cooker

THE

NEW SLOW
MORE THAN 100 HANDS-OFF mEALS TO SATISFY THE WHOLE FAMILY

BRIGIT BINNS

The New Slow Cook

When they first appeared in the 1970s, slow cookers were widely promoted as time-savers. The earliest models allowed home cooks to come home after a full days work and serve a delicious homemade meal that tasted as if they had spent hours stirring a pot on the stove top. Today, the latest generation of slow cookers offers that same appealing convenience, plus new options that expand their versatility beyond what was possible in those early days. Decades ago, cooks typically tossed a few ingredients into a slow cooker, switched it on, and were content with whatever emerged when the selected time had elapsed. And indeed, without fail, slow cookers still produce fork-tender meat just as they did in the past. But they can also turn out uniformly soft textures, watery flavors, and dull colors, qualities perhaps overlooked in the past in favor of the slow cookers convenience. Todays cooksand dinerswant more. In the following pages, you will discover how to ensure your slow-cooked dishes have bright, fresh flavors, colors, and textures. Not only will you understand the importance of selecting the best meats, fish, beans, grains, and vegetables for the slow cooker, but you will also learn how to prepare those ingredients to draw out the most flavor, as well as how to use aromatics, herbs,

and garnishes, salads, or other fresh components to heighten the flavor and appeal of everything you serve. You will also find tips on seasoning for maximum effect, on how to layer ingredients for even cooking, on why browning some ingredients before they go in the cooker contributes more complex flavors, and on how to choose the best slow cooker for your household. Many of the recipes that follow are innovative updates of classic slow-cooker dishes, such as a meltingly tender beef stew garnished with crisp frise dressed in a baconshallot vinaigrette. Others are brand new, such as a Mediterranean-inspired honey-braised pork loin dressed up with succulent fresh figs, spicy arugula, and crunchy pistachios. Slow cooking recipes often skip fish dishes, but here salmon is simmered with memorable results: the fish, perfumed with herbs, becomes tender and succulent. Vegetables, too, are often ignored, but not in these pages: French ratatouille cooks gently in the steady heat of the slow cooker and emerges with the colors of its summer vegetables still bright and appealing. All of the recipes in this book deliver the fork-tender texture and kitchen ease that were hallmarks of recipes for early slow cookers. But they are also deliciously contemporary, rich in the robust flavors, crunchy textures, and bright colors of the modern table.

Asian-Style Short Ribs

6 lb ( 3 kg) beef short ribs, English cut, trimmed of most fat Salt and freshly ground pepper
34

Preheat the broiler. Season the ribs all over with 34 teaspoon each salt and pepper and the five-spice powder, and place on a rack set in a rimmed baking sheet. Broil, turning once, until nicely browned and sizzling on both sides, 810 minutes on each side. In a slow cooker, stir together the hoisin sauce and ketchup, vinegar, soy sauce, fish sauce, honey, onion, ginger, and garlic. Add the ribs and turn to coat evenly with the hoisin mixture. Stack the thicker ribs at the bottom of the slow cooker. Cover and cook on the low setting for 6 hours. The meat should be very tender. Remove the ribs from the slow cooker, and serve the meat on or off the bones. Divide among warm shallow bowls or plates, moisten each serving with some of the braising liquid, and top with a large spoonful of the salad, if using. Garnish with the nuts, if using, and serve at once.

BEEF

teaspoon five-spice powder

14

cup (2 oz/60 g) each hoisin sauce and ketchup, or 12 cup (4 oz/ 125 g) ketchup 2 tablespoons rice vinegar 2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon Asian fish sauce 1 tablespoon honey 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped 1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger 5 cloves garlic, smashed Daikon Salad for serving (see note; optional) 2 tablespoons chopped roasted peanuts or cashews (optional)
MAKES 6 SERVINGS

A D D F R E S H N E S S W I T H DA I K O N S A L A D In a bowl, combine 1 large daikon, about 3 4 lb (375 g), peeled and

julienned or shredded on the large holes of a box grater; 2 carrots, peeled and julienned or shredded on the large holes of a box grater; 1 shallot, minced; and 12 cup ( 12 oz/15 g) chopped fresh cilantro or flat-leaf parsley leaves. Add 3 tablespoons peanut oil and 1 tablespoon rice vinegar and toss to coat evenly.

Braised Beef with Arugula & Grapefruit Salad

Season the beef generously all over with salt and pepper. In a large frying pan over medium-high heat, warm the oil. When the oil is hot, add the beef and sear, turning as needed, until deep golden brown on all sides, about 10 minutes total. Transfer the beef to a plate. Pour off most of the fat from the pan and return to medium-high heat. Add the onion and celery and saut until golden, about 6 minutes. Pour in the apple juice and stir to dislodge any browned bits on the pan bottom. Transfer the contents of the pan to a slow cooker, add the bay leaves, and place the beef on top. Cover and cook on the low setting for 8 hours. The beef should be very tender. Transfer the beef to a cutting board and let rest for about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, using a large spoon, skim the fat from the braising liquid. Snip the strings on the beef and shred with 2 forks or slice across the grain. Divide the beef among individual plates, and spoon enough of the braising liquid on top to moisten (reserve the remainder for another use or discard). Mound the salad on top of or alongside the beef. Serve at once.

39

BEEF

cup (4 fl oz/ 125 ml) apple juice, preferably unfiltered 3 bay leaves

Arugula and Grapefruit Salad for serving (see note)

A D D F R E S H N E S S W I T H A R U G U L A A N D G R A P E F R U I T S A L A D In a bowl, whisk together 112 tablespoons white

wine vinegar, 1 teaspoon honey mustard, 14 teaspoon salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Whisk in 14 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil. Add 4 cups (4 oz/125 g) baby arugula; 2 avocados, halved, pitted, peeled, and sliced lengthwise
1

2 inch (12 mm) thick; 1 large grapefruit, peeled and segmented (page 217); 23 cup (3 oz/90 g) hazelnuts, toasted and

skinned (page 217); and 4 large fresh basil leaves, finely slivered (optional). Toss gently to mix.

Balsamic-Braised Sausages
1 12 lb ( 750 g) fresh sweet or hot Italian pork sausages 1 large shallot, finely chopped
12

Preheat the broiler. Arrange the sausages on a rack set in a rimmed baking sheet. Broil, turning as needed, until golden brown all over, 89 minutes total. Transfer the sausages to a plate. In a slow cooker, stir together the shallot, fennel, celery, garlic, 12 teaspoon salt, and several grinds of pepper. Top with the broiled sausages and add the stock and balsamic and white wine vinegars. Cover and cook on the high setting for 2 12 hours or on the low setting for 5 12 hours, turning the sausages over halfway through if possible. The sausages should be tender and cooked through. In a bowl, combine the grapes and watercress, drizzle with enough of the vinaigrette to coat lightly, and toss to coat evenly. Divide the sausages among warm individual plates, spoon some of the braising liquid around the sausages, and top with the grapes and watercress. Serve at once.

73

PORK & LAMB

fennel bulb, cored and finely chopped

1 stalk celery, finely chopped 5 cloves garlic, smashed Salt and freshly ground pepper cup (5 fl oz/ 160 ml) chicken stock, homemade (page 214) or purchased 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons dry white wine 2 12 cups ( 15 oz/470 g) seedless red or green grapes, halved 1 bunch watercress, tough stems removed
1 3 2 3

cup ( 3 fl oz/80 ml) Shallot Vinaigrette (page 216)

Be sure to use fresh sausages, rather than smoked ones, for this recipe. Browning them first in a broiler highlights their meaty flavor, and the slow cooker transforms them, making them meltingly tender. The fresh, robust flavors of the saladtart-sweet grapes and peppery watercressare the perfect counterpoint to the braised sausages. Large, dark purple grapes, which should be quartered rather than halved, are also lovely in this salad.

Chicken with Saffron Rice

Large pinch of saffron threads cup (4 fl oz/ 125 ml) plus 3 tablespoons dry white wine 1 whole chicken, about 3 12 lb ( 1.75 kg), cut into 8 pieces (2 thighs, 2 drumsticks, 2 breast-wing portions, 2 lower-breast portions) Salt and freshly ground pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped 3 bay leaves 5 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 teaspoon dried oregano 4 cups ( 32 fl oz/l l) chicken stock, homemade (page 214) or purchased 2 cups ( 14 oz/440 g) long-grain white rice 2 large jarred roasted pimiento peppers, seeded and chopped (about 1 12 cups/9 oz/ 280 g) Warm Asparagus Salad for serving (see note; optional)
MAKES 6 8 SERVINGS
12

Soak the saffron in the 3 tablespoons wine for 20 minutes. Oil the slowcooker insert. Pat the chicken dry and season generously all over with salt and pepper. In a large, heavy frying pan over medium-high heat, warm the oil. When the oil is hot, working in batches to avoid crowding, add the chicken and sear, turning as needed, until golden brown, about 8 minutes total. Transfer the chicken to a plate. Pour off most of the fat from the pan and return to medium-high heat. Add the onion and bay leaves and saut until the onion is golden, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Add the oregano,
1 2

P O U LT R Y

teaspoon salt, several grinds of pepper, the saffron mixture, and the

remaining 12 cup wine and stir to dislodge any browned bits on the pan bottom. Add the contents of the pan and the stock to the slow cooker and then stir in the rice. Nestle the chicken in the rice, cover, and cook on the low setting for 3 hours. Uncover and check to be sure a little liquid is still visible at the bottom of the cooker. If it appears dry, add 1 tablespoon water. Sprinkle the chopped pimiento evenly over the rice, then re-cover and cook for 15 minutes more. Spoon the chicken and rice onto a large warm platter or individual plates and top with the salad, if using. Serve at once.

A D D F R E S H N E S S W I T H WA R M A S PA R AG U S S A L A D Trim the tough stem ends from 1 lb (500 g) asparagus, peel

the lower 2 inches (5 cm) with a vegetable peeler, then cut the spears into 112-inch (4-cm) lengths. Bring a saucepan threefourths full of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add all the asparagus pieces except the tips and cook for 4 minutes. Add the tips and cook until all the pieces are just tender, about 2 minutes longer. Drain well. In a bowl, combine the warm asparagus, 112 tablespoons fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, and 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed. Drizzle with 13 12 cup (34 fl oz/ 80125 ml) Lemon Vinaigrette (page 216) to coat lightly and toss well. Serve at once.

Simple Fish Bouillabaisse

In a large, heavy frying pan over low heat, warm the oil. Add the garlic, fennel seeds, and bay leaves and cook gently, stirring occasionally, until the garlic is fragrant and tender, about 10 minutes. Do not let the garlic brown. Stir in the tomato paste and 1 12 teaspoons salt and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Pour in the wine and stir to combine. Transfer the contents of the pan to a slow cooker. Cut off the stem and feathery tops and any bruised outer stalks from the fennel bulb; coarsely chop the feathery tops to yield 2 tablespoons and set aside. Cut the bulb lengthwise into wedges and trim away the core, leaving a little core intact to hold each wedge together. Add the fennel wedges, tomatoes, and stock to the slow cooker, cover, and cook on the low setting for 3 hours. Add the fish, re-cover, and cook for 30 minutes more. The fish should be firm but tender. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the fish and fennel wedges to a large plate. Remove and discard the bay leaves. Pure the soup with an immersion blender. (Alternatively, for a chunkier soup, transfer half of the mixture to a blender, process until smooth, then return the pure to the slow cooker and stir to combine.) Ladle the tomato broth into warm shallow bowls, and divide the fish and fennel wedges evenly among the bowls. Garnish each serving with a little orange zest, the reserved chopped fennel tops, and the chervil, if using. Serve at once with the crostini alongside.

135

SEAFOOD

cup (2 oz/60 g) tomato paste

Salt and freshly ground pepper

cup ( 3 fl oz/80 ml) dry white wine 1 large fennel bulb

1 can ( 15 oz/470 g) crushed tomatoes, with juice 5 cups (40 fl oz/ 1.25 l) fish or vegetable stock, homemade (page 215 ) or purchased 2 lb ( 1 kg) fresh cod or monkfish fillets, cut into 2-inch (5 -cm) chunks Grated zest of 1 orange 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chervil (optional) Crostini (page 216) for serving
MAKES 4 6 SERVINGS

Here is an easy version of bouillabaisse, the famed fish soup of Marseilles, crowned with fresh herbs, orange zest, and crunchy crostini. For an even more sublime flavor, substitute 2 tablespoons Pernod or other anise-flavored liqueur for 2 tablespoons of the white wine. For an authentic touch, top the crostini with a dollop of red pepper aioli (page 93).

Each season offers new flavors for the slow cooker. Summer brings ratatouille thick with zucchini, tomatoes, and peppers, and autumn inspires hearty stuffed cabbages and citrus-scented beets. Butternut squash soup and honey-laced sweet potatoes sustain us through the cold months, until spring welcomes crisp, tender peas, green artichokes, and tiny new potatoes.

Butternut Squash & Apple Soup

Halve the squash lengthwise, scoop out and discard the seeds and strings, and then peel the halves. Cut into 1 12 -inch (4-cm) chunks and season generously with salt and pepper. In a large, heavy frying pan over medium-high heat, warm the oil. When the oil is hot, working in batches if necessary to avoid crowding, add the squash and saut until nicely browned, 810 minutes. Transfer to a slow cooker. Add the onion to the frying pan and saut over medium-high heat until beginning to color, about 5 minutes. Pour in the apple juice and stir to dislodge any browned bits on the pan bottom. Stir in the wine and stock and transfer the contents of the pan to the slow cooker. Cover and cook on the low setting for 3 hours. Add the apple, re-cover, and cook for 1 hour more. The squash and apple should be tender. Let the soup cool slightly. Working in batches, transfer to a blender and process until smooth. Return the pure to the slow cooker and stir in the cream. Cover and keep warm on the low setting until ready to serve. In a small bowl, whisk together the yogurt, curry powder, and 14 teaspoon salt. Ladle the soup into warm shallow bowls and drizzle each serving with some of the curried yogurt. Sprinkle with parsley and scatter the fried shallots, if using, over the top. Serve at once.

157

V E G E TA B L E S

cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) canola oil

small yellow onion, thinly sliced

1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 ml) apple juice, preferably unfiltered 1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 ml) floral white wine such as Riesling 1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 ml) vegetable or chicken stock, homemade (page 214 215 ) or purchased 1 Granny Smith or other tart green apple, peeled, cored, and cut into small chunks
12

cup (4 fl oz/ 125 ml) heavy cream

12

cup (4 oz/ 125 g) plain yogurt

teaspoon curry powder

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley Fried Shallots for garnish (see note; optional)
MAKES 4 6 SERVINGS

A D D C R U N C H W I T H F R I E D S H A L L O T S Pour canola oil to a depth of 1 inch (2.5 cm) into a large, deep frying pan

and heat to 350F (180C) on a deep-frying thermometer. Meanwhile, slice 2 shallots paper-thin and separate into rings. Coat the rings with flour, tapping off the excess. When the oil is ready, add the shallot rings and fry until crisp and golden, about 2 minutes. Using a wire skimmer, transfer to paper towels to drain. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper.

Balsamic-Braised Onions
168

1 lb (500 g) cipolline onions 1 cinnamon stick

Bring a saucepan three-fourths full of water to a boil. Add the onions and boil for 1 minute. Drain in a colander and place under cold running water until cool. Trim a thin slice off the root and stem ends of each onion, keeping a little of the root end intact to help them stay together during cooking. Peel the onions, then cut each in half lengthwise. In a slow cooker, combine the onions, cinnamon stick, stock, vinegar, tomatoes, 12 teaspoon salt, and several grinds of pepper and stir to mix well. Cover and cook on the low setting for 6 hours. The onions should be tender and just beginning to fall apart. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the onions and tomatoes to a warm serving bowl, garnish with the sage, and serve at once. Alternatively, if making the bruschetta, spoon the onions and tomatoes onto the cheese-topped bruschetta, sprinkle with the sage, and serve.

V E G E TA B L E S

1 cup (8 fl oz/ 250 ml) chicken or vegetable stock, homemade (page 214215 ) or purchased
1 3

cup ( 3 fl oz/80 ml) balsamic vinegar

1 can ( 15 oz/470 g) diced tomatoes, drained Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh sage Goat Cheese Bruschetta for serving (see note; optional)
MAKES 8 SERVINGS

A D D C R U N C H W I T H G OAT CH E E S E B RU S CH E T TA Preheat a broiler. Arrange 8 wide slices country bread, about

4 inch (2 cm) thick, on a baking sheet. Broil, turning once, until golden on both sides, 12 minutes total. Remove from the

broiler and top the slices with 34 lb (375 g) fresh goat cheese, at room temperature, spreading a thick layer on each slice.

415 Jackson Street, Suite 200, San Francisco, CA 94111 Telephone: 415 291 0100 Fax: 415 291 8841 www.weldonowen.com A DIVISION OF

WELDON OWEN, INC. CEO and President Terry Newell VP, Sales and Marketing Amy Kaneko Director of Finance Mark Perrigo VP and Publisher Hannah Rahill Executive Editor Kim Laidlaw Associate Editor Julia Nelson Editorial Assistant Becky Duffett Associate Creative Director Emma Boys Art Director Kara Church Junior Designer Anna Grace Production Director Chris Hemesath Production Manager Michelle Duggan Color Manager Teri Bell Photographer Kate Sears Food Stylist Robyn Valarik Prop Stylist Sara Slavin

THE NEW SLOW COOKER Conceived and produced by Weldon Owen, Inc. in collaboration with Williams-Sonoma, Inc. 3250 Van Ness Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94109 Copyright 2010 Weldon Owen, Inc. and Williams-Sonoma, Inc. All rights reserved, including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form. Color separations by Embassy Graphics in Canada Printed and bound by Toppan Leefung Printing Limited in China First printed in 2010 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication data is available. ISBN-13: 978-1-61628-020-8 ISBN-10: 1-61628-020-4 Additional photography: Ray Kachatorian, page 11; Petrina Tinslay, page 7; Tucker and Hossler, pages 7, 16

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Weldon Owen would like to thank the following people for their generous support in making this book: Leslie Evans, Lauren Grant, Elizabeth Parson, Sharon Silva, Victoria Wall, Jason Wheeler, and Tracy White.