Consumerism 2
Consumerism 2
Consumerism 2
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what this actually means. Earlier attempts to give the symbolic some
substantive content, as in the speculations of Roland Barthes,1 have
been more or less ditched by the latest ideology of consumerism.
Thus instead of declaring that by eating steak, for example, we are
actually consuming virility (its alleged symbolic value), the latest
ideology of consumerism prefers a more open-ended approach to
what things mean. Indeed, what things mean is no longer a concern.
Rather, the ideology of consumerism emphasises meaning construction as a process involving the individual interacting with
symbolic meanings.
Nevertheless, perhaps because of the association between the
symbolic and the immaterial, unreal, hyperreal, surreal and so on,
theorising consumption as a symbolic process has led, as we shall see,
to some bizarre speculations. While some of the wildest theoretical
excesses have become a part of the latest ideology of consumerism,
whether or not they attract widespread agreement is debatable. My
main concern in this chapter is with that part of the ideology which
appears to be widely supported within Cultural Studies and the
sociology of culture. Nevertheless it will be useful to highlight some
of the more extravagant and celebratory claims of the ideology of
consumerism in order better to define its consensual core.
Consumption as symbolic refers to the notion that consumption
is essentially the consumption of symbolic meanings. However, as I
made clear in the previous chapter, this is not understood as a
passive process but rather as an active one in which the consumer
is involved in a creative (and pleasurable) process of meaning negotiation and construction. Consumption is thus seen as meaningful
and pleasurable, and it is our engagement with the symbolic that
makes it so.
Viewing consumption as primarily symbolic trades on the recognition that the images (meanings) originally produced through
advertising, and circulated through the mass media and the display
of goods in shopping malls and high streets, are not only proliferating, but may (and often do) become detached from their objects
there are more signs or images in circulation than there are objects.
This detachment is normally understood to be a consequence of the
creative symbolic work of consumers themselves. In other words,
goods and services are invested with meaning (their commodified
symbolic value) by producers and advertisers. Consumers may thus
consume goods for this symbolic value, or, may adopt alternative
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confronts people with dream-images which speak to desires, and aestheticize and de-realize reality.5
However, the consensus appears to part company with Featherstone and others in its attempts to link the aestheticisation of
everyday life to actual consumption practices. The aestheticization
of everyday life, Featherstone tells us, can refer to the project of
turning life into a work of art. One example of such a project was
that of dandyism, which amongst other things, manifested the
heroic concern with the achievement of originality and superiority
in dress, demeanour, personal habits and even furnishings what
we now call lifestyle.6
Featherstone provides historical examples of artistic and intellectual counter-cultures, which pursued a dual focus on a life of
aesthetic consumption and the need to form life into an aesthetically pleasing whole. But this dual focus, Featherstone suggests,
should be related to the development of mass consumption in
general and the pursuit of new tastes and sensations and the construction of distinctive lifestyles which has become central to
consumer culture.7 The consensus is happy enough to go along with
this provided that it remains as a comment that is specific to
particular groups. Consumer-based lifestyles as works of art may be
descriptive of the lifestyles pursued by very small groups. When this
observation is generalised and aligned with the notion of the artist
as hero in the context of the growing aestheticisation of everyday
life and consumer-based lifestyles, Featherstone is but a short step
away from celebrating contemporary consumption as heroic and the
consumer as a hero!8 While the consensus does celebrate consumption, to follow Featherstone all the way would be a case of the
celebration going over the top.
The theoretical consensus which forms the core of the latest
ideology of consumerism appears to prefer an understanding of the
symbolic value of consumption that retains an openness and flexibility sufficient seemingly to accommodate whatever meanings and
pleasures the individual consumer can derive or create from
consuming. But, as we shall see shortly, this is far from the case. The
very assumption that consumption is primarily a symbolic activity
does propel theory in a direction that discounts those meanings and
pleasures, for example, practically-based meanings and uncomplicated fun, which may well be of considerable relevance to
consumers. In doing this the ideology of consumerism makes itself
vulnerable to serious criticisms. In exploring some of these criticisms
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analysis of the production and consumption of meat. This is a wellchosen example. Food, after all, is universally considered to be
necessary (absolutely useful) for our survival. The general use value
of food is beyond question, as too is clothing for protection from
the elements. If Sahlins can prove that cultural codes govern the
utility of products that are uncontroversially perceived to be
consumed in order to meet a basic need, then he will have totally
undermined commonsensical explanations of consumption.
Sahlins, in constructing his proof, quite correctly observes that
the popularity of certain meats bears no relation to their nutritional
(use) value.
It is the symbolic logic which organises demand. The social value
of steak or roast, as compared with tripe or tongue, is what
underlies the difference in economic value. From the nutritional
point of view, such a notion of better and inferior cuts would be
difficult to defend. Moreover, steak remains the most expensive
meat even though its absolute supply is much greater than that
of tongue ...11
The consumption of meat, at least in the American context, would
seem to obey the logic of cultural values rather than the logic of
needs. Or, in other words, the use value of meat is shaped by
symbolic values. Now, while we can think of examples in which
actual purchases reflect symbolic values only (the replica football
shirt), and examples in which symbolic values outweigh considerations of utiliy (the purchase of an expensive, luxury sports car), it
would be a mistake to assume that such examples are typical of all
consumption. On closer inspection these examples are the exception
rather than the rule.
Sahlins has demonstrated that use values in the consumption of
meat are culturally coded and that is all that he has demonstrated.
But Sahlins uses the example of meat as typical of the consumption
of food in general, and all consumption. This is unjustified. Then,
having mistakenly arrived at a theory of consumption Sahlins goes
on to draw on uncontroversial examples, such as trousers and skirts,
to support his theory. The initial error of generalising from the
example of meat can be recognised if we ask: what are the cultural
codes governing the consumption of vegetables, fruit, cereals,
sandwiches, etc? While cultural codes appear to have relevance in
the consumption of clothes, for example, one would be hard pressed
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efface the boundary between art and everyday life. Influential here
is the challenge to traditional definitions of art itself, such that art
can be anywhere or anything.17 This means that consumer objects
can be treated as art.
The third sense in which it is argued that everyday life is aestheticised focuses on the rapid flow of signs and images which
saturate the fabric of everyday life.18 These images are those transmitted by advertising (in its broadest sense), and in some cases are
influenced by the techniques of artistic subcultures.
The aestheticisation of everyday life thesis generates an understanding of the pleasurable and meaningful nature of consumption
as somehow rooted in our interaction with aesthetics. On the face of
it this thesis would seem to have some merit and it does complement
trends in Cultural Studies. The thesis does attempt to support the
notion that the aesthetic pleasures facilitated by consumer culture
are meaningful. Important here is the widely recognised, at least in
postmodern theory, collapse of the boundary between serious art
and popular art. Many advertisements, particularly televised advertisements, are regarded as influential in the merging of serious and
popular art forms. On top of this, there has been, at least in Cultural
Studies and some other quarters, a broadening of the definition of
what can legitimately be called art popular or light cultural
products are amenable to the same kind of serious attention once
reserved for serious art. The consequent merging of the serious and
the popular in what is regarded as the aesthetic realm infuses
everyday reality as never before in the escalation of advertising and
in the sites of consumption. Almost all shops attempt to appeal to
consumers through window displays that are aesthetically inviting,
through the display of goods that are pleasing to the eye and
through the playing of music.
Ironically, the aestheticisation of everyday life thesis does retain an
important, powerful role for advertising. But this power is not
construed in terms of manipulating the consumer, but more in terms
of offering enticing images that, in effect, are the aesthetic resources
which we are able to use to inspire or re-route our dreams, fantasies
and desires. It can be noted that there is a strong tendency amongst
advocates of the thesis to prefer to talk of dreams, fantasies and
desires rather than simple enjoyment and fun. The former have a
serious, and thus more meaningful, conceptual history, especially in
their association with serious psychoanalytic theory. And, of course,
they are associated with powerful psychological motives. Our
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and images are signs and images. No amount of theorising about the
artistic techniques involved in the production of images can alter
this fact.
The kind of judgement involved in determining the relative value
of commodities or experiences for meaningful pleasures, aesthetic
or otherwise, is in fact one that is commonly made. The football
purist, for example, will eulogise about the poetry or other aesthetic
delights provided by the Dutch national team of 1974, the Brazilians
of 1982, Liverpool of 1989 and Real Madrid of 2000, and bemoan
the standardised dross of much professional football. For the
spectator (consumer) of this standardised product aesthetic pleasures
are few and far between, perhaps a few isolated moments of eyecatching and pleasing skill.
Second, the example of football illustrates the obvious fact that
aesthetically irrelevant pleasures may be far more common than the
anticipated and experienced pleasures of an aesthetic variety. For the
typical football fan, with aesthetic pleasures more or less ruled out,
and unanticipated, the pleasures of attending a match are more
likely to derive from the experience of the atmosphere generated by
the crowd, from chanting and cheering or having a moan, from
verbally abusing the referee, players, or opposing fans, and most of
all from the teams victory. The aestheticisation of everyday life
thesis says nothing about these kinds of pleasures. It says nothing
about most of the little pleasures that are widely experienced
through consumption the pleasures initially experienced, for
example, in replacing old, inefficient products with more reliable
and efficient ones, or from getting a bargain, or from purchasing a
gift for a loved one, or from just having fun with the kids at a theme
park and so on. Presumably, for the ideology of consumerism, these
kinds of pleasures dont have the same kind of status and power as
grand-sounding aesthetic pleasures.
It ought to be clear that I am not denying that pleasures can be
experienced from consumption. I am, however, questioning the
ideology of consumerisms tendency to theorise the pleasures of consumption as essentially aesthetically-based. This may hold true for
specific forms of consumption for a small minority of consumers.
And, when this is true, it is most unlikely to take a form that corresponds to the aestheticisation of everyday life thesis. This brings me
to my third point. The aestheticisation of everyday life thesis is not
particularly sensitive to the fact that the packaging and presentation
of commodities, the glitz of shopping malls and advertisements,
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