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KLAiPeDA
June 2013 - May 2014 Including

NIDA & PALANGA

Inside

A fully updated, impartial scrutiny of everything Klaipda has to offer visitors for the next 12 months

Outside
N21 - 6Lt www.inyourpocket.com

Two indispensable guides to the quirky coastal resorts of Nida and Palanga

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All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy
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CONTENTS

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents
Basics
A dictionary of differences 5 6 7

History
Major events that shaped the region

Arriving & Getting around

The easy, scam-free guide

Culture & Events 13 Galleries, concert halls, photography and more Where to stay
Presidential suites to camp sites 15

Dining & Nightlife

Restaurants Service is slipping (see right) Cafs Where to find the best espresso 21 26
Trinyiai Park (see p.35), photo by Sco

Service
With an estimated 3,000 people leaving Lithuania every month and the highest suicide rate per capita in the world, one would imagine that people in positions of influence and authority in Lithuania would be doing everything possible to make the country a more pleasant and welcoming country for both its citizens and its visitors. With very few exceptions, this isnt whats happening at all. In the case of Klaipda, where neither the train nor the bus station fail to provide a single sign in English or any other foreign language and where subsequently the alienation process begins before people have even properly arrived, the quality of service has nosedived to levels of such incompetence and indifference that we feel we need to write something if only to get it off our chest. During the updating of this guidebook we had a door closed in our face by a dozy waitress in an expensive restaurant who then went on to literally throw menus on the table and vanish, sat waiting for service that never arrived on more than one occasion, ordered egg-fried rice and got plain rice, were served a plate of white bread that was not only stale but literally covered in mould (again in an expensive restaurant), and generally suffered the wrath and stupidity of people whose incomes depend on their overall friendliness and intelligence. All of this may appear to be nothing more than a moan, but we think different, betting theres a direct connection between the widespread insouciance currently enveloping the country and the fact that Lithuania is finding it difficult to recover from the recent economic crisis. Its no wonder so many people are leaving by any means possible. Klaipda In Your Pocket would like to apologise in advance on behalf of the appalling service currently rearing its ugly head not just along the coast but all over the country.

Nightlife 27 Drinking, dancing and a little bit of nakedness

Sightseeing
A small but eye-opening collection

31 36 42 49 50 52

Nida
Lithuanias luxury resort

Palanga
A little Baltic slap and tickle

Mail & Phones

Keeping in touch

Shopping
Everything from amber to iPads

Directory
Haircuts, health and tennis

Maps

Street register 54 City centre map 55 City map 56 Index 58 Country map 59 klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

June 2013 - May 2014

FOREWORD
The Baltic Sea coast of Lithuania, an area stretching almost exactly 100km and featuring th e three fascinatingly different settlements of Klaipda, Nida (see p.36) and Palanga (see p.44), offers visitors to the western perimeter of the country an extreme diversity of options. Home to a busy port and two waterside resorts that couldnt be more different than each other if they tried, the region has witnessed the kind of historical turbulence usually only encountered in historical novels and has since the re-establishment of Lithuanian independence just over two decades ago grown into a serious holiday destination that once discovered isnt easily forgotten. Klaipda In Your Pocket continues to dazzle its readers with yet another annual instalment of useful, even-handed information aimed at anyone in the region who can read a bit of English who needs showing the ropes. Surplus to an inclusive guide to Lithuanias third city, find crammed within these 60 pages everything necessary to successfully navigate the decidedly Germanic and laid-back resort of Nida to its south and the contrastingly frenetic seaside party town of Palanga, the latter spending 2013 in the role of Lithuanian Capital of Culture. Still cheap as buttons to visit and at times alarmingly hopeless in the hospitality department, prepare to be captivated by one of the most unusual and unpredictable holiday destinations east of Berlin. Lullabies, pats on the back and proverbial beer glasses in the face as always to klaipeda@inyourpocket.com.
Publisher Vilnius In Your Pocket Bernardin 9 - 4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76, fax (+370) 5 212 29 82 klaipeda@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1822-1793 UAB VIYP Printed by UAB Spaudos kontrai Published once a year Print run up to 30,000 Editorial Editor Sco Layout & Design Vaida Gudynait Researcher Vaida Kurseviit Cover Photo Jonas Kontautas Sales & Circulation Publisher Vilnius In Your Pocket General Manager Rta Klimaviit Accounting V ACORDO Sales Manager Rta Klimaviit
This guidebook and all of our other Lithuanian guides are available for sale from kiosks, tourist information centres, the Vilnius In Your Pocket office and other outlets throughout Klaipda and Lithuania as well as online at www. inyourpocket.com. Complimentary copies of Klaipda In Your Pocket are also available in many hotels.

Cover story
Yachts moored at the Yacht Port right in the very centre of the city. The area around the Yacht Port has several hotels, restaurants and the historical Castle Museum. Read all about it and other museums on p.31.

Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright UAB VIYP 1992-2014; some photos, LATGA-A; maps, cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardin 9-4,Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).

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BASICS
Crime & Safety
Crime is rampant in Lithuania, most of it taking place inside the clandestine worlds of business and politics and consequently having little if no effect on visitors to the country. Crimes closer to home include such petty annoyances as having bits of your car stolen to the inevitable disappearing purses and mobile phones. Dont leave valuables in unattended pockets or lying around on tables. The chances of getting robbed in the street remain tiny. However, caution never did anybody any harm, and youre advised not to flaunt your wallet in stupid places or announce to the entire world your huge wealth by wearing loud jewellery in quiet back streets. A list of emergency numbers can be found on p.49.

Blue Flag beaches

A total of three Baltic Sea beaches along the Lithuanian coast currently have Blue Flag status, namely those at Nida (see p.36), the small setllement of Juodkrant midway between Klaipda and Nida and the section of beach close to Palangas Birut Park (see p.48). the right place to stand any chance whatsoever of being understood, getting to grips with the local lingo is at best tough. Thankfully, most places where tourists congregate in the country are now fairly English-friendly, with the coastal area also inhabited by people who speak a fair amount of both German and Russian.

Customs
Those arriving from other EU countries have no import restrictions placed upon them, although theyll need to make it known if theyre arriving with more than 10,000 in cash in any currency/currencies. When arriving from non-EU countries youre entitled to bring in one litre of spirits or four litres of wine or sixteen litres of beer. If arriving by air you can bring 200 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco, a figure thats drastically reduced to 40 cigarettes, 20 cigarillos, 10 cigars or 50g of tobacco if arriving by any other means. You cant bring meat, milk or dairy products from outside the EU except under certain circumstances. You cant arrive with live birds other than pets for noncommercial purposes. Dogs require vaccinations and passports (or other proof of vaccination). You can take home as much art as you wish tax free unless its over 50 years old, in which case expect to pay 10-20 per cent duty. The antique shop listed on p.50 should be able to advise on exactly what paperwork you need. For more detailed information check www.cust.lt. For information on animalrelated arrivals, take a look at www.vet.lt.

Money & Costs

The unit of currency in Lithuanian is the litas (Lt), which comes in denominations of 10Lt, 20Lt, 50Lt, 100Lt, 200Lt and 500Lt notes, 1, 2 and 5 litas coins and a number of weightless and rather useless centai/cent coins. The litas is pegged to the euro at the rate of 3.45Lt to 1. Most places of note in Klaipda happily accept major credit cards, and ATMs joyfully spew out money to any foreigner with money in their account. If youre planning a trip to the countryside or any of the smaller destinations included in this guide however, make sure you take plenty of cash along to be on the safe side. Klaipda, Nida and Palanga are no longer the cheap destinations they used to be, although they still offer reasonably good value to most visitors from the West. A good night out for two including a meal in a posh restaurant followed by drinks in a bar and a club to finish off wont leave you with much change, if any change at all, from 100. Most prices have rocketed of late, although short-term accommodation is still extremely good value. Once outside the main tourist destinations, prices drop considerably, with rural holidays providing exceptionally good value for money.

Disabled travellers
Whilst things have improved for the disabled over the past few years, Lithuania is still a tough place to get around on anything other than two well functioning legs. Even places that claim to be wheelchair-friendly are often flanked by deep kerbs or stairs, or are located on cobbled streets. Outside the major cities youll be lucky to find any thought given to wheelchair accessibility at all. The Society for the Physically Disabled of Lithuania (Lietuvos Negalij Draugija) has a website at www.draugija.lt, which has been promising an English language version for at least three years now but that remains in Lithuanian only.

Toilets
Just utter the two magic words kur tualetas? (wheres the toilet) and away you go. Bars and hotels happily let you use their facilities, although some have started to enforce a small charge for non-patrons. With the exception of a few non-tourist bars, all toilets are clean and are stocked with plenty of paper and soap. Toilets are either marked with an obvious symbol or an upwards-pointing triangle or letter M for women and a downwards-pointing triangle of letter V for men. A ghastly relic from days gone by that refuses to go away even in many upmarket establishments is the provision of a bucket, kept next to the toilet and used for the collection of used paper. Like the Greeks, the Lithuanians are convinced toilet paper destroys plumbing. It doesnt.

Electricity
Lithuanian domestic electricity flows out the walls at 220V, AC 50Hz, and nearly all sockets are of the round two-pin European variety. Travellers from non-socket-friendly societies should bring an appropriate adaptor, as theyre almost impossible to find in Lithuania.

Visas
Lithuania is a member of the European Union and the Schengen zone. Visitors from EU countries as well as a list of 30 or so additional countries dont require a visa to stay for up to 90 days within a six month period. Those additional countries include Australia, Canada, Japan, New Zealand, Singapore, South Korea and the United States. A visa issued for any Schengen country is also valid in Lithuania. EU citizens can live and work in Lithuania for as long as they like but must get a residence permit after a specific period. For more precise information, check with your representative embassy or take a look at www.urm.lt

Language
One of the oldest languages still spoken today, albeit in a form standardised less than a century ago, Lithuania is supposedly similar in grammatical form as well as sharing many of the same words with, of all things, Sanskrit. With seven noun cases, four declension patterns, absolutely no similarity to anything youve ever heard before and an obligation to pronounce the stress on every word in

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June 2013 - May 2014

HISTORY
The ancestral home of the Curonians (Kuriai ) and other proto-Lithuanian tribes including the long-extinct Nadruvians and Skalvians, the area around Klaipda has been inhabited since at least the 7th century. Until 1923, the city was an integral part of the region of East Prussia known as Lithuania Minor (Lithuanian, Maoji Lietuva. German, Kleinlitauen) whose Lithuanian population, the Lietuvininkai, were predominantly Protestant and distinct from their eastern neighbours in many ways. Although Klaipda was known as Memel for most of its history, the word Klaipda is used below to mean both. 13th century 1252 The Bishop of Kuras (Courland) signs an agreement with the Livonian Order. The Teutonic Knights build Memelburg Castle at the mouth of the Dan. In 1254 Klaipda is granted Lbeck law, establishing it as a sea trading town on a par with other Hanseatic towns. The town is repeatedly attacked by Lithuanian and German forces, causing the Bishop to re-locate to Pilten (todays Piltene in Latvia) in 1298. 14th century In 1328 the Livonian Knights agree to transfer Klaipda and its surrounding area to the German Order of Prussia. 15th century In 1418 the city of Caloypeda (Latin for Klaipda) is first mentioned in written sources. In 1455 Klaipda is occupied by Samogitian (emaitian) forces for the first time. 16th century In 1525 during the Reformation in Prussia, the Lithuanian Protestant Church is established. In 1540 a large fire destroys large parts of the city. 17th century Swedish forces control the city from 1629 until 1635. By 1657 the merchants of Klaipda are granted the privilege to develop their sea trade independently of the Prussian government, enabling the city and its port to expand. 18th century Russia occupies the Klaipda region from 1757 until 1762. During the second half of the century the city grows rapidly and the port hosts nearly 1,000 ships annually. 19th century In 1808 Klaipda becomes the temporary capital of the Kingdom of Prussia whilst Napoleon occupies Berlin. By 1812 Russian forces occupy the area again. In 1854 another fire consumes the city, causing massive damage. Klaipda is subsequently rebuilt using stone. In 1860 the first gymnasium is founded. By 1871 the newly founded German Empire controls the city and continues to do so until the end of WWI. The Nemunas and the port are connected in 1873 via the King Wilhelm Canal. 20th century At the end of WWI the Treaty of Versailles severs Klaipda from German rule and places it as a protectorate of the Entente states. In 1923 the Klaipda Revolt (actually an invasion) forces the city into Lithuanian hands although the region retains much autonomy from the rest of Lithuania. On March 22, 1939 the Nazis take control of the city and stay until its liberation by the Red Army on January 28, 1945. Nearly twothirds of the city is destroyed during WWII. Many inhabitants flee or are deported. Klaipda, like the rest of Lithuania, comes under Soviet rule until 1990. After Independence, the University of Klaipda is founded. In 1997, in order to revitalise the city, the area is established as one of the few Free Economic Zones within the country. 21st century The Lithuanian litas is pegged to the euro in 2002. In 2004 Lithuania joins Nato and the European Union. In 2007 Lithuania becomes a member of the Schengen zone. In 2009 Klaipda co-hosts the prestigious Tall Ships Race. The country hosts the EuroBasket 2011 competition in cities nationwide between August 31 and September 18. Lithuania is defeated 67-65 by FYR Macedonia in the quarter finals in Kaunas on September 15. 2013 Lithuania takes over the Presidency of the Council of the European Union for a six month period between July 1 and December 31.

Stalag Luft VI
Lietuvinink 36, ilut, tel. (+370) 44 16 22 07. In turns a German POW camp for Allied air crews and then a camp for prisoners of the Soviet regime, the almost entirely forgotten site that was once Stalag Luft VI, the northernmost POW camp in the Third Reich, deserves both a visit and more recognition in general. Covering three hectares of land about 50km south of Klaipda in the tiny village of Macikai, Stalag Luft VI was opened in 1939 and at its peak housed over 1,000 servicemen from countries including Belgium, Canada, Great Britain, Poland and the United States. Abandoned at the start of 1945 during one of the infamous Long Marches, after the war the camp became a Soviet camp where entire families were kept until 1955. The subsequent levelling of the site and surrounding graves has made any serious research into its history difficult to say the least. Although a lot of people died here, there are no records of the exact numbers or, with very few exceptions, just exactly who these people were. The actual site of the camp is long gone, although immediately to the rear a wooded area where those who perished here still remains, which with the help of several concerned embassies and a few interested Lithuanians has been turned into a place of remembrance complete with marked graves and memorials (pictured). Theres also a small museum commemorating the camps dual roles during its 16year lifespan. Plans are currently underway to create a proper memorial to those who suffered and lost their lives in the camp, including the construction of a large wall of remembrance. Despite the lack of information, the former camp is still worth visiting by anyone with even a passing interest in the recent history of the region. The camp is located just off route 141 a couple of kilometres east of ilut. Look for the large Macik Koncentracijos Stovyklos Vieta signs and keep driving until you reach the end of the track. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 1/0.50Lt.

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ARRIVING & GETTING aROUND

Bus Station O-2, Butk Juzs 9, tel. (+370) 46 41 15 47. Q Ticket office open 03:30 - 19:30. J

By car
Klaipda is at the end of the 311km highway from Vilnius and is also connected to Riga via the A13 (E272) that hugs the coast before crossing the border and becoming the A11. A massive new intersection just east of the city is currently under construction, which will eventually make life easier for traffic. At the moment though, the mess of unfinished flyovers and confusing road signs only make matters worse. Brave souls wishing to take a vehicle into the city should know in advance that Klaipdas a sprawling mass of bumpy roads possess ing little in the way of useful signposts. Dont leave valuables unattended, and if you can, use guarded parking whenever possible.

By ferry
Ferries arrive in Klaipda from Kiel and Sassnitz in Germany as well as Karlshamn in Sweden. Services at the ferry terminal are few and far between. If you want to change money, find a Medicinos Bankas kiosk (Open 08:00 - 19:30, Fri, Sat, Sun 24hrs) in the main terminal building. Getting to town The International Ferry Terminal is about 12km south of the city centre. Bus N1a leaves from outside the main terminal building a few times a day. Buy a ticket from the driver for 2.40Lt and validate it in the appropriate machine. Journey time to the centre is about 25 minutes. All buses terminate at the last stop on Taikos before Old Town. Taxis are usually waiting around outside. A journey to Old Town costs anything from 35-60Lt.

Ferry to the Curonian Spit With just about every conceivable means of transport on hand to deliver you to Klaipda, getting to the city is as easy as falling off the proverbial log. Once youve made it, moving about is equally simple, especially with the aid of this guide.

Public transport
Klaipdas relatively small centre makes walking from place to place a good option, with large city-owned buses and private minibuses providing help when you need to get from one side of the city to the other. Buses Tickets on city-owned buses currently cost 2Lt from kiosks or 2.40Lt if bought directly from the driver. All city-owned buses require everybody to board through the front door only. A solitary machine for validating tickets can be found next to, or somewhere very near to, the driver. Probably the most useful bus for visitors is the N8 which runs from the bus and train stations down through the middle of the city and south to the suburbs via the massive Akropolis shopping centre. The bus popularity makes it a prime target for pickpockets who make a good living from lackadaisical travellers. Dont leave small valuable items in pockets or open bags. A new fleet of grey, green and orange city-owned buses has recently been introduced, which unlike any other public transport in the country has manually operated doors for getting off. Push the small buttons on the hand rails to open the doors. The flash-looking electronic screens at many bus stops are as good as useless, operating under a system that defies any logic whatsoever. Minibuses Klaipdas superb minibus (marrutinis taksi ) fleet runs around the clock. Flag one down anywhere in the street and tell the driver when you want him to stop. Tickets cost 2.50Lt between 06:00 and 23:00, and 3Lt at all other times.

Arriving in Klaipda
With an airport just up the road, a ferry and cruise liner port in the city centre, bus connections, a train station and an internationally recognised cycle route running through it, if youre having trouble arriving in Klaipda you may like to have somebody feel your pulse and possibly call a priest.

By bus
Long-distance buses arrive in Klaipda from Kalinin grad, Riga and most major Lithuanian towns and cities. The newish bus station, if not exactly cutting edge, is at least an improvement on the concrete monstrosity that once stood in its place. The combined ticket hall and waiting room also features toilets (1Lt) and a couple of machines selling drinks and snacks. A left luggage office (bagain) for travellers who only plan on spending the day in town can be found at the front of the building which also contains a decent IKI supermarket, a handful of small shops and a caf selling good value buffet food ready in an instant. ATMs can be found outside. Getting to town Taxis can be found lurking around the station perimeter. A ride to Old Town should cost around 10Lt from an honest driver, possibly even less. Buses to the city centre leave from outside the front of the building. For more information on which number buses to take, see Arriving by train. The bus station is a good 20-minute walk from Old Town.

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ARRIVING & GETTING AROUND

By plane
Klaipda is served by Palanga Airport, which is about 25km north of the city on the main A13 (E272) highway. All year round the airport handles flights to and from Copenhagen, Oslo and Riga, with the addition of flights to and from Moscow during the summer. Small even by Lithuanian standards, the airport is easy to use. A currency exchange office takes care of changing money, plus theres a caf, ticket office, Avis, Hertz and Europcar car rental kiosks and a currency exchange office. Getting to town Buses for Klaipda leave from the small stand outside the main entrance, and all of them go via Palanga. The journey time is about 50 minutes. Tickets cost 8Lt and can be bought from the driver. The bus terminates at the main bus station. See Arriving by bus for more information. Taxis are usually parked outside the terminal building whenever flights arrive. The journey to Klaipda costs anything from 100Lt upwards.

Taxis
Taxis in Lithuania are considerably cheaper if called in advance rather than grabbed in the street, although youre essentially at the mercy of the driver once youve shut the door. Stories often filter through on the subject of the countrys disreputable taxi drivers, who tend to congregate in Vilnius. Experiences with taxi drivers in Klaipda have been by and large positive. Make sure the meters running before you set off. Company Tel. (+370) 46 31 12 11 (+370) 46 34 33 33 (+370) 46 34 53 45 Rate/km* 1.50Lt 1.59Lt 1.50Lt

Autopunktas Taksoma Vyjuvis

* Prices listed are for standard daytime/evening journeys

By train
A handful of trains arrive in Klaipda each day from iauliai and Vilnius. Facilities at the train station include toilets outside near the platforms, large luggage lockers (4Lt/day), a drinks machine and not a lot else. Getting to town Taxis can be found outside the front of the station. A ride to Old Town should cost around 10Lt from an honest driver. Minibus N8 leaves from a small stand just to the right of the exit and goes south through the city centre. Pay the driver 2.50Lt and shout when you want him to stop. The larger city bus N8 leaves from the bus stop to the right of the minibus stop and follows the same route. Buy a ticket from the driver for 2.40Lt. The train station is a good 20 minutes away on foot from Old Town.

Trains
Train Station (Geleinkelio Stotis) O-1, Priestoio 1,
tel. (+370) 700 551 11, www.litrail.lt. Catching a train in Klaipda is about as interesting as watching grass grow. Once youve bought your ticket all thats left to do is to sit and wait. The ticket office on the far left accepts credit cards, which is about as sophisticated as the train station gets. Ignore the drinks machine and visit the shop next door or the bar underneath it. Q Ticket office open 06:10 - 19:00. JA

Airport
Palanga Airport Liepojos 1, tel. (+370) 460 520 20,
ops@palanga-airport.lt, www.palanga-airport.lt. For more information about Palanga Airport, see left or turn to p.42. AULKW

Long-distance buses
Lux Express Sod 20b-1, Vilnius, tel. (+370) 5 233 66 66, w w w.luxexpress.eu. The first budget long-distance bus operator in the Baltics operates several routes between a number of destinations including Kaunas, Vilnius, Riga, Tallinn, Warsaw and St. Petersburg. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. JA

Car rental
Most major international car rental companies can be found in Klaipda. All types of vehicle are represented, with many companies also offering chauffeur services. Most major driving international licences are accepted.

Avis N-6, vej 19, tel. (+370) 46 31 11 11, klaipeda@avis. lt, www.avis.lt. Almost exclusively high quality cars under six months old, available with or without a driver. Contact them for more. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. J Budget K-7, iluts 32 (Volvo&Renault building), tel.

Klaipda port

(+370) 5 230 67 08 (24 hrs), budget@budget.lt, www. budget.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Europcar M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1 (Amberton Klaipda Hotel), tel. (+370) 687 110 16 (24 hrs), klaipeda@ europcar.lt, www.europcar.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA Eurorenta G-5, Sukilli 2, tel. (+370) 46 38 21 21, rent@eurorenta.lt, www.eurorenta.lt. QOpen 09:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA Hertz L-4, S. Daukanto 4, tel. (+370) 698 700 49, klaipeda@hertz.lt, www.hertz.lt. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA

Klaipda In Your Pocket

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ARRIVING & GETTING AROUND

Sixt Tel. (+370) 5 239 56 36, www.sixt.lt. QOpen

09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

Local bus schedule

Kaunas 05:15, 06:10, 06:45, 07:05, 08:30, 11:10, 11:50, 13:50, 14:15, 17:00, 17:55, 18:20, 19:251. Nida/Juodkrant 10:552, 11:15. Palanga 09:15, 11:00, 12:25, 12:55, 13:00, 14:00, 15:05, 15:30, 17:10, 17:30, 17:50, 18:30, 18:55, 20:35, 21:101 22:35. Palanga Airport 12:25, 12:55, 15:20. iauliai 06:553, 08:003, 11:00, 13:00, 15:00, 16:002, 17:10. Vilnius 04:104, 05:40, 06:10, 08:00, 10:00, 10:45, 12:103, 13:05, 13:50, 15:153, 16:30, 17:102, 17:45, 19:25.
1 4

Seaside cycling
Several groups and organisations have worked together over the past few years to promote cycling in the Klaipda region. As well as a series of cycle lanes in the city itself, a handful of larger routes have been developed under the collective name Seaside Cycle Route, including one that runs through part of the fabulous Nemunas Delta Regional Park on the eastern side of the Curonian Lagoon. Two other routes worthy of further investigation and both of them for cycling only are the 25km trail hugging the coast north to Palanga and the 55km cycle track that runs all the way down the Lithuanian side of the Curonian Spit to Nida via Juodkrant. For more information, see the superb www.bicycle.lt.

Naujoji Uosto 3, tel. (+370) 615 917 73, rent@bicycle.lt, www. velorenta.lt. An impressive range of bicycles for all the family available for rent from the countrys leading cycling organisation. Also advice, service, maps, tours to the Curonian Spit from June to September and just about everything else connected with cycling. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00 (May - September). Other time by appointment only. J

DU RATAI (BaltiCCycle) L-6,

Fri, Sun, 2 -Fri, Sat, Sun, 3 September 1 - June 1 Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat

Valid until January 1, 2014. Not all services listed. Correct at the time of going to press and subject to change during the lifetime of this guide. The website at www.autobusubilietai.lt is the best resource for up-to-date, accurate information about travelling by bus in Lithuania.

Emergency numbers Police Fire Ambulance Tel. 112

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10

ARRIVING & GETTING AROUND

Travel agencies
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. JA Baltic Travel Service M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1, tel. (+370) 46 31 06 00, klaipeda@bts.lt, www.bts.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. JA Klaipdos Mja L-4, S. imkaus 21-8, tel. (+370) 46 31 02 95, info@meja.lt, www.meja.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J Krantas Travel N-7, Teatro 5, tel. (+370) 46 39 51 11, www.krantas.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA The Beautiful Land Of Nevermind Uupio 23-9, Vilnius, tel. (+370) 616 200 07, info@nevermind.lt, www. nevermind.lt. A range of friendly, professional services for independent travellers. Everything from car rental to accommodation to tailor-made tours throughout the Baltics. See their website for more information. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.JA West Express M-3, S. Daukanto 20, tel. (+370) 46 31 03 11, klaipeda@westexpress.lt, www.westexpress.lt. Also at Taikos 61 (Akropolis). QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA Zigzag L-2, J. Janonio 16-1, tel. (+370) 46 31 46 72, klaipeda@zigzag.lt, www.zigzag.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA

International ferries
00/(+370) 46 32 32 32, booking.lt@dfds.com, www. dfdsseaways.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J International Ferry Terminal B-8, Perklos 10, tel. (+370) 46 39 50 51, www.dfdsseaways.com. The International Ferry Terminal is situated about 18km south of the city centre. Small and easy to use, dont expect too much in the way of services. Bus N1a leaves from the stop immediately south of the Old Market on Taikos. A ticket from the driver, which must be validated in the appropriate machine, currently costs 2.40Lt, and the journey takes about 25 minutes. Depending on which company you use, a taxi from Old Town will cost any thing from 35-60Lt. Stena Line M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1 (Amberton Klaipda Hotel), tel./fax (+370) 46 31 05 61, info.lt@stenaline.com, www.stenaline.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J

Baltic Clipper N-7, Turgaus 2, tel. (+370) 46 31 23 12, office@bc.lt, www.bc.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat

DFDS Seaways M-3, auli 19, tel. (+370) 46 39 50

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International ferry schedule

From Klaipda Ferry Optima Seaways, Liverpool Seaways Victoria Seaways, Regina Seaways Dep. 20:00 Days 1-7 1 2 3 4 5 7 2, 6 4 Arr. 09:00 12:00 14:00 16:00 18:00 19:00 22:00 14:00 12:00 Days 1-7 2 3 4 5 6 7 3, 7 5 Destination KARLSHAMN KIEL KIEL KIEL KIEL KIEL KIEL SASSNITZ SASSNITZ To Klaipda Dep. 18:00 14:00 16:00 18:00 20:00 22:00 23:00 21:00 19:00 Days Arr. 1-7 1 2 3 4 5 6 1, 5 3 09:00 12:30 14:00 16:30 18:00 20:00 22:30 16:00 14:00 Days 1-7 2 3 4 5 6 7 2, 6 4

15:00 17:30 19:00 21:00 23:00 01:00 Kaunas Seaways 21:00 19:00 Valid from 03 01 2013 till futher notice

From Ventspils (Latvia) To Ventspils (Latvia) Ferry Dep. Days Arr. Days Destination Dep. Days Arr. Days Scottish Viking 00:01 2 10:00 2 NYNSHAMN 10:00 1 21:00 1 10:00 3 19:00 3 NYNSHAMN 19:00 2 07:00 3 20:00 4 08:00 5 NYNSHAMN 22:00 3 10:00 4 18:00 6 06:05 7 NYNSHAMN 22:00 5 10:00 6 23:00 7 09:00 1 NYNSHAMN 08:00 7 19:00 7 Stena Flavia 04:00 2, 5 07:30 3, 6 TRAVEMNDE 18:00 3, 6 20:00 4,7 From Liepaja (Latvia) To Liepaja (Latvia) Ferry Dep. Days Arr. Days Destination Dep. Days Arr. Days Urd 04:00 3 07:30 4 TRAVEMNDE 18:00 1 22:30 2 Ask 04:00 4 07:30 5 TRAVEMNDE 18:00 2 22:30 3 Urd 18:00 6 20:00 7 TRAVEMNDE 20:00 4 23:30 5 Ask 04:00 7 07:30 1 TRAVEMNDE 20:00 5 23:30 6 Note: Lines operator reserves the right to change the schedule. Local times are used for all departures and arrivals. For more info and out of season schedules visit www.dfdsseaways.lt, www.stenaline.lt.

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Take your car on holiday !

, jojo Sodo 1 u a N , e in L UAB Stena rton) otel Ambe Klaipda (H

line.lt www.stena 46 310561 Tel.: +370

12

ARRIVING & GETTING AROUND

or thereabouts. Youre unlikely to have to wait more than 30 minutes for a ferry during the summer, but may have to wait a little longer at other times. Everything is explained in Lithuanian and English. Foot passengers who need a bus connection at the other side of the harbour should use the First Ferry Terminal. Q Buses 65 - 160Lt, cars 40Lt, motorcycles 18Lt, foot passengers/cyclists 2.90Lt. A

Train schedule
From Klaipda Dep. Arr. 06:50 08:51 08:18 11:15 11:53 13:50 15:10 17:54 17:05 19:06 06:50 11:36 11:53 16:38 17:05 21:55 City IAULIAI IAULIAI IAULIAI IAULIAI IAULIAI VILNIUS VILNIUS VILNIUS To Klaipda Dep. Arr. 06:35 09:25 09:23 11:25 12:27 14:46 15:44 18:33 20:18 22:20 06:45 11:25 09:45 14:46 17:40 22:20

Train Station, photo by Sco

Local ferries
Until such a time as a bridge or tunnel appears, the only way to get on and off the Lithuanian part of the Curonian Spit is by ferry, of which there are two routes to choose from.

Correct at the time of going to press and subject to change during the lifetime of this guide. More information at www.litrail.lt

Street smarts
Eagle-eyed individuals whove spent prolonged amounts of time in Lithuania during the last couple of decades will have almost certainly noticed a not inconsiderable amount of name changing of the countrys streets and public spaces, most notably a move away from any references to Communism in favour of patriotic and/or religious themes. It comes as something of a surprise then to discover that tucked away in the southeastern part of Klaipda is a kilometre or so of asphalt going by the name of Paryiaus Komunos Gatv (Paris Commune Street, pictured). Attempts to discover how this anomaly slipped under the radar have been fruitless if interesting. The other thing road-users visiting Lithuania will have noticed is the rather obvious fact that the Lithuanians have different words for things like street and bridge. Below is a list of the more common instances, of which some we shorten as indeed do the locals. For example, Taikos Prospektas is simply referred to as Taikos. Aikt Square Alja Alley Gatv (or g.) Street Kelias Road (or Way) Plentas Highway Prospektas (or pr.) Avenue Skg (skersgatvis) Alley (or Lane) Tiltas Bridge

Fir st Ferr y Terminal (Old Crossing/Senoji Smiltyns Perkla) F-4, Dans 1, tel. (+370) 46 31

Second Ferry Terminal (New Crossing/Naujoji Smiltyns Perkla) G-8, Nemuno 8, tel. (+370) 46
31 11 17, www.keltas.lt. Ferries shuffle vehicles and foot passengers across the lagoon between 05:40 and 01:10

11 17, www.keltas.lt. The smaller of the two ferry routes operating between the city and the Curonian Spit is for foot passengers and cyclists only. The ferry operates from the northern side of the Dan where it meets the Curonian Lagoon. Ticket price includes the return journey. Q Foot passengers/cyclists 2.90Lt. JA

International bus schedule

Dep Arr Destination Dep Arr BERLIN 20:302 17:30 11:501 06:40 COLOGNE 10:152 17:30 11:501 16:45 LONDON 21:303 17:30 11:501 05:45 POZNA 00:304 17:30 11:503 02:30 RIGA 09:305 14:00 03:405 08:10 RIGA 12:155 16:45 06:005 10:30 RIGA 17:305 22:00 11:305 16:00 RIGA 20:005 00:30 14:305 19:00 RIGA 23:155 03:50 16:305 21:00 ROME 15:007 12:15 17:556 11:50 STUTTGART 08:009 17:30 11:508 19:30 6 10 18:30 VIENNA 08:30 12:15 17:55 WARSAW 04:305 17:30 11:505 22:30 Days of the week (1=Monday) 1 1 2 - 4 - 6 -, 2 1 - 3 4 - 6 -, 3 - 2 3 - 5 - 7, 4 - 2 - 4 5 - 7, 5 1 2 3 4 5 6 7, 6 - - - 4 - 6* -, 7 - 2* - - - - 7, 8 - - 3 - 5 - 7, 9 2 - - 5 - 7, 10 1 - 3* - - - - *additional 01.07 - 3.08.2013 Correct at the time of going to press and subject to change during the lifetime of this guide. Not all services listed. More information at www.eurolines.lt and www. ollex.lt Valid until December 31, 2013.

Klaipda In Your Pocket

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CULTURE & EVENTS

Events
Until October 1 Palanga Fotografijoje - Fotografija Palangoje Translating as Photography in Palanga - Palanga in Photography, this summer-long series of exhibitions and the occasional seminar inside Palangas Ramybs Galerija (www. ramybesgalerija.lt) looks at Palanga through the eyes of a wide range of Lithuanian photographers. June 13 - September 7 Dd Vasara A series of outdoor brass concerts taking place on a classic bandstand in Palangas Birut Park (see p.48) every Thursday, Friday and Saturday evening at 18:30. Musical styles range from the traditional to the contemporary. See www. palanga2013.lt for more information. June 22 - September 7 Klasikos Balsai A diverse season of classical and serious music concerts inside Palangas Amber Museum (see p.46). Schedules online at www.palanga2013.lt. June 27 - 30 Lithuanian World Sports Games Organised by the Union of Lithuanian Sports Federation and timed to coincide with the 80th anniversary of Darius and Girnas ill-fated flight across the Atlantic among other sportrelated patriotic anniversaries, this intriguing event should be of interest to participants and spectators alike. Involving such diverse sports as athletics, badminton, basketball, billiards, bowling, chess, darts, fishing, golf, seven-aside football, swimming, skateboarding and events for the disabled, find out more online at www.lsfs.lt July - August Muzikuojantis Keltas An interesting and decidedly different take on the traditional music festival, Muzikuojantis Keltas (Musical Ferry) aims to set sail every Saturday evening between July and August on board the local ferry Nida from the First Ferry Terminal (see p.12), cruising the Curonian Lagoon to the beats and rhythms of a wide range of live musical acts. At the time of going to press, Nida was out of service, although were assured its going to be repaired in time for this years events. The festival website at www.muzikuojantiskeltas.lt has basic information in English. June 22 - August 3 Klaipda Concert Hall Outdoor Summer Concerts A diverse series of concerts throughout the summer taking place in a pleasant outdoor setting at the back of the Klaipda Concert Hall (see p.14). Full repertoire in English at www.koncertusale.lt. July 6 Night of Culture by the Baltic Sea A celebration to mark the annual Crowning of King Mindaugas Day and featuring a performance of Mikas Petrauskas (1873-1937) 1906 opera Birut in Palangas aptly named Birut Park (see p.48) as well as a few other cultural events taking place around the town. Full information online in English at www.palanga2013.lt. July 7 - 12 iurlionis Music Festival A week of piano concerts featuring musicians from Lithuania and abroad performing music by the Lithuanian composer Mikalojus Konstantinas iurlionis (1875-1911) and others A series of intriguing and unusual concerts every Saturday and Sunday at 12:00 played on a large carillon installed in the citys Central Post Office in 2006, although the venue to listening is next door in the garden of the citys Timepiece Museum (see p.31). inside Palangas Tikeviiai Palace, home among other things to the towns Amber Museum (see p.46). More online at www.palanga2013.lt. July 10 - 13 1,000km Race 2013 Three days of rally driving events in Klaipda, Palanga and nearby Kretinga. The website at www.racing.lt has good information in English. July 13 - 20 In Search of Homeland Aka the 17th International Thomas Mann Festival, which this year sees events taking place at Nidas (see p.36) Evangelical-Lutheran Church (see p.41) and Thomas Mann Memorial Museum (see p.40). Events are manifold and often have little to do with the author, and range from music to spoken word to cinema. The website at www.mann.lt has good information in English. July 25 - August 25 Muzikinis Rugpjtis Pajryje Translating more or less as A Musical August by the Sea, the 16th annual Muzikinis Rugpjtis Pajryje takes place in a number of venues in the region and celebrates both opera and symphonic music from home and abroad. Popping up in Klaipda as well as Palanga (see p.44), Nida (see p.36), Juodkrant, Kretinga and Giruliai, find more information online in English at www.muzikinis-teatras.lt. July 26 - 28 Klaipda Sea Festival Featuring everything from parades to classical concerts to the occasional rock opera to spectacular firework displays, this years Klaipda Sea Festival promises to be bigger and better than ever. The festival website at www.jurossvente.lt currently features a single line of gibberish in English. If youd like to attend, book a hotel now or take a tent. There wont be a spare bed in the city. July 26 - 28 Wonderland Klaipdas International Street Circus Festival takes place over one July weekend in and around the citys vyturio Men Dokas. No information at the time of going to press. See www.dokas.info at a later date (in Lithuanian only).

13

Klaipda Carillon Concerts

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June 2013 - May 2014

14

CULTURE & EVENTS

July 26 - August 15 Kuri Nerija 2013 The 15th International Chamber Music Summer Festival takes place again this July and August in the fabulous Curonian Spit resorts of Juodkrant and Nida (see p.36). Featuring the Lithuanian National Philharmonic and other classical ensembles, the festival promises another exciting series of classical performances. Find the full schedule (in Lithuanian only) online at www.neringa.lt. August 8 -11 Satta Outside Those charming and usually stoned Vilnius ragamuffins at Satta take over large parts of the resort of ventoji again this year for a three-day celebration of underground dance music, not washing much and getting totally monged. Badly organised of course, the festival promises several stages of musical performance, mostly provided by teenage boys wearing headphones. Joking aside, this is genuinely one of the top events of the year of its kind in the region. See www.sattaoutside.lt for more. August 24 Psk, Vjui! Now in its sixth year, the tiny village of Juodkrant on the Curonian Spit once again hosts a day-long celebration of folkthemed events from dancing to singing to traditional fishing. More information (in Lithuanian only) online at www.lrezoskc.lt.

vyturio Men Dokas (Lighthouse Arts Dock) M-6, Naujoji Uosto 3, tel. (+370) 685 600 50, www.dokas. info. A large space close to the docks in a development thats so-far failed to develop much. Expect everything from concerts of all descriptions to exhibitions, dance evenings, cinema, theatre and special events for children. J

Galleries
Baroti Galerija O-7, Auktoji 1, tel. (+370) 46 31 35 80, www.barotigalerija.lt. One of the best contemporary galleries in the city, showcasing work in several media from a wide selection of Lithuanian and international artists. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JA KKKC Parod Rmai N-7, Didioji Vandens 2, tel. (+370) 46 31 44 43, www.kulturpolis.lt. The largest exhibition space in the western half of the country organises exhibitions of all types from folk to experimental art, and features the work of artists from Lithuania and abroad. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. J Parko Galerija N-7, Turgaus 9, tel. (+370) 652 111 12. An interesting little gallery showcasing locals contemporary art of varying styles in just about all media. QOpen 11:00 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J Pda N-7, Turgaus 10, tel. (+370) 46 31 02 34, www. karciauskas.com. A substantial gallery on two floors featuring the work of the intriguing local artist Vytautas Kariauskas (b. 1954). All of the pieces on display are for sale. Look for the large dragon on the wall opposite. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA

Cinemas
Most films are shown in their original language with Lithuanian subtitles.

Forum Cinemas Akropolis I-7, Taikos 61 (Akropolis), tel. 1567, www.forumcinemas.lt. Mostly Holly wood blockbusters. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A

Photography
For an overview of the history of photography in Lithuania plus information on contemporary photographers and exhibitions, take a look at the excellent www.photography.lt.

Concert halls
M-3, auli 36, tel. (+370) 46 41 05 66, www.koncertusale.lt. The best place in town for serious music concerts, the innovative people who run this place also nurture young musical talent, organise festivals and are also responsible for the carillon at the top of the tower in the citys main post office. The large garden at the back has been turned into an outdoor theatre for summer concerts of every persuasion. Q Box office open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J vyturys Arena I-8, Dubysos 10, tel. (+370) 640 238 58, www.svyturioarena.lt. Built with EuroBasket 2011 in mind, this relative new building provides more than just a place to play and watch sport. As well as being able to handle several different sports, Klaipdos Arena also doubles as a concert venue and exhibition and conference space. Q Box office open 12:00 - 19:00. Also 2 hrs before the performance. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun.

Klaipda Concert Hall (Klaipdos Koncert Sal)

Klaipda Photography Gallery (Klaipdos Fotografijos Galerija) N-7, Tomo 7, tel. (+370) 615 494 70,

www.photoartklaipeda.lt. This fine gallery was recently put in the hands of a small team of young and energetic locals hoping to breathe some new life into whats been up until recently a rather dreary exhibition space. Check the website for upcoming exhibitions. The gallery now also has a rather good bar with outside seating in the park opposite during the summer. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

Theatres
Klaipda Drama Theatre (Klaipdos Dramos Teatras) M-7, Taikos 70 (vej Rmai), tel. (+370)
46 31 44 53, www.kldteatras.lt. The main theatre in the city, putting on a wide range of plays alas in the Lithuanian language only. Q Box office open 10:00 -18:00. Sun 2 hrs before the performance. Closed Mon. J

Cultural centres
N-8/O-7, Dar 10, tel. (+370) 46 41 01 08, www.etnocentras.lt. The spiritual home of the citys many folk and folklore societies. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J Simon Dach House (Simono Dacho Namai) L-5, Jros 7, tel. (+370) 46 31 14 81, www.sdh.lt. Representing the citys old and new German-speaking communities, this busy centre organises everything from German language courses to the annual Day of German Culture. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

Ethno-Cultural Centre (Etnokultros Centras)

O-7, Vej 4, tel. (+370) 46 23 99 32, www.klaipedosleliuteatras.lt. Unusual for a puppet theatre behind the former Iron Curtain, this one was founded long after independence in 2000. Aimed at bringing traditional and modern puppetry to a predominantly young audience, the theatre offers productions as well as workshops and other activities throughout the year. Q Box office open Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 13:00 - 17:00. Also an hour before the performance. J klaipedosmuzikinis.lt. Everything from musical shows for children to the work of Wagner. Q Box office open 11:00 14:00, 15:30 - 18:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. JN

Klaipda Puppet Theatre (Klaipdos Lli Teatras)

Klaipda State Musical Theatre (Muzikinis Teatras) N-5/6, Dans 19, tel. (+370) 46 39 74 04, www.

Klaipda In Your Pocket

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WHERE TO STAY
As a moderately busy holiday and business destination, Klaipdas accommodation scene is healthy if not exactly thriving, with quality and choice ranging from humble campsites to sparkling business-class amenities complete with trouser presses and Jacuzzis. In scenes reminiscent of March 1939, the city is invaded every summer by scores of Germans, during which time finding a bed can be difficult. Add to that the Sea Festival, when every pillow in the city is taken, booking in advance is highly recommended.

15

Symbol key
P Air conditioning O Casino T Child-friendly F Fitness centre R LAN connection K Restaurant D Sauna I Fireplace A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking 6 Pet-friendly J Old town location C Swimming pool W Wireless Internet access

Upmarket
46 40 43 72, fax (+370) 46 40 43 73, hotel@amberton. lt, www.ambertonhotel.com. As close as Klaipda comes to boasting a city within a city, the gargantuan Amberton is located in a prime location should you ever run out of things to do whilst staying here. Featuring a range of rooms from dangerously posh and expensive apartments to good value rooms with all the trimmings, communal offerings include bars, restaurants, a casino and plenty of sports and relaxation facilities. Despite the sheer size of the place its popularity with bus loads of Germans during the summer season makes booking in advance highly recommended. Q257 rooms (49 - 350). POJHA6UFLKDXCW hhhh 40 08 80, fax (+370) 46 40 04 11, info@ararat.lt, www. ararat.lt. An excellent choice not too far from Old Town on the north side of the river, Ararat All Suites Hotel provides the classic aparthotel experience in a range of options from standards through to the jaw-dropping penthouse. Each room or series of rooms comes with its own kitchen plus a plethora of treats including televisions with plenty of channels and wireless internet. The in-house Armenian restaurant is one of the finest places to eat in the city. Q28 rooms (240 - 650Lt). PJHARLKDW hhhh

Amberton Klaipda M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1, tel. (+370)

VAT (21%) and breakfast included unless otherwise stated

Ararat All Suites Hotel P-4, Liep 48a, tel. (+370) 46

11 11, fax (+370) 46 41 61 72, info@nationalhotel.lt, www.nationalhotel.lt. Smack bang in the middle of the action and the prettiest part of the city, the National Hotel is definitely worth considering even if youre not on an expense account. One of the few four-star hotels in the country that lives up to its standard, the rooms are exactly what youd expect from this sort of establishment with extras in abundance including conference facilities, in-house bar serving excellent cuisine and even a round of golf on their own course just outside the city. With so many of Klaipdas top eating and drinking establishments little more than a brief walk away, this is the ideal place to stay for those who like to stay out late and potter home without the need of a taxi. Q50 rooms (87 - 199). PJHAR6UKXW hhhh

National Hotel M/N-6, vej 21/1, tel. (+370) 46 21

Euterp N/O-7, Dar 9/15, tel. (+370) 46 47 47

03, fax (+370) 46 47 47 05, hotel@euterpe.lt, www. euterpe.lt. A choice of quality singles, doubles and luxury rooms in a smart-looking complex of old and new buildings in the heart of Old Town, this business-class gem features all the little perks necessary for a comfortable stay including air-conditioning, internet connections and heated bathroom floors. Extras include conference facilities, massage, gym and a restaurant with a nice courtyard during the summer. Q23 rooms (250 - 540Lt). PJHARULKW hhhh

Navalis M-3, H. Manto 23, tel. (+370) 46 40 42 00, fax (+370) 46 40 42 02, info@navalis.lt, www.navalis. lt. A nicely restored 19th-century building in the heart of the city, the gorgeous rooms with every conceivable necessity come in a range of categories from standard to business to luxury class. Friendly and suitable for everyone from tourists to business travellers, extras include swimming pool, great conference facilities, a recommended in-house restaurant and rather fine little caf. Q 28 rooms (260 - 730Lt). PJHAFLKDXCW hhhh
(+370) 46 49 08 00, fax (+370) 46 49 08 15, info. klaipeda@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/ hotel-klaipeda. The city centre-located Radisson is a dream. Decorated throughout with a distinctive nautical theme, small and comfortingly personal, its a real haven of friendliness in a city of many unpredictable hotels. The rooms come in several types and classes, all of them complete with the classic Radisson touches including free wireless internet, well-stocked minibars and complimentary newspapers. Located on a quiet street next to the Klaipda Concert Hall, theres a smashing restaurant that also serves one of the best breakfasts in Lithuania. Theres also a sauna, conference facilities and much more besides. Q74 rooms (99 - 310). PJHARUFLKDXW hhhh (+370) 46 31 22 62, info@vecekrug.lt, www.vecekrug.lt. A small business class hotel with a family feel, rooms come with all thats needed for a pleasant stay. Close to the centre on the road that runs parallel with the docks which affords a nice view from some of the hotels windows, other incentives for staying here include a sauna and small rooftop terrace. Q23 rooms (200 - 400Lt). PJHAR6ULKDCW hhhh

Radisson Blu Hotel Klaipda M-3, auli 28, tel.

Vecekrug L-5, Jros 23, tel. (+370) 46 30 10 02, fax

Photo by Ieva Valutyt

klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

June 2013 - May 2014

16

WHERE TO STAY

Mid-range
(+370) 46 49 09 42, hotel@aribe.lt, w w w.aribe. lt. An established favourite, Arib is located on a quiet street not too far from the centre and has been packing in happy, budget-conscious travellers for years. The rooms are clean if a little tatty these days, all of them having en suite facilities and free internet connections. The average breakfast is a combination of buffet food and hot cooked meals and the staff have been known to open the kitchen and make meals for late arrivals. A real classic and one of the best value hotels in the city. Q21 rooms (120 - 260Lt). JHALXW hhh

Arib R-6, Bang 17a, tel. (+370) 46 49 09 40, fax

one of the best buffet breakfasts in its class, bicycle rental and a well stocked lobby bar that stays open around the clock. Popular with tour groups and independent travellers alike, this place ranks among one of the friendliest places to stay in the region and the addition of a wall-mounted iPad in the aforementioned bar, extremely useful for settling well-tempered differences of opinion after a few beers, is the icing on the cake. Recommended. Q50 rooms (50 - 76). TJHA6ULKXW hhh (+370) 46 40 19 05, admin@morenahotel.lt, www. morenahotel.lt. If youve got your own set of wheels or dont mind using a taxi or bus to get in and out of the city, Morena is more than a worthwhile option. A wee bit north of the centre in Melnrag and close to the sea, this three-floor surprise provides a good choice of singles, doubles and suites plus a small business centre, sauna and fancy caf to name but a few of the extras. Excellent value accommodation in a quiet location away from the noise and dir t of the city. Q 26 rooms (120 - 300Lt). PHARLKDW hhh

Morena Audros 8a, tel. (+370) 46 35 13 14, fax

Europa City Aurora G/H-8, Nemuno 51, tel. (+370) 46 29 70 00, fax (+370) 46 29 70 01, klaipeda@ europacity.lt, www.groupeuropa.com. The paint on the walls was barely dry as we went to press inside this newly opened three-star addition smack bang next to the Second Ferry Terminal. Belonging to the excellent Europa Hotel chain, the Europa City Aurora features a superb choice of rooms from good value facilities with four beds to mini apartments with their own small kitchens. Other enticements include wireless internet, restaurant, bicycle rental and even babysitting, plus theres guarded parking, conference rooms and the unusual option of having your bed extended to 2.3 metres if you so desire. Q144 rooms (42 - 127). HAR6ULKW hhh Lgn O-8, Galinio Pylimo 16, tel./fax (+370) 46 41 18 84, klaipeda@lugne.com, www.lugne.com. Close to the Old Market, this spectacular gem keeps all its eggs in one basket so to speak and offers a staggering array of rooms from the very cheap and basic to something altogether more sophisticated. The sort of place where youre likely to end up on first-name terms with the staff, the lack of truly outstanding features is more than made up for the colourful people who work here. Q33 rooms (apartments 100 - 250Lt). JHAR6LKXW hhh Magnisima L-2, Janonio 11, tel. (+370) 615 130 46, fax (+370) 46 31 09 01, info@magnisima.lt, www. magnisima.lt. A good choice in a fairly central location, find 17 rococoesque rooms complete with en suite facilities, satellite television and free wireless internet. A good price and an equally good place in which to base yourself. Q17 rooms (158 - 500Lt). PJHA6LK hhh Memel Hotel P-7, Bang 4, tel. (+370) 46 47 49 00, fax (+370) 46 47 49 55, info@memelhotel.lt, www. memelhotel.lt. A brilliantly thought out and executed hotel in an equally admirable location, find a choice of modern, en suite rooms on three floors, free wireless internet, Klaipda In Your Pocket

Out of town
Gamtos Perlas Placio 146, Karkl, tel. (+370) 687 307 00, fax (+370) 46 46 30 33, info@gamtosperlas. lt, www.gamtosperlas.lt. A fine example of why we love Lithuania, the recently completed Gamtos Perlas, some 13km north of Klaipda and just a couple of hundred metres from the Baltic Sea, is a real gem. A combined hotel, restaurant, natural history museum and safari park, the hotel itself is reason enough to think about visiting. Featuring 15 rooms divided into two types of Provenal-type doubles plus some suites, all with en suite facilities, free wireless internet and a host of other treats, the location may not be to everyones taste but for those with vehicles, a strong pair of legs or who just want to get away from it all, the place is hard to beat. Add to this a restaurant masterminded by the excellent Robertas esnaviius and serving such dishes as venison, ostrich and duck, a museum filled with stuffed elephants, lions, zebra, crocodiles, monkeys and the like and, to top it all, a small safari park populated with all manner of interesting beasts including a moose called Love, then we ask you what more you could possibly ask for. An outdoor hot tub perhaps? Well youre in luck because theyve got one of those too. If they opened something like this in every town and city around the country, Lithuania would almost certainly become one of Europes top holiday destinations. Magic. Q15 rooms (100 - 300Lt). Breakfast not included. THA6LKDW hhh klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

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WHERE TO STAY
15, fax (+370) 46 21 99 21, info@oldmillhotel.lt, www.oldmillhotel.lt. A marvellous-looking building in the developing area close to the Castle Museum combining visual elements of traditional local architecture and modernity. The Old Mill affords splendid views of th e harbour, wi th rooms coming in singles, doubles and twins and featuring cable television, minibars and air conditioning for those hot stick y seaside summer nights. Theres also conference facilities and a better than average restaurant. Q 31 rooms (190 - 280Lt). PJHA6ULW hhh 64, fax (+370) 46 47 47 65, info@oldporthotel.lt, www.oldporthotel.lt. A choice of standards and deluxe close to the upcoming area near the Castle Museum and the cruise ferry terminal, this rather nice and decidedly modern hotel offers every thing from air conditioning to internet to satellite television. Theres also a good restaurant, conference facilities and a list of other services and facilities for a comfortable and relaxing stay. Q 15 rooms (220 - 380Lt). PJHARULKW hhh

Old Mill Hotel L-7, vej 22, tel. (+370) 46 21 92

Palva E-6, Smiltyns 19, tel. (+370) 612 751 34, fax (+370) 46 39 11 55, info@hotelpalva.lt, www.dryzuotas. lt. Over the water in Smiltyn and close to the First Ferry Terminal, this interesting option is perfect for visitors who want to get the most of the citys nautical heritage and pootle into town on a boat three times a day. With a distinctly personal feel to the place, the rooms are a bit old fashioned, but the options of sauna, bicycle rental and a barbecue by the water make it very tempting indeed. The company who own the hotel also run boat tours and can also organise sea fishing trips. Q17 rooms (100 - 280Lt). HAULDCW hhh Park Inn By Radisson Klaipda G-6, Minijos 119, tel. (+370) 46 38 08 03, fax (+370) 46 48 20 30, info. klaipeda@rezidorparkinn.com, www.rezidorparkinn. com. Some 3km south of Old Town on the way towards the international ferry terminal, the Park Inn is all about economy whilst still managing to offer at least a half-way decent experience. The rooms are clean and modern if not exactly overflowing with facilities, with free wireless internet provided only in public areas. Within easy walking distance of the vast Akropolis shopping centre, also find a basic restaurant and two meeting rooms. Q84 rooms (45 - 87). HAR6ULKXW hhh
fax (+370) 46 40 30 21, hotel@promenada.lt, www. promenada.lt. Close to the train and bus stations on a quiet, leafy street, find 22 rooms to suit all needs and tastes. Each comes with the classic things youd expect from a decent three-star hotel including satellite television, bathrooms with a choice of showers or baths, and a well-stocked minibar for quiet nights in. Internet access is also available, plus theres an in-house international restaurant. Q22 rooms (129 320Lt). JAR6LKW hhh 46 34 60 63, vetra.klaipeda@hotel.lt, www.vetrahotel. lt. Accomplishing more things with shades of brown than even we thought imaginable, Vtra is located about 10 minutes out of the centre next to an old marketplace selling fruit, vegetables and other exciting things. The place is not bad and if you ask for a room, request the best, as it is in fact the best by far. The additions of a sauna, conference facilities and a restaurant make for a fairly reasonable deal. Q17 rooms (110 - 190Lt). Breakfast not included. PHAR6LKD hhh

Old Port Hotel M-7, vej 20, tel. (+370) 46 47 47

Pajrio Viekelis Liepojos 7a, tel./fax (+370) 46 21 19 40, info@pajuriovieskelis.lt, www.pajuriovieskelis. lt. Handy for car drivers uncomfortable with driving in the city centre, this family-run hotel offers 11 standard and three luxury rooms with all mod cons for a price thats not exactly the cheapest in town but thats still good value for money. The building and the interior are both unusual to say the least, plus theres conference facilities, parking, a sauna and even a pool table. The hotel can be found about 6km north of Old Town on the main road towards Palanga. Q16 rooms (135 - 400Lt). THARLDCW hhh

Promenada M-1, auli 41, tel. (+370) 46 40 30 20,

Vtra Taikos 80a, tel. (+370) 673 377 33, fax (+370)

Budget
Fortna Poilsio 28, tel./fax (+370) 46 34 80 28,
fortuna@fortuna.lt, www.fortuna.lt. If you ever wanted proof of the continuing German influence on contemporary Klaipda, clap a look at the bedrooms here. Magnificent in their faded chintz appeal, the rooms inside this small, grey brick oddity in the south of the city have got the word gasthaus written all over them. A little expensive for your money, what you get is a bed, cable television, minibar and little else. Scoring high on the quirky scale, youre either going to love this place or look for something a little more modern. Q8 rooms (80 - 190Lt). R6LW

Guesthouses
Aismars H-4, Tils 9, tel. (+370) 46 42 01 95, info@aismares.lt, www.aismares.lt. Tucked away inside a quiet courtyard behind the vyturys factory complete with the occasional pleasant smell of hops, the rooms are spartan, clean, and, for the price, surprisingly well equipped. Surplus to a bed are satellite television, en suite showers klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

H. Manto

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and wireless internet. Good for groups, extras include conference facilities, Turkish bath, sauna and small swimming pool. Q 10 rooms (80 - 600Lt). Breakfast not included. JHARLKDCW

Friedricho Svei Namai O-7, altkalvi 3, tel. (+370) 46 39 10 20, fax (+370) 46 39 10 19, hotel@pasazas. lt, www.pasazas.lt. It was only a matter of time before the Friedricho people opened a hotel and this splendid little guesthouse is the welcome result. Boasting just six apartments including the knockout Royal Apartment, youll have facilities coming out of your ears no matter which you choose to stay in. The price includes breakfast and parking, although you should be warned that the check-in time is a rather disappointing 15:00. Q8 rooms (148 - 685Lt). PJHARW hhhh Litinterp L-5, Puodi 17, tel. (+370) 46 41 06 44/ (+370) 656 188 17, fax (+370) 46 42 01 76, klaipeda@ litinterp.lt, www.litinterp.com. If you overlook the almost inescapable fact that anyone over 50 centimetres tall is going to bang their head several times a day if they camp out on the top floor, Litinterp can do no wrong. One of the oldest and most respected names in post-Soviet Lithuania, Litinterps business thrives on giving people clean albeit basic accommodation with no frills, good service, quirky breakfasts in a basket and a bill at the end of your stay thats hardly going to make a dent in your wallet. On a quiet street in the city centre their reputation goes before them, so if you like the idea of staying here during the peak season be sure to book well in advance. Free wireless internet too. What more could you possibly ask for? Q19 rooms (70 - 250Lt). TJA6LGW hh Pirkli Namai L/M-5, Naujojo Sodo 12, tel. (+370) 46 31 31 79, fax (+370) 46 25 79 29, info@pirkliunamai. lt, www.pirkliunamai.lt. Six spacious and agreeably good value doubles and suites in a renovated 19th-century building right in the centre of the city yet in a quiet part of it surrounded by green. Facilities include free wireless internet throughout and a range of extras from ironing service to tourist information. Rooms can also accommodate an extra bed for families or groups travelling on a particularly tight budget. Q6 rooms (150 - 310Lt). PJHA6ILDCW Preliudija N-6/7, Kepj 7, tel. (+370) 46 31 00 77,
preliudija@gmail.com, www.preliudija.com. Right in the heart of Old Town, the rooms are comfortable with all the basics that you really need and none of the stuff that you probably dont. The staff are very pleasant, but you might have to press the doorbell a few times to wake them up if you return from a session in the middle of the night. Free wireless internet is available throughout. Q6 rooms (140 - 260Lt). TJAR6W

Simon Dach House L-5, Jros 7, tel. (+370) 46 31 14 81, www.sdh.lt. Exceptional value in the centre of the city, the Simon Dach House provides three guesthousestyle apartments complete with kitchenettes, televisions, wooden floors and oriental rugs. One of the few places around offering budget accommodation thats also good for groups and families. Q6 rooms (100 - 170Lt). Breakfast unavailable. TJA6LW

Hostels
Klaipda Hostel O-2, Butk Juzs 7-4, tel. (+370) 655 944 07, info@klaipedahostel.com, www.klaipedahostel.com. Right next to the bus and train stations and among the cheapest places to stay in town, this small and well established hostel is a great choice for backpackers and families who need a good budget choice without having to sleep too far out of the city centre. Facilities include free wireless internet, communal kitchen and laundry services plus theres bicycle rental and a choice of extra activities including a number of tours in and around Klaipda. Q 6 rooms (9 - 18). Breakfast not included. JRLW Kubu M-2, H. Manto 37a, tel. (+370) 676 420 18, vilma@kubu.lt, www.kubu.lt. A welcome addition to a town that seriously lacks bottom-end budget accommodation, all the rooms are mixed dormitories with extra facilities including free wireless internet, kitchen, laundry and no dreaded curfew. Bicycle rental and tourism advice is also available. Q 4 rooms (10 - 16). Breakfast not available. JRLW

Apartments
Apartament Nuoma Tel. (+370) 698 201 58, www. apartamentunuoma.lt. Several apartments, some of which are very posh indeed, available for rent for any period from a single night to long-term. The apartments are all in Old Town or the centre. See the website for information on each one. Q (100 - 350Lt/night). J6W Jukunda Molo 71, tel. (+370) 698 461 61, jukunda@
takas.lt, www.jukunda.lt. Several gorgeous self-contained apartments next to a pine forest and a minutes walk from the sea, all coming with three luxury bedrooms, bathrooms with washing machines, and modern, spacious living rooms complete with 500-channel satellite television and fast internet connections. Theres guarded parking, and to top it all, saunas in the cellar. Perfect for those looking for a luxury seaside break, or car owners doing business in Klaipda. Q 5 apartments (100 - 200/night). T6DW hhhh

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WHERE TO STAY

storaantis@gmail.com, www.storaantis.lt. Managed by the people with the restaurant of the same name, these select apartments in Klaipda and Palanga come with everything necessary for a nice self-catering stay. Some are also available for long-term rent. Have a look at the website for full information about each one. Q 3 apartments (45 - 70/ night). TJAW

Stora Antis N-6, Tilt 1, tel. (+370) 686 250 20,

very close to the sea, what you get for your money is the chance to pitch a tent, park a camper, rent a little wooden summerhouse or fight over the guesthouse. Theres also a sauna, caf and sports facilities. Q 35Lt/person plus tent (10Lt) or camper (35Lt).

Basic data
Population Lithuania 2,971,905*, Klaipda 159,437 Ethnic composition (Lithuania) Lithuanians 83.7% Poles 6.6% Russians 5.3% Belarusians 1.3% Ukrainians 0.6% Others 3.3% Territory 65,303km2 Roughly twice the size of Belgium, and the largest of the three Baltic nations. Fertile lowland, peppered with many lakes. North to south, the greatest distance is 276km, east to west is 373km Borders Baltic Sea 99km Belarus 502km Latvia 453km Poland 91km Russia (Kaliningrad) 227km Longest river Nemunas 937km (475km in Lithuania) Largest lake Drkiai 4,479ha Highest point Auktasis 293.8m

Camping
The inhabitants of Lithuania love being outdoors. They also have an eye for a bargain. Accordingly, the campsites of Lithuania can get very busy during the height of the tourist season. Booking in advance is highly recommended. Both sites listed here are open all year round.

Pajrio Kempingas laito 3, Giruliai, Klaipda,

tel. (+370) 677 732 27, camping@klaipedainfo.lt, www.campingklaipeda.lt. Located in the tiny village of Giruliai about 8km north of the centre and very close to the sea, find space for a limited number of tents and camper vans plus a few little chalets going for a song. Facilities include electricity, washing area, bicycle rental and barbecue space. Half way between the sea and the local station, trains run regularly during the day to and from Klaipda and take 10 minutes. Q 8 rooms (140 - 220Lt). 15Lt/person plus tent (15 - 20Lt) or camper (30 - 60Lt). hh

gelis.lt, www.ziogelis.lt. Its claim as The Best Place in the World may be a little far-fetched but dont let us stop you from camping here. Located just north of the city and

iogelis Karkl, tel. (+370) 686 629 15, info@zio-

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RESTAUrANTS
Symbol key
P Air conditioning E Live music T Child friendly G Non-smoking X Smoking place I Fireplace A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled W Wireless Internet access B Outside seating J Old town location

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Prices listed in the Restaurants section of this guide refer to the average cost of a main course for one, excluding drinks. Ask a local to list the best places to eat in Klaipda and watch the creases on his forehead multiply. Its just not that sort of city. Agreed, there are one or two outstanding places to eat, but, as with its nightlife options, if youre in town for a while youll soon run out of new places to visit and enjoy. Add to this a modicum of howling, inept and occasionally rude service and youll start to understand why the local supermarkets do such a roaring trade. With a couple of abysmal exceptions, the very best options are all listed here. If you do feel the need to tip, 10% is generally considered the norm.

Armenian
Ararat P-4, Liep 48a, tel. (+370) 46 41 00 01, www. ararat.lt. An altogether exotic experience, this hotel restaurant stands heads and shoulders above most of its contemporaries both in standards of dcor and what they put on your plate. Complete with swirly Islamic patterns and brightly coloured rugs, the menu is packed with classic Armenian dishes cooked by an expert. Vegetarians avoid. Everybody else should certainly consider paying them a visit. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. 23Lt. PTJAUBSW

Delano I-7, Taikos 61 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 659 551

Asian
Soya I-7, Taikos 61 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 611 432
95, www.soya.lt. Found on the second floor above the ili Kaimas restaurant, Soya ser ves a mind-bog gling array of traditional dishes from China, Japan, Korea and Thailand alongside some interesting fusion options and other Western influenced food including maki sushi, exotic salads, kimchi and banana tempura. Put together by master chef Yu Chen, this place is setting new standards in Asian cuisine, a welcome relief in a city that struggles to provide quality and authentic food from the region. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. 18Lt. PTAVSW

71. Its a cheap self-service canteen in a large shopping centre 10 minutes from the city centre but so what? Surrounded by vast windmills and silly dancing clocks, Delano makes no claims to being anything other than a place to serve those who eat to live rather than the other way round. The choice of instantly available hot food on offer is impressive, plus theres two salad bars, a soup station and plenty of chilled desserts to keep everybody happy and well fed. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. 12Lt. PAUSW

Buffet express
If youve just read the entire restaurant chapter of this guidebook and you still havent been served, stay calm, collect your belongings and pop into a place where the food is served piping hot and straight from metal containers.

70, www.senojihansa.lt. There was an awful moment not so long ago when this super little place was the last business operating in the building and it only seemed a matter of time before it also bit the dust. Thankfully things have improved immensely of late, meaning the best buffet food in Klaipda lives to fight another day. Whilst the scope of food on offer remains minimal, it continues to beat everything else around for quality. Outstanding sustenance in a jiffy. QOpen 10:00 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 10Lt. JASW

Senoji Hansa M-3, H. Manto 21, tel. (+370) 618 605

Chinese
Huang Gong I-7, Taikos 61 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 639
766 77, www.kinu-restoranas.com. Our one and only visit to this new Chinese place was marked by a number of memorable events including the arrival of an unhappy waitress who failed to serve what was asked for. Clearly trying, although not hitting the mark at all, they do at least have some Chinese beer on the menu. The food, which includes frogs legs and snails, is perfectly ok if a little expensive, although we cant comment on the desserts as the unhappy waitress slammed down the bill before we had time to order any. Also at Taikos 141 (BIG2). QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 19Lt. PASW

Caf Klaipda O-2, Butk Juzs 9 (Bus Station), tel. (+370) 46 21 76 83. Grab a tray and edge your way around the counter filling it up with the help of one of the young girls working here. The food is classic Eastern European fodder, surprisingly good value considering the location and, best of all, ready to eat without the agonising wait. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 19:00. 9Lt. PJABSW klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

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RESTAUrANTS
Jing Bin Lou N-7, Turgaus 23, tel. (+370) 46 25 79 37. Friendly, affordable and liable to double your body weight if you order the large portions, the substantial menu provides solid if not entirely authentic Chinese dishes to suit most tastes to be eaten in the usual atmosphere of red lanterns and Lithuanian television. Both previous outings here met with a completely empty restaurant and a staffto-customer ratio to die for, although lunchtimes can get painfully busy. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 18Lt. PTJABSW Kin Bambukas M-4, H. Manto 11a, tel. (+370) 608
103 88. Pictures of pandas on the walls, a huge selection of sadly average food and good people-watching opportunities are whats on offer here. On the plus side, the massive portions are extremely good value for money, but unfortunately they dont provide dish heaters so if you dont rush your meal youll end up eating it cold. Also at Taikos 66a (Grandus). QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. 25Lt. PTJAVBSW

International
Eldorado M-2, Lietuvinink 2, tel. (+370) 46 33 33 33. Back after a prolonged spell of closure, Eldorado is even stranger and more kitsch than before. A long, thin, underground space decorated by somebody with a possible love of 1960s sci-fi, its impossible to pin down just exactly what this place is. The average international food is dressed up to new levels of ostentation, the abundance of bright red absolutely everywhere is positively disturbing and the large screens that get taken over whenever theres basketball on the television make a complete mockery of any predispositions to intimacy. Absolutely bonkers. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. 27Lt. PTJABSW Fat Cat N-6, vej 21, tel. (+370) 46 41 61 73. The restaurant whose dubious claim to fame is that Adolf Hitler allegedly ate here in 1939, despite the total overhaul inside and the change of name, Fat Cat remains pretty much the same as it ever was. For those who never visited, its a pleasant place for both eating and drinking with a good menu including locally caught smoked fish that often sees a representative selection of the citys expat community swearing in various Scandinavian languages and falling of the bar stools during several evenings each week. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. 32Lt. PTJABSW Keltininko Namas M-7, vej 20, tel. (+370) 46 47 47 64, www.oldporthotel.lt. The food is excellent, and the service speaks of good taste, experience and respect. That would be enough for us to give this place a glowing recommendation, but adding to those important factors are the gorgeous building and a lovely location right by the river. Plus you can eat duck and watch happy sunburnt people glide by on their expensive yachts. The atmosphere is elegant and refined and, to top it all off, the prices are not at all unreasonable for a hotel restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. 34Lt. PTJAUBSW La Cl N-7, Sukilli 10, tel. (+370) 693 123 55. An award-winning Lithuanian chef oversees the preparation of a small menu of changing dishes made from fresh ingredients inside a restaurant Klaipdas been crying out for for years. The food is mostly meat- and fish-based, looks good, tastes good and is complimented with a fine menu of wines. Everythings prepared in an open kitchen and were still struggling to believe it really exists. Recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 30Lt. TJABS Lja M-4, H. Manto 20, tel. (+370) 46 41 24 44. Adding a slice of much needed class to what remains a fairly lacklustre culinary street this marvellous white tablecloth affair serves ambitious, unpretentious international food in lovely surroundings. Service is a bit random as is the norm, but that aside you could do a hell of a lot worse. Particularly good for large groups of diners. QOpen 10:30 - 15:00. 10Lt. PTJA6ULBS

French
31 44 71. Actually more French in dcor than in what they get up to in the kitchen, this primarily international affair also serves some good fish dishes and has a fine wine menu to go with it. Not bad food and a superb location, be warned that during the summer tourist season it can get excruciatingl y busy with ser vice known to grind almost to a hal t. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. 30Lt. PTJABSW

Aniks Teatras N-7, Sukilli 8, tel. (+370) 46

Fun
Ridikai H-8, Varnn 7, tel. (+370) 648 330 19. Total chaos but good fun all the same, the owners of Ridikai on the corner of the street that leads to First Ferry Terminal have opted for a no-menu approach with the chefs wandering the tables offering suggestions and taking orders and a woman behind the bar taking care of the drinks. They cook the meat to almost perfection in here and even better you can order any combination you like. On the minus side the range of drinks is minimal to say the least, but this shouldnt put potential diners off. Its a rare occasion indeed when a Lithuanian business gets a gimmick right, and this is one of them. Recommended. Q Open 11:00 - 16:30, 18:00 20:30. Closed Mon (only summer time). Open 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. 20Lt. ABSW Viva la Vita M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1 (Amberton Klaipda hotel), tel. (+370) 46 22 88 00, www.vivalavita.lt. Located at the top of the K building Viva la Vita classifies itself as a cocktail bar serving exotic food, which it undeniably is and does although the main reason most people drop by is for the breathtaking views of the harbour, lagoon, Curonian Spit and Baltic Sea. Its easier for a rich man to enter the kingdom of God than get a window seat at sunset here, but please dont let that put you off. A visit to Klaipda without an ear-popping ride in the lift to visit this place is time very badly spent indeed. Alongside the aforementioned delicacies are some good bottles of beer and meat cooked on a griddle. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. 28Lt. PTJALSW

Juice bars
Bandeli Alja N-4, Mavydo 6, tel. (+370) 674 415 99. Formerly known as Sula and originally a fine juice bar, this recommended place has been renamed and is larger than before, making space for the addition of a range of baked goods to compliment the fresh fruit juice and ecological products. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PJS klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

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RESTAUrANTS
Slavic
Stora Antis N-6, Tilt 6, tel. (+370) 46 49 39 10,
www.storaantis.lt. The fat duck is a charming fairytale place scattered with knick-knacks and cleverly tucked away in an Old Town street. The range of food is impressive and should offer something for everyone, while the amicable atmosphere will keep everyone happy. Not content with just running a restaurant, Stora Antis now rents apartments in Klaipda and up the road in Palanga. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. 35Lt. TJBS through a menu of pizza, pasta and other dishes in simple surroundings whilst attended by good-natured staff. Even if youre not after a full meal its worth a visit for their hot fresh bread alone. The location next to river really should make this fairly recent addition to the citys restaurants a real winner. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 07:00. 25Lt. JABSW

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Navalis M-3, H. Manto 23, tel. (+370) 46 40 42 00, www.navalis.lt. Where the smart local and expat business professionals come to dine, unlike most hotel restaurants this one is worth going out of your way for. A simple-looking affair with large windows overlooking one of the liveliest streets in town, the service is some of the best in the region and the international menu, which changes daily, is a constant hit among those in the know. Try one of their superb steaks or pasta dishes, or, if youre looking for a cracking bargain, take advantage of the weekday business lunch. QOpen 11:00 24:00. 32Lt. PTJAULSW
tel. (+370) 46 49 08 00, www.radissonblu.com. The Radissons splendid in-house restaurant provides excellent service and equally admirable food from breakfast through to supper. Designed with a jaunty nautical feel, the international menu is packed with classic dishes including a good range of seafood options to a highly commendable steak to one or two vegetarian choices. If youre actually staying here, the buffet breakfast is well worth getting out of bed for. Q Open 06:30 - 15:00; 18:00 - 22:30. 45Lt. PTJAULBSW

Ryi Malnas M-7, vej 22, tel. (+370) 46 47 47 64, www.oldporthotel.lt. One of two restaurants inside the same hotel, the Rice Mills reputation as a better than average place to gorge on recommended Italian food demands further investigation. The bill of fare features arguably the best pizzas in town plus a handful of other classic Italian favourites including one or two highly commendable pasta dishes. The view of the river is also worth a brief mention. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. 18Lt. PTAUBSW

Lithuanian
There are essentially two types of Lithuanian restaurant in Lithuania. The first and most obvious variety features pigtailed waitresses in national dress serving plates of potatoes and beetroot soup in an atmosphere reminiscent of an old barn. The second is less easy to pin down, and is perhaps best described as a restaurant or caf serving predominantly but not exclusively Lithuanian favourites in an atmosphere you wont find anywhere other than in Lithuania. Rather than insult the best intentions of the good restaurant owners of Klaipda and call the former of the two Folk restaurants, we choose to list both types of restaurant together.

Newport M-3, auli 28 (Radisson Blu Hotel Klaipda),

Europa O-7, Tilt 13, tel. (+370) 600 859 02. Never

Vecekrug L-5, Jros 23, tel. (+370) 46 30 10 02, www. vecekrug.lt. A very swish restaurant indeed complete with a nautical theme care of some splendid pictures on the walls, this hotel-located treat provides an exclusive menu of meat and fish dishes plus a few exotic-sounding options such as Mexican soup. Theres pancakes too, plus an excellent value business lunch Monday to Friday. The warmer weather also provides and opportunity to dine on their lovely rooftop terrace complete with views of Old Town, the port and the Curonian Lagoon. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. 20Lt. PJAULBSW XIX Amius O-2, S. Nries 16a, tel. (+370) 46 21 66 19, www.19amzius.lt. Located inside a classic German building dating from around the start of the 20th century and built originally for the citys long vanished narrow gauge railway station, this pleasantly upmarket affair features a menu of mostly meat and fish dishes with a nod in the direction of vegetarians. We chose the chicken shish kebabs (vitienos alykai) and werent disappointed. Theres also a good selection of drinks and desserts and live music on Saturdays. The location next to the bus and train stations makes it a good choice for fresh arrivals in need of immediate sustenance. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. PTJAULEBSW

quite making it as either an international or Chinese restaurant, Europa is currently masquerading as a place for middle-aged gentlemen to come and drink cheap vyturys whilst furtively ogling the barmaid. Eating the food, which is best described as Eastern European, isnt compulsory. Early closing means its an interesting place to start an evening of drinking and little else. Odd. QOpen 10:00 22:00. 13Lt. PJAS

50, www.flamingobaras.lt. Next to the small statue of Herkus Mantas after whom the street its on is named, you can treat this place as either a caf providing good frothy coffee and cakes or as something altogether more substantial. Although the menu assumes an international flavour the food is little more than basic Eastern European fare, which is no bad thing indeed by the way. Like just about every other restaurant in the country nowadays, Flamingo also offers a reasonably flavoursome set workday lunch. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. 20Lt. PJABSW

Flamingo M-4, H. Manto 38, tel. (+370) 46 31 06

Kebabs
Nerija D-4, Smiltyns 15, tel. (+370) 46 39 11 21.
If the weathers bad its best to avoid this place like the plague because the interior is pretty grim. If its warm however, its more than worth the visit. Located immediately south of ferry terminal on the Smiltyn side of the Curonian Lagoon, ignore the fancy-sounding dishes and take advantage of their excellent skewered kebabs (alykai ) which are cooked outdoors in the traditional way. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 17Lt. TABS

Italian
La Terrasse M-7, vej 10, tel. (+370) 676 319 99. It wasnt that long ago that most Italian restaurants in Lithuania got their bread from the supermarket, in fact many still do. Not here though. Using only fresh ingredients eat your way klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

June 2013 - May 2014

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RESTAUrANTS
Friedricho Smukl O-7, Tilt 26a, tel. (+370) 46 21
13 90, www.pasazas.lt. Located along the infamous Friedricho Pasaas, the citys great little row of restaurants, cafs and even a guesthouse all operating under the same banner, this restaurant specialising in Lithuanian food suffers from the occasional lack of staff when its busy but dont let this minor blemish put you off. The traditional dishes from around Lithuania they make here are not only good but exceptionally good value too. Worth further investigation at any time of year, but especially during the summer when the space outdoors is buzzing with life. Q Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 20Lt. PJAVBSW

Senoji Hansa N-7, Kurpi 1, tel. (+370) 46 40 00 56, www.senojihansa.lt. Lithuania in one, the square this place is located on could easily be one of the liveliest and most charming public spaces in the Baltics. Instead, like the curse of the Black Death the summertime terrace is squashed down a narrow neighbouring street giving punters a choice of walls to look at instead of something altogether more enjoyable. The restaurant itself knocks out good food at a surprisingly affordable price, and the terrace can be a lively place on the right evening or weekend afternoon. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 01:30, Sat 11:00 - 01:30, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. JABSW Trys Mylimos H-6, Taikos 23, tel. (+370) 46 41 14 79. We gave this place a wide berth for a while having suffered the very worst of Lithuanian service here a couple of years back. Finally plucking up the courage to return, we werent particularly surprised to discover the service could still do with some improvement although they have at least replaced the misery guts staff with a more diner-friendly species. The location isnt great either, but for quality Lithuanian cuisine for a good price that concentrates very much on dishes local to the region youll struggle to find anywhere else as good. Q Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 15Lt. TABS

Juodasis Vilkas Statybinink 18, tel. (+370) 620 382 35. Found inside a converted school in a grey sleeping district in the south of the city, the Black Wolf wavers between genius and disaster depending on the mood of the staff and whether anybody turns up to eat. Popular with families thanks to a rather charming outdoor section, the food is no award winner, but its worth a try on a balmy Sunday lunchtime for an authentic taste of what the locals get up to in their spare time. Dont expect much English spoken, if any at all. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 18Lt. PTABSW Katpdl I-8, Baltijos 24/64 (Arena), tel. (+370) 46 41 94 18, www.katpedele.lt. One of a number of national chains of folk-themed restaurants, Katpdl cater to the slightly lower end of the market, offering the usual roll call of classic Lithuanian fare delivered to your table by a bunch of students dressed like their grandmothers. This branch is slightly north of the centre inside a shopping centre and opposite the German Soldiers Cemetery. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. 17Lt. PTABS Liepiedis O-4, Liep 34, tel. (+370) 46 41 17 15. A
typically local affair with something of a canteen aesthetic, to the right on entering is the place where you need to order and wait to eat from a menu of predictable dishes whilst to the left is a counter providing ready-to-eat food and salads including a very passable vegetarian option. Good value food worth further investigation if you happen to be in the area. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. 15Lt. JABS

Mediterranean
Friedricho Restoranas O-7, Tilt 26a, tel. (+370)
46 30 10 70, www.pasazas.lt. Featuring predominantly Mediterranean dishes and posh wine, Friedricho Restoranas represents the very best of eating and drinking along one of the citys most famous streets. Using fresh ingredients including Spanish olives marinated on the premises, recommended are the Spanish ham and Greek-style bread. Q Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 35Lt. PJAVEBSW

Mexican
Desperados B-3, Maojo Kaimelio 1, tel. (+370) 601 891 79. From the same people who operate the splendid Leika in Old Town, this recently opened Mexican restaurant-bar is a bit of a trek out of the centre but worth the minor safari needed to find the place. Decorated as one would expect of a Mexican restaurant behind the former Iron Curtain and featuring a small but pleasant garden at the front, the menu is packed with all the usual suspects such as burittos, fajitas and nachos as well as some more ambitious dishes including the recommended steamed mussels in wine and cream sauce with garlic bread. The drinks menu is equally impressive, featuring six different tequilas as well as beer, cocktails, wine and other drinks. A taxi from Old Town is going to cost something in the region of 15Lt. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. 14Lt. PBSW

Senamiesio Baras O-7, Banyi 4/10, tel. (+370) 46 41 22 37. Superbly hidden away and known to very few, this isnt what one expects from a restaurant inside a courtyard full of art galleries and workshops. Dark and simple inside, the food served up is the sort of stuff youd expect to find on a menu in a small Lithuanian town whilst the drinks are equally conservative. Theres an excellent value business lunch served here, plus the chance to rub shoulders with some of the citys leading contemporary artists. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. JBSW

Sushi
Sushi Express P-4, Dans 6, tel. (+370) 630 009
09, www.sushiexpress.lt. Now safely scattered in all three major Lithuanian cities, Sushi Express Klaipda restaurant conforms to earlier openings around the country by positioning the place in a rather obscure location. Dont let that put you off though. This may not be sushi at its best, but for Eastern Europe its not so bad. The range is impressive and there are a few party sets going as well. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. 13Lt. JABS

Pizza
Loved and avoided in equal measures, the somewhat controversial Bambola churns out perfectly fine pizzas for a song to people who dont mind their Italian food not very Italian. Some people swear blind this is the best restaurant in town (it isnt), a claim thats about to be put to the test as the national pizza chain ili Pica takes up residence across the street. Q Open 09:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. 12Lt. JAVBS

Bambola M-5, H. Manto 1, tel. (+370) 46 43 33 33.

Klaipda In Your Pocket

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Charlie Pizza N-4, Mavydo 4, tel. (+370) 612 323 54, www.charlie.lt. It came as no great surprise to learn that the truly awful cocktail bar that stood on this site a year ago went out of business much in the same way as it came as no great surprise to see a Charlie Pizza in its place. Currently taking over city centres throughout the country, this hugely popular restaurant may not make much of an impression in Italy, but by local standards at least the pizzas are more than ok. Theres other international and local dishes on offer as well, and a good range of cold cheap beer. The summer terrace is a fine place to sit and watch the world go by at any time of day or night. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. 15Lt. PTJAVBSW ili Pica N-5, Liep 2, tel. (+370) 46 21 02 01, www.
cili.lt. Finally taking the plunge and opening a restaurant in the very centre of the action, national pizza heroes ili Picas latest Klaipda restaurant is a variation on a theme of all the others, meaning carefully chosen dcor to offend nobody and friendly staff barely out of school who make up for their ineptitude with bucket loads of conviviality. The pizza is edible and good value for money, plus theres plenty of other things on the menu for those who dont understand the attraction. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. 13Lt. PTJAUBSW

supposedly derived from the notes of the infamous Russian prime minister-gourmet Pyotr Stolypin. Try the soup served in a loaf of bread, a classic Russian favourite thats more than a meal in itself. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 20Lt. PTJABS

Steak
Trapiche Steakhouse O-7, Tilt 26a, tel. (+370) 46
30 10 70, www.pasazas.lt. Opposite the Blacksmiths Museum at the far end of the passage, surplus to the different types of steak they serve are a range of other dishes including lamb and fish. Somewhat strangely for a Lithuanian restaurant, the people here actually know what theyre doing and can recommend exactly the right wine to go with the food. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 40Lt. PJAVBSW

Swiss
Haemmerli N-7, Didioji Vandens 13/16, tel. (+370)
46 31 12 09. Not only are the food and service top-notch, but the little extras such as homemade bread make this place a well deserved institution. The only Swiss restaurant in the country, Haemmerli also prepares a few other dishes of equal magnitude. The bright and unfussy atmosphere and the summer outdoor seating are very hard to beat. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. 20Lt. PTJABSW

Friedricho Picerija O-7, Tilt 26a, tel. (+370) 46 49 35 93, www.pasazas.lt. Concentrating their energy on classic Italian pizza pays off here, as the pizza in question is very good indeed. As well as the classic Italian peasant dish complete with scores of toppings is a menu of other dishes for those who prefer to eat something different. A nice touch to this bright and cheerful place is the addition of scores of decorated pizza dishes stuck to the ceiling. QOpen 11:00 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 16Lt. PJAVBSW Pipita N-2, S. Nries 10, tel. (+370) 46 21 34 41, www. pipita.lt. An often overlooked gem of a find, quite possibly because of its location close to the bus and train stations, as well as some fiendishly cheap pizzas is a small menu of Lithuanian food which is good value at any time of day and practically free when its added to the weekday lunch specials. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. 9Lt. PJAVBSW

Valgyklas
Translating into English as dining room or canteen, the classic Lithuanian valgykla offers students and workers simple, hearty meals in unsophisticated surroundings at rock bottom prices. Open daily for a few short hours during the working week, dont expect English menus or polyglots among the staff. A student in the queue should be able to help you order if you have any communication difficulties.

Russian
Ferdinandas L-4, Naujoji Uosto 10, tel. (+370) 46 31 36 81. A cracking Russian restaurant, that, with the exception of a couple of samovars and the costumes they drape the staff in, doesnt take its Russian pedigree too seriously. Historically speaking, the menu here is a treasure, being klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

Romdera H-3, Dans 8, tel. (+370) 612 331 57. Slightly out of the way and hardly what one would call fine dining, this otherwise exemplary location for shovelling cheap local food in your face cant come recommended enough. Grab a tray, and shuffle down the counter until a nice lady asks you want youd like. All of the main dishes are in front of you, hidden under metal lids. Pay at the other end, put your dirty plate etc. on the table at the back on the right after eating and thats it. Youll struggle to spend more than three euros here and you wont need to eat again for about 12 hours. On your way out take a look at the residential building opposite, a rare example of post-war Socialist Realist splendour complete with crenelations and ornate balconies. QOpen 07:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. 10Lt. PS June 2013 - May 2014

26

CAFS
www.ajsokoladas.lt. A small caf on a side street, notable for selling handmade chocolates from Trakai. Limited seating is available for coffee, plus there are a couple of chairs and tables outside in the street. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JABS

AJ okoladas N-4, J. Karoso 9, tel. (+370) 618 771 99,

Bakeries
Bandeli Namai L-2, J. Janonio 6, tel. (+370) 46 31 07 22. A great choice of cakes and buns made on the premises, this small bakery is a huge hit with the locals and is never without a customer. Great for grabbing a bite whilst on the hoof, they also do a fine pizza. Recommended. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JS Pitliaus Skanstai O-7, Tilt 17/22, tel. (+370)
615 940 08, www.pitlius.lt. Slightly hidden from the main street, Pitlius functions almost exclusively as a bakery and patisserie but also has a couple of chairs and tables and the option of tea and coffee. Nothing spectacular, it simply provides the option to take a short break in quiet surroundings. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. JBS

Coffee Inn N-6, Tilt 2, tel. (+370) 699 858 52, coffeeinn.lt. The countrys trendy caf chain comes to Klaipda, although judging by the low attendance figures so far Klaipda isnt quite ready for it. Its a shame really because Coffee Inn is definitely one of the best of its kind, serving excellent coffee plus sandwiches, muffins and wraps too boot. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Fri 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PJABW Cukrain N-6, vej 17, tel. (+370) 46 21 02 93. Run by the former bar manager at Vilnius once magnificent club Gravity on behalf of his mother, not surprisingly this onetime nondescript caf and short-lived kebab house is now one of the hippest addresses in town. Small and intimate and aimed at young people who arent afraid of mixing their cigarettes with other substances, in most European cities Cukrain would go almost unnoticed. Here on the other hand it positively shines out like a beacon. Weve been wondering when Klaipda would join the 21st century. It just did. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. JSW Max Coffee M-4, H. Manto 22, tel. (+370) 640 555 57. Sandwiches, muffins, a canteen feel, friendly waitresses and young people glued to their laptops. The coffee passes as coffee and the prices are reasonable. What more do you need? Also at Turgaus 11. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. PJASW Navalis M-3, H. Manto 23, tel. (+370) 46 40 42 00, www.navalis.lt. Hugely popular with the citys business community as well as local celebrity wives and all manner of other home-grown characters, expect reasonable service, superb espresso, a wonderful value weekday business lunch and the possibility to eat from the menu of the classy if almost always empty restaurant next door. With the addition of outside seating (the terrace is a veritable sun trap in the mornings) plus free wireless internet, Navalis comes highly recommended indeed. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. PTJAULBSW

Pajrio Laikai N-6, Kurpi 7, tel. (+370) 611 903 79. An interesting little place lurking on an Old Town back street, as well as serving a somewhat limited choice of tea and coffee this caf also doubles as an art gallery showing the work of local contemporary artists. Unlike much of the instantly forgettable art being produced in Lithuania, a lot of the stuff on show here is rather good. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Pointas N-7, Tomo 10, tel. (+370) 662 382 38. Following in the footsteps of a similar operation in Vilnius, Pointas philosophy is admirable if a little strange. The only payments made here are for the time you spend in the place, with the addition of free tea and coffee and the option to bring along whatever else you want. Theres free wireless internet, which is available just about everywhere now, so were not really sure why anyone would visit. People do however, so they must be doing something right. Bizarre indeed. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. JAESW Vero Caf N-6, Tilt 1, tel. (+370) 618 559 10, www.
verocafe.lt. On the opposite corner to Coffee Inn Vero Caf is the slightly less pretentious of the two but is basically a carbon copy with more than a passing nod to Starbucks. The coffees fine and the sandwiches and snacks arent too bad either, but for the summer at least there really are better places to sit in the warm and ingest caffeine. QOpen 08:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PJBSW

Theatre Square

Klaipda In Your Pocket

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For the countrys third city, Klaipdas nightlife options are few and far between. On the positive side, what does exist is reasonably varied plus there are a slowly growing number of bars that wouldnt look out of place in the more interesting parts of Berlin. The home of vyturys beer, do make sure you try at least one of their brews when in town. In all bars and clubs, take care of your valuables and never leave wallets and mobile phones unattended. With a few rare and welcome exceptions, service is in at best embarrassingly awful.

Jazz
www.jazzkurpiai.lt. Some of the best and some of the worst jazz in Lithuania gets played in this compact wooden space, which is a shame because if they kept the riff-raff out and concentrated their efforts on providing quality live performers whilst developing the place as a bar this would be one of the top 10 after dark venues in the country. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00.

Kurpiai N-7, Kurpi 1a, tel. (+370) 46 41 05 55,

Bars
this place even half lived up to its rather super interior itd be worth popping in for a drink. Unfortunately however, it really is a bit awful in its derivativeness. Trying to be many things and failing in all of them, this recently opened establishment wouldve been embarrassing in Vilnius a decade ago. If you like weak cocktails, badly dressed young people and unimaginative DJs on the other hand, this may well be the place for you. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. JAEBW

Bar4Soul N-7, Turgaus 10, tel. (+370) 675 894 17. If only

Faksas N-6, vej 2, tel. (+370) 698 031 16. Klaipdas failure to provide good places to drink at night seems finally to be over with this place among a couple of others being one of the few bars in the city truly worth a visit. Featuring thrown-together furniture, a leaning towards tequila and a menu of Mexican food to match, Faksas finally gives people a reason to leave their hotel rooms after dark. QOpen 16:00 - 03:00. PABW
21 87 17, www.pasazas.lt. Further expanding their empire, these good people have upped sticks and crossed the river for the purpose of taking over one of the most prestigious addresses in town after two of its predecessors met untimely ends. Complete with the strangest collection of photographs glued to the walls, as well as serving a great range of drinks, they also dish up a wealth of affordable pub grub. The booth seating by the massive windows is some of the best for people watching in the city. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 03:30, Sun 11:30 - 22.00. PJAEBSW

Friedricho Baras M-4/5, H. Manto 5, tel. (+370) 46

Alcohol
Almost without exception Lithuanian beer (alus) is light, crisp, cold, cheap and delicious. Many varieties exist and youre recommended to test a few before settling on a regular brand. Among the more common varieties are the delicious local treat vyturys (see p.32) for information about going on a tour of their factory when in town), Utenos from Utena and Kalnapilis from Panevys. Lithuanian beers are often stronger than their Western counterparts, making the forming of the simplest words (such as alus) a challenge after couple of the most lethal. In the city centre expect to pay somewhere in the region of 6-12Lt for half a litre, and do try the beer in the citys Memelis microbrewery (see p.30) if you can. Lithuanian vodka (degtin) is cheap, generally of good quality and is drunk with gusto at the mere rumour of the dropping of a hat. Among the more interesting spirits are starka, a 15th-century, Polish-Lithuanian concoction of dark, syrupy rye vodka fortified with apple leaves and lime blossom, and the local illicit firewater, samagonas, available through the right connections. Take note that imported alcohol isnt cheap. Dont go falling into the trap of thinking that because the local stuff is give-away everything else is too. Check prices before a session to avoid embarrassment. For reasons that mystify everyone except the knuckle-headed MPs who passed it into law, Lithuanian legislation prohibits the sale of alcohol in shops between 22:00 and 08:00.

Herkus Kantas N-6, Kepj 17, tel. (+370) 615 851 27. Very few people would disagree that this is the best bar in the city, both in terms of atmosphere and what they sell in the way of beer. Specialising in quality ale from small breweries in Lithuania and abroad and featuring a weekly guest beer, they also churn out an impressive selection of hot food from burgers to burittos. Find it hiding in a cramped Old Town cellar, which thankfully is improved during the warmer part of the year with the addition of outdoor seating. QOpen 15:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. JABW Leika N-7, Tomo 7, tel. (+370) 601 891 79. Located underneath the citys fine little Photography Gallery, Leika (Leica) is aimed at anyone with even a passing interest in culture, or beer. The photographic theme is a welcome relief after the usual turgid dcor found in most local bars and the choice of alcohol should keep everybody happy. Recommended. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. PJEBW June 2013 - May 2014

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NIGHTLIFE
Muitin H-4/5, Tils 6, tel. (+370) 46 38 22 30. A
dinky little bar serving cheap food and a good range of alcohol, Muitin is sometimes known to fill with colourful locals during the evening and can be an interesting diversion from the usual places in town aimed at foreigners. The nice little courtyard overlooking a quiet street is a fine place to start a pub crawl of some of the more offbeat places Klaipda has to offer. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. AB

Fabrik E-2, J. Janonio 27, tel. (+370) 633 535 35,

www.fabrikclub.lt. Every Lithuanian city of note has its own school disco, with Fabrik representing Klaipda very nicely indeed. Entirely unpretentious and churning out a veritable cavalcade of nights from electronica to disco-oriented student nights, readers scanning this review in December 2013 are recommended to give them a call before turning up as this place changes hands on a frighteningly regular basis.QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Entrance free 20Lt. PAE

www.skandalas.info. Lashings of vintage Americana line every wall and windowsill of this classic favourite, adding food for the eyes to a consistently fine and ambitious menu of seafood, pasta, fajitas, steak and plenty of other fun dishes. Both a restaurant and a bar, Skandalas has been packing them in for years, and for good reason. Recommended for a meal or a few cocktails accompanied by one of the live bands who grace the stage from time to time, theres nothing quite like this one for atmosphere or style. If a place isnt in the centre of the action as has been popular for more years than most care to remember, its impossible to deny that they must be doing something very right indeed. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PJAUEBSW

Skandalas L-3, I. Kanto 44, tel. (+370) 46 41 15 85,

www.martini-club.lt. Over-21s, preferably with their own BMWs, sharp suits and accompanying dollybirds only need apply. If they do make the grade and manage to squeeze past the weightlifters on security they should expect the cream of the citys new rich celebrating their wealth amidst red PVC seating and vast Martini signs. Appropriate DJs, live bands and cabaret acts complete the picture. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Entrance free 20Lt. PJAW

Martini R-7/8, Taikos 64/24b, tel. (+370) 600 578 77,

Sky 21 Terrace M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1a, tel. (+370) 607 272 27. Perched 70 metres up on the top of the citys K building, this al fresco hangout affords magnificent views of the Baltic Sea and the surrounding region whilst simultaneously failing to impress in any other way. Its almost as if they decided that the location was all that was needed, when in actual fact theres far more to a venue than the view. Ultimately though youd be a fool to not give it a go, but please dont expect anything special. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. JAEBW XII M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1 (Amberton Klaipda hotel), tel.
(+370) 46 40 43 72. Contrary to popular belief, the big K building hasnt quite taken the wind out of this places sails and the view, if slightly blocked, remains superb. Although really a restaurant (the excellent value steaks and salads are particularly good), people still come up here for a good drink with an equally pleasing view. The ocean panorama may have been eclipsed by its newer cocktail bar neighbour, but this is still the place to come for a commanding view of the city sprawled out below. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PJAESW

612 555 00. Featuring an interior with splashes of inspiration from the minds of a joint Bulgarian-US-Lithuanian design team and a 15kw sound system, Port appears to be aimed at a younger crowd and offers the classic Lithuanian club experience including theme nights, local DJs and an entirely pleasant if not exactly cutting-edge atmosphere. If you like it here and youre on your way east soon, you might like to also visit their venue in Kaunas.QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Entrance free - 20Lt. PJAEBW nesepb.lt. Its hard to argue with 13,912 Facebook fans, the amount of supporters this nightspot was garnering at press time. Part of a large complex that includes a casino and restaurant, Relax caters to a slightly older crowd than most of the citys clubs although in true style it still manages to pack in plenty of puerility including that Lithuanian institution known as the nurse evening. The mind boggles. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Entrance free -15/25Lt. PJAEBW

Port by BarBara L-5, Naujoji Uosto 11, tel. (+370)

Relax N-7, Turgaus 1/9, tel. (8-700) 555 55, www.

Clubs
Due to the universal law stating that its impossible to be in all places at all times, the club reviews in this guide are written to provide a general overview of whats to be expected if you visit them. As any serious clubber already knows, nights change with alarming regularity, good promoters come and go and expected crowds fail to turn up. For precise information about what to expect on any given night at the following establishments, youre strongly advised to check the clubs website.

Roxy L-1, Priestoio 9, tel. (+370) 614 875 00, w w w.roxyclub.lt. Found between the bus and train stations and not exactly the most prestigious address in town, Roxys calendar of events veers all over the place from cheesy student nights to live music from some excellent local and international bands. As always, check the website to avoid disappointment. Q Open 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Entrance free - 20Lt. PAE

Bowling & Billiards

Honolulu Bowling M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1 (Amberton Klaipda hotel), tel. (+370) 46 22 99 99, www. honolulu.lt. Big, bright and decorated with a beach theme, also find pool tables, slot machines and a sports bar. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PJA Metro 0-7, Tilt 16, tel. (+370) 676 402 82. A handful of average pool tables and a bar in the basement of an Old Town shopping centre. Q Open 24hrs. JA klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

Dr. Who M-5, Naujojo Sodo 1 (Amberton Klaipda Hotel), tel. (+370) 640 444 84, www.drwho.lt. At first glance its a rather daft name to call a club, but thinking about it for a minute its not actually all that bad. A veritable time machine of a place, complete with plenty of swinging hits of yesteryear if you hit it on the right night, Dr. Who blends club and cabaret to perfection, keeping the sparkly punters coming in droves to enjoy the fun. The attached terrace also offers the chance to come earlier and enjoy a drink and the view before the night really begins. QOpen 22:30 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Entrance free - 20Lt. PAEW Klaipda In Your Pocket

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NIGHTLIFE
Wine
Sumptuous and often empty, this exceedingly classy, white tablecloth affair offers both food and wine at extremely affordable prices. The only drawback by all accounts is that the food isnt worth eating, although for a tempting location for a romantic binge drinking session without an audience this is the place to head for. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 24:00. Closed Sun. PTJABW

Senoji Vynin N-6, vej 5, tel. (+370) 610 412 04.

Casinos
Olympic Casino M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1 (Amberton
Klaipda hotel), tel. (+370) 46 49 23 10, www. olympic-casino.lt. Q 24hrs. JW

Microbreweries
memelis.lt. A veritable Brazilian soap opera of a place, its anyones guess what fabulous surprises Memelis will bring over the next 12 months. You cant fault the look and feel of the place, the refreshing in-house beer in four varieties and the location next to the river complete with some of the best summer outdoor seating in the city. Housed inside a classic Germanic warehouse building, theres food too, although the main reason for dropping by is to get completely wasted on the local ale. Memelis (the Lithuanian word for Memel) is one of the two places of choice for Klaipdas expat drinking community. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. JABSW

Vinvino O-6, Turgaus 33, tel. (+370) 691 488 42. Recently sprouting up in a corner of Old Town that looks set to become the hippest part of town, Vinvino is your classic Lithuanian-style wine bar complete with a handsome array of wines from around the world plus a few stronger grape-derived drinks to boot. Theres a range of snacks too, plus the occasional evening event in which wine is tasted and talked about in the age-old tradition. The location close to the river makes it a good place to visit during the summer when customers take advantage of the limited outdoor seating. Despite the published opening hours, Vinvino has a policy of keeping its doors open until the last clients leave if necessary. QOpen 15:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Tue. JB

Memelis N-6, vej 4, tel. (+370) 604 906 49, www.

Club smarts
Can I buy you a drink? Galiu pavaiinti grimu? Golly, youre a fabulous dancer! Vajetau, tu oki nuostabiai! Get your coat sweetie, youve pulled Susirink skudurus, zuiki, ir varom

Adult entertainment
Hotel, 2nd floor), tel. (+370) 604 521 52, www. paradiseclub.lt. Ahhhhhh, lesbian shows, limousines and Jacuzzis, what more could a man with a credit card need? They dont call it Paradise for nothing. For a full list of their naughty services, take a look at the website when nobodys looking. QOpen 22:00 - 07:00. Entrance 100Lt. PJAW

Paradise M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1 (Amberton Klaipda

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WHAT TO SEE
With little left in the way of historical sights and barely a handful of museums to its name, Klaipda is by no stretch of the imagination the Florence of the Baltics. Having said that, what little there is to explore can be, especially with the aid of a local expert, a rewarding experience.

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Klaipda by bike
During the summer months at least, Klaipda, which could give Amsterdam a good run for its money as to which is the flattest, is a rather nice place to explore by bicycle. More and more hotels are offering bicycles for rent (dvirai nuoma) in the city, making the option of getting to know it on two wheels an ever-increasing temptation. Bear in mind that the citys cycle lanes often feature hordes of sleepy pedestrians and that many vehicle drivers are still unused to sharing the tarmac with cyclists and away you go. Find out more about cycling in the city and surrounding region on p.9.

Museums & Galleries

Both local and national museums and galleries in Lithuania are slowly getting dragged and kicked into the 21st century, and visiting them is an excellent way of getting to grips with what remains for most visitors a confusing and conflicting history of events. Be warned that most museums and galleries nationwide are closed at least one day a week (usually but not always a Monday) and dont turn up late in the day as many places stop selling tickets at least 30 minutes before they finally bolt the doors for the day. In general tickets remain exceedingly affordable. altkalvi 2, tel. (+370) 46 41 05 26. Established in 1993 and worth a quick look around, the citys singularly peculiar Blacksmith Museum provides both a glimpse inside the world of the smithy as well as a tantalising look into the rich ethnic and cultural past of the region. Displays include exhibits showing off the many skills involved in the craft, with a large knot of miscellaneous crosses upstairs. In the back yard are original crosses displaying a multitude of local languages, several of them now extinct. The small building at the back of the complex is a working blacksmiths workshop, where displays of the craft are given. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 5/2.50Lt. J

Blacksmith Museum (Kalvysts Muziejus) O-8,

Castle Museum (Pilies Muziejus) M-8, Pilies 4, tel. (+370) 46 41 05 27. First mentioned way back in 1252, the citys mighty castle stood on this site in its many guises for centuries until it was finally dismantled towards the end of the 19th century. This recommended museum, located inside two separate underground sections of what remains of the structure uses what little resources it has to illustrate both the history of the building and the city in general with the help of a galaxy of display cases, models in medieval costumes and the like. Of particular interest are a series of gorgeous paintings of the castle and the city in its heyday, photographs from WWII and the Soviet reconstruction of the city and an exhibit about a proposed 50km tram route thats hoped to link Klaipda with Palanga, a project most see as little more than a white elephant. Outside, a section of the castle foundations has been revealed, complete with display boards explaining how everything originally looked and what their purpose was. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 6/3Lt. J

Photo by Saulius Ruinskas

2, tel. (+370) 46 41 05 24. A fascinating little museum staffed by a lovely bunch of old ladies and offering a unique look into the unusual history of the region. The inside, more reminiscent of the innards of a large wooden sailing ship than a museum, is crammed with all manner of exhibits from archaeological models and reconstructions to a collection of eerie photographs depicting a wartime city awash with Swastikas hanging from every available building. Also find examples of local historical dress, coins, newspapers and other fascinating little bits and pieces. With regrettably little English, a guided tour of the place is highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 5/2.50Lt. J

History Museum of Lithuania Minor (Maosios Lietuvos Istorijos Muziejus) N-7, Didioji Vandens

Tourist information
Turgaus 7, tel. (+370) 46 41 21 86, tic@klaiped ainfo.lt, www.klaipedainfo.lt. The local tourist information people can sell you a map, arrange a guided tour, find you a bed for the night and sell you a ticket if youre planning on leaving town. English and German spoken. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00 (June 1 - August 31). Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun (October and April). Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun (Sep tember, November - March, May). J

Klaipda Tourist Information Centre N-7,

41 04 13. Klaipdas bizarre Timepiece Museum offers no clues as to just exactly what its doing here (there are no connections between the city and makers of either clocks or watches) although it somehow creates the impression that Klaipda wouldnt really be Klaipda without it. Housed on two floors in a rather grand old building, the museum celebrates the history of keeping time from the Chinese water clock through to the latest atomic variations on the theme. A4 sheets in English have been thoughtfully provided for those whod like to know more about the subject. The garden at the back of the building contains a rather splendid sundial and hosts the occasional music concert. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3Lt. J

Klaipda Timepiece Museum (Klaipdos Laikrodi Muziejus) N-5, Liep 12, tel. (+370) 46

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WHAT TO SEE
P. Domaitis Gallery (P. Domaiio Galerija) P-4,
Liep 33, tel. (+370) 46 41 04 12. Memel-born artist Franz Domscheit (1880-1965) left the city at 27, was famously exhibited in the 1937 Degenerate Art exhibition organised by the Nazis in Munich and finally fled to South Africa with his wife where he died at the age of 85. Also known by the Lithuanian rendition of his name, Pranas Domaitis, which he chose to use after his brush with Hitler, this combined gallery and museum contains the largest single collection of his works in the world. Situated on two floors, the gallery contains much more than just his work. On the ground floor are a proactive section devoted to art produced by children as well as the works of other like-minded artists of the time and, somewhat strangely, a large number of period chairs. The upstairs galleries are generally given over to temporary shows by artists from both home and abroad. QOpen 12:00 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3Lt. J

Lithuanian Sea Museum C-3, Smiltyns 3, tel. (+370) 46 49 22 50, www.muziejus. lt. The only museum of its kind in the entire Baltic region, the Lithuanian Sea Museum stretches along the eastern shoreline of the northern tip of the Curonian Spit and takes in more than just a bunch of fish and performing aquatic animals inside an old fortress dating from the 19th century. Surplus to the familiar sight of fish-laden aquaria, cute little penguins, performing sea lions and (currently not on show at the time of going to press) dolphins are a few other sensations including three Soviet-era trawlers and a recreated traditional fishing village. An absolute must for visitors with children in tow, the exhibits are all presented in English as well as Lithuanian and the whole affair is, assuming youre not an animal rights campaigner, rather good fun and extremely educational. To get there, take the ferry across to Smiltyn and turn right to either walk the rest of the way (not recommended for people without a strong constitution) or hop on either the ridiculous petrol-driven train or travel in style by horse and buggy. Q Open 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri (October - April). Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue (May and September). Open 10:30 - 18:30. Closed Mon (June - August). Admission 12/6Lt (September May); 15/7Lt (June - August).

Mokykla), tel. (+370) 671 098 96/(+370) 645 264 71. The life and adventures of Viktoras Varnas are the stuff of legend found only in the annals of Soviet-related history. Born before the war into a land-owning Lithuanian family, the entire Varnas clan went on to change their identities during the Stalin period, thus avoiding Siberian exile and beginning, for Viktoras anyway, an extremely odd existence. Going under the assumed name of Adolfas Karinskas until 1961, Varnas worked in a number of teaching jobs, spending his long holidays cycling around vast areas of the USSR, living on biscuits and lemonade and collecting over 15,000 religious icons, old telephones, pebbles picked up on beaches, flags, badges and other detritus that eventually found their way inside this

Viktoras Varnas Museum (Viktoro Varno Muziejus) L-4, S. Daukanto 5 (Maksimo Gorkio Vidurin

Lithuanian Sea Museum (Lietuvos Jr Muziejus)

Industrial tourism
vyturys P-7, Kli Vart 7, tel. (+370) 46 41 21 86. Established in 1784 and the oldest brewery on contemporary Lithuanian territory, the large vyturys (Lighthouse) building at the southern end of Old Town offer tours in English. The two-hour tour takes visitors around the brewery, showing how the beer is made and offering several opportunities to drink whats regarded by many as some of the best beers in the country. Tours are offered for groups of five to 50 people and should be booked at the Tourist Information Centre.

Nature Protection Museum (Gamtos Apsaugos Muziejus) N-3, S. Daukanto 31, tel. (+370) 46 41 27

18. Located at the top of a flight of metal stairs in a rather incongruous-looking shed overlooking a charming little garden hidden away down an alleyway to the left of the large Vytauto Didiojo Gimnazija building, this very Lithuanian experience is of interest to specialists and possibly nobody else. Made up of a small collection of plants, stuffed animals, fossils and shells from the region as well as some related postage stamps, visits need to be booked in advance and require the assistance of an interpreter. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Open by appointment only. Admission free. J

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strange little museum. Still alive, with the help of a translator and with enough advance warning Varnas will happily show visitors around the museum and recount some of his many exploits. Lithuania still lacks a museum of everyday life during the Soviet period, although this gem more than makes up for it. Q Open 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun. Call in advance. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Photographs following the strange story of the churchs existence line the walls of the steps to the top. By far the most interesting fact about this church is that it was one of only two built in the country (the other is in venionliai) during the Soviet period. Q Mass 08:00, 18:00, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 12:00, 18:00.

Churches
O-6, Pylimo 2, tel. (+370) 46 31 44 73. Once a prominent arrow jutting out over the roofs of Old Town, all that remains of the original 75-metre tower is a collection of faded memories and equally faded black and white photographs. Dating back to 1696, the original Lutheran church that stood here was damaged during WWII and thoughtfully pulled down by the Soviets. A new church, which is really little more than a house with the same name, carries on the work of its namesake. Q Mass Sun 10:00. J

Places of interest
some time shortly after WWII and re-sanctified on August 28, 1998, this strangely pleasant and atmospheric place amidst cedar trees at the far end of the park that starts just north of the railway bridge on H. Manto was used for the burial of soldiers in the German army during both World Wars. With the exception of a few salvaged and mostly broken headstones whose names evoke an entire lost community (technically these soldiers were defenders rather than invaders), all of the memorials are modern, marking the spots where graves were known to have originally existed. Actually two separate areas, a memorial complete with photographs and fresh flowers can be found in the cemeterys northern-most section. N-2, S. Nries 4, tel. (+370) 46 39 00 00. A small plaque outside the Lithuanian Customs building marks the spot where the KGB once had their headquarters in Klaipda. Not quite up to the standards of its counterpart in the capital, the KGB Memorial Room features a simple 12-metre square former prison cell complete with a bed and little else where prisoners were once kept. To give them time to find somebody to get the key and open up its advised to telephone in advance. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. J

St. Johns Church (Klaipdos v. Jono Banyia)

German Soldiers Cemetery (Vokiei Kari Kapins)H. Manto / P. Lideikio. Destroyed presumably

Taikos Karaliens Banyia) H-5, Rumpiks 6a, tel. (+370) 46 41 01 20. Using private funds this Sovietera house of worship was built at the start of Khrushchevs Thaw in the late 1950s. Due to open on August 15, 1960 a change in attitude in Moscow saw the bell tower destroyed and the building converted into a concert hall. After the earth-shattering events of October 1988, the building was returned to the Catholic Church and the first Mass celebrated on November 25 of the same year. The cornerstone of the citys Catholic community, the interior is fairly unremarkable. The main point of interest is the post-Soviet 70-metre bell tower, which is open to the public by prior arrangement and that affords a truly splendid 360 view of the city and beyond. klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

St. Marys Queen of Peace Church (v. Marijos

KGB Memorial Room (KGB Memorialin Kamera)

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WHAT TO SEE
Monuments
Aikt. The original girl standing in front of the Drama Theatre was dedicated to the German poet Simon Dach (1605-1659) and was erected in 1912 by the Berlin sculptor Alfred Kune. The poor lass disappeared at some unknown time during World War II, possibly with the help of the Nazis (who were supposedly upset that she had her back turned towards a ranting Fhrer, shouting at the masses from the theatre balcony in 1939), or possibly courtesy of the Soviets (who stole just about every thing that wasnt nailed down during their unwelcome stay in the country). In any event, a replacement was constructed from old photographs in 1990, and the girl, of whom Dach wrote a famous folk song, is now back where she belongs. J

nnchen von Tarau (Taravos Anik) N-7, Teatro

Klaipda for kids

New cities can be daunting even for the most seasoned of travellers, not to mention people visiting with children. If youre cheerfully lumbered with one or more little persons when in town and you need some options for occupying them, we recommend the following five very different distractions. The Lithuanian Sea Museum (see p.32) offers lots of things to keep the kids amused, and also has the added bonus of requiring a trip on a boat to visit. If the weathers good, Trinyiai Park is a great place to let children run off some steam. The lake in the middle is a popular place for ducks, so be sure to take some bread along to feed them. If the weathers not-so good, Akropolis (see p.50) features both an ice-skating rink and Svajoni Miestas, a great place for pre-school children and complete with brightly coloured bouncy walls and floors and lots of things to do. Although performances take place in Lithuanian the excellent Klaipda Puppet Theatre (see p.14) is definitely worth further investigation, and finally, if youve got a car or dont mind a challenging bicycle trip up the coast, the recommended Gamtos Perlas (see p.16) offers special 30-minute safaris where its possible to spot among other creatures wild boars and ostriches. Enjoy.

Atmintis (Memory) N-5, Atgimimo Aikt. Late in the

evening on March 2, 1989 the Lithuanian painter and antiques restorer Vytautas Viiulis (1951-1989) approached this spot, which at the time was the site of the citys statue of Lenin, and set fire to himself, dying from his injuries the following day. Reportedly carrying a Lithuanian flag with him, the martyred Viiulis is remembered with this small plinth. J

O-1, Outside the Train Station. Commemorating the repatriated Germans who fled to Germany at the end of WWII, this charming little monument of a mother and her teddy bear-clutching infant was unveiled during the Sea Festival in 2002. A wonderfully observed work of art, take a look at the detail including the ragged buttons on the mothers coat.

Homeland Farewell (Atsisveikinimas su Tvyne)

Martynas Mavydas M-2, Lietuvinink Aikt. Unveiled

in 1997 and the work of R. Midvikis, this rather stern-looking monument honours the man credited with writing the first book published in the Lithuanian language, the 1547 Catechisms. Mathematicians will quickly spot that the statue was placed here to celebrate the 450th anniversary of the book. The square in which it stands is now very popular with the citys teenage skateboarding community. J

Park. Its somewhat perplexing that post-independent Lithuania banned both the Communist Party and Soviet symbols with such gusto and yet left a great big thing like this lying around for everyone to see. Unveiled in 1980 to celebrate the liberation of Klaipda by the Red Army on January 28, 1945, these splendid military fellows, one sailor and two soldiers, mark the spot where 700 Soviet soldiers were buried. The monument is part of a larger ensemble including a now long extinguished eternal flame and a list of those who died during the capturing of the city. Find it in the northwest corner of the park, close to the road. Every year on May 9, the official Victory Day celebrating Russias final defeat over Nazi Germany, locals come to the memorial and cover the entire area with an astonishing number of flowers. If youre in town at this time, a trip to take a look is highly recommended.

Monument to the Port Liberators (Paminklas Uostamiesio Ivaduotojams) O-3, Sculpture

Neringa P-7, Kli Vart 7. Outside the vyturys brew-

ery, the curious statue of the mythical Neringa holding two ships on her shoulders was created by the Lithuanian artist Dalia Matulait (b. 1942) and represents the power of a woman. Part of an intended trilogy of works, the second piece, Egl Mother of the Trees (Egl Medi Motina) never got off the drawing board, although the final work, The Twelve Brothers (Dvylika Broli) did, and can be found in the Sculpture Park (see Parks & Gardens).

Parks & Gardens

(+370) 46 39 88 33, www.ku.lt/botanikos-sodas. Legend has it that the monarchs of the Prussian and Russian empires Frederic Wilhelm III (1770-1840) and Alexander I (1777-1825), whose territories met a few kilometres north of here just south of Palanga, came together to discuss international affairs on this very spot in a valley by the Dan river way back in 1802. An exceedingly rare royal occurrence, the event was commemorated as a tribute

Klaipda University Botanical Garden (Klaipdos Universiteto Botanikos Sodas) Kretingos 92, tel.

Uostamiesio ivaduotojams (To the Port Liberators). Sculpture by Rimantas Daugintis, 1980.

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to the friendship the meeting spawned by the founding of a park which since 1993 has been in the hands of the citys university. Covering almost 10 hectares, the park is comprised of a collection of around 3,000 annual and perennial species organised into several groups as well as large rock garden. The park is located about 3km north along Kretingos and can be walked on a good day in about 30 minutes. A taxi will set you back around 10Lt for a one-way trip. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Open 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00 (April 1 - October 31). Open 08:00 - 16:30, Fri 08:00 - 15:30 (November 1 - March 31). Admission 4/2Lt.

Jewish Klaipda
Jews were first mentioned as living in the city in 1567, although much the same as with the remarkably similar city of Gdask, the Jews never made an enormous impact on Klaipda as they did in the rest of the region. By the time the Germans reoccupied the city in March 1939 some 8,000 Jews had already fled, leaving a small population behind who met their fate as is only too well known. An estimated 200 or so Jews live in Klaipda today.

Sculpture Park (Skulptr Parkas) O/P-3. On the site of the citys second main cemetery that opened in 1820 and that was destroyed by the Soviets in 1977, this quirky 10-hectare site contains around 180 works of art by 54 sculptors as well as several memorials and a former chapel that now functions as a Russian Orthodox church. The L-shaped park, somewhat strangely named after a historical author and not an artist, is a popular place for strolling all year round. J Trinyiai Park (Trinyi Parkas) I-4/5. Shrouded in historical mystery, this large green space less than a kilometre east of Old Town was supposedly home to three manor houses in the eighteenth century. Cut in two by a winding, snake-like lake popular with local anglers for its copious amounts of bream, roach, perch and pike, during the summer Trinyiai Park is a fabulous green oasis, speckled with lime, poplar and ash trees, winding paths and the occasional piece of public art. Flat as a pancake and hidden away from the nearby busy streets, the park is a great place for cycling, walks and picnics during the summer. klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

Jewish Cemetery (yd Kapins) P-8, Sinagog.

In the grounds of the citys Jewish Community Centre, a plaque by the entrance reminds visitors that a Jewish cemetery stood here until 1939. With the exception of one or two gravestones, nothing remains except for a few salvaged stones set in the wall to the west of the old cemetery (pictured). J

37 58. A small, modern building in the grounds of the citys former Jewish Cemetery that also houses the citys only surviving synagogue. This is the place in town to visit if you want to know more about the citys Jewish heritage. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Jewish Community Centre (Chabad Lubavitch Baismenachem) P-8, ied 3, tel. (+370) 46 49

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NIDA
The principal settlement on the Lithuanian half of the Unesco-protected Curonian Spit, the small fishing village of Nida (or Nidden as it was and still is known as to German speakers) some 50km south of Klaipda on the edge of Curonian Lagoon is worthy of at least a day trip if not considerably more. The celebrated home for two summers of the author Thomas Mann, Nidas affluent feel and Germanic appearance are so unlike the rest of Lithuania that visiting as part of a bigger trip to the country is like a holiday within a holiday. With well under 2,000 permanent residents, the population balloons during the short tourist season, but, unlike its irksome brother Palanga attracts a quieter crowd looking for a more leisurely pace of life. The perfect springboard for countless adventures further afield on the spit, Nida offers a superb experience and is an essential part of any trip along the Baltic coastline.

By car
Take the boat from the Second Ferry Terminal and follow the signs once youre on the other side of the water. The journey is just under 50km along a narrow winding road through the forested dunes. Inside a national park, youll need to pay to get in at the checkpoint a few kilometres south of the ferry port. If youre travelling in a group, taking a taxi is an option. They often park up on the Smiltyn side of the water and cost somewhere in the region of 100Lt plus the entrance fee to the park depending on your negotiation skills.

Where to stay
Nida boasts a range of accommodation options from fairly decent hotels to a cabin with a bed near the beach. Added to this, everybody with a centimetre to spare rents out rooms, most of which arent advertised but can be easily found when you arrive. Look for the nuoma (for rent) signs posted around the village or ask the people at the Nida Culture & Tourism Information Centre for a recommendation. Prices are a little bit higher than in most destinations in Lithuania, especially during the summer season.

Arriving
Theres only one road to Nida. Travel its winding 50km path from Smiltyn by car or bus or peddle your bicycle along the cycle track all the way to the resort. Nida is also reachable from Kaliningrad plus there are a couple of direct daily buses during the summer from Klaipda. Inside a protected national park, a small fee is required to enter, which is included in the price of the ticket if youre arriving by bus but that needs to be paid if entering by any other means. For a journey with a difference, take the water taxi to Nida. See www.vandenstaxi.lt for more information.

Upmarket
Litorina A-1, Smiltyns 19, tel. (+370) 469 525 28, litorina@litorina-dubingiai.lt, www.litorina-dubingiai.lt. Not the cheapest option around, and not exactly in the centre of the action, however if you do decide to part with the money they want youll find that it goes a fairly long way. The rooms are bright and cheerful and finally come with the long awaited addition of internet connections, each having its own balcony, television and bathroom. Extras are aplenty, among them sauna, outdoor hard court tennis and bicycle rental. Q19 rooms (140 - 600Lt). Breakfast not included. PHALKW hhhh

By bus
To get to Nida by bus from Klaipda, take one of the direct summer services or the Smiltyn ferry from the First Ferry Terminal. Buses leave Smiltyn, from where the ferry docks, regularly during the summer and a little less frequently out of season. The price at the time of writing for the 60-minute journey was about 11Lt. The ferry only takes foot passengers and cyclists. The crossing currently costs 1.45Lt for the trip across. Getting to town Youre in it. Just about everything is within walking distance. If you need a taxi and there isnt one outside the station, go across the road to the Tourist Information Centre and ask them to call one. If you need cash, find a couple of ATMs directly across the street from the bus station. A small building close to the waters edge in the centre of the village, find toilets (1.50Lt), a drinks machine and ticket office all inside one room. The bus station also serves as a private tourist information centre and can help with everything from finding a room to organising fishing trips. QOpen 07:45 - 20:00. J

Mid-range
Nerija B-2, Pamario 13, tel. (+370) 682 389 48, fax
(+370) 469 511 28, info@neringahotels.lt, www.neringahotels.lt. A range of singles, doubles and apartments complete with such little luxuries as heated bathrooms and a jaunty sloping roof that prices rocket through during the high season, the atmosphere here is helped enormously by nearby basketball and volleyball courts. If you want to be looked after and are prepared to spend that little bit extra when the sun is shining, this place is a reasonably safe option. Q57 rooms (130 - 380Lt). Breakfast not included. PHUKW hhh

Bus Station B-2, Nagli 18e, tel. (+370) 469 528 59.

Nidus B-1, G. D. Kuverto 15, tel. (+370) 469 520 01,

Tourist information
visitneringa.com. Opposite the bus station in the centre of the village, find plenty of information in English, plus advice on places to stay as well as more information on things to see and do whilst on the Curonian Spit. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Sun 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 18:00 (June 1 - August 31). Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun (September 1 - May 31). JW

Nida Culture & Tourism Information Centre (Nidos Kultros ir Turizmo Informacijos Cen tras) B-2, Taikos 4, tel. (+370) 469 523 45, www.

fax (+370) 469 500 16, info@nidus.lt, www.nidus.lt. Mid-way between the sea and lagoon, this is a good option for those who wont be carrying plastic chairs, drinks bottles, inflatable hippopotamuses, melting ice-creams and screaming children to the beach and back every 30 minutes. Its all a bit more refined than that. Theres a nifty blue and tan naval theme throughout the swish well appointed rooms, of which each comes with a small balcony. Q26 rooms (210 - 590Lt). THAR6LKDXW hhh

Nidos Smilt A-2, Skruzdyns 2, tel. (+370) 469 522 21, www.smilte.lt. Made up of three different villas on one complex, the Vaiva, Svajon and Kregdut, Nidos Smilt offers a range of accommodation options from basic rooms to apartments. Expensive during the summer season although offering a good standard of service, the hotel is at pains to remind visitors that it once provided shelter to a number of visiting Expressionist painters who paid for their board in return for the occasional canvas. Q88 rooms (160 - 460Lt). PAKW hhh klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

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NIDA
Budget
Jrat B-2, Pamario 3, tel. (+370) 469 523 00, info@
hotel-jurate.lt, www.hotel-jurate.lt. A central location would be the main reason for staying here, because if nothing else this large and rather unattractive building simply doesnt fit in with the surroundings. Although it looks better on the inside than it does on the outside, the rooms are nothing to write home about. Excellent if youre arriving with a bus full of friends. Q114 rooms (115 - 335Lt). Breakfast not included. HAULKW hh

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Guesthouses
Miko Namas B-2, Pamario 11, tel. (+370) 469 522
90, info@miskonamas.com, www.miskonamas.com. A gorgeous cottage reminiscent of a provincial 1970s German hotel on the inside, find a superb choice of rooms and apartments to suit all tastes and budgets. More or less in the centre and close to the lagoon, all guests get the benefit of wireless internet, satellite television and even bicycle rental. Theres also a self-contained apartment for the ultimate self-catering experience. Q7 rooms (145 - 330Lt). Breakfast not included. LW

A spit in the ocean

Nida sits half-way down the Curonian Spit, a 98 kilometrelong, Unesco-protected slither of banana-shaped sand stretching from Kaliningrads Sambian Peninsula in the south all the way to, but not quite touching, Klaipda. Separating the Curonian Lagoon from the Baltic Sea, the spit covers an area of 180 square kilometres and is home to some of the highest drifting sand dunes in Europe, which at times can reach up to 60m in height. The Lithuanian part of the spit covers about half its total length and includes the settlements of Alksnyn, Smiltyn, Juodkrant, Nida, Pervalka and Preila, of which the latter four make up the municipality of Neringa, the smallest municipality in Lithuania and the only one named after a figure from ancient mythology and not an actual town. If youre travelling to Nida from Klaipda or are thinking about seeing more than just Nida when visiting, there are a number of recommended things to see and do whilst in the area. Heading south soon after disembarking from the ferry, keep an eye out to the left of the road for a monument to fallen Red Army soldiers of 32nd division, 113th regiment who lost their lives here during the early days of the East Prussian Offensive in January 1945. A classic Soviet-era sculpture, the 30-tonne stone monument, carved from rock taken from the Curonian Lagoon, was unveiled in 1967. The tiny village of Preila on the eastern shore of the Curonian Spit is unremarkable with perhaps the exception of a small ethnographic cemetery where the villages last true Curonians lay at rest. In the centre of the village, although nowhere near as impressive as its counterpart in Anaiiai, the well-tended graves, some of them wooden and dating back well over a century, offer an insight into the former multi-ethnic makeup of the area. Both Nida and Juodkrant lie inside the Curonian Spit National Park, set up in 1991 to protect the flora and fauna of the region. About a quarter

Photo by Nathan Greenhalgh of the park is forested, there are some 960 plant species, just under 40 mammals including elk, wild boar, otters and badgers, 200 kinds of bird, eight amphibians, over 460 types of butterfly and countless bugs and beetles. Among the 40 or so types of fish living on either side of the spit are bream, eel, cod, Baltic herring and plaice. Meat-eaters should try some of the smoked fish specialities found for sale almost everywhere, whilst those who prefer to see wildlife in its natural habitat should take advantage of the manifold opportunities to view it in the area. As well as being home to several protected species, the spit itself is under threat. Accordingly, much of its territory is off limits to visitors, with camping only allowed at the designated site in Nida. Of the spits human population, people have been living in the area for thousands of years. Notable inhabitants include the Sambians and Curonians, two long-since vanished Baltic tribes whose names remain as traces in the landscape on both the Russian and Lithuanian side of the border. Its German heritage comes from the Teutonic Knights who invaded the area in the 13th century. The spits peculiar ethnic history is as complicated as it is on the mainland, and dont let the textbooks fool you into thinking otherwise. Despite the official fact that the Germans were sent packing at the end of WWII, many of the spits inhabitants speak German fluently and consider themselves natives of the region who just so happen to live within the borders of Lithuania and who continue to live lives connected to the landscape as they have done for hundreds of years. With a bracing coastline and an inland body of water thats known to freeze over during the winter, the Curonian Spit is a unique feature of Lithuania that deserves much more than a quick daytrip from Klaipda. For more information on the spit, see the excellent website at www.nerija.lt.

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NIDA
Vasara A-1, G. D. Kuverto 8-4, tel. (+370) 699 339 10/
(+370) 5 273 09 91, ra@ra.lt, www.vasara.org. Theyve named all the rooms after local attractions like The Sea and The Dunes, and you can even stay in The Forest without having to dig a hole after dinner. While its not exactly the Ritz, the fresh and fun little decorative touches and attention to detail make this a pleasant place to spend your holiday. Its located midway between the lagoon and sea beaches, and its a bit of a walk to either. Added bonuses include wireless internet connections and DVD players. Q6 rooms (110 315Lt). Breakfast not available. W

Vila Elvyra A-2, Purvyns 2, tel. (+370) 620 640 60, www.vilaelvyra.priejuros.lt. Ten rooms with either double or twin beds inside a large traditional building thats been modernised with more than just a touch of artistry, all featuring satellite television, refrigerators and en suite bathrooms. The facilities are more basic than many similar places for a better price but there are a few bonuses including good views of the lagoon and lots of space. Breakfast isnt included in the price but can be ordered separately. Q9 rooms (150 - 350Lt). Breakfast not included. LBW
39, www.vilasimona.ot.lt. A modern building in the centre of the village resembling a traditional fishermans cottage, the interior of Villa Simona actually resembles something straight from the 1970s. Facilities are ample, with extra sofas and refrigerators provided in every room for budget travellers. Q5 rooms (150 - 240Lt). Breakfast not included. PLW

Vila Simona B-1, Pamario 21b, tel. (+370) 688 358

Sport, Leisure & Culture

Bicycles etc.
If you havent brought your own set of human-powered wheels onto the Curonian Spit, fear not, just about every hotel and street corner during the summer season comes with the option to rent something from rollerblades to bicycles for anything from an hour to as long as you plan to stay. Prices are fairly low, and, if you want to get the most of the area without resorting to an internal combustion engine, well worth the bother. A passport or other form of ID that includes a photograph is essential when renting any of the above.

Camping
Nidos Kempingas (Nida Camping) C-1, Taikos 45a, tel. (+370) 682 411 50, info@kempingas.lt, www.kempingas.lt. Theres actually a full range of accommodation offered here, ranging from a patch of dirt on which you can stick a tent to some gorgeous apartments with kitchenettes, satellite television and modern bathrooms. Communal facilities for campers include toilets, showers, a kitchen and laundry. Theres also a childrens playground and good security to ensure that nothing gets stolen when youre slumming it by the water. Q10 rooms (250 - 490Lt). There is a complicated pricing scheme with different prices for tents, cars, camper vans, caravans and the people in them. The minimum is 39Lt per night for a person in a tent who turns up on a bicycle out of season. LKW

Boat trips

There are numerous possibilities to mess about on the lagoon whilst in Nida during the summer. Ask around town, or look for signs advertising everything from water bicycles to fishing trips. Two larger vessels moored at the main harbour are also worth further investigation. Nidas (tel. +370 698 313 78) is a medium sized motor cruiser taking regular trips across the lagoon to the small settlement of Ming on the other side and is also available for private functions. The impressive-looking Lana (tel. +370 620 302 13) is a beautiful, two-masted sailing ship ploughing regular trips around the lagoon and further afield.

Apartments
03, valentina@inkarokaimas.lt, www.inkarokaimas.lt. A choice of really nice rooms and apartments with separate entrances in a classic old fishermans cottage right on the waters edge. Facilities run the range from en suite facilities to satellite television to a few options with their own kitchens. Good value and a superb location. Q3 rooms (135 - 290Lt). J6LW

Inkaro Kaimas B-2, Nagli 26, tel. (+370) 698 850

Culture
Nida Art Colony (Nidos Meno Kolonija) C-1,
Taikos 43, tel. (+370) 469 203 70/(+370) 620 343 44, www.nidacolony.lt. Part of the Vilnius Art Academy, this relatively new centre operates both as a place for students to retreat to and work in quiet isolation as well as a location for artists in residence from home and abroad. Also organising the occasional exhibition, the centre continues a long tradition of art colonies in the village and simply deserves a mention. HAUEBW

Nidos Rojus B-2, Nagli 25-2, tel. (+370) 698 343 58, nidosrojus@gmail.com, www.nidosrojus.lt. Three fantastic apartments inside a classic wooden fishermans cottage right in the centre of the town ranging from 25 to 80 square metres in size. All come with kitchens, en suite bathrooms, laundry facilities and free parking. Even at the height of the tourist season prices are more than affordable. One of the best deals in town at the moment. Q3 rooms (100 - 500Lt). JLBW

Where to eat
Nida is represented by a small selection of bars and restaurants aimed predominantly but not exclusively at the summer tourist market. When visiting the village its considered the done thing to sample some of the fish, which is more often than not smoked as is the local fashion, and all of it taken from the local waters. The nightlife isnt up to the standards as witnessed in Palanga, but thats not why most people visit. Bars and clubs spring up willy-nilly during the high season, and asking the locals whats on offer is the best way to find out whats going on after dark.

Dovydas Stonkus

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Lithuanian
Eerin C-2, Nagli 2, tel. (+370) 687 558 30, www.
eserine.lt. The old, medieval-looking fish shacks getting a bit rundown and tired, but because its a tourist trap kind of place, and people only go inside when they need to pee, they get away with it. The food is quite good if not great value, but youre paying for the best spot in town if not Lithuania. Truly, the outside section right on the waters edge is extremely hard to beat. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. 30Lt. PABS

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Kuris B-2, Nagli 29, tel. (+370) 469 528 04. Operating throughout the year yet still managing to retain a certain tourist atmosphere, the staff-diner ratio could be better but if youre prepared to wait a bit you wont be disappointed. The menu runs the length and breadth of cuisine from classic Lithuanian dishes to local smoked fish to a handful of ambitious international dishes. Exceptionally good value, highly recommended are the altibariai, which is served with crispy roasted potatoes and the bulviniai blynai, potato pancakes of mammoth proportions served with a garlic-laden sauce that are dangerously moreish considering the amount you get. The restaurant also does towers of beer, for fun evenings getting wasted without having to interfere with the waitresses. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. 18Lt. PTAUBS
next to the bus station, this cunningly placed folk-themed adventure doesnt have to work too hard to pull the punters in. The menu is hit and miss with the local fish dishes being the exception. Good for a snack whilst waiting to depart, the garden is a great place to watch the world go by. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 25Lt. JABS

Thomas Mann Memorial Museum treat close to the edge of the lagoon in the centre of town. Specialising in international nouvelle cuisine with plenty of twists, no longer do visitors have to suffer an endless cavalcade of pork chops but can also experience the finer points of Lithuanian dining. It may not be in keeping with local tradition, but its a very welcome addition all the same. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. 24Lt. TJ6BSW

Pair B-2, Nagli 20, tel. (+370) 698 415 38. Found

Sena Sodyba B-2, Nagli 6-2, tel. (+370) 652 123 45, www.senasodyba.lt. This is so much like dropping over to a friends place for a barbeque that youll feel like you ought to take flowers or cakes for the hosts. The food has a fresh, simple home-cooked quality, is reasonably priced, and despite the feel-at-home atmosphere, you dont have to do your own dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 20Lt. PJAB

Kolibris B-2, Nagli 14a, tel. (+370) 469 525 57. One

Chinese
wasnt that long ago that getting something to eat in Nida that wasnt smoked fish, or pork, or pizza, was impossible. Now though it seems that every new place that opens is offering something slightly more exotic than before, as is the case with Ju Binlou, a fine Chinese restaurant two minutes from the centre and featuring not only decent Chinese food but (gasp) friendly staff to boot. To top it all they even put on the occasional karaoke evening. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. 22Lt. TABSW

Ju Binlou C-1, Taikos 13, tel. (+370) 686 105 36. It

of a clutch of similar restaurants grouped close to the main harbour, Kolibris gloomy interior should be avoided at all costs in favour of a sheltered terrace thats extremely accommodating on days when the wind and rain make an appearance. The altibariai is a particularly good way to start a meal here, although it should be pointed out that the main offerings, which as one would expect for a Nida restaurant feature little beyond variations on the grilled meat and smoked fish theme, are designed to fill a hole rather than turn you into a repeat visitor. Worth a visit for the bizarre tap in the shared toilet alone. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00. 22Lt. TJAEBS

Laum B-2, Pamario 24, tel. (+370) 469 523 35, www.

Fish
Senasis Uostas B-2, Nagli 29, tel. (+370) 699 389 80. This pleasant little place is ideal for anyone who prefers a view of a car park over one of the lagoon, or anyone who simply wants decent fish at reasonable prices. Theres also a few other meat-based dishes, plenty of salads and a few local dishes on offer. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. 30Lt. ABS

nidospastoge.com. One of two lagoon-side restaurants next to each other and owned by the same people, Laum is the closer of the pair to the edge of the water and therefore gets our vote. The interior could hardly be called an inspiration, but the terrace on a sunny day when theres lots of people out and about is a must. Service is competent if a little stern and the meat-heavy menu is reminiscent of the stuff they churn up in an Austrian restaurant by the side of the motorway, which if youve never had the pleasure is filling, affordable and perfectly edible. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. 26Lt. TJAVBSW

International
Kitchen Nida B-2, Pamario 1/31, tel. (+370) 699
010 92, www.inthekitchen.lt. Its becoming increasingly popular for quality restaurants in the capital to open summer venues in both Nida and Palanga, the latest of which is this

00, www.neringaonline.lt. Reassuringly pricey dining in a choice of two posh rooms at the far southern end of town, this is probably the most romantic place to feast in the village assuming its not overflowing with a busload of Germans. The menu offers plenty of good-looking options that arent always as good as they appear, but for class the place is certainly a winner. Note that the building is also home to an equally swanky guesthouse. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. 35Lt. PAULEBSW

Nidos Seklyia C-2, Lotmikio 1, tel. (+370) 469 500

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NIDA
What to see
The spectacular natural sights to be found in and around Nida are reason enough to make the journey to the Curonian Spit, although this is by no means the end of the cultural road. The town also contains several sights of interest that should be visited, including two interesting churches and a handful of charming little museums.

Museums & Galleries

Amber Gallery (Gintaro Galerija) B-2, Pamario 20, tel. (+370) 469 525 73, www.ambergallery.lt. A wonderful combined museum, shop and gallery featuring amber in all its forms and colours, including some lovely pieces of jewellery for sale and the usual quota of pieces of the stuff full of petrified insects. The staff know their stuff here, and despite the prices being higher than youll find in most other places, youre guaranteed to get a good, honest deal. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00 (May, September, October), 09:00 - 20:00 (June - August). Closed (November - April). Admission 4/2Lt. Ethnographic Fishermans Museum (vejo Etnografin Sodyba) C-2, Nagli 4, tel. (+370) 469

523 72. A beautiful old wooden fishermans cottage restored to its traditional appearance both inside and out as it was in the 19th century, this small yet evocative museum is crammed full of relics and the tools of the fishing trade from the late 19th and early 20th century. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 2/1Lt.

Herman Blode Museum (Hermano Blods Muziejus) A-2, Skruzdyns 2, tel. (+370) 469 522 21,
Evangelical-Lutheran Church

Pizza
ili Pica B-2, Nagli 16, tel. (+370) 682 503 00, www. cili.lt. Lithuanias favourite pizza chains Nida operation can be found at the end of the harbour next to where the pleasure boats ply their trade. The outside terrace stops it from becoming a totally bland tourist trap, and the food, including a wide range of pizza, pasta and meat dishes, is perfectly edible. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. TAUBS

www.smilte.lt. This intriguing museum celebrates the time between 1885 and the outbreak of WWII when the hotel in which its located was a magnet for German-speaking artists of all persuasions including the obscure but recommended painters Ernst Bischoff-Culm and Hans Beppo Borschke. Partially demolished and rebuilt during the Soviet period (a period that also saw most of the original artworks kept by the hotel destroyed), the museum part of the hotel features all manner of material related to this Golden Age although it sadly lacks much of the outstanding original artwork. Opposite the Neringa History Museum, its definitely worth a look inside. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Wine
In Vino C-1, Taikos 32, tel. (+370) 655 779 97. Playing
second fiddle to its more illustrious sibling in the capital, Nidas very own In Vino sits high up on the dunes and affords a splendid if not breathtakingly beautiful view to take in whilst sampling some of the wines on offer. The exception rather than the rule in Nida, the interior provides scruffy sophistication with offers chalked up on the blackboard and a mixture of locals and visitors sat around in a state of mild inebriation. Recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. ABSW

322 55. Wine bars in Lithuania tend to operate on the assumption that wine is associated with class rather than is something to be savoured and this new outfit is no different to the majority. Although the wine on offer is impressive, the main draw here is the location, sat on top of the large building in the harbour and affording wonderful views of the lagoon and the dunes. An excellent choice for a drink or two on a balmy Baltic evening. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. JAEBSW

Prieplaukos Vynin B-2, Nagli 16, tel. (+370) 678

The quintessential village museum, this small space close to the centre of town may lack the bells and whistles of modernity but is still worth the price of a Mars Bar to have a look inside. Items on display in the three rooms include extraordinary amber figures dating from the Stone Age and dug up during archaeological excavations just south of Nida, a glorious collection of articles relating to local fishing including a model of a man holding a large plank of wood, still used during the winter when its pushed through a hole in the ice and hit to attract the fish and a grisly display celebrating the no-longer practised local custom of crow-catching. During times of hardship, crows were caught in nets before being killed by biting them on the neck and eaten. Rather amusingly, the display of photographs in the right-hand hall includes a local scene dating from the 18th century. We assume that not all of the information on display is this erroneous. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 2/1Lt.

Neringa History Museum (Neringos Istorijos Muziejus) A-2, Pamario 53, tel. (+370) 469 511 62.

Thomas Mann Memorial Museum (Thomo Manno Memorialinis Muziejus) A-2, Skruzdyns 17, tel.

(+370) 469 522 60, www.mann.lt. The Nobel Prizewinning German author of Death in Venice, Doctor Faustus

Klaipda In Your Pocket

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NIDA
and scores of other novels, short stories and essays, Thomas Mann (1875-1955) spent the summers of 1930 and 1931 in Nida, and this is the building he had constructed in which to do it in. The cottage, which overlooks the lagoon, is now a museum, and many of the rooms have been given over to exhibits charting the mans fascinating life both here and abroad. Unfortunately everything is in Lithuanian and German only, so unless you speak one of the above languages youre going to need the help of a translator to get the best of the place. A tour of the museum with an expert offers a fascinating way to spend an hour or so whilst in Nida. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00 (June 1 - September 15). Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun (September 16 - May 31). Admission 4/2Lt. to the local fishing industry. Of most interest however are the graves in the attached ethnographic cemetery. Known in the local parlance plural as kriktai (christenings), these peculiar graves feature markers at the foot of the graves rather than the usual headstone arrangement. Using masculine-named wood for deceased males and viceversa and carved with horses heads, plants and birds, the footstones, for want of a better word, are placed thus to help the deceased rise up on Judgement Day. Q Mass Sun 10:30 (German), 12:00 (Lithuanian).

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Places of interest
Dunes (Kopos) C-1. These incredible natural lumps of
sand are as fragile as they come, and as such its strictly forbidden to walk on them. To get the best views of them take a walk through the forest at the end of Nagli, then take a left at any of the paths after youve reached the top of the hill. Alternatively, walk along the beach at the end of Nagli and climb the 159 steps for the best view of the lot.

Churches
099 67. Dominating Nidas skyline, this modern construction that gives more than a passing nod to local building traditions was consecrated on June 14, 2003. The work of local architects Riardas Kritapaviius and Algimantas Zavia, and the first Catholic church on the Curonian Spit, the building is predominantly wooden and has a rare if not unique in Lithuania thatched reed roof. The churchs vast bell came from a foundry in Poland and is engraved wi th a mi xed blessing of locall y inspired prose and Psalm 90:17 in its entirety. Q Mass 18:00 (except Mon), Sun 10:00.

Catholic Church (Nidos Marijos Krikioni Pagalbos Banyia) B-1, Taikos 17, tel. (+370) 686

Sundial (Sauls Laikrodis) C-1. The once 13 metre

sundial, now in a state of ruin after the 1995 hurricane, still contains enough detail to make out some ancient Baltic patterns, although, sat as it is at the top of the 52 metre Parnidis dune, the real reason to come here is for the breathtaking panoramic views of both the lagoon and the Baltic Sea.

Monuments
Vytautas Kernagis B-2, Bard Skverelis. The Lithuanian singer, songwriter, actor, director and television personality Vytautas Kernagis (1951-2008) is remembered in Nida with this rather charming statue of him sat on a bench strumming his guitar. The work of the Lithuanian sculptor Romas Kvintas (b. 1953), the statue is peculiar in that its not fixed and can be moved to any other bench if so desired.

616 838 33. Dating from 1888, this classic red brick Gothic beauty functioned as a museum during Soviet times and was handed back to the Church exactly a century after its construction. Inside are a relatively new organ, some fine stained glass and a lot of iconography relating

Evangelical-Lutheran Church (Nidos Evangelik Liuteron Banyia) B-2, Pamario 43, tel. (+370)

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PALANGA
or so from around 07:00 to 22:00 from the citys bus station. The 30-minute ride costs somewhere in the region of 5-8Lt. Palangas small bus station includes left luggage (bagain) for those planning on only spending the day in town. Three ATMs can be found outside the building at the Vytauto end of Kretingos. Getting to town Youre in it. If your hotel is further than walking distance, taxis can be found in and around the station. Make sure the meters running before you set off.

Bus Station (Autobus Stotis) C-2, Kretingos 1, tel. (+370) 460 533 33. Q Ticket office open 07:00 - 20:00. J

By car
Palanga is easily reached by car from Klaipda, Latvia and all points east. During the summer season the main A13 (E272) highway from Klaipda is littered with cars parked along the side of the road, all displaying signs of varying levels of complexity, and all containing variations on kambariai (rooms) or kambari nuoma (rooms for rent). If youve come unprepared you may like to stop and have a chat. Unless youre visiting out of season, parking in Palanga is a nightmare. To avoid frustration and the possibility of having your vehicle broken into, its wise to choose accommodation with guarded parking facilities.

By plane
Palangas microscopic airport is immediately north of the town on the main coast road to Latvia. Taxis can be found waiting outside the main entrance. A skilful negotiator can get to Palanga for around 20Lt, although youll almost certainly find yourself paying much more than this for the short journey.

Lithuanias favourite bucket-and-spade, kiss-me-quick destination, the countrys candyfloss capital of Palanga has over the years been of major strategic importance, no importance whatsoever, part of Latvia, and up until the middle of the 19th century and subsequent invention of the seaside holiday a small fishing village. First mentioned in 1161, contemporary Palanga functions as a year-round health resort but is celebrated more for what happens during the short summer season between June and September when the population explodes and the party never ends. Famed for its glorious sandy beaches, Palanga also offers one or two intriguing cultural diversions for those looking for something a little more highbrow than gulping down pints of lager and cavorting after teenage girls in miniskirts.

Palanga Airport Liepojos 1, tel. (+370) 460 520 20, ops@palanga-airport.lt, www.palanga-airport.lt. A few kilometres north of the town and handling flights all year round to and from Copenhagen, Oslo and Riga, with the addition of flights to and from Moscow during the summer. Find a currency exchange office, caf, ticket office and car rental kiosks inside. Buses to the airport leave from the bus station in Palanga and the journey takes about 20 minutes.

Where to stay
Palangas accommodation options cater to all tastes and budgets, from swanky hotels with bellboys to a patch of grass to pitch your tent. Those arriving in town during the high season without a booking should have a look at the Arriving by car section of this guide for information on finding a room. Ensuring youve got a place to sleep before you arrive between July and September is recommended.

Arriving
Not surprisingly for such a thriving holiday destination, summer brings with it a major increase in traffic to Palanga. Buses leave for the town from just about everywhere in the country with a population of more than six inhabitants and cars converge from as far away as Vilnius, clogging the streets and making something of a mockery of the idea that Palanga is a place to go to get away from it all. A handy trick for those who enjoy the romance of train travel and who are coming from the east is to catch one of the daily trains to Klaipda from Vilnius, get off at Kretinga and catch the regular minibuses that run between the town and the coast.

Upmarket
Gabija E-2, Vytauto 40, tel. (+370) 460 482 51, fax (+370) 460 575 91, info@gabija.lt, www.gabija.lt. A good-looking hotel on the edge of the Botanical Park and less than a five-minute walk from the sea, rooms include a choice of options from splendid standards to some refreshingly expensive suites and apartments. All rooms come with everything one would expect including good bathrooms, satellite television and free internet. Extras include modern conference facilities and a well equipped wellness centre. Q56 rooms (240 - 1,200Lt). PTHAUFLKDCW hhhh klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

By bus
During the summer, buses arrive in Palanga from just about every farmstead in the country. A popular daytime diversion from Klaipda, buses leave every 20 minutes

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Tourist information
460 488 11, www.palangatic.lt. Staffed by friendly and knowledgeable locals who can advise on everything from excursions to rooms, theres also a large selection of flyers and brochures on things to see and do in town and the surrounding area. English, German and Russian spoken. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00 (June). Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00 (July - August). Open 09:00-17:00, Sat 10:00-14:00, Closed Sun. (September - May). J

Tourist Information Centre (Turizmo Infor macijos Centras) C-2, Vytauto 94, tel. (+370)

bad news though is that the building its located in is also an exceedingly busy pizza restaurant and, worse, a nightclub. Although word on the street is that the aforementioned nightspot plans to be a little more restrained from previous years, they do also stress that its still possible to dance, and dancing generally means loud music. Q 11 rooms (99 - 450Lt). Breakfast not included. ALKXW hhh

Palanga C-1, Biruts 60, tel. (+370) 460 414 14, fax (+370) 460 414 15, info@palangahotel.lt, www.palangahotel.lt. The resorts namesake accommodation option is located inside an award-winning building based on a ship. Options include standard rooms, suites and apartments, all of them good looking and some boasting balconies with gorgeous views. Surplus to the private facilities are a host add-ons, among them conference facilities, pool and a spa complex. Q74 rooms (400 - 1,400Lt). PTHAR6U FLKDCW hhhhh
(+370) 460 490 80, fax (+370) 460 490 81, info@ pusupaunksneje.lt, www.pusupaunksneje.lt. What does a famous Lithuanian basketball player do with his spare money? Well, Arvydas Sabonis has invested wisely. Fourteen stunning self-contained apartments including large living areas, small kitchens, lovey-dovey fireplaces and upstairs bedrooms. Communal facilities include underground parking, combined basketball/tennis court, swimming pool, bar and restaurant among other treats. Q14 rooms (400 - 1,800Lt). PTHA6LKDCW hhhh

alias Namas A-3, Vytauto 97, tel. (+370) 687 866 52, fax (+370) 460 512 31, info@zaliasnamas.lt, www.zaliasnamas.lt. A fine Scandinavian-looking house not far from the centre, among the facilities are satellite television, minibars and wireless internet in every room, swimming pool, sauna and a nice caf with an equally cute terrace. Good for families thanks to the small in-house playground, try to get one of the rooms with a balcony if you can. Q16 rooms (170 - 580Lt). Breakfast not included. TALKDCW hhh
tel. (+370) 460 524 41, fax (+370) 460 482 50, info@ zydrojiliepsna.lt, www.zydrojiliepsna.lt. Excellent for a family holiday, as the rooms come complete with extra pullout beds. Not only that, theyre quite charming too. Big windows, colourful furniture and fresh flowers in the rooms make the place not only attractive to families, but also to loving summer couples too. Q36 rooms (140 - 440Lt). THARKDCW hhh

ydroji Liepsna (Blue Flame) B/C-3, Gintaro 36,

Pu Paunksnje D-2, Dariaus ir Girno 25, tel.

Apartments
info@astoma.lt, www.astoma.lt. A lovely old clapperboard house in the centre providing seven modern apartments with wooden floors, flatscreen televisions, kitchenettes and balconies in the upstairs flats. Sizes range from simple one-room affairs to bigger spaces for families complete with fold-out beds. The price jumps dramatically during the summer season but is still good value. Check the website for full details complete with photographs. Q7 rooms (130 - 520Lt). TA6LW

Astoma D-2, J. Simpsono 9, tel. (+370) 615 498 43,

Mid-range
Alanga C-2, S. Nries 14, tel. (+370) 460 492 15, fax
(+370) 460 493 16, info@alanga.lt, www.alanga.lt. A central location and a nice collection of modern rooms and apartments, all with en suite facilities and little luxuries to ensure a pleasant stay, extras here include sauna, conference facilities and a swimming pool if you cant find the beach. Looking like it fell off the back of a lorry on the way to a Swiss ski resort, prices rocket in the summer, although the facilities for children do make it a recommended option for people visiting with children. Q47 rooms (140 - 450Lt). Breakfast not included. THARFLKDCW hhh fax (+370) 460 400 12, info@feliksas.lt, www.feliksas. lt. Eleven cool brown and orange rooms decorated with a minimalist flair, facilities include satellite television, free wireless internet, spacious bathrooms with heated floors and a small refrigerator in every room. Bright and modern, among the many extras are guarded parking and the opportunity to rent bicycles. Q11 rooms (100 - 250Lt). Breakfast not included. AR6W hhh 460 516 55, sachmatine@cili.eu, www.sachmatine.lt. At first glance this sprightly little number at the far sea end of the main pedestrian street is a blessing. Pleasant staff greet guests who get a choice of well appointed rooms with all the trimmings for what appears to be a bargain price. The

Guesthouses
Pajrio Svei Namai D-1, Biruts 56, tel. (+370) 619
321 68, administrator@sveciunamai.lt, www.sveciunamai.lt. Located mostly inside a modern, Art Deco-looking white building close to the sea and the Botanical Park, the lovely rooms run the gamut from decent doubles to a cottage complete with kitchen, fireplace and sauna. Check the website for more information about each option. Q11 rooms (160 1,200Lt). Breakfast not included. PTALW

Info Hotel D-3, Kretingos 52, tel. (+370) 460 400 11,

Palanga 2013
Each year in Lithuania the title of Lithuanian Capital of Culture is awarded to a particular town or city. In 2013 the honour goes to Palanga for reasons including the 760th anniversary of the towns founding among many others. Palangas status as the countrys summer capital ensures that, during the holiday season at least, there are always plenty of cultural events taking place around town although this year theyve really pulled the stops out and are offering more than usual. A short list of events in Palanga can be found on p.13. For full information in English about everything going on from photography exhibitions to outdoor concerts, see the special website at www.palanga2013.lt.

achmatin C-1, Basanaviiaus 45, tel./fax (+370)

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klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

PALANGA
Vila Ramyb D-2, Vytauto 54, tel. (+370) 460 541 24, palanga@vilaramybe.lt, www.vilaramybe.lt. Home to one of the best bars in town and also a superb little hotel in its own right, this is the classic, friendly, original Palanga boutique hotel experience. Close to the centre, choices run from super singles to rooms with kitchens to a smashing two-room affair with a balcony. Despite the lack of extras, this remains one of the nicest places to stay in town. Q16 rooms (90 - 500Lt). TAR6KW hhh

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Where to eat
Palangas restaurants and cafs provide sustenance for the stomach as well as endless opportunities to meet likeminded people out for a good time. Not exactly a culinary oasis, the food that gets served in the town is at least varied, if not mouth-watering. The towns nightlife options are considerable, although many new places remain a secret until well after this guide has gone to press. Clubs tend to fall into the loud and sweaty category and are generally there for forgetting about lifes complexities and just having a ball. An experience not to be missed when in town is to clamber over the dunes and find one of the bars on the beach, where, if the weathers being kind, its possible to drink until sunrise.

Barbecue
(+370) 604 701 01. What else would you call a restaurant that specialises in barbecue cooking and that features a white grand piano in the front garden? It may be a bit of a gimmick, but these people really are trying to make an effort, which after youve run the gauntlet of the standard awful restaurants in Palanga youll be more than grateful for. Theres also an impressive wine list, and the garden with the piano in it is a great place to sit and watch the locals wander by in their thousands on a hot summer day. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. 20Lt. PTJAEBSW

Piano Barbecue C-1, J. Basanaviiaus 24a, tel.

International
Feliksas B-2, Vytauto 116, tel. (+370) 612 121 58,
www.feliksas.lt. Done up to resemble the inside of a luxury yacht with plenty of dark wood and brass fittings, Feliksas pipes aboard a mixed crowd of jolly sailors who visit to dine on a range of good-looking international dishes, empty the well-stocked bar and to take advantage of the live music acts who perform here. Slightly out of the centre, evenings here can be immense fun and are well worth the effort when they are. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. Open 07:00 - 02:00 (July - August). 17Lt. TAEBSW

Caucasian
Ararat Vytauto 147a, tel. (+370) 652 249 91, www. ararat.lt. Palangas hardly lacking in places to eat grilled Armenian food, although it does fall down a bit when its required with a touch of class. This restaurant owned and run by the people of the same name in Klaipda serves an extensive range of quality Armenian nosh in an atmosphere of mild sophistication. A good option for equally decent food in a less hectic part of town. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 20Lt. PTAUBSW Armnika Virtuv C-2, Basanaviiaus 17, tel. (+370)
652 875 79, www.armeniskavirtuve.lt. One of a number of exemplary restaurants in town serving this marvellous style of cooking, the grilled meat here, not to mention the spicy soups, are well worth trying. Concerning the meat on the menu, avoid everything that isnt cooked in the traditional way. Recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. 25Lt. TJABSW

Molinis sotis C-2, J. Basanaviiaus 8a, tel. (+370)

460 402 08, www.molinisasotis.lt. The Clay Pitcher offers a modicum of protection from the seething masses on Lithuanias most unsophisticated thoroughfare with a choice of international dishes which by all accounts taste better than they read (pork chin fried in beer?). Assuming you can decipher the gobbledygook on the menu, expect a charming, old world interior, summer terrace, friendly serving girls and an impressive wine list. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 21Lt. TABS 460 490 91/(+370) 460 490 80, www.pusupaunksneje. lt. A splendid restaurant located inside the hotel of the same name and owned by the Lithuanian basketball superstar Arvydas Sabonis, this wonderfully upmarket affair features a galaxy of high class cuisine from veal to that rarely found in Lithuania dish, lamb. Theres also a limited selection of pasta and aubergine offerings for vegetarians, an extensive wine list and plenty of classic desserts. Also available for group bookings, the added bonus of a sauna in the same building makes this place the ideal place for the ultimate in celebrations. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. 50Lt. PTALEBSW

Pu Paunksnje D-2, Dariaus ir Girno 25, tel. (+370)

Fish
uvin C-1, J. Basanaviiaus 37a, tel. (+370) 656 596
47, www.zuvine.lt. White tablecloth dining complete with a library and some nice outdoor seating, this recommended fish restaurant claims to be the only one in town serving freshly caught seafood. The extensive and refreshingly pricey menu also includes such Lithuanian oddities as mussels and snails. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 40Lt. PTAEBSW

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PALANGA
Lithuanian
11, www.decuba.lt. Lets be honest, this is neither a Cuban restaurant nor for that matter is it an international restaurant with Cuban food on the menu. What it actually is is a huge outdoor theme park of a restaurant with a smaller, year-round restaurant indoors, complete with little wooden bridges, musical fountains, cheerful if at times flustered waitresses and a range of Lithuanian and other dishes to choose from. Popular with children of all ages, if you had to sum up Palanga in one location, this would be the place. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. 25Lt. PTAUBSW

DeCuba C-2, J. Basanaviiaus 28, tel. (+370) 460 510

Cafs
1925 C-2, J. Basanaviiaus 4, tel. (+370) 460 525
26, www.baras1925.lt. A firm Palanga favourite, 1925 functions as both a caf and a bar and does a fairly good job at being both. The lush wooden interior is helped along with the addition of old photographs of inter-war Lithuania and has a fireplace which is a real attraction during the winter. Theres a small garden out the back with things for children to clamber on and upstairs are a couple of bedrooms if you cant drag yourself away from the place. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. 18Lt. TABSW

Pizza
ili Pica C-1, J. Basanaviiaus 45, tel. (+370) 460 573 59, www.cili.lt. Lithuanias champion of pizza restaurants has chosen a prime location in Palanga in which to operate, just off the beach at the far end of the towns favourite street. ili Pica continues to court controversy amongst those who tried their food, although the opinion here is that for the price youd be a bit of a fool to complain. As well as the aforementioned circular sustenance, the menu also includes meat and pasta dishes plus one or two options for vegetarians. Immensely popular, dont roll up when theyre busy if you need something quick. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. TJAVBSW

Coffee Inn C-1, Basanaviiaus 42, tel. (+370) 652 035 00, www.coffee-inn.lt. Lithuanias increasingly large chain of recommended cafs now has a permanent home in Palanga. Little more than a kiosk with a few chairs and tables outside, dont be put off by its humble appearance. Find excellent coffee on offer, plus wraps, sandwiches, muffins and other coffee-related snacks. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. JABSW
in grilled meat dishes far beyond the reaches of ordinary steak including venison, duck and crocodile. Good value, protein rich rations abound, and if you find yourself with a long wait, you might consider taking advantage of the special in-house Jacuzzi. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. 30Lt. PTAUEBSW

Russian
agino C-2, J. Basanaviiaus 14a, tel. (+370) 460 535 55. Named after the one-time owner of the building that now houses their parent restaurant in Vilnius, the Palanga outlet of this hit-and-miss Russian affair offers classics such as chicken with smoked plums in modern, glass surroundings on two floors. Situated along the towns premier catwalk, recommended is a plate of blini with lashings of sour cream and a shot of vodka whilst sat on the terrace watching the rednecks shuffle by. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 24Lt. PT JAUBSW

Valgyklas
Jros Akmuo C-2, Vytauto 94, tel. (+370) 460 532 59. Youll be hard pushed to find a friendly face in here, nor for that matter will you come across a matching knife and fork, but thats not the point. Sacrificing just about everything you ever wanted from a restaurant with the exception of the stuff that goes on the plates, this fine old institution couldnt care less about customer service, being far too busy cooking classic local dishes including cepelinai and kotletai and keeping them nice and warm until you arrive. Smashing. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. 9Lt. BS

Steak
Laas Steak House C-2, J. Basanaviiaus 29, tel.
(+370) 460 575 45, www.lasashotel.com. A rather bizarre-looking two-storey house betrays both a recommended steak restaurant and a hotel of the same name. Assuming you only want to eat here, the bill of fare specialises

What to see
If your cultural expectations extend beyond collecting strangers telephone numbers and emptying your bladder on the beach in the middle of the night, all is not lost if you find yourself in Palanga. The following few recommendations provide several opportunities to get away from the morons and enjoy one or two of the finer things in life.

Microbreweries
Pas Juoz ibininkai, tel. (+370) 445 446 78, www.
hbh.lt. Looking like a cross between a medieval village and an out of town shopping centre, what started as a small bar selling local, family-produced beer in 1995 has turned into something much, much bigger. A recommended half-day family excursion, surplus to the superb ale and honest local fare are a huge garden complete with a basketball court, bizarre sculpture park, sauna, hotel, an almost endless repertoire of events and, if you need it, they can also organise everything from horse riding to paintballing. The beer they make incidentally, HBH, retails at the marvellous price of just 4Lt for half a litre. In the tiny settlement of ibininkai 7km northeast of Palanga, find it on the other side of the A13 (E272). A taxi should set you back around 15-20Lt. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. 20Lt. PTULEBSW

Museums
Amber Museum (Gintaro Muziejus) E-1, Vytauto 17, tel. (+370) 460 513 19, www.pgm.lt. Situated inside the fabulous 19th-century neo-Classical former mansion of Count Tikeviius (Pol. Tyszkiewicz), this exemplary museum holds some 25,000 pieces of amber of which over half have animals and plants trapped inside. Telling the fascinating story of Baltic Gold, this is a wonderful place to spend an hour in and is highly recommended for keeping children entertained. The back of the mansion features a famous rose garden, and the mansion itself also hosts the occasional concert and recital. Q Box office open 11:00 - 16:30, Sun 11:0015:30. Closed Mon (September 1 - May 31). Open 10:00 -19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon (June 1 - August 31). Admission 8/4Lt. klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

Klaipda In Your Pocket

PALANGA
Namai - Muziejus) D-2, S. Daukanto 16, tel. (+370) 460 493 67, www.antanasmoncys.com. Lithuanian sculptor Antanas Monys (1921-1993) fled the country in 1944, eventually finding a home and a place to work in post-war Paris. Recognised during the massive changes taking place in Lithuania in 1988, this small cottage-museum features some of his finest work as well as drawings, exhibition posters, personal affects and other items of interest. Like all great sculptors, Monys was obsessed with the tactile quality of his work, and accordingly left a clause in his will specifying that it was perfectly acceptable for others to touch it, these pieces included. Q Open 13:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue (May 15 - September 15). Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue (September 16 - May 14). Admission 4/2Lt. Dog Museum (un Muziejus) Taikos 8, tel. (+370) 688 188 20, www.sunumuziejus.lt. Not to be outdone by iauliai and its rather splendid Cat Museum, Palanga fights back tooth and claw with this baffling little diversion. Starting life two decades ago with a single ceramic dog, the museum has simply ballooned out of all proportions into a collection of over 2,000 souvenir hounds made from some 22 different materials and originating from almost 40 countries. Featuring everything from dog-shaped earrings to soft stuffed pooches, the Dog Museum is the only one of its kind in the Baltics, and we think we know why. Q Open 16:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Also by appointment. Admission 5/2.50Lt. Exile & Resistance Museum (Tremties ir Rezistencijos Muziejus) C-2, J. Basanaviiaus 21. The owners Antanas Monys House Museum (Antano Monio

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The beach
A glorious 18km of sand, dunes and chilly Baltic water await visitors to Palanga and its surroundings. The short stretch of coast running parallel to the main urban area offers everything from the simple pleasures of lying on the sand and soaking up the sun to taking to the water. If you dont have your own equipment with you, ask your hotel or the Tourist Information Centre for information on where to rent it, or pop along with your passport to the Sea Rescue Station below who can provide just about everything including surfboards, jet skis and even small boats. At the end of every day, thousands of people head to the Sea Bridge at the far western end of Basanaviiaus to watch the sun set before heading off into the night to get well and truly plastered.

Sea Rescue Station (Palangos Miesto Van dens Motocikl Klubas) A-1, vej 2a, tel. 1509.

appear to be in almost permanent exile and theres a certain amount of resistance when it comes to unlocking the doors

Nightlife
Nightlife in Palanga revolves around the time-honoured pursuit of bare-chested car mechanics and their wives drinking lager and singing along to karaoke and variations therein. Almost without exception, bars and clubs are only open during the short summer season making research almost impossible. If youre visiting Palanga for the party atmosphere, simply ask around to see whats going on and keep and eye out for the posters all over town. The following diehard venues are guaranteed to be open for business. 16, tel. (+370) 670 088 88, www.salunas.lt. What lobotomies were invented for, this mildly cowboy-themed adventure into brilliant absurdity would last about a week in most civilised towns. In Palanga however its been packing them in for years, helped along by a tantalising programme of banality including karaoke, wet-T-shirt contests and the occasional foray into the world of impromptu fisticuffs. Brutal, bonkers and just what every group of puerile staggers ever desired. Q Open 24hrs. Entrance 10 - 50Lt. AEBW

Laukini Vakar Salnas C-1, J. Basanaviiaus

to this small museum dedicated to those who fought against the Soviets and who were transported to Siberia. We havent managed to get inside ourselves, so we cant tell you much more. A similar museum in Kaunas is well worth visiting if thats anything to go by. Q Open Wed, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri. Admission free. J

Churches
(+370) 460 561 86. This grand, neo-Gothic beauty between the bus station and Basanaviiaus was built between 1897 and 1906 to a design by the Swedish architect K. Strandman. The dark interior offers a welcome and distinctly cool break from the madness outside, with the altars made from scores of little silver arms and legs being of particular interest. At 76m, the imposing spire can be seen from just about anywhere in town. Across the street and just to the left is a WWII Red Army war memorial complete with one of the few remaining hammer and sickles in the country. Q Mass 08:00, 19:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 12:00, 19:00. J

Vila Ramyb D-2, Vytauto 54, tel. (+370) 460 541 24, www.vilaramybe.lt. A hotel bar worth visiting is a rare thing indeed, and whilst some nights its like the Mary Celeste in here, others are a different kettle of fish altogether. This welcome haven of culture comes to life each summer with a very un-Palanga set of guests who wish nothing more than to hobnob it with a more arty crowd than the usual knuckle-draggers. The terrace also acts as a stage for live jazz from time to time. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. Entrance free. AUBSW klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

Church of the Assumption (v. Mergels Marijos Dangun mimo Banyia) C-2, M. Valaniaus 51, tel.

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PALANGA
Places of interest
Anaiiai Ethno graphic Cemetery (Etnograf ins Anaii Kapins)
of the top names in Lithuanian sculpture as well as a few pieces made by artists from Armenia, Estonia, Latvia and Ukraine was first opened in 1982. Overhauled in 2007 to celebrate its 25th anniversary, this quiet and cultured haven is the perfect place to escape to if youre sick and tired of getting your ankles nipped by tipsy proletariats on bicycles made for four.

Overlooked entirel y, e ve n b y t h e l o c a l touri s t in for ma ti on people, this extraordinar y colle ction of 19th- and early 20thcentury graves in the tiny hamlet of Anaiiai is trul y remarkabl e an d sh ould b e visited by anyone with even a passing interest in philology. Although now par t of Palanga, which was at the time within the Russian Empire, Anaiiai was originally on the Prussian side of the border, as the mind-boggling writing on some of the graves shows clearly enough. Among the more customary renditions of the German and Lithuanian inscriptions on the graves are a few that reflect not only the regions mixed ethnic heritage but that also illustrate how the Lithuanian language was in effect cleansed at the start of the 20th century. The pictured gravestone is a classic example, featuring elements of the German, Lithuanian and Curonian languages with the addition of Polish spelling that predates the introduction of the modern Lithuanian alphabet. A few kilometres south of Palanga just past the small settlement of Nemirseta, there are no signposts to aid finding the place, making getting hold of a Briedis Palanga ir ventoji map, available from any decent bookshop for less than 10Lt, essential if you dont want to spend the day driving around in circles. The cemetery is on the left at the end of the first collection of buildings on the right-hand side of the dirt track.

Sport, Leisure & Culture

Visiting Palanga isnt just about chasing members of the opposite sex and comparing hangovers. Other treats on offer include everything from bowling and billiards to a visit to the theatre to exploring the own on a pair of rollerskates. Find it all and more here.

Bicycles etc.

If you havent brought your own set of self-propelled wheels to Palanga, fear not, just about every hotel and street corner during the summer season comes with the option to rent something from rollerblades to bicycles for anything from an hour to as long as you plan to stay. Prices are fairly low, and, if you want to get the most of the area without resorting to an internal combustion engine, well worth the bother. A passport or other form of ID that includes a photograph is essential when renting any of the above.

Cinemas

Naglis D-2, Vytauto 82, tel. (+370) 460 575

Sea Bridge (Jros Tiltas) C-1. Originally built over 100 years ago for unloading ocean-going tourists in Palanga, at over 400m long, the simple L-shaped wooden pier (for despite the name tis not a bridge) at the far western end of Basanaviiaus remains much as it was during its original incarnation. A simple structure on which to promenade and with no facilities whatsoever, walking up and down the pier is all part of the experience, faintly echoing the formal parades filled with sexual tension that take place daily throughout the Balkans. Be sure to visit at least once as the sun is setting as is the norm during the holiday season.

75/(+370) 698 244 22, www.lietuvoskinas.lt. A lovely old building given over to the age-old pursuit of screening films for your holiday pleasure, as well as the usual Hollywood films on offer Naglis occasionally forgets itself and screens underground, arthouse and documentary work as well. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. 8 - 16Lt. J

Parks & Gardens

Birut Park (Palangos Biruts Parkas) E-1, Vytauto 15. Until recently known as the Botanical Park, this marvellous 100-hectare park was designed by the French horticulturalist and landscape gardener Edouard Andr (1840-1911) who spent three summers here designing it with his son at the end of the 19th century. Originally containing an estimated 500 native and foreign species, the current park boasts considerably more including pine, fir and elder trees plus over 600 varieties of plant including 24 considered to be endangered. The park, which is the perfect place to stroll or cycle, also contains several statues, ponds full of ducks and swans and a small zoo. The beach next to the park was granted Blue Flag status in 2004. Sculpture Park (Skulptr Parkas) D-2. Close
to where Vy tauto meets J. Simpsono, the often sadly overlooked li ttle park packed wi th 28 contemporar y statues representing several different styles from some

Kart Nuoma Kretingos 56a, tel. (+370) 686 211 30, www.kartunuoma.lt. Outdoor fun in petrolpropelled go-karts for a decent price, this long established track also organises weekly competitions with handsome prizes. They also have a dirt track for larger vehicles with cages which under certain circumstances can be taken into the nearby forest. See the website for more information. Over-12s only. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00 (March - October). Also by appointment. Teniso Aiktynas (Palangos Vasaros Teniso Centras) C-1, Gedimino 7, tel. (+370) 698 230 21, www.manotenisas.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.

Go-karting

Tennis

Theatres

Palanga Summer Theatre (Palangos Vasaros Estrada) D-2, Vytauto 43. Escape the rabble and
indulge in some quality opera, ballet and classical music concerts as well as a few more popular music performances during the summer. Palangas claim to theatrical fame lies in the fact that it was in this town in 1899 that the play Amerika Pirtyje (America in the Bathhouse), was performed, the first play ever given in the Lithuanian language.

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MAIL & PHONES

Keeping in touch is relatively easy in 21st-century Lithuania. All three local mobile phone companies provide easy-to-use prepaid services which despite the current lowering of roaming charges within the EU still represent a considerable saving if you plan on using your mobile a fair amount. The Lithuanian word for internet is internetas. Internet caf is interneto kavin.

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Emergency numbers Police Fire Ambulance Tel. 112

Postal rates
Lithuania Letter (44g) Postcard (20g) CD (130g) 1.65Lt 1.55Lt 2.50Lt EU 2.95Lt 2.45Lt 5.90Lt Outside EU 3.35Lt 2.90Lt 11.75Lt

Post
Central Post Office N/O-5, Liep 16, tel. (+370) 46 31 50 14, www.post.lt. Posting a letter or using Western Union never felt so good. This wonderful neo-Gothic building was constructed towards the end of the 19th century and is worth a look inside even if you dont want to use the services provided. The tower hides a marvellous, 48-bell carillion which is played every Saturday and Sunday at 12:00. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J

Express mail rates

Comparative rates for sending a package weighing a maximum of 500g. London Paris New York DHL EMS TNT UPS 170Lt 215Lt 163Lt 174Lt 170Lt 213Lt 181Lt 192Lt 240Lt 210Lt 265Lt 279Lt

Laptop login
Wireless W Free wireless internet in the centre of Klaipda is slowly reaching saturation point, with scores of hotels, restaurants, bars and even shopping centres now providing fast connection speeds at no cost. If you cant find a free connection, the national Zebra network offers a range of paid services including a handy option for browsing over a 24 hour period for just 5Lt, which is available via SMS to anyone with a local mobile number. 3G/4G Bit (www.bite.lt) and Omnitel (www.omnitel.lt) provide 3G services for laptop connection to the internet allegedly wherever you are within Lithuania. Far from perfect, if youre prepared for slightly slower speeds than broadband and the occasional loss of signal then one of these services might me just for you. The abovementioned mobile operators also offer the so-called pre-4G services, although the only true 4G service is provided by Mezon (www.mezon.lt), which can be ordered with the help of a local for a period of two weeks for just 29Lt. Weve been using Mezon for several months now and have no complaints whatsoever. Dialup Assuming youve got an RJ-11 plug on the end of your cable (visitors from the UK please note that you probably dont), a nifty, hassle-free dialup option is available for those who cant find any other connection. Simply dial tel. 890 15 55 55 from anywhere in the country using your dial-up software of choice leaving the username and password blank and away you go. Calls are charged at a standard 0.12Lt/min at all times from a private line (this figure may well be a lot higher in a hotel), and everything is charged directly to whoevers telephone account youre using.

Express mail
Closed Sat, Sun. LP Express O-2, Priestoio 7, tel. (+370) 46 31 50 31, www.lpexpress.lt. Q Open 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J UPS O-5, Dans 31, tel. (+370) 46 42 10 00, klaipeda@ ups.lt, www.ups.lt. QOpen 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA

DHL Dariaus ir Girno 81, Vilnius, tel. (+370) 5 236 07 00, ltinfo@dhl.com, www.dhl.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00.

Mobile phones
Bit M-2, H. Manto 40, tel. (+370) 699 232 30, www. bite.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J Omnitel H-8, Minijos 90, tel. 1533, www.omnitel.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TELE2 N-3, S. Daukanto 27, tel. (+370) 601 100 17, www.tele2.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

Internet cafs
46 23 70 64, www.technorama.lt. Several Macs inside a shop selling vacuum cleaners, digital cameras etc. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. A

Technorama I-7, Taikos 61 (Akropolis), tel. (+370)

Prepaid SIM cards

Card Bit (Labas) Omnitel (Eys) TELE2 (Pildyk) Price (Lt) 6 0.99 4.50 Local (Lt/min) 0.49 0.09 0.48 London (Lt/min) 2.30 2.03 1.85 Top-up (Lt) From 5 From 5 From 5 SMS (Lt) 0.10 0.09 0.10 Voicemail (Lt/call) 0.50 Free 0.15 Coverage 99% 99% 96%

Note All prices quoted are for peak-time calls, and are subject to change during the lifespan of this guide.

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50

SHOPPING
The ever-increasing collection of colossal shopping and entertainment centres in the residential southern part of Klaipda has meant the emptying of large parts of the city centre, with Old Town being the worst affected. If you like shopping more than you like culture however, this is no doubt a good thing. Having said that, Old Town remains the place for gifts and souvenirs such as local amber and linen, although be careful of the stuff sold from the stalls at the outdoor market on Theatre Square (Teatro Aikt). Further north over the river on H. Manto are a handful of small shopping centres plus a collection of retail outlets selling everything from handbags to shotguns. The aforementioned beasts in the south however are the place to go for most modern conveniences from digital cameras to swimming trunks.

Antiques
Antikvariatas N-6/7, Kurpi 2-1, tel. (+370) 46 31
36 25. Coins, furniture, porcelain, stamps, postcards and other collectables. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J

Art supplies
18, www.artmanija.lt. Everything for the artist plus a selection of the basics for making jewellery. Also a small supply of wedding-related bits and pieces. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA

Art Manija L-4, S. imkaus 3/30, tel. (+370) 659 812

Shopping centres
Bursting with shops selling everything from shoes to fur coats to video cameras. Also a large Maxima supermarket, cinema, ice-skating, a place to keep the children amused and several restaurants. Dont miss the extraordinary mechanical clock that performs on the hour. Bus N8 runs from the centre past the front door. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. PAULKW BIG/BIG2 Taikos 139/141, tel. (+370) 46 27 74 99, big@bpt.lt, www.bigklaipeda.lt. Comprising two vast shopping areas next to each other, namely BIG and BIG2, Klaipdas biggest shopping centre is located in the south of the city and is easily reachable by public transport and taxi. Shopping includes large IKI and Maxima supermarkets, retail outlets selling everything from beauty products to fashion to household electrical goods, scores of restaurants and cafs including Chinese food, pizza and others and sports and leisure facilities including mini-golf and a labyrinth of horror. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. PTAULKW Herkaus Galerija M-3, H. Manto 22, tel. (+370) 679 778 33, www.herkausgalerija.lt. Currently the best shopping centre in the heart of the city, find three floors of retail plus another floor at the top of the building given over to office space. Among the big names such as Benetton are a few local brands, fashion outlets and others including the interesting Amfora vase shop. Also find a couple of cafs and a Tao Sushi restaurant. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. PJAULKXW

Books etc.
Retro Knygos N-6, Tilt 19, tel. (+370) 46 21 02 13. Its almost impossible to buy new books in English in town at the moment, making this cramped second-hand shop worth its weight in gold. The selection may not be massive but theres a fairly good range of paperbacks and coffee table books on offer. They also deal in a few antiques and general bric-a-brac. Also at Taikos 141 (BIG 2). QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA Vaga M-4, H. Manto 9, tel. (+370) 46 40 29 12, www.vaga. lt. A pitiful collection of books in English in a very central location. Handy for dictionaries, local language literature and little else. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA

Akropolis I-7, Taikos 61, tel. 1588, www.akropolis.lt.

Computers
citys only exclusive Apple outlet stocks a small selection of products including laptops, iPhones and iPads. Accessories, chargers etc. are also available. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JAW

Resit M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1, tel. (+370) 657 900 31. The

Flowers & Plants

If youre thinking of giving flowers to somebody in Lithuania, remember that superstition remains rife here and its easy to make a mistake. There are certain rules that should be adhered to if you wish to keep on the right side of your sweetheart and/or future parents-in-law. Firstly, unless somebody just died, make sure you only give an odd number of flowers or stems. One will do, but isnt particularly welcomed unless its a single red rose for the one you love. Lilies and chrysanthemums are potent symbols of death and should be left well alone unless heading to the cemetery. If giving flowers to members of the older generations avoid yellow ones. Yellow is the colour of jealousy, and can be traced back to the Middle Ages when yellow was the traditional colour of the dresses worn by ladies of a questionable profession. Carnations, especially red ones, are symbols of the communists. Again, avoid. And if you just so happen to be in Lithuania on International Womens Day (March 8), its appropriate for men to give red tulips to their female colleagues at work. A small selection of flowers that can be combined to order plus a few houseplants. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:30 - 16:30. J

Markets
604 044 44. Lining one street in Old Town this rather lacklustre affair sells mostly junk and the occasional piece of interest. Worth a browse if the weathers good. Q Open Sun 10:00 - 14:00 J Old Market (Senasis Turgus) 0-8, tel. (+370) 46 41 25 07, www.klturgus.lt. The classic Lithuanian market experience, this predominantly outdoor affair is the place to come for exotic Chinese underpants, ill-fitting sweaters and, towards the back, meat, fruit, vegetables, flowers and plants. Its also been known for a second-hand market to show up here, plus the whole area is surrounded by shops and bars with real character. The older part of the market at the back, in Turgaus Aikt, is just like stepping back into the past complete with imposing Germanic buildings and metal telegraph poles that must be at least 70 years old. Worth a look around even if you dont need to buy anything. QOpen 06:00 - 18:00. J

Flea Market (Blus Turgus) N-7, Auktoji, tel. (+370)

Florika N-7, Turgaus 4, tel. (+370) 46 31 27 11.

klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
Klaipda In Your Pocket klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

SHOPPING
Food & Drink
www.biciukorys.lt. An indication of the importance of bees and bee-keeping in Lithuania, this shop is an outlet of one of the largest companies in the country. As well as stocking a selection of superb honey, they also sell everything necessary for keeping bees yourself. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J Rta I-7, Taikos 61 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 618 664 87, www.ruta.lt. iauliais Rta confectionary factory was founded in 1913 and still makes some of the best sweets and chocolates in Eastern Europe. Stuff yourself stupid whilst walking around the city or buy some as a unique gift or souvenir. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

51

Bii Korys N-7, Sukilli 18, tel. (+370) 46 31 38 80,

QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA

cameras and the like plus flashguns, camera bags, batteries and other essentials for amateurs and enthusiasts alike.

Specialist shops
Lemona G-5, Biruts 2, tel. (+370) 46 42 24 00, www.
lemona.lt. Bursting with all manner of electronic gadgets, this is the place to come if you lose or break your laptop power supply. Unlike most shops of its kind, the fabulous Lemona, which also has outlets in Vilnius, Kaunas and iauliai, employs staff who know what theyre talking about. The address is slightly misleading as the entrance is on Sausio 15-osios. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Gifts & Souvenirs

Paintings, folk costumes, amber, wood carvings, wooden bowls, linen etc. A big selection in the best location. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J Suvenyr Pasaulis N-7, Auktoji 5, tel. (+370) 46 41 04 86. Amber, wooden carvings, and other local treats, plus a range of unique, hand-painted clothing. QOpen 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J

Sport & Leisure

www.romada.lt. A mindboggling array of equipment for fresh-water and sea fishing. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA Sportland I-7, Taikos 61 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 46 46 91 83. Mostly sports clothing plus a few accessories. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. JA Veloma H-5, Taikos 21, tel. (+370) 46 38 08 37, www. veloma.lt. On the large main road connecting Old Town with the sleeping districts to the south, this large shop and repair outlet holds an impressive stock of bicycles for all types of cycling, gender and ages. The repair section can handle all types of problems and can also service bicycles. Theres also a small stock of accessories. Also at Taikos 7. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA

Marginiai N-7, Sukilli 4, tel. (+370) 46 41 04 88.

Romada L-5, Bokt 8-10, tel. (+370) 46 49 37 02,

House & Garden

10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. A Senukai K-7, iluts 35/35a, tel. (+370) 46 41 64 16, www.senukai.lt. Building materials, electrical equipment, miscellaneous household essentials, some basic office furniture, garden centre and outdoor furniture. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. A Tomasella G-6, Minijos 2, tel. (+370) 46 49 68 67, www.tomasella.lt. The best way to spruce up your newly purchased apartment or rental property. Get everything you need from the kitchen to the bedroom. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Berry Baldai Baltijos 6a, tel. (+370) 46 31 14 00, www.berrybaldai.lt. Stacks of fairly good furniture. QOpen

Supermarkets
iki.lt. IKI shops were the first Western-style supermarkets to arrive in the country, and still supply a good range of hard-tofind food in Lithuania. Also at Taikos 115, Taikos 28. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. JA

IKI N-4, M. Mavydo 7-11, tel. (+370) 46 41 12 71, www.

Jewellery
yurga.lt. Hand-made jewellery inspired by themes from nature and formed from amber, iron, gold and silver. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA

Yurga N-7, Turgaus 10, tel. (+370) 46 21 12 50, www.

Musical instruments
Tamsta M-4, Ligonins 16, tel. (+370) 46 31 41 13, www.tamsta.lt. Tucked away in a small side street Tamsta stocks a magnificent range of acoustic, electric and electronic instruments as well as a wide choice of spares and accessories. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA

Office supplies
Office Day J-5, iluts 2, tel. (+370) 46 48 51 71, www. officeday.lt. Office supplies of every description. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Photography
Vilbra Foto O-4, Liep 24, tel. (+370) 46 31 00 18, www.vilbrafoto.lt. The only dedicated photography shop in the city, Vilbra Photo stocks a few dSLRs, compact digital klaipeda.inyourpocket.com
Old Market

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52

DIRECTORY
Assuming youre not in town just for the food and beer and that you didnt bring your butler with you, you may find the following information very useful indeed.

Accountants
KPMG L-5, Naujoji Uosto 11, tel. (+370) 46 48 00 12, www.kpmg.lt. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30, Fri 08:30 - 16:30.
Closed Sat, Sun. J

Klaipda International Business Club, tel. (+370) 698 776 54, secretary@kibc.lt, www.kibc.lt. Representing both foreign companies and individuals doing business in the Klaipda region, promoting business-to-business and generally socialising both formal and not-so formal. Regular networking meetings take place on the first Thursday of the month at 19:00 inside the Radisson Blu Hotel Klaipda. J

Computer repair
ACK F-1, H. Manto 84 (Studlendas), tel. (+370) 634 972 66. A small place inside a shopping centre specialising in DOS-based computer repair. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Banks
DNB I-7, Taikos 61 (Akropolis), tel. 1608, www.dnb.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. J SEB Bankas L-2, H. Manto 31, tel. 1528, www.seb. lt. Also at Taikos 115. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Swedbank H-6, Taikos 52c/1, tel. 1884, www.swedbank.lt. Also at H. Manto 84, Turgaus 9. QOpen 09:00
- 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J Sun. J

Conference facilities
Navalis M-3, H. Manto 23, tel. (+370) 46 40 42 00, www.navalis.lt. JH Radisson Blu Hotel Klaipda M-3, auli 28, tel. (+370) 46 49 08 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-klaipeda. JH

Barbers & Salons

Elada N-6, Jono 5, tel. (+370) 46 21 96 55. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J Salon+ I-7, Taikos 61 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 46 46 91 99, www.salonplus.lt. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00 (from June 1 until September 2). Open 10:00 - 21:00 (from September 3 until May 31).

Consumer rights
European Consumer Centre (Europos Vartotoj Centras) Odmini 12, Vilnius, tel. (+370) 5 265 03 68,
www.ecc.lt. A free service, the European Consumer Centres staff in Lithuania are on hand to deal with any consumer issues people have when in Lithuania. Q Open 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. Lunch 12:00 - 12:45.

Business connections
M-6, Dans 17, tel. (+370) 46 39 08 61, www.kcci.lt. A conglomeration of big local businesses and a possible foot in the door for outsiders looking for business opportunities in the region. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

Klaipda Chamber of Commerce Industry & Crafts (Klaipdos Prekybos, Pramons ir Amat Rmai)

Dry cleaners
Jogl I-7, Taikos 61 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 614 484 01, www.jogle.lt. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00 (from June 1 until September 2). Open 10:00 - 21:00 (from September 3 until May 31). A

H. Manto 84-217, tel. (+370) 46 31 10 10, www.kepa. lt. A local organisation with European money responsible for a host of initiatives and advice on all manner of business opportunities. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

Klaipda Economic Development Agency (Klaipdos Ekonomins Pltros Agentra) F-1,

Foreign representations
tel. (+370) 46 49 99 52, ruskonsul@klaipeda.omnitel. net, www.klaipeda.mid.ru. Q Open 08:30 - 12:00, 15:00 - 16:00 Mon - Fri. J

Russian Consulate (Rusijos Federacijos Generalinis Konsulatas Klaipdoje) G-6, ermukni 4,

Health
Fielmann M-3, H. Manto 30, tel. (+370) 46 31 00 72, www.fielmann.lt. Opticians. Also at Tilt 22. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA Gintarin Vaistin H-6, Taikos 28, tel. (+370) 46 31 18 61, www.gintarine.lt. Pharmacy. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. JA Odontologijos Kabinetas M-3, S. Daukanto 22, tel. (+370) 46 41 08 98. Dentist. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J Respublikin Klaipdos Ligonin N-1, S. Nries 3, tel. (+370) 46 41 06 88/(+370) 46 41 25 58, www. rkligonine.lt. Hospital. Q Open 24hrs. J

Insurance
IF Draudimas M-2, Lietuvinink 4, tel. (+370) 46 40 42 30, www.if.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

Interpreters
Klaipda in the winter

balTICK Language Services L-4, S. imkaus 21-4, tel. (+370) 46 41 18 14, www.baltick.lt. QOpen 08:30
- 17:30, Fri 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. J

Klaipda In Your Pocket

klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

DIRECTORY
Key cut
Most real estate agents provide only one set of keys, meaning its the tenants responsibility to get a spare set cut. This isnt a difficult task, as most supermarkets of any note have a key-cut kiosk somewhere inside. One piece of advice to newcomers is that its not a brilliant idea to label keys, as this is as good as inviting would-be burglars to come and visit your house. Expect to pay somewhere in the region of 40Lt for a standard three-key cut.

53

Sun. JA

Raktas M-3, S. Daukanto 19, tel. (+370) 698 088 33 (24 hrs). QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed

Language courses
American English School H-6, Taikos 28-209, tel. (+370) 46 41 23 12, www.ames.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Lawyers
Sudintas, Juodys ir Partneriai F-3, S. imkaus 14, tel. (+370) 46 31 21 88. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00
- 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

Notaries
Notary Bureau 1 M-3, S. Daukanto 21/26, tel. (+370) 46 31 26 72, www.notarius.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

Officials
Curonian Spit National Park Administration Smiltyn Visitors Centre (Kuri Nerijos Nacionalinio Parko Direkcijos Lankytoj Centras Smiltynje) Smiltyns 11, tel. (+370) 46 40 22 56, infosmiltyne@nerija.lt, www.nerija.lt. Q Open 09:00 Klaipda & Sea Por t Customs (Klaipdos Teritorin Muitin) N-2, S. Nries 4, tel. (+370) 46 39 00 00, www.cust.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. J N-5, Liep 11, tel. (+370) 46 39 60 03/(+370) 46 39 60 66, www.klaipeda.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. J 12:00, 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. L-2, Gintaro 1, tel. (+370) 46 39 78 50, www.pasienis.lt. J

Coast Guard (VSAT Pakrani Apsaugos Rinktin)

Sport & Leisure

Budys Yacht Club (Budys Jachtklubas) L-4, Puodi 1, tel. (+370) 680 555 46, www.budys.lt. Q Open by Horse Riding Centre Darguiai, tel. (+370) 655 999 06, www.horsemarket.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sun
appointment only. J

08:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Klaipda Gym M-6, Naujojo Sodo 1 (Amberton Klaipda Hotel), tel. (+370) 675 485 84, www.klaipedagym.lt. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. PJADC 025 26, www.skydiving.lt. Leave your new overweight Norwegian expat friends in the pub and get thee to this place. Run by a bunch of appropriately crazy albeit responsible when it matters locals, bring your parachute or learn how to do it courtesy of an old AN-2 and a Cessna 175. The club is very relaxed, and visitors are welcome to sleep there at no extra cost just as long as they bring their own sleeping bag. Q By appointment only. National Golf Resort Staniai, tel. (+370) 46 42 00 00, www.nationalgolf.lt. A full, 18-hole, 72 par affair completed at the end of 2008 to a design by the internationally acclaimed course designers, Santana & Krause. About12km north of Klaipda and even closer to Kretinga, the course, which also includes a driving range, sits either side of the Dan river and is by those whove played it a fine affair. Part of a larger development project, the land around the course also features several villas and a large hotel. See the website for more information. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Oktopusas iluts 79, tel. (+370) 46 38 18 50, www. oktopusas.lt. A professional diving centre offering courses and underwater adventures around the country. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Klaipda Municipality (Klaipdos Savivaldyb)

Klaipda Parachute Club (Klaipdos Paraiutinink Klubas) Dirvupiai, tel. (+370) 652

Klaipda State Seaport Authority (Klaipdos Valstybinio Jr Uosto Direkcija) E-2, J. Janonio 24, tel. (+370) 46 49 96 00, www.portofklaipeda.lt. QOpen
08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.

Seaside Regional Park Administration (Pajrio Regioninio Parko Direkcija) Karkl, tel. (+370) 46 41 24 83, www.pajuris.info. Q Open 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00
- 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun (from September 16 until May 31). Open 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00 (from June 1 until September 15).

Real estate
BNTP Pramons 8a, tel. (+370) 46 30 01 64, www. bntp.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Oberhaus L-4, S. Daukanto 3, tel. (+370) 46 40 20 16, www.ober-haus.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. J

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54

STREET REGIsTER
All of the venues in this guidebook marked with an Old Town symbol (J) are featured as such because even if theyre not in Old Town per se, they are at least on the map opposite which we call Old Town. Confused? Dont be. Auktoji Baltikalnio Bang Banyi Bokt Brus Butk Juzs Dans Dar N-7/O-8 P-6/R-7 P-7/R-6 O-7 L-4/M-5 N/O-8 N/P-2 L-7/R-4 N-8/O-7 Galin Galinio Pylimo Gintaro Gluosni Grgatvio H. Manto I. Kanto J. Janonio Jono J. Karoso Jros J. Zauerveino Kalvi Kepj Krovj Kli vart Kurpi Laiv skg. O-7 O-8/7 L-2 P/R-6 O-7 L-1/N-6 L-3/4 L/M-2 N-7/O-6 N-3/O-5 L-5 L-4 N-7/6 N-7/O-6 L-5 P-7/8 N-7/O-6 O-4/P-5 L-4/M-6 Liep Ligonins Maoji Vandens Msinink N/O-6 M-4/O-3 N-6/7 M. Mavydo alja N-5/R-3 M-3/N-4 N-4 S. Nries Sod S. imkaus Sukilli altkalvi auli Taikos pr. Teatro Tilt Tils Tomo Trilapio Turgaus Uosto Vej Vilties Vytauto vej N-3/1 O-2 L-4/M-5 N-7/8 O-7 M-1/N-4 P-7/8 M/N-7 N-6/O-7 P/R-8 N-7/O-6 P-1/R-3 N-7/O-6 L-5/M-6 N-6/O-7 M/N-2 M-5/O-4 M-7/N-6

Maoji Smilties

Naujoji Uosto L-4/M-6 Naujojo Sodo L-6/N-5 Pakalns Pasiuntini Piev Tako Pilies Pylimo Priestoio Puodi Ramioji S. Daukanto Sinagog Skerdj O/R-5 N-6/7 L-2/3 M-7/N-8 O-6/7 L-1/R-2 L-4/M-5 M-2/1 L-4/R-2 O/P-8 N/O-8

Jrinink takas

J. Zembrickio L-1/M-2 K. Donelaiio N-3/O-4

Didioji Vandens N/O-7

CONVENIENCE STORES IN THE CENTER OF KLAIPDA

Wide fresh snacks selection IKI bakery - for every sweet tooth Fresh take away coffee The best gifts from Lithuania

Youll find

in:

Nidos g. 5 Audros g. 17 Janonio g. 21 Turgaus g. 16/Tilt g. 12 Herkaus Manto g. 31

Klaipda In Your Pocket

klaipeda.inyourpocket.com

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INDEX
ACK 52 Aismars 18 AJ okoladas 26 Akropolis 50 Alanga 44 Amber Gallery 40 Amberton Klaipda 15 American English School 53 Anaiiai Ethnographic Cemetery 48 Aniks Teatras 22 nnchen von Tarau 34 Antikvariatas 50 Apartament Nuoma 19 Ararat 21, 45 Ararat All Suites Hotel 15 Arib 16 Armnika Virtuv 45 Art Manija 50 Astoma 44 Atmintis 34 Autopunktas 8 Baltic Clipper 10 balTICK Language Services 52 Baltic Travel Service 10 Bambola 24 Bandeli Alja 22 Bandeli Namai 26 Bar4Soul 27 Baroti Galerija 14 Berry Baldai 51 Bii Korys 51 BIG/BIG2 50 Birut Park 48 Bit 49 Blacksmith Museum 31 BNTP 53 Budys Yacht Club 53 Bus Station 7, 36, 42 Caf Klaipda 21 Castle Museum 31 Charlie Pizza 25 Church of the Assumption 47 ili Pica 25, 40, 46 Coast Guard 53 Coffee Inn 26, 46 Cukrain 26 Curonian Spit National Park Administration Smiltyn Visitor's Centre 53 DeCuba 46 Desperados 24 DFDS Seaways 10 DHL 49 DNB 52 Dog Museum 47 Dr. Who 28 Dunes 41 DU RATAI 9 Elada 52 Eldorado 22 Ethno-Cultural Centre 14 Ethnographic Fisherman's Museum 40 Europa 23 Europa City Aurora 16 Europcar 8 European Consumer Centre 52 Eurorenta 8 Euterp 15 Evangelical-Lutheran Church 41 Exile & Resistance Museum 47 Fabrik 28 Faksas 27 Fat Cat 22 Feliksas 45 Ferdinandas 25 Fielmann 52 First Ferry Terminal 12 Flamingo 23 Flea Market 50 Florika 50 Fortna 18 Forum Cinemas Akropolis 14 Friedricho Baras 27 Friedricho Picerija 25 Friedricho Restoranas 24 Friedricho Smukl 24 Friedricho Svei Namai 19 Gabija 42 Gamtos Perlas 16 German Soldiers' Cemetery 33 Gintarin Vaistin 52 Haemmerli 25 Herkaus Galerija 50 Herkus Kantas 27 Herman Blode Museum 40 Hertz 8 History Museum of Lithuania Minor 31 Homeland Farewell 34 Honolulu Bowling 28 Horse Riding Centre 53 Huang Gong 21 IF Draudimas 52 IKI 51 Info Hotel 44 Inkaro Kaimas 38 International Ferry Terminal 10 In Vino 40 Jewish Cemetery 35 Jewish Community Centre 35 Jing Bin Lou 22 Jogl 52 Ju Binlou 39 Jukunda 19 Juodasis Vilkas 24 Jrat 37 Jros Akmuo 46 Kart Nuoma 48 Katpdl 24 Keltininko Namas 22 KGB Memorial Room 33 Kin Bambukas 22 KKKC Parod Rmai 14 Klaipda Chamber of Commerce Industry & Crafts 52 Klaipda Concert Hall 14 Klaipda Drama Theatre 14 Klaipda Economic Development Agency 52 Klaipda Gym 53 Klaipda Hostel 19 Klaipda International Business Club 52 Klaipda Parachute Club 53 Klaipda Puppet Theatre 14 Klaipda & Sea Port Customs 53 Klaipda State Musical Theatre 14 Klaipda State Seaport Authority 53 Klaipda Tourist Information Centre 31 Klaipda University Botanical Garden 34 Klaipdos Mja 10 Kolibris 39 KPMG 52 Krantas Travel 10 Kubu 19 Kurpiai 27 Kuris 39 La Cl 22 Laas Steak House 46 La Terrasse 23 Laukini Vakar Salnas 47 Laum 39 Leika 27 Lemona 51 Liepiedis 24 Lithuanian Sea Museum 32 Litinterp 19 Litorina 36 LP Express 49 Lgn 16 Lja 22 Lux Express 8 Magnisima 16 Marginiai 51 Martini 28 Martynas Mavydas 34 Max Coffee 26 Memel Hotel 16 Memelis 30 Metro 28 Miko Namas 37 Molinis sotis 45 Monument to the Port Liberators 34 Morena 16 Muitin 28 Naglis 48 National Golf Resort 53 National Hotel 15 Nature Protection Museum 32 Navalis 15, 23, 26, 52 Nerija 23, 36 Neringa 34 Neringa History Museum 40 Newport 23 Nida Art Colony 38 Nida Culture & Tourism Information Centre 36, 38 Nidos Kempingas 38 Nidos Rojus 38 Nidos Seklyia 39 Nidos Smilt 36 Nidus 36 Notary Bureau 1 53 Oberhaus 53 Odontologijos Kabinetas 52 Office Day 51 Oktopusas 53 Old Market 50 Old Mill Hotel 18 Old Port Hotel 18 Omnitel 49 Pajrio Kempingas 20 Pajrio Laikai 26 Pajrio Svei Namai 44 Pajrio Viekelis 18 Palanga 44 Palanga Airport 8, 42 Palanga Summer Theatre 48 Palva 18 Paradise 30 Park Inn By Radisson Klaipda 18 Parko Galerija 14 Pair 39 Pas Juoz 46 P . Domaitis Gallery 32 Pda 14 Piano Barbecue 45 Pipita 25 Pirkli Namai 19 Pitliaus Skanstai 26 Pointas 26 Port by BarBar'a 28 Preliudija 19 Prieplaukos Vynin 40 Promenada 18 Pu Paunksnje 44, 45 Radisson Blu Hotel Klaipda 15, 52 Raktas 53 Relax 28 Resit 50 Respublikin Klaipdos Ligonin 52 Retro Knygos 50 Ridikai 22 Romada 51 Romdera 25 Roxy 28 Russian Consulate 52 Rta 51 Ryi Malnas 23 achmatin 44 Salon+ 52 Sculpture Park 48 Sea Bridge 48 Sea Rescue Station 47 Seaside Regional Park Administration 53 SEB Bankas 52 Second Ferry Terminal 12 Senamiesio Baras 24 Senasis Uostas 39 Sena Sodyba 39 Senoji Hansa 21 Senoji Vynin 30 Senukai 51 Simon Dach House 14, 19 Sixt 9 Skandalas 28 Sky 21 Terrace 28 Soya 21 Sportland 51 Stena Line 10 St. John's Church 33 St. Mary's Queen of Peace Church 33 Stora Antis 20, 23 Sudintas, Juodys ir Partneriai 53 Sundial 41 Sushi Express 24 Suvenyr Pasaulis 51 vyturio Men Dokas 14 vyturys 32 vyturys Arena 14 Swedbank 52 Taksoma 8 Tamsta 51 Technorama 49 TELE2 49 Teniso Aiktynas 48 The Beautiful Land Of Nevermind 10 Thomas Mann Memorial Museum 39, 40 Tomasella 51 Tourist Information Centre 44 Train Station 8 Trapiche Steakhouse 25 Trinyiai Park 35 Trys Mylimos 24 UPS 49 Vaga 50 Vasara 38 Vecekrug 15, 23 Veloma 51 Vero Caf 26 Vtra 18 Viktoras Varnas Museum 32 Vila Elvyra 38 Vila Ramyb 47 Vila Simona 38 Vilbra Foto 51 Vinvino 30 Viva la Vita 22 West Express 10 XII 28 XIX Amius 23 Yurga 51 alias Namas 44 Zigzag 10 iogelis 20 uvin 45 ydroji Liepsna 44

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