the best museum to visit with children, though If you’re a closet balloonist, or always had a special place
uses pottery and sculptures to take you on a well-presented mind to leave the bunker before they play the recording of in your heart for the DC-3, Air Service Berlin will sweep
tour through ancient Greek history. Upstairs is the temporary a WWII bombing-raid. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Admission you off your feet. You can go for an hour-long aerial tour of
home to the Egyptian Museum (same ticket). QOpen 10:00 €9.80/€8. Last admission and bunker tour at 18:00. town (€99) in a beautifully restored 1944 Dakota DC-3,
- 18:00, Wed 10:00.22:00. Admission €8/4. the plane that helped Berliners beat the Soviet blockade,
and that is a familiar sight in Berlin’s skies. You can also
Bode Museum G-3, Monbijoubrücke, MI, MHack- tour the city by waterplane (starting from I-4, Treptower
escher Markt, tel. 266 36 66, www.smb.museum. After Memorials Park), helicopter and zeppelin. If that isn’t enough, you can Madame Tussauds
a long restoration, the opulent Bode Museum has reopened, also go skydiving.
once again making available a variety of beautiful artefacts Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe F-3, A new outlet of the famous Madame Tussauds wax
ranging from sculpture and European painting collections, Ebertstr, corner Behrenstr, MI, MUnter den Linden, Berlin City Tour, tel. 68 30 26 41, www.berlin-city-tour. figure exhibitions opened on Berlin’s Unter den Linden
many religious and/or morbid, to the Byzantine wing, which of- www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. This bluntly named de. Doubledecker buses with live English commentary circle boulevard last summer. The show will present wax look-
fers insight into the daily life of a disappeared culture (including memorial avoids any vagueness surrounding the term Ho- the main sights all day. The full tour lasts 1hr 45mins. Hop alike statues of German and international celebrities
a popular contemporary gambling machine). QOpen 10:00 locaust. Six million Jews are estimated to have been killed on at Tauntzienstraße 16, Town Hall or Brandenburger Tor. ranging from Boris Becker, Albert Einstein, Will Smith and
- 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Admission €8/4. by the Nazis during the Holocaust and this site serves as Q Tickets €14/11/5. J-Lo to George Clooney. Naturally, the Berlin show also
Germany’s national memorial to those victims. The design has a figure of Madame Tussaud herself.
Egyptian Museum G-3, Am Lustgarten, MI, MHack- by American architect Peter Eisenmann consists of 2,700 Berlin Trails, tel. 34 76
escher Markt, tel. 20 90 55 77, www.smb.museum. concrete pillars of varying height, creating an undulating 64 64, tours@berlin-trails. The history of Madame Tussauds’ worldwide empire
Until the adjacent Neues Museum is finished in 2009, the landscape that fills two city blocks. The memorial has an com. See Berlin’s highlights started in Strasbourg with a woman named Marie
excellent Egyptian Museum and Papyrus Collection are undergound information centre. Q Memorial open 24 by bus - a small minivan with Tussaud, who used the fine art of making wax models
housed on the top floor of the Altes Museum building (ticket hours. Admission free. Information Centre open Tue-Sun your guide at the steering to create a travelling exhibition, a true sensation in the
valid for both). The best and most spectacular Egyptian 10:00-19:00 (Oct - March, last admission 18:15) and wheel, that is. Choose be- pre-photography era. She moved to England in the early
finds are displayed here, including the famous busts of Tue-Sun 10:00-20:00 (April - Sept, last admission 19:15). tween several tours, from a 1800s, travelling around for decades before taking up
Queen Nefertiti and King Echnaton. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Closed 24 to 26 Dec, 31 Dec and 1 Jan. 2,5hr classic city tour to the permanent residence in London’s Baker Street in 1835.
Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Admission €8/4. full-on 8hr tour that includes Her show was first mentioned in guidebooks in 1842, and
Neue Wache F-3, Unter den Linden 4, MI, bunkers and Stasi prisons. Pick-ups from hotels and tailor- after Tussauds’ death in 1850 her two sons continued
Pergamon Museum G-3, Am Kupfergraben, MI, MFriedrichstr.. Germany’s national war memorial made trips possible. the business, moving to Marylebone street where it still
MHackescher Markt, tel. 20 90 55 55, www.smb. is housed within the former royal guard house of the can be found today. Despite the loss of most figures in
museum. The Pergamon has the best of Berlin’s classical Prussians. The neoclassic building (1819) was the first Severin & Kühn, tel. 880 41 90, www.severin-kuehn- a 1925 fire and a German bomb destroying part of the
antiquities: the Greek Pergamon Altar, the market gate of commission the famed Karl Friedrich Schinkel received berlin.de. Big yellow doubledeckers depart every 15 minutes building in 1940 (ironically, the Hitler figure was one of
Miletus and the blue-tiled Ishtar Gate and processional in Berlin. The sole image inside is that of a woman to do a two-hour tour of the city with 14 stops where you the few still standing after the blast), Madame Tussauds
way from Babylon. The Pergamon Altar’s enormous frieze cradling her son, though the son is an adult and has can break the trip and reboard. You can combine the tour grew in popularity and opened its first foreign outlet
depicts the battle between the gods and the giants, with presumably lost his life on the battlefield. The sculpture with a river cruise for €26. Q Tickets €18. Buses run from in Amsterdam in 1971. Since then, outlets have been
gals like Athena, Aphrodite and Artemis wiping out their is an enlargement of a pieta by Käthe Kollwitz, a Berlin 10:00 - 15:00. opened in Las Vegas, New York, Hong Kong, Shanghai,
opponents like robed Charlie’s Angels. Near-East antiqui- artist who was the first woman to allowed membership Washington – and now Berlin.
ties, with an emphasis on Assyria and Iran, and Islamic
art, including the great Mshatta palace facade round
to the Prussian Academy of Art in 1919. The inscription
in front of the sculpture reads To the victims of war and Viewpoints Madame Tussauds, Unter den Linden 74, MI,
out the museum’s treasure chest. The audioguide has tyranny. Above it is an open skylight that was added in Berlin’s most visited viewpoint is the Reichstag dome MUnter den Linden, tel. 0180 554 58 00, berlin@
an instructive 30-minute highlights tour. QOpen 10:00 1931, when the building first became a war memorial. (see Main sights). Great views can be had from the casino madame-tussauds.com, www.madametussauds.
- 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Admission €8/4. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. on the top floor of the Park Inn hotel on Alexanderplatz. com/berlin.
For Food with a view see the Restaurants chapter.

Berlin Underworlds
The Berliner Unterwelten Association allows you to
experience Berlin´s history from an unusual perspec-
tive, through its underground installations dating back
to the Cold War, WWII or earlier. Though predominantly
in the spaces below Berlin´s Gesundbrunnen station,
tours are also offered in several other complexes
usually not accessible to the public. The various tours
are held every day, except Tuesday and Wednesday,
and most of the tours take place year round. With
prior notification, tours can be arranged for groups
at other times.
Tours in English:
Tour 1, Dark Worlds, a bunker from the Nazi era:
year round Thu-Mon at 11:00, April to October daily Brewer’s Berlin , tel. 22 48 74 35, www.brewers- Latlon Berlin, tel. 440 35 709, www.latlon-berlin.de.
at 11:00. Walking & Bike tours berlintours.com. Veteran guide Terr y Brewer (a former Tailor-made walking tours of Berlin executed by a team of 10
Tour 2, The Flak Tower Humboldthain, buried under There’s a story on every corner in Berlin, though you’ll need Cold War intelligence officer and official guide for the professional guides. Available in several languages.
rubble; Apr-Oct: Thu at 13:00. a guide to hear it. The following companies employ enthusi- Allied forces) and his team have dail y Classic Berlin
Tour 3, Subways, bunkers and the Cold War; Sat-Mon astic English-speaking expats. All offer a similar highlights and All Day Berlin tours (4 hours €10/ 8 hours €12), Wall Walks Malplaquetstr. 14 C, tel. 285 85 80/0178-
year round at 13:00. tour (at least four hours), as well as theme and private tours. as well as Cold War, Third Reich and Nightlife tours. 303 53 21, www.berlinwalltours.de. Bilingual guided tours
No advance tickets are necessary, just show up at one of Tuesdays and Fridays with Terr y means a special trip along the former Wall, lasting 1.5-2hrs and starting at various
Tickets (no reservations, just show up) and the meeting the meeting points and don’t forget to tip the guide. to somewhere in Berlin, announced on the website. The times and days; see the list online.The meeting point is at
point are at the southern entrance hall of the Gesundb- meeting point for tours is the Australian ice cream near the main entrance of U-Bahn station Eberswalder Straße.
runnen station (exit Humboldthain Park, Brunnenstraße). Berlin on Bike G-2, Schön- Friedrichstrasse station. Tickets €8,50/7,50.
For more information contact www.berliner-unterwelten. hauser Allee 36-39 (Kultur-
de, tel. 49 91 05 17. BSM Excursion , tel. 0331 601 08 90, www.bsm-
brauerei), court 4, PB, ME-
berswalderstr., tel. 43 73 99 excursion.de. City walks on request; the Spandauer Zoo & Aquarium
99, booking@berlinonbike. Vorstadt walk takis in the Hackescher Markt area, the Zoologischer Garten C-4, Hardenbergpl. 8 and
Fernsehturm G-3, Panoramastr. 1a, MI, MAlexan- de, w w w.berlinonbike.de. New Berlin walk goes from Potsdamer Platz to the gov- Budapester Str. 34, CB, MZoologischer Gar ten,
derpl., tel. 242 33 33, www.berlinerfernsehturm.de. Two guided bike-tours are of- ernment district, and there’s a Prenzlauer Berg walk and tel. 25 40 10, www.zoo-berlin.de. Visitor numbers to
The skewered disco ball may well have been Socialist fered between 1 April and 1 six more options. Each tour lasts 2-2,5hrs and costs Berlin’s fantastic zoo have rocketed since the birth of
Germany’s most innovative design, as its form predated the November. Choose between the Berlin Wall Tour (Tue, Thu, €10 per person. Knut the polar bear rocked the world - and in 2007, over
light-throwing device of the ABBA era by about 10 years. Sat at 11:00) which covers seven miles of the former death 3 million people visited, up 20% from 2006. There’s good
The 368-metre television broadcast tower, completed in strip and includes a visit to one of the last border watchtow- Fat Tire Bike Tours G-3, TV Tower, MI, tel. 24 reason too, even if you’ve had enough of cuddly white
1969 and 70m higher than the Eiffel tower, even has a ers; and Berlin´s Best (Mon, Wed, Fri, Sun at 11:00) which 04 79 91, Berlin@FatTireBikeTours.com, www.fat- bears; with some 14,000 animals of nearly 1400 species,
restaurant with a rotating floor (phone ahead for a table). cycles past the main sights. Tours start in court 4 of the tirebiketoursberlin.com. Meet your tour and bike at it’s the most varied zoo in the world. The kids will have
Whether one’s in the east or west, the tower’s round head Kulturbrauerei, or join at the Berliner Bank on the corner of the base of the TV Tower at 11:00 on Wed. and Sat. For their faces glued to the glass for hours at the separate
peering over rooftops certainly brings a level of humour to Eberswalder Straße and Schönhauser Allee. Q €18 including €20/18 they’ll spin you around Berlin with relaxed style. aquarium complex. Here, fish, reptiles and amphibians
the skyline. Photos circling the enclosed observation level rental bike, or €13 with your own. Bike rental without tour €10 The 4.5 hour sightseeing tour covers eight kilometres. For of all shapes, colours and sizes can be viewed at close
point out the landmarks for you. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. per 24 hours. the Wall Tour or the Third Reich Tour send them an email quarters in landscape basins and tanks. Highlights for most
Admission €9.50/€4.50. for arrangements. children are the blacktip reef sharks and the crocodiles,
Berlin Walks, tel. 301 91 94, www.berlinwalks.com. though the jellyfish, corals and the rare lizard-like tuatara
Panorama-Punkt E-4, Neue Potsdamer Str. 1, TG, Seven different tours run by veteran guide Nick Gay, who has Insider Tours Raumer Str. 14a, tel. 692 31 49, www. also deserve attention. The kids will love you forever if
MPotsdamer Pl., tel. 25 54 21 04, www.panorama- also written a book about Berlin. The Discover Berlin tour insidertour.com. Insider’s acclaimed four-hour tour does go their visit if it coincides with the daily feeding times; polar
punkt.de. Set your stopwatch: the elevator that rises 25 takes place twice daily, while the Third Reich and Sachsen- a long way to make you feel like an insider. Enthusiastic guides bears at 10:30, penguins at 13:45, wolves and bears at
floors up Hans Kollhoff’s redbrick skyscraper is apparently hausen concentration camp tours meet on select days. There start the walks daily from the McDonald’s near Zoo Station 14:00, monkeys and pelicans at 15:30. At the aquarium,
Europe’s fastest. Button up and walk up one more level for are also the weekly Jewish Berlin and Discover Potsdam tours. at 10:00 and from Coffeemama’s at Hackescher Markt at the sharks, rays and other large fish get fed every second
the loftiest view of the modern architecture comprising Pots- All tours meet at the taxi stand at Zoo Station, but also pick up 10:30. Tickets €12/9. Other tours are the Third Reich and Mon at 15:00, and the crocodiles have dinner on Mon and
damer Platz and everything beyond it. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. at Haagen Dazs at Hackescher Markt for the Discover Berlin, Wall walks, the Pub Crawl and to speed things up you can Thu at 13:30. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30. Admission €12/9
Admission €3.50/€2.50. Sachsenhausen and Jewish tours. Tickets €9-15. also join a bike tour. for zoo or aquarium, combined €18/14.
BERLINER UNTERWELTEN E.V.

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56 COLD WAR BERLIN POTSDAM 57
Deutsch-Russisches Museum Zwieseler Str. 4 (cor- Neues Palais, tel. 0331 96 94 255, www.spsg.de.
ner of Rheinstr.), MKarlshorst, tel. 50 15 08 41, www. Friedrich II preferred the simpler Schloss Sanssouci, but
museum-karlshorst.de. In the southeast, the building where this was the palace in which his descendants Wilhelm I
Germany signed its surrender in May 1945 now serves as the and Wilhelm II razzled and dazzled guests. Use the English-
Deutsch-Russisches Museum Berlin-Karlshorst. More rooms language text (€10 deposit) as you follow the German guide
focus on World War II, but exhibits include Soviet relations to both through studies, bedrooms, and party rooms. The stone- and
East and West Germany and ‘the presence of the war following shell-encrusted Muschel Saal is like a grotto from The Little
the war’. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Mermaid, and amongst so many chandeliers on two floors,
it’s Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s ‘crown of kings’ that stands out.
Haus am Checkpoint Charlie (The Wall Museum) QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Fri. Admission €5.
F-4, Friedrichstr. 43-45, KB, MKochstr., tel. 253 72 50,
www.mauer-museum.com. A homespun Great Escape FLUXUS+ Museum Schiffbauergasse 4f, Potsdam, tel.
museum of false trunks, tools, videos and stills of tunnel- 0331 601 08 90, www.fluxus-plus.de. A new museum
digging - and a submarine - attest to necessity and desire displaying changing exhibitions of private collections and lo-
being the mother of invention. Visit this museum for dramatic cal artists, varying from books, prints and paintings to video
stories of separated lovers, freedom-seeking families, and art. There’s a café with pleasant views of the park from the
fed-up senior citizens in the GDR who eventually breached terrace in summer. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
the Wall. A worthwhile stop, though unfortunately, the poor Part of Berlin’s charm is its proud grittiness, but don’t chide Admission €7.50, Tues half price.
translations and outdated texts do little to illuminate the yourself for being bourgeois if it gets to you - it got on the nerves
events leading up to the Wall’s construction. The museum of Friedrich der Große (Frederick II the Great), too. The ruler of Marmorpalais, tel. 0331 969 42 46, www.spsg.de.
also has art interpreting the concrete division of the city, an Berlin (and all of Prussia) from 1740 to 1786 built his favorite First built in 1791 by the man who would next design the
exhibit on human rights movements, and film screenings. abode Sanssouci, outside Berlin in the town of Potsdam. Brandenburger Tor, this early classicist palace on the shore of
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Admission €9.50/5.50. Heiliger See was fussed over one last time in 1848. The fine
Without a worry was the French name of his palace, though furnishings and wares on exhibit include Wedgewood ceram-
Stasi Museum (Forschungs- und Gedenkstätte thanks to considerable care taken by its architect Georg ics. Q Open Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Admission €2.
The physical division of Berlin during 28 years, and the Normannenstraße) Ruschestraße 103, Haus 1, FH, Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff, craftsmen, and artisans, it is
development of two completely separated cities on both MMagdalenenstr., tel. 553 68 54, www.stasimuseum.de. hailed as the Versailles of Germany. Sanssouci was intended Schloss Cecilienhof, tel. 0331 969 42 44, www.spsg.
sides of the Wall that ran between them, has led to huge East Germany’s State Security Service or Stasi was responsible as a summer residence, and though Friedrich stretched out de. Twentieth-century history was made when Stalin, Truman,
differences that cannot be erased in a matter of a few for intelligence gathering both at home and abroad. It spied on its the seasons he spent here, tourists don’t have the same and Attlee decided the future of postwar Germany during
years. Here‘s an overview of sights that give insight into own citizens, sometimes employing the friends, colleagues, and privilege: many buildings close between mid-October and the August 1945 conference at Schloss Cecilienhof. This
life with the Wall. family of those they wished to keep an eye on. Today, this humble April. The best attractions are open through winter - Park half-timber mansion between two lakes in the Neuer Garten
museum shows the office of Erich Mielke, the Stasi minister for Sanssouci’s Schloss Sanssouci and Neues Palais; and the was finished in 1917. In the same park is the Marmorpalais.
Alliiertenmuseum (Allied Museum) Clayallee 135, 32 years, in its original dull state. In the former cafeteria you Neuer Garten’s Marmorpalais and Schloss Cecilienhof. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5 including
ZD, MOskar-Helena-Heim, tel. 818 19 90, www.allii- can watch a video of Mielke testifying before a panel in 1989. Marmorpalais (open from 10:00).
ertenmuseum.de. The Allied Museum covers 50 years of Symbols of Communist kitsch can be found in one room, and Besides the palaces and parks, the compact town’s centre, half
West German-Allied (US, British, French) relations in the US documents in German make up the bulk of the exhibits. English faded and half restored, makes for a pleasant stroll. The Kolo-
Army movie house Outpost. The prize exhibit is the original tours are available with advance request. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, nie Alexandrowka is in a park along Puschkinallee, south of the Filmpark Babelsberg
sentry box from the Checkpoint Charlie border crossing. Sat, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. Admission €3.50. rise to the Belevedere. Quaintly enough, the log cabins here were
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission free. built in 1826 for a 12-member Russian choir who had helped
Trabi Safari F-3, Gendarmenmarkt/Marktgrafenstr., the Prussians fight Napoleon. Most of the boys got homesick
Berlin Wall Memorial F-2, Bernauer Str. 111, MStadtmitte, tel. 27 59 22 73, www.trabi-safari. and eventually left. The redbrick Holländisches Viertel (Dutch
MNordbahnhof, tel. 464 10 30, www.berliner-mauer- de. Eastern Germany’s cuddly two-stroke 26 horse power quarter) is another failed settlement, but a great place to get
dokumentationszentrum.de. This excellent information plastic car, recognisable by the characteristic bem-bem- a meal and browse in some shops. Friedrich Wilhelm I built the
centre covers the Wall’s history in film, slides, and English bem sound and the large blue cloud of smoke, has almost small district in the 1730s to attract Dutch craftsmen.
text. German speakers can listen to the propaganda of the been completely wiped off East Berlin’s streets. On a Trabi
Studio at the Barbed Wire broadcasts, which vans blasted via safari an experienced driver shows you how to operate the Potsdam basics
bullhorns to East German border guards between 1961 and machine and then, after a few test rounds, off you go on a Potsdam is just a thirty-minute ride on RE train N°1 or 3 from
1965. The guards often drowned out the message from the 90-minute safari through the eastern part of town in a column central Berlin. From Potsdam’s Hauptbahnhof station take
West by playing music. A graffiti-free portion of preserved Wall of coughing, farting Trabis. The safari fleet (view and book bus N°695 to get to the city centre and Sansoucci park. More
runs along Bernauer Straße; you can walk behind it and peer them online) includes 15 Trabis, carrying names like ‘Horst’, information: Postdam Tourist Information, Am Alten Markt 5,
through a crack to see a preserved section of death strip. ‘Lotti’ and ‘Erich’; there are some cabriolet versions as well as tel. 0331 275 58 20, www.potsdam.de.
One stop by tram M10 from the S-Bahn station. QOpen a 5.55m delux streched version. Q Day trips 10:00-18:00,
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Night trips 20:00-24:00. From €25/person. Park Sanssouci, tel. 0331 969 42 02, www.spsg.de. The
low-lying rococo Schloss Sanssouci has a gorgeous terraced
approach. Its Bildergalerie wing features works by Rubens,
Van Dijck and Caravaggio. On the opposite side are the Neue © Filmmuseum Potsdam
Kammern’s guest apartments. The palace sits within the 290
hectares of Park Sanssouci, which among other sights holds Film history was made at Babelsberg near Potsdam,
a botantical garden, the Orangerie, Roman baths, the Chinese where more than 3,000 films have been made in the
House, the Neues Palais, and Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s Schloss last 100 years – most recently Valkyrie, starring Tom
Charlottenhof, whose interior is perhaps the best preserved Cruise. The neighbouring Filmpark Babelsberg theme
example of Schinkel’s work. Each sight has its own separate park is a fun way for adults and children alike to see how
admission charge and changing exhibits. A general information films are made, watch animal shows and see stuntmen
office can be found at the historic windmill, between the Orangerie pull off amazing tricks, and to visit the sets of famous
and Schloss Sanssouci. The hilltop Belvedere auf dem Pfing- children’s programmes.
stberg (open 10:00 - 20:00) is a romantic folly lookout tower
built according to plans of Friedrich Wilhelm IV and completed in Filmpark Babelsberg Großbeerenstr., Babels-
1863. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Schloss Sanssouci berg, tel. 0331 721 27 50, www.filmpark.de. Open
is open 09:00 - 16:00, closed Mon. The guided tour costs €8; 10:00 - 18:00.
entrance to the park (open from dawn to dusk) is free.

58 POTSDAM FAMILY FUN 59
Filmmuseum Potsdam Marstall am Lustgarten, Berlin has many exciting things to do that will keep both the
Spielbank Potsdam MPotsdam-Hauptbahnhof, tel. 0331 27 18 10, adults and offspring happy. There are countless theatre Berlin Zoo
www.filmmuseum-potsdam.de. Featuring the history shows suitable for children, fun family city tours organised
Together with many other imposing buildings in the area, of the nearby Babelsberg film studios and with chang- by the tourist office, and many museums put on special Visitor numbers to
the building housing the Potsdam Spielbank Joker’s ing exhibitions on the world of film, possibly the best events and tours for children - there are even some museums Berlin’s fantastic zoo have
Garden casino since 2002 was designed by Frederick the thing about this museum are the evening screenings of made specially for kids. Join Berlin In Your Pocket on a tour rocketed since the birth
Great’s master builder Georg Wenzeslaus von Knobels- modern and classic international films. Silent films are of Berlin’s best childrens’ attractions. of Knut the polar bear
dorff in the 1750s. Recently restored to its former glory, accompanied live by an antique cinema organ. The Film rocked the world – and
the elegant building now is the venue for card games, Café serves drinks and food. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Charlottchen restaurant in 2007, over 3 million
roulette and playing machines. Admission €3,50/2,50. A unique restaurant and theatre specially for children and people visited, up 20%
their parents. Drop by with the kids for tasty meals, the indoor from 2006. There’s good
Spielbank Potsdam, Schloßstr. 14, Potsdam, tel. Filmpark Babelsberg Großbeerenstr., MBabelsberg, playground with slides and a castle, and the regular theatre shows reason too, even if you’ve had enough of cuddly white
0331-290 93 00, www.spielbank-potsdam.de. Open tel. 0331 721 27 50, www.filmpark.de. Over 3,000 films and other events. Call ahead or visit the website to find out when bears; with some 14,000 animals of nearly 1400
15:00-03:00, playing machines from 11:00. Admission have been shot at the famous Babelsberg UFA/DEFA studios, the next childrens’ theatre, puppet or clown show will take place. species, it’s the most varied zoo in the world. The kids
€5/20, includes credit. Minimum age 18. Dress code: including Fritz Lang’s Metropolis (1927). The themepark sur- Charlottchen (‘little Charlotte’) is also special for giving several will have their faces glued to the glass for hours at the
smart, jacket required (rental available). rounding the studios is great for children and adults. Though handicapped people the chance to work in a normal company. separate aquarium complex. Here, fish, reptiles and
the topics may be unfamiliar to foreigners, there’s enough Charlottchen, Droysenstr. 1, tel. 324 47 17, www. amphibians of all shapes, colours and sizes can be
action to keep you amused, including stunt, animal and pirate mosaik-services.de/686.0.html. Open daily from 10:00. viewed at close quarters in landscape basins and tanks.
shows, studio tours and ‘behind the scenes’ insights into Highlights for most children are the blacktip reef sharks
special effects through the years. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Cinestar CineKidz and the crocodiles, though the jellyfish, corals and the
Admission €17/15,50. The special family cinema inside the ALEXA mall Kindercity rare lizard-like tuatara also deserve attention. The kids
complex shows children’s films in daytime hours. The will love you forever if their visit if it coincides with the
Biosphäre Potsdam Georg-Herrmann-Allee 99, tel. screening room has seats that can be adapted in height daily feeding times; polar bears at 10:30, penguins at
0331 55 07 40, www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. A bit of for smaller children, and there’s space with cushions at the 13:45, wolves and bears at 14:00, monkeys and pelicans
jungle in Potsdam. Over 20.000 plants (orchids, bromelias, front for them to sit or lie too. Note that most films will be at 15:30. At the aquarium, the sharks, rays and other
ferns, palm trees and more) in a hot and humid tropical hall. dubbed in German. large fish get fed every second Mon at 15:00, and the
The children will have plenty to discover - including an indoor Cinestar CineKidz, ALE X A am Alexanderplatz, crocodiles have dinner on Mon and Thu at 13:30.
playground. From Potsdam station take tram N°92 to Cam- Grunerstr. 20, tel. 30 87 43 90, www.kindercity.de.
pus Fachhochschule or N°96 to Buga-Park. QOpen 09:00 Berlin Zoo & Aquarium, Budapester Str. 32,
- 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Admission €9,50/6,50, €10 Labyrinth Kindermuseum S-Bahn Zoologischer Garten, tel. 25 40 10, www.
including playground. This children’s museum encourages kids to ‘learn by doing’. aquarium-berlin.de. Open 09:00-16:00. Admission
The current award-winning exhibition has them solving (zoo and aquarium) €18/14; only zoo or aquarium
€12/9.
Potsdam restaurants problems, understanding correlations and learning about
humankind’s place in the wider world. With lots of active and
Drachenhaus interactive games, mirrors, puzzles, numbers and letters,
The ‘dragon house’ is a charming 235-year old Chinese the museum offers hours of fun for children and parents. see the world’s most famous fossil (the ancient bird Archaeopteryx
pagoda, decorated with golden dragons and originally built Note that it’s a shoes-off museum – bring comfy warm lithographica), and teach children all about the evolution of life on
for the man taking care of the first terraced gardens here. socks or slippers! earth, as well as the diversity and beauty of nature.
The café and restaurant serves international, regional and Labyrinth Kindermuseum, Fabrik Osloer Straße, Naturkundemuseum, Invalidenstr. 43, MI, tel. 20 93
vegetarian dishes in the lovely surroundings of the Park Osloer Straße 12, tel. 800 93 1150, www.labyrinth- 85 91, www.naturkundemuseum-berlin.de. Open 09:30-
Sanssouci. kindermuseum.de. Open 13:00-18:00, Sun 11:00-18:00, 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00, Monday closed. Admission
Maulbeerallee 4a, Park Sanssouci, Potsdam, tel. 0331 Mon closed. Admission €4/3,50. €6/3.50.
505 38 08, www.drachenhaus.de. Open 11:00-19:00.
Nov-Feb 11:00-18:00, closed Mon. Dinner by advance LOXX Miniaturwelten Osteria No. 1 restaurant
reservation only. Experience Berlin and more in miniature, at the popular LOXX After letting the children run around Kreuzberg’s Viktoriapark,
model train exposition inside the ALEXA shopping centre on there’s no better place to head for a snack or meal than the
Dragon’s In Alexanderplatz. The 750 square meters of landscapes that took child-friendly Osteria N°1 restaurant. Apart from catering
An ‘indoor street coffee’ café in a covered courtyard serving over 400,000 man hours to build has already attracted over well to parents, they’re wonderful with children. No boredom
the widest variety of coffees in Potsdam, as well as non- 700,000 people, and has immaculately recreated city districts, allowed on the pleasant green terrace.
alcoholic drinks and great cakes, muffins, sandwiches and buildings, city lighting and naturally lots of model trains zooming Osteria N°1, Kreuzbergerstr. 71, KB, M Mehringdamm,
soups. Occasional events such as DJ performances and around. There’s even a miniature airport with planes taxiing tel. 786 91 62, www.osteria-uno.de. Open 12:00-
parties rock the house. around, and the US presidential airplane arriving. 24:00.
Lindenstraße 20, Lindenhof, Potsdam, tel. 0331 647 LOXX am Alex, Miniatur Welten Berlin, Alexa-Center,
41 01, www.dragonsin.de. Open 09:30-18.30, Sun 3rd floor, Grunerstr. 20, tel. 44 72 30 22, www.loxx-
12:00-18:30. berlin.de. Open 10:00-19:00. Babelsberg Easter Events
Villa von Haacke Magic Mountain The Filmpark Babelsberg
A 160-year old classicist villa built for a major in the Prussian Have the kids lose some energy on Berlin’s best indoor opens its doors for the
army, just north of central Potsdam, has been transformed climbing wall. Have them climb (charmingly called klettern 2009 season on 7 April,
into an elegant setting for this refined Italian restaurant. in German) up sheer walls, secured by ropes and under and throws a part on the
There’s fresh fish from the Mediterranean, pasta, and supervision of professionals. weekend of 10-13 April,
regional dishes from across Italy, all supplemented by the Böttgerstr. 20-26, U/S Gesundbrunnen, tel. 88 71 57 when the theme park is riot
large wine collection in the vaulted cellar. 90, www.magicmountain.de. Open 12:00-24:00, Thu of colour, with 7000 flow-
Jägerallee, tel. 0331 270 19 91, www.villa-haacke. 10:00-24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00-22:00. Admission €14/7. ers on the grounds. Young
de. and old can enjoy the special Easter atmosphere and
Naturkundemuseum events at the park.
The sight of the largest mounted dinosaur in the world, a Filmpark Babelsberg Großbeerenstr., Babels-
Secure and legal. Play responsibly at your
Brachiosaurus brancai, will have both children and parents
licensed casino. Identity Card required.
Minimum age 18. Don‘t get addicted to
Potsdam • Schloßstraße 14
www.spielbank-potsdam.de www.inyourpocket.com astounded – and Berlin’s wonderful natural history museum has
berg, tel. 0331 721 27 50, www.filmpark.de. Open
10:00 - 18:00.
gambling. BZgA-Hotline: 0 800.1372700.
much more. Poke fun at the aardvarks, learn about meteorites,

60 RIVER TOURS RIVER TOURS 61
After flowing a bucolic 400km from the Czech border

region to Berlin, the Spree River goes out with a bang Reederei Riedel
before disappearing into the Havel River in the Spandau
district. Cutting a southeast to northwest passage Join an informative voyage around the city centre in one www.inyourpocket.com
through the city, the river provides tremendous views of of Riedel’s panorama ships, accompanied with multi-
the urban landscape, including the Berlin Cathedral, the lingual audio guide texts. The three-hour tour takes you
Reichstag and government district and the Berlin Wall beneath 63 bridges, through locks, past all the city
centre highlights, plus the red brick Oberbaumbrücke, M.S. Schiffskontor Berlin tel. 61 62 93, www.
between Ostbahnhof and Warschauer Straße. Some
Kreuzberg’s park areas and Potsdamer Platz. The 1,5- schiffskontor.de. Rent an antique boat for any occasion.
of the Spree is diverted along park-lined canals and the hour tour floats by the highlights of the city. Embark at
city has more bridges than those boastful cities Venice Reederei Winkler tel. 349 95 95, www.reedereiwinkler.
one of ten piers. de. Short and long tours in and around central Berlin.
and Amsterdam. Reederei Riedel tel. 693 46 46, www.reederei-
Taking in the city from the top deck of a cruise boat is a Reederei Riedel tel. 693 46 46, www.reederei-riedel.
riedel.de. de. City tours and three-hour cruises.
great way to spend a few hours. A waiter takes orders Stern und Kreisschiffahrt tel. 536 36 00, www.
for beer, meals, snacks and ice cream. The captain or a sternundkreis.de. Many tours options in and around
guide narrates (often in German only), but you’ll get the Berlin.
idea when passing a great-looking building.
Boats offering similar 3.5-hour “Brücke” (Bridges)
tours leave from various landing spots. To reach the Reederei Winkler
Märkisches Ufer landing (G-2), take the U-Bahn to
Märkisches Museum, walk to the water and turn right; Winkler’s ships start longer tours at the Schloßbrücke in
the landing is by the Angolan and Brazilian embassies. Charlottenburg, with the one-hour tours departing next
Similar tours start from the bridges Jannowitzbrücke to Friedrichstraße train station. The longer tours take
in the city’s bridges and sights by day, lasting 3 hours,
(H-2; S- and U-Bahn Jannowitzbrücke) and Kottbusser
though one doubles back past the city’s main sights while
Brücke (H-4; next to café Ankerklause, near U-Bahn the other makes a round loop (and though it may pass
Schönleinstraße). less spectacular sights, the parts of the city are no less
Tours lasting 1 to 1.5 hours depart regularly from two scenic). Another tour shows you the city lights by night.
boat landings near Hackescher Markt (G-2), on the east Narration is bilingual on the short tours, otherwise English
side of Museum Island. Another company leaves from texts are available.
the west side of the island, opposite the pink-coloured Departures at 10:15, 11:00, 14:15 and 15:00.
German History Museum (G-2). A third place to begin a Tickets from €9-17. Reederei Winkler, tel: 349 95
short tour is behind the Haus der Kulturen der Welt (E-2), 95, info@reedereiwinkler.de, www.reedereiwinkler.
which has its own bus stop in Tiergarten. © Reederei Riedel de.
9 9

62 SHOPPING SHOPPING 63
You could ruin a good set of heels window-shopping in Galeries Lafayette F-3, , MI, MFranzösische Str., tel.
Berlin. 20 94 80, www.lafayette-berlin.de. French Huguenots did bubble.kid berlin
Stroll Kurfürstendamm, particularly between Uhlandstr. much for Berlin’s cultural development in the late 1600s, and
and Adenauerpl., for Versace, Jil Sander, Gucci, and Sonia the rebirth of Friedrichstraße in the late 1990s wouldn’t have A Berlin label producing creative
Rykiel. If you’re looking for something other than the same been possible without this posh French department store. fashion for babies and larger chil-
old same old, follow Berliners to the boutiques of Annette Architect Jean Nouvel designed the building, which has a dren. Each collection is based on
Peterman and Nanna Kuckuck on Bleibtreustr. fabulous gaping glass funnel in the centre. Less is indeed a single colour scheme allowing
With the exception of Berlin’s proudest department store, more, as you’ll see on the price tag of every dainty accessory. for many combinations. In order
Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe, ‘Department store of QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. to make the clothes all the more
the west’), Tauentzienstr. is lined with mass market retail comfortable, they are both trendy
stores. KaDeWe has an excellent selection of foods as well Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) D-4, Tauentzien- and functional. The new summer 2009 collection has pink,
as a vast array of services, from umbrella repair to tailoring. str. 21, CB, MWittenbergpl., tel. 212 10, www.kadewe. marine, flowers and ponchos for girls; stripes, curry tones,
Mitte’s credit card trail is Friedrichstr., between Unter de. Berlin’s answer to Harrod’s has seven huge floors with two and two-in-one trousers for the boys.
den Linden and Stadtmitte. Tank-size Bentleys and devoted completely to gourmet food and drink. Have oysters Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 7, U-Bahn Alexanderplatz,
costly ounces of French perfume now define the street at the champagne bar to take the sting out of your shopping tel. 94 40 42 52, www.bubble-kid.de.QOpen Mon-Fri
where Soviets and Americans faced off in the Cold War. spree. If anything has come undone on your travels, there 11:30-19:00, Sat 11:30-16:00.
The Friedrichstadtpassagen and Galeries Lafayette (with are myriad repair and cleaning services at hand to make it
a fascinating interior and gourmet basement) are the main all better, dear. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00, Sat
emporiums. Mitte’s maze of streets around Weinmeister- 09:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Bubble.kid G-3, Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 7, MI,
str. is where to find what’s driving the under-thirty crowd MAlexanderplatz, tel. 94 40 42 52, www.bubblekid.
into debt. Half-sewn shirts are the new prêt-a-portier. Quartier 206 F-3, Friedrichstr. 71, MI, MStadmitte, de. A young Berlin label producing creative fashion for
Kreuzberg, where the protesting students of 1968 have tel. 20 94 62 40, www.quartier206.de. Berlin’s design babies and children up to 6 years. The German-made
grown grey alongside Turkish immigrants, has two main and lifestyle department store par excellence. An elegant, cotton clothes are functional, trendy, colourful and safe.
shopping streets. Between bars and take-out eateries cosmopolitan world of shopping on two storeys with an Online sales available. QOpen 11:30 - 19:00, Sat 11:30
on Oranienstr. are bookstores, wool specialists, ethnic imaginative, exclusive and trend-setting range of items. - 16:00. Closed Sun.
grocers, internet cafés and Luzifer, a long-time maker of Covering 2,500 square metres of retail space in three in-
monotone linen and wool clothing. Bergmannstr. is less terlinked street blocks, and including international designer Budapester Schuhe C-4, , CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 882
scruffy but still full of funky gift and household supply fashion, accessories, popular labels, cosmetics, jewellery, 36 76. Men’s shoes get all the fondling nowadays - this shop
stores, as well as a few clothing stores. books, art and flowers, Quartier 206 offers an enriching carries handcrafted Italian, English, American, and Hungarian
Full of people under thirty, Prenzlauer Berg is where to shopping experience. QOpen 10:30 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 leather shoes. The women’s shoes, primarily by top Italian
watch the trends. Kastanianallee and Szredzkistr. are - 18:00. Closed Sun. designers, rely on mechanical precision. QOpen 10:00 -
two streets to comb, but you’re likely to find an interesting 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
window display wherever you walk.
Electronics East Berlin Supply Store G-2, Alte Schönhauser Str.
Gravis C-3, Ernst-Reuter-Platz 8, tel. 39 02 23 33,
Antiques 33/34, MI, MWeinmeisterstr., tel. 24 72 41 89. Put
Antique stores cluster so conveniently together that it Department stores www.gravis.de. Lifestyle electronics for the digital genera-
tion: Mac, iPod, sound, television - and a café too. QOpen
that Prussian eagle on your chest in cotton, or wrap an “East
Berlin” belt around your waist. You won’t find these T-Shirt
takes all the fun out of having a private driver. Keithstr., Alexa Centre G-3, Am Alexanderplatz, MAlexander- 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. designs anywhere else and many make cool references to
a two-minute walk from U-Bahn station Wittenbergpl., is platz, tel. 269 34 00, www.alexacentre.com. Alexander- Berlin. Bags, jewellery, and those wrist bands that serve no
purpose round out the selection. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat
lined with shops. The area around Nollendorfpl. - Eisen-
acher Str., Motzstr., and Nollendorfstr. - is another centre
platz square, built as the proud, modern centre of East Berlin,
now has a new focus point: the Alexa mall, just to the southeast Fashion 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
of dust-collection. The holdings of the shops along Geor- of the train and U-Bahn stations. The remarkable spanish- Adidas Store G-2/3, Münzstr. 13, MI, MWeinmeister-
genstr. can’t be too precious because their roof is the designed building is inspired by Berlin’s golden age during the str., tel. 27 59 43 81. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Escada F-3, Friedrichstr. 176-179, MI, MStadtmitte,
S-Bahn track between Hackescher Markt and Friedrichstr. 1920s and the city’s tradition of large department stores. With tel. 238 64 04. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00.
some 180 shops, restaurants and cafés, there’s something for Bag Ground G-2, Gipsstr. 23b, MWein- Closed Sun.
Books everyone here, from fashion to books and groceries to music
and film. Both parents and children will love the massive kid’s
meisterstr., tel. 27 58 31 77, w w w.
bag-ground.com. Classic, daring and cute
Berlin Story F-3, Unter den Linden 26, MI, MFriedrichstr., area dedicated to them, which even has a cinema. Q Open quality handbags from a variety of Germany Departmentstore Quartier 206
tel. 20 45 38 42. The city is the muse of Berlin Story, which has Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Kindercity until 18:00, LOXX until 19:00, and international designers. Prices star t
souvenirs in addition to books about and guides to the city. A lower level opens 08:00. Sunday: Food court 11:00-19:00, around €35. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Friedrichstr. 71, MI, Stadmitte, F-3, tel. 20 94 68
25-minute film on Berlin, a 1930 city model, and a history exhibit Kindercity 10:00-18:00, LOXX 10:00-19:00. Sun. 00, www.departmentstore-quartier206.com. Open
are part of the free exhibition upstairs. Those interested in the Birkenstock Shop Berlin G-3, Neue 11:00 - 20:00; Sat 10:00 - 18:00.
film The Downfall, about Hitler’s last days in his bunker, should City Quartier Dom Aquarée G-3, Karl-Liebknecht-Str. Schönhauser Str. 6-7, MI, MHackescher Markt, tel. 28 If you think that Acne is merely an affliction of the pu-
take a flip through the book The Führer Bunker, available in English and Spandauer Str., MI, MHackescher Markt. There’s more 09 96 94. Made in Germany since 1774. One has to wonder bescent, then you had better head down to the elegant
only here. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. to this modern block than the ultra splashy Radisson SAS hotel about what reputation 18th century Birkenstock sandal wear- and cosmopolitan Departmentstore Quartier 206 for a
Books in Berlin C-4, Goethestr. 69, CB, MErnst- and the Sea Life aquarium. A sunny terrace café faces the Spree ers had - were they even then liberal tree-huggers? Amongst lesson in all things hip. Design brain-child of Anna Maria
Reuter-Pl., tel. 313 12 33, www.booksinberlin.de. A River and gift shops front its Karl-Liebknecht-Straße side. Through the very cool boutiques selling shoes with tendon-thin heels, Jagdfeld, the creator of amj design, this space in the heart
nook devotedly entirely to English-language books. QOpen May 7, the gallery Schoen + Nalepa (entrance St. Wolfgang Str. 2) it’s refreshing to find a shoe store that wants you to survive of Berlin offers ladies, gents and children’s fashion, plus
12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. presents the works of Nikolai Makarov, a Moscow-born artist who walking Berlin’s uneven cobblestone streets. Comfort is even accessories, cosmetics, literature and interior design
Dussmann F-3, Friedrichstr. 90, MI, MFriedrichstr., now makes his homes in Berlin and New York. His meditative work part of the design of the line by catwalk supermodel Heidi Klum. from the internationally renowned likes of Donna Karan,
tel. 20 25 24 10. Four floors make Dussmann the biggest has been poetically linked to composer John Cage: “John Cage QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Jimmy Choo, Stella McCartney, DKNY, Phaidon, Edition
bookstore in Berlin. The English-language section is limited, taught us to hear silence - Nikolai Makarov lets us see it.” Stemmle, Marc Jacobs and many, many more. A limited
but music and DVDs are for sale on the ground floor, there are BOSS Orange G-2/3, Max-Beer-Str. 2, MWeinmeis- edition art gallery plus bar café with cool tunes and
comfy balcony areas for reading upstairs and there’s a cafe Galeria Kaufhof G-3, Alexanderpl. 9, MI, MAlexan- terstr., tel. 847 10 78 80. A fantastic new BOSS shop delicious cakes round off the experience where you can
on the top floor. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. derpl., tel. 24 74 30, www.galeria-kaufhof.de. The best aimed at the young, cool end of the market. The sawed-up also order the superb designer floral arrangements for
Marga Schoeller Bücherstube C-4, Knesebeckstr. department store east of Friedrichstraße is modern inside cars at the entrance may seem unusual, but then there’s your next event. DepartmentStore Quartier 206 offers
33, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 881 11 12. A tightly-packed but a concrete and metal monstrosity seen from outside. the underground gallery, in what looks like an air-raid bunker. Berlin’s discerning shoppers complete, not to mention
shop of English-language literature, as well as academic The store is linked to an excellent Saturn outlet (electronics The wacky changing rooms top anything we’ve seen. A bar in elegant, new and improved lifestyle choices within its
books. QOpen 09:30 - 19:00, Thu, Fri 09:30 - 20:00, Sat and CDs) via the large 1st floor sports department. QOpen the shop serves ‘stylefood’ should you get peckish. QOpen 2,500 square metres of retail space.
09:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun. 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

64 SHOPPING SHOPPING 65
tausche Taschen Onitsuka Tiger Store Berlin Askania Heidenreich jewellery

Different every day. tausche In a remarkable ambiance Berlin is a special city, The jeweller y shop
Taschen stands for bags with of high quality materials and now the buzzing me- near the Kulturbrau-
exchangeable flaps in more and exciting design, com- tropolis has its old watch- erei in Prenzlauer Berg
than 100 different designs. bining traditional and factory back, once again o f fe rs i n d i vi d u al l y
Two flaps are included in the modern Japan, the Japa- producing mechanical made wedding rings
price of one bag. Various nese brand Onitsuka Tiger masterpieces in line with a and designs in plati-
insets equip your bag to suit presents the whole variety tradition dating back more num, gold and silver,
any occasion. of its shoe and apparel than a hundred years. as well as selling the
collections. Don’t miss the specials celebrating the 60th Discover the excitement work of contemporary
Raumerstr. 8, tel. 40 30 anniversary of the brand. of mechanical watches young artists. With
17 70, fax 40 30 17 71, Alte Schönhauser Str. 20-22, tel. 24 63 21 03, made in Berlin at Aska- everything from minimal to classic, with or without gems,
info@tausche.de, www. www.onitsukatiger.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:30, nia’s impressive store any shopper can find something to wear, or have an item
tausche.de. Sat 11:00-19:00. in the Hackesche Höfe specially made.
courtyards.
Juwelier Heidenreich, Danziger Str. 17, PB, tel.
Hilfiger Denim Store Rosenthaler Str. 38, tel. 24 63 Hut up! F-3, Oranienburger Str. 36, MI (Heckman- Askania, Rosenthaler Strasse 40/41, Hackesche 44 04 22 70, U-Bahn Eberswalder Str. Open Tue-Fri
20 91, www.hilfigerdenim.com. Denim with sexy patterns, nhöfe), MOranienburger Str., tel. 44 35 75 25, Höfe. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-20:00. 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-14:00, closed Sun, Mon.
cool styles and trendy colours in a designer shop. Three w w w.hutup.de. Merino wool fel t is the muse here,
other outlets in town. and it weaves its way into chiffon, silks, organza, muslin
Hugo BOSS F-3, Friedrichstr. 165, MI, MFranzösische Str, and cotton creations for women and children. Not one is where to pick up the woman of leisure’s must-haves: is wor th €450. Her form-fitting knit tops and dresses
tel. 20 61 38 90, www.bossshops.com. This German designer object is stitched or sewn in this intricate craftwork, silk kimonos, linen Thai fishing pants, and dresses of shimmer with acetate this season. Women with long
makes shopping for clothes look as easy as picking something out which is handmade in Berlin. From sh eer, light as a comfortable elegance. Her pompadour bags in pastels or torsos are especially in luck here. Men can choose from
from a German’s super-organised closet. Everything here is more feather shir ts and skir ts to thick house slippers and Asian-inspired red and black are featured at the luxurious sweaters. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00.
tailored than the Hugo Boss clothes found in department stores, swea ters, fel t proves i tsel f a lu xurious ma terial in Hotel Adlon’s shop. Q Tue, Wed, Fri 14:00-19:00, Sat Closed Sun.
and hand-tailoring is necessary for the “Selection” line. The two these wonder fully creative designs. The summer sale 11:00-14:00. Tausche Taschen H-1, Raumer str. 8, MEb er-
other men’s lines are the sporty Orange Collection and the Black begins in August; prepare to spend around €200 for Nike Town D-4, Tauentzienstr. 66, CB, MWittenbergpl., swalder Str., tel. 40 30 17 70, inf o@tausche.
label. A separate hand-tailored luxury label is Baldessarini. You’re a single piece, or just about €20 for a whimsical and tel. 250 70. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. de, w w w.tausche.de. Di fferen t ever yday! tausch e
in time for summer sales and first dibs on the autumn/winter col- color ful object from the home collection that includes Closed Sun. Taschen stands for bags wi th exchangeable flaps in
lection that arrives in mid-July. Women have a half-floor of Boss cell phone holders, eg g warmers and vases. Q Open Skoda G-2/3, Alte Schönhauser Str. 35, MI, more than 100 different designs. Two flaps are included
Woman items, much of which are monotone, but some blouses 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. MWeinmeister Str., tel. 280 72 11, w w w.clau- in the price of one bag. Various insets equip your bag
and dresses have floral and woodgrain prints reminiscent of the MO-A J-4, Oderstrasse 16, FH, MSamariter Str., tel. diaskoda.com. Claudia Skoda is the German designer to sui t any occasion. Q Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00, Sat
1960s. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A 27 57 13 33, www.mo-a.de. Monika Alschweig’s atelier who convinces even the thrifty that sometimes a dress 11:00-18:00
SPARKL
OFA I
The Original! NN
NG
GLASS
IVE
YE RSA
W I NE F
20 AR RY
Classic shopping and dining! 09
E
ON
O
CUSTOM-MADE JEWELLERY
RF
REE
ONE-OF-A-KIND PIECES
Over 80 WEDDING RINGS
businesses:
shopping, bars,
restaurants and
entertainment HEIDENREICH SINCE 1999
How to reach us:

A Zoo: U2, U9 · AWittenbergplatz: U1, U2, U3
? Zoo: S5, S7, S75, S9
= Zoo: X9, X10, X34, 100, 109, 110, 200, 204,
245, 249, M45, M46, M49 Tauentzienstr. 9 –12 · 10789 Berlin DANZIGER STR. 17 : 10435 BERLIN-PRENZLAUER BERG
= Europa-Center: M19, M29, M46 PHONE: (030) 44 04 22 70 : WWW.HEIDENREICH-SCHMUCK.DE
Tel.: 030/26 49 79 40 · www.24EC.de TUE - FRI 11 - 19 H : SAT 11 - 14 H

66 SHOPPING/DIRECTORY DIRECTORY 67
Jewellery Doctors fee (usually €1-2) and calculates the exchange rate using
the bank’s middle rate, which is usually better than the
Askania G-3, Rosenthaler Str. 40/41, MHackescher Dipl.-Med. Christa Bottin Prenzlauer Allee 189, rate that you get at the exchange offices or banks. Credit
Markt, www.askania-watches.com. Berlin is a special city, MEberswalder Str., tel. 442 38 23. cards can also be used in many ATMs, but may charge
and now the buzzing metropolis has its old watchfactory back, Dr. Alexandra Heiser Kurfürstendamm 139, MAdenau- high commissions. When changing cash, shop around if you
once again producing mechanical masterpieces in line with erpl., tel. 89 54 07 50. General medicine & homeopathy. plan to change a large amount - commissions and rates
a tradition dating back more than a hundred years. Discover Dr. Karin Wrobel Schönhauser Allee 126 A, MSchön- differ. Traveller’s Cheques are outdated and practically
the excitement of mechanical watches made in Berlin at hauser Allee, tel. 448 57 67. superfluous in Europe, but many banks and exchange of-
Askania’s impressive store in the Hackesche Höfe courtyards. Dr. med. Michael Oppel Der ff linger str. 14, fices still accept them.
QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. MKurfürstenstr., tel. 44 72 81 28, fax 44 72 81 29,
Bulgari C-4, Fasanenstr. 70, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. oppel@integrative-medizin.com, w w w.integrative- American Express D-4, Bayreuther Str. 37, CB,
885 79 20. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. medizin.com. MWittenbergplatz, tel. 21 47 62 92. QOpen 09:00
Closed Sun. - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Also at Friedrich-
Cartier C-4, Fasanenstr. 28, MUhlandstr., tel. 886
70 60. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Hospitals straße 172.
Reisebank C-4, Zoo Bahnhof, tel. 881 71 17, www.re-
Benjamin Franklin Clinical Centre Klingsorstr., isebank.de. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00. Also at Ostbahnhof.
Sun.
Christ Juweliere F-3, Friedrichstr. 176-179, MI, MFran- Airlines MRathaus Steglitz, tel. 84 45 30 15, www.medizin.
zösische Str., tel. 204 10 49. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat Air Berlin , www.airberlin.com.
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. 17 other outlets in town. Air France , tel. 0180-583 08 30, www.airfrance.
fu-berlin.de.
Campus Charité Mitte Clinical Centre F-2, Luisenstr. 66, Moving to Berlin
com. MZinnowitzer Str., tel. 450 53 10 00, www.charite.de. The following companies can help with every aspect
Austrian , tel. 0180-300 05 20, www.aua.com. Campus Virchow Clinical Centre Augustenburger Pl.
Markets British Airways , tel. 01805-26 65 22, www.brit- 1, MAmrumer Str., tel. 450 55 20 00, www.charite.de.
of relocation, including moval, permits, acommoda-
tion, language courses and getting to know the local
Kunst und Nostalgiemarkt F-3, Kupfergraben, MI, ishairways.com. German Heart Centre Berlin Augustenburger Pl. 1, community.
MFriedrichstr.. Lining the way to the Pergamon Museum CSA , tel. 0180 392 00 35, www.csa.cz. MAmrumer Str., tel. 45 93 10 00, www.dhzb.de.
are canal-side stalls carrying crafts and souvenirs including Deutsche BA , www.flydba.com. Charité Universitätsklinikum F-3, Schumannstr. ARRIVA Relocation Sybelstr. 43, tel. 32 77 43 11,
red-and-green gummi Ampelmännchen. Q Open Sat, Sun Easyjet , www.easyjet.com. 20-21, MOranienburger Tor, tel. 45 050, www.charite. www.arriva.de.
11:00 - 17:00. EL AL , tel. 03-971 61 11, www.elal.co.il. de. Enter Berlin Hohenzollerndamm 55, tel. 88 92 02 40,
Trödel and Kunstmarkt D-3, Straße des 17. Juni, Finnair , tel. 01803-34 66 24, www.finnair.com. Waldfriede Hospital Argentinische Allee 40, MKrumme www.enter-berlin.com.
TG, MTiergarten, tel. 26 55 00 96. Most the vendors Germania Express , www.gexx.de. Lanke, tel. 81 81 02 85, www.waldfriede.de. First Relocating Kissinger Str. 67, tel. 826 14 51,
at this antique and craft market next to Tiergarten S-Bahn Germanwings , www.germanwings.com. www.first-relocating.de.
KLM , tel. 41 01 38 44, www.klm.com.
station are well-organised, making finding that door handle,
LOT , tel. 01803-300 03 36, www.lot.com. Money
French glass vase, Turkish kilim, or amber necklace more
of a shopping than rummaging experience. Artisans with Lufthansa Kaiserdamm 109, tel. 322 10 51, www. The only good way to get euros in Germany is to stick your Real Estate
new wares are separate from the antique section, which lhcc.de. debit card (with a 4-digit PIN code) into an ATM (banko- BPC Berlin Property Consultants, tel. 411 98 39
includes second-hand CDs and clothes. Q Open Sat, Sun SAS , tel. 410 13 70, www.sas.se. mat in German). Your bank charges you a small transfer 00, email: info@bpc-berlin.com, www.bpc-berlin.com.
10:00 - 17:00. Swiss , tel. 41 01 27 64/01803-00 03 37, www.
Trödelmarkt D-5, John-F-Kennedy Pl., SB, MRathaus swiss.com.
8&&,&/%-07&3
Schöneberg, tel. 03322-24 67 23. Less touristy than the Volare , www.volareweb.com.
Straße des 17. Juni market, this fleamarket offers better
deals, especially when vendors are wrapping up for the day.
Q Open Sat, Sun 08:00 - 16:00. Buses
Trödelmarkt J-4, Boxhagener Platz, FH, MFrankfurter Berlin Linien Bus Mannheimer Str. 33/34, CB, MHeidel-
Tor. The fleamarket on the Boxi may be the funkiest place berger Pl., tel. 861 93 31, www.berlinlinienbus.de. Buses
to trawl though junk including everything from 1970s tape to national and international destinations. Munich €45, Hamburg
recorders to Polish art posters and second-hand clothing. €25, Frankfurt €44, Prague €38, Amsterdam €53, Paris €76.
The best way to rent a car in Berlin:
There are plenty of cafés in the area to combine your treasure Deutsche Touring (Eurolines) Masurenallee 4, tel.
hunt with breakfast. Q Open Sun 10:00 - 18:00. 069 79 03 50, www.deutsche-touring.com. One of the
founding members of the Eurolines bus network, DT has
Souvenirs & Gifts dozens of nicely priced international destinations. Prague €35.
Q Kaiserdamm 30: 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
You don’t have to walk far down Unter den Linden from ZOB (Zentraler Omnibusbahnhof am Funkturm)
Brandenburger Tor to find souvenir shops left and (mostly) Masurenallee 4-6, MKaiserdamm, tel. 301 03 80 /302
right. Scores of coffee table books document the changing 53 61 , www.zob-berlin.de. Berlin’s central bus station is
face of Berlin and its most scarred and wounded moments not very central, at the western end of the city. For tickets,
in history. The irrepressible cheer of Ampelmännchen contact the ZOB travel agency, www.zob-reisebuero.de.
figures make for more pedestrian memories of Berlin.
Other tiny beings that don’t take up much luggage space
are the straw and wood figurines of the Erzgebirge that Car rental
are sold in many tourist gift shops. Most of the ornaments Avis C-4, Budapester Str. 43, tel. 230 93 70, www.avis.
and nutcrackers are meant for display at Christmas. de. Q Open 24hrs.
Erzgebirgskunst Petzoldt G-2/3, Sophienstr. 9, MI, Budget Tegel Airport, tel. 41 01 33 64, www.budget.
MWeinmeisterstr., tel. 282 67 54. Traditional wooden toys de. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00
and decorative things from the Erzgebirge region. QOpen - 23:00. Also at Budapester Str. 24. For Schönefeld Airport
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. call the above number.
Münz Chirurgie F-2/3, Oranienburger Str. 54/56 Europcar G-3, Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 19-21, MI, tel. 240
(Tacheles), MI, MOranienburger Tor, tel. 336 75 69, 79 00, www.europcar.de. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat www.starcar.de rent-a-car
www.muenzchirurgie.de. Artist Tom Petzold makes beau- 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
tiful pendants from normal coins from across the world by Hertz C-4, Budapester Str. 39, tel. 261 10 53, www.
removing the unneccessary bits with an extremely fine saw hertz.de. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun Berlin - Neukölln Tel: 030 / 68 29 68 0 Berlin - Tiergarten Tel: 030 / 25 75 77 0
- leaving just the rim and the picture intact. From €50. 09:00 - 13:00.

68 STREET REGISTER A B C
nnw
du
Adam-von-
-Olb
Sa
Jungfernheide
fer
eg
a
richt-Damm
tw
Dohn
in k
le r
ag
Ackerstr. FG 2 Engeldamm H4 Kaiserin-Augusta-Allee BC 2 Neue Blumenstr. H3 Skalitzer Str. G 4-I 4
es t e
Da
Straße 70
Adalbertstr. H4 Englische Str. C3 Kantstr. BC 4 Neue Grünstr. F4 Solinger Str. CD 3 Kol. Friedrichsweg
mm
ll
Admiralstr. GH 5 Entlastungsstr. E3 Kapelleufer EF 3 Neuenburgerstr. FG 4 Solmsstr. F5 A 111 g
Agricolastr. C3 Erkelenzdamm F4 Karl-Liebknecht-Str. G3 Niebuhrstr. BC 4 Soorstr. A 3/4 1 tw
e Hüttigpfad
Hü
1
va ttig
Albrechtstr. F3 Ernst-Reuter-Platz C3 Karl-Marx-Allee G-I 3 Niederkirchnerstr. F4 Sophie-Charlotten-Str. A3 Heckerdam
Nordufer
That s Pri
m pfa
Alexanderplatz G3 Esmarchstr. H2 Karlsruher Str. A4 Niederwallstr. F3 Sophienstr. G 2/3 Paul-Hertz- Frie d
er
dric
Alexanderstr. G3 Fasanenallee D 3/4 Kastanienallee G2 Nikol.-Groß-Weg A2 Spandauer Damm AB 3 Heckerdam h-O
Alexanderufer F 2/3 Fasanenstr. C 4/5 Keibelstr. GH 3 Nollendorfstr. DE 5 Spandauer Str. G3
m Siedlung lbric
ht-D
Heckerdamm
Alexandrinenstr. F4 Fehmarner Str. D1 Keplerstr. B2 Nordhauser Str. B3 Spichernstr. C5 am
Halemweg
Go m
Almstadtstr. G 2/3 Fehrbelliner Str. G2 Kieler Str. E2 Nostitzstr. F5 Sredzkistr. H2 e be l
berg-Str.
Lichten-
Bernh.-
str.
Beussel
Toeplerstr.
Reichweind
Alte Jakobstr. F4 Feldzeugmeisterstr. D2 Kl. Hamburger Str. F2 Novalisstr. F2 Stallschreiberstr. G4 AS
eg
Kol. Juliusruh Seestr.
Alte Schönhauser Str. G2 Fischerinsel G3 Kleiststr. DE 4 Nürnberger Str. D4 Stauffenbergstr. E4
Grenzw
Alt-Lietzow B3 Flensburger Str. D3 Klingelhöferstr. D4 Oberbaumstr. I4 Steinplatz C4 Jakob-Kaiser-Platz AS Westh
str.
U enweg
Alt-Moabit C 3-E 3 Flotowstr. D3 Kloppstockstr. D3 Oberberger Str. G 1/2 Storkower Str. I 1/2 U Margerit Beusselst.
amm
Halemweg
Altonaer Str. D3 Fr.-Künstler-Str. G4 Knaackstr. H2 Olivaer Platz B4 Stralauer Allee IJ 4
Am Friedrichshain H2 Franz-Klühs-Str. F4 Knesebeckstr. C4 Oranienburger Str. FG 2/3 Stralauer Platz H4 Heilmannring
A 100
Am Hauptbahnhof H4 Französische Str. F3 Kniprodestr. I2 Oranienplatz F4 Stralauer Str. G3 S iem
Am Karlsbad F4 Fraunhoferstr. C3 Kochstr. F4 Oranienstr. FG 4 Straßburger Str. G2 ensdamm
Lise-Meitner
Beusselstr.
Weg ß-
Am Kupfergraben F3 Friedensstr. H 2/3 Kollwitzplatz H2 Otto-Braun-Str. GH 3 Straße der Pariser Kommune
Gro
Am Spreebord B3 Friedrichstr. F 3/4 Kollwitzstr. GH 2 Otto-Suhr-Allee BC 3 I 3/4
Dreieck Am Sie
Nikol.-
An der Urania D4 Fritschestr. A 3/4 Kommandantenstr. G4 Pappelallee GH 1 Straße des 17. Juni C 3-E 3 f
Charlottenburg Bahnhorn-
Str.
Anhalter Str. F4 Fuggerstr. DE 4 Königin-Elisabeth-Str. A 3/4 Pariser Platz F3 Strausberger Str. H3 2 Jungfernheide
ohrn-
Str. Jungfe tr. 2
-Str.
Annenstr. GH 4 Gartenstr. F 1/2 Konstanzer Str. B 4/5 Pariser Str. C5 Strelitzer Str. F2 am
m
U D heide gens
Sickin Moa
Berlichingenstr.
nd Max-
Ansbacher Str. D 4/5 Gaußstr. B2 Köpenicker Str. HI 4 Passauer Str. D4 Stresemannstr F4 N on n e e Wittstocker
Wiebestr.
Spre
Ufnaustr.
Goslare
r. Str.
Waldstr.
st
Emdener
Jungfernheide S Lambert
Lise-Meitner-Str.
Anton-Saefkow-Str. I2 Geisbergstr. C5 Koppenplatz G2 Pasteurstr. HI 2 Südstern G5
Rostocker
Neues
r.
Tegeler
Arndtstr. F5 Gendarmenmarkt F3 Kottbusser Damm H5 Paul-Lincke-Ufer H5 Swinemünder Str. FG 1/2 Olbers
str. Gaußst Hut
Str.
r Ufer
Aschaffenburger Str. D5 Georgenkirchstr. H 2/3 Kottbusser Str. H5 Perleberger Str. DE 2 Taubenstr. F3 briciusstr tens
Str.
. tr. Waldens
er
Fa
Schw
lstr.
Auerstr. I3 Georgenstr. F3 Krausenstr. F4 Pestalozzistr. BC 4 Tauentzienstr. D4
Ufer
arzer
tr.
estr.
Brah We Huttens
e
Augsburger Str. CD 4 Gertraudenstr. G3 Krausnickstr. G3 Petersburger Str. I3 Tegeler Weg B 2/3
Weg
rs
Hersch
estr. g tr.
Keple
Auguststr. FG 2 Geschw.-Scholl-Str. F3 Kreuzbergstr. F5 Pfalzburger Str. C 4/5 Tempelherrenstr. G5
Str.
Wieb
Klare
lin-
iner
Osnab bachstn- Tu
elstr.
Axel-Springer-Str. F4 Giesebrechtstr. B4 Kronenstr. F3 Pflugstr. F2 Templiner Str. G2
Reuch
Erasm
Str.
ücker r.
tr.
U Mierendorffplatz
Kamm
Schloß- Str. str. us-
B.-Lichtenberg-Str. HI 2 Gipsstr. G2 Krüllstr. I5 Pintschstr. I3 Thaerstr. IJ 3
nge str.
ys
garten Mierendorff- Kaiserin- Augusta- Allee
Tegele Bo n h o e
Beuss
Gotzkowsk
Wernigeroder
Baerwaldstr. G5 Gitschiner Str. F4 Krumme Str. B3 Planckstr. F3 Thaters Privatweg B1 Mind Zwinglistr.
er
platz
Ilsenburger
ener Goslarer
Fürstenbrunner
Klaustaler
ier Tauroggen
r-
O
Barbarossastr. D5 Glinkastr. F3 Kurfürstendamm A 5-C 4 Platz der Vereinten Nationen Tieckstr. F2
Neues
Kuchastr. 4 Morsestr.
Str. Nordhauser Str. Platz
.
Pulsstr.
str
Heubnerweg
Barnimstr. H 2/3 Gneisenaustr. FG 5 Kurfürstenstr. DE 4 H3 Tiergartenstr. DE 4
r W
str.chlesi
rff
A lt
Str.
Str.
- M o abit
St
Goslare
do
Bartningallee D3 Goethestr. BC 4 Kurstr. F3 Platz vor dem Neuen Tor F 2 Tile-Wardenberg-Str. C3
rski-
Sömmeringstr.
Sophie-Ch
Ufer
r. 2
eg
Pa
en
S
Quedlinburger Str.
Jagowstr.
Baruther Str. F5 Görlitzer Str. HI 4/5 L.-Hermann-Str. HI 2 Pohlstr. E4 Torstr. FG 2 -
4
Carnot- Heisenberg
scalst
fer str.
Bayerische Str. B 4/5 Görlitzer Ufer I5 Landsberger Allee H 2-I 2 Potsdamer Platz E4 Tucholsky-Str. F3
Darwinstr.
str.
M
f
u fer
r Ufer
r-
Bayerischer Platz D5 Gormannstr. G2 Langenbeckstr. I2 Potsdamer Str. E 4/5 Turmstr. CD 2 Schloß Halltre.
r.
A 100
str. Lev
arlot
s
holtz
Weg
Bebelplatz F3 Grainauer Str. C5 Lausitzer Str. H 4/5 Prager Str. C5 Uhlandstr. C 4/5 Charlottenburg etz
Charlottenbur
Am Spreebord Helm ow
ten-Str.
Behrenstr. F3 Greifswalder Str. HI 1/2 Legiendamm H4 Prenzlauer Allee H 1/2 Unter den Linden F3 ger Ag
str.
Ufe rico s tr
.
S p r ee
str
Belforter Str. GH 2 Grolmannstr. C4 Leibnizstr. B 3/4 Prinzenstr. F4 Unterbaumstr. F3 Eosanders r
.
AS
str
las
Wintersteinstr.
r.
tr.
tgeweg
Iburger Ufe Tile tr.
nstr.
nst
ve
r
w-
Bergmannstr. FG 5 Großbeerenstr. F5 Leipziger Platz F4 Pückler Str. H4 Urbanstr. GH 5 -
eyer-
Spandauer
S nge
Arcostr.
Do
Wa
go
nkli
istr.
andauer Damm
Röntge
Bernauer Str. FG 1/2 Große Hamburger Str. G 2/3 Leipziger Str. FG 4 Puschkinallee IJ 5 Veteranenstr. G2 Span Brauhofstr.
li
Damm Wu rd
Ja
So
Sp
Nithackstr.
Lohm
llen Str enbe
n
daue
zeileburg- Lüd
lv a
Ott
Sa
Fra
Klausener
Berolinastr. H3 Großer Stern Siegessäule D 3 Lennéstr. E4 Quedlinburger Str. B3 Virchowstr. I 2/3 r Damm Ei n z u f e r
K aise
Akazi o- we . rg
l
Alt- Lietzow
Ga
3 Westend Platz N 3
Wilmersdorfer
Bertolt-Brecht-Platz F3 Großgörschenstr. E5 Leuschnerdamm H4 R.-Schwarz-Str. I2 Voßstr. F4 enall Guericke- st e ber
ee Gardes-du- e u f ertstr. Gierkepl. Suh inu str.
S str.
tr.
fer
h-
r- Friedrich- Str
Bethaniendamm H4 Gruner Str. G3 Lewishamstr. B4 Raabestr. H2 W.-Kube-Str. I2 Ahorn- Corps -St r. Neue r-
Losc
str. Alle
str.lrausc
ers
Crusiu Schustehrus-
str.
Gue
rt
Beusselstr. C2 Grunewaldstr. D5 Lietzenburgerstr. CD 4 Rankestr. C4 W.-Stolze-Str. I3 platz str. Christ- e
Sieg Hof
str. s- rick
Wa
Christ- Behaim- str. Gut
Cau
hmi r.
str.
Schloßstr.
Bismarckstr. BC 3/4 Günzelstr. CD 5 Lietzenseeufer B4 Rathausstr. G3 Wadzeckstr. GH 3 est enb
Koh
Königin-Elisabeth
Danckelmanns
tr.
U Richard-Wagner- r.
e-
Nehringstr.
Gierkezeile
e
Str.
dtst
allee
str.rg-
str.
Charlotte
Soors
Fra
Abb
Bleibtreustr. C4 Gutenbergstr. C3 Lindenstr. FG 4 Rathenower Str. DE 2 Waldemarstr. H4 str.
tr.
Seeling - Haubach- Platz unh
Richard-Wa g n
AS
he
els
Sa i nu
rch
Ein
Blücherstr. FG 5 H.-Jadamowitz-Str. I3 Linienstr. FG 2 Regensburger Str. D5 Wallnerstr. H3 str. Ott ofe
Ahorn
rstr.
lisc
bb
lzu
fer
ste
Kaiser- solt str. o-
Ma
Thra
He
Bodestr. F3 H.-Kapelle-Str. I2 Lobeckstr. F4 Reichenberger Str. G 4-I 5 Wallstr. FG 4
Eng
Suh
Fritschestr.
fer
Str.
Krumme Str.
nstr.
Borsigstr. F2 Habersaathstr. EF 2 Lohmühlenstr. I5 Reichpietschufer E4 Warschauer Platz I4
damm r- Tiergarten
Haeselerstr.
Leibniz-
.
Zille- Allee
tr.
tr. str. Zillestr. Zillestr.
Bötzowstr. HI 2 Hallesches Ufer F4 Lottumstr. G2 Reichstagufer F3 Warschauer Str. I 3/4 Knobelsdorffs Ernst-
str.
Juni
Knobelsdorffstr.
Straße des 17.
er-Str.
Bouchéstr. I5 Händelallee D3 Ludwigkirchstr. C 4/5 Reinhardtstr. F3 Washingtonstr. E3 Kno belsdorffstr. Reuter-
-Str.
Horstweg Dt. Oper
.
r n str
Platz
Stülpnagel-
Ho
Brandenburger Tor F3 Hannoversche Str. F2 Luisenstr. F 2/3 Ritterstr. G4 Wassertorplatz F4 rst Sophie-Charlotte-
U Bismarckstr.
weg Bismarckstr. üller-
Soors
M
Brandenburgische Str. BC Hansaufer D3 Lützowufer DE 4 Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz G2 Wassertorstr. F4 Platz U Ernst-Reuter- Bre
str.
U Str. slau-
Salde
Bismarckstr. Platz
str.
4/5 Hanseatenweg D3 M.-Beer-Str. G 2/3 Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. G 2/3 Waterloo Ufer F5
Fredericiastr.
U CHARLOTTENBURG Schillerstr.
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dam m
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Ze
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Martin-Luther-Str.
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str.
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Str.
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str.
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Zossener
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Yorck fer inck
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r
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o
str.
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Str.
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Elbbolzstr.
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tr.
J
U . enba tr. er
kstr chstr Schönleinstr. U Bürkners
str.
fer
KREUZBERG
r.
gni
Yorkstr. S Gneis fho str.
.
Kleist-
str
c
eerenst
Str.
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Yor
-
Barbarossastr. Yorck .
r.
str.
m
fe n
tr.
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Barbarossastr. enau lzs
.
Eisenacher
Lie
hé
gau
(Großgörschenstr.)
rstr
ldst
tr.
s tr. tr.
Grim
tr. ers M
Berchtesgadener
Park
machers
nd
str.
str. Gneisena
uc
Sa
Friedelstr.
s
efe
ayb
er Str.
len
Möckernstr.
Hagel- ustr.
ibo
Großgörschenstr S
Glo
b ur
Bo
Man achufe
rwa
Goltz-
berger Str.
Bl
m
de
nlein
Str.
buss
Gra
Bautzener Str.
promntane-
Nostitz-
üh
.
üc
.
Großb
str
Rat
ge r
itius
Solmsstr.
ena
U r
hringdam
Yorkstr. erstr.
he
hm
Bae
lüg s l l
Ka
lstr. enheimer Str. . Pf tr H eid Krü
rst
Zossener
str .
Schö
U
Lo
.
Ros
Schleier
str
rl-
Str
. Gneis
Fichtest
r.
r.
rte
er D
Fo
Hobrech
Str.
K
nst
elb
lle
dstr.
La
Str.
Kö
un
enau
Grunewal
str.
.
.
str
Kreuzbergstr
naer
ng
Bayerischer e
erstr.
Cre
Bergm
ge
nse
str. Süd- Schmoller- rger
en
e
Vorbe annstr Urb

str.
efe
r-S
ns
Platz Pf
am
r
Na
Els
tr
ch
F
D E F G H I
74 INDEX
Aapka 27 Drei 33 Kilkenny Irish Pub 14, 31 Potsdamer Platz 48
ackselhaus 21 Dressler 38 Kingkongklub 31 Prinzessinnensaal 9
Adam's Media Cafe 23 Duke 38 Knese 37 Propeller Island City Lodge 20
Adlon 15 Dunmore Cave 47 Konnopkes Imbiss 23 Q! 20
Air Service Berlin 53 Duy Thai 32 Kuchen Kaiser 43 QBA 29
AB
15,90
Alberts 27 Egyptian Museum 52 Ku'Damm 101 19 Que Pasa 46
Al Contadino Sotto Le Stelle 28 Einhorn 38 Kula Karma 30 Radisson SAS 16
Al Hamra 32 El Dorado 39 Kumpelnest 3000 40 Reederei Riedel 61
Alliiertenmuseum
Alpenstueck
56
26
Ellington Hotel
Estrel
15
16
Label 205
Labyrinth Kindermuseum
23
59
Reederei Winkler
Refugium
61
28
FROM
Alt Berliner Biersalon 37, 40 Fat Tire Bike Tours 55 La Forchetta 39 Reichstag/Bundestag 49
Alte Nationalgalerie 52 Fernsehturm 54 Latlon Berlin 55 Reingold 30
Altes Museum 52 Filmmuseum Potsdam 58 Leysieffer 36 Reinhardt's 28
Amar 44 Filmpark Babelsberg Lodge Berlin 21 Renger-Patzsch 37
Amrit 44 14, 57, 58, 59 Lovelite 34 Riehmer's 42
AM to PM 30 First Floor 36 LOXX Miniaturwelten 59 Riehmers Hofgarten 21
Am Zoo 15 Fischers Fritz 24 Luisenhof 19 Ristorante Ciao 39
Anna Blume 32 Florian 38 Lutter & Wegner 24 Ritz-Carlton 17
Aqua Lounge 30 FLUXUS+ Museum 57 Luxor Club 41 Rivabar 30
ARCOTEL Velvet 15 Francucci's 39 Madame Tussauds 53 Roter Salon 31
Art Center Berlin 51 Freischwimmer 46 Magnet Club 33 Route 66 35
Artist Hotel Riverside 18 Friedrichshain 21 Mai Tai Bar 30 Sage Club 47
art'otel Berlin City Centre West 15 Ganymed 28 Mandala 16 Sale e Tabacchi 45
Asado 38 Geburtstagsklub 33 Manngo 22 Salon Schmück 46
Askania 65 Gedächtniskirche 48 Margaux 24 Sammlung Berggruen 51
Assel 23 Gemäldegalerie 50 Maria am Ufer 34 Savoy Berlin 17
Astoria 18 Gendarmenmarkt 48 Maritim proArte 16 Schloss Cecilienhof 57
Astro-bar 34 Georgbräu 23 Mark 20 Schloss Charlottenburg 52
BERLIN
Atrium Lobby Lounge & Bar 30 Get2riCard 49 Mark Apart 20 Schnitzelei 36
Austria 42 Gorgonzola Club 45 Märkisches Museum 50 Schoko-Laden 31
Bar am Lützowplatz 40 Grand Esplanade 16 Marmorpalais 57 Schöneberger Weltlaterne 38
Bar an der Karl-Marx-Allee 34 Grand Hyatt 16 Marooush 10, 39 Schwarzwaldstuben 27
Barcomi's Deli 43 Grenander Morning Glory 36 Marriott 16 Seehof 17
Bauhaus Archiv 49 Grosser Kurfürst 18 Martin-Gropius-Bau 50 Severin & Kühn 53
Bavarium 37 Grüner Salon 31 Mar y Sol 40 SO36 47
Berlin 15 Gugelhof 33 Matrix 34 Soda Club 33
Berlin City Tour 53 Habel Weinkultur 26 Maxwell 24 Sofitel Berlin Gendarmenmarkt 17
Berliner Dom 48 Habermeyer 34 Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Sofitel Berlin Schweizerhof 17
CITYTOURCARD
Berlinische Galerie 49 Hackescher Hof 26 Europe 52 Sophieneck 23
Berlin on Bike 54 Hackescher Markt 18 Mercure Airport Hotel Berlin Tegel Spielbank Potsdam 58
Berlin Plaza 18 Hamburger Bahnhof 50 21 Spindler & Klatt 47
Berlin Plaza Bar 40 Hard Rock Café 35, 40 Mercure Hotel Berlin an der Ständige Vertretung 27
Berlin Trails 53 Harry's New York Bar 40 Charité 21 Stasi Museum 56
Berlin Underworlds 54 Hasir 29 Metzer Eck 33 State Museum Card 49
Berlin Walks 54 Haus am Checkpoint Charlie 56 Milchbar 46 Steakhaus San Diego 34
Berlin Wall Memorial
Berlin Zoo & Aquarium
Best Western President
56
59
18
HEat
Hecker's
Hefner
28
19
40
Mirchi
Mitte Bar
Mittmann's
27
30
26
Steigenberger Hotel Berlin
Story of Berlin
Strandbad Mitte
17
52
31
DAS TOURISTEN-TICKET
b-flat 31 Henne 44 Mola 39 Suksan 35
Berlin Infostore 48 Hilton 16 Mommsen-Eck 41 Sumo 45
Biosphäre Potsdam 58 Hollywood Media Hotel 19 Montevideo 39 Suppenbörse 28
Bleibtreu 18 Hoppetosse 46 Motel One 20 Sushi Circle 29
Bode Museum 52 HSH Apartments Mitte 17 Magic Mountain 59 Sushi Imbiss am Wasserturm 33
Borchardt 24 HSH Apartments Wilmersdorf Museum für Asiatische Kunst 51 Swissôtel Berlin 17
Brandenburger Hof 15 AAAAA 17 Museum für Film und Fernsehen 51 Sylter Hof 20
Brandenburger Tor 48 HSH Hotel Albergo - Partner of Mutter Hoppe 26 tausche Taschen 64
Brecht-Haus Kellerrestaurant 22 SORAT Hotels **** 19 Myer's 20 Technical Museum 53
Brewer's Berlin 55 Hugos 36 Naturkundemuseum 51, 59 Telecafé 28
Bröhan Museum 50 Icon 33 Neue Nationalgalerie 51 The Regent Berlin 18
BSM Excursion 55 Il Nido 39 Neues Palais 57 TIC Prenzlauer Berg 50
Café Adler 26 IMAX 51 Neue Synagoge 48 Tim's Canadian Deli 36
Café am Engelbecken 43 Immer gern 32 Neue Wache 52 Trabi Safari 56
Café de France 24 Insider Tours 55 Newton Bar 30 Traube 28
Café de Paris 36 InterContinental 16 Nikolaiviertel 48 Treffpunkt Berlin 27
Café im Literaturhaus 36 Irish Harp Pub 14 Nocti Vagus 33 Trompete 41
Café Istoria 33 Irish Pub 41 No Kangaroo 42, 45 VAU 24
Café Springfield 44 Jewish Museum 50 Nola's am Weinberg 28 Victoria Bar 41
Chantrey 42 Joe's Wirtshaus zum Löwen 37 Noodle Kitchen 22 Villa Kastania 20
Charlottchen restaurant 59 Joseph Roth Diele 40 Onitsuka Tiger Store Berlin 64 Villa von Haacke 58
Cinestar CineKidz 59 Julep's New York Bar & Restaurant Operncafé 23 Wall Walks 55
CityTourCard 49 35 Opernpalais 9 Watergate 47
Concorde 15 Junction Bar 46 Operntreff 26 Week-End Club 31
Crowne Plaza Berlin City Centre 15 Juwelier Heidenreich 65 Oranium 28 Weihenstephaner 27
Cum Laude 23 Kadima 29 Oscar Wilde 31 Weinstein 33
Cup Cake 34 Käfer Dachgarten 28 Osteria N°1 45 Welcome Card 49
Curry 36 23 Kaffeebank 23 Osteria No. 1 restaurant 59 Weltrestaurant Markthalle 44
Dante 31 Kaffee Burger 30 Ottenthal 35 Westin Grand 18
Departmentstore Quartier 206 63 Kaffee Fröhlich 33 Pagode 42 Wild at Heart 47
Deutsche Guggenheim 50 Kaffeeladen 34 Palace 16 Wohnzimmer 33
Deutsches Historisches Museum Kaiserstuben 28 Panorama-Punkt 54 Würgeengel 46
50 Kamala 22 Paris-Moskau 24 Yakitori Rokko 39
Deutsch-Russisches Museum 56 Kartoffel Pfanne 44 Park Inn 20 Yorckschlösschen 10, 47
Diekmann 38 Kasbah 29 Park Plaza 20 Zille-Stube 27
Die Quadriga 36 Kato 46 Park Sanssouci 57 Zoologischer Garten 55
D.O.M.I.C.I.L. 18 Kaufbar 34 Parlamento 45 Zum Nussbaum 27
Döner Imbiss 23 Kempinski Bristol 16 Pergamon Museum 52 Zur Letzten Instanz 27
Drachenhaus 58 Kennedy Museum 12, 50 Photography museum 51 Zwiebelfisch 41
Dragon’s In 58 Keyser Soze 30 Play Off 22
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Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

18-19 Apr, 20:00 PH 2-3 May, 20:00 PH

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Paris C-4, Kurfürstendamm 211, CB, MUhland-

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

Sophieneck G-2/3, Große

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Mittmann’s G/H-3, Rungestr. 11, MI, MHeinrich-

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Nola’s am Weinberg G-2, Veteranenstr. 9, MI,

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Kaffee Fröhlich H-2, Belforter Str. 22, PB, MSenefelder

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Friedrichshain Western Berlin

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The Original! 47 50 60, www.restaurant-mola.de. After charging your

Classic shopping and dining!

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Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

Café am Engelbecken H-4, Heinrich Heine Pl, KB,

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Sale e Tabacchi F-4, Rudi Dutschke Str. 23, KB,

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

it as their drawing card. The square’s name stems from the

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Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

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BERLINER UNTERWELTEN E.V.

Concert Delights & Culinary Treats

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Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

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After flowing a bucolic 400km from the Czech border

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tausche Taschen Onitsuka Tiger Store Berlin Askania Heidenreich jewellery

How to reach us:

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

Dietrich-Bonhoeffer-Str. H 2 Hufelandstr. H2 Mittelstr. F3 Schönleinstr. H5 Württembergische Str. C 4/5

E.-Boltze-Str. I2 Joachimstr. G2 Motzstr. CD 4/5 Schwerinstr. E5 Zionskirchstr. G2 Gillstr. lisc e s

ots ed park olle ch

4EL s&AX