Wind Generator

With just a motor and some pipe, you can build

this efficient and inexpensive wind generator—
and enjoy free electricity!
This project, originally written by Abe and Josie Connally in
Make: Magazine Volume 5, can produce a sweet 20 volts in a
steady 15 mph wind. While not enough to power your suburban
split-level home, it’s sufficient to make a small contribution to-
wards a greener planet. More importantly, the project will give
you a low-cost introduction to generators and wind power.

Tools
Drill and drill bits Wire strippers
Jig saw Metal punch or awl
Thread-tapping set Tape measure
Pipe wrench Marker, masking tape
Crescent wrench Compass
Screwdrivers Protractor
Vise and/or clamp
Volt/Ammeter

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Materials
MOTOR:
The motor used for this project is a 260 volt DC, 5 amp treadmill
motor with a 6” threaded flywheel. However, you can use any
other simple, permanent-magnet DC motor that returns at least
1 volt for every 25 rpm and can handle upwards of 10 amps. If you
use a motor without a flywheel, you will have to find a hub for it. (A
circular saw blade with a 3” shaft adaptor will work.)
Bridge rectifier (30-50A ) with center hole mount, available at
surpluscenter.com, item #22-1180
Mounting screw
Copper wire #8 (or larger), stranded. Buy enough wire to run from
the top of the tower where you plan to mount your generator, to the
batteries.
Spade connectors
Batteries (deep-cycle lead-acid storage batteries are recommended.
We used two 6-volt batteries connected in series.)

BLADES:
2’ length of 8” Schedule 80 PVC pipe.
¼” #20 bolts, ¾” long (6)
#20 washers (9)
Lock washers (6)
Hose clamp
Angle iron, 2” x 30”

TAIL:
12” x 18” (approx.) of medium gauge sheet metal
¼” sheet metal screws (3)
¼” bolts, nuts, and lock washers (3)

MOUNT FOR GENERATOR:

36” length of 1” U-shaped metal channel
1 ½” diameter flange
1 ½” diameter pipe, length determined by the height at which you’ll
mount your wind generator (ours was 4’), threaded at both ends
1½” diameter pipe, 6” long, threaded at both ends
½” diameter pipe union
Mounting screws
#72 hose clamps (2)

Estimated cost: $200 - although this may vary depending on

the availability of recycled parts.

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Before you begin:

You may find it necessary to modify these instructions, depending on
what materials and tools you have at hand, and any improvements
you might want to make in the design. Go ahead and customize the
project and make it your own!

NOTE: Details regarding the design and construction of a suitable

tower for holding and supporting the generator are not included
here. You should consult with an expert about the best way to erect
a permanent tower, and to connect the unit(s) to a wind storage
and voltage regulation system.

Step 1. Cut the PVC for the turbine blades

Because the blades will be subject to significant stress, it is im-
portant to use Schedule 80 PVC. A plastics supplier may be able
to provide you with a short section at reasonable cost. Do not use
standard PVC sewer pipe.

First, clamp the 24” length of PVC pipe to a work surface to prevent
it from rolling around. Next, place a length of angle iron against the
PVC pipe. Holding the angle tight against the tubing, mark three
lines 5 ¼” apart down the length of the pipe (see diagram on the
next page).

Use a jigsaw with a medium fine blade to cut along the lines. While
a single generator requires only three blades, the 8” diameter PVC
provides enough raw materials for nine identically shaped trapezoi-
dal blades, or enough blades for three generators.

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1. Lay out the cutting lines 2. Cut 3 blades from tube 3. Trim a notch on each blade
3 13/16”
2 1/2”

24”

4 1/8 ” 1 1/8”

Step 2. Shape the blades

For best results, sand the blades into an airfoil shape as shown in
the diagram below. This will significantly increase the efficiency of
the blades.

The angled (leading) edge should be rounded, and the straight

(trailing) edge should be pointed.

We tested a version of this project without sanding the blades and

even in a steady wind, the generator produced only 10 volts. When
we shaped the blades as indicated here, the voltage output more
than doubled.

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Step 3. Drill and attach the blades to the flywheel

For each blade, mark two holes along the leading edge of the blade,
opposite the notch. The holes are both 3/8” in from the edge; the
½”
first hole is ½” from the end, the second is 1 ¼” from the end, as 1 ¼”
indicated in the photo.

Using the ¼” drill bit, drill these holes in all three blades
3/8”

.
Detach the hub from the motor shaft. For our motor, we removed
the hub by firmly holding the end of the shaft with pliers and turn-
ing the hub clockwise. (Our hub unscrews clockwise, counter to the
usual direction.)

Using a compass and protractor, make a template of the hub on a

piece of paper. Then mark three holes, each 2 3/8” from the center
of the hub, 120° apart. Place this template over the hub and use a
metal punch or awl to punch a starter hole through the paper and
onto the hub.

Drill the holes with the 7/32”

drill bit, then tap them with
a ¼” tap. Drill only the first three
holes at this point.

Attach the blades to the hub with

a bolt through the second hole
from the end of the blade.

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Measure the distances between the tips of each blade, and adjust
them so that they are equidistant. This is important for optimum
efficiency. Mark and punch starter holes for the three inner holes
on the hub through the empty holes in each blade.

Remove the blades, and drill and tap the three inner holes on the
hub.

With all six holes now drilled and tapped, position each blade on the
hub so that all the holes line up. Using the ¼” bolts and washers,
bolt the blades back onto the hub.

12”

4”
Step 4. Assemble the support frame
8 ½”
First, build the tail. Use tin snips to cut your tail pattern from a large
piece of sheet metal. De-burr any sharp edges or corners with a file.
(The dimensions are not critical.)
13”
18”
8 ½”

4” 4”
5 ½”

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Attach the tail to the metal

channel using three ¼” sheet
metal screws. Attach the pipe
flange to the metal channel
using two sets of ¼” bolts,
nuts, and washers.

Next, assemble the stand for

the wind generator. First, screw
the 1½” pipe union to the pipe
support. Then screw the 6” pipe
into the other end of the union.
Leave the union a little bit loose
so the top pipe section can turn
freely.

Finally, screw the frame and

pipe flange assembly onto the
6” pipe. Tighten securely.

Step 5. Mount the generator

Using hose clamps, mount the
motor on the end of the chan-
nel opposite the tail.

Drill a 9/64” pilot hole in the

channel, near the end of the
motor. Screw the rectifier to
the channel using a sheet metal
screw.

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Re-attach the blade assembly
to the motor by spinning the
assembly onto the threaded
shaft. We recommend that you
cut a groove into the shaft end
so you can hold it with a
screwdriver blade while you
tighten the hub.

Step 6. Test the generator

We recommend performance testing your wind generator before
permanently mounting it. Set it up in a location with a steady wind.
Be sure the unit is well anchored before testing.

To test our wind generator, we mounted it in the bed of a pickup

truck and drove it at a steady 15 mph down a deserted and straight
stretch of road. Our voltmeter, connected to the bridge rectifier,
registered 20-25 volts.

Step 7. The wind generator is complete. Now what?

Once you’re satisfied with the performance of your generator, you
may be wondering, “How many wind generators and batteries do I
need to run my household?” The answer depends on more factors
that we can easily cover here.

If you’re serious about creating electricity from your wind genera-

tor, consult with an expert about the best way to erect a permanent
tower and to connect the unit(s) to a wind storage and regulation
system.

This website is an excellent resource:

http://www.velacreations.com/offgridsystem.html

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WARNING: This wind generator is presented as a simple

introduction to wind power and is not intended for unsupervised
operation during periods of high wind.
• Always ground and fuse your electrical system, as well as each
component within it.
• Always stand upwind when near the wind generator to avoid fly-
ing debris in the event of failure.
• Unless your wind generator is unconnected and lying on the
ground, it must be connected to a battery or other electrical
load. Otherwise, the blades can spin freely and, in a high wind,
attain dangerous speeds.
• In the event of very high winds, tie down the blades.

TELL US HOW YOUR WIND GENERATOR WORKS!

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Resources:
Further information regarding one user’s experience is available at
http://www.velacreations.com/maketower.html

For more information on wind power, visit:

http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_wind.html

Use of the instructions here and on Make: television is at your own risk. Twin Cities
Public Television, Inc., O’Reilly Media, Inc., the show’s sponsors, producers, and
distributors disclaim all responsibility for any damage, injury, and expense resulting
from these projects.
Your safety is your own responsibility and that includes the proper use of equipment
and safety gear and determination of whether you have the requisite skills to
successfully and safely undertake the project. These projects are not intended for
children.
It is mandatory that you understand that technology, laws, and limitations imposed
by manufacturers and content owners are constantly changing. Thus, all Make:
television projects may not work, may be inconsistent with current laws or user
agreements, or may damage or adversely affect some equipment.

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