Pattern Grading Basics

42
THREADS
Pattern-Grading
Basics
How to scale from the size you have to the size you need
By Co n n i e C raw f o r d
attern grading can seem mysterious to home sewers, but

it neednt be. Grading is the proportionate increase or
decrease of a pattern from one size to the next. You can
grade patterns up (make them larger) or grade them down (make
them smaller). Whether you wish to grade a single-size or a multisize pattern, you need to understand the principles by which
patterns are graded, as well as the method of hand grading.
Knowing how to grade patterns by hand is an essential skill
for any patternmaker, whether professional or home sewer.
Even professional pattern graders learn this hand-grading
technique before they move on to grading by computer. It isnt
simply a matter of expanding a pattern at its side seams until its
circumference matches the needed measurements. The increase
or decrease must be distributed throughout the pattern to
maintain accurate proportions.
Once youve grasped the basics, youll be able to resize any
pattern by as many sizes as you wish; you can grade consecutive
sizes individually ( from an 8 to a 10 to a 12) or grade by multiples ( from an 8 to a 14 in one step).
Note that grading only changes a patterns sizeit does not
alter the fit to an individual figure. Just as you would for any
other untried pattern, you should sew a muslin of a pattern
youve graded to a new size to check for necessary fit alterations.
Gr ad i n g to o ls
In the industry, hand grading is done using a grading machine
w w w. t h r e a d s m a g a z i n e . c o m
or a grading ruler. A grading ruler is a thin, clear plastic, gridded

template with 1/8-inch increments marked, as well as X and Y
axes and grainline directional markings. These tools guide you
in shifting the pattern in four directions at specific intervals
along X and Y axes, according to the patterns grade (explained
on page 44). At each interval, a section of the pattern is traced,
yielding a larger or smaller size than the original.
A grading ruler (available at FashionPatterns.com) is an inexpensive tool, and easy to learn to use.
C h o os e a l ear n i ng pat ter n
You can grade patterns for any garment style and type, but
its easiest to learn hand grading using a basic bodice pattern.
Grading a pant or a skirt is different from grading a bodice.
Although the circumference of a pant or skirt pattern increases
between the sizes the same amount as for a bodice, the growth
increments are distributed differently.
To learn the hand-grading method in this article, choose any
basic bodice pattern with darts; it may have waist darts or bust
darts, or both. Start with any size pattern you wish; you can
grade it to any size needed.
Author and educator Connie Crawford designs sewing patterns
and teaches around the country. Her Grading Workbook,
Second Edition (Amaden-Crawford LLC, 2013), is available
at FashionPatterns.com.
Au g u st/ S e p te m b er 2 0 1 4
43
Understand the grade

To grade a pattern, you need to know how much you want its circumference and length to increase or decrease, and how to distribute the growth increments throughout the pattern piece.
The circumference grade

The amount of circumference change needed to increase or decrease
a pattern size is known simply as the grade. Size differences in
home-sewing patterns are typically based on a 2-inch grade, which
means that the total difference between each size and the next is 2
inches. A 2-inch grade is what is shown in our examples.
A bodice patterns grade is applied differently to its top and

bottom halves because the shoulder and upper chest areas only
grow half the amount of its midsection area between the sizes.
The top half is referred to as the half grade and the bottom half is
referred to as the full grade.
Breakdown of a 2-inch grade

16
16
16
16
16
Half grade
1
4 inch
16
front
front
16
16
16
16
The Vertical grade
The full grade and the half grade

The full grade is the amount of circumference
increase or decrease from a bodices center front to
side seam below the armscye. Above the armscye,
the circumference amount increases or decreases
half the amount of the full grade.
To find the full grade (the amount that must
be added or subtracted to each seam below
the armscye), divide the grade (2 inches) by the
number of seams in the full garment (four). Two
divided by four equals 12 inch.
To determine the half grade, divide the full grade
amount (12 inch) in half, which equals 14 inch.
Patterns also grow incrementally lengthwise

between sizes to maintain consistency in armscye
and neckline depths and curves. The most typical
vertical grade for a bodice is 516 inch, distributed
throughout the patterns length as shown at left.
Full
grade
1
2 inch
This shows how a patterns growth increments, adding up to the grade, are distributed.
Set up a workspace
Youll need a clear plastic grading ruler, a large piece of plain white paper taped to a flat work surface, a pattern, masking or
painters tape, and a marker or pencil. You can use a full-size pattern or a half-size pattern as shown.
On a large piece of paper, draw a line
2 inches from the lengthwise edge.
Mark it grainline. Draw another line
several inches from the papers righthand edge and perpendicular to the
grainline; mark it cross-grain. Both
lines are referred to as 0 position, and
where they intersect is referred to as
the 0/0 position.
On the pattern, draw a line at or

near the neckline, squared to the
grainline (usually the center-back or
center-front line). Mark a 0/0 position
where the grainline and the cross-grain
meet on the pattern.
44
THREADS
Align the grading

rulers 0/0 position
to the papers 0/0
position. Tape the
ruler to the work
surface along the
edge marked tape
to table, creating
a hinge. Tape the
front and back of the
grading ruler to the
surface. Place the
pattern under the
ruler, and align its
0/0 position to the
papers 0/0 position.
Cross-grain
(0 position)
Grading ruler
Rulers and patterns

0/0 position
Grainline
(0 position)
Tape hinge
Grade a pattern
The 2-inch grade shown illustrates how to move a master pattern
under a grading ruler to increase the pattern at specific locations
(see the facing page). The ruler remains stationary while the pattern moves counterclockwise around the 0/0 position to the different growth intervals. Professionals use the terms up/down and
in/out to indicate the patterns movements around 0/0; we have
used left/right and above/below for clarity. When you flip the
ruler back on its hinge, hold the pattern firmly so it doesnt shift.
Flip back
the ruler.
Mark the
center neck
and a short
section of
the neckline
curve on the
paper.
Mark the centerfront neckline curve.
Directional arrows shown at right and in

the photos indicate pattern movement under
the ruler.
0/0 position
Flip the ruler

back over the
pattern. Move
the pattern 116
inch to the right
of the rulers 0
cross-grain. Also,
move the pattern
1
16 inch above the
rulers 0 grainline.
Flip back the
ruler and mark
the shoulder/
neckline corner.
Flip the
ruler back
over the
pattern. Keep
the pattern
positioned on
1
16 to the right
of the 0 crossgrain. Move
the pattern
1
8 inch above
the rulers 0
grainline. Flip
back the ruler
and mark the
mid-shoulder
area.
Mark the
shoulder/
neckline
corner.
1
16 inch above
grainline
Shift the pattern

1
8 inch above the
grainline and mark
the mid-shoulder.
8 inch above grainline
16 inch right of 0 cross-grain
16 inch right of cross-grain
Keep the pattern 116 to the right of the 0 cross-grain. Move the
pattern 14 inch above the rulers 0 grainline. Flip the ruler back
and mark the shoulder/armhole position.
Shoulder/armhole
Move the
pattern 116
inch to the left
of the rulers
0 cross-grain.
At the same
time, keep the
pattern 14 inch
above the 0
grainline. Flip
the ruler back
and mark the
mid-armscye
area and the
armscye notch.
Mark mid-armscye.
4 inch above
grainline
16 left of
0 cross-grain
continued
45
Mark the underarm/

side seam.
Shift the pattern 18 inch to the left of the 0 crossgrain. Also, move the pattern 12 inch above the 0
grainline. Flip the ruler back and mark the underarm/
side-seam position.
1
2 inch above
grainline
81to
left of
8 inch
out0 cross-grain
from grainline
Move the pattern 14

inch to the left of the
0 cross-grain. At the same
time, keep the pattern
1
2 inch above 0 grainline
position. Flip the ruler back
and mark the waist/sideseam position.
Side seam at the waist
4 inch left of 0 cross-grain
Keep the
pattern 14
inch left of the 0
cross-grain. Shift
it back to 18 inch
above the rulers
0 grainline. Flip
the ruler back and
mark the waist
dart notches. If
your pattern has
shirring, pleats,
or tucks in lieu
of a waist dart,
mark them.
Waist dart
8 inch above
0 grainline
4 inch left of
0 cross-grain
46
THREADS
Photos: Sloan Howard. Illustrations: (p. 42) Bonnie Hofkin 2014; (p. 44) Rosann Berry.
Keep the pattern 14 inch left of the rulers 0 cross-grain position.

At the same time, move the pattern back to the 0 grainline.
Mark the center-front waist position.
Move the pattern back to 18 inch left of the 0

cross-grain. Also, move the pattern 18 inch above
the 0 grainline position. Flip the ruler back and mark
the shoulder dart point and the waist dart point (make
holes through the pattern).
10
1
8 inch left of
0 cross-grain
Mark dart
points.
1
8 inch above
0 grainline
On 0 grainline
Center-front
waist
Flip the ruler away,

and overlay the
original (master) pattern
on the new patterns
unfinished outline. Center
the master between each
of the marked intervals,
and use it to blend the
new patterns edges. At the
armscye, match the notch
and pivot for a smooth
underarm curve.
You can see how the
pattern has expanded
during this process at the
growth intervals in the half
grade and the full grade
(see page 44). Be sure
to grade the remaining
bodice section.
11
4 inch left of
0 cross-grain
Shift the pattern around the graded copy on the paper between the
previously marked intervals and fill in the pattern edges.
Grading Tools
Purchasing a grading machine, such as the Dario Grade-O Meter ($450 to $595), is an expensive proposition. If you intend to
grade patterns frequently, however, it can be worth the cost, and you can find them on eBay or at SouthStarSupply.com. A
grading machine makes moving a pattern between the growth intervals easier. This article teaches you how to use a grading
ruler only (available at FashionPatterns.com), but the technique is essentially the same when using a grading machine.
47

Pattern Grading Basics

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What are the principles of pattern grading?

What are the principles of pattern grading?

What tools can be used for pattern grading?

What tools can be used for pattern grading?

42

attern grading can seem mysterious to home sewers, but

In the industry, hand grading is done using a grading machine

or a grading ruler. A grading ruler is a thin, clear plastic, gridded

Understand the grade

The circumference grade

A bodice patterns grade is applied differently to its top and

Breakdown of a 2-inch grade

The Vertical grade

The full grade and the half grade

Patterns also grow incrementally lengthwise

On the pattern, draw a line at or

Align the grading

Rulers and patterns

Mark the centerfront neckline curve.

Directional arrows shown at right and in

Flip the ruler

Shift the pattern

8 inch above grainline

16 inch right of 0 cross-grain

16 inch right of cross-grain

4 inch above grainline

Mark the underarm/

Move the pattern 14

Side seam at the waist

2 inch above grainline

4 inch left of 0 cross-grain

Keep the pattern 14 inch left of the rulers 0 cross-grain position.

Move the pattern back to 18 inch left of the 0

Flip the ruler away,

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