ZINE

NGLISH MAGA
BULGARIAS E

5.95 leva
ISSUE 97/2014

SLEYMAN

ISSUE 9 7/20 14

9 771312 859112

ISSN 1312-8590

08

Clar!s,, image builder - Photo Nicolas Claris

Clari

GKE

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keynote

dear vagabond

If elections really reflect the state of a society, then the 5 October

snap ballot in Bulgaria does not offer a very complimentary picture of
where this country is at at the moment. The election produced a very
fragmented parliament where eight parties will have to hammer out
a consensus on lawmaking issues, a difficult if not impossible task in
a country like Bulgaria. This indicates several things. Boyko Borisov's
GERB sidelined the Socialists, or BSP, by a large margin. The BSP,
which had been the largest party in Bulgaria so far and which has its
origins in the Cold War-era Bulgarian Communist Party, splintered a
fate that had previously befallen pronouncedly democratic, antiCommunist groupings such as the SDS, in the early 2000s. A number
of small parties emerged and made it past the 4 percent threshold.
Apart from the Reformist Bloc, an assemblage of centre-right parties
that favour further Euro-integration, these include the obviously
incongruous Bulgaria Without Censorship as well as extremist
nationalist pro-Russian parties such as Ataka and the National Front
for the Salvation of Bulgaria.
The most important question to be asked, however, is not whether
Bulgaria will have a relatively stable government in the foreseeable
future, nor whether this parliament will be able to hold on for long. It is
where Bulgaria's inchoate civil society stands in 2014.
The answer, sadly, is not very favourable. The record-low turnout
indicated that it is one thing to spew out politically charged statuses on
Facebook, another to use Twitter to organise flash mobs in the streets
of Sofia, and then a completely different thing to actually prompt
change through the process of democracy, that is at the ballot boxes.
To read more about why the quality of democracy in Bulgaria is on the
decline, turn to p14.

keynote

where to
find us

Autumn is a splendid time to explore the cultural and natural

attractions of Bulgaria. In this issue of Vagabond, we bring you four
travelogues. The first deals with one of the most amazing monuments
you will see in Europe. You might have guessed: The Founders of the
Bulgarian State composition near Shumen, in northeastern Bulgaria.
To find out why it was erected, at what cost, and why the Japanese are
so fascinated by it, turn to p32.
The second is a long article outlining the heritage of five centuries
of Ottoman rule in what is now Bulgaria. Ever wondered where all
these mosques, forts, stately 19th century houses, water fountains and
exquisite bridges come from? Turn to p50 to find out.
October and November are the best months to sample what the
Black Sea has to offer in terms of seafood. Take a long weekend to
Ahtopol and the southern stretch of Bulgaria's maritime border, and
you may be lucky. Local fishermen will have caught (hopefully) more
than three palamuds and you might be able to judge for yourself why
the Black Sea bonito tops the list of Bulgarian specialties. Turn to p44
for the details.
Turkish Ambassador Sleyman Gke has been in Bulgaria for
about a year, but during this time he has developed a very intimate
relationship with the country and its people. To find out why it is
important to build on the past while developing the future, turn to p18
for an in-depth interview.
In addition to all of the above, this issue contains a plethora of
reviews, fun, entertainment, quizzes and some wonderful fiction
writing by a young Bulgarian writer, Iren Levi, on p80.
Enjoy your Vagabond!

, Bulgaria's English Monthly, is distributed in

the airports in Sofia, Varna, Burgas, Plovdiv.
has a large subscription base among expatriates
in Bulgaria as well as people interested in Bulgaria in the UK,
the United States, Germany, and Scandinavia.
You can buy single copies of
at good
newsstands throughout Bulgaria
and on board the planes of AIR LAZUR.
In Sofia, you can also get
at the Red House
Culture and Debate Centre, at the Greenwich Book Center,
Sofia, and at other good book and music stores,
or order it at www.store.bg
is at the Goethe Institute and the
Tourist Information Centre, Sofia.
In addition,
is being distributed at the
following fine establishments
Arena di Serdica, Sofia
Best Western Hotel EXPO, Sofia
Bistro L'Etranger, Sofia
Bistro Orisha, Sofia
Boutique Hotel Crystal Palace, Sofia
British-Bulgarian Information and Language Centre, Sofia
Business Park Sofia, Sofia
Checkpoint Charlie Restaurant, Sofia
Costa Coffee, Sofia, Varna, Plovdiv and Burgas
Downtown Hotel, Sofia
First Investment Bank, Sofia
Gloria Mar Restaurant, Sofia
Grand Hotel Sofia, Sofia
Interhotel Bulgaria, Burgas
International Women's Club-Sofia
J.J. Murphy's, Sofia
Kanaal Bar, Sofia
Kempinski Hotel Grand Arena, Bansko
Kempinski Hotel Zografski, Sofia
Loran Gallery, Sofia
Maxido Shop, hotel Hilton, Sofia
Motto Bar & Club, Sofia
Park Hotel Sankt Peterburg, Plovdiv
Platinum Health Club, Sofia
Plaza Hotel, Varna
Princess Hotel, Sofia
Radisson SAS Grand Hotel, Sofia
Regus Business Center, Sofia
Residence Exclusive Club, Sofia
Sense Hotel, Sofia
Sheraton Sofia Hotel Balkan, Sofia
Spaghetti Kitchen, Sofia
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UniCredit Bulbank, Sofia
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and many others throughout the country.
Can't find your
?
Drop us a line at distribution@vagabond.bg,
stating where in Bulgaria you are, and we will make
sure your local newsstands are properly supplied.

imprint
PUBLISHER
Vagabond MEDIA
23 Budapest Street 1000 Sofia
phone: (+359 2) 983 3308
fax: (+359 2) 983 3358
editorial@vagabond.bg
www.vagabond.bg

contents
issue 97 / 2014

Tsvetelina Kovacheva
tsvetelina@vagabond.bg
Vanya Zlateva
vanya@vagabond.bg
CONTRIBUTORS
Bozhidara Georgieva

MANAGING EDITOR

Dimana Trankova

Anthony Georgieff
anthony@vagabond.bg

Iren Levi

Dimitar Ivanov

8. Quote-unquote

64. Balkans travel

People of Istanbul

Minka Vazkresenska
Stamen Manolov

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Elena Filipova
elena@vagabond.bg

PAPER

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Cover: 200 g/m2

Inner page: 100 g/m2

Jane Keating
PRINTED IN BULGARIA
GRAPHIC DESIGN
Gergana Shkodrova
shkodrova@vagabond.bg

Janet-45 Print & Publishing,

Plovdiv

9. Letter of the month

10. Joke of the month
12. Bulgaria's monthly quiz
14. Politics

Pyrrhic victory

80. Fiction

COPYRIGHT
DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS
GREECE
Jeni Georgieva
jeni@gogreece.bg

Vagabond Media. No part

of this publication may be reproduced in any form without
the express written consent of
the publisher

MEDIA SALES
Alexandra Spiridonova
a.spiridonova@vagabond.bg
Kristina Panayotova
kristina@vagabond.bg

Iren Levi

18. Interview
Sleyman Gke

86. Our winner

30. Where in Bulgaria are

you?

87. Highflights

Produced on Apple Macintosh

computer equipment only

128. Inside track

Svetlana Doncheva
svetlana@vagabond.bg

ZINE
NGLISH MAGA
BULGARIAS E

5.95 leva
ISSUE 97/2014

SLEYMAN

GKE

08

ISSN 1312-8590

ISSN 13128590

ISSUE 97/2014

Unless explicitly stated, the views and opinions expressed or implied in

, Bulgaria's English
Monthly, are intended for entertainment only. The publisher assumes no responsibility, direct or implied,
for any advertising content. Products and services mentioned are subject to change without prior notice.
You are strongly advised to make proper research and seek professional advice before making any financial
commitment in response to advertising material

31. High beam

If Bulgarian khans were sci-fi characters...

Pa-la-mud!
Ottoman Bulgaria

9 771312 859112

Pursuant to Article 7a, Paragraph 3 of the Bulgarian Compulsory Deposition of Printed and Other Works act
it is herewith declared that Anthony Georgieff is the sole proprietor of Vagabond Media Ltd.

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OTTOMAN HERITAGE IN BULGARIA > PALAMUD ATTACKS BLACK SEA COAST > FICTION BY IREN LEVI >
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cover by Anthony Georgieff

Quote-unQuote

"All parties
are lined up as the
women at the windows
of a certain Amsterdam
district, and offer
themselves."
VOLEN SIDEROV,

Ataka leader

"My phone is ringing the

whole day, everyone is greeting
me - Erdogan, the president of
Portugal... No other party has
beaten the Communists two
times in a row!"
BOYKO BORISOV

"Boyko Borisov
is as rightwing as the
English trafc."
Writer IVAYLO "NOISY" TSVETKOV

"We will be neither a

golden, nor a silver, nor a middle
nger in the new parliament."
KRASIMIR KARAKACHANOV, leader of the VMRO

MEDIA

r
e
ttthe h
e
l f nt
o o
m

SOFIA

TATYANA DONCHEVA ,
leader of Movement 21

BULGARI

"This parliament will be

worse than its predecessor. It is full of
garrulous people who can spit and spew, but
are unt for any lawmaking. If the Bulgarians
want such a pageant, let them have it."

VAGABON

Dear Vagabond,
Referring to your article "Building
New Ruins" (Vagabond No. 89), I visited
the Trayanovi Vrata fortress and was
stunned to see workmen frantically
trying to finish the 3.4 million EUfunded works that are clearly overrun.
This was after 6 pm in September.
Work on the site should have finished in
August 2014!
Massive new walls that bear little
resemblance to Byzantine ruins are
being built and there is scant evidence of
proper supervision. I could see ancient
tiles and bricks scattered as rubbish
and clearly no archaeological record or
salvage being done.
Such additions, towers and grandiose
rebuilds are hardly in the spirit of
sensitive historical conservation. Shame
on the authorities who have let this, and
presumably the other places listed in the
article, happen. They will regret this sort
of expensive and excessive enterprise in
years to come. As a former inspector of
ancient monuments, I know what I am
criticising here.


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and the Patriotic Front




11

10

L O R A N G A L L E R Y
P R E S E N T S:

Nikolay Maystorov's
Exhibition

THE WAY

boyko now
leGally 'Stupid'

Drawings Based on the Four Gospels

13 October 13 November 2014
Opening: 13 October, 6.30 pm

by Stamen Manolov

Blessed are the Poor in Spirit, Matthew

The Sofia Regional Court decided against

Plaintiff Boyko Borisov who had sued Nikolay
Barekov, a former friend, over a statement
Barekov made in 2013 that Boyko was
"stupid." The court ruled that calling someone
stupid is an offence as long as it is perceived
personally. Boyko was not in the TV studio
when Barekov called him stupid and did not
watch the broadcast as he was on an airplane.
Witnesses claim that he got angry later when
he was told he had been called stupid. To
express that, he took off his jacket and tossed
it. Borisov's close aides claim that whenever he
takes off his jacket and tosses it, he is usually
quite angry.
Defendant Nikolay Barekov, now the leader
of the Bulgaria Without Censorship political
party and an EMP, demanded at the beginning
of the court proceedings to have a court expert
interpret the definitions of the word "stupid."
In Bulgarian, tap usually means stupid, but it
can also mean blunt, uncouth, with limited
intellectual capacity, slow to respond, muted,

desperate and, in sound recordings, lacking

treble. The court overruled the request.
Borisov now has to pay 355 leva, or 175 euros,
in court expenses. He had demanded 10,000
leva in damages.
Barekov and Borisov were close friends
for several years, a situation which Barekov
changed abruptly just ahead of the May 2013
election. He explained his move with "tossing
the pancake the other way round." From that
time on he became one of Borisov's most
outspoken critics.
The court ruling now comes at a time when
Barekov may be "tossing the pancake" once
more. The Bulgaria Without Censorship leader
offered his support to Borisov's GERB in a future
government. Borisov responded that Barekov,
unlike the Socialist Party and the Reformist
Bloc, had manifested "political high class."
Bulgarian law, unlike common law, is not
based on precedent, but legal experts surmise
that from now on Boyko Borisov may legally
be referred to as "stupid."

The Last Supper, Matthew

On 13 October, Loran Art Gallery presents

the "The Way," a new cycle of drawings by the
noted Bulgarian artist Prof. Nikolay Maystorov.
These works of art interpret the Four Gospels
by the apostles Luke, Matthew, Mark and John,
but they are not mere illustrations of the text.
They paraphrase the traditional Biblical image
system - following the story of the Christ's
Way to Golgotha, Prof. Maystorov reveals the
reincarnations of Man enlightened by God's
wisdom. The accent is on the human in the
idea of the Son of God - only by going all
of the predestined Way, which is dotted with
suffering and compassion to the "poor in spirit,"
can Christ achieve divinity. Prof. Maystorov
says, that drawing was a spontaneous intuitive
beginning as the most adequately expression of
what the text implied to the reader. The author's
trademark expressive language is a projection of
this intuition, an unaltered provocation to the
consciousness and the senses of the viewer.
.
Sofia, 16 Oborishte St
(entrance from Vasil Aprilov Street)
Monday-Saturday from 11 am to 7 pm
Sunday from 11 am to 6 pm
phone: 02 483 0877

Father, if You are willing, let this cup pass from Me,
Matthew

galleryloran@yahoo.com
www.galleryloran.com

12

fiction13

bulGaria'S monthly QuiZ

where
business

Take our test to doublecheck

Anthony Georgieff

think
you know
bulGaria
and the
bulGarianS?
Bulgaria's railway museum

by Bozhidara Georgieva

1
2
3

1. How many parties

entered the Bulgarian
parliament after the
5 October snap elections?
A. Eight
B. Six
C. Twelve
2. How many of the
people living in Sofia are
foreigners, according to
Eurostat?
A. 1 percent
B. 10 percent
C. 15 percent
3. Where in Bulgaria
was the latest season of
Survivor China shot?
A. In Vidin
B. In the Rhodope
C. In Lyulin

CHECK YOUR ANSWERS ON P17

5
6

4. What does the

Bulgarian expression
"It will happen during a
cuckoo summer" mean?
A. It will happen the next
accounting period
B. It will happen only
through my dead body
C. It will never happen
5. The pumpkin pie in
Bulgarian is called
A. zelnik
B. tikvenik
C. banitsa
6. Which Bulgarian city
will be the European
Capital of Culture 2019?
A. Sofia
B. Varna
C. Plovdiv

8
9

7. Which Bulgarian
football team is
competing in the
2014/2015 Champions
League?
A. Levski
B. Ludogorets
C. CSKA
8. Where is Bulgaria's
only Railway Museum?
A. In Ruse
B. In Stara Zagora
C. In Gorna Oryahovitsa
9. Bulgaria's run of the
Danube is long...
A. 471 kms
B. 800 kms
C. 1,300 kms

the elizabeth kostova Foundation

Bulgaria's English
and
Monthly, cooperate in order to enrich
the English language
with translations
of contemporary
Bulgarian writers.
Every year we give
you the chance to
read the work of a
dozen young and
sometimes not-soyoung Bulgarian
writers that the EKF considers original,
refreshing and valuable. Some of them
have been translated in English for the
rst time. The EKF has decided to make
the selection of authors' work and
to ensure they get rst-class English
are
translation, and we at
only too happy to get them published
in a quality magazine. Enjoy our ction
pages.

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14

FIRE SAFETY

politicS

15

pyrrhic
victory

Bulgaria's snap election fails

to produce stable parliament
by Anthony Georgieff

To understand why Bulgaria is faced with

further political instability and possibly yet
another general election one needs to look
at the larger picture of life in this country
that has struggled with democracy for exactly
quarter of a century now.
First, to politics. The 5 October snap
election was the second in about 15 months.
The first, in May 2013, had been prompted
by Boyko Borisov, then prime minister, who
resigned amid spreading protests against
poverty and the inability of his government
to handle it that culminated in a dozen
Bulgarians publicly committing the terrible
act of self-conflagration. Borisov at the time
felt his party, GERB, had not lost all its
charisma, as epitomised by Borisov himself,
and called the early election hoping his
popularity was still high.
It was but not enough. Borisov's party
failed to garner sufficient support, and
a fragile coalition between the BSP, or
Bulgarian Socialist Party, the Turkishdominated DPS, or Movement for Rights
and Freedoms, and the extremist nationalist
Ataka was installed in Sofia.
No one thought that this sort of coalition

would be long-lived and the government

did its best to dispel any doubts that it could.
One of the first things it did was to appoint
Delyan Peevski, an MP for the DPS and a
media mogul, to a powerful security position
giving him direct access to controlling the
fight against organised crime.
Many Bulgarians, mainly in Sofia, could
not stomach that. They felt that appointing
Peevski to chair the DANS, roughly speaking
Bulgaria's version of the FBI, was like
appointing a child molester to the position
of a school headmaster. Street rallies ensued.
The summer of 2013 protesters, unlike the
depressed and poor Bulgarians scratching
to make a living who had been torching
themselves a few months previously, were
"beautiful and clever," as one writer billed
them. They made a good impression. Some
of them spoke English and carried placards
that could be understood by foreign visitors.
They cleaned up their bottles after their daily
rallies in front of the government building in
Central Sofia. The police were under orders
to be generally tolerant, so no serious incident
or violence occurred, in sharp contrast to the
way Borisov had handled such matters during

his tenure. The protesters, furthermore, were

liked by the media.
What they demanded was transparency,
an end to Bulgaria's long tradition of what
they called Behind-the-Scene-ness, the
sort of cloak-and-dagger attitudes that had
become the rule rather than the exception
in this Balkan nation of about 7 million.
What they failed to understand, however,
was that without a proper political platform
and without solid support in the provinces,
any effort to change the Bulgarian status quo
would result in a return of Boyko Borisov and
his GERB.
Their act was interpreted by many media
and even by some foreign diplomats to be
a manifestation of Bulgaria's inchoate civil
society.
But what is civil society? Is it just the thrust
of a few, perhaps a dozen thousand people to
block the traffic in Sofia and perform light
musical comedy acts to the bemusement of
onlookers? Is it not measured, arithmetically,
by the number of citizens going to the
ballots at elections and casting their votes for
politicians, young and old, that have coherent
agendas designed to achieve concrete
political, economic and social targets?
The first sign of the protesters' fallacy
came soon after the beginning of the 2013
street rallies. It happened in Varna, the Black
Sea coast town that for various reasons had
become a hotbed of dissent. A by-election
there failed to convince many to go to the
ballots. In fact, the turnout in Varna was
record low.
So?
The protests in Sofia continued, an
increasing number of Bulgarians felt
disillusioned with the parties in power, and
the senior partner in the Oresharski coalition,

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16

politicS

the BSP, splintered. The European Parliament

elections in May 2014 showed that Boyko
Borisov's GERB was still the strongest
political grouping in Bulgaria. It was the clear
winner.
The BSP, the DPS and Ataka realised their
time was over. The coalition stepped down,
a caretaker government was appointed by
President Rosen Plevneliev, a former GERB
minister, and a new snap election was called.
The political tableau it produced is even
more dysfunctional than the previous one.
As many as eight parties made it past the
4 percent threshold. These include the
Reformist Bloc, what some consider to be a
genuine centre-right agglomeration of small
pro-Western parties that favour democracy
and reforms. But they also include two radical
nationalist parties, Ataka and the NFSB, or
National Front for the Salvation of Bulgaria,
and an incongruous political grouping led by
a former journalist, Nikolay Barekov, who had
been first a close friend and then a fierce critic
of Boyko Borisov. They even include ABV, a
political group founded by former Socialist
President Georgi Parvanov.
Boyko Borisov again emerged as the clear
winner, but in the immediate aftermath of the
election it transpired that his was a pyrrhic
victory. GERB fell short, with a significant
margin, of being able to rule on its own.
Borisov indicated he understood. He refused
to give a press conference on election night,
breaching the tradition of having all the
political parties that enter a new parliament
speak out. On the following day, while his
closest associates did begin to speak out,
he was seen wearing his football suit and
jogging boots in the corridor. He was off
sweating out. The man, obviously, felt hurt.
Any coalition with the other parties would be
extremely precarious if not impossible chiefly

politicS

because one of the conditions most other

parties insist on is not to have Boyko Borisov
as prime minister again.
The 5 October election was a failure because
it did not achieve what Bulgaria needed most:
stability and a desire to reform everything
from education and health care to the energy
sector. But it was a failure, first and foremost,
for Bulgaria's civil society: fewer people
bothered to go to the ballots than they had
done even the previous year.
Now, for the more general conclusion.
Why are not Bulgarians interested in voting,
provided voting in elections is the main way
in a Western-style democracy to prompt
change?
The answers to this question are,
unfortunately, not very pleasant. They
are to be sought in the peculiar Bulgarian
"national character," modelled largely under
Communism, in the mix of preconceived
notions rammed home for generations,
irrational thinking and sheer prejudice that
have come to characterise the Bulgarians for
many years and that, as a rule, are mutually
exclusive.
Here are some of them. Bulgarians are
rebels. They have always been, but they rebel
at the tax office or while sitting in the Sofia
traffic. They rebel at home, in front of the
TV set while they drink their rakiyas and
eat their shopskas. OK, in recent years, some
of the more outspoken would sit in front of
a computer and send out political statuses
on Facebook. But the political system,
unfortunately, cannot yet be changed through
FB.
Bulgarians want rights and democracy.
Yet, 25 years of democracy (in the sense of
multiparty elections) has left a majority so
disillusioned with the democratic process
that they increasingly demand a strong

hand, someone like Borisov, to show up and

put things in order in a no-nonsense way.
Internationally, this can be seen in the fact
that Russia's Vladimir Putin is so popular in
Bulgaria.
Bulgarians want change. They want better
pay and better conditions, but they lament
the closure of that huge Communist-era
metallurgy plant that depended exclusively on
Soviet ore to manufacture heavy machinery.
No one needs heavy machinery any longer
and the Soviet Union ceased to exist 25 years
ago. And that plant was losing money in the
first place...
Bulgarians want an end to corruption and
nepotism. But they know that the moment
they elect more than three people to rule
them the same Behind-the-Scenes-ness will
come.

17

Bulgarians are atheist, regardless of the

amount of senior statesmen TV cameras show
kissing the hands of Orthodox clergymen
on high holidays, in the sense that they are
confident they have their fates in their own
hands. Yet, they are convinced that nothing
depends on them. Not at the ballot boxes.
There, everything has been predetermined
behind the scenes. That's why they do
not bother to show up at all. Instead, the
enlightened younger Bulgarians show up at
Sofia Airport equipped with one-way tickets
to Europe.

the correct answers to the questions

on p12: 1. a; 2. a; 3. b; 4. c; 5. b;
6. c; 7. b; 8. a; 9. a

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www.spaggo.com

12 Nikola Obrazopisov St
for reservations: +359 888 441 595
for recommendations: + 359 888 662 206

18

Sleyman Gke
Turkey's ambassador building
on the past, looking to the future
interview and photography by Anthony Georgieff

19

20

interview

Having spent a quarter of a century in the

Turkish diplomatic service, including postings
in Afghanistan, Italy, Pakistan, the UK and the
United States, career diplomat Sleyman Gke
arrived at the end of last year to take up his first
ambassadorial position in Sofia. A graduate
of International Relations at the University
of Ankara, Sleyman Gke is experienced
sufficiently to know that even though Bulgaria
and Turkey are neighbours that share a common
history, and are furthermore now allies in
NATO and partners in the EU, just mentioning
Turkey in Bulgaria is like walking on thin
ice if you do it to the wrong audience. While I
am being entertained in impeccable English, I
catch myself wondering what it must be like for
a senior Turkish official to be confronted, on a
daily basis, with the usual mixture of mistrust
and outright suspicion that many Bulgarians feel
towards their neighbours. But Sleyman Gke
dispels my thoughts.
Bulgarians are generally very hospitable,
embracing and welcoming. I have received
positive vibes at all levels: national, local
and personal. There is a huge prospect for
cooperation between Turkey in Bulgaria, in
terms of investment, industry, tourism and
so forth. Merchants, industrialists, small and
medium-sized businesses always find a way to
work with each other. They have many success
stories to tell.

21

We also want to have those success stories

at the formal level, supported by the
administration and the governments of the
two states. The huge potential I referred to
can be unleashed and utilised better at the
formal level. Then, investment and trade will
multiply.
Have you experienced any anti-Turkish
sentiments in Bulgaria not as a diplomat, but
as a Turk?
I wouldn't say anti-Turkish, but yes I should
characterise this as perhaps a sense of unease, at
least sometimes. I suppose certain things can
get difficult to accomplish owing to a lack of
ease, based on certain prejudices. That lack of
trust stems from the long decades of the Cold
War.
The feeling of unease is probably coupled
with estrangement. The perception in both
Turkey and Bulgaria of each other was just
that, the "other," the "adversary." By definition,
the adversary was profiled as "bad," if not "evil,"
"counterproductive" rather than trustworthy.
I first came to Bulgaria in July 1980. At that
time, Bulgaria was a very different country.
Hardline Communism and strictly toeing the
Soviet line brought it in a league with Eastern
Germany. Things have come a long way since
then. Turkey was an adamant supporter of
Bulgaria's bid to join NATO. In fact, Turkey
made it a condition that no other country

22

interview

could join the Alliance before Bulgaria and

Romania did.
In Bulgaria, it seems to me, there is an
underlying desire to settle scores with the past.
I do not mean just history, but the past, any
kind of past. It can be on a personal, or on a
family, or on a local or even on the national
level. I suppose deep down many Bulgarians
are at unease with the past. Inevitably,
everything that's related to Turkey sooner or
later boils down to that.
Let me put the question in a different way.
Let's look at non-political issues, such as the
preservation of heritage. Whenever there is an
official or unofficial statement in Turkey about
the need to preserve Ottoman heritage, there
is always someone in Bulgaria that snaps back
that Turkey wants to resurrect the Ottoman
Empire.
This is of course not only untrue and
misleading, but also silly. What we mean is the
need to preserve our common heritage. We have
a very long common history, not only with
Bulgaria but with all other modern states that
are now in the Balkans that were once a part
of the Ottoman Empire Greece, Macedonia,
Albania, Kosovo, Bosnia and Herzegovina,
Serbia, Romania, and beyond. Every common
history spawns good as well as bad memories,
which is perfectly normal. The important
thing is to construct a fair memory. If you have
lived together with someone for hundreds
of years, you establish a common cultural
heritage. Your present and your future are to
some extent based on it.

23

The world in 2014 is not what it was in

1914 or in 1814. The world we are trying to
build is forward-looking, creating prosperity,
wealth, mutual understanding, empathy and
respect. Our common heritage not only binds
us together, but provides important milestones
for our common future.
One important thing I should mention here
is that we are not only talking about Ottoman
heritage in Bulgaria, but also about Bulgarian
heritage in Turkey.
Istanbul is the place where the first
independent Bulgarian Church was established,
by special decree of the Sultan, in the middle of
the 19th century. Until that time, the Bulgarian
Church was subservient to the Greek Orthodox
authority in Phanar. One of the symbols of this
is the marvellous St Stephen Church on the
bank of the Golden Horn. Entirely cast in iron,
it has been listed as a monument of culture.
The Municipality of Istanbul has spent millions
of euros to renovate it. Cultural heritage adds
to the beauty and enriches the scope of our
common history.
There are other examples as well. There
is a large plot of land in Sisli, in Central
Istanbul, that is being returned to a Bulgarian
foundation. There is about a dozen properties
in Istanbul and in Edirne that are being
returned to Bulgarian foundations. The total
value of those is in the range of several hundred
million euros.
Until now, the Bulgarian minority
foundations had to turn to expats, or to
Bulgaria, or to the local authorities in Turkey

24

interview

for sponsorship and financial patronage. They

do not need to any more. Henceforth, they
are self-sufficient and financially autonomous.
We have no problems with it. On the contrary,
we encourage that. Because, civil society
sustaining democracy is a bottom-up practice.
This is great!
Seen through Turkish eyes, is Bulgaria any
different from the other Balkan countries that
were once a part of the Ottoman Empire?
I think, yes. The main reasons again stem
from the Cold War. Bulgaria was in the
Warsaw Pact and Turkey was in NATO. None
of the other Balkan countries were as loyal to
the Warsaw Pact as Bulgaria. In those days,
Yugoslavia was not a member at all, Albania
left in the early 1960s, and Romania was
maverick. It all comes down to the prejudices
accumulated in those years.
During the Cold War, Bulgaria's border with
Turkey was sealed off with a barbed-wire fence to
prevent Bulgarian refugees from crossing over. After
1989, it was dismantled. In 2014, Bulgaria built a
new barbed-wire fence with Turkey, supposedly to
ward off third-country asylum-seekers.
My personal response was one of amazement,
though I was a part of the Bulgarian-Turkish
team discussing the projected construction of
the fence last year. We said to our Bulgarian
counterparts that we have nothing against
the fence provided it complied with the 1967
border agreement. It includes some technical
specifications, like the distance to the actual
borderline and that it should be entirely in
Bulgarian territory, and it stipulates that any

installation like this should be temporary. If

the Bulgarians feel more comfortable with
the fence in place, then that's fine. We are a
neighbouring country, so we would love to
make you happier and more secure.
The problem, however, is that Syrian and
other third-country asylum-seekers in Bulgaria
are about 8,000-10,000. In Turkey we have
close to 1.5 million. It is obvious that there
aren't hundreds of thousands of asylum-seekers
in Bulgaria owing to the border security
cooperation between Turkey and Bulgaria,
and to the efforts of the Turkish police to
prevent illegal migration into Bulgaria. One
could fairly easily establish that it is the
good-neighbourly cooperation, not physical
barriers of any kind, that actually brings about
desirable results. So, I think the "security fence"
is quite unnecessary.
Bulgaria has a sizeable Turkish minority. In
fact, proportionately, Bulgaria is the EU country
with the largest amount of Turks living in it. In
absolute terms, Germany has more, but all of the
Turks in Germany are second or third generation
immigrant whereas in Bulgaria they have been here
for close to 600 years. Does the Turkish government
have any specific policy towards them?
We see the Turks in Bulgaria as a cornerstone
in Turkish-Bulgarian relations. Each and every
one of them is a bridge between our nations,
and each and every one of them evokes our
common history and heritage, a building stone
in our common future.
What issues will you prioritise during your
tenure in Bulgaria?

Energy is one of them. We plan to extend

the gas and oil pipelines from the Caspian
Sea through Bulgaria. This would add to this
country's energy security. Energy security by
definition is not diversification of routes, but
diversification of suppliers. This doesn't mean
that Turkey is diametrically opposed to the
Russian South Stream project. We aren't. But
diversification of suppliers will add to the overall
energy situation in Bulgaria and in the region.
Also, remember that it will add to Bulgarias
strategic importance and security.
Tourism and related issues. There is a huge
potential between the two countries. Last year over
1.5 million Bulgarian citizens visited Bulgaria, and
800,000 Turkish citizens visited Bulgaria.
Then, infrastructure. As you know, the
world's largest airport is under construction
west of Istanbul. The project will be finished
in three phases, first phase by the end of 2017.
By passenger numbers handled, it will be
twice as large as Atlanta Airport in the United
States 180 million passengers per year to be
precise. This will bring huge opportunities to
Bulgaria because we are immediate neighbours.
Another example is the high-speed train that
will connect the Caucuses to the Balkans
through Turkey, being part of the 21st Century
Silk Road on an axis from London to Beijing.
It will come to the Bulgarian border in two
years' time. It should then be obvious to all
sensible minds that we should sit down and talk
seriously, without any prejudice and emotional
impediment, to take right decisions together,
for the mutual benefit of our two countries.

phone: 0888 597 210

26

27

Smart Group: A lesson of

being successful Turkish
investor in Bulgaria
Halil Demirdag on Bulgaria's business climate and potential

Being a founding member of the TurkishBulgarian Chamber of Commerce and the

owner of Smart Group, a Turkish Investment
company, lately invested in green enegy, is
just a bit of the things that Rize-native Halil
Demirdag has achieved since he arrived in
Bulgaria in 1998. A graduate of the prestigious
Boazii University in Istanbul, Mr Demirdag
was granted a Bulgarian citizenship in 2009
for his investments in the country. In 2013 he
was awarded as the Green Person of 2013 for
his efforts of developing renewable energy in
Bulgaria. Founded in 2009, Smart Energy
Group is a company of Smart Group, which
now owns 43MW in several photovoltaic
power plants, in several countries. The
company is an example for successful Turkish
business in Bulgaria, and Mr Demirdag is now
on the list of the top specialists in green energy
in the country.
What is the secret of creating one of the
most forward-thinking companies in modern
Bulgaria?
The secret is well-known: it is work,
desideration and perseverance. Theoretical
knowledge, combined with the knowledge
of the company's specialists, plus plenty of
tenacity. Special attention to details and the
quality of execution. Good motivation of the
employees to give their best. Believing in success
and inspiring the company staff. Complete
dedication to a cause, workaholism and energy

that one pours into a project are always awarded

with success... sooner or later!
Why did you move to Bulgaria?
I came here 15 years ago with the clear goal to
do business. At the time Bulgaria offered, and is
still offering, many and diverse opportunities.
The investments I made and brought to
Bulgaria inspired the Minister of Economics at
the time to propose to the Bulgarian President
that I am given a Bulgarian citizenship. As I have
said before, for us Bulgaria is the centre of the
Balkans, and this brought us here. Despite the

difficulties, success came quickly. In the Balkans

there are 11 countries with combined population
of about 72 million. Turkey alone has a
population of about 80 million. This makes a
common market over 150 million people, which
is very good for volume business.
Is there a future for further development of
the Turkish-Bulgarian economy relationships?
The bilateral economy relations have always
been important for both countries. That is
why the Turkish-Bulgarian Business Council
was created to the Economic Relations Board
(DEIK) in Turkey. Years ago, Bulgarian
investors in Turkey could be counted on the
fingers of one hand, and today they are more
than 182. In 2013 only, they invested more than
$28 million.
The Turkish investments in Bulgaria for the
last 15 years are 521.5 million euros, and the
direct investments continue to increase year
by year. I think that these data shouldn't be
underestimated by the Bulgarian government.
The bilateral trade should be constantly
encouraged. The road of Turkey to Europe is
via Bulgaria. Bulgaria is a country attracting
many big Turkish investors because it is an EU
member and because of the customs union
between Turkey and the EU which removed
tariffs in bilateral trade in some sectors.
The location of both Bulgaria and Turkey is
strategically important, and the extraction of
dividends by both sides is inevitable.
What is your advice to Turkish investors
contemplating on whether to invest in
Bulgaria?
I recommend Bulgaria as a good place for
investments, as the country has well educated
and intelligent young workforce. As an EU
member, Bulgaria provides predictable policy
and guaranteed business conditions. Tax policy
is very favourable, as corporate tax is 10%.
Turkey is the key door to Middle East markets,

and is crucial for the Bulgarian economy

development! In 2013, Turkey was Bulgaria's
fourth biggest trade partner, but as far as exports
are concerned, Turkish export amounts to 10%,
second only to that of Germany. For the past 10
years, Bulgarian export to Turkey has increased
from 565.1 million euros to 1,955.5 million euros,
with a yearly growth of 12%. The statistics about
import of Bulgaria from Turkey has increased
from 414.8 million euros to 1,194.1 million
euros. For the last two years, it grew with 11%.
The data is serious and is hard to be neglected.
The problem of Bulgarian market is its small
volume and the weak buying power.
My advice to Turkish investors to Bulgaria is
simple: chose good and reliable partner who
knows the Bulgarian market, has the required
stand and contacts, has been in the business for
long enough, has a proven name and principles,
and, of course, has the best ideas. If we are more
creative, we could work together so easily. Our
lifestyle is similar, our food is similar, we have
fun in similar ways. We even don't look that
different from one another, after all, we are just
real komu (neighbours).

Smart Group
Sofia, 35 Nikola Vaptsarov Blvd, floor 3, office 3
phone: +359 2 962 71 51
www.smart.com.tr
www.veistroy.com
www.smart-solar.eu
office@smart-solar.eu
office@veistroy.com
office@smartenergyint.com

28

advertorial

advertorial

Metro Tourism:
To know the way
":
"

Regardless of whether you plan a summer vacation on the
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an exotic destination, Metro Tourism is the company you
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organised coach holidays at Turkey, winning the loyalty of its
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, " " ,
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Which is your most popular destination as a
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For our clients, Metro Tourism is mainly
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holidays the whole year round, summer
vacations, and regular international coach lines
organised by our transport branch. We have six
daily coaches to Istanbul.
How do you explain Bulgarians' interest to the
destination?
Turkey is one of the most popular
destinations on the Bulgarian travel market
because the country's tourist product is up to

-
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29

the highest standards of service, has excellent

value for money, and is close to Bulgaria.
How Metro Tourism can help us to have a trip
or vacation filled with positive emotions and
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Metro Tourism strives to offer quality
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Which is the biggest challenge in the work of

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In the past few years we have been
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New European destinations will be opened
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phone: +359 2 931 1292
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QuiZ

31

Anthony Georgieff

30

where
in bulGaria?
by Stamen Manolov

UNITY IN DIVERSITY

: 4,95

EUROPE

Where in Bulgaria are you?

WALL-TO-WALL POETRY

This is one of Bulgaria's most popular seaside resorts at a time

when... very few visitors come. The 6 December, in Orthodox
hagiography the feast day of St Nicholas revered also as
the protector of seamen, is celebrated here with particular
enthusiasm as the majority of those locals not involved with
summertime tourism are actually fishermen and live on the sea.
The celebrations involve a huge party at the harbour, with free
fish soup and plenty of drinks, some blessing of ships by the
local priest, and in good weather a free cruise around the islands
in the bay.

Email your answers to

editorial@vagabond.bg
and you can win a copy of
Wall-to-Wall,
Poetry of Europe,
Vagabond's guide
to the poetry walls of Sofia.

WALL-TO-WALL

POETRY EUROPE

UNITY
IN DIVERSITY

High Beam is a series of articles, initiated by Vagabond Magazine, with the generous support
of the America for Bulgaria Foundation, that aims to provide details and background of places,
cultural entities, events, personalities and facts of life that are sometimes difficult to understand
for the outsider in the Balkans. The ultimate aim is the preservation of Bulgaria's cultural heritage
including but not limited to archaeological, cultural and ethnic diversity.

32

33

If Bulgar Khans
Were Sci-Fi
Characters...
Weddings and 'falling objects' mix
at Founders of Bulgaria monument
in Shumen
by Dimana Trankova; photography by Anthony Georgieff

34

high beam

Japanese tourists just love the Founders of Bulgaria monument in

Shumen, the woman in the ticket office says. The Japanese, the lady
continues, are smitten. They stare and stare, and only when they get
over their initial shock, do they take out their cameras. The lady at the
city council-run ticket office was equally bewildered by the reaction of
the Japanese until one day a guide explained.
For a Japanese, the 21 figures of the Founders of Bulgaria monument
are like the real-life embodiment of the sci-fi super robots from anime
classics such as Voltron and Beast King GoLion, or the Transformers.
What a surprise to go to Bulgaria, of all places, and find all your
favourite characters sculpted in stone and concrete!
The creators of this monument were completely unaware of the
effect they would produce to the Japanese, however. They were just
aiming to create the most imposing monument they could to glorify
the foundation of the Bulgarian state. The main target were the
Bulgarians themselves. They needed to be impressed beyond belief.
Legends had to be created. To do that, the masterbuilders of what is
possible the largest concrete monument in Europe subscribed to a
peculiar style in the 1970s-1980s, which could roughly be described
as Socialist Cubistic Expressionism with a dash of Futurism. OK, to
simplify, let's just call it Communist megalomania.
The idea of building a gigantic monument on top of the Shumen
Plateau, at an altitude of about 450 metres, was promoted in 1977.
This was the time when Lyudmila Zhivkova, daughter of Communist
dictator Todor Zhivkov, was culture minister. A woman led by
ambition, patriotism and an interest in Eastern mysticism, Zhivkova
set in motion a incredibly comprehensive, incredibly vast and
incredibly expensive plan for the celebration of the 1,300 years of the
foundation of the Bulgarian state, which had happened in 681. This
included, but was not limited to, the organisation of international
conferences, lavish celebrations, and erecting bombastic buildings and
monuments celebrating Bulgarian history and culture.
Shumen was chosen as the site for a monument to the founders
of the Bulgarian state because it is close to the ruins of Pliska and
Preslav, the first capitals of Bulgaria between the 680s and the 970s.
Unlike Pliska and Preslav, which are on the plain, Shumen is at the
foot of a high plateau, so a monument on top of it would be seen for
miles around. The plateau was also the location of a settlement and a
fortress dating from the 12th Century BC to the 14th Century AD,
another example of the millennia-old history of Bulgaria.

35

12
3

Previous spread: King Simeon the

Great

1 Khan Asparuh's horse. A few

years ago one of its legs fell down

2 Scribes from the entourage of

King Simeon

3 After passing by the early

rulers of Bulgaria, the visitor

ends in front of a huge mosaic
dedicated to Christianisation and
development of the Bulgarian
alphabet

36

high beam

After a tough competition, the project of sculptors Krum

Damyanov and Ivan Slavov, architects Georgi Gechev and Blagoy
Ivanov, and artists Vladislav Paskalev and Stoyan Velev was selected.
Construction began in November 1977 and the finished monument
was unveiled on 28 November 1981. Lyudmila Zhivkova did not live
to cherish the moment, as she had died on 21 July the same year.
The Founders of Bulgaria monument is just incredible. Angular
and made of exposed concrete, it is 140 metres long and 70 metres
high. For the construction 2,400 tonnes of reinforced steel bars and
50,000 cubic metres of concrete were used.
For the monument, the architects chose two tall concrete structures
with zigzag outlines, symbolising the upward spiral of Bulgarian
national evolution. The narrow passage between them is inhabited
by huge granite sculptures of early Bulgarian rulers and their retinue,
a striking gallery of grey angular faces on top of over-proportioned
bodies.
First in the line is, of course, Khan Asparuh. Hailed as the founder
of Bulgaria, he brought the Bulgarians south of the Danube,
made alliances with the Slavic tribes who were living there, won
a decisive battle against the Byzantines and signed a peace treaty
which legitimised his state as an international political entity. In the
Shumen monument, however, Khan Asparuh looks more menacing
than stately, with his deep eyes and huge Transformers-like arm
pointing at the sky. The horse behind him, which looks like it exists
in at least six dimensions, adds to the sci-fi atmosphere.
Further along the concrete corridor, perched at a height of 18
metres, are Asparuh's descendants, the khans Tervel and Krum. They
look as menacing and grim as their predecessor, and things do not
change much when you finally reach Prince Boris and his son, King
Simeon the Great. It was Prince Boris who compelled the Bulgarians
to adopt Christianity, while King Simeon extended the Bulgarian
borders far and wide, encouraging culture to such an extent that his
reign was dubbed The Golden Age of Bulgaria. The years of their
rule were also the time when the Slavic alphabet was adopted and
developed in Bulgaria.

37

Top: The monument overlooks

Shumen and its surroundings, the
core of early Medieval Bulgaria
Bottom: A massive lion adorns the
top of the monument. According
to urban legend, it is hollow

38

high beam

Christianity, military power and the alphabet are the main themes
in this part of the monument. When you look up, the concrete walls
form a cross against the sky. A huge mosaic in black, white, red,
gold and blue is dedicated to the evolution of the Slavic alphabet, its
creators Cyril and Methodius, and their disciples. This is the largest
mosaic triptych in Europe, a task which took 12 artists to complete.
To get a good look at the monument's next imposing detail,
you have to leave its concrete bowels and take several the more,
the better steps away. Look up. A 1,000 tonnes lion made of
2,000 pieces of granite adorns the highest part of the monument.
According to local lore, the lion commanding an imposing vista over
Shumen and indeed a large chunk of northeastern Bulgaria, is
hollow, and has an elevator inside one of the supporting columns.
Todor Zhivkov treated visiting Soviet leader Leonid Brezhnev to
coffee in the lion's mouth...
Todor Zhivkov attended the opening of the monument, an event
seen as the peak of the celebrations of the 1,300th anniversary of
the founding of Bulgaria. Many of the Communist top brass were
in attendance, and the series of ribbon-cutting events included the
opening of a brand new aluminium factory in Shumen, and the new
history museum in Preslav.

39

The mosaic triptych is the biggest

in Europe, and was made by 12
artists. One of them decided to
mark the news of the birth of his
son in an unusual way: he placed a
blue pebble, instead of a black one,
in the beard of St Cyril, the author
of the first Slavonic alphabet

40

41

42

high beam

Even at the time, many people in Shumen were far from happy with
the Founders of Bulgaria monument. Today some citizens complain
that this showpiece of past glory was built at the expense of ordinary
people, who were suffering severe shortages of anything from
tomatoes and toilet paper to housing. Estimates of how many blocks
of flats might have been built with the reinforced concrete used for
the monument vary from five to 12.
Others, however, are proud of the thing, which is on the list of
the 100 National Tourist Sites of the Bulgarian Tourist Union, and
the mosaics and the grey figures of the early Bulgarian rulers are a
popular spot for wedding pictures. The tourist office has responded
to the demand by offering wedding ceremonies inside or around the
monument.
After the collapse of Communism in 1989, and in the following
decades of economic difficulties, there was no money for the
maintenance of the monument. The elements took over and in 2006,
one of the legs of Khan Asparuh's horse collapsed. It was replaced
with a replica made of artificial stone, but maintenance remains a
problem. If she notices you, the lady at the ticket office will charge
you a few leva for an entry ticket.
There are two ways to reach the Founders of Bulgaria monument.
You can climb all the 1,300 steps of the grandiose staircase which
starts with four griffons and a water cascade at the theatre in
Shumen. The other option is to go by car; the monument is about six
kilometres from Shumen.

43

Previous spread: Khans Tervel and

Krum, with quotes from Byzantine
chronicles about their deeds
Top: The monument outline
should resemble the evolution of
Bulgarian nation from Medieval
grandeur to bright Communist
future
Bottom: Khan Asparuh, founder
of Bulgaria

44

Pa-la-mud!
'King' of Black Sea waters
'attacks' Bulgarian coast in
early autumn

by Minka Vazkresenska; photography by Anthony Georgieff

45

46 high

beam

Eating fish in Bulgaria can be a complicated business. Along the

Black Sea, the smell of deep fried sprats is everywhere, and the menus
of seaside restaurants offer mussels and jack mackerel, bluefish and
turbot. All over the country, expensive establishments attempt to lure
you in with frozen salmon and bass, octopus, shrimps and squid all
imported from somewhere, mainly Greece. Sushi is trendy, and most
Bulgarians eat carp for St Nikola's feast on 6 December.
None of the above mentioned varieties of fish and seafood,
however, evokes such awe, anticipation and generates as many
headlines as the palamud, or Black Sea bonito.
A migratory fish, the bonito live in huge shoals that spend the
winter in the Aegean and Marmara seas. In spring, the bonito pass
through the Bosporus and enter the Black Sea. There they swim,
spawn, eat smaller fish, and grow fatter from September until the end
of November. Then, together with the new generation of bonito,
they return to the Marmara and the Aegean seas. During this leg
of the migration, the palamud pass by the Bulgarian coast, where
fishermen vie to catch as many as they can from the shoals of bonito.
The reason for this infatuation with bonito lies both in its size
and its taste. When they reach Bulgarian waters, the bonito have
already reached their optimum weight, at about two kilograms. The
bones are nothing to worry about, and the flesh is smelly, juicy and
pleasantly fatty. Palamud tastes best when prepared in the simplest
possible way grilled and served with lots of fresh lemon and onions.
Other mouthwatering methods of preparation include cured bonito,
when the fish is cut into round pieces and marinated in oil, salt, black
pepper and bay leaves. You can down a lot of rakiya with this.

47

Ahtopol, Bulgaria's Bonito Capital

48

hiGh beam

However, not every bonito is worthy of attention. The young fish

between 400 grams and two kilograms are too small, bony and lean.
Local fishermen, lacking political correctness, call them tsiganka, or
Gypsy woman. A palamud over two kilograms, or toruk, is equally
unwanted, as it is perceived as being too old and fatty to be really
worth bothering about.
Before the 1970s, when industrial-scale fishing obliterated most
of the fish in the Black Sea, palamud was not that popular. People
were spoilt for choice. Turbot was in abundance, and so was lefer,
or bluefish. The Atlantic mackerel, now an endangered species, was
a common feature in the sea and on the dinner table. Many people
would eat only the fillet of the Black Sea shark, throwing the rest
away. Dolphins were killed extensively, because they stole the catch of
fishermen. In such an atmosphere, the palamud's annual migration
was not big news.
In the 1980s, the pollution of the Black Sea as well as overfishing
killed all that variety, a trend which continues to this day. According
to a report from 2014, the overwhelming majority of the catch in
Bulgarian waters is of small fish, like sprat, and the Asian rapa whelk.
The latter arrived in the Black Sea about 60 years ago clinging to
the hulls of ships from Asia and soon obliterated a large portion
of the local fauna. Since the end of the 1990s, the whelk has been
harvested and exported to Japan, South Korea and China, where it is
considered a delicacy.
The rest of the annual catch of fish in the Black Sea is made up of
jack mackerel, goatfish and goby. Bluefish is a rarity, and turbot is
protected by law, its catch regulated by EU quotas.
In this environment, the annual migration of palamud has turned
into a major event. The fish prefer the waters of Ahtopol, on the
Bulgarian South Black Sea. Each November, the tiny town known as
Bulgaria's Bonito Capital, fills with restaurant owners from all over
the country, who come to fill their freezers with palamud for the
following year.
There is a catch, however. Too often, the bonito simply do not
show up.
The palamud is a capricious fish, the Ahtopol fishermen say. If the
water is polluted or too warm, or the shoals of smaller fish it eats are
not abundant enough, the bonito will just pass by, heading straight
for the Bosporus. There is also the bluefish factor. Larger than the
palamud, their shoals mirror the path of the bonito. If the bluefish

hiGh beam 49

arrive around Ahtopol earlier than usual, the fishermen say, they
scares the bonito away.
For many years, bonito have been non-existent. In 2013, for
example, an Ahtopol fisherman said: "I cannot sell you any palamud
as I caught only two this year and they are not for sale. I want to eat
them with my family."
However, the hope that the palamud have not forgotten the waters
of Bulgaria still remains. Two years ago, in 2012, Ahtopol fishermen
experienced an unprecedented catch of bonito. "Sea Boils With
Palamud," ran the headlines of the local and national media and,
while the young scratched their heads and wondered at their luck,
older fishermen were trying to remember the last time they had to
deal with so many bonito. Apparently, it was sometime in the 1960s.
Will the bonito come back again in 2014, as they did in 2012? Or
will the bonito-less 2013 be repeated? The only way to find out is to
go to Ahtopol in October and November. Otherwise you will have to
suffice with the frozen toruks imported from Turkey.

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50

Ottoman
Bulgaria

Heritage from five centuries

of imperial domination
abounds throughout country
by Dimana Trankova; photography by Anthony Georgieff

51

52

high beam

As you travel through Bulgaria you will inevitably be confronted

by remnants of its Ottoman past: mosques, water fountains, bridges,
forts, baths and public buildings. It would be strange if you were
not Bulgaria spent 500 years under Ottoman domination. It
began with the invasion at the end of the 14th Century, which
brought chaos to the Balkans and destroyed the Second Bulgarian
Kingdom, and ended for the different parts of the Balkans inhabited
by Bulgarians between the 1878 San Stefano Peace Treaty and the
1912-1913 Balkan Wars. The heritage of the Ottomans, however,
remains contentious, provoking sometimes heated debate among
Bulgarians, and is more often than not hijacked for political purposes
by politicians of various shades and opinions.
The reasons are many, varied and too complex to explain in detail
here, but in the minds of the overwhelming majority of Bulgarians
those 500 years of "Turkish yoke" were a dark age of an economic
and cultural backwater, of blood-letting and slavery, and of atrocities
committed by Muslims against Christians. Yet, Bulgarians under the
Ottomans were allowed to own property, and managed to ensure the
survival of their own national church, set up schools, spoke Bulgarian
and traded all over the empire and abroad. There is little doubt that
the Ottomans greatly influenced the lifestyle, culture and landscape
of the Bulgarian lands; a new cuisine was developed you already
know the similarities and differences between Bulgarian, Greek and
Turkish meatballs and baklava. Turkish, Arabic and Persian words
entered the Bulgaria language, and the architecture and the urban
landscape also changed, acquiring a distinct Middle Eastern feel that
remains to this day.

53

Previous spread: The Devil's Bridge

near Ardino, in the Rhodope, is 56
metres long and 13 metres high
Plovdiv boasts the earliest
clocktower in the Balkans, and
the beautiful 15th Century Cuma
Mosque

54

high beam

Unlike cuisine and language, however, the material heritage of the

Ottomans is not obvious everywhere. Most of it was lost during the
waves of modernisation in the late 19th-early 20th centuries, and
in the mass reconstruction of town centres in the 1960s-1980s. Yet,
there are still many fascinating examples of Ottoman heritage, and
no visit to Bulgaria would be complete without exploring what will
always be a major part of Bulgaria's history.
Understandably, with their tall minarets, mosques are the most
obvious example of Ottoman architecture in Bulgaria. Sofia, which
under the Ottomans alternated between prosperity and decline,
now has only one functioning mosque, the Banyaba. Built in 1576,
it stands in the oldest inhabited part of Sofia. The ruins of Roman
Serdica lie beneath it, and the steaming mineral springs, the Stalinist
Central Department Store, and the bustle of Pirotska Street and the
Women's Market are nearby.
In fact, Sofia has two more surviving mosques, but they have been
converted into a museum and a church. Built in 1451-1491, the Great
Mosque has nine domes, covered with lead. Since the 1880s, the
building has been used as a museum of archaeology.
The 16th Century Imaret Mosque is the creation of the influential
Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. Until the end of the 19th Century,
the mosque stood outside the city boundaries and after 1878 was
turned into a prison. In 1901-1903, the mosque was remodelled into
one of Sofia's most beautiful churches, Sveti Sedmochislenitsi.
Plovdiv, Bulgaria's second largest city, has preserved two fascinating
old mosques. The 15th Century Dzhuma Mosque is a monument
of national importance and stands by the remains of the ancient
Roman stadium. Down the road is the Imaret Mosque, also from the
15th Century. Its minaret with a zigzag pattern laid in brick is truly
amazing.

55

1
23

1 Since the 1880s, Sofia's

Archaeological Museum has been

housed in a former mosque

2 The 17th Century Kurunlu

Mosque in Silistra is now
abandoned

3 The women's balcony at

Yambol's Old Mosque, from the

15th Century

4 Plovdiv's most impressive

Ottoman bath, Chifte Banya, is

now a contemporary art gallery

5 In 1906, the mosque at

Uzundzhovo was turned into

a church

45

high beam

56

The latest layout of Baba Vida

fortress in Vidin is from Ottoman
times

57

To see Bulgaria's largest and possibly most beautiful mosque, you

have to go to Shumen. The central dome of Tombul Mosque is 25
metres high and the minaret rises to 40 metres. This building is also
the only example in Bulgaria of the coquettish, decorative, Baroqueinfluenced style of the Tulip Period in Ottoman art.
What is probably Bulgaria's most unusual mosque is in the
Rhodope village of Podkova. The tiny mosque is built entirely of
wood, without a single iron nail in it. The origins and the history of
the mosque are lost in time but, according to legend, it was built by
seven maidens whose fiancs were killed in battle. The girls vowed to
remain unmarried, spent their dowries on wooden beams and built
the mosque in a single night.
Here and there around Bulgaria there are remains of Muslim
sanctuaries, known as tekke, or shrine, and trbe, or tomb. Most
of these belong to the Alevis, followers of a branch of Islam that
includes elements of certain different religions.
The most famous is the tekke of Demir Baba, or the Iron Father,
near Isperih. Built in the 16th Century, this sanctuary is a part of the
Sboryanovo archaeological reserve, which also has the remains of an
ancient Thracian city and the caryatid-adorned Sveshtari Thracian
tomb, included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Demir Baba
tekke is at its busiest on 6 May, when Muslims celebrate the spring
festival Hdrellez and Bulgarian Christians mark St George's Day.
The shrine is rich with Alevi symbolism. The stone tomb has seven
corners, mysterious painted decorations cover its walls, and some
enigmatic reliefs are to be found on the wall around the sanctuary.
Demir Baba is venerated as a healer and evidence of his powers is
everywhere. Colourful rags torn from the clothes of the sick are tied
to the branches of nearby trees, in the belief that the illness will be
tied to the tree as well.

58

hiGh beam

Besides mosques and shrines, there is a host of other examples of

Ottoman heritage scattered throughout Bulgaria.
Fortresses are probably the most spectacular. In the early centuries
of Ottoman rule, while the empire was still expanding, erecting
new fortifications in the Bulgarian lands was not a priority because
they would soon be far from the borders. However, when the
Ottoman conquest stopped at Vienna in 1683 and the empire
started to contract, the erection of forts became of vital importance.
The sultans responded by hiring European military engineers and
architects to construct forts using the latest designs and techniques.
When Bulgaria gained independence in 1878, some of these were
destroyed, but a few were preserved, mostly along the Danube.
The most picturesque of the surviving Ottoman fortresses is at
Belogradchik. Its citadel is protected by strong walls overlooked by
some of the most remarkable formations of the natural phenomenon,
the Belogradchik Rocks. In nearby Vidin, the most recent layout of
the Baba Vida fortress dates from Ottoman times. The fortress above
Silistra designed by German military engineer Helmuth von Moltke
was finished in time for the Crimean War and still housed an active
regiment at the beginning of the 20th Century.
From the end of the 16th Century, city life in the European parts
of the Ottoman Empire was regulated by the chimes of an increasing
number of clocktowers. The earliest one was in Plovdiv, built atop
the appropriately named Sahat Tepe, or Clock Hill.
By the end of the 19th Century there was not a town of importance
in the Bulgarian lands without a clocktower. Many of these buildings
were lost in subsequent decades, but an incomplete list of the most
interesting ones should include the clocktowers in Razgrad (1864),
Berkovitsa (1762), Etropole (1710), Dobrich (17th Century), Svishtov
(1765) and Sevlievo (1777).

59

1
23

1 Osman Baba tekke is the shrine

of a 16th Century spiritual leader,
and is a major pilgrimage site in
Haskovo region

2 Few Bulgarians are aware that

the lighthouse adorning Bulgaria's

easternmost tip at Shabla was built
in the 1850s on the orders
of Sultan Abdlmecid I

3 Ibrahim Pasha Mosque in

Razgrad is one of Bulgaria's finest,

but has been abandoned for
decades

4 Bulgaria's longest Ottoman

bridge, Mustafa Pasha in
Svilengrad, is 295 metres long
and has 21 arches

60

high beam

Water is very important to Muslims and, though public baths were

known in the Balkans from the time of the Romans, their heyday was
in Ottoman times. Cities and towns were dotted with large and small
hamams, or public baths, and hot mineral springs added healing
properties to the pleasure of bathing. Like clocktowers, baths were
built and happily used by Christians too.
Many of these baths were still in use well into the 20th Century,
but today most of the surviving hamams are abandoned, including
the ones in Kalofer, Berkovitsa, Gotse Delchev and Banya, near
Razlog. Some were luckier and were turned into galleries or even
restaurants. In Plovdiv, Chifte Banya, or Double Bath, now houses a
contemporary art gallery, and in Kavarna the old hamam has become
a maritime museum.
In Ottoman times, public water fountains were usually a gift from a
local benefactor to the community. The most common type of water
fountains were ornate slabs built into walls, but larger, freestanding,
roofed examples with several outlets after the imperial fashion in
Constantinople were also erected. Perhaps the most beautiful of
these is the freestanding water fountain, dating from 1666, in the
centre of Samokov, a now sleepy town which in the Middle Ages and
the Ottoman period was a busy mining centre.
The Ottomans were dedicated builders of stone bridges and started
construction in the 15th Century, as soon as they felt secure in their
newly-conquered lands.
The longest Ottoman bridge in Bulgaria is the Mustafa Pasha
Bridge, built in 1529, at a major crossing on the Maritsa River, now
the town of Svilengrad. It is 295 metres long and has 21 arches, the
widest of which has a span of 18 metres. The bridge is still in use by
local traffic.

61

Top: The Agushev Konaks, in the

Rhodope village of Mogilitsa
Bottom: The so-called Roman Wall
in Sofia is actually an Ottoman
open air prayer site from the 15th
Century

62

high beam

The 15th Century Kadin Bridge over the Struma and the 16th
Century Devil's Bridge on the Arda are considered the most beautiful
in Bulgaria, but the country abounds with equally charming, lesser
known bridges. Hidden in ravines and over dry river beds, they are
to be found mainly in the mountains. Some of them enjoy local
fame, others are overgrown. Do not be surprised when locals or even
tourist signs refer to these bridges as "Roman." It is still a received
notion among people in the Balkans that a structure so old that its
true history has been forgotten simply must be Roman. In Greece,
however, anything old is Byzantine.
One of the biggest surprises of the Ottoman architectural heritage
in Bulgaria are its houses. The majestic buildings in Plovdiv's Old
Quarter, Kovachevitsa and Zheravna all belong to a tradition of
Ottoman housebuilding which was popular with all religious and
ethnic groups in the empire. This impressive style of architecture
developed in the Balkans and Asia Minor in the European and
Anatolian parts of the empire in the 18-19th centuries, and was
spread throughout the empire by itinerant builders of all faiths and
nationalities. Similar houses exist in places as far away from each
other as Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Kastoria in Greece and
Safranbolu in Anatolia.
In Bulgaria, there is only one completely preserved mansion of an
Ottoman dignitary, the Agushev Konaks in the village of Mogilitsa,
in the Rhodope. Built by local notable Agush Aga between 1825 and
1842, this compound of three buildings has a total of 221 windows,
86 doors and 24 chimneys, plus a tower decorated with cityscapes.
Some of the Ottoman remains in Bulgaria are sheer curiosities.
One is the so-called Roman Wall in Sofia. Remember the
Everything-Old-Is-Roman rule? There is no better example than
this freestanding wall in the middle of an open air market. Though
everyone in Sofia knows it as the Roman Wall, it has the distinctive
appearance of early Ottoman architecture, as it is built of rectangular
stones encased in narrow bricks. This "Roman" wall was probably
built at the beginning of the 15th Century as an open air place of
prayer.
This series of articles is supported by the
America for Bulgaria Foundation. The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners.

63

1
23

1 The Ottoman cemetery at

Balchik

2 A keeper of Tombul Mosque,

in Shumen, shows a model of the

complex he has made himself

3 Demir Baba tekke, near Isperih,

is the supposed grave of a 16th
Century sage renowned for his
physical power and ability to cure
all illnesses

64

People of
Istanbul
Buzzing megalopolis
sits on two continents,
two-hour drive from
Bulgarian border

by Bozhidara Georgieva;
photography by Anthony Georgieff

65

balkans travel

66

Top: Fishing at the bridge over the

Golden Horn is a favourite past
time of many citizens of Istanbul
Bottom: Intestine kebabs are
only a speck of the city's many
delicacies

67

Reasons to visit Istanbul in the autumn are many, and range from
the milder and sunnier climate of the Bosporus to the hope of
encountering fewer tourists at the city's famous historical sites, while
the nostalgic aroma of roasted chestnuts wafts around the corners of
old neighbourhoods such as Galata and Beyolu.
The crowded streets, however, are one more reason that justifies
making the trip to Turkey's largest city. Home to an estimated 15
million citizens, though the actual number is probably higher,
Istanbul has stayed true to its millennia-old role as a melting pot of
people of diverse stock, ethnicity, religion and way of life, becoming
one of the most cosmopolitain cities in the world. A whirlpool of
faces, cultures and languages, Istanbul cannot be compared to any
other big city in Europe. It is the New York of the eastern hemisphere.

68

69
Swimming in the waters of Kabata, one of the
busiest ferry stops on the Bosporus
Following spread:

1 Istanbul's booming graffiti scene takes

advantage of the empty fin-de-sicle buildings

in the Beyolu neighbourhood

2 Feeling lost in the crowds of Istiklal Avenue

is inevitable, and fun

3 A glimpse of Istanbul's life

4 Street vendors are the most charming part
of Istanbul's shopping experience

5 Waiting for the Tnel funicular, which have

been connecting Karaky and Beyolu since
1875

6 Despite the bustle and modernisation, there

are times when you can still feel the hzn, or
melancholy, of Istanbul, so beloved by Nobel
Prize winner Orhan Pamuk

7 A party at Pera Palas Hotel. Built in 1892, it

was at the final stop of Orient Express and had

guests like Agatha Christie

70

balkans travel

71

12

34
56

Turks make up the majority of Istanbul's inhabitants, but even

this group is far from homogenous. With only about 28 percent
of the population being native to the megalopolis, Istanbul has
swelled with internal migrants attracted by its booming economy,
daring infrastructure projects, top class universities and the promise
of prosperity. Growing at a rate of more than 3 percent annually,
Istanbul is now home to Turks from all corners of the country, with
the most numerous communities coming from Sivas and Kastamonu.
The result is a variety of local traditions thrown together and
sometimes lost in the multi-cultural vortex of Istanbul. Walking the
streets or taking public transport you are confronted with the sight of
women dressed in everything from colourful hijabs, to miniskirts, to
the omnipresent blue jeans. Men favour suits, or stone-washed jeans
made by some up and coming local menswear brand.

72

73

balkans travel

74

Previous spread: The Blue Mosque

from 1616 fits Istanbul's grandeur
it can accommodate up to 10,000
worshipers
Top: In the evenings, Istanbul's
crowds are thicker around the
restaurants and bars in Beyolu
Bottom: Yet, some of the central
districts like Eyup still keep a
distinct small-town atmosphere
where the neighbours know each
other by name

75

Turkey is also the home of Kurds, Assyrians, Arabs, Bosniaks,

Tatars, Laz and many other nationalities, and all of them are present
in Istanbul. Since the beginning of the Syrian Civil War, there has
been a visible presence of Syrian refugees in the city. Black and
Asiatic faces are also discernible in the dense human mix of Istanbul,
migrants from Asia and Africa who have sought a better future in the
megalopolis or are using it as a stopover on their journey further into
Europe.
Istanbul, the modern reincarnation of ancient and medieval
Constantinople, is also the home of Greeks, Armenians, Jews, and
Bulgarians. The latter tried in vain to conquer Constantinople in the
Middle Ages and settled en masse in the 18-19th centuries, when the
city was the capital of the Ottoman Empire. In Bulgarian, the name
of Istanbul is still Tsarigrad, or City of the Kings.

76

balkans travel

Historical turbulence and political changes in the 19-20th

centuries have diminished the population of these groups
in Istanbul. Today they are only a tiny presence in the fabric
of the city, but their faces and voices, businesses, homes and
graveyards, churches and synagogues are still there, forming an
important and visible part of the heritage in neighbourhoods
such as Galata and its surroundings.
Westerners have been a part of the human conundrum of
the megalopolis since the time of the Byzantine Empire. They
came here as traders and businessmen, diplomats and tutors,
and some of them stayed.
The diversity of inhabitants has resulted in a diversity of
cultures, behaviours, religions and cuisines. In the central areas
of European Istanbul mosques, churches, and synagogues rub
walls in the contested and limited space. The air is thick with
the scent of the typical kebabs and stuffed vegetables from the
simple restaurants serving the ordinary people, while a range
of fine dining restaurants vie for Michelin stars with their
reworking of Ottoman cuisine. Shopping opportunities are
everywhere, from the touristy lanes of the Grand Bazaar and
the more genuine experience of the Misir Bazaar, to the flashy
shopping malls and Istiklal Caddesi, the city's oldest and most
refined (nowadays somewhat over-refined) shopping street.
Trying to catch your breath in overpopulated Istanbul can
make you think that somehow the world has managed to cram
itself into a nutshell, and you are right at the centre of the
pandemonium, but to lose yourself among the noise and jostle
of thousands of people is one of Istanbul's greatest pleasures.

77

78

dental care

dental care

prevention
is the best
dental care
Modern lifestyle harms our teeth, and actively
advertised procedures like home tooth whitening can
have undesired consequences. Dr Angela Gusiyska
DMD, PhD who lectures in the Department of
Operative Dentistry and Endodontics in the Faculty
of Dental Medicine of the Medical University Sofia,
is one of the best specialists in dental care in Bulgaria,
and knows the secrets of healthy teeth and the pros
and cons of tooth whitening.
Is Bulgaria a good destination for dental tourism?
Recently there has been a lot of talk about dental
tourism in Bulgaria, but actually it is a year-long
tradition which is becoming increasingly popular
thanks to the media. The quality of dental treatment
in Bulgaria is on a top level, and is up to the
contemporary European and world standards. The
increased precision in medical manipulations is the
main stimulus for an increasing number of foreigners
to come to Bulgaria specifically for dental care, and
not to visit the dentist only because they happen to
be in Bulgaria. Dental tourism is something which
is done deliberately and includes planning of the
complete healing process. As a lecturer in the Faculty

of Dental Medicine at the Medical University Sofia

each year I see the desire of our young colleagues to
become better qualified. This also contributes to the
rising quality of dental care in Bulgaria.
Which are the most common modern lifestyle factors
that affect dental health? What is the influence of the
food we eat?
Modern eating habits are far from healthy, but the
stressful life we live forces us to eat more processed
and dough foods which harm not only our teeth, but
our body as well. These foods increase the acidity
level in the mouth, which in the presence of other
harmful factors, such as decreased mineralisation of
the teeth, gums inflammation, bad dental hygiene,
increases the risk of caries, pulpitis, periodontitis and
all the associated complications of the soft tissues and
the bone. The additives and colouring agents added
in food by the modern food industry can change the
colour of the teeth, if they are eaten or drunk on a
daily basis. The best known of these are coffee, black
tea, red wine and dark forest fruit, but there are many
more of which we can hardly protect ourselves.
A significant improvement of dental health can

Dr Angela Gusiyska DMD, PhD

be achieved with regular check-ups, whose aim is to

diagnose in time and at an early stage the harmful
processes in the oral cavity. Clinical oral hygiene is
crucial for good oral health and check-ups should
be done every six months, unless the dentist has
prescribed more frequent visits in order to follow up
the condition or the healing process.
Which are the newest reliable methods in dental care?
What are their advantages?
The contemporary trends for innovative solutions
in dental practice are developing at a top speed. The
technologies for diagnostics, such as the X-ray and
those for clinical use, are being constantly improved.
The health care policy of each state and, in particular,
the policy of each dentist should develop towards
improvement of early diagnosis. Keeping the natural
teeth for as long as possible is one of our patients'
desires and the contemporary methods for treatment
of caries and preservation of the root give us this
opportunity.
The composite materials with nanofillers, securing
the best possible adaptation and hermeticity of the
tooth, the choice of contemporary technologies
for making ceramic and Zirconium crowns are
fundamental for the perfect restoration of dentition.
Today, thanks to the tooth implants, a high quality
multi-level treatment is possible. It is also applicable in
cases of complete loss of the natural teeth, eliminating
the discomfort of removable dentures.
Advertisements for almost miraculous tooth whitening
are everywhere. What should we know before beginning
a tooth whitening procedure?
Every person has a specific skin colour, and the same
applies for the colour of the teeth. The desire of having
a Hollywood smile and snow-white teeth doesn't
always have good results, as if the tooth whitening is
not performed by a specialist, it can harm. People who
order whitening products on the Internet are taking a
great risk. The dentist is the one who decides whether
the whitening can take place in his office, in the
patient's home, or will combine the two approaches
to achieve the best result. The home whitening set is
received at the dentist office, after a consultation. It
includes a whitening gel and a foil, which is formed
and used for the preparation of individual splints. The
whitening gel is put inside them, and then the splints
are worn for about 4 hours each day.

79

When done in the dentist office, the procedure takes

about an hour, and the gums are protected from the
gel. If the patient wants stronger whitening, a follow-up
procedure can be made at home. In the adverts, we are
shown that teeth go 5, 8 or 10 shades whiter than they
have been before the procedure. This effect, however, is
not universal, as it depends on the individual structure
of the enamel. So, to avoid pointless risks, it is better
just to refresh the colour of your teeth and not to
change it drastically, although modern gels are in
lower concentration and spare the enamel, while their
remineralising ingredients restore the enamel.
The teeth of some people are easily whitened, for
others whitening is next to impossible.
Tooth-whitening can have unwanted side effects.
The most common is that the sensitivity of teeth to
everyday irritation like cold and warm increases. It
should go away after 2-3 days, but if the discomfort
continues, a visit to the dentist is required. The gel can
also burn the gums, and in some cases the gum recesses
exposing the tooth.
This is why before beginning a tooth whitening
procedure, a complete analysis should be done,
and the pros and cons of the procedure should be
thoroughly explained by the dentist.

Sofia, 5 Zahariy Krusha St, phone: +359 2 952 5255

fiction

IREN LEVI's novel Final Call has been shortlisted in the Contemporary
Bulgarian Novel Contest of the Elizabeth Kostova Foundation and
Open Letter Books at the University of Rochester in January 2014.

final call
by Iren Levi
translated from the Bulgarian by Marinina Gadeleva

It was an almost ordinary day. We

gathered in the common room and discussed
the spelling of the words cappuccino and
espresso. According to a nice little old man in a
checkered shirt and striped pants, I forgot his
name, the spelling was "campuccino" because
it originated from Campuccio, and "expresso"
because it was brewed fast and they served
it on express trains in the past. He was very
convincing and it took them some time to
change his mind. Then we passed a ball to each
other and we had to be truthful. The five of us
were very careful not to be.
We did nothing special throughout the
whole day. I did not ask anything.
But that night Matthew went to bed with
his socks on. That seemed like Plan A. I got
worried. I was wondering whether to keep my
socks on, too. Better have some extra socks
on I thought, but I was wrong. I did not
get a wink of sleep because of them the whole
night. From time to time I dozed off and had
dreams of tying up the sheets and using them
to escape through the window of the second
floor to the yard, then the sheets turned into
birds and we chased after them to return them
to the nursing home, where they belonged.
Good thing Matthew was noisy and woke me
up early.

He got up, changed his socks and looked well

rested. All five of us went to breakfast. John
drank five cups of milk. Luke rarely came to
breakfast. But today, as if in his honour, the
girls rattled the plates, cups and spoons less. It
felt suddenly wonderful to me that all five of us
were there. We met in this nursing home, where
we all came bearing the shame of having no one
out there to love us at the end. We were loners
who fit together in their loneliness. Essentially,
we were idiots. Idiot is a good word. Means
"unique," but does not sound so lofty.
Thomas appeared gloomy. Luke gracefully
melancholic, Matthew dreamy, John
optimistically crazy, and I did not appear like
anything. I was all that and none of it. I never
got to discover myself my whole life, so how
was I expected to do it now, in-between two
pieces of meatloaf.
Then the Senior nurse came by, but did not
pass us. She stood there carefully scrutinising
us. Her nostrils widened suspiciously. She
was sniffing. She looked like a predator. She
had the ability to make my skin crawl. That
thin, rather tall, gaunt woman with long nails
and thin lips. I remember the day when she
admitted me here me and a few others. It was
pouring with rain. She lined us up in front of
the entrance of the nursing home and told us

its whole history names and facts, including

the unverified ones. She held her umbrella with
the curved part of its handle right in front of
her lips like a microphone and we stood in the
rain, which poured down our collars and ears. I
realized that she had no intention of being our
friend. She was the official witch of the home.
I saw her naked one night. Inadvertently, I
went down the wrong hallway. I was sleepy
and upset and I walked down the Forbidden
Hallway. It was designated only for members
of the staff. At its entrance there was a desk
chained to a cabinet, and that cabinet was
chained to a garbage bin, and there was a
piece of paper pasted on the desk that read:
"To be used only by the Senior nurse." Further
down there was an armchair tied to another
armchair, and both were tied to a small table.
They were: "To be used only by the Senior
nurse and her guests."

East meets West

in Soa at

Checkpoint Charlie
Live Jazz on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays

81

That's the hallway I mistakenly ended up in

one night, while dragging my slippers, which
whispered that I was just a little old man. Then
she appeared like a phantom at the other end
of the hallway. Stark naked. The bathrooms
were at her end, the bedrooms at mine.
Apparently there was no doubt in her mind
that she was alone, because she was humming
a tune badly. This was her hallway. I was
terrified and froze, unfortunately with my eyes
wide open. She saw me, stopped humming,
stopped walking, stopped breathing. That's
the one time I felt the earth stop turning. And
scientists keep wandering why there are time
shifts...
She was thinking rapidly. I could
simultaneously see and hear her thoughts.
I had no contact with my own. After some
time she moved towards me with resolve
and with even greater resolve passed me by.

12 Ivan Vazov St. Sofia phone: 988 03 70

fiction

Gourmet Cuisine

80

82

fiction

fiction

I understood, I was just a piece of furniture

which she could use some other time.
That was one of the scariest things that had ever
happened to me. I survived a naked witch in the
Forbidden Hallway. This memory encouraged
me. No Plan A could be scarier than that.
The Senior nurse walked on. I sighed with
relief. I could once again hear the rattling of
the plates and spoons.
"What about the bed sheets?" I quietly asked
John, who was sitting next to me.
"What bed sheets?" he wondered.
Apparently Plan A did not incorporate any
sheets. I hoped I'd had a revelation. So if it
wasn't bed sheets that turned into birds, then
what?
"Remind me how Plan A begins." I smiled
casually at John.
He just laughed. Took it as a joke, of course.
Who could possibly forget how one of the
most important escapes in his life began?!
And who could fall asleep while it was being
planned?! Well, me.
Just before our afternoon nap Matthew said:
"Let's go get a paper."
"Now? I don't feel like reading, I'm sleepy."
He stared at me.
"You're sleepy?"
"I didn't sleep well last night... the socks, the
bed sheets..."
"Judas, let's go get a paper." He sounded
serious.
I thought he wanted us to talk about the
escape and that's why he wanted us to go out.
That was wonderful! I was going to find out
something at least. I hastily put on my shoes
and proceeded to go.
"The jacket," Matthew said.
"It's warm."
"Jacket!" said Matthew.
Maybe he wants me to hide some plan under
the jacket I thought.

"And the money, right? he asked me. "Judas,

what's wrong with you?"
"What do you mean?"
"You're acting strange."
"It's all because of the birds," I said. "How
much money should I take?"
Matthew headed towards the door:
"All of it."
Apparently the plan began with buying all
the papers on the block I thought and then I
laughed at my own stupidity. I swiftly stuffed
the money into my pockets and followed
Matthew. Luke, Thomas and John were also
heading somewhere. We met them at the
gatekeeper's.
"To get a paper," said Luke.
The gatekeeper made a note of it.
"To get a paper," said Thomas.
The gatekeeper noted that.
"To get a paper," said John.
The gatekeeper made a note of that, too.
"To get a paper," said Matthew.
The gatekeeper noted that as well.
"To get a paper," I said and realized that I
sounded the dumbest. Matthew and John
sounded a little less dumb.
The gatekeeper gave me a look:
"Nope. Four just went out to get a paper.
Why didn't you ask them to get you one?"
"I asked them, but they wouldn't. I have to go
myself."
"No way. According to the regulations I can
only let four at a time go to get a paper. When
the first one comes back, you'll go."
"Fine," I agreed. The whole endeavor seemed
like a pointless waste of money for papers and
gatekeeper's ink, anyway. One of us could have
easily gone out without sounding so dumb.
But then I got worried that I'd miss out on
information on Plan A again. "Can I go out for
something else?" I inquired.
"Yes, no problem."

83

"What would be appropriate?" I asked him.

"Ah, that I don't know," he said. " I can't give
clues."
The gatekeeper never left his little booth.
I saw him through the small dirty window
and his little face looked sort of endearing
and insignificant. I thought that whenever he
left, he took his booth with him, like a snail
carrying his shell, but I had never seen him
leave. He was not insignificant, though, and
he knew it. In order for me to go out, he had
to push a button and the door had to make
a buzzing sound. Then I quickly got to work
before he could change his mind. What other
reasons did people give to go out I wondered,
I had only been outside to get papers.
"For gum?"
"No one leaves just to get gum, you need
a more justifiable reason," the gatekeeper
explained.

84

fiction

"A case of whiskey?" I asked.

"It's not on the list," the gatekeeper said
sternly, he was very strict.
"For smokes!" It struck me.
"Smokes, yes, I'll note that."
None of us smoked and for a moment there
I almost forgot about this wonderful excuse to
sneak out. From time to time Matthew chewed
on an empty pipe and Luke sometimes found
a cigar from someplace, which we all shared,
but that was not something you remember in
a pinch.
I went out, took a few steps and stopped,
inhaled deeply, and was once again in the
"front yard of my house." The birds sang, the
grass was green, the glass waited for me on the
porch, the swinging chair rocked gently, as if I

fiction

had just left it, it was cloudy, just enough so the

sun would not make you squint...
"Judas!"
The yard disappeared, I could not even keep
the glass, John was waddling towards me as he
always did when he was in a hurry.
"What's going on? We're running late."
"Late for a paper?" I asked.
"Enough already, no need to pretend
anymore. The train leaves at 3:15pm sharp, you
know that."
The train? Plan A. We were out. Nothing
could make us go back. Ingenious we used
the afternoon break to gain time. They
wouldn't discover our absence until almost
4pm. No, it wasn't ingenious. Strangely
enough, I had always envisioned a night
escape. With bed sheets, ropes, drugging the
gatekeeper and the Senior nurse, bribing the
nurses, who would secretly give us the key to
the gate, and we would give them a farewell
pat on the butt, and all kinds of complications
that we eventually overcame. And what did we
do? We just lied to the gatekeeper. That kind
guy. How could I fall asleep that night! They
ruined the whole romantic adventure of the
escape by choosing the safest way. I wondered
how trivial Plan B must have been! I later
found out that John wanted us to escape on
horses and Matthew proposed we jump with
parachutes from the roof, but due to the lack
of horses and parachutes and the availability,
instead, of a gatekeeper, things worked out the
way Thomas had suggested.
I was walking beside John, who was skipping
along and I suddenly remembered that I liked
to run. I tried. I ran. I could do it. Maybe I
waved my hands a little funny, but so what!
It was like riding a bicycle. Then a boy on a
bicycle rode by.
"Hey, kid! Please, let me see your bike."

The boy looked at me but did not stop, he

actually went faster. He was holding an icecream in one hand and couldn't go that fast. I
chased after him:
"Kid, stop!"
Luke, Thomas and Matthew watched me
from the other corner of the street and Luke
ran after me.
"Judas, stop!"
"Kid, stop!"
"Judas!"
"Kid!"
I was gaining on him. He looked back in
alarm and I gave him a friendly wave. Then
he dropped his ice-cream. It seemed like he
slowed down, looked at it with regret and
darted away, using both hands. I stopped by
the ice-cream. Chocolate and mint. I was
embarrassed.
"Judas!" John caught up with me.
"I wanted to see if it's true that you never
forget how to ride a bike," I said quietly.
John put his arm around my shoulders and
took me to Luke, Thomas and Matthew,
who were looking at me in disbelief from the
opposite corner. No one said a word and I
loved them for it.
The train station was wonderful. Everyone
was running and shouting. Suitcases flashed by
as if alive. Some had wheels. Others a hand
that carried them. All were hiding secrets.
When I was little I dreamed of working as a
suit case checker at a train station. I wanted to
find out what people carried around here and
there. I would discover what was important to
them, what it was that they refused to let go. I
had only seen the contents of my own suitcase
and those of my parents, it seemed to me that
there was some kind of mistake in the choice
of things that we believe we can't do without.
Unfortunately, it turned out that I had talents

85

THE ELIZABETH
KOSTOVA
FOUNDATION and
VAGABOND, Bulgaria's
English Monthly, cooperate in
order to enrich the English
language with translations
of contemporary Bulgarian
writers. Every year we give you
the chance to read the work of
a dozen young and sometimes
not-so-young Bulgarian
writers that the EKF considers original, refreshing and
valuable. Some of them have been translated in English
for the first time. The EKF has decided to make the
selection of authors' work and to ensure they get
first-class English translation, and we at VAGABOND
are only too happy to get them published in a quality
magazine. Enjoy our fiction pages.

in another area, the family gathered to discuss

the facts and the checking of suitcases was
left for another life. I became a priest. I was
handsome. And an eloquent speaker. Forget
suitcases and sense!
"I'll go crazy in this station" Thomas said.
"Where is platform 6?"
We found platforms 5 and 7, but 6 was not
between them
IREN LEVI was born on 1 June, 1973, in
Bulgaria. She studied at Sofia University,
where she completed a masters degree in
journalism and mass communications,
majoring in television studies. She is the
scriptwriter of several documentaries. In 2007,
her poetry collection The Naked Scarecrow
was published by Zahariy Stoyanov
Publishing House; and, in 2012, her novel
Final Call was published by KITO.
She works as a scriptwriter and TV host of
the Little Stories TV show, broadcast by
Bulgarian National Television.

86

our winner

fiction

and the
winner iS...
ZDRAVINA PENEVA, from Varna, guessed correctly that the
site we have shown you in the picture of Where in Bulgaria
Are You? in Vagabond 95-96, is the 1,300 Years Bulgaria
Monument in Shumen. Zdravina wins the poetic guide Wallto-Wall, Poetry of Europe.
Zdravina works for the Ministry of Interior. She reads Vagabond
because she is curious of what new and interesting from the
country will be covered in each issue. She is also happy that some
of the articles are translated into the Bulgarian. In Bulgaria,
Zdravina recommends the taste of the Bulgarian hospitality, the
wonderful food, and beautiful places like Plovdiv and Veliko
Tarnovo. What Zdravina doesn't like in Bulgaria are the current
pessimistic atmosphere, the reluctancy of many Bulgarians
to love their country, and the emigration of young and clever
people.

SHERITA FLORA

Bouquets,
owers and
plants for all
occasions.
Delivery.
Business Park Sofia, Building 10, Sofia
phone: 489 9626, 0899 900 011
www.sheritaora.com ; www.ozeleniavane.com

airport newS

Professional
cleaning
of oces,
business
buildings,
homes
and
exteriors.
Includes
cleaning
using climbing
equipment and
cleaning of escalators.
Central Oce
65 Iskar St, Soa
phone: 983 28 28, 0899 900 010; fax: 980 73 09
Business Park Soa Oce
Business Park Soa, Building 3, Soa
phone: 489 9286, 0896 668 504
email: sherita_m@ybobg.com; www.sheritam.com

12 Ivan Vazov St. Sofia phone: 988 03 70

Let's start
the day
neatly!

Flower Retail Store & Landscaping

Landscape design and development
of green areas. Interior and exterior
landscaping and gardening.

hiGh
fliGhtS
89, 105

wellbeinG

90

deStination

99

wine & dine

106

healthcare
property

114
122

87

airport news

88

89

the wonders of bulgaria greet

passengers at varna airport
Ten photos of the most beautiful places in Bulgaria
attract the attention of passengers and visitors at Varna
Airport.
The exhibition, presenting the Wonders of Bulgaria,
comprises of impressive pictures of Bulgarian landmarks
as Aladzha Monastery, the Madara Rider, Pliska, the
Seven Rila Lakes, St Anastasia Island and other sites
that will fascinate passengers.
The aim is to promote Bulgaria as a tourist
destination and make the travellers acquainted with at

least some of the natural, historical and archeological

landmarks of the country.
The project is carried out with the support of the
Ministry of Economy and Energy and Standart Daily,
while Varna Airport is the host of the event.
The opening of the exhibition was attended by
Deputy Minister of Tourism Branimir Botev, Chief
Editor of Standart Daily Slavka Bozukova, Director
of Varna Airport Dimitar Kostadinov and many
guests.

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90

wellbeing

The best hotels which show

why Bulgaria is an excellent
spa destination

- ,

by Dimitar Ivanov;
photography by Anthony Georgieff

The cult for the curative power of mineral water in

the Bulgarian lands exists since the times of the ancient
Thracians, who founded some of their settlements near
mineral springs at places which later become cities like
Sofia and Hisarya. The ancient Greeks and Romans
enriched the tradition, creating public baths which were
not only a place for a dip, but centres of social life. Later,
in the Ottoman period, the mineral waters again fed a
number of public baths.
Today, the development of Bulgaria as a spa destination
is more than natural. The reasons are not only historical.
The country has 225 mineral springs with medium to high
mineralisation. The springs in the north are colder, and
the ones in the south are warmer. The average temperature
of the mineral springs in Bulgaria is 37-50, with the
hottest of them situated along the Mesta and Struma
rivers, and in the north slopes of the Western Rhodope.
To this, should be added factors like the good climate,
the clean air outside the big cities, the mountains and the
sea. In the past few years a number of serious and wellthought investments in development of spa infrastructure
by hotel owners brought yet another detail into the
re-imagining of Bulgaria as a spa destination. The clients
of the good-quality sanatoria, hotels and spa centres today

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Atlantis Resort & SPA

Water,
My Friend

91

A magnificent combination of luxury and atmosphere without a match!

Legend and tradition entwined in the living magic of the harmony and pleasure of spa!
The luxurious spa centre is on
1,100 sq.m and there you can
enjoy:
A variety of massages,
therapies and wellness
procedures, including
Vichy shower, Spa capsule,
Cleopatra's bath, Ayurveda,
Thalassotherapy, Aromatherapy
and many more
Roman bath with three
pools with water of different
temperature
Indoor swimming pool with
children's section and Jacuzzi
Infrared and Finnish sauna
Fitness and solarium

Strimon Spa Club

Enjoy Strimon Spa Club***** with the exclusive BALNEOLOGICAL PACKAGE:

HEALTH, WARMTH & SPA
The offer is valid for up to 1 April 2015
Room on FB basis
plus 15 spa
procedures
Single Standard room
Double Mansard room
Double Standard room
Double Deluxe room
Studio Apartment
Maisonette

Kyustendil, 24 Tsar Simeon I St

phone: (+359 78) 559 000, 559 006; fax. (+359 78) 551 355
marketing@strimon-spaclub.com; www.strimon-spaclub.com

Rates per room for 5 nights (from Sunday to Thursday) in leva

1 adult

2 adults

3 adults

500
590
590
750
1090
1190

890
890
990
1350
1400

1350
1890
-

1 adult with a
child for up to
12 years of age
740
740
880
1190
1290

2 adults with a
child for up to
12 years of age
1050
1350
-

92

wellbeing

enjoy qualified medical care, a variety of massages and

therapies, of baths and saunas.
In the greatest part of Europe the specialised spa
treatments are expensive. In Bulgaria, this is not the case
and precisely the good value for money is the country's
strongest point.
On the following pages we present a selection of some
of the best hotels in Bulgaria, where to immerse yourself in
spa pleasures.
Strimon Spa Club: Health, tradition,
luxury and pleasure
Kyustendil's hot mineral springs made the city a popular
location for spa pleasures and balneology as early as the
Roman times. Today, the five-star Strimon Spa Club
hotel (Kyustendil, 24 Tsar Simeon I St, phone: 0879 353
649; www.strimon-spaclub.com) attracts guests from all over
Bulgaria and abroad as a centre of healthcare combined
with spa in an exclusive atmosphere. Only 86 kms from
Sofia, Strimon Spa Club is in Kyustendil's central park
area and has a 1,100 sq.m spa centre and 18 offices for
different procedures and therapies. The hotel's guests are
pampered with classical, healing and alternative massages,
Roman bath with three pools, and indoor mineral water
swimming pool with children's section. The different
procedures, the saunas, the fitness, the solarium, the spa
capsule, the mud treatment, the lymphatic drainage, the
paraffin, the Cleopatra bath and the organic cosmetics
offered by Strimon Spa Club guarantee that you will
have an unforgettable stay. If you need health treatment
or want to escape from the stress, you can try the special
programmes and therapies under the control of a
medical doctor. Besides its wholesome health effect, the
Kyustendil mineral water has proven beneficial effect
in treatment of sterility and chronic gynaecological
inflammations.
Atlantis Resort & SPA:
Relax in sea style
You want to chill out after a tiresome day at work? You
look for a place to recharge? Atlantis Resort & SPA
(Burgas, Sarafovo, 58 Angel Dimitrov St, phone: 0888 641
001, www.atlantisresort-bg.com) offers complete relaxation
and repose in absolute serenity. The guests immerse in the
cosiness of the spacious rooms and apartments, and enjoy
the exceptional sea view towards the Burgas Bay. There
is an easy access to the beach, too. The ones who prefer
to stay inside the complex have at their disposal a spa and
wellness centre, fitness, bowling centre, and a magnificent
restaurant. Other conveniences are the diet office, the
Russian and Turkish baths, the thermal zone with indoor
heated pool, plus the Jacuzzi, Finish and aroma-bio saunas
with Himalayan salt, steam bath and a shock-pool. With

93

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Delta-Sani
94

wellbeinG

H O T E L

DELTA COMPLEX:
SINKING IN RHODOPE BLISS
Huddled in the pristine nature of the mighty
mountain, DeltA ComPleX (Ognyanovo village,
Garmen municipality, phone: +359 7523 2005; www.
hoteldelta-bg.com) gives you everything you need
for a wholesome and energising spa vacation. Delta
uses mineral water with 40C temperature, which
feeds two large swimming pools and runs from the
showers in the hotel rooms. It heals conditions of
the bone joints and the peripheral nervous system,
as well as gynaecological, kidney, urological and bile
diseases. The Sani luxury spa centre is the pearl of
Delta Complex. Among its sophisticated interior you
enjoy sauna, a Jacuzzi, steam bath, pearl bath, and
a variety of massages. The complex is open all year
round and is located within a majestic nature with
centuries old plane trees, pine and oak forests. The
hotel's vicinities abound with interesting sites, like the
ruins if the Roman city of Nicopolis ad Nestum, and
the traditional villages of Kovachevitsa, Leshten and
Dolen.

Health care meets pleasure

Enjoy the benefits and calm of healing mineral water
in the hospitable Delta-Sani Hotel. The water in the
springs is slightly mineralised with temperature of 3640oC, ideal for curing of a range of health conditions
Mineral water swimming pool and luxurious spa
centre with a wide range of procedures
Stylishly furnished and fully equipped rooms and
apartments
FIne restaurant and a winery, conference hall
Ognyanovo Village, Garmen Municipality
phones: +359 7523 2005; +359 899 911 021
deltahotel@abv.bg
www.hoteldelta-bg.com

its conference halls, Atlantis Resort & SPA is also a great

destination for business tourism.
INTERHOTEL SANDANSKI:
FUTURE IN TRADITIONS
Apart from its favourable climate, clean air, splendid
nature and rich history, Sandanski is also known for the
legendary 4-star inteRhotel sAnDAnski (Sandanski,
Park zone, phone: 0882 611 031; www.interhotelsandanski.
bg). Situated at the very beginning of the beautiful city
park, Interhotel Sandanski is an opportunity for having a
holiday amid rare trees and plants. Due to its air, known
with the lowest content of allergens in Bulgaria, the region
is also an established centre for treatment of allergies and
asthma. This is why the spa profile of Interhotel Sandanski
is not a coincidence. The hotel boasts an outdoors
and indoors swimming pool, sectors for hydrotherapy,
electrotherapy and light treatment, and inhalations, as
well as sauna, solarium, tennis court, and gymnastics hall.
Procedures for treatment of asthma, osteoporosis, arthrorheumatism are also offered, and so are programmes for
weight loss, anti-stress therapy, different kinds of baths,
water treatment, kinesitherapy, phytotherapyphytotherapy,
and many others. The visitors choose between a variety of
rooms: 181 standard and 82 luxurious, and 23 suites.

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Live your
autumn dream
in Interhotel
Sandanski!

For more information

contact us at:
+ 359 746 31165,
e-mail: reservations@ihsand.com
or visit our website:
www.interhotelsandanski.bg

travel

Spa pleasures and mountain fun

all year round!
The 3 Piry Hotel & Spa Complex is linked to the hot
mineral springs in Banya village, near Bansko and offers:
30 double rooms, 9 triple rooms, 6 one-bedroom apartments
and 10 two-bedroom apartments in separate houses
with separate entrances
Piry Restaurant with Bulgarian and Mediterranean cuisine
Piry Spa with a swimming pool, a sauna and a steam room,
plus a wide range of relaxation, rehabilitation, facials, body,
anti-cellulite, anti-stress and other treatments
Outdoor swimming pool with mineral water
and children's pool in summer

Bansko, 2nd Kilometre on the road to Banya

phones: +359 895 551 577, +359 895 551 575
reservations@piry.bg

www.piry.bg

THE CHARM OF PIRY COMPLEX

Bansko is renowned as a ski resort, but PiRY
ComPleX (Bansko, 2nd km on the Banya road, phone:
0895 551 577; www.piry.bg) offers all amenities for an
unforgettable vacation and will show you that travelling
to the region is worth. Piry Complex is linked to the
hot mineral waters that spring in the Banya village,
and besides in the swimming pools, the guest can have
running mineral water in the hotel rooms. The spa
centre has an indoor swimming pool, sauna and steam
bath. In the summer, there are outdoor pool, cocktail bar
and barbecue. The Cult Restaurant and the Cheverme
Tavern offer excellent cuisine and pleasant ambience,
and the two lobby bars are great for having a drink
with friends. The complex also has a volleyball and two
football fields preferred as summer training ground
for football teams, as well as fitness centre. The hotels
youngest guest can have fun in the special childrens
corner.
BALNEOHOTEL THERMA PALACE:
SPA MAGIC FROM THE NORTH
A spa vacation in five star hotel in one of the
wonderful parts of the northern Bulgarian Black Sea coast
will satisfy even the most demanding taste. The best hotel

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We sell peace and quiet,

we give back health

Kranevo, 25 Primorska St
reception: +359 885 884 600 (ext. 100) | reservations: +359 886 698 944
oce@thermapalace.com | www.thermapalace.com/en/index.html

Rejuvenate your body and revive your spirit

in the newest luxurious spa hotel on the
Bulgarian Black Sea coast, which combines the
age-old traditions of healing mud treatment in
Bulgaria with the latest medical equipment.
42 luxurious rooms, studios
and apartments with sea view
Italian all inclusive restaurant,
Russian a la carte restaurant,
lobby bar with sky panoramic terrace
Modern fitness hall, yoga place,
children playground, and many more
Choose the best treatment for you on
www.thermapalace.com

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fitting into this description is bAlneohotel theRmA

PAlACe (Kranevo, 25 Primorska St, phone: 0886 698 944;
www.thermapalace.com), which opened in 2014. Therma
Palace's guests relax in a quiet nature, just 300 meters
from the beach, within a beautiful park, close to the
Baltata reserve and a thermal source. The healing qualities
of the mineral water in the hotel, the mud therapy, the
various massages, therapies and spa treatments applied
by experienced professionals, turn balneohotel Thermal
Palace into one of Bulgaria's most energising locations.
The hotel offers 42 luxurious rooms, all with a sea view,

Interhotel Sandanski

HOTEL & SPA COMPLEX BANSKO

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wellbeing

THERMO SPA HOTEL

Rimska Banya
5 kms from Bansko, in an area
with 75 hot mineral springs
90 luxury rooms and apartments
with bath-tub and mineral water
modern SPA & Wellness centre
2 mineral swimming pools, Jacuzzi, sauna,
steam bath, Turkish bath, ice room,
relaxation zone, and massages

Banya Village, near Razlog

phone: 00359 7445 2144
mobile: +359 889 005566
reception@rimskabania.com
www.rimskabania.com

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outdoor and indoor swimming pools with mineral water,
Finnish sauna, aroma-herbal sauna, salt room, steam bath
and many other conveniences that turn the stay here into a
feast for the senses and the health.
THERMO SPA HOTEL RIMSKA BANIA:
MOUNTAIN PARADISE
Only 2 hours drive from Sofia and 5 kms from the
Bansko resort a real spa treasure exists 75 hot mineral
springs flow in and around the village of Banya.
Thermo Spa Hotel Rimska Bania (Banya,
Razlog municipality, phone: 0889 005 566; www.
rimskabania.com) gives you the best of this wealth. The
hotel has all the advantages and amenities of being close
to Bansko, but is quiet and far from the resort's
overdevelopment. Thermo Spa Hotel Rimska Bania
offers 90 luxuriously furnished rooms and apartments
with a bath and mineral water, a modern Spa &
Wellness centre, restaurant, sport facilities, and two
excellently equipped conference halls. The mineral
pools are two, and the list of therapies and spa pleasures
include the use of Jacuzzi, sauna, steam bath, Turkish
bath, ice room, relax zone and different massages. The
place is exceptionally good for holiday the whole year
round. For the children, there are playing ground, kid's
corner and sports field for tennis, volleyball, basketball
and football.

Thermo Spa Hotel Rimska Bania

98

destination

99

plovdiv

plovdiv

Fast forward to Bulgaria's most

charming city!

-
!

by Dimitar Ivanov;
photography by Anthony Georgieff

This autumn, all the talk is about Plovdiv. The reason

is not the city's marvellous old architecture, with which
are enamoured both Bulgarians and foreigners. Neither
it is its history as one of Europe's oldest cities, or its
remarkable restaurants and the overwhelming calmness
which takes over you while strolling along the centre.
This September, Plovdiv made the news as the first city
chosen as the European Capital of Culture.
Plovdiv will take the title in 2019, together with one
of the Italian cities of Cagliari, Lecce, Matera, Perugia,
Ravenna, and Siena. The European Capital of Culture
contest has been organised since 1985 and brings to the
chosen cities potential assets as exposure, investments,
attention, and international recognition.
The choice of Plovdiv surprised some in Bulgaria.
Among the four Bulgarian cities that competed for the

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100

deStination

A mosaic from the Small Basilica

title, Plovdiv had the second cheapest budget, of 22.3

million euro. For comparison, Sofia had planned to
spent about 90 million euro, Varna's expenses amounted
to 68 million euro and the old Bulgarian capital, Veliko
Tarnovo, had budget of 20 million euro.
But why Plovdiv? The jury evaluated its budget as
realistic and sound, and its programme as having "a
sincere evaluation of the challenges for the city." The
commission was also impressed by the special attention
to Plovdiv's Gypsy community. The European dimension
of Plovdiv's plan was probably also taken in notice during
the voting. The city has planned to cooperate with
Istanbul, Thessaloniki and Bucharest.
According to the cultural anthropologist Prof. Ivaylo
Dichev, Plovdiv is not only a place of "empty antiquity
with everyone is so keen to boast about" but it is a place
of "living culture which is the most important in such
competition." Indeed, what makes Plovdiv so charming
is not its historical heritage but the way in which this
heritage is a vital part of the everyday life. The streets
and alleys in Central Plovdiv are not a part of a sterile
museum, but a living landscape where besides the
tourists, the ordinary citizens live, work and enjoy life.

deStination

101

Plovdiv is also a marvellously diverse city, Bulgarians,

Turks, Greeks, Armenians, Jews and Roma live together
in it.
The city by the hills, as Plovdiv is commonly known,
is the home of 350,000 people and is the second
biggest in Bulgaria. The mighty Maritsa runs through
it. The scion of a Neolithic settlement which existed
about 8,000 years ago, through the ages Plovdiv has
been Thracians and Roman, Byzantine, Bulgarian and
Ottoman city. It has changed its name many times, it has
been called Eumolpia and Philippopolis, Pulpudeva and
Trimontium, Paldin and Filibe.
The Turkish word tepe, or hill, is still used for the hills
of Plovdiv, as the city is situated on and around seven
hills (one of which doesn't exist anymore). The city's
oldest historical core is on Trihalmie, or the Three Hills,
where three of the Plovdiv's tepe are huddled together.
On them is the Ancient theatre from the beginning
of the 2nd Century. One of the best preserved Roman
theatres in the Balkans, it had a capacity of 5,000 viewers
and was discovered and restored in 1968-1979. Today, the
theatre continues attracting visitors as a scene of festivals,
theatre and other culture events.

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DENTACCORD
d e n t a l

c l i n i c

You
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oal!
mile is our g !

Aesthetics
Smile e
Sculpturing
Implantology
Parodontology
Oral & Maxillo- facial Surgery
Plovdiv, 4A Brezovska St
Phone: 032 651 214; 0885 940 626; 0888 625 145

www. dentaccord.com

102

advertorial

advertorial

103

In 2019, Bulgaria will have its first European Capital

of Culture. In September 2014, Plovdiv was chosen for
the prestigious title. With its unique atmosphere and
ambitious programme, which will include over 60 events,
Plovdiv promises to be the it place for visiting to all who
are interested in culture tourism.
United by the motto of the conception of European
Capital of Culture 2019, "Plovdiv Together," the city
has the ambitious task to unify through culture people
of different generations, ethnicities and religions in the
whole South-East Central Region of Bulgaria. The city
also aims to integrate its historical layers with its present
and its vision for future development. "Plovdiv Together"
aims as well to strengthen the connections between all
these people and the territory they inhabit, through
reviving of public spaces, reimagined as spaces for culture,
sport, recreation and entertainment.
Besides culture politics, Plovdiv doesn't stop
developing its historical heritage with elaborating
all forms of culture tourism. One of the main tourist
objects in Plovdiv recently celebrated its first birthday
since restoration. The Small Basilica is an early
Christian church from the 5-6th centuries. With
its charming architecture it gives the visitors the
opportunity to enjoy and explore about 120 sq.m of
extremely well preserved multi-coloured mosaics, and

to see the only baptisterium with a cross-shaped marble

pool preserved in Bulgaria.
Plovdiv continues the tradition of enlivening of
historical locations all over the city. A project for about
5 million leva will restore the Grand Basilica. Situated in
the city centre, it is from the 4-6th centuries and is the
biggest early Christian church discovered in Bulgaria. It
is also one of the biggest in the Balkans. After the project
is finished, in 2017, the visitors will have the chance to
see and enjoy the one of a kind mosaics which once
covered the floor of the Grand Basilica. They cover about
2,000 sq.m, date from the 5th Century and have motives
without a match in Bulgaria. The mosaics are in several
colours and depict birds.
The unquestioned symbol of Plovdiv, the Ancient
Theatre, is one of the best preserved ancient theatres in
the world. Adapted to the modern cultural life, it still is
a scene for a number of shows, concerts, opera and other
performances. It is also one of the main spaces for the
Autumn Arts Salon, an event which traditionally gathers
people of art from all over the world.
The most visited site in Plovdiv in recent years is the
renovated Roman Stadium and the screening of the
first in Bulgaria 3D-film dedicated to the place. On the
Roman Stadium, which in the years of its splendour could
provide seats for 30,000 people, you can now watch a

Anthony Georgieff

Anthony Georgieff

BULGARIA WILL HAVE ITS FIRST

EUROPEAN CAPiTAL OF CULTURE

reenactment of the sports games held in Antiquity there,

and they were similar to the ancient Olympic Games.
In recent years Plovdiv, one of Europe's oldest cities,
has established itself as a developed industrial and logistic
centre, too. The investors are attracted by the developed
road and railway network, the airport, and not on the last
place by the qualified labour force. About 70,000 people
work in production, and the IT and outsourcing sectors
are rapidly growing. Plovdiv is also a centre for higher
education, boasting seven universities and about 40,000
students.
Plovdiv a modern city with 8,000 years of history!
The place to be revived by the touch of art and history.

PLOVDIV MUNICIPALITY
TOURIST INFORMATION
Central Square,
fax: +359 32 656 794
Dr Stoyan Chomakov St,
phone: +359 32 620 453
tourism@plovdiv.bg
www.visitplovdiv.com
www.facebook.com/VisitPlovdiv

104

destination

(Continued from p101)

( . 101)

Situated at the feet of Trihalmie, the Ancient

Stadium from the 2nd Century had a capacity of
30,000 people. Today part of it is restored, and is one
of the most attractive parts of the city. Another site
of the ancient past of Plovdiv is the recently restored
Small Basilica with wonderful mosaics from the 5-6th
centuries.
The Old Town with its multicoloured houses is also
on the Thihalmie and is probably the most specific
thing remaining in the memories of the visitors. The
walk along its cobbled streets is a real pleasure and
among the most interesting sites are the Kuyumdzhieva
House where is the Ethnography Museum, as well as the
Balabanova and Hindliyanova houses, the Nedkovich
House, Dr Stoyan Chomakov's house, the Mavridi
House and the Yellow School.
Plovdiv is also a city of different religions. Besides the
Bulgarian East Orthodox churches, the St Ludwig
Catholic Cathedral, the Armenian and the Protestant
churches, there are two functioning mosques from the
15th Century, the Dzhuma Mosque next to the Ancient
Stadium and Imaret Mosque. Plovdiv is also the home of
the only functioning synagogue in Bulgaria after the one
in Sofia.

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Modern, stylish, cosy

Park Hotel Sankt Peterburg
Bulgaria, Plovdiv, 97 Bulgaria Blvd
phone: +359 32 91 03
marketing@sphotel.net
www.sphotel.net

Wherever you are in Plovdiv for a business or as a tourist, the 4-star Park Hotel
Sankt Peterburg is the place where you will feel at home. The highest, and most
contemporary hotel in the city is conveniently close to the centre, and has
comfortable rooms and amenities that make your stay a real pleasure.
Spacious standard rooms, studious and luxurious apartments
Main and business restaurant, panoramic bar, children's centre
Three conference rooms with capacity of 50 to 300 guests
Aqua Park

International
Congress Centre

Bulgaria, Plovdiv, 3
7 Tsar Boris III Obedinitel Blvd
phone: +359 32 902 311
congress@fair.bg; www.fair.bg

Varna and Burgas

Airports Welcome You!

During the World Festival of

Animated Film which took place
in Varna from 10 to 14 September,
16 filmmakers created 30-second
animation videos on the topic "Varna
and Burgas Airports Welcome You!",
presenting the spirit and activities
of Fraport Twin Star Airport
Management AD.
A jury comprised of representatives
of Fraport Twin Star Airport
Management AD and the World
Festival of Animated Film
determined the winners in the
competition.
The jury ranked Dimitar
Kostadinov on 1st place, Nikolaj
Ivanov on 2nd place and awarded
two additional prices to Kristina
Gatzova and Momchil Grozdanov.
The awards were given at an official
ceremony by Ms. Aletta von
Massenbach CEO of Fraport Twin
Star Airport Management AD. You
can watch the winning movie on
www.youtube.com/
watch?v=pe6rZmdl7W8.

high news fraport

105

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106

wine & dine

Sofia
for you

The restaurants, bars and nightlife in

the capital are diverse, friendly and
aordable

,

,

by Dimitar Ivanov

Night Sofia impresses with the variety, quality, and

dynamic of its nightlife. The first thing that strikes the
visitors is the diversity of modern restaurants, cafes, discos,
clubs, and pubs. Even the ones that look more basic on the
outside, are well maintained and pleasant on the inside,
and the fresh interior is rule of thumb for the most part.
The owners and designers know that it is not necessary to
go over the top on luxury to make the client feel good.
One of the pleasant Sofia paradoxes is that these places
are full of people all day long. The food is famously good,
the choice is enormous, and the prices are reasonable.
Keep in mind that good restaurants, and clubs are not
concentrated only in the centre.
The best way to kickstart the night is to have a dinner at
a restaurant. The establishments with traditional Bulgarian
cuisine are indelible part of Sofia's scene, but in the past
few years the restaurant crowd has been enjoying a growing
diversity. The capital boasts restaurants specialising in a
variety of culinary traditions, from Nepalese, to Moroccan
to Turkish, and the latest trends are establishments with
their own interpretation of Mediterranean and fusion
food, as well as restaurants for healthy and even vegan
food. Good restaurants are particularly devoted to their
wine lists, which include excellent vintages from Bulgaria,
the Old and the New world.
Check in advance if it is necessary to book a table;
there are eating places where this is the safest bet to find
free seats. Most restaurants take orders at least till 10 pm.
Choose the way you dress according to the occasion, but
don't get too stressed about that. In Sofia, and in Bulgaria,
as a whole, there is not a formal dress code for going out at
night, therefore the suit and tie are not obligatory.
GRAPE CENTRAL:
WINE IS (A WAY OF) LIFE
For GRAPe CentRAl wine is (a way of ) life, a daily
experience for the senses which is no necessarily expensive
or sophisticated. Situated on the charming Samuil Str. (45),
the wine bar is a great place for pleasant meetings, business

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(Continues on p108)

( . 108)

advertorial

Behind the
scenes, at
Grape Central
wine bar and
restaurant

107

One of the best places for

fine wine and dine in Sofia,
Grape Central restaurant is
the realm of Ivailo Ignatov.
He is the youngest member
of the team, but still he has
15 years of experience in the
fine dine business. In 2013,
Ignatov discovered cooking
as his new vocation and
for today his ideas form the
basis of Grape Central's cuisine. In July 2014, he graduated
second in his Cuisine de Base class at Le Cordon Bleu, the
prestigious culinary academy in Paris.
What is the feeling of changing the restaurant's dining area
with an even "hotter" place, the kitchen?
It is hard to explain, these places are like different
planets. In the kitchen, the challenge and pressure are
enormous, everything is tighter and more organised. If you
make a mistake, you start preparing the dish from scratch.
And now I began to understand why some chefs are quite
"emotional" during work.
What inspired you to take up cooking?
Necessity, actually. From the very beginning we knew
that we will find it hard to hire a chef who would comply
with our vision of what the food in Grape Central should
be. I gave cooking a try, put a lot of enthusiasm and energy
in it, and here I am. (Laughs)
What is the best advice you have learnt at Le Cordon
Bleu?
Hunter S. Thompson's words "He that is taught only by
himself has a fool for a master" sum the best what I learnt
in Paris. I learnt a lot in the academy, the most important
knowledge is the power of small things, and the French
cuisine system.
To what extent the menu of Grape Cenral reflects you as a
personality and a chef ?
Our menu is a reflection of our concept for food, of
what our guests like and would like. Of course, there is a
45 Tsar Samuil St | +359 889 820 444 | info@grape-central.com

bit of me in the menu, as I have an individual approach

towards classical dishes, and each day I allow myself a bit
more freedom.
Do you have a favourite dish in the menu?
You should try our Duck magret & Foie Gras terrine
with prunes and cognac. It is prepared entirely after
the French system, without any improvisations, and is
completely different from our other dishes.
What connects good food and good wine?
These are two simple things connected by two other
ingredients of our daily life, intelligent approach and love
for life.

Recipe: Chocolate Mousse

Ingredients: 6 eggs, 6 tbs sugar,
200 gr dark chocolate
Preparation: Melt the chocolate in a dry pan on a
hot water bath. When it is completely liquid, add
the yolks. Whisk the egg whites with the sugar until
firm, then add them to the chocolate mixture. After
a thorough stir, pour the mousse in cups.

/Grape Central

www.grape-central.com

108

NEW GENERATION OF HEALTHY DINING

La Skara Restaurant
To eat well and healthy
in Soa has never been
easier!
Book a table at La
Skara Restaurant
Choose vegetables
and fresh marinated
meat from a selection
made by chefs
Grill by yourself
in the BBQ
Enjoy
the result!

1
2
3
4

(Continued from p106)

lunches, lazy brunches, private parties or just a place

for having a glass of wine. Uniting the professionalism,
experience and passion of its creators to wine and food, the
wine bar offers a variety of top quality and interesting wines
from all over the world, delicious food with special attention
to ingredients and people with whom you can talk about
wine, but not only.
Each month Grape Central ( www.grape-central.com) offers
over 10 different wines sold by the glass. At least one time
per month it organises wine tasting evenings when you
can meet the people behind the wines, to learn more from
them or just to enjoy the evening with great company and
wonderful wine. The food is prepared intelligently, with
lots of curiosity and love by Ivailo Ignatov. Last but not
least, Grape Central is one of the few places in Sofia offering
Saturday brunch with wholesome food.
LA SKARA: A NEW DIMENSION
OF HEALTHY EATING
Some restaurants serve not only food, but a wholesome
philosophy for green way of living. lA skARA
(Studentski Grad, next to block 60, phone: 0889 369 369;
www.la-skara.com) is one of the most revolutionary. In
the restaurant products processed with chemicals and
conservatives are not permitted, the meat is marinated

WELCOME TO KANAAL,
SOFIAS UNIQUE CRAFT BEER BAR
LOCATED IN AN OLD FAMILY HOUSE CLOSE TO
ZAIMOV PARK AND ALONG THE PERLOVSKA RIVER,
KANAAL IS A COZY BAR WITH WARM AND RELAXING
ATMOSPHERE, GATHERING MULTICULTURAL
AUDIENCE AND THE GROWING COMMUNITY OF
BEER ENTHUSIASTS IN SOFIA. KANAAL IS THE ONLY
PLACE TO FIND A STUNNING SELECTION OF MORE
THAN 250 BOTTLED CRAFT BEERS FROM EUROPE
AND ACROSS THE WORLD. WHETHER ITS A TASTY
WHEAT BEER, OR A TRAPPIST CLASSIC ALE, A BITTER
INDIA PALE ALE, A SOUR CHERRY LAMBIC OR A DEEP
DARK SMOKED PORTER, THE KNOWLEDGEABLE AND
FRIENDLY PEOPLE BEHIND THE BAR WILL BE HAPPY
TO RECOMMEND THE RIGHT BEERS FOR YOU. AN
EXPERIENCE TO REMEMBER FOR ALL BEER LOVERS!

( . 106)

La Skara



!

1
2

La Skara

3
4

!
Sofia, Students town, next to block 60 | phone: 0889 369 369
, , . 60 | : 0889 369 369
www.la-skara.com | www.facebook.com/laskarasofia

GRAPE CENTRAL:
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GRAPe CentRAl (www.grape-central.com)
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WE ARE OPEN:
MONDAYTHURSDAY 17:30 24:00
FRIDAY, SATURDAY 17:30 02:00
SUNDAY CLOSED

2 MADRID BLVD | MOBILE: +359 882 856 346

WWW.KANAAL.BG

110

wine & dine

Cosiness, warmth, elegance,

unique style and irresistible food
Modern interior with vintage
touch
A variety of meat roasted on
wooden coal
Salads, appetisers and desserts
for all tastes
Feel the charm of home-cooked
food in a lunch menu available in
weekdays and weekends
Sofia; 150 Vartopo St | reservations: 088 812 1061
www.ventana.bg

The Miyabi Restaurant is tempting with its rich

menu of traditional Japanese dishes, and the
manager and the chef of the restaurant, Petar
Mihalchev, guarantees for their authentic taste.
In Miyabi you can enjoy the classical Remen and
Soba, as well as seasonal dishes like Shabu-shabu
and Sukiyaki. The restaurant oers a varied sushi
menu and has a cosy lounge, accommodating
40 people.
Sofia
5 Stara Planina Str

reservations: 0887 275 064

in emulsions of natural oils and herbs, and the vegetables

are organic. The most innovative step is the preparation
of food: in La Skara clients can barbecue their food by
themselves on a charcoal grill. Aspirators absorb the
smoke and leave no smells in the restaurant. La Skara
has a kid's corner with animators, and for those loving to
have fun, there is live music in the evenings.
VENTANA: UNRIVALLED TASTE
WITH IMAGINATION
Far from the noise of the busy city but close to each
part of it, VentAnA FooD. Wine. GARDen (Sofia, 150
Vartopo St, phone: 0888 121 061; www.ventana.bg) offers a
romantic escape in the calmness and cosiness. Situated in
Musagenitsa, close to Sofia Airport, VENTANA is a place
where food tastes like cooked by a Bulgarian grandmother,
with a rich variety of carefully selected wines and dishes,
lunch meals, fresh grill on charcoal and fantastic desserts.
In the friendly and warm atmosphere of VENTANA you
will easily feel at home, regardless of whether you are on a
romantic dinner, lunch with colleagues or on a huge party
with friends and family.
MAGICAL TASTES IN TURQUOISE
tuRQuoise RestAuRAnt (90 Bakston Blvd; phone:
855 1100; www.turquoise.bg) has been for years the top
choice for lovers of Turkish cuisine in Sofia. Situated at the
"LA SKARA":

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skARA" ( , . 60, : 089 369 369;
www.la-skara.com) -.
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VENTANA:

, , VentAnA FooD. Wine.
GARDen (, . "" 150, : 0888 121 061;
www.ventana.bg)
. . ,
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Soa, 90 Bratya Buxton Blvd

phone: 02 855 1100; 0878 155 070

The Culinary Magic of the Bosphorus

www.turquoise.bg

foot of Vitosha mountain, the restaurant has a great view

and an air of blissful relaxation, and is famed as the best
place for Turkish food in Sofia. In Turquoise you enjoy
delicious meals like ezme, i Kfte and Adana Kebab
prepared by original Turkish recipes in wooden stove and
on barbecue by nine selected chefs from Turkey.
MIYABI: AUTHENTIC JAPAN
miYAbi (5 Stara Planina St; phone: 0887 275 064)
serves the most popular and authentic Japanese dishes
tempura, sukiyaki, soba, ramen, and all kinds of sushi that
you can think of. The interior and the serving manner are
according to the rules of Japanese style - a reason enough
to stay for both lunch and dinner.
PASTORANT: WHERE PASTA IS A PASSION
If well made pasta is something you are particular about,
you may have already discovered PAstoRAnt (16 Tsar
Asen St, phone 981 4482; www.pastorant.eu). The peaceful
romantic ambiance of the Italian restaurant, which is situated
in a tucked away street in central Sofia, matches the refined
dishes with delicate spices and the well-conceived wine list.
In summer, the restaurant has also a great garden.
The Bulgarian capital has a developed clubbing culture
that is frequented by locals and loved by foreigners. Most
of the foreigners in Sofia are not expatriates but tourist,
drawn in by the free loving spirit of Bulgaria's capital

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wine & dine

PASTORANT
16 Tsar Asen St, Sofia | phone: 981 4482; 0887 026 190
working hours: 12:0022:30

If you like pasta, or small romantic restaurants, combine the two and
come to Pastorant. The low light and intimate atmosphere will make
your visit here a study in enjoyment. Choose from our carefully selected
Italian specialities that include fresh salads and antipasti, delicious
entres, all sorts of pasta and tasty meat dishes. A good meal in
Pastorant should be accompanied by a bottle of wine from our worldwide selection (Austria,
New Zealand, Chile, Sicily
and more) to round off your
evening of culinary pleasure.
There is also a pleasant
summer garden for the
warm months.

night scene. "I am thrilled, the party here never stops," the
24-year-old student from Greece Giannis says, "People are
pretty open to foreigners and easy to communicate with.
In some cases the Bulgarians are even the pro-active side in
the communication," he adds.
KANAAL: More than beer
Inspired of the culture and spirit of the Netherlands and
Belgium, but with authentic Sofia character, KANAAL
(Sofia, 2 Madrid Blvd, www.kanaal.bg) is the only bar in
the city specialising in craft beers. The selection is unique
for Bulgaria and is on a par with the best niche bars in
Europe, stressing on boutique, interesting, rare beers from
small breweries in Belgium, the Netherlands, England,
Denmark, Italy and the US. The owners supply more than
250 types of beer, including classics like the golden Duvel,
Trappist Westmalle, wheat Vedett, and more exotic
varieties like bitter hopped India Pale Ale, fruit beers, sour
lambics, light craft lagers and many more. You can buy
beer for home from the bar, or attend the tastings or beer
events organised by KANAAL. The bar is also the right
place to be in Saturday night for a DJ party with Jazz, soul,
funk, disco, indie and modern electronic music.
KANAAL organises movie screenings, bazaars, concerts
and poetry readings, for the newest events check the
programme on www.facebook.com/kanaal.bg.

113

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112

114

healthcare

To take care

of future
Regardless of whether you want
to stay healthy or to conceive,
in Bulgaria you have all advantages
of modern reproductive medicine
and gynaecology

by Dimitar Ivanov

Stress, unhealthy lifestyle, age, illnesses: the reasons

for the reproductive problems of many couples today
are many and complex. Different venereal diseases and
infections, such as chlamydia, as well as immune and
endocrine disorders can all cause sterility. The role of
unhealthy living (smoking especially) and the everyday
stress shouldn't be underestimated they lower the
organism's immunity, and harms the spermatozoids
and the ova. The later age at which both women and
men decide to have their first child, is also a factor for
conception problems.
According to the data, about 170,000 couples in
Bulgaria have reproductive problems. As a result, many
of the affected feel inferior and ashamed, and the
psychological pressure can cause a conflict within the
couple.
Fortunately, in the past few decades reproductive
medicine has been developing with an astonishing
speed. Many couples, who until recently would be
written off as hopeless cases, are now parents of one or
more healthy children. According to some data, about
5 percent of children born in Bulgaria are conceived
by assisted reproduction. The specialised Bulgarian
Fund for Assisted Reproduction finance several in vitro
procedures. To begin such procedure, a couple shouldn't
be legally married. All they have to do is to seek help
which is officially accredited.
In vitro is the most popular method of assisted
reproduction. In it, eggs and sperm fuse outside the
woman's body and after several days the embryo is
implanted into the womb. In the zygote intrafallopian
transfer, or ZIFT, the procedure is the same but the
embryo is implanted not in the uterus but in the
fallopian tubes. Gamete intrafallopian transfer, or GIFT,
is the injection of ova and sperm into the fallopian

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115

tubes. Intracytoplasmic sperm injection, or ICSI, is also

applied; this is injecting sperm directly into the egg.
Afterwards, the embryo is implanted directly in the
uterus or the fallopian tubes.
Another possibility of becoming a parent at a more
mature age, is freezing of genetic material. Ova and
spermatozoids can be frozen and used years later, as
the preserved material keeps the characteristics of
the younger organism which has produced them. In
cryobanks, embryos and stem cells can also be frozen.
In case of a serious problem with sperm and eggs,
or possibility of passing a hereditary condition, the
reproductive material may come from a donor. In
Bulgaria reproductive donorship is voluntary. Donors
mustn't have chronic diseases, they have to be between
18 and 34 years old for women, and must not be under
custody. Donors are registered in the Executive Agency
for Transplantations, but remain anonymous to the
recipients. The recipients, however, have information
about the donor's blood type, education, profession, and
physical characteristics.
(Continues on p120)

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116

advertorial

117

new delivery ward

at dr Shterev hoSpital
makes Dr Shterev Hospital remembered with a positive
emotion long after the birth of the baby.

brand new roomS

for the poSt-delivery period

In addition, Dr Shterev Hospital is expanding its

team with new highly qualified midwives who will
enable the personnel to provide personalised care and
attention. The final goal of the hospital is to offer new
improved conditions and comfort for the patients and
create the right homely and cozy atmosphere.
The new post-delivery rooms provide a comfortable
Dr Shterev Hospital's team has always believed in new environment for you to deliver your baby. All rooms
have the complete equipment, needed to make your
beginnings and continuous development. Therefore
post-delivery experience comfortable and sound. Each
the hospital started a procedure of expansion of its
postpartum room provides a private bathroom with
delivery ward, featuring new premises, amenities and
a shower, a flat screen TV, 24-hour Wi-Fi, toiletries,
conveniences to satisfy the needs of all patients.
disposable slippers, towels, bathrobe, etc. and space for
The original delivery ward was opened in 2006 and
family and friends, all with a good taste and conditions
with every year more and more women and couples
to rest after delivery. Every room is supplied with
chose the hospital and its team for one of the most
hospital system-call, a system for signalling the medical
precious and cherished moments in life giving birth
team on duty.
to a child! Due to this fact the current ward reached
its utmost capacity and the time for a positive change
Special tailor-made delivery packaGeS
Dr Shterev Hospital offers a special delivery price
arrived. With regard to this, Dr Shterev Hospital
package which includes all you need before the labor
started a complete renovation of the delivery ward for
starts, the labour itself (normal or surgical), the postthe comfort and satisfaction of the mothers and their
partum period and recovery of the mother. The price
newborn babies.
package is so all-inclusive that the only thing you need
After the renovation which will be completed by
when coming to the hospital for delivery is to bring
mid-November 2014, the patients will benefit from
additional 10 new rooms, new halls for normal delivery your ID card and your pregnancy belly.
The delivery package provides the medical care in
and operation rooms for cesarean section, new intensive
the preparation and conduct of the delivery such as
care unit for post-delivery monitoring, as well as two
consultations prior to the delivery with an internist
new halls for neonatology care.
(including ECG) and an anaesthetist, a pelvic
The hospital has already equipped a new, attractive
examination, diagnostic ultrasound and monitoring
and unique newborn hospital discharge hall.
of the foetal heart rate in the hospitalisation day,
Skilled compaSSionate Staff
parturition (normal birth and Cesarean section),
Dr Shterev Hospital's most cherished asset is its
anaesthesia, daily medical examinations (doctors visits)
staff. Whether your labor is short or long, delivery is
by an obstetrician during the postnatal recovery stay.
vaginal or with a C-section, you choose an epidural
All the care offered at Dr Shterev Hospital gives you
or natural delivery, the doctors and nurses are here to
the opportunity to enjoy the greatest event in your life
support you in every step of the way. The empathy
the birth of a new life!
and responsiveness of the trained personnel is what
Sofia, 25-31, Hristo Blagoev St. | phone: +359 2 920 09 01 | contact@shterevhospital.com

118

advertorial

advertorial

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120

balkanS
travel
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beamfiction
XXX 121

healthcare

(Continued from p115)

( . 115)

Regardless of whether a woman has reproductive

problems or not, her health is of utmost importance
for her good physical and psychological condition.
Prophylactic gynaecological check-ups at least one time
in the year are strongly recommended, and the procedure
should cover more than the basic check-up. The latest
improvements in medicine can and should be a part
of the prophylaxis. Echography is already a standard
procedure in regular check-ups and following up of
the pregnancy. The method uses ultrasound, does not
involve radiation exposure and doesn't harm the tissues,
there are not side effects and no pain.
The good gynaecologists and specialised clinics offer
colposcopy as a part of the prophylaxis. It is painless and
non-invasive method which allows a close examination
of the cervix, the vagina and the pudenda under a
magnification of up to 40 times. Another recommended
method is core biopsy, where some material is taken
for histological research. The results from it define the
further individual treatment.
Hysteroscopy is another novelty in gynaecology, a
direct examination of uterus. The method helps for
discovering of alternations in uterine cavity and the
cervix, and a surgical treatment can be performed
straightaway. The method is minimally invasive, and
the procedure is performed under regional anaesthesia.
Hysteroscopy is good for patients with painful or strong
menstruation flow, bleeding, formations on the uterine
cavity and the cervix, accretion, sterility and miscarriages.
When surgery is needed, laparoscopy offers quick
recovery and excellent results. This alternative to
traditional "open surgery" approach is minimally
invasive and is performed under full anaesthesia. In
the patient's abdomen are made several microscopical
openings, through them a micro camera and instruments
are pushed in and used. Laparoscopy's advantages are
enormous. The bleeding is minimal, and the recovery is
quick and effective.
Women healthcare doesn't end at the door of the
doctor's office. It should be a part of the everyday life.
For millennia, yoga has been a proven technique which
keeps the spirit and the body in a top condition. Yoga
can be practiced during pregnancy, too. Actually,
pregnancy is a great time to start doing yoga as the
exercises are light and undemanding, ideal for beginners.
The only, and very important rule, is to do yoga under
specialists' supervision. Yoga can help a lot in the
postpartum period, too it will ease the depression
attacks and will help you to go back to you prepregnancy body quickly and without much effort.

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Vagabond Media is happy to announce its cooperation with

Penguin Travel, the travel agency based in Copenhagen and
Soa, to provide a new service to our readers: experience
for yourself all the places, sites, events and everything else
you read about in Vagabond, Bulgaria's English Magazine.

City Breaks

Heritage Tours

Eccentric Bulgaria
Incentive Travel

We now oer highly customisable, tailor-made tours to

just about anywhere in Bulgaria (and of course through the
Balkans) that you have read about in this journal during
the past six years. Just go on www.vagabond.bg, nd your
destination, and drop us an email. We will provide you with
a quote immediately.
Our new service includes anything from half-a-day tour of
Soa to a week-long journey o-o-o-the-beaten track
through Bulgaria.
Some examples of what we have to oer:

Jewish Bulgaria

Once Bulgaria was a major Jewish centre in southeastern Europe, which did not
deport about 49,000 of its Jews during the Second World War. Now the Jewish
community in the country is small, but the heritage remains sometimes wellkept and maintained, but often overlooked, ignored and abandoned. With a
highly-qualied guide, who has authored many articles and a book about Jewish
heritage in the Balkans, you can now visit some or all of the Jewish-related sites.
Expect to discover some surprising gateways to a forgotten yet potent reminder of
a world that no longer exists.

Ottoman Bulgaria

Did you know that until the late 19th century Bulgaria was a part of a powerful
empire spanning on three continents and incorporating lands as varied as what
is now Egypt, Greece, Israel, Turkey and Iraq? Modern Bulgaria is dotted with
remnants of the Ottoman Empire bridges, mosques, public baths, residential
architecture, water fountains... This is an exciting tour that will give some unique
insights into why Bulgaria is what it is at the beginning of the 21st century.

Communist Bulgaria

In 1990 Bulgaria was the only Warsaw Pact country to re-elect its former Communists in a multiparty election. In 2013 Bulgaria is the only country in Eastern Europe that has not demolished,
dismantled or at least put in context its hundreds if not thousands of Communist-era monuments,
statues and architectural complexes varying from monstrosities such as the Founders of Bulgaria
monument in Shumen and the ying saucer building at Buzludzha to the menacing Red Army
monument in Central Soa. Many of those have been left to the elements to wither, just as the
ideology that once inspired them. In a generation, they will be gone, so now is the time to see
them, experience them and see for yourself what Eastern Europe looked like 25 years ago.
Our tours are highly customisable and can be done for anything from a few hours in central Soa to a week-long
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Just send us an email on travel@vagabond.bg with a specific inquiry and we will be happy to oblige.

www.vagabond.bg

www.penguin.bg

www.penguin.dk

122

property

Bright
future

The prognoses for the development

of the real estate market in Bulgaria
are optimistic. Here is why

by Dimitar Ivanov

There are two conditions for a stable interest in real

estate. The first is the economic and financial stability.
This includes the access to banking credit for purchasing
apartments, offices, or shops, as well as the satisfactory
level of buyers' demand. The second condition is
connected to the first one, and it is political stability.
Recently, the country emitted mixed signals to foreign
investors with the second snap parliamentary elections
in less than two years. The results from the vote on 5
October are key for forming of a strong political majority,
which is important for the predictability of the business
climate.
The overall state of the Bulgarian real estate market is
an indication that despite some challenges, the economy
is not affected by significant shocks. The average home
price of apartments in Sofia for the second quarter (the
last one for which the Bulgarian Statistic Institute has
official data) is 1,474 leva per sq.m. This is the highest
value since the beginning of 2011.
According to the property consultancy Bulgarian
Properties the prices of real estate in the Bulgarian capital
have dropped by 42 percent from their pre-crisis peak.
The correction is healthy, though the market is more
difficult than it was in the times when every investor
assumed more or less that the profits were guaranteed.
The positive side is that the country is far from
speculative bubble, and there are signs that the bottom
has been reached.
Brokers report of recent increase of deals. The property
sales in the Bulgarian capital for the first two quarters
of 2014 have risen by 1,6 percent on a year on year basis.
During the second quarter of the year, an average of 85
deals were made daily in Sofia. There is also a surge in
new mortgages, which speaks for the trust of banks in
the potential of the real estate market. For the second

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A COSY HOME IN AN OAK FOREST,

MINUTES AWAY FROM THE SEA
Luxurious residential complex on 0.25 hectares in one of the most beautiful places for relaxation
in Bulgaria. It is 10 kms north-east from Varna, the summer capital of Bulgaria,
16 kms from an international airport and 8 kms south of the Golden Sands Resort.
The apartments are with eastern and southern exposition,
with panoramic views from Cape Kaliakra to Cape Emine!
The greenery in the complex and the neighbouring area bring relaxation
and contact with nature, while the swimming pool with a children's section
and the open-air BBQ with a gazebo make your days in the complex more joyous and happy.

www.yavorad.com | office@yavorad.com | +359 898 711 658

124

property

quarter of 2014 the mortgages are 7,865, which is a rise of

5 percent in comparison to the same period of 2013.
But how about the offices? According to Forton,
during the second quarter of this year the newly rented
space in Sofia was 37,500 sq.m, which is twice more
than for the same period of 2013. The quarter to quarter
rise in the first half year of 2014 was 27 percent. Forton
also points out that office buyers were attracted from
the excellent return on investment, which for first class
offices in the capital was 9.25 percent.
The picture in the resort real estate is more diverse.
There are exceptional properties in unique locations
that are interesting for affluent international buyers.
Of course, the more "ordinary" and affordable offers
dominate the market. The properties in the resorts
are not as liquid, as the ones in the big cities, but there
are good opportunities for profit to be made in them
too. The rise in sales are indicative of this: in Nesebar
municipality the deals have risen by 12 percent. The
situation is similar in Samokov, where the ski resort
Borovets is situated; there according to Bulgarian
Properties the surge is 10 percent. In Smolyan and
Chepelare the deals are up by respectively 23.6 percent
and 27.5 percent. In Razlog, the trend is in the other
direction, the sales there are down by 12 percent in
comparison to the second quarter of 2013.
When you look for a reliable partner in Bulgaria, it
is important to pay attention not only to the projects
on which a company is working at the moment, but
also at its history that certifies professionalism. Yavor
AD (Varna, 117 Republika Blvd, phone: 0898 711
658; www.yavorad.com) was established in 1945 and
today specialises with construction, real estate, and
consultations. The company is open, transparent, and
adaptive. After the political changes in Bulgaria in 1989,
it was privatised, and in 1998 was listed on the Bulgarian
Stock Exchange. During the last five years the realised
projects of Yavor AD have a combined area of 15,000
sq.m. Over 20 million leva were invested in them.
Among the properties the company is offering is a
luxurious apartment complex on the Northern Black Sea.
The complex is among an oak forest, only 250 meters
away from the sea shore, and is situated on 2.5 ha of
quietness, beauty and greenery. The complex is 10 kms
from Varna, 8 kms from the Golden Sands resort, and 16
kms from Varna Airport. The apartments face east and
south, and boas a magnificent view from cape Kaliakra to
cape Emine. The owners have access to a large and a
children's pool, a barbecue with summer house, and many
other extras, the most valuable of which is the unique
nature.

125

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126

CHILDRENS ACADEMY
OF SCIENCES, ARTS
AND SPORTS

advertorial

dr irina shopova:
our kindergaren
is for children
who wan o
know more
From September 2014, the Kindergarten of the
Children's Academy of Arts, Sciences and Sport
opens a nursery group. The study is full day and
includes intensive learning of English language
with a native speaker, plus 10 hours weekly of
spoken and music English with a pedagogue
philologist and a pedagogue musicologist. In this
English-language environment, the children
"submerge" into the language and through games
and passive listening develop their linguistic and
musical skills. The group will be of 10 children.
Dr Irina Shopova, Director of Children's Academy
of Arts, Sciences and Sport, tells more.
Which children is the Academy's Kindergarten for?
The programme is for children who want to know
more. They ask questions and are interested in the
world, they want to know how the toys work and where
the birds go in the autumn.
Which are the strongest points in the Academy's
Kindergarten programme?
First, it is our team of professionals. Each of them
is not only a pedagogue, but also a specialist in his or
her field of knowledge or art. Our programme also
combines many and diverse intellectual activities with
many and diverse sport and recreational activities. With
the early-age language classes the children develop their
mother tongue following out our own programme, and
simultaneously study at least two foreign languages.
Let's not forget the intensive study of mathematics
and chess. The children have different class-rooms for
the different disciplines, have contact with a variety
of teachers, and native speakers are included in the
studying of foreign languages.

SATURDAYS AT THE CHILDREN'S ACADEMY

FOR SCIENCES, ARTS AND SPORT

Play, have fun and learn new things with the courses of our special programme!
Until 20 December!

Tell us more on the professionals who take care for the

children in the kindergarten?
Each of the teachers is a pedagogue and a specialist
in his or her field. Philologists, mathematicians and
musicologists work even with the youngest children in
the kindergarten. Many of our teachers have degrees in
sciences. A high-qualified team of medical specialists,
including a dentist, a psychologist, and a speechtherapist takes care for our students, too.
How does a regular day in the Academy's Kindergarten
go by?
A day in our kindergarten is dynamic and
entertaining. The children change class-rooms for their
language, mathematics, chess and arts classes, they go
to the logic games room, the gym or the swimming
pool. A significant part of the day is spent in the park,
where they are engaged in interesting observations on
the world, they do sports, they walk and play freely.
Throughout the day, the children learn and play a lot,
but because they have fun, they don't feel tired.

Room 1
9 am 10 am: English language class
10 am 12 am: History class for 7th grade
12 am 2 pm: Creative writing in Bulgarian
2 pm 3 pm: Philosophy for children
3 pm 4 pm: German language class
4 pm 5 pm: Persian language class
5 pm 6 pm: Italian language class
6 pm 8 pm: Biology class for 7th grade
Room 2
9 am 10.30 am: Piano class
10.30 am 12.00 am: Guitar class
12.00 am 2 pm: Pop and jazz singing class
with Militsa
2 pm 3 pm: Reading for small children
3 pm 4 pm: Techniques for fast reading
4 pm 8 pm: Piano, guitar, solfeggio
Room 3
8.30 am 10 am: Florisics and ikebana course
10 am 11.30 am: Acting class in English
11.30 am 12.30 am: History of Arts class in English
12.30 am 1.30 pm: Fine Arts class
1.30 pm 3.30 pm: Applied Arts class
3.30 pm 6 pm: Fine Arts class for teenagers
6 pm 8 pm: Painting on silk and glass
Room 4
9 am 10 am: Russian language course
10 am 11 am: Chinese language course
11 am 12 am: Chess course
12 am 1 pm: Chess course in English

1 pm 3 pm: Logic games

3 pm 4 pm: Greek language course
4 pm 5 pm: French language course
5 pm 6 pm: Spanish language course
6 pm 8 pm: Geography course for 7th grade
Room 5
9 am 10 am: Mathematics for 4-year olds
10 am 12 am: Mathematics for 5- and 6-year olds
12.30 am 2.30 pm: Mathematics for 1st grade
2.30 pm 4.30 pm: Mathematics for 2nd grade
4.30 pm 6 pm: English with Drama
6 pm 8 pm: Creative writing in English
Room 6
8 am 10 am: Mathematics for 10-12th grade
10 am 12 am: Mathematics for 3rd grade
12 am 2 pm: Mathematics for 7th grade
2 pm 4 pm: Mathematics for 4-6th grade
in English
4 pm 6 pm: Physics and Astronomy class
6.30 pm 8 pm: Programming class with Yavor
Nikiforov Yashoo
Room 7
9 am 10 am: Kung Fu To'a for teenagers
10 am 11 am: Kung Fu To'a for children
11 am 12 am: Table tennis
12 am 1 pm: Table tennis
1 pm 2 pm: Aesthetic gymnastics
2 pm 4 pm: Corrective gymnastics
4 pm 6 pm: Sport Dance
6 pm 8 pm: Folklore Dance

127

128

inSide track

sofia hotel balkan,

a luxury collection hotel

Sofia, 5 Sveta Nedelya Sq

phone: 02 981 6541
www.theluxurycollection.com/sofia

When it comes to location, service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the
very heart of the city, but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of the
capital. The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferred
for the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls. This summer Sofia Hotel
Balkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests. Until 15 September they can
enjoy free transfer, free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the Executive
Lounge. And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan.

plaza
hotel

Varna, 10 Slivnitsa Blvd

phone: 052 684 060; fax: 052 684 061
www.hotelplazabg.com
To make the most of Varna, go for the centre and the Plaza Hotel. Right in front
of the Sea Garden, the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such as
luxurious leather furniture, bathtub, air-conditioning, and free Wi-Fi. The helpful
staff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up the
ambience of Varna. The location in the heart of the city is perfect, just steps away from
the beach and with a great range establishments nearby.

" " , - 10 3 , 3 7- ,

.

. " "
,

.

: 0700 11 013
info@patronaj.net
.

ZINE
NGLISH MAGA
BULGARIAS E

5.95 leva
ISSUE 97/2014

SLEYMAN

ISSUE 9 7/20 14

9 771312 859112

ISSN 1312-8590

08

Clar!s,, image builder - Photo Nicolas Claris

Clari

GKE

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